Just Back From... A 30-day cruise from San Diego to Lima, Peru

September 8, 2010
exitintsa_beautiful
For their maiden visit to South America—but not their first month-long cruise—Mary and Mike Peeples hit fourteen ports in seven countries, unpacking only once.

We're still laughing about... The lesson our group (average age 70) learned zip lining through the trees in Costa Rica: You are never too old to let loose with your best Tarzan yell.

Our favorite part... Unfettered access to Machu Picchu. [PHOTO] Most of the pictures I'd seen were taken from the entrance, giving me the impression that we would look out over the ancient Incan ruins from a roped-off area and not be allowed to get close. Wrong. The entire site is open. We wandered through the polished rock buildings, rested on farming terraces, and took breathtaking pictures of the neighboring peaks from the unending stairs.

Worth every penny... A room with a balcony! The scenery's always changing, and on this trip from San Diego to Peru on Holland America's Rotterdam, [PHOTO] we sailed by dolphins, turtles, whales, sea lions and, of course, other ships. I think there's a misconception that cruising is expensive, but we were entertained and fed non-stop for a month for far less than that would cost at home—trust me, this is our third 30-day cruise. We stopped in Mexico, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Panama, Peru, Ecuador, and Costa Rica. We needed the sea days to rest up—and we did, admiring the view from our balcony.

Great local meal... My husband eats street food without fear, whereas I am a cautious eaters. The answer is cruising, and we do best at a buffet.

Moment when things got tense... Just before we left. For a year, we'd been anticipating the train to Maccu Picchu as the highlight of the trip. [PHOTO], but due to railway flooding, the two-day overland journey wasn't back on the trip schedule until right before we sailed. [PHOTO] Past travel experience has taught us to be flexible: In 2008, a cyclone disaster nixed our stop in Myanmar, and on that same cruise, a terrorist attack on the Taj Hotel and rail station cancelled our visits to Mumbai and the Taj Mahal.

Never again... Will we kick off a cruise by flying to an embarkation port (at least, if we can help it.) We chose this trip partly because it didn't involve air travel, and it was so much less grueling—especially since the San Diego Amtrak terminal is located 1 block from the city's Cruise Port.

Overrated... The older Mexican tourism ports, like Acapulco and Cabo, felt like total tourist traps, selling rip off souvenirs and tequila. (Huatulco was beautiful.) [PHOTO] I ended up finding local treasures at almost every other port, including a beautiful yoga blanket in Huatulco, intricate silver jewelry in Peru, several pounds of coffee in Costa Rica, and woven textiles in Guatemala. [PHOTO]

Fun surprise... Returning from Maccu Picchu to Cusco through the snow-capped Andes Mountains after dark during a full moon. The way the huge peaks reflected the moonlight was a sight I'll never forget.

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America's Top College Football Towns

