Secrets of Hawaii's Big Island!

By Matt Jaffe
April 9, 2012
DreamTrips_Hawaii_VocanoesNationalPark_Lava
Cecoffman / Dreamstime.com
The Big Island offers amazing adventures, including Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, where you can walk on a volcano!


It's two hours before sunrise in Hawaii's Volcanoes National Park (808/985-6000, nps.gov/havo, entrance fee $10 per vehicle). The winds are gusting, and stars fill a rare cloudless sky. For a place that's all about heat and fire, Kilauea Volcano is surprisingly cold—and nobody comes to Hawaii for the cold. But the blackness of the night is the best time to experience one of the world's most active volcanoes. A column of gas, steam, and ash pours out of Halemaumau, the caldera's largest crater. The red-and-orange glow from Halemaumau's lava lake reflects off the plume, and, as the wind ebbs, you can hear the moan of molten lava and boulders roiling inside the crater. According to Hawaiian legend, Pele, the volcano goddess, lives in Halemaumau. Alone in the darkness—half-awake and caught somewhere between dreams and the plume's hypnotizing dance—it's easy to feel her power. She seems a bit restless, too.s

Kilauea doesn't really look much like a world-class volcano, either. At a mere 4,000 or so feet above sea level, it is less than a third the size of the Big Island's fraternal twin volcanoes, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. It comes off as a bit wan compared with the stately, conical profiles of Mt. Fuji and Vesuvius. But for sheer drama, Kilauea stands above all other volcanoes. "There's a sense of the unknown: It could shut off tomorrow, or something much more dramatic could happen," says Andrea Kaawaloa-Okita, a Hawaii Volcanoes National Park ranger for the past 17 years. "It's this open book, and the story has yet to be written. Tutu Pele is saying, 'I'm still here. This is your little reminder. But I'm going to leave you hanging.'"

Tutu is a Hawaiian term of endearment, which might seem odd considering Kaawaloa-Okita's experience. Her family has lived in Kalapana, a nearby historic village, for five generations. As a young girl, she woke up to the sound of Pele's fire fountains and was lulled to sleep by them at night.

But the 1983 eruption was a slow-motion disaster. The flows kept coming, closer and closer. There were evacuations, and many of Kaawaloa-Okita's relatives lost their homes. For her, the grief for the loss of ohana ("family") and the scattering of her kin was greater than the sadness she felt as the lava buried her home. "We always knew that Tutu Pele could reclaim what is hers," she says.

Looking back, Kaawaloa-Okita sees a certain inevitability in her decision to work at the park (she's the third generation to do so in her family) and become a geologist. She speaks of fate and the curiosity that came with growing up with lava all around her. What is more surprising is that she has moved back to Kalapana, even as lava continues to flow from Pu'u 'O'o. "It's what I know to be home," she says.

In a way, Kaawaloa-Okita's journey gets at the heart of Kilauea's essence. The volcano is more about renewal than devastation. Life finds a way here, whether in the rain forests filled with crimson 'apapane and 'i'iwi birds or along the lava itself, where nene, the world's rarest goose (2,000 exist), find 'ohelo berries to feed on. Kilauea has been called the Drive-In Volcano because of its easy access, and the park itself is suffused with trails. But when Halemaumau began erupting full force in 2008—its first significant, ongoing eruption since 1924—the Park Service closed the trail across the caldera. Just to the east, however, you can still hike across the floor of a crater at Kilauea Iki, where a 1959 eruption sent fountains of lava 1,900 feet into the sky.

The trail begins high above the crater and descends through native rain forest, a sliver of ancient Hawaii. Purple shoots of uluhe ferns, their unfurled fronds coiled in tight spirals, poke up from the understory, and the 'apapane birds harmonize in a sweet chorus heard nowhere outside Hawaii. The forest evolved largely in isolation from the rest of the world, and its lack of major predators (and surprisingly few bugs) gives it an Eden-like feel—only without the snakes.

The transition from paradise to Hades is abrupt as the trail drops into the crater. It feels like something out of myth: A cracked, barren landscape of black lava made even creepier by a veil of fog. Steam rises from vents and fissures and a lake of magma bubbles just a few hundred feet beneath the crater floor. Get down on your knees to take a photo and the lava's jagged edges feel as sharp as glass.

But like Kaawaloa-Okita returning to her ancestral village, the rain forest is slowly reclaiming the crater. Scrubby 'ohi'a, a fraction of the size of their tree-size rain-forest brethren, are pioneering the rock. Colonizing ferns trace zigzag patterns of green along cracks where enough soil and nutrients have settled for them to take root. Fifty years ago, temperatures in the crater reached 2,200 degrees. But someday, the 'apapane may sing here, too.

Because visitors spendan average of only six hours in the park, it's difficult for them to imagine living on an active volcano. Of course, Hawaiians have been doing just that for centuries. Not far from the end of Chain of Craters Road, a trail leads to the Pu'u Loa Petroglyphs, which feature more than 20,000 carvings of human forms and boats, and, most unusually, piko holes, once used to hold the freshly cut umbilical cords of newborns.

Today's population is centered on Volcano Village, the park's gateway community. Houses and cottages are tucked so deeply among the trees that residents sometimes see one another only at the Sunday Farmers' Market—a tropical cornucopia of mango, papaya, and dragon fruit (19-4030 Wright Rd., thecoopercenter.org, Thai chicken soup $5 a bowl, Sundays 6:30–10 A.M.).

Idyllic, perhaps, but with more than 100 inches of rain a year, periodic warnings about volcanic smog (known as "vog"), frequent small earthquakes, and an erupting volcano down the road, it's a town that comes with more than the usual homeowner headaches.

The village's demographics reflect its unique circumstances. There are scientists, park workers, New Agers, and an intrepid community of artists: painters, woodworkers, and printmakers. Many artists display works at the Volcano Art Center Gallery, located in an 1877 structure built as the successor to the thatch inn where Twain stayed (Crater Rim Dr., Volcano, volcanoartcenter.org, woodblock prints by printmaker-painter Dietrich Varez starting at $5).

