Guidebook Smackdown

October 19, 2007

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Trip Coach: October 16, 2007

Joshua Berman: Buen Dia' Everyone! I'm Joshua Berman, co-author of Moon Nicaragua and Moon Living Abroad In Nicaragua, the two most comprehensive guidebooks to Central America's largest, least visited, and most fascinating nation. I'll start with a tip-of-the-hat to my co-author in crime, Randall Wood, who lives in West Africa with his Nicaraguan wife and will not be joining us today. Randy and I first started exploring Nicaragua as Peace Corps Volunteers in 1998 and have continued to work, travel, write, and enjoy "The Land of Lakes and Volcanoes" as much as we can. You can always reach us at GoToNicaragua.com where we field readers' questions daily--just in case you forget to ask something today. I am a freelance writer, editor, and trip leader, who specializes in volunteering abroad. For more on me, please visit joshuaberman.net Bueno, we've got many excellent questions, so let's begin. _______________________ Wilmington, N.C.: Our family is traveling for 5 weeks in Dec/Jan. How do we get listing of cultural events/performances etc. E.G. Dimension Costena, Ruben Dario Theater? How do we find fine artists in their element? Alan Joshua Berman: Since you have a decent chunk of time, Alan, I'd say just get down there, settle in, and read the newspapers for local listings. Sounds like you may be spending a few nights in Managua--do so over the weekend and you are guaranteed live performances. Do not miss Casa de Los Mejía Godoy and one of the many fine salsa bars around town. _______________________ New York, N.Y.: I'm from the sandy shore of New York's Atlantic coast. What's the best way to get over to the Atlantic side of Nicaragua once I touch down in Managua? What can one find out there to do? Joshua Berman: Don't leave the airport--just hop a local puddle jumper for the 45-minute flight to Bluefields or Big Corn Island. You'll find clear waters, snorkeling, Hank Williams and Bob Marley on the radio, and lots of fish to eat. _______________________ Sparta, Tenn.: My husband and I are considering going to Nicaragua sometime in the late winter. Is it feasible to rent a car and travel independently? We would like to tour the whole country for about two weeks. Joshua Berman: Yes, you can rent a car, but only if you're comfortable driving in more chaotic conditions than you're probably used to. You'll also want some conversational Spanish skills for when the policia pull you over for some invented "mala maniobra," which means "bad driving." I recommend the bus system, or if you have the cash, hiring a car and driver recommended by your hotel so you can enjoy the scenery instead of having to deal with dodging cattle, dogs, drunkards, and horse carts in the roads. _______________________ Santa Rosa, Calif.: Is there anything you would recommend bringing to endure the scheduled power outages? For example, kerosene lanterns? The places I will be traveling will not have generators. Joshua Berman: I wouldn't want to travel with any fossil fuels sloshing around my pack, so I'd take a long-lasting LED headlamp, and maybe a battery-powered small lantern. Bring a surge protector for your laptop, spare batteries, and when you get there, stock up on candles. _______________________ Oaxaca, Mexico: How would you describe the conservation ethic and ecotourism opportunities in Nicaragua? What are some of the best and worst examples? Joshua Berman: Great question, amigo. Nicaragua is still one of the poorest countries in the hemisphere and pressure on remaining forests and natural resources is high, especially as rural populations continue to push into unsettled areas with slash and burn agriculture. Deforestation is a massive problem, especially when complicated by bark beetle plagues and fire. Proper solid waste disposal is another big issue and you can do your part by producing less trash when you're there (please go easy on the disposable water bottles! Refill a bottle you bring from home instead!). Of course, tourism is the double-edged machete that can either help the situation or complicate it. Fortunately, there are many examples of excellent low-impact, community-friendly tourism opportunities throughout the country, where participants can learn about local wildlife and plants while interacting with and supporting local communities. Some of my favorite examples are in the north--Tisey and Miraflor Reservers in Estelí, Finca Esperanza Verde and the CECOCAFEN community coffee tours in Matagalpa, to name a couple. There are also excellent community based ecotourism models in León and Chinandega areas, like Padre Ramos and Isla Juan Venado. Also check out Hacienda Merida on Isla de Ometepe. _______________________ Huntington, N.Y.: Is there public golf anywhere in Nicaragua? Joshua Berman: Yes many of the "Nicas Ricas," as the country's elite are known, grew up in Miami and love to hit the links. There are some scraggly country clubs near Managua, and maybe a course or two in the gated communities going up around San Juan del Sur, but overall, the answer is "Not so much." Plan a golf vacation elsewhere and instead, follow Nicaraguans to the closest baseball stadium to join them in their biggest sport passion. _______________________ Chicago, Ill.: I feel in love with Ometepe and the people there. Is there any way to buy just a simple place on Ometepe? Rhea Joshua Berman: Rhea: I agree, there is something very special about La Isla de Ometepe, a gorgeous double-cone pair of volcanoes rising from Lake Nicaragua, also known as Lago de Cocibolca, or "The Sweet Sea." There is a calm, magical quality to life there. I've heard a few people mention that Ometepe will be the "next big thing" in Nicaraguan real estate, but as far as I know, this has not happened yet. Your best bet is to go to the island, talk to as many people you can and see what's available. You may also track down realtors in Rivas or San Juan del Sur (there's certainly no shortage of them). _______________________ Belleville, N.J.: My wife and I are BIG wine drinkers. So much so, in fact, that we try to schedule our vacations around visiting new regions to try the local wines. After hitting several different regions on the West Coast and multiple wine festivals, we're eager to branch out a bit. My wife especially loves non-American wine. Does Nicaragua have a wine industry to make a trip there worthwhile? Joshua Berman: Nicaraguan wine? Sorry. Some towns produce sweet "wine" from papaya or cashew fruit, but I doubt it's what you're looking for. That said, Nicaraguan-produced Flor de Caña is the best rum in all of Central America. No joke, so if you're willing to expand your beverage base, then by all means, come on down! Nicaragua also produces some of the best coffee in the world, and a trip to Matagalpa or Esteli for "café-turismo" is a must. _______________________ Lawrence, Kans.: Is a trip from our cruise boat to Leon and the mud pots worth making? Is it safe? Joshua Berman: To Leon from San Juan del Sur and back in a single day? Sounds like a very long day. I'd stick closer to San Juan, maybe do a trip to the pottery town of San Juan d'Oriente if that interests you. Is it safe? YES! _______________________ Waukesha, Wis.: Our cruise gets in at 8am in San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua Nov. 21, 07. Can I hire a taxi or bus tour at the