Austin, Tex. University of Texas Longhorns There's no shortage of sports-crazed towns in Texas—after all, the state is the inspiration (and setting) for the ode to high school football, Friday Night Lights. But as a weekend getaway destination, Austin trounces the competition. The perfect base for exploring this self-described "weird" city is the 40-room Hotel San José, a 1930s motor court turned boutique bungalow with reclaimed-pine platform beds and a wisteria-lined courtyard (1316 S. Congress Ave., sanjosehotel.com, from $95 with shared bath, doubles from $160 with private bath). It's right on South Congress Avenue (a.k.a. SoCo), a busy strip of kitschy souvenir shops and indie boutiques like Parts & Labour, where everything for sale—say, tees printed with "Remember the Oilers" and other Texas-centric slogans—is made by local designers (1117 S. Congress Ave., partsandlabour.com, T-shirts $22). Of course, live music is a huge part of the city's appeal, but the famous 6th Street spots can get uncomfortably crowded—especially on a game day. The East Side Show Room (part bar, part art gallery, and part music venue) effectively conveys Austin's eclectic vibe and offers the best odds for scoring some post-game breathing room (1100 E. 6th St., eastsideshowroom.com). Game-day tradition: With a history dating back to 1893, the Longhorns have had plenty of time to hone their rituals. The school song, "The Eyes of Texas" (set to the tune of "I've Been Working on the Railroad"), is more than a century old, and the fan-favorite "hook 'em horns" hand signal has been in play since 1955. And after every Longhorn touchdown at Darrell K. Royal–Texas Memorial Stadium, the roar of the 95,000-strong crowd is accompanied by the blast of a cannon—a booming manifestation of Lone Star State swagger. Get your tickets: texasboxoffice.com, from $70. Boise, Idaho Boise State University Broncos For the capital of a state best known as a top potato producer, Boise has a surprisingly fertile arts scene. The 112-room Hotel 43, named for its location on the 43rd parallel—and in the 43rd state—plays up the city's cultural offerings, presenting all guests with an Arts Passport (981 Grove St., hotel43.com, football package rates from $109) that covers free admission to the Boise Art Museum (670 Julia Davis Dr., boiseartmuseum.org), a 10-minute walk away, and free or discounted tickets to performances by Ballet Idaho, Opera Idaho, and the Boise Philharmonic. About five blocks away, the Basque Museum & Cultural Center is dedicated to promoting and preserving the history of the city's large Basque population, and the museum store stocks fun, handmade souvenirs like a Spanish leather bota wine bag and abarkak dancing shoes (611 Grove St., basquemuseum.com, closed Sun.–Mon., admission $4, bota $15, shoes from $40). There's no museum for potatoes in town—that's in Blackfoot, Idaho, four hours away—but The Boise Fry Co. comes close. At this local favorite, diners can order seven types of spuds, cut five different ways and topped with 15 choices of homemade seasonings and dipping sauces (smoked sea salt, blueberry ketchup) for more than 100,000 different edible options. One appropriately highbrow variety: the $8 Bourgeois, a plate of fine-cut fries flash-fried in duck fat and garnished with black truffle salt (111 Broadway, Suite 111, boisefrycompany.com, fries from $2.50). Game-day tradition: When Boise State first unfurled its stadium's royal-blue turf back in 1986, it was an attention-getting move, to be sure. But since then, the Broncos have made more headlines for their action on the field, as the team has evolved into a perennial football powerhouse with one of the best home records in NCAA history. At each game, the 32,000 fans come clad in a designated team color: blue, orange, white, or sometimes all three, divided by stadium section. Get your tickets: broncosports.com, from $30. Eugene, Ore. University of Oregon Ducks The state of Oregon is truly a drinker's paradise, thanks to the flourishing Willamette Valley wine scene and the craft-beer and micro-roast-coffee communities already firmly established there. Travelers can try some of the region's most famous (and certified sustainable) pinots in Eugene at the Territorial Vineyards tasting room, in an old coffee warehouse in the funky Whiteaker neighborhood (907 W. 3rd Ave., territorialvineyards.com, open Thurs. 5 p.m.–11 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 5 p.m.–9 p.m., tasting $7), before slipping around the corner to Ninkasi Brewing Company to sip its signature Total Domination IPA on a new outdoor patio (272 Van Buren St., ninkasibrewing.com, pint $4). No trip to Oregon is complete without a stop at one of the McMenamin brothers' joints—quirky restaurants, bars, and hotels typically housed in converted historic buildings. Just a block from the university campus, East 19th Street Café has pool tables, plenty of outdoor seating, and a list of five tap beers produced in the McMenamins' own breweries (1485 E. 19th Ave., mcmenamins.com). In keeping with the collegiate spirit, guests can stay the night at the Excelsior Inn, a nearly 100-year-old building that originally served as a sorority house. The 14-room B&B a block from Oregon's campus has cherry furniture and vaulted ceilings, and the restaurant's daily breakfasts are made with fresh eggs and organic produce from