America's Best Food Regions

May 16, 2011
110526_FoodRegions
Michael Mohr
Forget New York and Los Angeles! We're heading across the country—from the desert to the bayou to old steel towns—to find the most authentic regional fare from coast to coast.

We can hear you arguing with us already. How can a story about the finest food regions leave out—fill in the blank: New York. San Francisco. Grandma's kitchen. The fact is, we wanted to shine a light on cuisine that's both underappreciated and a delicious postcard from home. The best regional food is authentic to the bone, which is why you'll find as many mom-and-pop joints here as fancy restaurants. It's also why we asked local food bloggers for their favorites. They know their territory as well as anyone, and they aren't afraid to brag.

Louisiana Cajun Cooking

If you're looking for a life-altering culinary experience created by a made-for-TV celebrity chef, it's easy to find a lovely restaurant in New Orleans that will do the trick. What's harder is to locate an authentic Cajun meal served without all the food-mecca fanfare. Like all regional cuisine, Acadian food has a humble side, which is what you get when you toss fresh crawfish, crabs, and the occasional turtle into the pot. In the most traditional spots in and around New Orleans, eating is both a cause for celebration and a centuries-old way of life.
­—Peter Thriffiley Jr. and Rene A. Louapre IV, Blackened Out blog (blackenedout.com)

Texas Barbecue

Texans have never been accused of being modest, but singing the praises of the state's barbecue is boasting that's warranted. Unlike the pork belt of the Carolinas and the Deep South, Texas is all about beef, specifically smoked brisket. Near Austin, little has changed since the days more than a century ago when Czech and German butchers began using hickory, mesquite, and oak to smoke leftover cuts of meat. To visit the temples of Texas barbecue, you'll have to hit the road and travel to the sleepy ranch communities and small farming towns of hilly central Texas.
­—Daniel Vaughn, Full Custom Gospel BBQ blog (fullcustomgospelbbq.com)

Oregon Farm-to-Table Fare

Maybe it's the region's connection to Lewis and Clark that makes the food culture of the Pacific Northwest both pioneering and close to the earth. Dishes take full advantage of abundant local treasures: coastal Dungeness crab and salmon from the Pacific, free-range cattle from the high desert, foraged wild mushrooms and fiddlehead ferns from the Cascade Range. Even better, because these world-class ingredients don't have to travel far from source to table, chefs frequently leave them alone. The result is simple yet innovative, whether you're eating in a five-star bistro, a cozy diner, or a greenmarket.
­—Liz Crain, Food Lover's Guide to Portland blog (lizcrain.com)

Pennsylvania Old World European Cuisine

Pittsburgh long ago shook off its image as the capital of steel, smog, and soot. Still, there's at least one reminder (other than the Steelers) of the city's gritty past: the food. Many of the people who worked in the coal mines and steel mills emigrated from Central Europe, and their hearty cooking was the ultimate comfort food after a dangerous day on the job. Today's Slavic and German cuisine is every bit as satisfying as the bratwursts of yore, but you'll often find it prettied up a bit, too—not unlike Pittsburgh itself.
­—Mary Miller, The Fork and the Road blog (theforkandtheroad.com)

New Mexico Chile Country

Would you be surprised to know that the chile is so revered in New Mexico that it has even been named an official state vegetable? Always spelled with an e—regardless of what any gringo dictionary might say—these red and green flamethrowers add kick to America's most incendiary regional cuisine. Southwest cooking may have evolved from Native American, Spanish, and Mexican styles, but it's all-American now. In New Mexico, you'll see how salsa is really supposed to taste.
—Gil Garduño, Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) blog (nmgastronome.com)

 


