Ireland: Literary Spots, Punk Rock, and More

January 6, 2008
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A woman from Louisiana is taking her niece to Ireland in search of James Joyce's Dublin, Frank McCourt's Limerick, Irish-speaking areas, and a good punk rock show.

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Dear Trip Coach...
When I told my niece Brittani that I'd take her anywhere for her 21st birthday, she chose Ireland. She's a big reader, so we'll definitely be checking out James Joyce's Dublin and Frank McCourt's Limerick. I'd also like to allow some time for unplanned adventures and mingling with locals. Catherine Credeur, Shreveport, La.

ASK AWAY
"There's so much to see: Limerick, Dublin, Belfast, Cork, Blarney Castle, Galway's Gaeltacht [Irish-speaking region], and County Kerry. Can you help us prioritize?" Covering all this in a week would zap any chance of downtime. Cork is cool, but since you're going to the bigger cities of Dublin and Belfast, save it for another trip. That means missing Blarney Castle, but you'll be able to see other castles (with fewer crowds). Visiting the Gaeltacht and Kerry could feel redundant. Do the Gaeltacht this time, Kerry another.

"We'll be renting a car for the trip. How can we figure out driving times?" AA Ireland is a valuable resource for planning a road trip (aaireland.ie).

"Will we have trouble booking our lodgings while we're in Ireland?" Finding last-minute accommodations is only really tricky during summer. If you want to stay in B&Bs--which are definitely the way to go in Ireland--you should consider the voucher system from Dooley Vacations. You buy vouchers for however many nights you need, the company sends you a guide with listings for more than 1,500 B&Bs, and you book directly with the owners (877/331-9301, dooleyvacations.com, vouchers from $100 per night).

"Of all the James Joyce-related activities in Dublin, which are the most worthwhile?" There are two attractions every Joyce fan should visit. The James Joyce Centre, a few steps from where he went to school north of the city center, has exhibitions, a library, and lectures (35 N. Great George's St., 011-353/1-878-8547, jamesjoyce.ie, $7.25). For atmosphere, however, you can't beat The James Joyce Museum in Sandycove, eight miles southeast of Dublin. The museum is in a 19th-century tower that serves as the setting for the opening chapter of Ulysses (011-353/1-280-9265, for directions search for "joyce museum" at visitdublin.com, $10.50). To get a feel for Joyce's Dublin, take one of the walking tours led by The James Joyce Centre ($14.50), or pick up The Ulysses Guide: Tours Through Joyce's Dublin by Robert Nicholson. It's a fun little book that re-creates some of the walks that Joyce's characters took around the city.

"Brittani is intrigued by the Limerick that Frank McCourt described in Angela's Ashes, but I've heard the city doesn't offer much for tourists." Although Limerick has improved a great deal since McCourt's self-described "miserable childhood," it's still one of Ireland's poorest and most blighted cities and doesn't hold much appeal for the average visitor. McCourt fans, however, will enjoy the Angela's Ashes Walking Tour (St. Mary's Action Centre, 44 Nicholas St., 011-353/6-131-8106, $14.50).

"I'd love to see the Blasket Islands. Are they accessible year-round?" The nearly uninhabited Blasket Islands are one of Ireland's most striking sights, but ferries only run April to October and even then can be canceled if the waters are rough. You'd probably be better off going to the Irish-speaking Aran Islands, or Oileáin Árainn. Located off Galway, they're a great option in the off-season. Inis Mór is the most populated and most commercialized island, but it has one of the more spectacular prehistoric forts in Europe--Dún Aengus, on the edge of a 300-foot-tall cliff. The other two islands, Inis Meáin and Inis Oírr, have fewer than 350 people each and give a more authentic sense of island life. Both can easily be covered on foot in a few hours. The views (of the Connemara coast, the Burren, and the Cliffs of Moher) are among the best in Europe. Irish is the main language, but most locals are fluent in English.

