Europe: Day 4, Rome to Ostia

Europe's train systems make it possible to reclaim a sense of adventure--and still be back in time for dinner. PRAGUE TO KUTNÁ HORA The eeriest tourist attraction anywhere in Eastern Europe: Kutná Hora is a Gothic village with much of the charm of Prague's Old Town, minus the crowds, and the hilly location makes for excellent photo ops. The train stops at the town's Hlavní Nádrazí (main train station); a smaller commuter train will take you onward to local stops. Get off at the first stop, Kutná Hora-Sedlec, and follow the signs to the Kostnice, or ossuary (a 10-minute walk from the main train station). It's a collection of 40,000 human bones--mostly from the plague years in the 14th century--artistically arranged; there's a chandelier composed of every bone in the human body and a coat of arms made of human skulls and scapulae. Back at Kutná Hora-Sedlec, grab another commuter train to the station called Kutná Hora-Mesto, near the old town (or walk--the ossuary is a mile and a half away). Kutná Hora was an ancient center of silver mining and minting. Those riches paid for the stunning Cathedral of St. Barbara, founded in 1388; the flying buttresses and soaring spires make it one of the best examples of late-Gothic architecture in Central Europe. A three-minute walk down Barborská Street, the Czech Museum of Silver offers tours of the remaining mines and displays of historic coins. When it's time to recharge, wander over to Dacický Pivnice, where the hearty meat-and-potatoes fare is updated from medieval recipes and the boisterous taproom pours five types of beer--the pilsner is excellent with the buttery roasted trout. Get in a quick game of ninepins in the pub's backyard before heading over to the creepy Alchemy Museum, devoted to the times when people tried to convert base metals into gold. Finally, for a one-of-a-kind souvenir, pick up a colorful handmade hat by milliners Bára Jelínková and Lucie Franková at the Salon Meluzína. Return-trip snack A box of Karlovarské Oplatky, thin round wafers that are filled with chocolate, vanilla, or hazelnut paste. You can find them at station kiosks for $2 or so. Details Kostnice: Zamecka 127, 011-420/327-561-143, kostnice.cz, $2. Cathedral of St. Barbara: Barborská 1, 011-420/327-512-115, $2. Czech Museum of Silver: Barborská 28, 011-420/327-512-159, $3 for museum, $6 for museum and mine, e-mail objednavky@cms-kh.cz in advance to reserve an English tour. Dacický Pivnice: Rakova 8, 011-420/327-512-248, dacicky.com, entrées from $5. Alchemy Museum: Sankturinovský dúm, Palackého Námestí, 011-420/603-308-024, alchemy.cz, $2. Salon Meluzína: Jakubská 3, 011-420/327-513-660, meluzina.cz, from $33. Train info One hour each way. Round-trip ticket: $7. The fast train to Kutná Hora (direction Brno) from Prague's Hlavní Nádrazí station departs daily at 9:54 A.M. The trip takes just over an hour. A return ticket ($7 round trip) is the best deal, but you must come back within 48 hours; you can book it in advance from an agent at the station or on the day of travel, but be sure to arrive at least 30 minutes before your train leaves. First-class is just a few dollars more. From Kutná Hora, there's a fast train back to Prague at 4:59 P.M. Schedules at cd.cz.

