High Style, Low Rates: Spanish Paradores

Name: Budget Travel LLC
Price range: $

By Tiffany Sharples

February 7, 2006

The country has put $500 million into redoing its paradores, with talented designers eagerly signing on to give gorgeous old buildings their due.

For Joaquin Jesus Serrano, working as a bartender at the Parador de Zafra, in a commanding 15th-century castle, used to feel a bit too much like returning to the Middle Ages. "The lighting was so dark, and the walls were plain white," he explains while refilling a glass of Rioja. Today, Serrano may as well be in West Hollywood. The parador's backlit bar is as subtly glam as anything on Melrose Avenue. Round silver mirrors line the soft gray walls, and a sophisticated crowd settles into brown, round-backed chairs.

Spain's state-run parador system was founded in 1928 by King Alfonso XIII, with two goals. He wanted to preserve deteriorating buildings--about half of the 91 paradores are in palaces, convents, and the like--by opening them as lodgings (parador means "stopping place"). And he hoped to make exploring the country easy for all by keeping the rates low.

After decades of wear and tear, however, the properties were in need of another dose of preservation. In 2001, the government launched a $496 million initiative: All of Spain's paradores will be renovated by 2010, and nine new ones will be built. Seventy renovations have already been completed, but several of the most beautifully redone historic buildings will be opening over the next year.

Prominent interior designers in Spain competed for the opportunity to redesign each parador. "These buildings are a part of our cultural heritage, of world heritage," said Jaime Beriestain, the man behind the renovation of Parador de Zafra in 2003. (Visitors to Spain may know his work from the Hilton Barcelona's 2003 refurbishment.)

When taking on the Zafra project, Beriestain was reminded of "those castles that you draw as a little boy, towers and all. I wanted to maintain the tradition of the space." The result is still unmistakably a castle: Many guest rooms have arched, carved wood doors with big iron knobs in the middle; off-white bedspreads are accented by regal red-and-pink pillows and dust ruffles; beds are bedecked with golden headboards and canopies. But the building has also been warmed up. It's a castle, but it's cozy. The courtyard has wrought-iron chairs with comfortable white cushions, and leather chaise lounges cluster around a fireplace in the second-floor living room. "It's a place to curl up with a hot drink," says Beriestain. For his color palate, the designer referenced the drastic seasonal changes of the region, Extremadura. The carpets in the corridors incorporate lush greens and arid reds in a swirling motif reminiscent of topographical maps.

Beriestain also oversaw the $4 million renovation of the Parador de Trujillo, a 16th-century convent 90 miles northeast of Zafra. While the most dramatic change was probably the addition of a rooftop swimming pool, he brought in colorful artwork and furniture as well, such as the parlors' red banquettes and low-slung mustard-and-white couches. In the breakfast room, which was once the convent's chapel, Renaissance arches are trimmed in a warm shade of salmon. "Trujillo was the seat of the conquistadors," says Beriestain. "It was the place they would come home to from the New World." Beriestain played up the past by introducing gold wherever he could: Fixtures in the hallways bounce light off of large golden plates; an enormous gold circle hangs above the bar; and modern chandeliers--four tiers of gilded circles--hang in the dining room.

Retaining a sense of history is only one aspect of a parador's renovation, according to Madrid-based Pascua Ortega. "The artistic part is converting it into a 21st-century hotel," he says.

Prior to the initiative, in 1995, Ortega had completed a redesign of the Parador de Ávila, a 16th-century palace 70 miles northwest of Madrid. It's a good example of what visitors can expect from his and other designers' renovations to come. Ortega's first order of business at Ávila was to introduce more light: "It was just too dark." Now, green fabrics and sunny yellow walls brighten the rooms, and a sleek bar with royal-blue cushioned stools serves as a social hub. Cream canopies hang over four-poster beds in each of the 61 guest rooms, and small red lamps are suspended above the tables in the dining room.

As with the other two paradores, history still has a hold on the grand building, which abuts the town of Ávila's Roman walls. Lest you forget that you're entering a place that's over 400 years old, a full suit of armor stands guard at the reception desk, and beautiful wooden beams run throughout the ceilings in the hotel. "You want to conserve whatever you can," says Ortega. "These buildings have their own charm."

