Table of Contents: September 2009

August 10, 2009
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The Good Fork
On a narrow strip of land at the tip of New York's Long Island, tiny wineries are working to rival their famous peers around the globe—and stay mellow in the process.
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The Budget Travel Challenge: Last-Minute Long-Haul
For our latest Budget Travel Challenge, we pitted two travelers against each other in a competition to have the most far-flung adventures possible on seven days' notice—for $1,200.

World's Best Flea Markets
Sure, you can learn a lot about a destination by touring its museums and visiting its landmarks. But to experience the true heart of a place, spend a few hours at one of its flea markets. We picked the world's top 25.
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Hobnob With the Masters for $1.50
Europe has long been the world's art capital. Now it's outdone itself.

Welcome to Shoulder Season
The tourist hordes have left (or haven't yet arrived), prices have dropped, and the weather's just delightful. Here's your worldwide guide to that overlooked moment between the high and low seasons.

Road Trip: True West in Wyoming
With some of America's most majestic landscapes and wildlife, Wyoming stays faithful to its Old West heritage.
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Real Deals
Over $4,900 in savings—exclusively for you!

Plan Your Next Getaway
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Real Deals: September 2009

It pays to be a Budget Travel reader! This month, our exclusive deals net you more than $4,900 in discounts and bonuses. Among the freebies: a volcano tour in Costa Rica, a hot-air balloon ride in Turkey, and an ocean-view cabin upgrade on a Mediterranean cruise. For more savings, search the 175-plus Real Deals at BudgetTravel.com—the star means you've found a package just for BT readers! How was your trip? Have you taken a Real Deals vacation? E-mail us how it went at RealDeals@BudgetTravel.com. Before you book... These trips and starting prices ("From") sell out quickly, and details may change. Call the companies for complete info. Most rates are based on midweek dates; weekend travel can raise the price. Under "Why it's a deal," round-trip flights are based on the lowest September departures on kayak.com at press time. Usually not included: service, security, and visa costs; hotel, car-rental, and airport taxes. Check each listing for fuel surcharge details. Prices are per person, with two people sharing a room, unless otherwise noted. The single supplement ("SS") is the extra fee charged to solo travelers. UNITED STATES Denver, from $199 Two rooms at the Curtis hotel for one night, four tickets to the Museum of Contemporary Art Denver, one $50 food-and-beverage credit, and parking. The price is for two adults and two kids. Book by Oct. 30 and mention PROCCC. Why it's a deal: You receive the second room at no extra cost. When: Sept. 1–Nov. 30. Contact: The Curtis, 800/525-6651, thecurtis.com. Gurnee, Ill., from $269 Two nights at the KeyLime Cove resort, about an hour from Chicago; breakfasts; and passes to the resort's indoor Lost Paradise Waterpark. The price is for two adults and two kids. Mention BT09. Why it's a deal: The required two-night stay typically starts at $398, so this package saves you at least $129. You also receive the breakfasts (an $80 value) at no extra cost. When: Sept. 8–Nov. 25. Contact: KeyLime Cove, 224/656-8685, keylimecove.com. Houston, from $358 Two nights at the Crowne Plaza Downtown, breakfasts, parking, and four CityPasses valid at Space Center Houston, Downtown Aquarium, and other attractions. The price is for two adults and two kids. Mention BUDGET TRAVEL. Why it's a deal: Booking each component separately costs at least $145 more. You also receive a free room upgrade worth about $40. When: Sept. 1–Nov. 30. Contact: Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau, 800/446-8786, visithoustontexas.com/budgettravel. San