owner Maurizio Paparo's farm (754 E. 13th Ave., excelsiorinn.com, doubles from $99). Game-day tradition: Pregame partiers stay toasty warm at Moshofsky Sports Center (a.k.a. "the Mo"), which hosts a large portion of the 54,000 Ducks fans who will flood next door into Autzen Stadium before kickoff. It's one of the biggest indoor tailgate gatherings in the country, with live music, big-screen TVs, and appearances by the mascot, Donald Duck—the iconic character that Walt Disney himself approved for the university's use. Get your tickets: goducks.com, from $31. Knoxville, Tenn. University of Tennessee Volunteers Life in Knoxville revolves around the Tennessee River—it hugs the edge of the university campus and carries sightseers past the city center, thanks to boats like the 325-passenger Star of Knoxville, which gives 90-minute sightseeing tours (300 Neyland Dr., tnriverboat.com, cruises from $14.25). Top local barbecue spot Calhoun's, serving up award-winning baby-back ribs, creamy country-style coleslaw, and cornbread, sits right on the bank and is accessible by both water and land (400 Neyland Dr., calhouns.com, ribs from $13)—though swimming home on a full stomach is not encouraged (better to take a boat). A few blocks north of the river in downtown's Market Square area, the 28-room Hotel St. Oliver provides plenty of Southern charm—the 1876 building is decorated with period furniture and oil paintings in gilded frames (407 Union Ave., stoliverhotel.com, doubles from $89). The hotel is also within walking distance of Knoxville's most curious attraction, the 266-foot-tall Sunsphere: a golden glass ball built for the 1982 World's Fair. Game-day tradition: If you plan on tailgating at Tennessee, you'd better bring a life jacket. What started in 1962 as one man's attempt to beat traffic by traveling to Neyland Stadium by boat has turned into a fleet of 200 vessels, dubbed the Volunteer Navy, that docks on the Tennessee River before each game. Inside the 102,038-seat stadium, the country's fourth-largest, the bluegrass classic (and unofficial school anthem) "Rocky Top" is played at least 20 times a game. It's no surprise the Vols tend to win at home—what opposing team wouldn't be distracted by that? Get your tickets: utsports.com, from $40. Madison, Wis. University of Wisconsin Badgers Out-of-towners tend to think of one thing when the state of Wisconsin comes up: dairy. But there's more to Madison than cheddar and cheese curds. This southern Wisconsin city was actually at the forefront of the locavore movement, a fact that's reflected in the inventive homegrown offerings at the downtown Dane County Farmers Market, one of the largest farmers market in the country: Try raw milk and cave-aged cheeses from Bleu Mont Dairy or 12 varieties of Asian and European exotic pears from Future Fruit Farm (Capitol Square, Saturdays, dcfm.org). At local shop Fromagination, which specializes in picnic baskets loaded with locally made artisanal cheeses, the ecofriendly ethos spills out into the decor—the reclaimed-slate flooring once served as roof tiling on an abandoned Chicago warehouse, the tables are made of wood from a barn on a Wisconsin farm, and the clocks are circa 1917 from the state capitol (2 S. Carroll St., fromagination.com, picnic baskets from $25). It doesn't get much more local than the Babcock Hall Dairy Store, where students from the UW Food Science Department sell sweet concoctions made on-site, like scoops of Badger Blast ice cream—a chocolate base swirled with fudge and dark-chocolate flakes (1605 Linden Dr., babcockhalldairystore.wisc.edu, $2.50). A fitting end for any locavore dairy tour is the eight-room Arbor House hotel, a self-described "environmental inn" equipped with organic towels and energy-saving fixtures—along with views of the UW Arboretum (3402 Monroe St., arbor-house.com, doubles from $110). Game-day tradition: You almost need a manual to keep up with the traditions at Camp Randall Stadium. During the game, be prepared to participate in a finely choreographed version of the wave: first counterclockwise, then in slow motion, again at double-time, then reversed, and finally split into two counter-waves. After the third quarter ends, don't panic if you feel a rumble in the stands—it's just the 80,321 Badger fans taking the song "Jump Around" quite literally. Those with a surplus of team spirit can stick around for the nearly 45-minute postgame Fifth Quarter, a concert of favorites performed by the school's marching band. Get your tickets: uwbadgers.com, from $42. Manoa, Hawaii University of Hawaii Warriors Rainbows abound in Manoa, a residential neighborhood in a lush valley just east of urban Honolulu. All around, Pacific Island cuisine and culture rules; exploring the area like a native is the only way to go. A traditional Hawaiian plate lunch will give you a taste of daily life in the islands—at Rainbow Drive-In, meals generally include an entrée plus two scoops of white rice and one scoop of macaroni salad or coleslaw; the loco moco, a beef patty topped with a fried egg and gravy, is a popular order (3308 Kanaina Ave., rainbowdrivein.com, plate lunches from $5.75, loco moco $6.75). Any local is likely to cite the Makapu'u Point Lighthouse Trail, a moderate two-mile hike on the southeastern tip of Oahu as a favorite spot to watch the sun rise. The route is filled with sweeping views of