Lodging

Parador de Zafra Plaza Corazón de María 7, 011-34/924-55-45-40, parador.es, from $133

Parador de Ávila Marqués Canales de Chozas 2, 011-34/920-21-13-40, parador.es, from $133

Parador de Trujillo Calle Santa Beatriz de Silva 1, 011-34/927-32-13-50, parador.es, from $133

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Planning a Caribbean Vacation

What you'll find in this article: Caribbean trip planning advice, St. Lucia restaurants, St. Lucia hotels and resorts, snorkeling, and other activities in St. Lucia After three years of law school and several grueling weeks preparing for the bar exam, Jenny Meader and Heather McKinney, of Little Rock, Ark., are ready for some R&R. Both are in their early thirties, having worked for several years before heading back to school, and are looking to steer clear of a spring break bacchanal. "We're planning a Caribbean vacation before we become responsible adults again," Jenny wrote to us. "No more briefing, no more blue books, no more teacher's dirty looks." Heather and Jenny have hefty loans to pay off and hope to keep expenses to a minimum, with a budget of $2,500 each for about five nights. "We'd like to leave sometime around April 7, when the bar exam results come out," says Jenny. "The trip will either be a celebratory one, because we passed, or one where we find a new career selling seashells by the seashore." Picking the right island is the first task. We start by asking what they see when they imagine their ideal locale. "Sandy beaches," Jenny responds, "with clean, clear water, friendly locals, and good food." Heather adds that they'd also like to do some hiking. "Being near the beach and the rain forest would be amazing," she says. "We intend to go hiking and snorkeling." The island also has to be a safe, stress-free place for single women. And finally, they're looking for a stylish, welcoming place to stay with air-conditioning and, ideally, a kitchenette. It's a tall order, especially considering their money constraints and the fact that they're traveling at the tail end of high season. We first suggest St. John, one of the U.S. Virgin Islands. Not only is the island mostly undeveloped, two-thirds of it is a national park, with fantastic beaches and easy day hikes. But there are a few drawbacks. St. John is popular for cruise ship excursions, and well-known beaches such as Trunk Bay can get crowded. More cons: St. John doesn't have a true, classic rain forest with towering old trees; and, perhaps most critically, inexpensive rooms with A/C are scarce. Jenny is intrigued with what she's heard about the "Nature Island" of Dominica. It certainly has a legitimate rain forest, along with challenging hikes at altitudes high enough to keep mosquitoes at bay. There aren't a lot of tourists, which sounds good, but they stay away largely for the same reasons Heather and Jenny might--the beaches are either rocky or too far from the hotels they'd find most comfortable. And the main town, Roseau, is full of old, worn-looking buildings and might be a turnoff. While discussing the options, Jenny and Heather discover their priorities don't entirely match. "I'm sold on Dominica," says Jenny, "but Heather doesn't want to give up the beaches. Is there someplace that's a cross between Dominica and the Virgin Islands?" The solution is St. Lucia, famous for the two giant oceanside peaks known as the Pitons, with wonderful white-sand beaches and a variety of accommodations. We recommend staying in the shadow of Petit Piton, at the southern end of the island, near the fishing village of Soufrière. There are plenty of beaches and hiking opportunities, and it's away from the traffic and large hotels of capital city Castries. Before they settle on the Soufrière area, we offer up another choice on St. Lucia's east side, the Fox Grove Inn, which rents hotel rooms and apartments, only some of which have air-conditioning. And considering the location, they'd definitely need to rent a car, something they'd rather not do, at least not for the entire vacation. Upscale Soufrière resorts such as Anse Chastanet and Ladera are out of Jenny and Heather's price range, but might be worth visiting for a meal or a swim. At our suggestion, they consider two retreats in the mountains outside town, Crystals Guest Cottages and Stonefield Estate Villa Resort. Jenny and Heather are instantly infatuated with the latter's 19 villas--with kitchens--spread over 26 acres; paths trace lines among the mango trees and other greenery. "It seems to be exactly what we want," says Heather. "It's away from the bustle, and how could we not be excited about the amazing views?" They especially like that airport pickup is included in their package, and that all guests can ride a daily shuttle into Soufrière and to the beach at the Jalousie Plantation resort, each about ten minutes away. They decide to delay their trip until after April 15, when the resort's rates drop. And then they splurge, going for a package that includes massages and a larger, ocean-view