port to sightsee instead of taking the cruise's tours? Is it expensive? Joshua Berman: I always recommend hiring local services over the cruise ship's more expensive options. The only way cruise ships are beneficial for Nicaragua is if passengers leave a little cash in the local community--otherwise, the only thing San Juan residents receive is a loud convoy of exhaust-spewing buses through their otherwise peaceful village and little else. Just walking the streets and beaches of San Juan del Sur should be an exotic enough of an experience--why spend hours in a vehicle, when you're already in one of Nicaragua's premier destinations? _______________________ Los Feliz, Calif.: Hi. I am traveling to Costa Rica and to Nicaragua around New Year's. I want to know which is the best crossing point from CR to Nica. In Nica, I need to end up in San Juan in the south. Thanks. Joshua Berman: You'll cross into Nica at Pe?as Blancas, which is only about a half hour from San Juan del Sur by bus or collective taxi. The only other option is to take a boat into Nicaragua from Los Chiles, Costa Rica up the river to San Carlos, at the mouth of the Rio San Juan. This is far less common and more remote. _______________________ Kingsley, Mich.: We're hoping to go to the Corn Islands in late March. (Please don't tell any more people about them!) We're thinking 2-3 days on Big Corn and 2-3 days on Little Corn, with a night in Managua on either end (for flight purposes). There are lot of accommodations listed for both islands; any tips you have for places to stay would be helpful. Also, any safety worries, either on the islands or in Managua? Joshua Berman: Most of the options in Moon Nicaragua are still good ones, including Casa Iguana on Little Corn and Hotel Club Paraíso or Picnic Center on Big Corn. As for safety, when you arrive, ask your hotel hosts about where it's safe to go after dark and other specific local suggestions. Use standard common sense and you'll be fine. _______________________ San Diego, Calif.: We are going to Granada & Corn Island in November. I have been to Corn before but this will be the first trip to Granada. Do you have any don't miss/experience for Granada? It looks beautiful. I am interested in transportation from Managua to Granada. also. The El Club Hotel's web has info that they will pick you up at the airport. Do you know anything about this place? Any other cool hotels in Granada that you can mention would be appreciated. Thanks! Joshua Berman: There are now a few regular shuttle services between the airport in Managua and Granada--I assume this is what you're looking for. Check out Paxeos. To get from the airport to San Juan del Sur, check Adelante Express. If you're talking about traveling from downtown Managua to Granada, just make your way to the University of Central America parking lot (known as "La UKA" pronounced "La Ookah") and take a "microbus" for the 30-40 minute drive. This option costs less than $2. El Club is new and nice and swanky, but if the bar is hopping, you'll hear it in your room, which is quite small. If you're in Granada, try one of the converted colonial options like Casa San Francisco, Hotel Alhambra, or Hotel Darío. _______________________ Bradenton, Fa.: We are planning a combined Costa Rica/Nicaragua summer trip for mid-July with two adults and our children ages 9 and 13. What are the must sees of Nicaragua? We are planning on roughly 7 days for each country. Would you suggest San Juan del Sur of Pochomil for some beach relaxing? So far we are thinking of Granada, Masya, Mombicho volcano, Las Isletas. Planning on taking the tica bus across the border as of now. Would you advise against a car rental? We like to take advantage of public transportation. This will be our first Central America trip and want to remain safe but also do some exploring. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Joshua Berman: San Juan del Sur is much more friendly for foreign tourists than Pochomil, in terms of services and creature comforts, but Pochomil is closer to Managua and has a few fancy new hotels going up. One of my favorite rustic beach getaways is near Pochomil, called Los Cardones. All of your other ideas for destinations are excellent, really hard to go wrong--you can reach all of those places on day trips from Granada or one of the Pueblos Blancos. Do you fly back home from Managua? I would advise against renting a car. If you have a good guidebook, or a little bit of Spanish, you'll be able to figure out bus schedules and none of your destinations are too far from anything else. _______________________ Buffalo, N.Y.: I have read that Little Corn Island in Nicaragua has become unsafe due to violent crime. I read that some tourists were robbed by machete. Any improvement on this problem? Joshua Berman: There have been a handful of incidents of petty theft on Little Corn over the years, maybe one or two more serious crimes, but I haven't heard of any in a long while. I believe the island banded together and ran out the bad apples a few years ago, but always use common sense when in a foreign environment. Nicaragua's Atlantic Coast is, unfortunately, a part of the drug trafficking route between Colombia and the US, so there are occasional flare-ups of crime throughout the region related to this. Corn Islands are beautiful--enjoy! _______________________ St. Louis, Mo.: Where in Nicaragua is the best eco-tourist place that might look like Costa Rica 20 yrs. ago, with good food & reasonable prices, and without hoards of tourists? Travel time is Spring Break in March. My wife is a teacher, we are 60 yrs. old we will leave from STL for 1 week. Thanks in advance. Bill Joshua Berman: You'll find what you're looking for ANYWHERE in Nicaragua, especially if you head to points north, where foreign tourists are still few and far between. Look into Finca Esperanza Verde outside San Ramon, Matagalpa. March is the hottest time of year in lowland Nicaragua, and the climate is cooler up in them thar hills. Things are all still pretty rustic, by most North Americans' standards, which is what makes it so nice. Also look into retreats in Esteli's Tisey and Miraflor reserves. _______________________ Chicago, Ill.: My wife (33) and I (42) want to go to Nicaragua from Chicago over the holidays. What's the best 9 day itineary for Nicaragua if you like beaches and wildlife? Joshua Berman: For beaches and wildlife, you may choose to base yourself in San Juan del Sur--or if you're more adventurous, head up to the Pacific Northwest coast outside Leon. Find a great colonial hotel in Leon and do boat and wildlife tours of the coastal islands and nearby volcanoes. For a thorough rundown of Nicaragua's "must-sees" and a list of suggested itineraries, visit our Nicaragua Travel Planner which excerpts trip ideas from Moon Nicaragua. _______________________ Blacksburg, Va.: I want to visit Central America (including Nicaragua) next summer, but I know it's rainy season. Can I still have an enjoyable trip? I can travel anytime in June or July. I don't have an agenda, but I'll probably spend 3 or 4 weeks in the region. How will the rain affect sight-seeing? Is there any chance of having a sunny day for the beach? Thanks! Joshua Berman: That's one of my favorite times of year to be in Nicaragua. The weather is cooler, especially up in the northern mountain areas and it usually rains for short periods during the day or night ¿ sometimes