Florida for Families

By Brad Tuttle
October 31, 2007
0712_rt_florida
Lauren Keenan
Florida's northeast coast has plenty to thrill kids, but you don't have to be a youngster (or sip from the Fountain of Youth) to have a blast.

DAY 1
"Let's find treasure," says my 3-year-old son, William. Holding a map of Amelia Island's Fort Clinch State Park, he leads me up winding staircases, past rows of cannons, and into the dark barracks of the park's Civil War-era structure. As far as I know, Fort Clinch was never a hiding place for anyone's gold, but we're having too much fun to worry about historical accuracy. "I think I see a pirate ship!" I say, picking Will up so that he can peer at Cumberland Sound through an opening in the brick walls.

When traveling with kids, it's often wise to follow their leads--even if that means rarely sitting still. Keeping an eye open for moments to relax is also smart. While Will and I are at the fort, my wife, Jessica, and Owen, our 1-year-old, take a late-morning nap in our room at Amelia Hotel At The Beach. Soon enough, I get a break, too. Will and I sit under a canopy of trees at a playground across from the fort and share a banana and some Oreos.

Following the treasure hunt at Fort Clinch, the four of us regroup atBarbara Jean's, a regional mini chain that has a reputation for outstanding Southern food. The location--in a shiny new development--doesn't seem at all down-home. But the porch is pleasant, and lunch is delicious: pot roast, meat loaf, green beans, squash casserole, three types of homemade bread. Naturally, we also order Chocolate Stuff, a bowl of half-cooked brownie mix covered in whipped cream.

Dinner doesn't go as smoothly. At a Mexican place in downtown Fernandina Beach calledPablo's, Owen grows fascinated with a blond baby girl across the courtyard. He proceeds to fling rice and beans while trying to escape the high chair. Jessica and I each gulp down two of the strong margaritas as we attempt to get everyone fed without too much disturbance.

Fernandina Beach, the lone town on Amelia Island, is a charming old port. Victorian homes, brick buildings, and palm trees drape Centre Street. It feels genuinely Southern, more akin to Charleston than to Miami. 

As the sun fades, the four of us splash in the hotel pool before turning in for the night. We're all asleep by 8:30 p.m.

Lodging

Food

  • Barbara Jean's960030 Gateway Blvd., Amelia Island, 904/277-3700, barbarajeans.com, pot roast $10
  • Pablo's12 N. 2nd St., Fernandina Beach, 904/261-0049, fajitas $8

Activities

DAY 2
Our first destination is theFountain of Youth, in St. Augustine. It bills itself as a "national archaeological park"--a tourist trap too irresistible to pass up. (An earlier Google search revealed that there's no proof Ponce de León ever set foot on the grounds. It also yielded a link to a plastic surgery clinic in Tampa.) There's a diorama of Spanish soldiers and a frilly, blue, rolling mechanism meant to resemble ocean waves. In the center of the room is a brown stone well. The guide hands out cups of the famed water, which smells and tastes of sulfur. If you have to drink a lot of this stuff to live forever, forget it.

Further proof of Florida's eccentricity is in Vilano Beach, where there's a medieval-style castle built as a really big work of art. The castle is the turnoff point forCap's on the Water, a wonderful seafood restaurant where we have an early lunch under some old oak trees that overlook marshland and the Tolomato River.

We then head over to theSt. Augustine Alligator Farm Zoological Park, where we find parking alongside three school buses. "This place is a zoo," I say, before realizing the pun. Will and Owen don't mind the crowds or the broiling heat. They watch in awe as a staffer entices Maximo, a 15-foot-long crocodile, to leap out of the pool and munch on some rodents.

TheSt. George Innis at the north end of St. Augustine's historic district. Rooms are divided among four adorable buildings. Ours has a view of the city gates and theCastillo de San Marcos National Monument, a 17th-century fort that protected Spanish, British, and American soldiers--in that order. As Owen naps, Will and I search for irates and then play hide-and-seek at Project SWING Park, a world-class playground. The slides, bridges, and stairs are so intricate that I worry about not being able to find him.