Francisco, from $441 Air from L.A., four nights at the Westin St. Francis in Union Square, and a one-hour narrated cable-car tour. Includes fuel surcharges. Why it's a deal: You receive the cable-car tour (a $20 value) at no extra cost. When: Sept. 1–Nov. 30. Other gateways: Chicago ($579); Atlanta, Houston, Miami, New York ($659). SS: $369. Contact: Travel Themes and Dreams, 877/870-7447, travelthemesanddreams.com. South Lake Tahoe, Calif., from $176 One night at Zephyr Cove Resort, breakfast, and an Emerald Bay cruise aboard the Dixie II. The price is per room. Mention BUDTRV. Why it's a deal: This rate is 24 percent less than the regular package price. When: Sept. 22–Nov. 26; Nov. 29–Dec. 21.Contact: Zephyr Cove Resort, 888/896-3830, zephyrcove.com/budgettravel. CANADA Nova Scotia, from $1,197 Air Canada flights from New York to Halifax, a seven-day car rental, six nights' hotel, a city tour, and entry to the Alexander Graham Bell Museum. Spend two nights each in Halifax and Baddeck, and one each in Sydney and Antigonish. Add from $35 for fuel surcharges. Why it's a deal: This price is about 10 percent less than the regular package rate. When: Sept. 1–Nov. 30. Other gateways: Atlanta ($1,355), Boston ($1,416), Chicago ($1,442), L.A. ($1,477), Miami ($1,652). SS: $524. Contact: Maxxim Vacations, 800/567-6666, maxximvacations.com. CARIBBEAN Jamaica, from $519 Air from Fort Lauderdale or New York to Montego Bay, transfers, and three nights at the all-inclusive beachfront Holiday Inn SunSpree Resort. Includes fuel surcharges. Why it's a deal: Booking each component separately would cost at least $42 more. You also receive a free room upgrade worth $30. When: Sept. 1–30 ($519); Oct. 1–Nov. 30 ($594). Other gateways: Baltimore (add from $75).Contact: Travel Themes and Dreams, 877/870-7447, travelthemesanddreams.com. Puerto Rico, from $610 Four nights at the Wyndham Rio Mar Beach Resort & Spa, a $100 credit, and one day's rental of a poolside cabana. Add $150 for transfers. Airfare isn't included. Mention BTMAG. Why it's a deal: This price is 25 percent less than the usual rate for the required four-night stay. The cabana rental (a $150 value) and a room upgrade are free. When: Sept. 1–Nov. 4. Contact:Wyndham Rio Mar, 877/636-0636, wyndhamriomar.com. CENTRAL AMERICA Costa Rica, from $879 American Airlines flights from L.A. to San José, an eight-day car rental, seven nights' hotel (two nights in Arenal at Arenal Volcano Inn with breakfasts, two in Monteverde at Hotel Fonda Vela, and three in Manuel Antonio at La Mansion Inn with breakfasts), and a half-day Arenal volcano tour. Includes fuel surcharges. Mention BT75. Why it's a deal: Booking each component separately would cost at least $196 more. You receive the volcano tour at no extra cost. When: Sept. 1–Nov. 15. Other gateways: San Francisco ($914), New York ($919), Chicago ($929). SS: $493.Contact: Capricorn Leisure Corp., 800/426-6544, capricornleisure.com. SOUTH AMERICA Buenos Aires, from $1,253 American Airlines flights from New York, transfers, six nights at the Claridge Hotel, breakfast daily, fuel surcharges, and a half-day city tour. Mention BT75. Why it's a deal: Booking each component separately would cost at least $75 more. When: Sept. 1–Nov. 15. Other gateways: L.A. ($1,298), Seattle ($1,328), D.C. ($1,358), San Francisco ($1,469). SS: $640.Contact: Capricorn Leisure Corp., 800/426-6544, capricornleisure.com. Cartagena & Bogotá, Colombia, from $699 Avianca airlines flights from Miami to Cartagena (returning from Bogotá), transfers and local transportation (boat, car, plane), six nights' hotel (four in Cartagena, two in Bogotá), tours of each city, and a full-day boat tour of the Rosario Islands with lunch. Includes fuel surcharges. Why it's a deal: Booking the airfare and hotel separately costs at least $125 more. This package already includes two city tours; you also receive the Rosario Islands tour (a $45 value) at no extra cost. When: Until Nov. 30. Other gateways: D.C. (add $135), New York (add $200), L.A. (add $265). SS: $285. Contact: Escapes Unlimited, 800/243-7227, escapesltd.com. EUROPE Berlin, from $1,030 Air from Chicago or New York, five nights in one of 10 apartments in the Mitte area, a Berlin Wall walking tour, fuel surcharges, and more. Book by Sept. 30 and mention BUDGET. Why it's a deal: Airfare typically starts at $539. For $491 more, your lodging and the extras are covered. When: Sept. 1–Nov. 30. Other gateways: Miami (add $10), Boston (add $20), L.A. (add $25). SS: $300. Contact: Nonstop Travel, 800/949-6362, nonstoptravel.net. Bologna, Italy, from $1,459 Alitalia flights from New York, five nights at Hotel Orologio, breakfasts, a cooking class with lunch at La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese, a dinner at Ristorante da Cesari, guided walking and bus tours, daily bike rentals, and fuel surcharges. Why it's a deal: Booking the airfare and hotel separately costs at least $1,283. For $176 more, the cooking class, lunch, dinner, and tours are covered. You also receive free bike rentals (a $105 value). When: Sept. 1–Oct. 31 (from $1,629); Nov. 1–Mar. 31 (from $1,459). Other gateways: Boston (add from $20); Chicago, Miami (add from $75). SS: $333. Contact:TourCrafters, 800/482-5995, tourcrafters.com. Cappadocia & Istanbul, Turkey, from $1,499 Turkish Airlines flights from New York to Kayseri (via Istanbul), transfers and local transportation (plane), six nights' hotel split between Cappadocia and Istanbul, breakfasts, two private tours, and a hot-air balloon flight in Cappadocia. Add from $333 for airport taxes and fuel surcharges. Why it's a deal: Booking the components separately costs at least $481 more. When: Wednesday and Friday departures Sept. 2–Nov. 27. Other gateways: Chicago (add $120), Miami (add $160). SS: $350. Contact: Troy Tours, 800/748-6878, troytours.com. Dublin, from $940 Delta Air Lines flights from New York, six nights at the Hilton Dublin Kilmainham, breakfasts, fuel surcharges, and a guided bus tour to Malahide Castle and Howth village. Mention BT10589. Why it's a deal: You receive the tour (a $52 value) free. When: Tuesday departures Sept. 15–Nov. 17. Other gateways: Memphis (from $1,137), Detroit (from $1,209), Minneapolis (from $1,221), Atlanta (from $1,279). SS: $482. Contact: Delta Vacations, 800/654-6559, deltavacations.com. Mediterranean Cruise & Rome, from $1,799 Air from New York, a seven-night sail aboard MSC Cruises' Splendida in an ocean-view cabin, and three nights at the Hotel Milton in Rome. Cruise highlights include stops in Savona, Italy; Marseille, France; Barcelona, Spain; Tunis, Tunisia; Valletta, Malta; and Messina, Italy. The price includes 23 meals, transfers and local transportation within Italy, and fuel surcharges. Add from $42 for port charges. Mention BTMAG283. Why it's a deal: You get the ocean-view cabin upgrade (a $200 value) at no extra cost. When: Sept. 24 ($2,999); Oct. 15 ($2,599); Nov. 5 ($1,799). Other gateways: None. SS: From $1,099. Contact: Foreign Independent Tours, 800/248-3487, fittours.com/budgettravel. Rhine River Cruise, from $1,487 An eight-day sail on the Rhine River from Zürich to Amsterdam (or Amsterdam to Basel) on the Avalon Affinity or Avalon Creativity with transfers, all meals and drinks (with beer and wine at dinner), and port and fuel surcharges. Stops include Strasbourg, France, and a Heidelberg Castle excursion. Airfare isn't covered. Book by Oct. 15 and mention RHINE. Why it's a deal: This price is $500 less than the regular rate. When: Saturday departures Sept. 5–26 (from $1,987); Oct. 3–31 (from $1,587); Nov. 7 (from $1,487). SS: From $418. Contact: Avalon Waterways, 877/380-1535, avalonwaterways.com. Stockholm & St. Petersburg, from $1,999 Air from New York to Stockholm (returning from St. Petersburg), transfers and local transpor­tation (plane), eight nights' hotel (three in Stockholm and five in St. Petersburg), a three-day Stockholm Card valid for admission to Drottningholm Palace, the Vasa Museum, and other attractions, and a folk show and a private city tour in St. Petersburg. The price