longer. The old traveler's maxim is "there is no such thing as bad weather, only improper clothing." Just keep smiling and look for rainbows after the afternoon showers and yes, you will have an enjoyable trip. _______________________ Syosset, N.Y.: I know some folks who may be traveling to Nicaragua with a very young child--what do they need to know? Joshua Berman: Their child will be a local celebrity! Family is so important in Nicaraguan culture, and the presence of a baby or small child will immediately elevate you out of the normal Joe Tourist crowd as everyone wants to hold and cuddle your little munchkin who, in Nicaraguan Spanish, will be lovingly referred to as a "chiguin," "cipote," or "chamuca." Expect loud exclamations of "Que preciosa! Que lindisima! Que bonita!" As for safety, follow proper immunization protocols, protect the baby from mosquitoes and the sun, and have a great time. _______________________ Boston, Mass.: You are filled with knowledge! I spent a summer in Honduras a few years ago and had a trip leader who was very into Nica. You remind me of him. I am going on my honeymoon next summer. We are still trying to decide where to go. What is Nica like in the summer time? Joshua Berman: Nicaragua is nice and cool in the summer months, which make up the Central American "invierno" or wet season. This is one my favorite times of year--the hills are green, the nights are cool and "fresquito," and the dust is settled. There are many, many romantic adventures to be had. If you have time, you can study some Spanish, or just set out and find your own little love cabin in the cloud forest... Reserva Selva Negra is a classic retreat for couples, north of Matagalpa, or maybe you'd prefer the beach at Los Cardones. It'd be hard to go wrong. Congratulations! _______________________ Bradenton, Fla.: Thanks for your help with my previous question. Yes, we will fly from Ft. Lauderdale or Miamin to San Jose and then home from Managua to Florida. At first I was looking at Pohcomil as being "quieter" and less touristy but then realized it may be very crowded becuase it is so close to Mangua. We were thinking of basing ourselves in Granada and then ending the trip near the beach for some downtime. Is it possible to surf in San Juan. I have read Pochomil is great for surfing but lacking rental places. If you had the choice would you base in Granada or Pueblos Blancos? Would you include Omtepe as a must see also??? Joshua Berman: Ometepe is definitely a must-see but takes time, a few days minimum. Surf options much better in an around San Juan del Sur--also check out the surf camps around Popoyo, west of Tola. The vast majority of tourists to Nicaragua base in Granada, so there are many, many more hotel and restaurant and tour options than somewhere like San Marcos or Catarina, but if you'd like to experience small-town pueblo life, try one of these. _______________________ Joshua Berman: Thanks for your questions everybody! Again, Randy and I are always available to help with your trip concerns on the forum of our website GoToNicaragua.com where you'll find tips, news, suggested itineraries, and more. Be sure to pick up a copy of our books, Moon Nicaragua and Moon Living Abroad in Nicaragua (both with Avalon Travel Publishing), and keep an eye on my blog, The Tranquilo Traveler. Adios!

Trip Coach: October 9, 2007

Sean McLachlan: Hello everyone! I'm Sean McLachlan, author of Moon Handbooks London, which just came out a few months ago from Avalon Travel Publishing. I'm happy to be here and to see all your questions. There are quite a lot of them so I'm glad many of you sent them in early! Some questions are similar, so I might refer you to a previous answer. If you get a chance, drop by seanmclachlan.com to learn more about me. The website is still under construction, so apologies in advance for any broken links. Well, let's get started... _______________________ MO-town, Utah: My girlfriend is English, so we make it to the homeland about once a year. We've been to most of the main attractions in London, so what sites/locations/destinations/etc. would you suggest that would impress even an English(wo)man? Sean McLachlan: Depends on what she likes. If she enjoys Classical music, take her to a concert at the Handel House Museum. If she likes the outdoors, take her for a picnic at one of the larger parks. It's amazing how quickly you leave the city behind. Richmond Park is one of the biggest and even has its own herd of wild deer. The London Wetland Centre is an amazing marsh ecozone made from reclaimed industrial land. Both are a bit far from the center, though. Closer in but just as relaxing is The Regent's Park. A fascinating but often overlooked museum is the Old Operating Theatre, which makes a trip to a modern doctor seem relaxing by comparison. The good old days? Not if you were sick! Another great and often overlooked attraction is the ornate Victorian cemetery at Highgate, where famous people such as Karl Marx are buried. There's a beautiful collection of Chinese ceramics at the Percival David Foundation of Chinese Art. _______________________ New York, N.Y.: What's the weather like in late November? Dark and depressing all day as they say? Unbearably cold? Raining all the time? Or is it more like NY—cold, sunlight for at least a few hours, rain now and then? Thanks! Sean McLachlan: I won't lie to you; November can be pretty dreary in London. It gets cool (but rarely cold, usually in the 40s or 50s Fahrenheit), overcast, and it can rain for days on end. Snow and hail are rare, but would be a relief after the incessant rainfall. On the other hand, sometimes the clouds can break up and you'll be surprised by a mild, sunny day. Don't waste that time—get out and walk! But don't forget to always have an umbrella with you because the weather can change very quickly. You'll be on an island in the North Sea, after all. Luckily, and probably not coincidentally, most of London's best attractions are inside, so don't despair. _______________________ Washington, D.C.: I am going to London in mid-November with a history buff for three nights. He loves Roman history and military history. What do you consider "must-see's" for him, and what area of town do you recommend staying in? Sean McLachlan: The British Museum had an excellent section on Roman Britain, including the amazing Vindolanda Tablets—letters from a Roman fort that include military reports, requests for leave, even a birthday invitation! In the City (a section of central London around St. Paul's and the Tower of London that comprised Roman Londinium) you can see portions of the Roman Wall and the foundations of the Temple of Mithras. The Museum of London, also in the City, has some restored Roman rooms and a good view of a portion of the Roman wall, with a medieval wall built atop it. For military history buffs, a visit to the Imperial War Museum is an absolute must. There's everything from WWI tanks to modern spy equipment. The Trench Experience is especially harrowing. Another great sight is the Churchill Museum and Cabinet War Rooms, the underground bunkers from which Churchill planned the Battle of Britain and the Invasion of Normandy. It's been left just as it was and is very atmospheric. If you have the time, the Army Museum and the Guards Museum are both worth a look. Since you are pressed for time I would suggest seeing the British Museum, the Cabinet War Rooms, and