Real Deals: September 2009

Someone recently told me that "vacations" are over and that Americans now take "getaways"—as if vacationing requires a three-week sojourn and we're all too wrapped up in work and worries to bother. Well, if a weeklong trip to California with my husband and daughter taught me anything, it's this: Vacations are genius, pure and simple, no matter how long they last. (And for the love of God, "staycations" don't qualify.) We started and ended our trip in San Francisco, where I grew up, and decamped to Napa for a couple of days of wine tasting, hiking, decompressing, and introducing our 7-month-old to the sublime pleasure of splashing around in a pool on a sunny day. And when I got back, I felt like a better version of myself—the surest sign of a good trip. I sometimes feel like an evangelist for travel (a host of Good Morning America wrapped up a segment I appeared on in May by saying, "Nina, you don't have to convince me to get out there!"). I won't get into all the reasons holding us back (not just work but money, time, missing The Real Housewives Reunion Special). The fact is, it's actually easier, cheaper, and more urgent than ever to do yourself a favor and buy a ticket to somewhere fabulous. Europe's totally on sale; there are enchanting discoveries right in your backyard, like on the North Fork of Long Island; and the same economic conditions that can make the prospect of taking a big trip feel daunting are also creating new opportunities to do exactly that. In our second edition of the Budget Travel Challenge, we explore the trend of last-minute bargains on long-haul flights. A writer taking the Challenge scored a ticket to Tokyo for $333. Tokyo! $333! Those are just a few of the ideas we have for you in this issue of crazy, accessible, totally doable vacations—or whatever you want to call them.

Establish a goal Is getting first crack at the merchandise or paying the lowest price your priority? If you're aiming for both, hit the market when it opens and take stock of what you want; then return a couple of hours before closing, when sellers are most willing to barter. Bring your singles A healthy stash of small bills is essential—it provides instant bargaining leverage ("Oh, I don't have a twenty, but here's a ten and a few ones"). Split the bills between two wallets, keeping one hidden so you always appear to be running out of cash. Buy in bulk Another surefire cost-cutting tactic is to snap up multiple objects from one person—the more you buy, the better your chances of saving. Respectfully hem and haw over each item; vendors can quickly provide reassurance by lowering the price. Decide on delivery Finally, make sure you have a solid plan to get all of your purchases home. Airlines have varying size and weight limitations, so keep a list of shipping companies handy. Internationally, we recommend DHL for timeliness and reliability (dhl.com).

ATHENS Monastiraki Market No Sunday in Athens is complete without a stroll through the narrow passageways of Monastiraki, where you can dig through piles of old coins and hand-painted icons—all with the Acropolis in view. Where: At the intersection of the streets Odos Pandrosou and Odos Ifaistou When: Sundays BEIJING Panjiayuan Market The doors open at 4:30 a.m. at the chaotic weekend version of this daily bazaar, with more than 3,000 stalls displaying jade jewelry, ceramic teapots, and Mao posters. Where: Just off South Third Ring Road East, to the east of Longtan Park When: Daily BERLIN Flohmarkt am Arkonaplatz The stately canvas-and-wood stalls lining this square each Sunday house an assortment of melamine tableware, textiles with geometric patterns, and glazed mid-century stoneware. Where: Arkonaplatz, between Wolliner Strasse and Ruppiner Strasse When: Sundays BRUSSELS Sablon Antiques Market Prices don't skew cheap on the well-preserved lacework, crystal, and hotel silver in this quaint, orderly weekend market, but great quality is the payoff. Where: Place du Grand Sablon (a.k.a. Grote Zavel), which is both a plaza and a stretch of cobblestoned road located between two streets Rue des Minimes (a.k.a. Rue Lebeau) and Rue de la Régence. When: Saturdays and Sundays BUENOS AIRES San Telmo Market Many of the embroidered textiles, estate jewelry, and chandeliers at this Sunday market in the city's tango district were brought over by the waves of Italians who immigrated to Argentina in the past 150 years. Where: Plaza Dorrego, located along the stretch of Calle Defensa between Avenida Independencia and Avenida San Juan When: Sundays BUSTEHRAD, CZECH REPUBLIC Collector's Market An insiders' secret even among Europeans, this informal twice-monthly market—sellers often showcase goods in the trunks of their cars—is a standout source for Eastern European artifacts like perestroika-era memorabilia. Where: Lidicka between Revolucni and 61; take the green metro line to Dejvicka and then the buses numbered 220010 or 220012 (15–20 minute ride) When: Twice each month CAIRO Khan el-Khalili Since the late 1300s, these dusty stone corridors have hosted an array of merchants with finely honed specialties: copperware, gold jew­elry, and carpets, in particular. Now, new pieces mix in with antiques. Where: Across from Al-Azhar mosque, bordered on the south by al-Azhar tareeq (street) and on the west by the Muski Market When: Daily CAPE TOWN Church Street Antiques Market This daily (except Sundays) market sells a wealth of small items like porcelain jewelry boxes, old postcards, and sailing maps. Where: On Church Street, running from Lansdowne Road to