villa. "The regular deluxe suite was sold out for our dates, so we upgraded to the luxury suite," says Jenny. "We get our own private swimming pool!" Finding reasonable airfare winds up being fairly easy, in part because Jenny and Heather shifted their dates to after spring break. A few Internet searches make it apparent that U.S. Airways has the best fares out of Little Rock: $630 round trip, with stops in Charlotte and Barbados, about $100 less than other carriers for the same dates. Satisfied with that rate, they decide against trying to save some cash by flying out of a bigger hub such as Memphis or Dallas; it isn't worth the trouble. "We definitely want to experience some of the local culture, especially in terms of cuisine," says Jenny. Camilla's, an unpretentious, second-story restaurant with balconies overlooking downtown Soufrière, has excellent dinners (lobster thermidor, creole chicken), as well as burgers, sandwiches, and salads for lunch. The Stonefield's own Mango Tree restaurant specializes in fresh seafood, and every Thursday night hosts a fun barbecue ($35). To stock their kitchen, Jenny and Heather will need to take the shuttle into Soufrière and walk to the markets on Bay Street, a block off the waterfront. They'll find all the basics, as well as island vegetables such as dasheen (similar to a potato) and callaloo (for a delicious spinach-like soup). Jenny and Heather will want to get out of the Soufrière area at some point and are leaving the option open to rent a car for a day or two. While most agencies are at or near the airports, Ben's West Coast Jeeps and Taxi Services is in Soufrière and rents cars from $60 a day. (Foreigners on St. Lucia have to get a $21 driving permit, purchased through the rental agency.) With a car, Jenny and Heather can drive to the weekly party known as Friday Fish Fry, when the village of Anse La Raye closes off several streets, and fresh seafood and lobsters are grilled to the beat of Caribbean music. (A cab from Stonefield will cost about $30 per person each way, so it's cheaper to rent a car.) They could also drive to the Enbas Saut Waterfall Trail, which leads through rain forest and over steep steps to falls that double as a popular swimming hole. Lucky hikers catch a glimpse of St. Lucia's rare national bird, the Amazona versicolor. Even at a good pace, hiking the entire Edmund Rainforest Trail, not far from Enbas Saut, can take three hours. But the walking is easy and straightforward, and it's not essential to do the entire hike to spot orchids and bromeliads clinging to trees, along with occasional panoramas of the coast and St. Lucia's tallest peak, Mount Gimie. Deep into the planning, after they've booked airfare and plotted a day-by-day itinerary, the women conclude that five nights just isn't going to cut it. "We're concerned that we won't be able to do everything we want," says Jenny. "So we're thinking about staying two more nights." Changing their flights means $100 more per person--not the end of the world. They stick with Stonefield for five nights, but want something less expensive for the two extra nights, perhaps even camping. Then they book a hotel in northern St. Lucia that they had dismissed earlier: Coco Kreole, where rates start at $85. "It's an inexpensive way to extend our stay," says Heather. "And the location, near all the action in Rodney Bay, gives us a nice change of pace after Stonefield." Making a vacation longer is hardly against the law--and returning to life as responsible adults can wait. Surprise! Jenny and Heather will enjoy a Rainbow Reef snorkeling package, free of charge, thanks to St. Lucia's luxurious Anse Chastanet resort. The package includes an excursion to nearby reefs and a plantation lunch with creole specialties. A water taxi picks the ladies up and drops them off at the Soufrière port. Bring an underwater camera! Transportation Ben's West Coast Jeeps and Taxi Services 758/459-5457, westcoastjeeps.com, car rentals from $60 Lodging Fox Grove Inn 758/455-3800, foxgroveinn.com, from $55 Crystals Guest Cottages 758/384-8995, stluciacrystals.com, cottages from $120, seven-night package from $850 Stonefield Estate Villa Resort 758/459-7037, stonefieldvillas.com, weeklong package for two from $1,225, $60 per person per day for breakfast and dinner Coco Kreole 758/452-0712, cocokreole.com, doubles from $85 Food Ladera 758/459-7323, ladera.com, Sunday buffet brunch $20 Friday Fish Fry Anse La Raye, anselaraye.com, $8 Camilla's 758/459-5379, lobster thermidor, $31 Activities Anse Chastanet 758/459-7000, ansechastanet.com, Rainbow Reef package $45 Enbas Saut Waterfall Trail trailhead at foot of Mount Gimie, six miles east of Soufrière, $10 Edmund Rainforest Trail Edmund Forest Reserve, on road to Fond St. Jacques, $10 How Was Your Trip? The Reazer family, who we coached in July/August on a 25-day road trip, loved staying in unusual places, like this yurt in Oregon's Fort Stevens State Park. "It had a futon, bunk beds, and heat--which we really needed," says mom Laura.