the Imperial War Museum. It's best to stay in central London. The City will put you in old Londinium (although prices are high) or you can stay in Bloomsbury and be right next to the British Museum. Both neighborhoods will put you an easy walk or Tube ride from all the places I'm mentioning here, although the Imperial War Museum in Lambeth, south of the Thames, and a bit of a Tube ride from everywhere. You are fortunate to be going in November, because that's when England remembers its war dead. The Field of Remembrance, in the Westminster Abbey gardens, will open on Thursday, Nov. 8th. The Field is divided into different sections, each dedicated to a specific regiment or theater of war. Individuals are memorialized by small crosses decorated with red poppies. The Queen generally opens the Field, but to be there for the opening ceremony you have to be a member of a regiment or historical society. The general public gets in later that day. At the moment the Queen is scheduled to arrive at 10:45 a.m. I believe it opens to the general public an hour or so later, but of course the schedule may change between now and then. I highly suggest that you take your friend to see the Field of Remembrance. The sight of the entire garden covered in red poppies is like nothing he will have ever seen and is a truly moving experience. You'll also get a chance to mingle with veterans of various wars and hear their stories. I always try to go and plan to attend this year as a member of the Salonika Campaign Society. _______________________ Phoenix, Ariz.: What are the must see sights in London for a person who will be there for five days? Sean McLachlan: • National Gallery/Trafalgar Square/St. Martin-in-the-fields (all right next to one another to make one easy trip, although St. Martin is currently under renovation) • Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace • Houses of Parliament/Big Ben • Westminster Abbey • Thames Walk • St. Paul's Cathedral • Tower of London • British Museum • Harrods • One or more of the old, historic pubs like Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese at 145 Fleet St. in the City or The George at 77 Borough High St. in Southwark Of these, the most missable is the Changing of the Guard. While it's famous and makes for a nice spectacle, I think it's overrated and it's always crowded, making it hard to get a good spot unless you come quite early. For a great panoramic view of London, climb the 530 steps to the Golden Gallery at the top of the dome of St. Paul's. The London Eye, a giant Ferris Wheel on the South Bank of the Thames, is a popular attraction and actually gets you higher, but I prefer St. Paul's because for less money you get to see both the cathedral and a fine view. Since St. Paul's is right in the historic center of London, I think the view is actually better than atop the London Eye. I highly suggest walking along the Thames Path, either on the north or south bank of the river. On a nice day you can get lots of great pictures of the river with historic buildings in the background. It passes many important landmarks such as the Houses of Parliament and St. Paul's, so it's a scenic way to get around. Even if warm beer isn't your thing, I recommend a trip to a pub because some of them are 300 or more years old and pubs are a cornerstone of English culture. My book lists my favorites, chosen for atmosphere, good beer, historical interest, and lack of televisions. Two of the oldest are mentioned above. Tours of the Houses of Parliament are generally available only in August and September. Even though you won't be there long, it's best not to try and see everything on this list. Find some nice spot to sit back and people watch. Pubs are great for this! People tend to be very chatty at the actual bar, less so at the tables. _______________________ Fremont, Calif.: In April 2008, a friend and I are taking a taste of Europe type trip with Trafalgar. We are going to extend in London for a couple of days. I know that it is not much time, but what would you recommend as the "do not miss" sites, and would you recommend a couple of restuarants? We are both ladies in our late 50's with a broad enjoyment of food and sites. Sean McLachlan: For my top picks in London, see the question above from the person staying for five days. For a two-day stay, I suggest Westminster Abbey, Thames Walk (weather permitting), St. Paul's, Tower of London, and the British Museum. As for restaurants, that depends highly on what you like. Rules at 35 Maiden Lane has excellent but pricey meat dishes and is the oldest restaurant in London—they opened in 1798! If you're lucky they'll have fresh game from their estate in the Pennines. Tea at the exclusive Savoy hotel is quite an experience too, but also pricey. Afghan Kitchen at 35 Islington Green is cheap, filling, with no atmosphere, but excellent food you will have a hard time finding anywhere else. For some of the best fish and chips, go to the oldest chippery in town, the Rock and Sole Plaice, at 47 Endell St. I'll be making some other restaurant and site suggestions to other people, so skim through all the questions for some more ideas. _______________________ Murphy, N.C.: Hello, Sean. I need to find inexpensive airfare from London (Heathrow) to Paris (Chas. D'G) leaving London on November 24, 2007 and returning November 30, 2007. What suggestions can you offer? Most Sincerely, Connie Sean McLachlan: Connie, there are plenty of budget carriers flying from Heathrow to Paris. EasyJet, Ryanair, and bmi are good bets. There are plenty more. You might also want to try Eurostar, a train traveling from the center of London to the center of Paris. It's more expensive, but more convenient and since you won't have to get to/from the airport, the price may not be all that different. Shop around! _______________________ Gainesville, Fla.: My fiancee and I are backpacking through Europe over winter break and we'll be starting in London on December 16. We are both college students so its important for us to stay on a budget, especially in the more expensive cities like London. Can you recommend a hostel that has the best mix of location/price/quality? We've heard and read good things about Palmer's Lodge. Also, we'd love any affordable dining recommendations, we want to avoid the "touristy" places as much as possible. Finally, how would you recommend getting from London to Paris? Eurostar will cost nearly double a flight on EasyJet ($114 USD vs $59 USD, both final prices after taxes/fees) for the both of us although logistically it would be much easier. Sean McLachlan: Your best bet for cheap accommodation are youth hostels. You'll usually have to share a room with other backpackers, but you'll save lots of money. My favorites are the YHA Holland House in Holland Park, and the Astor Museum Inn right next to the British Museum at 27 Montague St. There are plenty of budget carriers flying from London to Paris. EasyJet, Ryanair, bmi are good bets. There are plenty more. Try to avoid flying out of Luton, since that's far from London and expensive to get to. You want Heathrow or Gatwick airports. Also factor in your travel cost/time to and from the airports. Since Eurostar takes you from city center to city center, it may not be much more expensive, and it will be more convenient. I have never stayed at Palmer's Lodge (too many hotels in London to cover them all!) but I make some more