Honolulu: Natural Hawaii

SEE Iolani Palace364 S. King St., 808/522-0832, iolanipalace.orgTake a grand tour of the restored Hawaiian royal palace, which dates from 1882. Crown jewels, ancient feathered cloaks, and royal china give a glimpse at what was America's only monarchy. The Royal Hawaiian Band plays an hour-long concert on the grounds at noon most Fridays. Reservations necessary for the tour. $20. Closed Sun.-Mon. SEE Kawaiahao Church957 Punchbowl St., 808/522-1333Christian missionaries and Hawaiians completed Kawaiahao in 1842, after five years' work. No wonder it took so long-they used some 14,000 coral blocks from offshore reefs weighing 1,000 pounds. Sunday morning services, with lively sermons and hymns, are conducted in Hawaiian and English. 9 a.m. SEE National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific 2177 Puowaina Dr., 808/532-3720It was called Puowaina ("hill of sacrifice") by ancient Hawaiians because lawbreakers were put to death here. These days, the long-extinct volcanic sister of Diamond Head serves as the final resting place for many World War II, Korean War, and Vietnam War soldiers. SEE Shangri La4055 Papu Circle, 866/385-3849, shangrilahawaii.orgFamously reclusive, the late tobacco heiress Doris Duke built this estate in the 1930s after visiting Hawaii on her honeymoon. She was known to surf with the Kahanamoku brothers-Duke Kahanamoku was the father of modern surfing-and filled Shangri La with rare Islamic art. Call months in advance to reserve a tour. $25 (includes entry to Honolulu Academy of Arts, 900 S. Beretania St., where the tour starts). SEE USS Arizona Memorial1 Arizona Memorial Pl., 808/422-0561 (recorded info) or 808/422-2771, nps.gov/usarThe visitors center commemorating the attack on Pearl Harbor, has a small museum, two theaters, and an offshore memorial over the remains of the USS Arizona. Visits include a documentary on the infamous day. Admission is free but entrance tickets are required; arrive very early (7-8 a.m.) to get one. Leave any large beach bags or purses back at the hotel. SEE Hawaii's Plantation Village 94-695 Waipahu St., Waipahu, 808/677-0110, hawaiiplantationvillage.orgA fascinating open-air museum in Waipahu that earnestly re-creates the lives of varied ethnic groups-native Hawaiian, Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, Puerto Rican, Okinawan, Korean, Filipino-who worked the sugar fields. $13, kids $5. PLAY Bishop Museum1525 Bernice St., 808/847-3511, bishopmuseum.orgPremier natural and cultural artifacts of Hawaii and the Pacific, encompassing pre-Western contact through the present. Hula dancing demonstrations are twice a day. Its summer Moonlight Mele on the Concert Lawn Series is especially popular. Call or check online for schedule. 6 p.m.; Museum admission $15 adults, $5 kids. SPEAKING THE LANGUAGEThe Hawaiian alphabet has just twelve letters, and only seven of them are consonants (h, k, l, m, n, p, and w). If you stress each vowel, you'll come close to pronouncing words correctly.   Aloha Hello, goodbye, love   Kama'aina Literally "child of the land"; refers to both longtime and island-born residents   Kane Man (on a door, it means men's room)   Kapu No trespassing   Mahalo Thank you   Malihini Newcomer, visitor   Ono Delicious (literally, a kind of fish)   Pupu Snacks or appetizers   Wahine Girl or woman (on a door, the ladies' room) If you hear some pidgin in Honolulu, it's likely to be one of these phrases:   Brah All guys in the islands are brahs, or brothers   Grindz Food   Howzit? What's happening? An informal hello   Mo Bettah Good, a good idea   Shaka It's cool, hello, goodbye (for the hand signal, make a fist, then stick out your thumb and pinky and shake)   Slippahs Flip-flops