includes fuel surcharges. Mention BUDTRVL. Why it's a deal: Booking the airfare and hotels alone would cost at least $17 more. You also receive the Stockholm Card (a $76 value) at no extra cost. When: Sept. 1–Dec. 15. Contact: East West Tours, 800/776-3341, east-west-tours.com. AFRICA Kenya Safari, from $2,495 Air from New York to Nairobi and a 10-day escorted round-trip itinerary with transfers and local transportation, seven nights' lodging, 20 meals, and nine game drives. Spend three nights in Masai Mara National Reserve at Mara Simba Lodge, two near Samburu National Reserve at Ashnil Samburu Camp, and one each in Nairobi at the Jacaranda Hotel and in Lake Nakuru National Park at Lake Nakuru Lodge. Includes airport taxes and fuel surcharges. Why it's a deal: This price is about $500 less than the regular package rate. You also receive upgraded lodgings and a lunch at the Carnivore restaurant in Nairobi—a total value of $150. When: Sept. 1–Oct. 31 ($2,595); Nov. 1–30 ($2,495); Dec. 1–31 ($2,795). Other gateways: Boston, D.C. (add $100); Chicago (add $150); L.A. (add $250). SS: From $390. Contact: Masai Travel, 800/587-1644, masaitravel.com. South Africa Tour, from $2,874 South African Airways flights from New York to Johannesburg and a 10-day escorted tour with transfers and local transportation, seven nights' lodging (two each in Malalane, Mozambique, and St. Lucia, and one in Swaziland), a full-day game drive in Kruger National Park, 10 meals, airport taxes, and fuel surcharges. Why it's a deal: This price is 10 percent less than the regular package rate. When: Sept. 5, 19, Oct. 3, 17, 31 ($2,874); Nov. 14, 28 ($2,906). Other gateways: Atlanta (add from $200), L.A. (add from $300). SS: $181. Contact: Karell Holidays, 800/327-0373, karellholidays.com. ASIA Hong Kong, from $999 Cathay Pacific Airways flights from L.A. or San Francisco, transfers, five nights at the Courtyard by Marriott in the Sai Ying Pun area, a Hong Kong Island tour, and fuel surcharges. Book by Oct. 15 and mention TSBT0909. Why it's a deal: Booking the airfare and hotel separately costs at least $147 more. You also get the free island tour (worth $50). When: Until Sept. 13 ($999); Sept. 28–Oct. 11, Nov. 1–Feb. 28 ($1,065). Other gateways: None. SS: From $229. Contact: Travelscene, 866/914-4457, travelscene.com. Korea & Bali, from $1,599 Singapore Airlines flights from L.A. or San Francisco to Seoul (returning from Bali), transfers and local transportation (car, plane), eight nights' lodging (three in Seoul at the Hyundai Residence Hotel and five in Bali at the Kind Villa Bintang Resort or the Kuta Beach Club Hotel & Spa), breakfasts, and fuel surcharges. The price includes a Seoul city tour and a two-hour massage at Anika spa in Bali. Mention SAYBT08. Why it's a deal: Multicity airfare alone can cost $1,486. For $113 more, your hotels, breakfasts, local transport, and city tour are covered. You receive the massage (a $55 value) for free. When: Sept. 1–Nov. 30. Other gateways: Denver (add $200), Chicago (add $350), New York (add $375). SS: $375. Contact: Sayang Holidays, 888/472-9264, sayangholidays.com. Northern Thailand Tour, from $2,099 Air from L.A. or San Francisco to Bangkok and an eight-day escorted tour with transfers and local transportation, seven nights' hotel (two each in Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai, and Bangkok, and one in Phitsanulok), an elephant ride, and fuel surcharges. Why it's a deal: You get two nights in Bangkok and a city tour free. When: Until Nov. 30. Other gateways: Many. SS: $400. Contact: Escapes Unlimited, 800/243-7227, escapesltd.com. SOUTH PACIFIC Fiji, from $1,349 Air Pacific flights from L.A. to Nandi on Viti Levu, transfers, six nights in a beachfront room at the Sonaisali Island Resort, and all meals. Add from $297 for fuel surcharges. Why it's a deal: This price is $535 less than the regular package rate. You also receive a free room upgrade. When: Until Mar. 31. Other gateways: None. SS: $508. Contact: Sunspots International, 800/334-5623, sunspotsintl.com.