When ceramist and Memphis native Tim Freeman visited the volcano in 1991, the clouds parted just in time for a solar eclipse over Halemaumau. The crater's steam plumes suddenly stopped drifting sideways and rose in columns straight into the sky. "This is a magical place," he says. "It has moved me deeply for years."

Freeman settled in Volcano Village in 2001 and now teaches philosophy at the University of Hawaii-Hilo. His vase-like works evoke the volcano itself. The rims mimic the volcano's contours, and he colors the round interior base a lava-like reddish orange. He fires his pieces in underground pits, using wood from faya trees and other invasive species he's cleared from the forest. "I'm trying to express my appreciation for living here and the almost pristine character of the area," he says. "It gives a sense of the fragility of nature. I'm blown away by the beauty of this place."

The notion of a fragile beauty is at the heart of the Kilauea experience. Even a single overnight can reveal its ephemeral ways. As darkness comes to Volcano Rainforest Retreat a few miles from the park, drizzle brushes the canopy of ferns and mist drifts through the trees. Buddha statues and the ceramic masks of Volcano Village artist Ira Ono add to an aura of the sacred and whimsical.

Around midnight, thunder rocks the forest as a storm slams into Kilauea, then just as abruptly ends an hour before sunrise. Along the rim of Kilauea Caldera, Halemaumau puffs away as two nene suddenly wing overhead. Thirty miles in the distance and 10,000 feet above Kilauea, Mauna Kea rises over the rain forest. Free of clouds, its summit is covered with snow washed by the pinks and golds of dawn. "The face of Kilauea is always changing," Kaawaloa-Okita says. "There are moments in time that cannot be re-created. That's part of the marvel. And you want to give yourself every opportunity to experience those marvels."

 

SEE MORE FROM BUDGET TRAVEL:

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10 Most Precious Places on Earth

30 Hotel Chains Every Traveler Should Know

 

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Tax Refund = Vacation! 7 Amazing Trips That You Can Afford Right Now