Hitting the Slopes in Dubai?

The United Arab Emirates' capital has morphed into a glitzy playground for the rich, and developers are tripping over themselves to build bigger and more outrageous attractions (The tallest skyscraper! An underwater hotel! Three hundred man-made islands shaped like the world!). The latest see-it-to-believe-it novelty is Ski Dubai, a 5.5-acre resort within a 25-story slanted metal tube featuring a chairlift, five downhill runs, a cross-country trail, a quarter-pipe for snowboarders, and ice sculptures. Fir trees and temperatures in the 20s stand in chilly, jarring contrast to the palm trees and sweltering heat outside. Black winter parkas and equipment come with admission. Mall of the Emirates, Sheikh Zayad Road, skidubai.ae. Bookmark our Snow Report for updated news, deals, and events Ski Condos for Slackers: How to Score Last-minute Deals America's Top 10 Old-school Ski Resorts

Oslo Trumps Tokyo as Most Expensive City

After a 14-year run, Japan's capital has dropped to second place in a detailed survey by The Economist's Intelligence Unit of the cost of doing business or staying as a tourist in 130 major destinations worldwide. The results reflect shifts in global prosperity, and a recent surge in profits from its offshore oilfields tipped the balance in favor of Oslo, Norway. European cities dominated eight of the top 10 slots thanks to the strength of the euro, while American cities have slipped in the ratings--the most expensive, New York City, fell to 27. Savvy travelers don't have to resign themselves to shelling out more cash just yet. There are still bargains to be found in Europe, and plenty of inexpensive destinations worth a look. We've long been running our own handy series from the opposite perspective: Cheapest Places on Earth. Top 10 Most Expensive Cities: 1. Oslo 2. Tokyo3. Reykjavik 4. Osaka 5. Paris 6. Copenhagen 7. London 8. Zurich 9. Geneva10. Helsinki Navigating Expensive Cities: London Snap Guide My Paris Is Better Than Yours Reykjavik: Eat Like a Local Cheapest Places on Earth: Montenegro Panama Thailand

Chic, Affordable Tokyo Cafes

The two major misconceptions about dining in Tokyo: There's nothing but Japanese food, and it all costs a fortune. Aoyama, home to many luxury boutiques, is a place where you're likely to want a quick, cheap bite. Conveniently, the neighborhood has a number of stylish cafés serving good, simple food. Caffè @ Idée The Idée brand of interior design is a Tokyo institution, and the flagship Aoyama shop houses a café serving a substantial menu of sandwiches, pastas, and more. Minami-Aoyama 6-1-16-3F, 011-81/3-3409-6744 Café Les Jeux Most drinks are a bit pricey--but it's worth trying one to sample some unusual uses of coffee. One of the most creative is the Sourire Glacé ("iced smile"): Milk is poured over crushed ice cubes made out of coffee ($5.50). Minami-Aoyama 5-9-5-2F, 011-81/3-3499-6297 Café Crépuscule Even without a café on the premises, the NADiff shop located off Omotesando would be worth a visit. Its carefully curated art books, magazines, CDs, and accessories are a joy to browse while sipping one of Crépuscule's many Belgian beers. Jingu-mae 4-9-8-B1F, 011-81/3-3423-0760 Café Plus Minus Zero The ultrachic Plus Minus Zero brand of accessories and electronics was started a few years ago by toymaker Takara, in conjunction with designer Naoto Fukasawa. Behind the Aoyama shop is a minimalist café, with a pretty patio. Kita-Aoyama 3-12-12, 011-81/3-5778-5380 Dragonfly Café Follow the sign pointing up to the second floor, past the cow statue (indicating a branch of Cow Books). The seating arrangements divide the small café into a couple of distinct spaces: a large communal table with a funky green top, two quiet side rooms, and a terrace with a view of the surrounding greenery. Minami-Aoyama 3-13-14-2F, 011-81/3-5412-7527 Office The name takes a cue from the furniture--desks, tables, and chairs that would be equally at home in a conference room. But make no mistake: This evening-only option (it opens at 5 p.m.) is a surprisingly relaxing place to hang out and flip through style/design magazines. Kita-Aoyama 2-7-18-5F, 011-81/3-5786-1052

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