suggestions for cheap accommodation in reply to the other questions. For good dining options, also see the answers to other questions. Congratulations on your engagement! _______________________ Knoxville, Tenn.: I will be taking a cruise departing from Dover and arriving in London-Gatwick. What's the best (cheapest) way to travel? Sean McLachlan: I'm unclear as to where you are traveling. If you mean traveling to London from Gatwick airport, the cheapest way to travel is by bus, operated by National Express, which takes about 90 minutes to get into town. If you are in more of a hurry, the Thameslink train will get you to King's Cross or Victoria stations in well under an hour for only a few pounds more. _______________________ Brooklyn, N.Y.: My wife and I visit London every year in late November, usually on Thanksgiving weekend and have been doing so for over 10 years. During this time we've seen a real improvement in the quality of the food but we're also becoming keenly aware of how expensive dining has become. What hints do you have for saving a few quid on meals, especially dinners? Also, do you know any places that still offer the traditional Carvery experience in central London? Thanks! Sean McLachlan: If you don't mind greasing it up, there are plenty of good, cheap fish and chip places. The sandwich shops are healthier, and equally cheap. You can find them just about everywhere, especially anywhere where there are a lot of office buildings. The Café in the Crypt below St. Martin-in-the-Fields is good value for money if you don't mind eating next to gravestones. It was undergoing renovation two months ago, but should be open by the time you go. As for a good traditional carvery, it's hard to find anything cheap, but The Albert pub at 52 Victoria St. has a good one upstairs for £16.50 for three courses plus coffee. Also check out my responses regarding vegetarian dining (the next question) for information on cheap Brick Lane Indian cuisine. Skim through my responses to other questions for various other recommendations. Try Afghan Kitchen at 35 Islington Green and Food for Thought at 31 Neal St. _______________________ Seattle, Wash.: Hello. I'm wondering what suggestions you'd have for a vegetarian dining in London. Any tips or excellent veggie options? Sean McLachlan: Since you said vegetarian and not vegan, I assume you don't mind if your restaurant serves meat as well as veggie dishes. If this is the case, you're in luck. London is filled with excellent Asian (especially Indian) restaurants that serve lots of vegetarian options. They're everywhere, but the most famous center for Indian restaurants is Brick Lane, which has dozens of them. As you walk down the street, touts will come out offering all sorts of deals. You can haggle for more, too, like free beer or and extra 10% off. If you decide to go with one, make sure you make him repeat the deal to the waiter, and make sure the waiter goes through with the deal. Every time I've gone I've had to gently remind the waiter about what we agreed on, but I've always had a good meal too. Simply the best vegetarian restaurant I've been to is Food for Thought on 31 Neal St. I'm a meat lover but I go there every chance I get! The food is awesome and the place serves as a meeting place for vegetarians and vegans in London. Everyone sits at long tables so it's quite social. Ask the people sitting next to you and you'll get plenty more recommendations. _______________________ Fenwick Island, Del.: A girlfriend and I are planning on doing a girl's week in London. What neighborhood is a good central location to see the sights, is safe, and also fun? We are in our 50's and have never been there before. -Barbara Sean McLachlan: This depends on what you want. Here's a breakdown of the nicer central neighborhoods and the general cost of hotels. • Westminster and Victoria: Close to the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, St. James's Park, Buckingham Palace, and the travel hub of Victoria Station. Tends to be pricey. • Mayfair: Good shopping district. Pricey. • Covent Garden/West End/Soho: Great for nightlife, theater, and dining. A whole range of prices. • Bloomsbury: Close to the British Museum. Quiet neighborhood after dark. Wide range of prices. • Chelsea/Kensington/Knightsbridge: Great shopping and good dining. Pricey. • Notting Hill: Great shopping and dining. Pricey. • The City: the oldest neighborhood in London with lots to see. Quiet and safe at night. Pricey. • I would avoid Southwark and Piccadilly. They are the least safe neighborhoods, although they are safer than most American cities! _______________________ Orinda, Calif.: We are a family of 4 (with 2 young girls ages 8 and 9) traveling to London next summer. We have noticed that most British hotels only sleep a maximum of 3 per room. Do you have any recommendations for us at a reasonable rate? Thanks for your time! Sean McLachlan: If you don't mind staying at a youth hostel, many have four-person rooms you can hire out. That way you'll have your own room, although in most cases you'll have to share a bathroom. Your kids may love the raucous, mostly twenty-something atmosphere, or they might hate it. Some youth hostels don't allow young children, however, so it's best to check ahead. You could also try the Merlyn Court Hotel, actually a bed and breakfast, which has quads. It's near Earl's Court Tube station, which is convenient for getting around, and there are lots of shops and restaurants nearby. Kensington Gardens is close too. They offer basic but decent accommodation. _______________________ Saint Augustine, Fla.: We'll be in London from 31 December to 5 January. We'd like to attend the theater at least twice. We'll we have a good chance of getting tickets then for top shows at the Leicester Square discount ticket booth—or should we plan on ordering ahead of time to assure that we get the shows we want to see? Sean McLachlan: I'm glad you mentioned the Leicester Square TKTS booth, because that is the only one run by the Society of London Theatre, the industry's marketing organization. It's better to avoid the many other "half price" ticket booths in town because they can be a bit deceptive in what they offer. You can end up paying more than you think for bad seats. I'm not saying they're all dishonest, but it's impossible to tell the good from the bad. Stick to Leicester Square. The TKTS booth can generally get you good seats, but it's based on availability, of course. I suggest going on your very first day so you can book as far in advance as possible. That way you'll have more options. The website officiallondontheatre.co.uk has information on what's on and you can buy (full price) tickets online. I have a long essay on getting cheap tickets on page 146 of the book. _______________________ Chicago, Ill.: Is there a public transportation pass that covers both the Tube and buses? If so, what is it called and where can one buy it? We'll be there January 7 to January 12. Thanks for your help. Sean McLachlan: What you want is the Oyster Card, a refillable smart card. Check it out at oystercard.com. Try to figure out how much travel you will do beforehand and only put that amount on. You can order an Oyster Card beforehand with your credit card from the website. Be sure to read all the information, too much to repeat here, before ordering. Oyster Cards are convenient, the balance never expires, and they can be