Europe's train systems make it possible to reclaim a sense of adventure--and still be back in time for dinner. PARIS TO PROVINS Exploring medieval France without using a time machine: Provins (it's pronounced pro-vanh) is one of the few medieval towns in the Paris region, and it's certainly the prettiest. More than a mile of crenellated ramparts hugs the ville haute (upper town), which is crowned by the Tour César, a turreted, fortified tower that overlooks the fertile green countryside. Back in its heyday in the 12th and 13th centuries, Provins was famous for its huge trading fairs, or foires, when the streets welcomed convoys of carts and wagons full of goods from all over Europe. You'll arrive in the more recent--and also pretty--ville basse (lower town). From there, a 10-minute stroll takes you to the base of the medieval cité. There aren't a lot of clearly marked signs to the old town from the train station; grab a map at the train station, or print one in advance at provins.net. The center of the old town is the place du Châtel, a large square surrounded by half-timbered buildings and several cafés. In the morning (hours vary by season), you can visit the Tour César, the domed Saint Quiriace church (an interesting conglomeration of 13th- and 17th-century architecture), and the Grange aux Dîmes, a huge 13th-century edifice used by merchants during the fairs to sell their wares. Your best lunch option is a picnic in front of the magnificent 12th- and 13th-century ramparts. If you come on Saturday, stock up on goodies at the open-air market in the ville basse; if the weather doesn't cooperate, have a crepe at La Fleur de Sel. During the high season (April-October), there are plenty of ways to spend the afternoon, including a falconry display with eagles and vultures; a re-creation of a battle, complete with knights in shining armor; and a motorized tourist train called Le Petit Train that runs around the ville haute. Return-trip snack Brie and bread from Au Bon Terroir; made in the area, the cheese is far superior to the pasteurized stuff sold in the U.S. Details Provins Tourism Office: 011-33/1-64-60-26-26, provins.net. Tour César: rue de la Pie, $4.50. Grange aux Dîmes: 2 rue Saint Jean, $4.50; call or check website for schedule November to March. La Fleur de Sel: place du Châtel, 011-33/1-64-00-26-34. Battle re-creation: $6. Le Petit Train: $7. Au Bon Terroir: place du Châtel, ville haute, 011-33/6-85-54-60-57. Train info 80 minutes each way. Round-trip ticket: $26. Commuter trains to Provins leave from Paris's Gare de l'Est; a direct line runs every morning at 9:09, except Mondays (9:14) and Saturdays (10:14). Since a round-trip ticket costs $26, you're better off buying a Mobilis one-day pass valid for eight zones ($25)--Provins is in Zone 8--which allows unlimited travel on Paris's public transport and regional trains. Cards can be purchased in advance at metro, bus, and train stations. On the day of travel, write the date and your name on the card; it's activated once you insert it into a subway turnstile or get it stamped at one of the yellow composteur machines at Gare de l'Est. The ride to Provins takes about 80 minutes. The 5:53 p.m. return train arrives in Paris in time for dinner; there's also one at 8:10 P.M. Schedules at transilien.com.

Europe's train systems make it possible to reclaim a sense of adventure--and still be back in time for dinner. BERLIN TO WITTENBERG Rest and recreation in the birthplace of the Reformation: Only now finishing extensive restoration after decades of Communist-era neglect, Wittenberg is where Martin Luther started his fateful break with the Catholic Church. Easy to explore by foot, the cobbled streets boast a concentration of ancient churches, chapels, and cloisters--although religious life is only slowly reviving after virtual extirpation under Communism. Start with Luther's House (Lutherhalle), a 16th-century former monastery at the entrance to the pedestrian-only Old Town (Altstadt), a 10-minute walk from Lutherstadt Wittenberg train station. Lutherhalle houses a museum of the Reformation, along with a room untouched since Luther's time. As you walk past the patrician houses lining Collegienstrasse, you can see the spires of the Stadtkirche (City Church), relatively unchanged since the reformer preached there. The splendid altarpiece, by German old master Lucas Cranach the Elder, shows a Last Supper scene incorporating the face of Martin Luther. Stop for lunch at one of the cafés on the Renaissance-era market square, or, better yet, head to Brauhaus Wittenberg, a brewpub in a restored 15th-century mansion. Locals like the braised pig's knuckle and kraut and the herring with a fresh wheat beer. In the afternoon, check out the Schlosskirche (Castle Church), where in 1517 Luther nailed his 95 Theses, the act of rebellion that launched the Protestant Reformation. (The bronze door with the theses inscribed was added centuries later.) Climb the 289-foot bell tower--damaged by a tornado, it's due to reopen this month--to get a view of the Elbe River. For a taste of more recent times, there's the House of History, a museum devoted to lifestyle accessories of East German Communism, such as vintage kitchen appliances and sturdy undergarments. Return-trip snack A crispy rye-roll sandwich from Ihr Bäcker bakery, located on the main market square. Details Luther's House (Lutherhalle): Collegienstrasse 54, 011-49/3491-42030, martinluther.de, $7. Stadtkirche: 011-49/3491-62830, stadtkirchengemeinde-wittenberg.de. Brauhaus Wittenberg: Markt 6, 011-49/3491-433-130, brauhaus-wittenberg.de, brewery tours available, entrées from $12. Schlosskirche: schlosskirche-wittenberg.de, 011-49/3491-402-585, free organ concert at 2:30 p.m. each Tuesday, guided tours by reservation only. House of History: Schlossstrasse 6, 011-49/3491-409-004, pflug-ev.de. Ihr Bäcker: Markt 6, 011-49/3491-419-235, sandwich $3. Train info 40 minutes each way. Round-trip ticket: $60. The quick IC and ICE trains (from $60 round trip) take 40 minutes to get from Berlin's Hauptbahnhof to Lutherstadt Wittenberg. A slow train ($49 round trip) takes a half hour longer. There are fast-train deals: The Sparpreis 25 and 50, which must be booked at least three days (but no more than three months) out, offer 25 percent off on weekdays and half off on weekends; subject to availability. If one passenger pays the Sparpreis fare, up to four accompanying passengers will pay half the Sparpreis fare. Buy tickets online (bring your credit card to the train) or at the station. An ICE train departs at 9:52 A.M. (or 8:39 A.M., except Sundays); catch a return at 4:36 P.M. Schedules at bahn.de.