It's Time for a Proper Vacation

Someone recently told me that "vacations" are over and that Americans now take "getaways"—as if vacationing requires a three-week sojourn and we're all too wrapped up in work and worries to bother. Well, if a weeklong trip to California with my husband and daughter taught me anything, it's this: Vacations are genius, pure and simple, no matter how long they last. (And for the love of God, "staycations" don't qualify.) We started and ended our trip in San Francisco, where I grew up, and decamped to Napa for a couple of days of wine tasting, hiking, decompressing, and introducing our 7-month-old to the sublime pleasure of splashing around in a pool on a sunny day. And when I got back, I felt like a better version of myself—the surest sign of a good trip. I sometimes feel like an evangelist for travel (a host of Good Morning America wrapped up a segment I appeared on in May by saying, "Nina, you don't have to convince me to get out there!"). I won't get into all the reasons holding us back (not just work but money, time, missing The Real Housewives Reunion Special). The fact is, it's actually easier, cheaper, and more urgent than ever to do yourself a favor and buy a ticket to somewhere fabulous. Europe's totally on sale; there are enchanting discoveries right in your backyard, like on the North Fork of Long Island; and the same economic conditions that can make the prospect of taking a big trip feel daunting are also creating new opportunities to do exactly that. In our second edition of the Budget Travel Challenge, we explore the trend of last-minute bargains on long-haul flights. A writer taking the Challenge scored a ticket to Tokyo for $333. Tokyo! $333! Those are just a few of the ideas we have for you in this issue of crazy, accessible, totally doable vacations—or whatever you want to call them.

Global Flea Finder

ATHENS Monastiraki Market No Sunday in Athens is complete without a stroll through the narrow passageways of Monastiraki, where you can dig through piles of old coins and hand-painted icons—all with the Acropolis in view. Where: At the intersection of the streets Odos Pandrosou and Odos Ifaistou When: Sundays BEIJING Panjiayuan Market The doors open at 4:30 a.m. at the chaotic weekend version of this daily bazaar, with more than 3,000 stalls displaying jade jewelry, ceramic teapots, and Mao posters. Where: Just off South Third Ring Road East, to the east of Longtan Park When: Daily BERLIN Flohmarkt am Arkonaplatz The stately canvas-and-wood stalls lining this square each Sunday house an assortment of melamine tableware, textiles with geometric patterns, and glazed mid-century stoneware. Where: Arkonaplatz, between Wolliner Strasse and Ruppiner Strasse When: Sundays BRUSSELS Sablon Antiques Market Prices don't skew cheap on the well-preserved lacework, crystal, and hotel silver in this quaint, orderly weekend market, but great quality is the payoff. Where: Place du Grand Sablon (a.k.a. Grote Zavel), which is both a plaza and a stretch of cobblestoned road located between two streets Rue des Minimes (a.k.a. Rue Lebeau) and Rue de la Régence. When: Saturdays and Sundays BUENOS AIRES San Telmo Market Many of the embroidered textiles, estate jewelry, and chandeliers at this Sunday market in the city's tango district were brought over by the waves of Italians who immigrated to Argentina in the past 150 years. Where: Plaza Dorrego, located along the stretch of Calle Defensa between Avenida Independencia and Avenida San Juan When: Sundays BUSTEHRAD, CZECH REPUBLIC Collector's Market An insiders' secret even among Europeans, this informal twice-monthly market—sellers often showcase goods in the trunks of their cars—is a standout source for Eastern European artifacts like perestroika-era memorabilia. Where: Lidicka between Revolucni and 61; take the green metro line to Dejvicka and then the buses numbered 220010 or 220012 (15–20 minute ride) When: Twice each month CAIRO Khan el-Khalili Since the late 1300s, these dusty stone corridors have hosted an array of merchants with finely honed specialties: copperware, gold jew­elry, and carpets, in particular. Now, new pieces mix in with antiques. Where: Across from Al-Azhar mosque, bordered on the south by al-Azhar tareeq (street) and on the west by the Muski Market When: Daily CAPE TOWN Church Street Antiques Market This daily (except Sundays) market sells a wealth of small items like porcelain jewelry boxes, old postcards, and sailing maps. Where: On Church Street, running from Lansdowne Road to Wetton Road, in the City Centre When: Daily, except Sundays COPENHAGEN Bella Center Loppemarked Surprisingly affordable