Wetton Road, in the City Centre When: Daily, except Sundays COPENHAGEN Bella Center Loppemarked Surprisingly affordable mid-century modern furniture and decor from the likes of Aalto, Wegner, and Saarinen fills this convention center's halls every March and August. Where: Center Boulevard 5 When: Every March and August LILLE, FRANCE La Grande Braderie de Lille Legend has it that this September event was once a forum in the Middle Ages for the servant class to sell objects cast off by their employers; today, residents crowd the streets from a Saturday afternoon until midnight Sunday to unload their own Breton crocheted linens and cer­amic mustard pots. Where: Citywide; parking and public transport info on the sponsoring website of this annual event When: One weekend each September LISBON Feira da Ladra Known as the "Thieves' Market," it dates back to the 12th century, when stolen goods made up the bulk of the stock; today's (legit) merchandise, set out Tuesdays and Saturdays, includes old cameras, stamp collections, leather-bound books, and transistor radios. Where: Campo de Santa Clara, a well known square in the Alfama district When: Tuesdays and Saturdays LONDON Portobello Road Market The more than 1,000 dealers snaking up Notting Hill's main thoroughfare every Saturday are (unofficially) divided by theme: Upper end for furniture and household wares and the lower for clothing and jewelry. Where: Between Golbourne Road and Chepstow Villas, on Portobello Road When: Sundays MEXICO CITY La Lagunilla Cuban antiques and centuries-old religious relics can be snapped up for practically nothing at this 500-year-old Sunday market that is, inexplicably, still under the radar for most out-of-towners. Where: 3 blocks east of Plaza de Garibaldi, at Calle Libertad, between Calle de la República de Chile (or Calle Comonfort) and Calle Allende. Take the metro (green line) to the Garibaldi/Lagunilla stop—Its icon is a guitar and jorongo (Mexican shawl). When: Sundays MILAN Naviglio Grande Antiques Market On the last Sunday of each month but July, sellers line this mile-long canal-side stretch with pristine vintage clothing and accessories, from designer bags to leather gloves. Where: Alzaia Naviglio Grande by the Porta Genova subway stop; dates and locations listed at the association's website When: The last Sunday of every month but July MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY Tristán Narvaja Beneath the chaos of this Sunday event (think caged tarantulas and blaring music) lies order: Each corridor has a distinct specialty, like records, used books, or leather goods—three of the market's strengths. Where: Between Avenida 18 de Julio and Calle Tristán Narvaja When: Sundays MOSCOW Izmailovsky Market The hokey onion-domed façades on this suburban weekend market belie the genuine treasures you'll find here. Look for nesting matryoshka dolls, Soviet military regalia, and handmade Central Asian suzanis and rugs. Where: In Izmaylovsky Park. Take the metro to Partizanskaya station When: Saturdays and Sundays NOTTINGHAMSHIRE, ENGLAND Newark International Antiques and Collectors Fair At the European equivalent of Brimfield, nearly 4,000 dealers gather six times a year on 84 acres in the British countryside, selling Victorian- and Edwardian-era items like parlor lamps and onyx jewelry. Where: Lincoln Road in Winthorpe, a village in the Newark and Sherwood district of in the county of Nottinghamshire When: Six times a year; check the fair website for date PARIS Porte de Vanves Less touristy and much more affordable than the famous Clignancourt market, this weekend affair is stocked with choice tabletop pieces (like Pernod carafes and bistro ashtrays) worth digging for. Where: Between Avenue Georges-Lafenestre and Avenue Marc-Sangnier, 14th arrondissement by the Porte de Vanves subway stop When: Saturdays and Sundays SÃO PAULO Praça Benedito Calixto Founded in 1987 by artists looking to sell their work, the Saturday Praça Benedito Calixto market has evolved to comprise an even split of the new and the old; delicately fashioned porcelain dishware sits next to piles of retired metal store signs. Where: On Praça Benedito Calixto, between Rua Lisboa and Rua Henrique Schaumann When: Saturdays TOKYO Togo Shrine Antique Market Arrive early at this first-Sunday-of-the-month gathering to have your pick of wooden kokeshi dolls, old sake sets, and exquisite kimonos, all laid out on colorful mats on the grounds of a Togo shrine. Where: Located on the street Meiji Dori, in the Harajuku neighborhood, which is in the special ward of Shibuya-ku in Tokyo. It is a short walk from Harajuku St (JR Yamanote line) or Meiji Jingumae St (Chiyoda line). From both stations follow the signs for Takeshita dori When: The first Sunday of every month