the coastline, including Koko Head and Koko Crater, and leads to a lookout above the red-roofed 1909 Makapu'u Lighthouse, where you may even be able to spot a humpback when whale-watching season starts in November. The 72-room Hotel Renew, just a block from Kuhio Beach on the island's south side, has spa-inspired touches like dimmable lighting systems, shoji screens, and kimono robes. (129 Paoakalani Ave., hotelrenew.com, doubles from $140). Game-day tradition: Most teams have a pregame warm-up, but at the 50,000-seat Aloha Stadium, the Warriors take it to a new level. Their performance of the ha'a war chant was originally modeled after a dance by a New Zealand rugby team, but the players have since made it their own; the meaning of the words is top-secret. According to Hawaiian superstition, the ti plant brings good luck, so fans wave the glossy, oval-shaped leaves during the game—visitors can pick up a bunch at Tamashiro Market (802 N. King St., 808/841-8047) and most flower shops. Tip: The best seats for day games are located along the shaded Makai sideline; be sure to check the stadium map when buying tickets. Get your tickets: hawaiiathletics.com, from $25. Morgantown, W.Va. West Virginia University Mountaineers As a coal town set at the intersection of the Appalachian foothills and the Rust Belt, Morgantown is filled with reminders of its industrial history—but this unassuming city is far from stuck in the past. In Morgantown's Wharf District, a stretch of converted warehouses now hold a riverside bistro, a historic train depot, and the 205-room Waterfront Place Hotel, which overlooks the mighty Monongahela River (2 Waterfront Pl., waterfrontplacehotel.com, doubles from $139). Just outside the hotel, the city's Caperton Trail system begins, branching off into six miles of paths along an old railroad route—ideal for a pregame walk. Another reclaimed relic from the city's history is the Seneca Center, a shopping complex built inside the old Seneca Glass Company building, completed in 1896; a small glassmaking museum on-site makes for an educational break from browsing for handmade soap and clothing by independent designers (709 Beechurst Ave., senecacenter.com). Perhaps the tastiest reference to the past can be found at the new Morgantown Brewing Company, where the extensive selection of microbrews includes Zack Morgan's Pale Ale, a copper beer with a citrus aroma and an initial bite of American Cascade hops, named after Morgantown founder Zackquill Morgan (1291 University Ave., morgantownbrewing.com, pint from $4). Game-day tradition: About 60,000 people trek into Milan Puskar Stadium for every home game—temporarily making it the biggest city in the state. Since 1972, the marching band has played John Denver's "Take Me Home, Country Roads" before every game—and should the Mountaineers prevail, fans stick around to sing it again, even louder. Get your tickets: wvugame.com, from $45. Oxford, Miss. University of Mississippi Rebels With a population of about 19,000, Oxford is a small town with a big Southern heritage—long on literary talent and with a penchant for (tasteful) partying. Visitors can learn about famous son William Faulkner at Rowan Oak, the 1840s Greek Revival plantation house on 33 acres just outside campus that he called home until his death in 1962. Along with Faulkner's actual Underwood typewriter, the outline for his Pulitzer Prize–winning novel, A Fable, can be seen—scrawled in pencil on the plaster wall of his office (Old Taylor Rd., oldmiss.edu, $5). Keep it literary by exploring the Southern-author selection downtown at Square Books. Bonus: The indie bookstore has an upstairs café and a 90-foot-long balcony overlooking the Square, where browsers are free to linger as long as they'd like (160 Courthouse Square, squarebooks.com). The no-frills down-home cooking at Ajax Diner, just down the street, hits all the Southern-staple high notes—chicken and dumplings, fried catfish—plus more adventurous offerings like hot-tamale pie and spicy cheese grits stuffed with smoked pork, corn, and tomatoes; the restaurant's generously sized Bloody Marys are garnished with spears of pickled okra (118 Courthouse Square, ajaxdiner.net, entrées from $10, Bloody Mary $6). A similar update on old-school style can be found at The 5 Twelve Bed and Breakfast, just east of campus: Set in an antebellum home with 12-foot-high ceilings and a wraparound porch, the hotel's six guest rooms are decorated with colorful graphic Marimekko textiles (the Finnish company has a store in town) and other modern accents (512 Van Buren Ave., the512oxford.com, doubles from $105). Game-day tradition: College football games and button-down shirts rarely go hand in hand, but at the 60,580-seat Vaught–Hemingway Stadium, Southern gentility is on display throughout the season; fans are expected to wear their Sunday best (ties for men, heels and dresses for ladies). Even the tailgate party has a classy spin: At the 10-acre Grove—a grassy expanse in the center of campus named for its abundance of oak, elm, and magnolia trees—tents are decked out with chandeliers, candelabras, fine china, lace doilies, and tablecloths. A common saying on the Grove: "We may not win every game, but we've never lost a party." With a catchphrase like that, it's no wonder Oxford is nicknamed the "Little Easy." Get your tickets: olemisssports.com, from $25.