Europe's train systems make it possible to reclaim a sense of adventure--and still be back in time for dinner. LONDON TO BATTLE An afternoon of cream tea and William the Conqueror: Battle is the hilltop market town deep in the English countryside where, in 1066, William the Conqueror defeated the Anglo-Saxon King Harold in the Battle of Hastings, setting the course of modern British history. Battle Abbey was built right on the battlefield. A visitors center with a museum and theater opened in February, but the best way to experience Battle is through one of the evocative audio tours that lead visitors first through a small exhibit explaining the reasons for the battle and then around the grounds. Take the longer version, which wends a circuit around the hill, past meadows and a small lake covered in rushes and yellow water lilies. The tour of the battlefield, abbey ruins, and museums requires about two hours. In the gift shop, pick up the Official Guide to Battle, which contains information on the Battle Town Trail, a self-guided tour of the historic buildings and spots on the High Street. For lunch, skip the Pilgrim's Rest (in a 1420 half-timbered building) and other restaurants near the Abbey gates, and walk up the High Street to Mount Street and turn right. The King's Head is a 15th-century pub with a large fireplace and nonsmoking dining room; the fish and chips is scrumptious. Or have cream tea (tea, cream, scones, butter, and a pot of jam) at The Bayeux Cottage, a tearoom across the street. After lunch, continue exploring the Town Trail and stop in at the Battle Museum of Local History on the grounds of the Almonry, which dates to the 11th century. The museum's collection of locally found artifacts includes an iron military ax from the Battle of Hastings. Return down the High Street and, if there's time, spend a few minutes in Yesterday's World. It's an interactive museum containing 100,000 artifacts from 1870 to 1970; the effect is a sort of time-traveler's journey through British history. Queen Victoria herself seems to narrate. Return-trip snack A Cornish pasty stuffed with minced meat and vegetables ($3) from Martel's of Battle. Details Battle Abbey: english-heritage.org.uk/battleabbey, $12. The King's Head: 37 Mount St., 011-44/1424-772-317; yeoldekingshead.org; lunch for two $20. The Bayeux Cottage: 11 Mount St., 011-44/1424-772-593, cream tea $7. Battle Museum of Local History: The Almonry, High St., 011-44/1424-775-955, battlemuseum.org.uk. Yesterday's World: 89-90 High St., 011-44/1424-893-938, yesterdaysworld.co.uk, $15. Martel's of Battle: 65 High St., 011-44/1424-772-547. Train info 80 minutes each way. Round-trip ticket: $49. National Rail sells an all-in-one ticket for Battle Abbey, which includes round-trip trains and admission to the ruins, for $49. (Trains on their own cost $41.) You must depart after 9:30 A.M. and come back at any time the same day. From London Charing Cross station, the Southeastern to Hastings leaves at 9:45 A.M. (9:40 on Sundays), arriving in Battle at a few minutes past 11:00. Signs to the abbey are posted outside of the station--it's about a 10-minute walk. Trains return to London every half hour until 7 P.M., at which point they begin running hourly. Purchase the all-in-one ticket from an agent at the station; ask for the Battle Abbey ticket. Schedules at nationalrail.co.uk.