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New Mexico Chile Country

Would you be surprised to know that the chile is so revered in New Mexico that it has even been named an official state vegetable? Always spelled with an e—regardless of what any gringo dictionary might say—these red and green flamethrowers add kick to America's most incendiary regional cuisine. Southwest cooking may have evolved from Native American, Spanish, and Mexican styles, but it's all-American now. In New Mexico, you'll see how salsa is really supposed to taste. —Gil Garduño, Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) blog (nmgastronome.com) Golden Crown PanaderiaAt this bakery near Old Town Albuquerque, the signature creation is green-chile bread decorated with a coyote design. You'll also find the state cookie, the biscochito, with its hints of anise and cinnamon. 1103 Mountain Rd. NW, Albuquerque, 877/382-2924, goldencrown.biz, biscochitos $17/lb. Mary & Tito's CafeHoused in the same adobe structure since 1971, this Albuquerque landmark was named a James Beard Foundation America's Classic in 2010. If you're in the mood for a major culinary fire drill, try the pure and piquant red chile sauce. Locals eat it on burritos with guacamole, beans, and rice or on the carne adovada (long-braised pork). 2711 4th St. NW, Albuquerque, 505/344-6266, facebook.com/maryandtitos, carne adovada burrito $7. Benny's Mexican KitchenMost people wouldn't look twice at the nondescript Benny's Mexican Kitchen. You should. This unheralded neighborhood spot puts together a pleasantly spicy green chile cheeseburger that may be the best burger in all of New Mexico—no exaggeration. It comes served with guacamole, a tasty twist on a local classic. 1675 Bosque Farms Blvd., Bosque Farms, 505/869-2210, Benny Burger $5. El Rancho de las GolondrinasThis 200-acre living museum celebrates the area's rich Spanish-colonial history. At the annual spring and harvest festivals, you can reenact life in the 1700s: blacksmithing, sheep-shearing, and sampling food grown on the ranch, such as fire-roasted chiles, mill-ground molasses syrup, and tortillas off the comal griddle. 334 Los Pinos Rd., Santa Fe, 505/471-2261, golondrinas.org, festival admission $8. Pueblo of JemezIn this sovereign tribal community, an hour northwest of Albuquerque, it's all about the horno. Outside the Walatowa Visitor Center, residents set up stalls around adobe wood-burning beehive ovens and bake traditional bread. You'll want to try it slathered with green chiles. 7413 Hwy. 4, Jemez Pueblo, 575/834-7235, jemezpueblo.org, loaf of horno bread $5. Buckhorn TavernThe walls here may be filled with neon beer signs and touristy antlers, but the Buckhorn Tavern means business. Owner Bobby Olguin puts his lip-tingling green chiles on anything: burgers, burritos, and the Rio Grande Special (ground beef, fries, and cheese under mounds of tomato and shredded lettuce). The restaurant is so beloved that then governor Bill Richardson declared July 24, 2009, to be Buckhorn Tavern Day to celebrate Olguin's victory in a green chile cheeseburger battle on Food Network's Throwdown With Bobby Flay. 68 U.S. Hwy. 380, San Antonio, 575/835-4423, socorro-nm.com/buckhorn.htm, Buckorn Burger $6.

Pennsylvania Old-World European Cuisine

Pittsburgh long ago shook off its image as the capital of steel, smog, and soot. Still, there's at least one reminder (other than the Steelers) of the city's gritty past: the food. Many of the people who worked in the coal mines and steel mills emigrated from Central Europe, and their hearty cooking was the ultimate comfort food after a dangerous day on the job. Today's Slavic and German cuisine is every bit as satisfying as the bratwursts of yore, but you'll often find it prettied up a bit, too—not unlike Pittsburgh itself. ­—Mary Miller, The Fork and the Road blog (theforkandtheroad.com) Braddock's American Brasserie and BarAmid the upscale menu at this New American brasserie are sophisticated nods to Central European classics such as braised short-rib pierogies with leeks. At brunch, try the Braddock's Benedict, which subs in griddled kielbasa for the classic Canadian bacon. 107 6th St., Pittsburgh, 412/992-2005, braddocksrestaurant.com, short-rib pierogies $8. Jozsa CornerReservations are crucial at this cash-only spot, where Alexander Bodnar cooks intimate, no-menu Hungarian meals. What the place lacks in space (you'll squeeze between a piano and mixed tchotchkes), it makes up for in charm, such as the plastic forks needed in a place too tiny for a dishwasher.  4804 2nd Ave., Pittsburgh, 412/422-1886, $10–$15 per person. Max's Allegheny TavernThe multicolored tile floors and beveled glass mirrors still glisten as they did more than a century ago when this was a hotel for wagon drivers delivering produce and wares to the city. The spaetzle, wurst, and sauerbraten can't be beat. 537 Suismon St., Pittsburgh, 412/231-1899, maxsalleghenytavern.com, sauerbraten and sides $15. Pierogies PlusHoused in a renovated gas station, Pierogies Plus dishes out made-from-scratch dumplings. The Slavic voices behind the counter aren't faking it—they're direct from Poland, Russia, and Ukraine. In addition to traditional flavors like potato and sauerkraut, Polish owner Helen Mannarino crafts unusual (and tasty) fillings like jalapeño and apricot. 342 Island Ave., McKees Rocks, 412/331-2224, pierogiesplus.com, pierogies from $4 for 6. Bardine's Country SmokehouseKielbasa, klobas, kubasa—whatever you call it, this country smokehouse is the place to buy it. The proof: Gary Bardine won six gold medals at the International Quality Sausage Competition, beating, among others, the Germans. Pick up some bread and grainy mustard, and go eat with the cows outside. 224 Bardine Rd., Crabtree, 724/837-7089, bardinemeats.com, kielbasa $4/lb.