Putting TripIt.com to the Test

Before My Trips Nobody likes getting an e-mail with the word "problem" in the subject line. In the month after registering for tripit.com, a website designed to streamline your reservations and other travel information (with handy supplemental data like weather forecasts and hotel cancellation policies), I received five different e-mails with the same subject line: "Problem with your TripIt submission." Why? According to support@tripit.com, "We received your e-mail (Subject Line: Fwd: Azores confirmation) but had a problem processing it. This typically happens when your e-mail is not from one of our currently supported booking sites." So, which booking sites does it support? A lot, actually—over 1,000, including everything from well-known airline carriers like Cathay Pacific and JetBlue to obscure travel agencies like Horncastle Executive Travel and California Limousines. So for most people, and most trips, those "problem" e-mails are few and far between. But all it takes is using one site TripIt doesn't support to throw a wrench into the system—and to turn a time-saving tool into a hassle. I was asked to rate tripit.com on three different levels based on my own personal trips. All of them—a Catskills road trip, a Croatia-to-Switzerland train journey, and a series of island-hopping flights and ferry rides through the Azores—were ultimately too complicated or off-the-beaten-path to maximize the tool. On the Road The best feature of tripit.com is the automated trip planner that allows users to forward their confirmation numbers to an e-mail address and voilá! The system automatically understands where you are and where you're going and stores all the addresses and phone numbers of your hotels and agencies. The site seems to cater to trips where you fly somewhere, rent a car, and stay at a nearby hotel. But if you're flying into JFK and then driving north a couple of hours to a cabin in the Catskills, the only way that TripIt can recognize your final destination is if you manually enter it into the system—its mobile app is not GPS-enabled and does not track your location in real time. My BlackBerry can determine my precise location in Google Maps using cellular triangulation technology, but for some reason, TripIt's app isn't able to do the same. The verbiage in the "problem" e-mail illustrates two major kinks in the site. The first is the idea that anything is typical when it comes to travel. Airlines and airports have spent decades trying to streamline the language and codes of traveling. Tripit.com, launched in 2007, is a Johnny-come-lately to the game and doesn't exactly solve the puzzle. Not all languages are supported, and as a result, it failed to recognize foreign spelling of train stations in Italy. More significant, you can't change your itinerary on the mobile app, so if plans change—as they most likely will—you'll have to hunt down a computer to stay organized. Another flaw: Tripit.com assumes that all reservations arrive via e-mail. But as is the case in many parts of the world, I had to buy my train tickets the analog way—at a train station in Croatia. Even if TripIt did recognize the codes, I'd have to manually add the various legs of the journey into the system: Trieste to Venice, Venice to Milan, Milan to Zurich. Since I couldn't set the record straight on my BlackBerry, the entire time I was in Croatia TripIt thought I was in Venice, my point of arrival, and kept giving me unhelpful Venice advice. I also could have used real-time train updates: My train from Venice to Milan was 20 minutes late (not surprisingly), but the Swiss train to Zurich was (uncharacteristically) late as well, so I needn't have sweated the connection—I was already sweating enough in the un-air-conditioned car. The verdict C+. When it works, TripIt provides helpful info. But when it doesn't, it requires you to manually add things yourself, which is a pain. I'll keep it, and continue to use it, but on a probation period. I'd like to see adjustments and upgrades made to the entire system—particularly to the mobile app. PREVIOUS TEST LABS Need a translator? These apps decode foreign languages...without WiFi! Find out just how useful the iPad is as a travel tool. Just how invincible is your travel gear? We put four popular items to the test.