In the early evening, we all walk along St. George Street, lined by 18th-century buildings now home to bars, ice-cream parlors, restaurants, and souvenir shops. There are scores of T-shirts using the wordbootyin creative ways. Jessica and I consciously avoid pointing out the creepy figure staring out from the Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse, a small museum that, thankfully, is closed.

Lodging

  • St. George Inn4 St. George St., St. Augustine, 888/827-5740, stgeorge-inn.com, from $109

Food

  • Cap's on the Water4325 Myrtle St., Vilano Beach, 904/824-8794, capsonthewater.com, fish sandwich $9

Activities

  • St. Augustine Alligator Farm999 Anastasia Blvd., 904/824-3337, alligatorfarm.com, $20, $11 kids
  • Castillo de San MarcosSt. Augustine, 904/829-6506, nps.gov/casa, $6, kids free

DAY 3
"Have you seen any ghosts yet?" a man sweeping across from our hotel asks Will. Jessica quickly says that the man is just being silly. "Oh, no," responds the man, who clearly either doesn't have kids or is a total sadist. "They're out there. You just have to keep your eyes open."

I jerk Will's hand and we continue on down St. George Street to eat breakfast at theBunnery Bakery & Café, which we'd passed--or, to be honest, drooled in front of--the day before. After eggs, pancakes, and French toast, I order a cinnamon roll to go, which comes with its own little container of icing.

Even though our children aren't old enough to take part in most of the interactive programs atMarineland, the park is worth a visit. At the dolphin preserve, we watch as grammar-school-age kids hold canvases over the pool and tell the trainers which color they'd like next. The dolphins, with brushes in their mouths, spin and nod to produce artwork that the kids can keep as a memento.

We drive through pouring rain alongside the seemingly never-ending stretch of grandstands of the Daytona Inter­national Speedway before pulling up to theDaytona 500 Experience, an exhibit dedicated to auto racing. Will's shouts of "Wow!" and "Lookit!" draw stares from a family reverently viewing a Daytona 500 highlight reel. Our admission includes a 3-D IMAX movie, and it's a great--if rather loud--spectacle. Will, in goofy 3-D glasses, gropes the air in a fruitless attempt to touch the driver hovering in front of him. I come away with a deep respect for pit crews.

After a few nights of the whole family's sharing a room, Jessica and I are ready for our two-bedroom condo atAtlantic Plazain New Smyrna Beach, a low-key town south of Daytona. We head directly to the beach. The waves are nice and small, and the water remains shallow hundreds of feet from the shoreline.

Lodging

  • Atlantic Plaza425 S. Atlantic Ave., New Smyrna Beach, 386/427-4636, atlanticplaza.net, from $100

Food

  • Bunnery Bakery121 St. George St., St. Augustine, 904/829-6166

Activities

  • Marineland9600 Ocean Shore Blvd., St. Augustine, 904/471-1111, marineland.net, $5, programs from $65

DAY 4
As we drive down Route 1, lovebugs--so called because they fly in pairs--fill the sky, sounding like hail as they splatter on the windshield. Every car atJohn F. Kennedy Space Centerhas a five o'clock shadow of lovebug guts on its grille.

I figured that since the Center charges for kids 3 and up, there'll be stuff for Will to do. But we make it through only 10 minutes of an IMAX movie, and checking out the shuttleExplorerdoesn't take long. No way can we deal with a two-hour bus tour.

The new Shuttle Launch Experience is off-limits to kids under four feet tall, but it's included in my admission, so I decide to give it a go. After a former astronaut on a video screen preps riders with astro-jargon, the ride turns us on our backs and I feel a pressure on my cheeks reminiscent of being on a roller coaster. The launch ends with a peaceful view of the earth.