SEE Sans Souci BeachBetween New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel (2863 Kalakaua Ave.) and Waikiki War Memorial Natatorium, Waikiki BeachNicknamed Dig Me Beach for all the hardbodies on display, its literal French translation is "without a care." Preening Adonises parade along the beach, while out in the water, long-distance swimmers, outrigger paddlers, and triathletes train. Great swimming year-round. PLAY Gray's BeachIn front of the Halekulani hotel, 2199 Kalia Rd., Waikiki BeachFind it by following the walkway alongside the Halekulani. There are two surf breaks offshore: Paradise and Threes. The narrow beach can disappear at high tide. Fun for swimming and people watching; gear rentals available. PLAY Queen's Surf Enter across from Kapiolani Park, Waikiki Beach, 808/923-1094Open-air screenings of free movies (both new releases and classics) each weekend. Arrive just before sunset with a towel or beach chair; dinner is sold on site. Call for a schedule. PLAY Kuhio Beach ParkFrom the Waikiki Beach Center (corner of Kalakaua and Uluniu Aves.) to Kapahulu Ave. The protected cove is kid-friendly, and the nearby Waikiki Beach Center offers restrooms, showers, lockers, and equipment rentals. Further west, in front of the Sheraton Moana Surfrider, you can ride the surf in an outrigger canoe (Aloha Beach Desk, 808/922-3111; $10 for 25 minutes). Canoe's, a nearby shore break, is the one of the best beginner surf spots. PLAY Ala Moana Beach ParkAcross from the Ala Moana Center (1450 Ala Moana Blvd.)After Waikiki, this huge beach park is Honolulu's most popular; weekend family picnics near the barbecue pits give it a local feel. The protective reef creates a lagoon perfect for doing laps. PLAY Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve7455 Kalanianaole Hwy., southeast of HonoluluThe reefs of this underwater volcano crater teem with tropical fish, making it a hotspot for snorkeling. One of the country's most beautiful beaches, Hanauma is always packed. To beat the crowds, go early in the morning or in the late afternoon. Rent snorkeling gear at the educational center. No smoking. Closed Tues. Entry fee $5, parking $1. ESCAPES Kailua BeachEnter along Kawailoa Rd., between Lihiwai Rd. and Aalapapa Dr., Kailua Windsurfing is Kailua's big draw, but this two-mile long beach also has great swimming and sunbathing. Just southeast is Lanikai Beach (access from Mokulua Dr.), where you can paddle out to the tiny Mokulua Islands, home to bird sanctuaries. Rent from Kailua Sailboards & Kayaks (130 Kailua Rd., 808/262-2555, kailuasailboards.com; $39 for half-day single kayak rental, $49 for half-day double; guided tours from $89). The North Shore During its October-to-April epic swells, when waves easily reach 20 feet or more, surfers from all corners congregate at Waimea Bay, Sunset Beach, and the notorious Banzai Pipeline. Contests allow enthusiasts to grab a free, safe seat in the sand and watch the pros rip, get barreled, and wipe out. (Swimmers need not despair-there are plenty of summer days when waves are flat and waders rule.) Prime snorkeling in the non-winter months can be found at Shark's Cove in Pupukea, a good alternative to popular Hanauma Bay. One of the Shore's largest towns is Haleiwa, a hippie holdover marked by some surf shops, a few battered shacks, and an occasional handwritten sign (mango pickles for sale). In the back of Celestial Natural Foods lies Paradise Found, a vegetarian café with a local following (66-443 Kamehameha Hwy., 808/637-4540). The landmark Matsumoto's Shave Ice specializes in a version of what mainlanders call snow cones (66-087 Kamehameha Hwy., 808/637-4827). There's a staggering selection of mix-and-match bikinis at North Shore Swimwear (66-250 Kamehameha Hwy., 808/637-7000) and gear of all sorts at Surf N Sea (62-595 Kamehameha Hwy., 808/637-9887, surfnsea.com).

