Low-Tech Time Travel

Holly Morris: Hi there, Holly Morris here. Fire away with your questions! _______________________ Redmond, WA: Will be traveling to AZ the end of June with our two teenagers, 12 & 15. One week in Tucson, 1-2 days up in Grand Canyon, and three days in Phoenix. What would you suggest are the MUST SEE & DO there? Also, my son is very interested in rocks & minerals- is there anywhere he can actually go digging? Thank you. Holly Morris: Hiking with your teenagers is a great bonding experience. If you're into a more dramatic, rougher hike, the Kaibab is supposed to be the route for you. It's 3 miles round-trip - so bring your water bottle. Near Mathers point there's an excellent lookout and visitors center - and I bet your son could get his fill of info on rocks and minerals there. The Bright Angels trail - which is less rough than Kaibab - will mostly likely bring a visit from the California Condors... _______________________ Aspen, CO: I'm an Aunt to a wonderful nephew & niece. I love to travel, so for their college graduation "gift" I'd planned on taking them on a trip overseas. Thanks to information I found in "Budget Travel" 3 years ago, I was able to take my nephew to Florence, Italy for 6 days. It's now my niece's turn! She'd love a destination which involves a BEACH; I've been looking at Greece, but am open to suggestions. Due to my job (I work in a winter/summer resort town) and the need to save some money, travel must be in the spring or fall of 2007. I'm single, work full-time, and of course will be paying for 2 people - HELP Budget Travel! Holly Morris: What a wonderful tradition Auntie. If you're feeling sporty, I'd recommend going to the amazing beaches and delicious culture of Bahia, Brazil. There's a wonderful fishing village called Itacare that has a range of accommodations. And you two can go to surf camp - no experience necessary. and not too expensive. Check out easydrop.com and I think the town of Itacare has a site too. You can google it.. Hang ten. _______________________ Canton (Atlanta), GA: Next year, I and several of my friends will be turning 50 years "young." Rather than looking at this milestone negatively, I would like to make it an event to look forward to. I would love to go on a group (girls) trip to experience someplace and something out of the ordinary (such as the zipline thru the jungles of Costa Rica or Belize), yet be able to relax and be pampered as well - all of this on a relatively low budget of course! Where would you suggest, and what time of year would be best? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks -Cathy Holly Morris: Georgia Ladies -well I am biased - but I think you should go on an Adventure Diva tour trip! We're taking groups of women to India, Peru, Brazil and New Zealand throughout 2007. Check out adventuredivas.com And a few literary companions? How about the anthologies of Seal Press' Adventura series - books by and about women travelers. Or, the classic girl roadtrip book 'Bad Girls Guide To The Open Road'. _______________________ Albuquerque, NM: My husband and I are seeking a romantic destination for celebrating our 10th wedding anniversary. Any suggestions? Holly Morris: If you would like to stay relatively close to home, how about a romantic houseboat trip on Lake Powell? A little bubbly while bobbing on gentle waters at sunset? And plenty of privacy. _______________________ Spring Lake, MI: My husband and I will be celebrating our 40th anniversary this summer and would like to plan a rail trip "Out West". We have traveled all over the world, but have never seen the Grand Canyon. Any suggestions for an itinerary? Thank You for your consideration, Ann Holly Morris: I hear there's a train that goes right INTO the rim lodge area of the Grand Canyon. Stay at El Tovar - the original oldest hotel. Make your reservations at their fab restaurant well in advance. Go to Xantara's website to make all your reservations for the Grand Canyon....Happy anniversary Ann. _______________________ Sierra Vista, AZ: Mom and I want to go on a European Cruise. If we could only go once in a lifetime, which one should we do? Holly Morris: Sorry I am not up on European cruises - but - I know 3 sisters who took their mom to Alaska on a cruise and gave the trip rave reviews. Spirit Cruises go up the Inside Passage in Alaska are supposed to be the best. They're a bit smaller, and the food is better than the rest of the cruise fare. As for the landscape - stunning, pristine, unique. Might want to read a book about the AK experiences of author Jonathan Raban to get excited.... _______________________ Santa Fe, NM: What is your definition of an "adventure diva"? Holly Morris: Dear Sante Fe, Glad you asked. An Adventure Diva is a woman to chases her passions fully, and fearlessly - and has a healthy sense of humor. She can be an activist, artist, a politico, a filmmaker etc. Has more to do with her approach to life as an adventure and a commitment to changing the world around her. For the expanded idea (and in a bit of shameless self-promotion) check out adventuredivas.com or my book Adventure Divas. _______________________ Sandusky, OH: My husband and I are driving to S. Dakota in November. We will be at Ft. Pierre on Nov 6, to see the buffalo and also where Dances with Wolves was shot. Since we are drving we can go anywhere in the area. What should we not miss? Anything else to see along the way from Ohio to S. Dakota? Thanks for your help. Holly Morris: Badlands Nat'l park, the Black Hills, Consider reading Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee. Of course Mt. Rushmore (see North by Nortwest before you leave) And perhaps MOST importantly - Wall Drug is a must. (and even though it's the other Dakota, watch Fargo before you head out. The pregger cop/hero is a major Adventure Diva!) _______________________ Ventura, CA: I'm a 40 year old single woman who has a 2 week trip to Fiji planned in July 2006. Airfare is already paid but my travel partner suddenly can't go. I don't want to hang out in resorts the whole time, but what are safe options for traveling alone in Fiji? Lucy Holly Morris: Lucy - I've not been to Fiji so I can't offer specifics but I would offer the general advice of GO AND ENJOY. Your partner's dropping out of the picture may be a great opportunity to have an entirely different, self-determined, unexpected adventure. And as for safety - just