There's no need to fear tax season, especially since tax refund checks average some $3,000. Financial planners may tell you to save it for a rainy day, but, not surprisingly, we say there's no better use for a windfall than a vacation. We are always on the lookout for great travel deals, so we priced out three nights' hotel for two people (and one for a family of four), including transportation and a budget of $125 per person for meals, plus activities from horseback riding tours to surf lessons (all prices were valid at time of writing, but are subject to change). Whether you want to take the family on a national park adventure or go on a romantic vacation to a European capital, we've outlined seven vacations that fit the budget and still leave enough in the bank to appease your accountant. SEE THE TRIPS    West Virginia: $818 per couple West Virginia's mountainous eastern counties have a rustic, road-less-travelled appeal. Choose from dozens of scenic routes that ply the countryside with covered bridges, Civil War battlefields, and panoramic lookouts. The 43-mile Highland Scenic Highway runs entirely through the Monongahela National Forest, one of the most ecologically diverse in the country, with 75 different species of trees and more than 225 different types of birds. But watching the wilderness out the car window isn't any fun. Take a two-hour horseback ride through the New River Gorge, which is a new breeding spot for Bald Eagles (800/787-3982, aceraft.com, $69 per person). Where to stay: Greenbrier County's Lewisburg (voted the Coolest Small Town of 2011!) is an oasis of Appalachian culture and Washington Street, the main thoroughfare, hums with cafes and antique shops. Soak up some local history by staying at the General Lewis Inn, a genteel inn situated on the site of an 1862 Civil War battlefield (301 East Washington St., 800/628-4454, generallewisinn.com, from $110). The audit: Gas ($100)* + 3 nights hotel (from $330) + horseback riding ($138 for two) + meals ($250) = $818 per couple.*Mileage based on driving round trip from Pittsburgh to Lewisburg.   Folly Beach, South Carolina: $947 per couple  The self-described "Edge of America" has loads of down-home Southern charm, with a lively fishing pier, string of crab shacks, and plenty of room to stretch out along six miles of sand. Folly is a barrier island surrounded by waters populated with wildlife including loggerhead sea turtles to bottlenose dolphins. Get up close and personal on a kayak—Flipper Finders is the only full-service outfit in town, with a popular sunset tour amongst Folly's estuaries (843/588-0019, flipperfinders.com, $45 per person). You can't spend time here without having at least one seafood-centric meal: The Crab Shack is everything you want in a local joint: platters of fried seafood, buckets of large Carolina shrimp, and baskets of hush puppies (26 Center St., 843/588-3080, crabshacks.com). Life unfolds at a pleasingly slower pace here; if you need some "big city action," Charleston is a short 15-minute drive away. Where to Stay: Housed in a restored bungalow, Beachside Bed and Breakfast's colorful accommodations are anything but stuffy: Its "70s Room" even features an egg tub shower and an original 8-track player (107 E Erie Ave., 843/633-0184, follybeachsidebb.com, from $169). The audit: Gas ($100)* + 3 nights hotel ($507) + kayak tour ($90 for two) + meals ($250) = $947 per couple*Mileage based on driving round trip from Atlanta to Folly Beach.   Portland, Oregon: $1,145 per couple There's no denying the city itself has broad appeal: cuisine, culture (don't miss Portland Art Museum's Rothko exhibit through late May 2012), and our favorite: no sales tax. Spring is a great time to visit the Rose City, when the extensive network of gardens is in bloom. At Lan Su Chinese Garden, you'll find Oriental classics like hibiscus and silk trees (lansugarden.org, $9.50). The Portland Japanese Garden, with its pagodas and stone lanterns as well as cherry blossoms and bonsai, is considered the most authentic outside of Japan (japanesegarden.com, $9.50). Refuel at one of several food trucks downtown: Nong's Khao Man Gai is famous for its poached chicken with soybean, garlic, ginger and chile (S.W. 10th and Alder, from $6.50). And you can't come to the Pacific Northwest without sampling the fruits of the local vineyards. Locals recommend Noble Rot, a fourth-floor wine bar where you can swirl delicate, homegrown Pinots whose cult status have become legend (1111 E Burnside St., 503/233-1999, noblerotpdx.com, wines flights from $12). Where to stay: Save big on transportation by booking a hotel along Portland's Max rail line. Hotel Deluxe is located just two blocks from the Jeld-Wen Field station, and is full of Hollywood-style glamour like black and white photos and regency furniture (729 SW 15th Ave., 503/219-2094, hoteldeluxeportland.com, from $149). The audit: Airfare (from $356)* + 3 nights hotel (from $447) + gardens entry ($38 for two) + meals ($250) + wine flight ($24 for two) + transportation ($30 for three days of Max passes for two) = $1,145 per couple*Based on round-trip airfare from Oakland to Portland for two people.   North Coast, Dominican Republic: $1,334 per couple There are still plenty of beaches along the Dominican Republic's North Coast where you can escape the masses. The trick is to fly into quieter Puerto Plata. Ditch the all-inclusive scene west of the airport and head east toward Cabarete, a coastal town that still retains a (somewhat) local feel. Dip your toes into Kite Beach, or take a day trip to Playa Grande, a scenic stretch of white sand that won't stay undeveloped for long. Try something new and book a surfing lesson—a two-and-a-half-hour course on Playa Encuentro is a great way to test the waters. Where to Stay: Go around the rocky bend just east of the main town to the deco La Punta Apartments. Even with a prime oceanside location, swimming pool, and large terrace, the rooms are a steal (011-809/571-0897, lapuntacabarete.com, from $64). The audit: Airfare (from $762)* + 3 nights hotel (from $192) + surf lessons ($80 for two) + meals ($250) + transportation ($50 for cab fare) = $1,334 per couple *Based on round-trip airfare from New York City to Puerto Plata for two people.   Amsterdam: $1,942 per couple The Dutch capital is more affordable than other major Western European cities like Paris and London, and you can fly nonstop from 13 North American gateways. Ask any local and they will tell you that the Renaissance architecture and winding canals of Amsterdam are best seen by bike. Secure your transport at MacBike for as little as $8 per day, pedal over to Vondelpark, an oasis of green where it seems the entire city comes to hang out. Amsterdam's wide variety of ethnic kitchens are great for the budget and are not short of flavor. Sari Citra is a flavor-packed Indonesian restaurant with dishes like Bali beef with green beans-the perfect complement to a long bike ride (52 bg Ferdinand Bolstraat, 011-20/675-4102). Where to Stay: The 26 rooms at Chic&Basic in the Jordaan district are just that, but the rate includes perks like free basic breakfast (cereal, juice, boiled eggs) and wireless internet. Be sure to request a room with a  view of the adjacent canal (13-19 Herengracht, 011-31/205-222-345, chicandbasic.com, from $150). The audit: Airfare (from $1,226)* + 3 nights hotel (from $450) + meals ($250) + bike rental ($16 for two) = $1,942 per couple *Based on round-trip airfare from Washington, D.C. to Amsterdam for two people.   Zion National Park: $2,040 for a family of four Utah's Zion National Park has stunning painted landscapes and vertical topographies, and spring means cooler temperatures and smaller crowds than the peak summer season. Tame hikes like the Watchman Trail—with panoramic views of the namesake spire—are an easy way to get your bearings (and perfect for kids). More adventuresome trails will have you wading across canyon rivers, exploring petrified forests, and passing through epic freestanding arches. Pack your constellation guide: On clear nights, stargazing is among the best in the continental U.S. Bring a picnic lunch, but for dinner make your way to Whiptail Grill, a popular Southwestern joint housed in converted fueling station (445 Zion Park Blvd., 435/772-0283, enchiladas from $12). Where to Stay: Driftwood Lodge is located right outside of Zion Park (they offer a free shuttle) and has family-sized rooms, a pool, and unobstructed views of the surrounding canyons (1515 Zion Park Blvd., 888/801-8811, driftwoodlodge.net, from $219 per night for four people). The audit: Airfare (from $708)* + 3 nights hotel (from $657) + park admission ($25 per vehicle for a seven-day pass) + meals ($500) + transportation ($150 for a three-day car rental) = $2,040 per family of four *Based on round-trip airfare from Seattle to Las Vegas for four people.   Iceland: $2,210 per couple Book a trip for the diverse and happening arts scene in Reykjavik as well as the many natural wonders. And even as early as April, the average low temperature rarely dips below the freezing mark. Reykjavik is a small city (about a quarter the size of Los Angeles) but packs a lot of culture into one tiny area, including art museums and galleries with extensive catalogues of works by Icelandic artists. The waterfront Hafnarhus, part of the Reykjavik Art Museum, is home to a large collection of works by postmodernist painter Erró (17 Tryggvagata, 011-354/590-1200, artmuseum.is). Iceland's main draw, though, is the natural beauty further afield. Reykjavik Excursions' Golden Circle tour hits some key highlights: Gullfoss Waterfall, Þinghvellir National Park (site of the Atlantic rift), and Geysir hot springs (011-354/580-5400, re.is). Speaking of hot springs, the country's most famous attraction is the Blue Lagoon, one of the best hot springs in the world (011-354/420-8800, bluelagoon.com, entrance fee $39 per person) Where to Stay: Reykjavik's Hotel Bjork is right in the city center and has 55 minimalist rooms. The included breakfast is a bonus, as are stunning views of the mountains and harbor (22-24 Brautarholt, 011-354/511-3777, bjorkhotelreykjavik.com, from $135). The audit: Airfare (from $1,210)* + 3 nights hotel (from $405) + museum admission ($17 for two) + excursion ($150 for two) + hot springs ($78 for two) + meals ($250) + transportation ($100 for cabs) = $2,210 per couple  *Based on round-trip airfare from Boston to Reykjavik for two people. SEE MORE FROM BUDGET TRAVEL: 10 Most Sacred Spots on Earth 15 More Places Every Kid Should See Before 15 8 Common Mistakes Weekend Travelers Make To Go or Not to Go: 11 Places with a Bad Rap World's 16 Most Picturesque Villages

