How to Plan a Vacation Both Grandma and Junior Can Enjoy

You'd think that a guy like actor Kyle MacLachlan would be a superstar in Washington's Walla Walla Valley. He grew up in the area, a blossoming wine-producing region in the remote Blue Mountain foothills, and in 2005 he started his own small line of Cabernet here. MacLachlan is such a big Walla Walla booster, in fact, that he recently donated the 34-foot Airstream trailer he used on the set of Twin Peaks to a local fromagerie so that twentysomething food-industry interns would have a decent place to live cheaply while they learned a new skill. And yet if you spend much time in Walla Walla, you'll find that MacLachlan is a minor attraction compared with Pierre-Louis and Joan Monteillet. Never heard of them? Perhaps that's because they devote their days to crafting artisanal cheeses. That's the funny thing about Walla Walla: In this valley (a four-hour drive east of Portland on I-84, followed by a stretch through lovely quiet byways), the real celebrities aren't who you'd expect, not even the vintners. These days, of course, any first-class wine region worth its grapes is dotted with white-tablecloth restaurants. But what's different about Walla Walla is that it's also sparked a full spectrum of foodie alternatives, from scrappy taco trucks to start-up farms to bars serving artfully concocted cocktails. And one cheese that you might say is worth its weight in gold. Day 1 Milton-Freewater, Ore., to Walla Walla, Wash.11 Miles You could breeze through the entire Walla Walla Valley in a few hours, but that would mean blowing past hidden treasures such as tiny Milton-Freewater, Ore. Pioneers settled the hamlet more than 100 years ago, and the orchards they planted are still the town's main livelihood. Fruit stands seem to outnumber buildings by three to one. Or you could skip the fruit and head straight for dessert. Petits Noirs, an artisanal chocolate shop, looks almost dowdy in its brick house on Main Street—until you open the door to its splashy turquoise walls and orange and lime-green vintage furniture. The chocolate is like that, too: tame on the outside, surprising and exotic within. Co-owner James Boulanger, who left New York City's popular Sullivan Street Bakery to relocate here, uses fruit from area farms and herbs from his own garden to create complex confections designed to play off the valley's wines and produce. The spicy Syrah paired perfectly with the chocolate he calls Fresh Fig. It's 10 minutes along Highway 12 to the town of Walla Walla, but there are plenty of side roads that will make you want to get lost in all that lushness. Back in 1990, before the wine industry took hold, the 530-square-mile valley had only six vineyards. Today, there are more than 120 crisscrossing the rural landscape. My husband, Darrell, and I had called ahead to schedule a private tasting with Gramercy Cellars, about a half-mile north of the Washington state line. Our host, Brandon Moss, 27, led us to the outdoor "tasting room"—four bottles and two glasses perched on the end of a wine barrel. As we sipped our way through a Tempranillo, two Syrahs, and a Cabernet, Brandon told us about the unusual route he took into winemaking. He grew up in the area on a small family farm, but he left in his teens to study dentistry at Oregon State. "After four years, it hit me," he explained. "I wanted to create those stained teeth, rather than clean them." Another 15-minute drive, this time going north along Highway 125, took us to the Maxwell House, a 100-year-old Craftsman-style B&B. Like a favorite aunt, owner Penny Maxwell Bingham met us at the door with just-baked chocolate-chip cookies. We settled in and, when dusk fell, hopped on a pair of cruiser bikes that she lends to her guests. Eight blocks away is the downtown Brasserie Four, a bistro tucked into a redbrick strip along Main Street. As we ate our potato soup and moules frites, I felt for a moment as if we were in France. Day 2 Walla Walla to Waitsburg, Wash.21 milesThe same mineral-rich soil that produces award-winning vines also makes for gorgeous produce. Early Saturday morning we biked to the Walla Walla Valley Farmers' Market to see the goods in all their rainbow-hued glory: countless kinds of violet and indigo berries, mounds of yellow sweet corn, and tomatoes in more varieties (and colors) than I knew existed. As much as anything, it's the abundant produce that has fed the valley's thriving street-food culture. After visiting the farmers' market, we pedaled seven blocks north and found ourselves at a taco truck called La Monarca, parked in an unassuming industrial lot. If the night before had transported us to France, we were now in Mexico—and for a mere $5.50. Nearby, we stumbled upon Salumiere Cesario, where the owner, Damon Burke, steered us to a jar of house-made pickles, just-made-that-morning hot mustard, and a fresh loaf of French bread. From Walla Walla, we took a half-hour drive north along Highway 12, past rolling wheat fields sprinkled with white clapboard farmhouses, and arrived in Waitsburg around dinnertime. The three-block strip lined with towering oaks and 19th-century brick buildings is all Norman Rockwell charm. True to its small-town vibe, the locals were tremendously friendly, although, curiously, many recommended a place with a decidedly un-small-town-sounding name: the Jimgermanbar, a spare, low-lit lounge in the center of Waitsburg. The food menu was handwritten on two rolls of butcher paper mounted on the white-washed walls. Owner Jim German specializes in classic cocktails, yet he's more than happy to make the standards. But it's more fun to give him a starting point (Campari, for instance, or Oregon's own Aviation Gin) and let him work his magic. Believe me: You'll sleep like a baby afterward. Day 3 Waitsburg to Dayton, Wash.10 milesWaking up to sheets of rain the next morning, it was tempting to stay put inside. But we weren't about to let a little vintage Northwest weather keep us from Monteillet Fromagerie down the road. The cheese shop is set on a 32-acre ranch (farmstays are also available), and when we drove up, the herds were being watched by a trio of enormous, snowy-white Great Pyrenees guard dogs. Inside the tasting room, Joan and Pierre-Louis greeted us warmly and began unwrapping some samples. Like Brandon, the aspiring dentist turned vintner, the Monteillets took a roundabout route to their profession. They spent 20 years working a 2,000-acre wheat farm that Joan's family owned in the area, then purchased their own plot of land and began experimenting with making cheese. Their Cardabelle Chèvre oozed a creamy, molten river when we cut into the rind. My favorite, Le Roi Noir, was a soft-ripened chèvre dusted with edible flakes of pure gold—just the right amount of bling for this laid-back scene.