Will, Owen, and I pose for a photo with our heads poking through a cutout that makes us look like astronauts, and then we walk toward the Rocket Garden, where real rockets are standing upright. Will has been completely jazzed about the rockets from the moment he spied them. But first, we make an important detour: There's a fantastic playground on the way.

Activities

Plan Your Next Getaway
Keep reading

Expert Advice: Top 9 Ski Tips

1. Getting in shape "Take yoga classes before you go: Yoga works the whole body, stretches muscles, and gets you used to balancing. You don't want to wake up after your first day and be too sore to ski." Troy Hawks, editor, National Ski Areas Association Journal 2. Packing "Most airlines let you travel with a ski bag as one of your checked bags. Just be aware of the weight allowance." Mike Douglas, Salomon International Ski Team 3. Car rentals "If you're renting a car, call ahead to reserve a four-wheel drive or snow tires. Don't settle for chains. There's no worse nightmare than dealing with chains." Phil McNichol, head men's coach, U.S. Ski Team 4. Acclimating "I never ski the first day. Your body is tired, so you're at greater risk of injury. Go for a walk or run instead. It'll help you adjust to the climate and altitude." Olympic gold medalist Julia Mancuso (giant slalom, 2006) 5. Selecting skis "Call a ski shop near the resort and reserve demos. They're high-end skis that won't make you look like a gaper, the way most rentals do." Jonny Moseley, Olympic gold medalist (moguls, 1998) and Ski Channel advisor 6. Socks "Ski socks are way better than standard cotton socks. They allow more blood flow, have cushioning where boots can accommodate it, and are warmer. And before you put them on, spray your feet with antiperspirant. Your feet will be drier and warmer." Dee Byrne, director, Vail Snowsports School 7. Helmets "For the sport of alpine ski racing, helmets are required at every level of competition, and that's trickling down. Skiers without helmets are in the minority." Andy LeRoy, head alpine coach, University of Denver 8. Scoping out the mountain "Most resorts offer tours at the beginning of the day. Take one that's geared to your level. It'll help you pick out the runs you'll really enjoy. Besides, tours are a great way to meet people." Tom West, president and CEO, U.S. National Ski and Snowboard Hall of Fame and Museum 9. Safety "Don't end the day with a difficult run. Not only will you have already peaked, but the conditions change. In late afternoon, the light gets flat, the temperatures go down, and everyone else is tired. Statistics show that most accidents occur late in the day." Tim White, executive director, National Ski Patrol

Japanese Fashion Loosens Up

British anthropologist Philomena Keet recently stopped by our office to chat about the making of The Tokyo Look Book, a photo overview of Tokyo's dynamic street fashions, which comes out November 1 from Kodansha International ($30; barnesandnoble.com). Keet, dressed in a green brocade coat counterbalanced by her brilliantly red hair, pauses before trying to summarize the complex world of Japanese subculture styles. "Tokyo isn't like any other city; there is not such a one, dominant mainstream culture. Instead, there are mini-markets and micro-masses created and fed by niche magazines and boutiques. In Japan, fashion doesn't have any moral disapproval or negative associated with it." Keet's book, created by pounding Tokyo's pavement for five months with a photographer, is unique in its scope. Not only does she profile specific youth subcultures concentrated in a few celebrated districts, but she also turns a lens on the rest of Tokyo society. She finds that many Japanese, even conservative salarymen, are individualizing their looks in ever bolder ways. To see some examples, check out the slide show. Keet listed for us the must-see neighborhoods for travelers who want to see Tokyo's street styles for themselves. Here are the areas to head for and what to expect when you get there: Shibuyu and Harajuku are the main centers of Tokyo's youth fashion scenes. Weekends—when all the kids change from school uniforms to full subculture gear—are especially vibrant. Make sure to check out the groups standing on Jingubashi Bridge next to the Harajuku station, wander around the backstreets of Harajuku, and visit Shibuyu 109 mall, where many of the trendiest boutiques are located. As a little antidote to all the frills and youth of Harajuku, check out the nearby Aoyama area; you'll find avant garde high fashion boutiques, such as the Japanese label, Comme des Garçons. Keet also recommends the districts of Daikanyama and Naka-Meguro for great street style without the tourists and wannabes that now clog Harajuku's sidewalks. Marunouchi is where to find a lot of sophisticated, high-fashion, international boutiques (think Louis Vuitton) and salary, or business, men and women. Ginza is another upscale neighborhood to spot more high-end fashion. Akihabara is where the otaku, or geek subculture, like to hang out. It is also know for its high concentration of "maid cafés," a business phenomenon in which male customers are served obsequiously by women dressed as French maids. Another phenomenon, particularly popular in the Shinjuku and Raponggi neighborhoods, is the host club, a nightclub that's the inverse of a geisha house. Women pay extravagant cover fees and drink prices to exchange pleasantries with good-looking, well-dressed, entertaining young men. Keet warns travelers that an evening's bill might easily be over a thousand dollars. "Typically, the clientele for host clubs are women who are night workers themselves. They pay to be treated well, and are often the only ones who can afford it." Luckily, passing these hosts on the street, as one often does in these neighborhoods, is entertainment enough—and free. You can find a lot of vintage stores—often stocked with t-shirts imported from the United States—in Koenji and Shimokitazawa. Youth decked out as rockabillies hang out in Yoyogi Park, during its famous Sunday flea market.