"Where will Brittani and I find the best opportunities to mingle with the locals?" Cliché or not, the pub is still the center of Irish social life. The most authentic pubs have no music unless it's live and a fantastic pint of Guinness that takes the bartender at least two minutes to pour. You'll have no problem finding pubs full of Irish characters as you travel throughout the country's smaller towns. In Dublin, Grogan's (15 S. William St., 011-353/1-677-9320) and The Stag's Head (1 Dame Ct., 011-353/1-679-3687) are classics. The Temple Bar Pub, in the heart of Dublin's Temple Bar quarter, is touristy but consistently lively (47/48 Temple Bar, 011-353/1-672-5286).

"We're from the South, where religion is one of the first things you talk about when you meet someone. Is it OK to broach the subject?" In the Republic of Ireland, where about 87 percent of the population is Catholic, it's unusual to talk religion on a personal level. A good pub conversation might touch on religion, but only in a general sense. In Northern Ireland, the Catholic-Protestant divide played a significant role in the Troubles. It's best to stick to less sensitive subjects there.

"Brittani's been getting into punk music and would love to see a show in Dublin." Most of the up-and-coming groups are booked by Aiken Promotions (aikenpromotions.com) and MCD Productions (mcd.ie); their websites list upcoming shows. The Village (thevillagevenue.com), POD (pod.ie), and The Button Factory (buttonfactory.ie) host bands regularly. Just like in the States, college campuses are great places to catch a gig. The Trinity College Dublin Students' Union website has a calendar of events (tcdents.com).

"Brittani's grandmother gave me $200 toward a special birthday splurge. Any suggestions?" A play at Dublin's Abbey Theatre will appeal to a literary buff like Brittani (011-353/1-878-7222, abbeytheatre.ie, from $20). Treat her to a pretheater dinner at Chapter One (18/19 Parnell Square, 011-353/1-873-2266, $51 for three courses), and go for a nightcap in the elegant Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne hotel (27 St. Stephen's Green, 011-353/1-663-4500).

Unasked-for Advice
Belfast's Black Taxi Tours pass sites linked to the city's tumultuous past. The driver-guides give commentary along the way (belfasttours.com, $52 for up to three passengers).