We can hear you arguing with us already. How can a story about the finest food regions leave out—fill in the blank: New York. San Francisco. Grandma's kitchen. The fact is, we wanted to shine a light on cuisine that's both underappreciated and a delicious postcard from home. The best regional food is authentic to the bone, which is why you'll find as many mom-and-pop joints here as fancy restaurants. It's also why we asked local food bloggers for their favorites. They know their territory as well as anyone, and they aren't afraid to brag. Louisiana Cajun Cooking If you're looking for a life-altering culinary experience created by a made-for-TV celebrity chef, it's easy to find a lovely restaurant in New Orleans that will do the trick. What's harder is to locate an authentic Cajun meal served without all the food-mecca fanfare. Like all regional cuisine, Acadian food has a humble side, which is what you get when you toss fresh crawfish, crabs, and the occasional turtle into the pot. In the most traditional spots in and around New Orleans, eating is both a cause for celebration and a centuries-old way of life. ­—Peter Thriffiley Jr. and Rene A. Louapre IV, Blackened Out blog (blackenedout.com) Texas Barbecue Texans have never been accused of being modest, but singing the praises of the state's barbecue is boasting that's warranted. Unlike the pork belt of the Carolinas and the Deep South, Texas is all about beef, specifically smoked brisket. Near Austin, little has changed since the days more than a century ago when Czech and German butchers began using hickory, mesquite, and oak to smoke leftover cuts of meat. To visit the temples of Texas barbecue, you'll have to hit the road and travel to the sleepy ranch communities and small farming towns of hilly central Texas.­—Daniel Vaughn, Full Custom Gospel BBQ blog (fullcustomgospelbbq.com) Oregon Farm-to-Table Fare Maybe it's the region's connection to Lewis and Clark that makes the food culture of the Pacific Northwest both pioneering and close to the earth. Dishes take full advantage of abundant local treasures: coastal Dungeness crab and salmon from the Pacific, free-range cattle from the high desert, foraged wild mushrooms and fiddlehead ferns from the Cascade Range. Even better, because these world-class ingredients don't have to travel far from source to table, chefs frequently leave them alone. The result is simple yet innovative, whether you're eating in a five-star bistro, a cozy diner, or a greenmarket.­—Liz Crain, Food Lover's Guide to Portland blog (lizcrain.com) Pennsylvania Old World European Cuisine Pittsburgh long ago shook off its image as the capital of steel, smog, and soot. Still, there's at least one reminder (other than the Steelers) of the city's gritty past: the food. Many of the people who worked in the coal mines and steel mills emigrated from Central Europe, and their hearty cooking was the ultimate comfort food after a dangerous day on the job. Today's Slavic and German cuisine is every bit as satisfying as the bratwursts of yore, but you'll often find it prettied up a bit, too—not unlike Pittsburgh itself. ­—Mary Miller, The Fork and the Road blog (theforkandtheroad.com) New Mexico Chile Country Would you be surprised to know that the chile is so revered in New Mexico that it has even been named an official state vegetable? Always spelled with an e—regardless of what any gringo dictionary might say—these red and green flamethrowers add kick to America's most incendiary regional cuisine. Southwest cooking may have evolved from Native American, Spanish, and Mexican styles, but it's all-American now. In New Mexico, you'll see how salsa is really supposed to taste. —Gil Garduño, Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) blog (nmgastronome.com)  

Would you be surprised to know that the chile is so revered in New Mexico that it has even been named an official state vegetable? Always spelled with an e—regardless of what any gringo dictionary might say—these red and green flamethrowers add kick to America's most incendiary regional cuisine. Southwest cooking may have evolved from Native American, Spanish, and Mexican styles, but it's all-American now. In New Mexico, you'll see how salsa is really supposed to taste. —Gil Garduño, Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) blog (nmgastronome.com) Golden Crown PanaderiaAt this bakery near Old Town Albuquerque, the signature creation is green-chile bread decorated with a coyote design. You'll also find the state cookie, the biscochito, with its hints of anise and cinnamon. 