used on all public transport. Fares are cheaper with an Oyster Card so most Londoners have one. I highly suggest anybody staying for long periods of time get one. You can also get unlimited 7-day and 3-day passes, probably less of a deal since you will be there five days, and you have to use them a lot to actually save money. If you buy one, get it for Zones 1 and 2. You probably won't go further out from the center than that. _______________________ Brooklyn, N.Y.: Hi! My husband (33 yrs) and I (29 yrs) are traveling to London and Paris over Christmas and New Years this year—London 12/24 to 12/28 and Paris 12/28 to 1/1. I think we'll be able to entertain ourselves for the Paris leg of our trip but I am a little worried about what we would be able to do/see in London 12/25 and 12/26 which are major holidays in the UK. I'm assuming lots of sights and restaurants/bars might be closed. Any suggestions? We will be staying at the Intercontinental Park Lane. Any tips (on Paris too!!!) would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Melissa Sean McLachlan: Melissa, hmmm&problem. I believe the great department store Harrod's will be open, and that's a sight in itself. They pride themselves on selling literally everything legal and have vast departments for anything you can think of. The Food Hall is great when you get hungry. The Christmas displays are amazing even if it's closed. Actually, that whole neighborhood is filled with shops and will be lit up and have countless window displays. It's the city's most popular shopping area so I'm sure some shops will be open for last-minute buyers. Of course, the churches such as Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's will be having choral masses. The acoustics are fantastic and the interiors are beautiful. All churches should be open on these days, and central London, especially the neighborhood called The City, is filled with historic churches, some dating back to the Middle Ages. While it may be a bit cold, try a walk on the Thames Path for great views of the river and historic buildings. One thing you shouldn't miss is the giant Christmas tree at Trafalgar Square. The adjoining Oxford Street is garlanded with thousands of lights, so it's best to go at night. You might want to check the websites of major sites such as the British Museum. Sometimes they have special holiday hours, although Christmas is the one most of them close for. _______________________ West Palm: Hi Sean, I will have an entire "free" day in London on October 19th. I've done all the usual site-seeing. Any suggestions? How about a day trip to Battle? Thanks, Marie Sean McLachlan: Marie, if you mean the town of Battle in East Sussex, I'm afraid I've never been there. So many destinations, so little time! Check out battle-sussex.co.uk for more information. An editor of mine who lives in the countryside nearby says the Battle of Hastings site isn't actually that interesting. For a great small English town, I recommend a daytrip to St. Albans, which I cover in my book. You can get more information at stalbans.gov.uk. For some more off the beaten path ideas, check out the answer I give to the question about taking an Englishwoman around London. _______________________ Centereach, N.Y.: We plan to be staying in the Kensington area and want to find a tour to see Stonehenge. Any help would be appreciated, thanks. Ed Sean McLachlan: Ed, there are innumerable bus tours that take you to Stonehenge. You'll see them advertised all over town and in your hotel lobby too. I can't really recommend one as being much better than another, but here are some questions to ask: 1. Where else do they take you? Check if the trip includes Avebury (another megalithic site and highly recommended), West Kennet Long Barrow (also good) or Silbury Hill (right next to West Kennet but not as interesting). 2. How long do you stay at Stonehenge? 3. Do they stop at a particular restaurant for lunch? It's better if they don't, because it will usually be mediocre and overpriced. It's better if they just drop you in Avebury or some other town and let you pick a place yourself. 4. Do they pick you up and drop you off at your hotel? 5. How many people per tour? The smaller the better, of course. The commentary on bus tours is generally rather superficial, but I'm picky because I used to be an archaeologist. Read up on the site beforehand. _______________________ Rancho Cucamonga, Calif.: Hello, next year we travel to England with senior citizen friends who have never been there before. We will stay in London, but want to make one overnight train trip to the country side. What would you suggest to get the best experience for our time and money? Sean McLachlan: Tough question because all the countryside is beautiful in England, assuming it isn't raining! If you want to see some of the best, and you don't mind a long train trip, I recommend the Lake District. The Lake District is incredibly lovely, especially in spring or summer, and has been a favorite attraction since the days of Jane Austin. The White Cliffs of Dover, in the opposite direction, is just as lovely (if a bit windy) and much closer to London. You can actually do that in a daytrip. If you want something more rugged go further north to the Peak District, or if you really want to get adventurous, go to the Orkney Islands north of Scotland. These last two are a bit far and more for serious hikers, however. Both regions have some stunning, if rather barren, landscapes. Trains across England can be quite expensive, but the price goes down considerably the earlier you book. Do NOT wait until the last minute to book a train, or you will blow your budget! Check out nationalrail.co.uk for booking and some travel tips and destination guides. For some nice countryside in London, try Richmond Park, a giant park with wild areas, deer, and lots of birds. _______________________ Anonymous: Hey, Sean. My husband and I (both 36) are arriving in Heathrow and staying in London for a couple days in November. We will have time to explore, shop and hang out 11/7 and 11/8, departing on 11/9. We love indie music and fashion and want to see the "best of" historical sites, as it's his first time there. First, given that we will be coming straight to the hotel from Heathrow and want to be central for our travels, what location would be best for our hotel? (If you can name an inn that runs around $150 USD, with bath included [en suite], that would be ideal.) Have you ever stayed at the Georgian House? I would appreciate some realistic day/night itineraries that we could follow by foot and by Tube, including spots on the west and east end. Thank you! Sean McLachlan: For a two day tour of London, see the other question on this topic. My book has a detailed two-day walking tour of London that runs a couple of pages of description. If you like indie music, you should check out Berwick St. just north of Broadwick St. There are more than a dozen shops crammed with vintage vinyl and used CDs, including a lot of European titles you'd have a hard time finding in the U.S. My favorite is Reckless Records at number 26 selling rock, pop, reggae, jazz, folk, experimental, and classical. South of the intersection with Broadwick St., the record shops end and the porn shops begin. Avoid at night! Just to the east at 7 Broadwick St., in a nicer section away from the porn shops, is Sounds of the Universe, a popular store for