Sweet Deals, Near and Far

Earlier this spring, my husband and I were invited to a backyard wedding outside of Paris. We embraced the chance to make a European summer vacation out of it—until we started searching for flights. After losing countless hours toggling between the pages of itasoftware.com and every online travel agency imaginable, I settled on a fare that we could stomach—albeit at the same price I paid to get to Tokyo a year earlier. Overpaying did have one pleasant side effect: It forced us to seek out good deals even more aggressively than we would have otherwise. Instead of a hotel, we rented an adorable apartment in the Marais through vrbo.com. We cooked each night, picking up warm baguettes from a local boulangerie. And we passed a pretty great afternoon snagging designer clothes for 50 percent off at the A.P.C. Surplus store (011-33/1-42-62-10-88, apc.fr). As rewarding as it was researching our own deals, sometimes it's awfully nice when someone else just tells you where to find them. In this issue, we've done just that. Our package of 40 affordable finds across Europe can serve as your guide and save you all sorts of money, not to mention time-consuming legwork. Even if Europe isn't on your to-do list (though the dollar won't be this strong forever!), I can guarantee you'll get value out of our fifth-annual Coolest Small Towns in America feature. This reader-generated list of 10 hometown escapes is a boisterous celebration of simple pleasures in small places. Ely, Minn.—2010's number one spot, which picked up 118,899 votes out of the nearly 440,000 overall—may not earn you a passport stamp, but there's no question that it'll be a memory no less exciting, and this one in our very own backyard.