Some of my greatest travel memories are about exploring the local markets—digging through the goods, chatting with vendors, feeling my way through the nuances of a spirited negotiation. Each time, I walk away with an earful of native lore and insider info—on top of armfuls of awesome finds. Once, I picked up a pair of swingy silver earrings at a market in Uruguay and simultaneously bagged a tip for the best spot to dance to candombe music, something the seller insisted I do while wearing my new purchase. It was just the kind of authentic encounter I'd never have found in a shop on the main drag. Each of these 25 markets will leave you with that same richness of experience—as well as heaps of quality souvenirs. Who needs another plastic snow globe, anyway? 127 CORRIDOR SALE Where & when: From West Unity, Ohio, to Gadsden, Ala.; first weekend in Aug. What: For sheer variety, nothing tops the World's Longest Yard Sale, a bargain-hunter's paradise that meanders along 654 miles of scenic rural highway. Seasoned dealers in formal tents as well as locals unloading the contents of their attics set up shop roadside, hawking crocheted table linens, boxes of fishing lures, weathered iron bed frames, and garden statuary. There isn't one stretch of road that's consistently the best, so let regional attractions narrow your focus: In Tennessee alone, you can stay the night in a tepee or a log cabin and make a pit stop to pick wild blueberries at Pickett State Park. 127sale.com. Best shot at a bargain: At a sale this vast, it's simply all about persistence. BRIMFIELD ANTIQUE & FLEA MARKET SHOWS Where & when: Brimfield, Mass.; six consecutive days each in mid-May, July, and September. What: A local auctioneer, Gordon Reid, started this outdoor market, now the country's largest, on a somewhat humbler stage back in 1959: his own backyard. Now, more than 1 million visitors flood in every year to shop the peerless selection of affordable New England collectibles (weather vanes, decoys, and Nantucket baskets) and maritime accoutrements (brass lamps and ships' wheels) spread across more than 20 "fields" on either side of the town's main road, each containing hundreds of vendors. Three of the best fields are Dealer's Choice, known for its quality rustic furniture; Heart-O-The Mart, favored for hobnail glassware and intact grain sacks; and J&J Auction Acres, flush with high-end items like colonial cherrywood chests and convex mirrors. Even the food has a regional bent: Try the generously sized $10 lobster rolls, the fresh-popped kettle corn, and the Pilgrim Sandwich, a supersoft roll layered with roasted turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and mayo. brimfield.com. Best shot at a bargain: The slower July and September markets may yield better deals than the crowded May outing, which serves as the region's antiquing-season opener. Gigi's find: "I love how this portable radio is part gadget, part accessory: It swings closed into a ring shape you can carry around like a purse as it plays. I got it years ago at Brimfield for $15." SPRINGFIELD ANTIQUE SHOW & FLEA MARKET Where & when: Springfield, Ohio; one weekend each month, excluding February and July. What: Over the course of its quarter-century run, this busy market held on a county fairground has won a reputation as the heartland's go-to source for all things folky and primitive, such as old metal pails, Shaker boxes, cross-stitched samplers, and calico quilts. Farmhouse antiques, like blanket chests, milk-paint cupboards, and sturdy rocking chairs also figure prominently, as do well-preserved dishware and tabletop items. During each year's three supersize Extravaganzas—in May, June, and September—the number of vendors swells to more than 2,500, some operating out of cattle barns and poultry houses. Visit the market's online discussion forum to connect with sellers, preview goods, and even post wish lists. springfieldantiqueshow.com. Best shot at a bargain: Go in September, when dealers are trying to liquidate their stock for the winter. BROOKLYN FLEA Where & when: Brooklyn; Saturdays from mid-April through Thanksgiving. What: In less than two years, this sale in a Brooklyn schoolyard has attracted a large enough following to justify a second location and seasonal spin-off events. Shoppers come for the mix of vintage clothing and jewelry, architectural salvage, and decorative objects like modernist table lamps and metal desk fans dating from the early to mid-1900s. Alongside the secondhand-goods sellers, you'll find booths from local designers of reclaimed-wood furniture, handmade shoes, and more. The food stands are just as diverse: Celebrated taco vendors, cheesemongers, and bakers all make weekly appearances. brooklynflea.com. Best shot at a bargain: Many of the antiques vendors are willing to cut deals on their merchandise, but the proprietors of new goods tend to keep their prices firm. Gigi's find: "I bought this desk calendar for $30 at the Brooklyn Flea from one of my favorite sellers, Three Potato Four; the owners come up from Virginia every couple of months to sell. Their stuff is the best—sort of a happy-industrial meets old-school-classroom vibe." THE ALAMEDA POINT ANTIQUES & COLLECTIBLES FAIRE Where & when: Alameda, Calif.; first Sunday of each month. What: The San Francisco skyline and the hills of Marin County serve as a cinematic backdrop for this 800-plus-vendor market on the main runway of a decommissioned naval base on San Francisco Bay. Organizers enforce a 20-year-minimum age rule for sale items, which guarantees you'll be shopping for real-deal relics (like French travel posters, Hollywood movie memorabilia, and early-20th-century Japanese pottery), not tables of tube socks and cheap electronics. The layout is clear and intuitive, with long, evenly spaced rows arranged in a grid; thoughtful touches like pushcarts for hauling heavy purchases, a porcelain-repair kiosk, and free parking with a shuttle service add to the appeal. There's even a handy printable map on the market's website. antiquesbybay.com. Best shot at a bargain: Fewer sellers turn out from January through March, but those who do are often more eager to negotiate. Gigi's find: "I grew up in Texas, where learning to play dominoes is a rite of passage. I've been collecting vintage sets from various flea markets over the years, including this one from Alameda Point."