Inspiration

10 Most Sacred Spots on Earth

When we modern folks visit a beautiful natural site, the experience may evoke a sense of peace, a feeling of awe...or just the need to snap a million photos. For our ancient forbearers, though, these places were so much more. Throughout history, civilizations all over the globe have attached spiritual or religious importance to natural spots (ie. not man-made places) that played key roles in their respective cultures. From the mythological homes of powerhouse gods like Zeus and Shiva to the serene spot where the mortal Buddha achieved enlightenment, these are the places of legends. Some are still used for age-old rituals, others have been lost to time, but all crackle with a special energy and, if you're lucky, just a little bit of leftover magic. SEE THE SACRED PLACES! 1.ULURU-KATA TJUTA NATIONAL PARK, AUSTRALIA  Located in Australia's Red Centre, in the heart of the continent, these two natural rock formations are the main attractions in the World Heritage Site Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. One of the country's more recognizable landmarks, Uluru is a flat-topped sandstone rock standing about 1,100 feet high and almost six miles around, with a soulful, deep-red hue that changes throughout the day. (The site is also known as Ayers Rock, so named by the colonial surveyor who "rediscovered" the place in 1873.) About 30 miles away, Kata Tjuta (a.k.a. The Olgas) is made of more than 30 domes of varying rock types, including granite, sandstone, and basalt; the tallest point is almost 1,800 feet high.  Both sites are sacred to the Anangu people of the Pitjantjatjara Aboriginal tribe, who believe the rocks were built during the ancient creation period and are still inhabited by ancestor spirits. (Archeologist work suggests there were humans in this area over 20,000 years ago.) Owned by the Anangu and leased by the government, the park is open to the public, though tribespeople continue to perform rituals and ceremonies in various locations, such as the sacred "Dreamtime" track that runs near the modern hiking trail. The park also houses a Cultural Center and Aboriginal rock art sites, and ranger guided tours are available. Getting There: Visitors can drive or join a bus tour to the park from Alice Springs (280 miles away), or fly to Ayers Rock Airport/Connellan (AYQ); Qantas and Virgin Australia offer direct flights from several major domestic cities. There are only a few accommodation choices in the area, in different price ranges, and all are owned by Voyages Indigenous Tourism. (Camping is not allowed in the park.) Note that while hiking Uluru is not technically forbidden, the Anangu ask that visitors not climb the rock out of respect for its significance, and also ask that photos not be taken of certain sacred sites. Guests should also not pocket any rocks as souvenirs—those who have say it brings bad luck, and often mail the rocks back to the park. Admission is $25 for a three-day pass. 2. CENOTE SAGRADO, MEXICO  The ancient Maya revered water for its life-sustaining power, and worshiped Chac, the god of rain, because of this awe of H20. Many areas of Mexico are dotted with cenotes—natural underground sinkholes—and the Maya believed that some of these sites were visited by Chac himself. As a result, some cenotes were designated as "sacred" and kept for rituals, offerings and sacrifices, while others were set aside for bathing, drinking and crop water. One of the most notable of the sacred springs is Cenote Sagrado, located near the major Mayan archeological site Chichen Itza in the Yucatan Peninsula. Created from a natural limestone cave, with steep sides stretching about 60 feet above the water line, this cenote was specifically used for ceremonies and occasional sacrifices; for the latter, men, women, and children were thrown in during drought times to appease the water gods. When archeologists dredged the spring in the 20th century, they found gold bells, masks, cups, rings, jade pieces, and more (many from the post-Spanish period) along with human bones. Getting There: One of the most visited archeological sites in Mexico, Chichen Itza can be reached by car or organized bus tours (typically about $35 per person) from nearby tourist hubs like Cancún or Cozumel, or via infrequent public bus service; the ride is about two-and-a-half hours from Cancún. The entry fee is about $8 and includes the evening light and sound show; headphone tours are $2. Cenote Sagrado is part of the Great North Platform section of the site. 3. MAHABODHI TREE, BODH GAYA, INDIA  According to Buddhist traditions, around 500 B.C., when the ascetic Prince Siddhartha was wandering through what's now the state of Bihar in India, he took rest under a native bodhi tree. After meditating there for three nights, the prince awoke with enlightenment, insight and the answers he had been seeking, which developed into the teachings he went on to spread to his disciples. Naturally, the place where the Buddha reached enlightenment is one of the most sacred sites for Buddhists, and has been a major pilgrimage destination for centuries. Today, a temple complex surrounds what is believed to be a direct descendant of the original majestic tree itself, which sits in the middle of a courtyard surrounded by protective carved panels. A beautiful Buddha statue under the tree marks the significant spot.   Getting There: A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Mahabodhi Temple Complex is in the Bodh Gaya area of Bihar, India. The site is about three miles from the Gaya Airport and about seven miles from Gaya City. Car service, public buses, and bus tours are also available from the holy city of Varanasi; public buses run about $8.   4. MOUNT KAILAS, TIBET  This black rock mountain in western Tibet is something of a holy hat trick, since it is sacred to Buddhists, Hindus, and Jains and is thought to be the mythical Axis Mundi, the center of the universe. Hindus believe it is the residence of Lord Shiva and the land of eternal bliss, and have celebrated the mythical Kailas in temple carvings throughout India. Tantric Buddhists say the mountain is the home of Buddha Demchog, who represents supreme bliss, and that three key Bodhisattvas live in the surrounding hills, while Jains believe it is the site (which they call Mount Ashtapada) where the first Jain attained nirvana. The peak is part of the Gangdise Mountain range and is set near the source of some of the longest rivers in Asia, including the Sutlej, the Indus, and the Ghaghara (a tributary of the holy Ganges River). Nearby Lake Manasarovar, considered the source of purity, is another major pilgrimage site for both Hindus and Buddhists. Getting There: Despite being such a mythical sacred site, Mount Kailas is also one of the least visited, due to its remote location in the Tibetan Himalayas. From Lhasa, it's about a four-night journey over the plateau to the small pilgrim outpost, where there are a few basic guesthouses. From this base, most pilgrims set out on foot, pony, or yak to circumnavigate the base of the mountain, a journey of about 32 miles. There is no record of anyone having attempted to climb Mount Kailas. 