8 Fall-Foliage Cruises

Casco Bay, Maine Operating out of South Freeport, Maine—home to the L.L. Bean flagship store—Atlantic Seal Cruises offers passengers the chance to see more than just the changing maple trees. On the nearly three-hour-long outings through Casco Bay, passengers often spot cruisers often spot photo-worthy wildlife like seals basking on the shore, and the crew occasionally hauls up lobster traps along the route to demonstrate how to measure and band the tasty crustaceans. atlanticsealcruises.com, Sept. 15–Oct. 31, $35. Timing Tip: Check up on how the leaves are changing at the state's official fall foliage site, which starts publishing reports Sept. 15. Atlantic Ocean, New England and Canada Talk about making a splash. With 12 departures this fall, MSC Cruises' full-scale ocean voyages cover some of North America's most spectacular leaf-peeping territory. For it's inaugural stateside season, the Europe-based company is sending the 2,550-passenger MSC Poesia between New York and Quebec, with ports of call at Prince Edward Island; Halifax, Nova Scotia; Newport, R.I.; Boston; and Bar Harbor, Maine, to name a few. Not quite ready to kiss warm weather good-bye? MSC's October 23 cruise, Autumn Leaves to Palm Trees, drops travelers at Fort Lauderdale for one last beach fling. atlanticsealcruises.com, select departures in Sept. and Oct., from $599 (price is for a six-night cruise and includes meals). msccruises-us.com. Timing Tip: For updates on foliage around New England, visit Yankee Magazine's fall foliage chronicles. Hudson River, N.Y. Times Square, the Empire State Building¿world-class fall foliage? One of the Big Apple's best-kept secrets comes to life each year north of Manhattan. Circle Line Downtown's five-hour cruises depart from the city's South Street Seaport select Saturdays at 11a.m., bound for the Hudson River Valley, where they sail past a handful of well-groomed state parks and historic small towns like Sleepy Hollow. With an open sundeck and two enclosed lower decks, there's plenty to do on board: continental breakfast and lunch, a complimentary wine tasting, and college football games broadcast on satellite TV. But once the boat passes Bear Mountain Bridge, all eyes turn to the banks. Watching the pops of red, burnt orange, and yellow on either side of the 400-passenger catamaran, you'll feel like New York City is worlds away. Book and arrive early—there's no reserved seating. circlelinedowntown.com, Saturdays Oct. 23–Nov. 6, $120 (includes meals). Connecticut River, Conn. It's only been operating for about 40 years, but the Essex Steam Train and Riverboat package transports passengers straight back to the 19th century. After boarding a vintage railcar at the 1892 Essex Station in Essex, Conn., riders sip warm apple cider as the coal-powered train chugs up to Deep River Landing, about four miles north. There, the three-level, 220-passenger Becky Thatcher riverboat waits to take sightseers on a 90-minute cruise from Deep River to East Haddam, providing a spectacular survey of birch, dogwood, sumac, and maple trees—plus the state's trademark white oaks—along the way. Reserve tickets ahead for weekend trips, which often sell out; typically, colors are at their peak for two to three weeks following Columbus Day (this year that means October 8 to 24). essexsteamtrain.com, Thursdays through Mondays Sept. 30–Oct. 25, $26. Timing Tip: Before the "all-aboard!" peruse the state's foliage reports. Tennessee River, Ala. What other afternoon cruise claims a hospitality director as part of its crew? On the Pickwick Belle, that's just one part of its old-school Southern charm. Other genteel touches on the old-fashioned, 149-passenger paddlewheeler: plenty of upper-deck benches for relaxing through a 90-minute ride, and lunches in the lower dining room for longer trips. Bonus¿the state's warmer climate means the trees (mainly poplar, dogwood, maple and hickory) don't hit peak color until late October, so you have more time to plan your departure. Cruises depart from Florence Harbor Marina in Alabama or Pickwick Landing State Park in Tennessee. pickwickbelle.com, select Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday departures starting Oct. 9, $22. Timing Tip: Check out the Alabama Tourism Department's official website for more details on foliage. Illinois River, Ill. Consider it a vote of confidence that most of the Spirit of Peoria's two- and three-night itineraries from Peoria, Ill. to St. Louis are already sold out. Luckily, latecomers can still book the 487-passenger paddleboat's overnight trip, which combines a 70-mile journey through vibrant sycamores, maples, and oaks with a one-night stay at Starved Rock Lodge, in Utica, Ill. The package provides onboard entertainment like live banjo and ragtime piano music and covers all meals, drinks, lodging, and a guided hike through Starved Rock State Park in the afternoon. Owner and captain Alex Grieves—who goes on nearly every Spirit of Peoria excursion—says his favorite (read: the best) weekend is usually in mid to late October. This year, he's looking forward to the Oct. 18 to 19 cruise for optimal colors. spiritofpeoria.com, select Monday–Tuesday cruises through Oct. 25, from $279 (includes ticket, overnight at Starved Rock Lodge, guided hikes, and all meals and drinks). Lake Taneycomo, Branson, Mo. After an unseasonably wet summer, Missouri is primed for a rare explosion of fall colors. And Lake Taneycomo, just northeast of Branson, is a perfect place to revel in it. Branson Landing Cruises' two boats, the elegant Lake Queen paddleboat and the tricked-out, 100-foot,luxury yacht Landing Princess cover five different options, including lunch cruises, dinner cruises, and no-frills sightseeing itineraries that depart each morning and afternoon. Because the Ozarks are home to a wider range of trees than many Northeast forests—and they all turn colors in different time frames—it pays to be aware of when your favorites will be in top form. (Sassafras and sumac trees typically go earlier, while oaks, hickories, and others continue to turn well into October.) Whenever you go, there's another sight worth keeping an eye out for: the memorable morning show of eagles and herons drying the day's dew from their wings. bransonlandingcruises.com, select departures in Sept. and Oct., $16 for sightseeing cruises, $26 for lunch cruises, $40 for dinner cruises. Timing Tip: Check Missouri's fall color guide for more details on foliage. Columbia and Snake Rivers, Ore./Wash. What Oregon lacks in autumnal Technicolor splendor it makes up for in pure ruggedness. On one of 13 cruises sailing this fall from Cruise West, leaf peepers can take in the picturesque Multnomah Falls, the 4,000-foot-deep Columbia gorges, and the snowcapped Cascades while tracing nearly 1,000 miles of Lewis and Clark's famous route. (Also featured on the weeklong round-trip cruises sailing out of Portland: stops at wineries in Walla Walla, Wash.) The trips are made exclusively by the Spirit of Discovery and Spirit of '98, two small-scale coastal steamers that max out at about 100 passengers. If your travel dates are flexible, sign up for Cruise West's Stowaway option—you'll get 25% off to take any slot within a 30-day travel window. cruisewest.com, Sept. and Oct. departures for eight-day cruises, from $3,299 (includes everything except alcohol). Timing Tip: For more on the area's colors, check up on foliage reports online or call Oregon's Fall Foliage Hotline (800/547-5445).