EAT Diamond Head Market and Grill 3158 Monsarrat Ave., 808/732-0077A health-conscious lunch spot. Order a grilled ahi sandwich to go, or sit inside and nosh on specials like the mochiko chicken bento. The blueberry scones make for a memorable breakfast, too. EAT Kaka'ako KitchenWard Centre, 1200 Ala Moana Blvd., 808/596-7488The best local cuisine ever to be served on a Styrofoam plate, and the most affordable way to sample chef Russell Siu's latest creations. The ingredients used here-Nalo salad greens and fresh ahi, for example-also show up on the menu at 3660 on the Rise (3660 Waialae Ave, 808/737-1177, 3660.com), Kaka'ako's older and more expensive cousin. EAT Eggs 'n Things1911-B Kalakaua Ave., 808/949-0820It's breakfast only at this surfing-themed joint. The egg and pancake specials start flying at 11 p.m. and keep coming until 2 p.m. the next day. Expect all walks of life after hours, from musicians and chefs just off work to famished insomniacs. EAT Jimbo's 1936 S. King St., 808/947-2211Jimbo Motojima's place is a well-kept secret-few tourists know about its awesome homemade rice, soba, and udon noodles, served with smoky broth and extras like shrimp tempura, vegetables, and seaweed. Warning: Lunch lines are long. Advice: Call ahead for take-out. EAT Leonard's Bakery 933 Kapahulu Ave., 808/737-5591An institution since the 1950s, and known for fresh-out-of-the-fryer Portuguese malassadas and malassada puffs. Only the coconut-haupia or guava-custard filling in the malassada puffs lets you know you're not in Lisbon. EAT Ono Hawaiian Foods 726 Kapahulu Ave., 808/737-2275Locals line up here for the authentic pork laulau (the meat is wrapped in taro leaves and steamed) and poke (a seviche-like dish). Ono adds its own twist to poi (a paste made from taro) by fermenting it slightly; add a little sugar and it tastes as good as yogurt. EAT Rainbow Drive-In3308 Kanaina Ave., 808/737-0177A Honolulu favorite since 1961 and one of the best places to try a Hawaiian-style plate lunch: your choice of a main dish (such as teriyaki beef or boneless chicken) plus two sides, usually one scoop of macaroni salad and two scoops of white rice. EAT You Hungry 1695-D Kapiolani Blvd., 808/949-8707Visitors are unlikely to hear much pidgin spoken in the islands-it's more of a private language for locals-but the Hawaiian restaurant You Hungry provides a taste. Instead of regular and large, the menu distinguishes between "sorta hungry" and "hungry" portions; a toothpick jar is labeled like pick teet? SPLURGE Hau Tree LanaiInside the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel, 2863 Kalakaua Ave., 808/921-7066Outdoor seating on the Gold Coast of Waikiki (at the Diamond Head end of Kapiolani Park). The Pacific Rim specialties like garlic seared ahi or mango-marinated pork chops are particularly good. Reservations are a must; request one of the romantic oceanfront tables. THE VERY BEST MAI TAIThe quintessential Hawaiian cocktail, the mai tai (Tahitian for "the very best") was actually created in California at the tiki-themed chain restaurant Trader Vic's in 1944. The recipe didn't make its way to the islands until the '50s. Though the fruity rum concoction has gradually devolved into a cough-syrupy mess, a handful of hotel bartenders still know how to mix up the real deal. House Without a Key is the hands-down favorite. Its version has a slight hint of almond, and is served over crushed ice with fresh mint, purple orchid, lime, and a sugar cane stirrer (Halekulani hotel, 2199 Kalia Rd, 808/923-2311). Four runners-up: Hau Tree Lanai (Kaimana Beach Hotel, 2863 Kalakaua Ave., 808/921-7066), Mai Tai Bar (Royal Hawaiian Hotel, 2259 Kalakaua Ave., 808/923-7311), The Banyan Veranda (Sheridan Moana Surfrider, 2365 Kalakaua Ave., 808/922-3111), and Barefoot Bar (Hale Koa Hotel, 2055 Kalia Rd., 808/955-0555).