5. MOUNT SINAI, EGYPT  Some of the basic tenets of Judeo-Christian-Islamic beliefs can be traced back to this mountain on Egypt's Sinai Peninsula, for it was at the top of this peak that Moses is said to have received the Ten Commandments from God. Though there is not much archeological evidence confirming this as the exact place, and biblical scholars have theorized for years about the mythical mountain's location, early Christian monks believed this was the sacred site and established several monasteries in the area. Getting There: In the past, visitors could start at St. Catherine's Monastery at the base of the mountain, then climb to the summit, where there is the small Holy Trinity chapel and stunning views, especially at sunrise, however in September 2013, The Guardian reported that St. Catherine's Monastery was forced to close as a result of a shaky economy following the country's uprisings. The mountain can only be reached by road; Dahab and Nuweiba are both about two hours away by car, while it's about three hours from resort hub Sharm al-Sheikh. Most hotels on the peninsula can set you up on a bus tour, and many of these arrive at the base around 1 a.m., so visitors can be at the summit for sunrise. There are two ways to climb: by foot (which takes between 45 minutes and three hours, depending on your pace, or by camel, which is about three hours; note that if you choose the latter, you will still have to walk the final 750 steps up to the top. Guests are required to hire a local guide at the entrance for about $15 (the rate is negotiable.) Because of its peaceful silence, the mountain is also popular with visitors who practice yoga and meditation. 6. GLASTONBURY TOR, ENGLAND  Rising out of the middle of the Summerland Meadows in Somerset, England, is a hill that has long had magical connection. For centuries, Glastonbury Tor (Celtic for "hill") has been a source of myths: Some ancient Celtic civilizations considered it the entrance to the home of the Gwyn ap Nudd, alternately regarded as Lord of the Underworld and King of Fairies (a theory that resurfaced in the 19th century), while pagans may have used it for ceremonies celebrating the Goddess. Later, the site was considered a possibility for King Arthur's Avalon, since Arthur and Queen Guinevere's coffins were supposedly discovered at the top of the hill in the 12th century. And even more recently, theorists have linked the hill to the quest for the Holy Grail. To further add to all the speculation, archeologists have found remains of seven deep, symmetrical terraces on the hill's slopes, which could be anything from Middle Age crop land to a Neolithic labyrinth. Whatever the history, the hill is still thought to have spiritual energy, as visitors often report feeling more hopeful and positive after a walk on its slopes. Topped by the remains of the 15th century church of St. Michael, the hill is managed by the National Trust of the United Kingdom.  Getting There: The Tor is a short walk or bike ride from the center of Glastonbury, which is linked to London by frequent train service. The nearest station to the hill is Castle Cary. Admission is free. 7. CRATER LAKE, OREGON  Formed nearly 8,000 years ago after an alleged massive eruption caused Mount Mazama to collapse, this deep blue, freshwater caldera lake in south-central Oregon plunges nearly 2,000 feet below ground, making it the deepest in the United States and the seventh deepest in the world. The Native American Klamath tribe has long considered the lake a sacred site: Their legends say a battle here between the Chief of the Above World and the Chief of the Below World led to the destruction of Mount Mazama. (Historians believe the Klamath people may have witnessed the actual implosion of the mountain.) The tribesmen used Crater Lake in their vision quests (tasks may have included scaling the crater walls), and it is still considered a spiritual spot. The lake is now part of Crater Lake National Park. Getting There: Crater Lake National Park is about 60 miles from the airport in Klamath Falls and 80 miles from the airport in Medford; cars can be rented in both locations. (There is no public transport service available.) The park is open year-round, but some areas may be inaccessible in winter. A seven-day pass is $10 for cars and $5 per person for pedestrians, bicyclists, or motorcycles. Check the official park website for a list of official free days each year. 8. MOUNT PARNASSUS, GREECE  Towering above Delphi in central Greece, this limestone mountain looms large in Greek mythology. In addition to being sacred to the god Apollo, who often visited the nearby Oracle at Delphi, the mountain was thought to be the residence of the Muses and, as a result, the home of poetry and song. The three Corycian Nymphs, each of whom was romanced by a major god, were born of springs located on Parnassus, and the mountain was also the setting for many minor myths. Today, the only sacred activity takes place on the slopes: The mountain is topped by two popular ski centers and is dotted with scenic hiking trails. Getting There: Mount Parnassus is a winding, two-hour mountain drive from Athens. Day trips and overnight bus tours are also available (Key Tours offers Delphi tours from $120 per person). After exploring the slopes, don't miss a visit to the ancient ruins in Delphi, set in the shadow of the mountain. 9. LAKE ATITLÁN, GUATEMALA  Set up in the Guatemalan Central Highlands, and bordered by three volcanoes, Lake Atitlán is the deepest lake in Central America at 1,114 feet. Along with its natural beauty, the lake is famous for the Maya villages that ring its shores, many of which have been there for centuries. Ninth-century Panajachel, one of the largest, has been drawing tourists since the 1960s, while in Santiago Atitlán, residents are known for their worship of Maximo, a local idol that fuses Mayan gods, Catholic saints, and Spanish legends. Mayan ceremonies still take place at various sites around the lake, from caves to the top of an adjacent hill. The lake's shores are also strewn with archeological sites and ruins of pre-Spanish towns, including Chiutinamit, a mythological "underwater city." Getting There: Lake Atitlán is located in western Guatemala, about a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Guatemala City or Antigua. Companies like Transport Guatemala can arrange for bus or van service (from $25 per person from Guatemala City, from $15 per person from Antigua). There are a wide array of accommodations, from luxury to budget, in towns like Panajachel, along with tourist activities and dining options. 10. VORTEXES, ARIZONA  Sedona, Arizona, has long drawn people interested in healing, spirituality, mysticism, and metaphysics, who come for more than just the dramatic, red-rock beauty. The area is famous for its vortexes, powerful centers of kinetic energy that can have a deep effect on those who visit them; there are four main ones spread around town, including one near the airport. The ancient Native American Yavapai people knew about these centers, and celebrated this "Great Mother" energy with petroglyph paintings and sacred dwellings. Today, visitors can easily walk or hike to the four spots (the one in Boynton Canyon is among the most popular), and once there, can meditate or just soak up the good vibes. Many feel recharged and uplifted after visiting a vortex, and some guests even report having visions or deeper experiences while in town. Getting There: Sedona is a scenic two-hour drive from Phoenix, home to an international airport, and 45 minutes from the smaller commercial airport in Flagstaff. Maps highlighting the four vortexes are available at most hotels and online.