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20 Tips

What's your best travel tip? Send us your tips, and if we publish one, you'll get a one-year subscription (or a renewal) to Budget Travel. You can e-mail them to us at Tips@BudgetTravel.com. Best Tips Ever The cleverest tips we've ever run are in The Smart Traveler's Passport, available at Amazon.com and better bookstores. Send us a tip: If yours is one that we illustrate, we'll send you a free book (along with a year's subscription). 1. Weigh your options After spending two weeks in Alaska--one week on land and one on a cruise--my husband and I had collected more souvenirs than we'd anticipated. Worried about overweight-luggage fees at the airport, we hauled our suitcases to the cruise ship's gym and weighed them on one of the scales. We kept rearranging the contents until each bag weighed less than 50 pounds (but barely!). Nancy Boehmer, Bridgeton, Mo. 2. Save some summer When I store my summer wardrobe at the end of the season, I always put a week's worth of warm-weather clothes in my suitcase. That way, I don't have to dig through the storage bins months later when I'm packing for a winter getaway to a balmy locale. Lorraine Seymour, Belchertown, Mass. 3. Do the math Google has a feature for some U.S. cities that performs an analysis to show whether it would cost less to drive to a destination or to take public transportation (google.com/transit). Keri Sprenger, Camas, Wash. 4. Sting operation My husband got stung by a bee while we were vacationing in Germany, and a local suggested putting toothpaste on the spot. It worked! The sting didn't swell, burn, or itch. Marie Braatz, Thorp, Wis. 5. Where talk is cheaper I've found an inexpensive way to phone the States from Europe: Many Internet cafés have call centers with phones you can use to make overseas calls, and there are a few that charge only 3¢ to 4¢ per minute. Linda Brunett, Rockville, Md. 6. Cheat sheet If you receive travel info from a college alumni association, keep it--even if you don't plan to join the trip. The literature usually includes details on the destinations, such as hotels and interesting excursions. You can use it as a guide when you plan your own trip later. Chris Barker, Kingsport, Tenn. 7. On the metro beat When I'm planning to visit a city that has a subway, I like to review a subway map in advance to familiarize myself with the system. Amadeus.net makes this easy. Click on Trip Tools for access to subway maps from virtually every city that has one. Alan Brill, Staten Island, N.Y. 8. Slippery business If you're traveling for business, bring several FedEx or DHL slips with your company's preprinted account number on them. If you end up with work-related items that are too heavy or cumbersome to fly with, you can mail them back to your office before you leave. Cindy Lin, New York, N.Y. 9. Earn extra credit Before you book a cruise, find out if the cruise line offers benefits for signing up for its credit card. For example, Carnival offers a card that lets you earn points that can be put toward cruises, resort stays, and air travel. Paula Prindle, Orient, Ohio 10. Get down In elevators, the international symbol for street level is the star or asterisk. Patricia A. Steinkuehler, Boynton Beach, Fla. 11. Collective memory I recently discovered journals from a 1927 trip my family took to Europe and Palestine. There were entries from three generations--it was fascinating to read each person's account. I now try to encourage every member of a group trip to contribute to a journal. Joan White, Dallas, Tex. 12. Rise and dine Hotels in many foreign countries serve only tea, coffee, and maybe a little bread for breakfast--and some don't serve anything at all. I like to have a more substantial breakfast than that, so I always bring packets of instant oatmeal. They're lightweight, they hardly take up any room, and with just a little hot water added in, they make a quick, easy breakfast. Christine Smith, Louisville, Ky. 13. Crash course If you choose not to purchase the car rental company's collision insurance and rely instead on the insurance that's provided by your credit card, you should make sure you have a backup card available. In the unhappy event that you crash the car, the rental company can charge your credit card for the damages--and if they're extensive, you could find yourself with a maxed-out credit card and no source of funds. George H. Giffen, York, Pa. 14. On the high C's Bring a few packets of Emergen-C powder with you on trips. Anytime you feel run-down from all the nonstop fun, mix a packet into a glass of water and drink up. The vitamin C keeps you healthy, and the other vitamins and minerals keep your energy from flagging. Andra Williams, South Amherst, Ohio 15. Homeward bound When you print driving directions from a website such as MapQuest, always print return directions, too. On our last trip, we assumed we could just reverse the directions for the ride home and found ourselves trying to go the wrong way on a one-way street. It took many extra (and aggravating) miles to make our way back. Diane Cavallaro, Westbury, N.Y. 16. She's crafty I had to give up my embroidery scissors when I went through security in the Toronto airport. Since then, I've found a way to cut yarn or thread while on an airplane: I use the metal cutter on a dental-floss container. Naomi Bryant, Penney Farms, Fla. 17. Out of your hair Slip a scrunchie or ponytail holder through the handle of your suitcase and pull one end through the other. The resulting loop is handy for holding an extra jacket or sweater, leaving your hands free as you make your way around the airport. Leonore Bourgeault, Belmar, N.J. 18. Books from abroad When researching a trip to another country, I visit the online booksellers native to the destination. Amazon.co.uk, for instance, carries a better selection of local-interest books for English towns and counties than Amazon.com does. And just like the American version, the site will deliver the books right to your doorstep. (Keep in mind that you'll have to pay international shipping costs.) Craig Comer, Woodland Hills, Calif. 19. The driving factor If you live a long way from the airport, it's often less expensive to rent a car near your home and drop it off at the airport (and vice versa) than to take a car or shuttle service. I've found this to be true when flying out of Reagan National and Dulles International airports in Virginia. Robert M. Pollock, Arnold, Md. 20. For the masses Check out masstimes.org if you want to attend a Catholic Mass while you're on vacation. The site has hundreds of listings for churches and Mass times all over the world. Some entries even include info on confession, adoration, and devotion times. Julie Gheen, Dearborn, Mich.