Rome Guidebook Smackdown!

BT Top Pick * The star goes to the guidebook that the insider considers the most useful. OUR PANELISTS Marta Falconi Born in Rome 27 years ago, she's now a reporter in the Associated Press's bureau there. Christopher P. Winner The editor and publisher of The American magazine has lived in Rome since 1975. Sofia Celeste Based in Rome since 2004, she has written for The Wall Street Journal and The Boston Globe. THE BOOKS Rick Steves' Rome 2008 ($18) Marta Falconi: A friendly approach, with first-person reports, B&W photos, and hand-drawn maps. Restaurants get less play than attractions, and nightlife coverage is virtually nonexistent. Best for backpackers or families with little time in the city. Christopher Winner: A long, generally precise monologue. But basic needs like lodging and food aren't separated from tourism, and the religious coverage is nearly double that of entertainment and dining. What the guide lacks in maps--there are few--it makes up for in clear writing. Sofia Celeste: Written with the humor and street smarts of a local, and full of insider info. The restaurant guide will lead you to the best little-known spots as well as the nearest McDonald's. Anyone looking for the trendiest places, however, will want to hang out with someone other than Rick Steves. The Rough Guide to Rome, 2007 ($18) Marta Falconi: The best take of the three on the Vatican, with essential maps. No ratings, though, so you can't tell at a glance which attractions you can ignore. In general, descriptions are only a few lines, and some restaurant/bar entries are outdated. At least one closed long ago. Christopher Winner: * Time Out's gloss meets Steves's primitivism. Listings are approachable, and there are eight maps at the back of the book. Best of all, a Contexts section includes lovely excerpts about the city and astute book tips--it's just one more example of the book's attention to detail. Sofia Celeste: Seeking a tour that includes the setting of Tosca? This is the guidebook for you. It's thick with historical and cultural background, but lacks a simple breakdown of restaurants, hotels, and clubs. Definitely better for more-mature travelers. Time Out Rome, 2007 ($20) Marta Falconi: * A hip, entertaining guide packed with the latest on bars, restaurants, and trends--even most locals would find it useful. Quality photos and smooth graphics make for better reading. Nothing seems to be missing; the book even has a small glossary of pizza toppings. Christopher Winner: The attitude can be jarring: An essay on art is subtitled, "So many Virgins, so little time...." Please. The nightlife and entertainment sections are the best around, making the book a better bible for the 20-something crowd than for anyone else. Sofia Celeste: * Goes beyond a directory of boutique hotels and day spas (though that's here, too) with insightful articles on topics such as Pope Benedict XVI. Despite Time Out's fairly youthful reputation, bargain hunters should look elsewhere.