Adventure

Confessions of a National Park Ranger

ALL THAT FRESH AIR COMES AT A PRICE There's a saying about park rangers: "You get paid in sunrises and sunsets." That's really true. You don't do this job for the pay. Sometimes you have to wonder why we work so hard to get these federal positions. The people who are attracted to the job are outsiders—they enjoy solitude, they enjoy nature. It's the most unlikely group of people you'd expect to want to work with the federal government. And you have to give up a lot. It's extremely difficult to have a family or meet someone. You work seasonal positions for years until you finally get a permanent spot, only to realize you like a seasonal girl who's not going to be around in six months. TWO PARTS ACTION-ADVENTURE FLICK, ONE PART OFFICE SPACE I've had moments where the job is as exciting as anything you can imagine. You're fighting wildfires, getting lowered from helicopters on a rescue, chasing someone down with a gun on your side, going out on a manhunt. Then sometimes you're directing traffic or dealing with the bureaucracy of the federal government.  LOST FROM THE GET-GO It doesn't matter which park you're working, people are like deer in the headlights. They're totally out of their element, they don't know where anything is, and half the time they haven't done any research before their trip. At the Grand Canyon, people will show up on the North Rim only to find out they're on the wrong side—and then they're shocked that they have to drive all the way around the canyon to get to the South Rim. I had one lady bawling when I told her it was a five-and-a-half-hour drive to the other side. She was like, "There's no bridge?!" NO COMMON SENSE There's no shortage of stupidity when it comes to what people will do. They'll sit right at the edge of the canyon, where there are no guardrails and it's a 1,000-foot drop. And people forget that they're at 8,500 feet. They wonder why they're having chest pains. They think they're having a heart attack, and we have to remind them it's the altitude. Then there are always people who hike down into the canyon and are totally unprepared—no water, no idea how long it will take. They don't realize there's a big change in temperature and conditions when you drop from 8,500 feet to 2,200 feet. That's one of our most common rescues. They always say they were so in awe of the beauty that they didn't realize how far they'd gone. PEOPLE WILL DO ANYTHING FOR A PICTURE It's absolutely astounding what people will do just to prove they saw something. They'll jump from rock pillar to rock pillar—nothing below—just to get the right angle for a shot of the canyon. Sometimes someone's camera falls over the edge and they're crawling over to try to get it. Or they'll stop in the middle of the road, with cars behind them, just to get a picture of a deer (you know, we've all seen deer, but these are deer with the Grand Canyon in the background). AMERICANS ARE THE WORST I've seen far more interest from foreigners in our national parks than by Americans. You'll be talking to someone from New Zealand and they're asking you about the geography, the culture, the history. And then an American asks you where the burger stand is. I'll LET YOU IN ON A SECRET—MAYBE People are always asking where the best place in the park is, or where they should go to watch the sunset. If I can tell someone is really interested, I'll probably tell him. But if it's some entitled jackass who rushes up to me like, "Hey, man, I got 20 minutes in the park. What's the absolutebestspot?"—no way. And then sometimes you do share, and it backfires. Someone once told me I ruined his vacation because I gave him the wrong place to watch the sunset. BEING A MEMBER HAS ITS PRIVILEGES In any profession, you're going to get certain privileges, but I try not to take advantage of my position. But yeah, there have been times when I've gotten pulled over, and I made sure my badge was right next to my driver's license so the cop sees it. There's kind of an understanding. WHEN THE MOMENT IS RIGHT... There's something about national parks. You're in an unbelievably romantic place. It gets your juices flowing, creates a spark. Things happen. There are definitely times when a ranger has to approach a car because the windows are a bit steamy. But sometimes we turn a blind eye to it. We're all human. SEE MORE FROM BUDGET TRAVEL: 15 More Places Every Kid Should See Before 15 10 Most Sacred Spots on Earth Secret Hotels of Florida's Gulf Coast 12 Elevators You Have to See to Believe Tax Refund = Vacation! 7 Amazing Trips That You Can Afford Right Now