1103 Mountain Rd. NW, Albuquerque, 877/382-2924, goldencrown.biz, biscochitos $17/lb. Mary & Tito's CafeHoused in the same adobe structure since 1971, this Albuquerque landmark was named a James Beard Foundation America's Classic in 2010. If you're in the mood for a major culinary fire drill, try the pure and piquant red chile sauce. Locals eat it on burritos with guacamole, beans, and rice or on the carne adovada (long-braised pork). 2711 4th St. NW, Albuquerque, 505/344-6266, facebook.com/maryandtitos, carne adovada burrito $7. Benny's Mexican KitchenMost people wouldn't look twice at the nondescript Benny's Mexican Kitchen. You should. This unheralded neighborhood spot puts together a pleasantly spicy green chile cheeseburger that may be the best burger in all of New Mexico—no exaggeration. It comes served with guacamole, a tasty twist on a local classic. 1675 Bosque Farms Blvd., Bosque Farms, 505/869-2210, Benny Burger $5. El Rancho de las GolondrinasThis 200-acre living museum celebrates the area's rich Spanish-colonial history. At the annual spring and harvest festivals, you can reenact life in the 1700s: blacksmithing, sheep-shearing, and sampling food grown on the ranch, such as fire-roasted chiles, mill-ground molasses syrup, and tortillas off the comal griddle. 334 Los Pinos Rd., Santa Fe, 505/471-2261, golondrinas.org, festival admission $8. Pueblo of JemezIn this sovereign tribal community, an hour northwest of Albuquerque, it's all about the horno. Outside the Walatowa Visitor Center, residents set up stalls around adobe wood-burning beehive ovens and bake traditional bread. You'll want to try it slathered with green chiles. 7413 Hwy. 4, Jemez Pueblo, 575/834-7235, jemezpueblo.org, loaf of horno bread $5. Buckhorn TavernThe walls here may be filled with neon beer signs and touristy antlers, but the Buckhorn Tavern means business. Owner Bobby Olguin puts his lip-tingling green chiles on anything: burgers, burritos, and the Rio Grande Special (ground beef, fries, and cheese under mounds of tomato and shredded lettuce). The restaurant is so beloved that then governor Bill Richardson declared July 24, 2009, to be Buckhorn Tavern Day to celebrate Olguin's victory in a green chile cheeseburger battle on Food Network's Throwdown With Bobby Flay. 68 U.S. Hwy. 380, San Antonio, 575/835-4423, socorro-nm.com/buckhorn.htm, Buckorn Burger $6.

Pittsburgh long ago shook off its image as the capital of steel, smog, and soot. Still, there's at least one reminder (other than the Steelers) of the city's gritty past: the food. Many of the people who worked in the coal mines and steel mills emigrated from Central Europe, and their hearty cooking was the ultimate comfort food after a dangerous day on the job. Today's Slavic and German cuisine is every bit as satisfying as the bratwursts of yore, but you'll often find it prettied up a bit, too—not unlike Pittsburgh itself. ­—Mary Miller, The Fork and the Road blog (theforkandtheroad.com) Braddock's American Brasserie and BarAmid the upscale menu at this New American brasserie are sophisticated nods to Central European classics such as braised short-rib pierogies with leeks. At brunch, try the Braddock's Benedict, which subs in griddled kielbasa for the classic Canadian bacon. 107 6th St., Pittsburgh, 412/992-2005, braddocksrestaurant.com, short-rib pierogies $8. Jozsa CornerReservations are crucial at this cash-only spot, where Alexander Bodnar cooks intimate, no-menu Hungarian meals. What the place lacks in space (you'll squeeze between a piano and mixed tchotchkes), it makes up for in charm, such as the plastic forks needed in a place too tiny for a dishwasher.  4804 2nd Ave., Pittsburgh, 412/422-1886, $10–$15 per person. Max's Allegheny TavernThe multicolored tile floors and beveled glass mirrors still glisten as they did more than a century ago when this was a hotel for wagon drivers delivering produce and wares to the city. The spaetzle, wurst, and sauerbraten can't be beat. 537 Suismon St., Pittsburgh, 412/231-1899, maxsalleghenytavern.com, sauerbraten and sides $15. Pierogies PlusHoused in a renovated gas station, Pierogies Plus dishes out made-from-scratch dumplings. The Slavic voices behind the counter aren't faking it—they're direct from Poland, Russia, and Ukraine. In addition to traditional flavors like potato and sauerkraut, Polish owner Helen Mannarino crafts unusual (and tasty) fillings like jalapeño and apricot. 342 Island Ave., McKees Rocks, 412/331-2224, pierogiesplus.com, pierogies from $4 for 6. Bardine's Country SmokehouseKielbasa, klobas, kubasa—whatever you call it, this country smokehouse is the place to buy it. The proof: Gary Bardine won six gold medals at the International Quality Sausage Competition, beating, among others, the Germans. Pick up some bread and grainy mustard, and go eat with the cows outside. 224 Bardine Rd., Crabtree, 724/837-7089, bardinemeats.com, kielbasa $4/lb.