Oregon Farm-to-Table Fare

Maybe it's the region's connection to Lewis and Clark that makes the food culture of the Pacific Northwest both pioneering and close to the earth. Dishes take full advantage of abundant local treasures: coastal Dungeness crab and salmon from the Pacific, free-range cattle from the high desert, foraged wild mushrooms and fiddlehead ferns from the Cascade Range. Even better, because these world-class ingredients don't have to travel far from source to table, chefs frequently leave them alone. The result is simple yet innovative, whether you're eating in a five-star bistro, a cozy diner, or a green market. ­—Liz Crain, Food Lover's Guide to Portland blog (lizcrain.com) Hopworks Urban BreweryNothing goes to waste at HUB: Recycled kegs double as decor, and the kitchen's used frying oil becomes biodiesel. The spot is so ecofriendly that you can buy a bike tube right at the bar. There are 12 rotating taps, with organic brews ranging from crisp and light to hoppy and bold. Naturally, all the hops are grown in the Pacific Northwest. 2944 SE Powell Blvd., Portland, 503/232-4677, hopworksbeer.com, beer $3.50. The Farm CaféOne thing you'll notice right away—there's no farm in sight. Housed in a restored Victorian in the Lower Burnside area, the café brings the farm to you: tomatoes from Junction City, eggs from Scio, hazelnuts from Monmouth—all less than 120 miles away. Among the café's fans: the Food Network, which touted the eggplant-filled veggie burger on its show The Best Thing I Ever Ate.  10 SE 7th St., Portland, 503/736-3276, thefarmcafe.com, veggie burger $11. Tasty n SonsIf you don't like sharing, don't bother coming to this popular family-style spot. Chef John Gorham sends local ingredients on exotic vacations: Moroccan chicken hash, Burmese red pork stew, chocolate potato doughnuts. The chalkboard at the entrance acts as a sort of birth certificate, listing names and locations of farm suppliers. 3808 N. Williams Ave., Ste. C, Portland, 503/621-1400, tastynsons.com, pork stew $9. Sauvie Island FarmsIt's hard to say what's more delicious about Sauvie Island Farms: the setting or what comes out of it. The family-owned farm is a go-to spot for pick-your-own fruits, flowers, vegetables, and fall pumpkins. Flanked by the Willamette and Columbia rivers, the island is quilted with trails and beaches to explore after filling up on freshly harvested pears and marionberries. 19818 NW Sauvie Island Rd., Portland, 501/621-3988, sauvieislandfarms.com, seasonal market price produce by weight. AlliumAbout a half-hour south of Portland in West Linn, Pascal Chureau's Allium serves French cuisine with a Northwestern twist (think grilled wild sturgeon with green lentils and truffle-thyme butter). Reserve a spot at one of the seasonal farm dinners, when local growers sit alongside guests to talk turkey, among other ingredients. 1914 Willamette Falls Dr., West Linn, 503/387-5604, alliumoregon.com, entrées from $13.

Texas Barbecue

Texans have never been accused of being modest, but singing the praises of the state's barbecue is boasting that's warranted. Unlike the pork belt of the Carolinas and the Deep South, Texas is all about beef, specifically smoked brisket. Near Austin, little has changed since the days more than a century ago when Czech and German butchers began using hickory, mesquite, and oak to smoke leftover cuts of meat. To visit the temples of Texas barbecue, you'll have to hit the road and travel to the sleepy ranch communities and small farming towns of hilly central Texas.­—Daniel Vaughn, Full Custom Gospel BBQ blog (fullcustomgospelbbq.com) Franklin BarbecueIf you're looking for a Texas barbecue tutorial, make this urban Austin joint your first stop. Aaron Franklin got his start in a vintage trailer—complete with garden gnome—and moved into his current location this year. He'll school you in the relative merits of brisket (fatty or lean?), pulled pork, and even how to make sausage with beef heart. 900 E. 11th St., Austin, 512/653-1187, franklinbarbecue.com, brisket $13/lb. Smitty's MarketOnce upon a time, the knives at Smitty's were chained to the tables as communal cutlery. Those days are gone, but the market still fancies itself a shrine to the state's culinary history. Beef shoulder clod has fallen from popularity in most spots, in favor of brisket, but here the cut comes beautifully marbled and moist. 208 S. Commerce St., Lockhart, 512/398-9344, smittysmarket.com, shoulder clod $10/lb. Cele StoreCele Store is only open for dinner on Fridays—football night!—and you need reservations, but this place is far from exclusive. Housed in an 1890s saloon, Cele feels like a honky-tonk. Choose from ribs, brisket, and smoky sausage (or all three). It all comes piled high with pickles and cheddar cheese. 18726 Cameron Rd., Manor, 512/869-9340, celestore.com, 3 meats $9.50 per person. Louie Mueller BarbecueYou'll wait in line here, and there's not much to look at aside from the smoke-darkened ceiling and the wall of soot-covered business cards. Well, there is the James Beard Award, awarded in 2006. We're sure the massive, Flintstone-worthy beef ribs, coated in a simple salt and cracked black pepper rub, had something to do with it. 206 W. 2nd St., Taylor, 512/352-6206, louiemuellerbarbecue.com, beef ribs $13/lb. City MarketThe beef with most Texas barbecue joints is that the sauce usually gets second billing. At City Market, however, the spicy, mustard-based concoction ups the ante; slather it on brisket for that extra kick. 633 E. Davis St., Luling, 830/875-9019, brisket $9/lb.