15 More Places Every Kid Should See Before 15

First, we picked 15 US landmarks every child should see before they turn 15 and you didn't always agree with our picks. Then, we asked you to help us put together the definitive family vacation checklist. What made a monument worthy of inclusion? It needed to be fun, educational, and especially magical through the eyes of a child. It needed to inspire adults to tap back into that childlike sense of wonder. And it needed to have universal appeal. Of course, the surest way to rile folks up is to publish a list and this case was no different. Our nominations process was fierce and brought out the full range of emotions in our audience—passion, joy, sadness, anger. You spoke up to nominate 562 attractions and voted over 138,000 times. So how did we arrive at the final list? As we explained in the rules, we used your votes—combined with factors such as geographic and thematic diversity—to guide our selection-making process. And we automatically eliminated places that had made our story last year. The final list for 2012 represents the best that our nation has to offer our children. (Psssst... want to see the top five winners by votes alone? Visit our nominations page.) SEE WHERE YOU SHOULD TAKE THE KIDS THIS SUMMER U.S. Space & Rocket Center Huntsville, Alabama Blasting away the competition in our reader poll, this Huntsville shrine to NASA displays an amazing collection of rockets and space memorabilia. At the Davidson Center for Space Exploration, the star attraction is a restored version of the famous Saturn V rocket, but be sure to also check out the F-1 rocket engine, a motor that periodically vibrates and roars as if it were being tested for space-worthiness. Next-door is the country's original Space Camp, where aspiring astronauts can feel the gravitational yank of lift-off via the simulator. One Tranquility Base, 800/637-7223, ussrc.com. Museum: Adults, $20; kids, $15. Space Camp: Family of four from $1,248 for a three-day program, including accommodations and meals.   The Field Museum Chicago, Illinois Across its nine acres of floor space, the Field showcases giant robot wolf spiders, 23 Egyptian mummies, and the biggest Tyrannosaurus rex fossil ever dug up, in one of the broadest arrays of natural wonders under one roof. The collection of dioramas hold a dizzying array of species, from African lions and giraffes to Arctic penguins and polar bears, and it's a favorite childhood fantasy to slip inside one of the magical timeless worlds. Kids 12 and under can dress up like animals, dig up dinosaur bones, and explore a pueblo home at the Crown Family PlayLab. Friday nights from mid-January to mid-June, the museum hosts sleepovers, where children 6 to 12 and their parents can sleep right next to the dinosaurs (the 2012 nights are sold out, so book early for 2013). Talk about a dream vacation. 1400 S. Lake Shore Dr., 312/922-9410, fieldmuseum.org. Adults from $15; kids 3-11, from $10.   SeaWorld San Antonio San Antonio, Texas SeaWorld's Texas outpost garnered the most votes of all the theme parks in our poll. We assume that the combination of roller coasters and flume rides with beluga whales, sharks, stingrays, sea lions, and a host of other aquatic animals gave it an edge. There are many hands-on programs, putting visitors up close and personal with some of the park's inhabitants (including a behind-the-scenes tour with the penguins). In May 2012, the new water park Aquatica will open with a set of educational thrill rides; expect rafts sailing through grottos with stingrays and a "zero gravity" area that simulates weightlessness. Other new attractions include Sesame Street Bay of Play (opened in 2011), a three-acre space with educational activities for young children, and the animal encounter show "One Ocean" in which orcas and trainers illustrate educational lessons about the fragility of the environment. 10500 SeaWorld Dr., 800/700-7786, seaworldparks.com. Adults, from $59.99; Kids 3-9, from $49.99. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park Hawaii Watching an actual volcano in action is a far cry from the baking soda science experiments kids do at school. At this Hawaiian park, visitors watch—at a safe distance—as hot lava spills into the Pacific, where it bursts into particles later pulverized by the waves into black sand. The park is home to two of the world's most active volcanoes, and rangers will bring you down into the lava tubes (subterranean caverns formed by hardened molten rock) and maybe even play you a tune on a ohe hano ihu, aka the Hawaiian nose flute. Says reader Angela: The surreal black landscape is "one of the few places in the world where your kids can stand on earth that is younger than they are." One Crater Rim Dr., 808/985-6000, nps.gov/havo. Park entrance fee is $10 per vehicle; bike or foot entrance starts at $5. Birmingham Civil Rights Institute Birmingham, Alabama Our nation's civil rights history is chronicled at this Birmingham museum, which places the '50s and '60s in a context that today's children can understand. There are compelling artifacts on display to illustrate segregation such as a set of "colored" and "white" drinking fountains. The exhibits don't gloss over the tragedies of the civil rights' era, and include the story of four young girls killed in a bombing at the Sixteenth Street Baptist Church, right across the street from the museum. The galleries do include hopeful notes, including a video recording of Martin Luther King, Jr.'s "I Have a Dream" speech. 520 Sixteenth St. North, 205-328-9696, bcri.org. Adults, $12; kids, grades 4-12, $3.   Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library & Museum Springfield, Illinois Not all presidential museums are created equal. When the 40,000-square foot museum wing of this downtown Springfield complex opened in 2005, it instantly became America's most high-tech presidential landmark. Case in point: Go to the Holavision Theater to see Ghosts of the Library, a play where a hologram of our 16th president appears and disappears along with actors on the stage to recreate the founding of the library. Lower-tech exhibits include the Treasures Gallery, a room full of Lincoln artifacts including family photos as well as Abe's shaving mirror and one of his iconic stovepipe hats. Hands-on activities bring history to life; take a trip to Mrs. Lincoln's Attic to dress-up in period costume. 212 N. Sixth St., 800/610-2094, alplm.org.Adults, $12; kids 5-15, $6. Mount Rushmore South Dakota Even the most jaded teen will be wowed by the colossal busts of Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt, and Lincoln at this national park in the Black Hills of Keystone. The visitors' center has exhibits on the 14-year journey to complete the monument, which was finished in 1941 after 400 workers dynamite-blasted the granite peaks to carve the faces. There is also info on how the four great leaders depicted guided our nation through tricky times. Stay for sunset to sing the National Anthem at the lighting ceremony, and challenge your kids to count the number of different state license plates in the parking lot. While you are in the area, make time to see the Crazy Horse Memorial, another enormous cliff carving in the making about a half an hour southwest of Mount Rushmore. 