roots, reggae, house, break beat, hip-hop, Latin, postpunk, African, funk, northern soul and smatterings of just about everything else. It's mostly CDs but there's lots of vinyl if you're into DJing. My vote for the best music store in London! I'm not much into fashion, but there are plenty of clothing shops in Camden Town. For vintage clothing go to Portobello Road. The great thing about Heathrow is that it has its own Tube station, so you can hop on the Tube and get to just about any neighborhood. Since you are pressed for time, I suggest staying in Covent Garden, the West End or Soho. This cluster of neighborhoods has great nightlife, theater, and dining. You'll be close to a lot of the major sites too. I have never stayed at the Georgian (there are innumerable hotels in London!) but for hotels I have stayed in, there's nothing in your price range in the area I mention that isn't a youth hostel or requires you to share a bathroom. For a tad more you can stay at the Fielding Hotel. It's decent, but with a great location. There's no elevator, however. Sadly, you'll be hard pressed to find a nice en suite room in a central location for $150. _______________________ Voorhees, N.J.: Any ideas on beating the high cost of London hotels? Sean McLachlan: Short answer: No, London is horribly expensive. Long answer: If you don't mind sharing your room, youth hostels aren't just for youth anymore. Some are quite clean and central, and have a safe so you don't have to trust your valuables to the kindness of strangers. Also, my book lists hotels for all budgets, although the cheaper ones often have small rooms and sometimes shared bathrooms. Even the most central neighborhoods, however, have some remarkably low-priced hotels. Remember, though, that you won't get a big room and all the amenities you're used to in a decently priced American motel. Think small. Think basic. It's OK, you probably won't be spending much time in your room anyway. _______________________ Los Alamitos, Calif.: Hello. I will be spending the week of February 10th in London with my boyfriend from Northern England. We have been a few times before, but neither of us know London well. As Valentine's Day will fall in the middle of our trip, I was wondering if you had any unique suggestions for romantic places/ways to celebrate? Thank you so much! Sean McLachlan: Well, the weather might not cooperate, but London can be a surprisingly romantic place. See the question above about where to take an Englishwoman for some good date ideas, especially the picnic in the park. As for romantic spots, a fine restaurant never fails. But that's not terribly unique. The London Eye, which I mention in response to other questions, offers champagne flights, which would be a pricey but definitely unique experience. A good chilly date place is the Absolut Ice Bar at 31-33 Heddon St., belowzerolondon.com. Everything is sculpted out of ice, including your glass. Thermal caps are handed out on entry. _______________________ Tucson, Ariz.: I will be arriving Gatwick Airport on Sunday morning, Nov.18 with my 2 daughters and 2 grand kids [ages 13 and 10]. We have a reservation at a hotel close to Victoria Station. What is the best—and cheapest—way to reach our hotel? The hotel is probably far enough to not be able to walk to, but close enough that taxi drivers would be upset because the fare would be low. That is 5 people, plus baggage. Sean McLachlan: How close is close? You might be able to walk it, but with luggage and kids in tow (not to mention jetlag) that might not be advisable. Contact your hotel and ask what bus line they are on. That might be the best way, but make sure you get clear instructions as to which bus you need to get on, and don't be afraid to ask the driver for help. They're used to it! There's a Tube (subway) station at Victoria, so ask your hotel if they're near a station, although I have a feeling the bus will be easier. Also, London taxis are accustomed to short runs, so you might want to ask if they'll take you. Make sure only to take licensed black cabs. They are the only cabs allowed to prowl the streets for fares. You can hire other cab companies by calling them, but NEVER take an unlicensed cab you find on the street. They will often rip you off or worse. The Black Cabs (which aren't always black, by the way, although they all have the same Fifties design) carry five or six people with room for luggage. The cab license is white and should show clearly on the back of the car. _______________________ Roswell, Ga.: Bringing my 5-year-old daughter to London to see her best friend who recently moved there. It will also be my first trip. How do we make the most out this trip and plan to do, see and experience things for both child and parent? Sean McLachlan: As parents, you and I both know kids like familiarity. You might want to show her pictures of famous London sights beforehand to get her interested. Kids really like the London Eye, basically a giant Ferris Wheel that had "pods" instead of seats. You can stand and move around quite comfortably as the ride takes you high above the Thames for a great view of London. The lines are horrible, so reserve ahead of time at londoneye.com. A cruise on the Thames may be fun for her, and you can get package deals through their website. She might also like the London Zoo. It's not terribly different than other zoos, but it's still a good one and there's a petting zoo. The Regent's Park nearby can be used to burn off some of her energy. The famous Harrods department store, harrods.com, has a good toy section as well as lots of other interesting sections and a big Food Court, and Hamleys, hamleys.com, is a huge toy store. _______________________ Studio City, Calif.: We'll be in London March '08. Can you recommend affordable accomodations. We'd like to be near Harrod's however are open to other locations. Thank you. Anne Sean McLachlan: Anne, getting a cheap accommodation in that area without staying in a youth hostel is tough. One good place is the Merlyn Court Hotel, actually a bed and breakfast. It's close to Earl's Court Tube station and while it's a mile to Harrod's, the shopping district starts way before that. You can also take a bus that will get you there quickly. It's also close to Kensington Gardens. _______________________ Rock Island, Ill.: For connecting international passengers, Heathrow (LHR) has long been a disaster of an airport, but how does LHR get away with this policy of limiting passengers to one carry-on, no matter what the second piece is, when they can get aboard their flight from the U.S. (or anywhere else) with a carry-on and a small personal item like a purse or briefcase? Is this likely to change? (In May, the security guard would not allow ANY second piece, no matter how small. What should we do, throw away a camera or a purse when we're continuing on to Frankfurt?) Sean McLachlan: Because London has had a more recent terrorist attack than the United States, and their security services have foiled several others (thanks to tipoffs from moderate Muslims who want the fundamentalists out of their community), the security situation at Heathrow and other UK airports is unlikely to change anytime soon. It's a pain, but it's their country and they'll do what they think best in order to protect it. Every country makes its own rules, in addition to a minimum standard agreed on internationally. Two things you can do is