All hotels are in Waikiki. Rooms have air-conditioning, private baths, and TVs. Aqua Kuhio Village2463 Kuhio Ave., 866/406-2782 or 808/791-7171, aquaresorts.comA very recently renovated "condotel" three and a half blocks from the beach. Some rooms have partial ocean views. Sister property Aqua Bamboo (2425 Kuhio Ave., 866/406-2782 or 808/922-7777) is just down the street. Doubles (at either property) from $99. ResortQuest Coconut Plaza Hotel450 Lewers St., 800/922-7866 or 808/923-8828, resortquesthawaii.comMost rooms at this boutique hotel have balconies, and all but the standard doubles have kitchenettes. Light sleepers should ask for a mountain view facing away from Ala Wai Boulevard. There's a small pool with a sundeck; the beach is four blocks away. Doubles from $79 (book on the hotel's website). The Breakers250 Beach Walk, 800/426-0494 or 808/923-3181, breakers-hawaii.comA perfectly preserved 1950s relic half a block from the beach. Some rooms have Japanese-style-sliding shoji screens that hide tiny kitchens and spacious closets. The back lanais of a few face the Urasenke Tea House, providing a view of traditional tea ceremonies. There's a small pool. Doubles from $99. Hawaiiana Hotel260 Beach Walk, 800/367-5122 or 808/923-3811, hawaiianahotelatwaikiki.comAnother vintage hotel, slightly larger than its neighbor The Breakers. A social clientele hangs around the two small pools, which are surrounded by lava-rock walls and tropical plants. Rooms are nothing special, but all have kitchenettes. Doubles from $105. Queen Kapiolani Hotel 150 Kapahulu Ave., 800/367-2317 or 808/922-4671, queenkapiolani.com The 315 rooms have standard hotel decor; there's a big pool, plus a restaurant and lounge. The cheapest rates ($72) go three months in advance. Spring for a deluxe ocean-view room (from $105)-they're bigger, and the best ones have views of both Waikiki Beach and Diamond Head. A special room-and-rental-car package can be as low as $79 a day. Royal Grove Hotel151 Uluniu Ave., 808/923-7691, royalgrovehotel.comThis hot-pink hotel is Honolulu's best budget bet. Rooms are vast and sunny, with kitchenettes and full-size fridges. The setting feels like something out of Beach Blanket Bingo, with a small courtyard pool and surfboards hanging in the lobby. Doubles from $45 without A/C; from $62 with A/C. SPLURGE ResortQuest Waikiki Beach Hotel2570 Kalakaua Ave., 800/877-7666, resortquesthawaii.comRooms in the main tower have bright aloha prints and lanais overlooking Kuhio Beach, which is across the street. Breakfast is included-borrow a cooler and chairs and eat it picnic-style on the beach. On the second floor, Tiki's Grill & Bar offers live Hawaiian music daily in the mornings. Doubles from $141 (if you book on the hotel's website). SPLURGE Waikiki Parc Hotel2233 Helumoa Rd., 800/422-0450 or 808/921-7272, waikikiparc.comThe best reasons to stay here: location and service. It's 100 yards from the beach-many rooms have spectacular views-and across the street from Honolulu's premier hotel, the Halekulani. They're owned by the same folks, so the operation is flawless. Rooms have the spare, retro vibe common in Waikiki; what makes them memorable are the floor-to-ceiling shuttered windows. Eighth-floor pool and small exercise room. Doubles from $160, including breakfast. GEARING UPThe ubiquitous ABC Stores may have everything Waikiki visitors need, but venture downtown for the best deals. Foodland (Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., 808/949-5044) is the most accessible alternative to the priced-for-tourists Food Pantry grocery store in Waikiki. Wal-Mart, across from Ala Moana Shopping Center, is the place to go for goggles, flippers, boogie boards, beach towels, and coolers (700 Keeaumoku St., 808/955-8441). Keep in mind: Nothing is cheap in Hawaii; prices will be considerably higher on than the mainland. True bargain hunters can stock up upon arrival at Costco, halfway between the airport and Waikiki, just off the N. Nimitz Highway (525 Alakawa St., 808/526-6103, membership required).