13000 Highway 244, 605/574-2523, nps.gov/moru. Free; parking permit, $11. Metropolitan Museum of Art New York, New York Where else in the U.S. can you see an ancient Egyptian temple, a Ming Dynasty garden, and one of the world's largest collections of Vermeers all under one roof? The Met covers a 14-acre space in Central Park, yet this cavernous space is only large enough to show a sliver of its full collection of art and artifacts. The museum itself is constantly evolving, and the third and final phase of a decade-long refurbishment of the American Wing re-opened in January 2012. Children can easily learn about our nation's history from early colonial times through the Civil War and into the modern era via iconic paintings, including Emanuel Leutze's famed depiction of General George Washington crossing a near-frozen Delaware River during the Revolutionary War. 1000 Fifth Ave., 212/535-7710, metmuseum.org. Adults, suggested donation of $25.   Hoover Dam Nevada An engineering wonder about 30 miles southeast of Las Vegas, this dam supplies 20 million residents of California, Nevada, and Arizona with water and provides hydroelectricity to 1.3 million customers. No written description truly captures the visceral effect of peering out over the parapet at the top of the dam and looking down at the Colorado River, racing along 700 feet below. More than 1,200 feet wide at the top, this all-concrete wonder was the largest dam in the world when it was completed in 1936 (it was one of many public works projects intended to help lift the country out of the Great Depression). A bypass bridge opened in 2010 and provides fabulous photo opportunities for pedestrians. Experts lead walking tours that will thrill future engineers. One tip: Avoid visiting in the summer when temperatures can hit 110 degrees. 866/730-9097, usbr.gov.Tour Adults, $11, Kids 4-16, $9.   Acadia National Park Maine At just 49,300 acres, this wilderness where the tall Cadillac Mountains meet the Bay of Fundy is one of the country's smallest national parks. To put it into perspective, you could fit Acadia into Yellowstone National Park 45 times! But it is not lacking in appeal. Mountain trails lead to pristine views of rock-rimmed islands plus beaver, red fox, and long-tailed weasel sightings that will be perfect fodder for "What I Did Over My Summer Vacation" essays. Breathe in the salt air and glance up at Acadia's skies, typically graced with rare birds, such as peregrine falcons and bald eagles. The coast here tends to attract seals and finback whales, as well as many varieties of seabirds, such as the double-crested cormorant. Ranger-naturalists also lead free hikes through the park, starting from the Hulls Cove Visitors Center. 207/288-3338, nps.gov/acad. Park entrance fee starts at $10 per vehicle; bike or foot entrance is $5.   Golden Gate Bridge San Francisco, California The Golden Gate Bridge is one of those quintessential American icons, equal parts eye candy and engineering lesson (it's also one of our record-breaking bridges). The suspension bridge connects San Francisco and Marin County in a mechanical feat that was unprecedented in the 1930s; at its opening ceremony, the bridge's chief engineer, Joseph Strauss, said "What Nature rent asunder long ago man has joined today." Take a walk along the pedestrian path for astonishing views of Angel Island, Alcatraz, Treasure Island, and San Francisco. If the 220-foot height of the bridge is unsettling for the little ones, opt instead to view the landmark from a distance (there are relatively tourist-free viewpoints at Lincoln Park). It might be hard to find an empty spot, though. The famed bridge is celebrating its 75th anniversary in 2012-there will be fireworks and a festival on Memorial Day weekend-and is expected to draw more than ten million visitors throughout the year. 415/921-5858, goldengatebridge.org. Free. Museum of Science Boston, Massachusetts More than one and a half million visitors annually come to this museum on the Charles River to try their hand at scientific research, from learning the physics behind seesaws and swings to recreating Galileo's famous experiments (do a feather and a weight really fall at the same rate?). While other museums can take years to develop exhibits, Boston's museum has a flexible space, called the Current Science and Technological Center, where staff create live presentations to relay discoveries, some of which have just been announced. The museum's planetarium is a stellar attraction, too, with a full-dome video and audio system that bring the cosmos closer to earth. 1 Science Park, 617/723-2500, mos.org. Adults, $22; kids (3-11) $19.   Carlsbad Caverns New Mexico At sunset, spectators gather at an amphitheater in this national park in southeastern New Mexico to wait for bats to fly. Predictably, a swirling dark cloud of the flying mammals funnels out the cavern and swoops above, where it splinters apart into groups heading to the nearby Pecos and Black River valleys. This rare natural show makes Carlsbad Caverns stand out from other national parks, especially to impress kids. Cave expeditions are also a draw, with rangers leading tours lasting from between an hour and a half and five and half hours. Some of the caves are huge, such as the well-named Big Room, which could fit 6.3 football fields. Adventurous kids will enjoy crawling through passageways or making rope-assisted descents through curtains of stalagmites, mentally soaking up all the educational lessons about geology explained by the rangers along the way. 575/785-2232, nps.gov/cave. Book ahead for guided tours. Entry fee: Adults, $6; kids under 15, free.   National Museum of American History Washington, D.C. Social studies class comes to life at this Smithsonian museum, which mixes serious history with lighter fare: The original Star-Spangled Banner! The world's first industrial robot! The gowns worn by First Ladies at presidential inaugural balls! Reopened in 2008 after a major renovation, the museum displays highlights from the collection of more than three million objects in more than 250,000 square feet of gallery and exhibition space. Kids can look as well as touch, with daily activities like adding giant stars to an 1813-style garrison flag. The free museum highlights tour is also recommended. National Mall at 14th St. and Constitution Ave NW., 202/633-1000, americanhistory.si.edu. Free. Arches National Park Utah This national park is especially convenient for families whose kids may be too young for a strenuous hike. It only takes a couple hours to drive past many of the park's 2,000 brawny, pink sandstone arches. And you'll still have time to reach Moab, less than 20 miles away, for lunch. The park's real time to shine, literally, is at sunset, when Delicate Arch reflects the sunlight in blazing reds that contrast sharply with the snow-topped La Sal Mountains in the backdrop. Expect to see tons of photographers there, as if Beyoncé were about to appear. 435/719-2299, nps.gov/arch. Park entrance fee is $10 per vehicle; bike or foot entrance is $5.