make sure everyone in your party has the largest carry-on bag possible, and have a big coat with lots of pockets you can stuff with essentials! _______________________ Carmichael, Calif.: What is the best way to obtain tickets to the 2008 Chelsea Flower/Garden show? Approximately what is the cost? Thanks much. Sean McLachlan: You can find them online at: http://rhs.org.uk/whatson/events/chelsea2008.htm. Costs vary and are listed on the site. Please note that you must book in advance. You can't buy tickets at the gate. It's an amazing sight so make sure to bring your camera. _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: What do you think is the best area in London for a "home base" when staying with kids (ages 10 & 13)? Sean McLachlan: See my answers above about recommended two-day sights and neighborhoods. Any central neighborhood is reasonably safe. Make sure you stay near public transport to avoid long walks and whining. The one really central neighborhood I'd avoid is Piccadilly (too crowded and noisy). Southwark gets seedier the further you get from the river, so you want to avoid that too. London is far safer than most American cities, but can get pretty rowdy on Friday and Saturday night. If you're out late (which you probably won't be considering the age of your kids) you'll see lots of public drunkenness, people peeing on the street, and the occasional fight. Not something you want your kids to see, although it might give them some lessons on the problems alcohol can lead to. :-) _______________________ Rochester, Minn.: How does one get an egg, perhaps two, over easy in London without creating a national emergency? Sean McLachlan: Over easy is not something that's really known in England. You'll probably have to give instructions. I heartily recommend a full English breakfast, complete with eggs, beans on toast, bacon, hash browns, and mushrooms. You can easily skip lunch. These breakfasts are available cheap in many cafes and sandwich shops, and are often sold throughout the day. Good value for money. _______________________ Port St Lucie, Fla.: What is the least expensive way to get from central London to Southampton on Monday, November 5th? Sean McLachlan: The cheapest mode of travel is by bus, nationalexpress.com. _______________________ Sacramento, Calif.: I am going to London for the first time from Nov 20 to Nov 27. What will the weather be like? I purchased the 4-day Heritage Pass. What are your recommendations for some must-see locations? Is it a good idea to purchase an Oyster card to cover my day-to-day travels around London? Sean McLachlan: See my answer to the other Oyster Card query above. Since you will be staying exactly a week you might want to consider a 7 day travelcard instead. This is only a cheaper option if you plan to use a lot of public transport. Generally the Oyster Card is cheaper, but you'll have to try and figure out how much you'll use it in order to put the right amount on it. You can always top it up and the counter of any major Tube or bus station. _______________________ Sean McLachlan: Well, it's been fun. Thanks for all your interesting questions. There are a few I didn't have time to get to, but those were generally covered in the answers to other questions, so scroll through the rest of the chat and you'll probably find what you need. There's lots more information in my book, Moon Handbooks London, published by Avalon Travel Publishing. It was lots of fun to write and I'm back at it again in the spring for the next edition. Feel free to visit me online at my (still under construction) website at seanmclachlan.com. Happy travels! Sean

True Stories

Next Prize: All-Inclusive Jamaica The best response that we receive between November 1 and November 30, 2007, wins a four-night trip for two to Jamaica from Air Jamaica (800/523-5585, airjamaica.com), the Holiday Inn SunSpree Resort (800/465-4329, montegobayjam.sunspreeresorts.com), and the Jamaica Tourist Board (800/233-4582, visitjamaica.com). The prize includes round-trip air from the Air Jamaica gateway closest to the winner's home and four nights at the all-inclusive Holiday Inn SunSpree Resort in Montego Bay. How to Enter Send your story to: TrueStories@BudgetTravel.com or True Stories, Budget Travel, 530 Seventh Ave., New York, NY 10018. To view the full contest guidelines, visit BudgetTravel.com/truestories. This Month's Winner! The winner of this month's contest is Lucy Zamary of North Lima, Ohio. Her prize: a seven-night Caribbean cruise from Royal Caribbean International. In Rome, my son was entertained by a boy playing the violin in Campo de' Fiori. Rather than finish his dinner, he joined the violinist, dancing happily in front of him. As a joke, my husband put a hat near the boys. Onlookers were so entertained that they began to drop euros into the hat. My son earned more than €20 during his 20 minutes of dancing! We gave the money to the young violinist and treated both of the kids to gelato. Always a Bridesmaid... My dream wedding began on the deck of a Windjammer ship off the coast of Nevis. I was ready, complete with flowers in my hair, but also apprehensive since I had no maid of honor. Ready to go it alone, I walked down the deck--only to spot a hysterical surprise. Next to my fiancé was a lovely attendant--the fun-loving captain, in a yellow silk dress. My fiancé had convinced him to join our wedding. My bouquet was a perfect match for his dress! Mary Falcon Flores, Las Cruces, N.M. Making Out With the Thing Utah's Arches National Park is full of really incredible sights, so I was confused when my husband asked me to stop along a hiking trail, turn my head, and stick out my tongue. I soon realized why--the rock next to us had its "tongue" sticking out too! Allison Castano, Westminster, Colo. Problem Solved My sister and I were cruising on the Mexican Riviera when I mentioned that I could use a new hairstyle. Not knowing what I wanted, I started looking at other women on board. Almost immediately I spotted a lady with the perfect hairdo. The final day of the cruise, I approached her, and I told her how much I liked her hair. Her companions seemed to be stifling laughter, but I gushed on. "Is it easy to maintain?" I asked. "Do you have a natural curl?" Very gently she smiled and said, "Honey, it's a wig." Maggie Zeibak, San Clemente, Calif. But if He Cuts It Off, How's He Going to Return the Coat? My husband, Ken, is a construction worker with few reasons to wear a suit. Before our Caribbean cruise, he bought a new one for formal night. It was a wonderful cruise made even better by friends we made on board. They had a similar sense of humor and especially enjoyed our Jeff Foxworthy–type jokes (as in, "You might be a redneck if..."). On formal night, one of our new friends said, "I got one! You might be a redneck if you buy a sport coat for your cruise and forget to take off the tag!" Sure enough, a big tag saying 42 SHORT was still on Ken's sleeve. Kim Kelly, Signal Mountain, Tenn. Prize Report Last December, Danette Oein won a vacation rental courtesy of Rentalo.com, for her story about a nude bicyclist in San Francisco. She recently returned from Reykjavik, Iceland, where she spent five nights. "The apartment was perfect: great size, immaculately clean, centrally located," she says. "My friend and I visited the Blue Lagoon, rode Icelandic horses, and saw amazing natural sites such as volcanoes and waterfalls."