mid-century modern furniture and decor from the likes of Aalto, Wegner, and Saarinen fills this convention center's halls every March and August. Where: Center Boulevard 5 When: Every March and August LILLE, FRANCE La Grande Braderie de Lille Legend has it that this September event was once a forum in the Middle Ages for the servant class to sell objects cast off by their employers; today, residents crowd the streets from a Saturday afternoon until midnight Sunday to unload their own Breton crocheted linens and cer­amic mustard pots. Where: Citywide; parking and public transport info on the sponsoring website of this annual event When: One weekend each September LISBON Feira da Ladra Known as the "Thieves' Market," it dates back to the 12th century, when stolen goods made up the bulk of the stock; today's (legit) merchandise, set out Tuesdays and Saturdays, includes old cameras, stamp collections, leather-bound books, and transistor radios. Where: Campo de Santa Clara, a well known square in the Alfama district When: Tuesdays and Saturdays LONDON Portobello Road Market The more than 1,000 dealers snaking up Notting Hill's main thoroughfare every Saturday are (unofficially) divided by theme: Upper end for furniture and household wares and the lower for clothing and jewelry. Where: Between Golbourne Road and Chepstow Villas, on Portobello Road When: Sundays MEXICO CITY La Lagunilla Cuban antiques and centuries-old religious relics can be snapped up for practically nothing at this 500-year-old Sunday market that is, inexplicably, still under the radar for most out-of-towners. Where: 3 blocks east of Plaza de Garibaldi, at Calle Libertad, between Calle de la República de Chile (or Calle Comonfort) and Calle Allende. Take the metro (green line) to the Garibaldi/Lagunilla stop—Its icon is a guitar and jorongo (Mexican shawl). When: Sundays MILAN Naviglio Grande Antiques Market On the last Sunday of each month but July, sellers line this mile-long canal-side stretch with pristine vintage clothing and accessories, from designer bags to leather gloves. Where: Alzaia Naviglio Grande by the Porta Genova subway stop; dates and locations listed at the association's website When: The last Sunday of every month but July MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY Tristán Narvaja Beneath the chaos of this Sunday event (think caged tarantulas and blaring music) lies order: Each corridor has a distinct specialty, like records, used books, or leather goods—three of the market's strengths. Where: Between Avenida 18 de Julio and Calle Tristán Narvaja When: Sundays MOSCOW Izmailovsky Market The hokey onion-domed façades on this suburban weekend market belie the genuine treasures you'll find here. Look for nesting matryoshka dolls, Soviet military regalia, and handmade Central Asian suzanis and rugs. Where: In Izmaylovsky Park. Take the metro to Partizanskaya station When: Saturdays and Sundays NOTTINGHAMSHIRE, ENGLAND Newark International Antiques and Collectors Fair At the European equivalent of Brimfield, nearly 4,000 dealers gather six times a year on 84 acres in the British countryside, selling Victorian- and Edwardian-era items like parlor lamps and onyx jewelry. Where: Lincoln Road in Winthorpe, a village in the Newark and Sherwood district of in the county of Nottinghamshire When: Six times a year; check the fair website for date PARIS Porte de Vanves Less touristy and much more affordable than the famous Clignancourt market, this weekend affair is stocked with choice tabletop pieces (like Pernod carafes and bistro ashtrays) worth digging for. Where: Between Avenue Georges-Lafenestre and Avenue Marc-Sangnier, 14th arrondissement by the Porte de Vanves subway stop When: Saturdays and Sundays SÃO PAULO Praça Benedito Calixto Founded in 1987 by artists looking to sell their work, the Saturday Praça Benedito Calixto market has evolved to comprise an even split of the new and the old; delicately fashioned porcelain dishware sits next to piles of retired metal store signs. Where: On Praça Benedito Calixto, between Rua Lisboa and Rua Henrique Schaumann When: Saturdays TOKYO Togo Shrine Antique Market Arrive early at this first-Sunday-of-the-month gathering to have your pick of wooden kokeshi dolls, old sake sets, and exquisite kimonos, all laid out on colorful mats on the grounds of a Togo shrine. Where: Located on the street Meiji Dori, in the Harajuku neighborhood, which is in the special ward of Shibuya-ku in Tokyo. It is a short walk from Harajuku St (JR Yamanote line) or Meiji Jingumae St (Chiyoda line). From both stations follow the signs for Takeshita dori When: The first Sunday of every month