apply the same rules on the road as you do at home. Be smart, aware and don't let fear restrict you. I agree that you might want to limit your time in resorts. Court the unexpected! For connections and specific advice on that area look at Lonely Planet's Thorntree Forum. bon voyage - _______________________ New York, NY: Every June, in celebration of our wedding anniversary, my husband and I travel abroad. This year our son (he'll be nine months old come June)will be accompanying us. Any suggestions as to where we might go? We've been warned to keep it simple especially since we have a little one now but we refuse to sacrifice adventure and the opportunity to discover hidden gems. All inclusives and cruises don't suit our taste. We're exploring the possibility of staying in a beachhouse (or something comparable) somewhere in Panama or Honduras. Any recommendations that you may be able to provide would be greatly appreciated. Holly Morris: Good for you for not curbing your adventurous spirit due to baby. That's what slings are for, eh? Check into Tulum for beach and archeology. The area is kid-friendly and not too touristy (though there are plenty of services). Costa Rica or Panama for nature hikes, bird-watching and beach. _______________________ Madison, WI: Dear Trip Coach, I just finished my Ph.D. after 11 long years in college. My boyfriend is treating me to an all expenses paid week long vacation at a location of my choosing. We have quick access to the major airports in Detroit or Chicago and would like to spend less than 8 hours getting to our destination. We like urban areas with interesting shops and restaurants, but also enjoy outdoor activities such as bike-riding, swimming and day hiking. We plan to go for 5-7days between August 1st and the 13th.so we have a little flexibility in our dates. I know there are some great areas to visit in August but, honestly, I can't think of where to go. I'm failing my vacation final! We appreciate any ideas we could explore. Thanks. Stacey Holly Morris: Two places come immediately to mind: Seattle, WA and Vancouver BC Seattle is a hip, cosmopolitan city with great shopping (including vintage stores to die for if that interests you), live music and narcotic grade coffee that will keep you perky. AND it is nestled between the Cascade and Olympic mountain ranges which would offer you all the outdoor adventure you could ask for. And August is gorgeous there - no rain. 2 and a half hours north (driving) of Seattle is the city of Vancouver - which is more of an international city than Seattle and offers better nightlife (clubs etc). Vancouver, like Seattle, has great outdoor adventure opportunities - there's Stanley Park where you can rent bikes, and mountains and sea are at your doorstep. Great Native American culture & art - the anthropology museum in Vancouver is amazing. Good Indian food and Chinatown. And shop on Robeson street. alrighty then - book your tix and enjoy. _______________________ Holly Morris: Thanks for all your great questions! Signing off, Holly _______________________

One of the best things about traveling is that you get to leave your home and all the stuff that drags you down. Well, most of it anyway. (Do you really need to pack that second pair of jeans? The reversible parka that's spent its entire shelf life on the shelf?) I decided to challenge myself: I just completed a month-long, bag-free trip through Central America. I ran the full length with nothing but the clothes I was wearing: cargo pants, maroon T-shirt, and gray fleece tied at the waist. On my person was an American passport, a Visa credit card, about $50, a toothbrush, a tiny Canon digital camera with extra battery, a Ziploc bag of vitamins, and a copy of The Kite Runner, whose chapters I tore off as I read them. Begging for toothpaste, it turns out, is a great way to make new friends. "Travel light and you can sing in the robber's face," the ancient Roman poet Juvenal claimed. By going luggage-less, I had peace of mind, knowing I wouldn't easily fall victim to theft, damage, or loss. As a result, I was able to hitch rides from the driver of an 18-wheeler truck (Panama to Nicaragua), two Polish land speculators in a Land Rover (Nicaragua to Honduras), and a French woman driving a pickup truck loaded with fresh honey to her home in Chiapas. With public transportation, I never had to pay extra for bags (a common practice in Latin America) or tip a bellhop. On the beautiful colonial island of Flores, where red retrofitted motorcycle taxis whisk one to and fro for fifty cents, I zipped over to the airstrip on a whim and boarded a domestic flight to Guatemala City about five minutes before it took off. I didn't freak out when the border ferry to Mexico (a canoe, truth be told) had room for barely one more passenger. Ease of transportation is a primary benefit of the luggage-less voyage; I could find rides anywhere. I witnessed a mafia hit in a Salvadoran fruit market with three local surfers, and jumped in their car à la The Dukes of Hazzard (try pulling that sort of slick getaway maneuver with a 5,000 cubic inch internal-frame backpack). In Tikal, the site of Mayan jungle pyramids--the tallest structures in the western hemisphere until the construction of the Brooklyn Bridge in 1886--I managed to find an Iranian tour group heading back on the road toward Belize, and they were generous enough to share a seat on their air-conditioned bus. Something tells me my fortunes might have been different had I been loitering in that parking lot with a suitcase. Yes, my lack of luggage did raise suspicions, among travelers and government officials alike. Border crossings were particularly interesting. Unsurprisingly, immigration agents were annoyed, as they clearly missed the opportunity to rummage through my bags in search of weapons or smuggled Rambo bubble gum. What about washing clothes? An amused agent asked, "vas a recorrer mi tierra desnudo?" ("You gonna run around my country naked?") A valid point. To anyone who would emulate this daring mode of travel, be advised: you will stink. Especially if you feel compelled to play basketball in the early afternoon sun in Costa Rica's colorful Caribbean port of Limón. I would recommend a second pair of socks; you can streamline by putting one in each pocket. Sweaty T-shirts and boxer briefs doubling as swim trunks can be dried in transit by hanging them from a car window (assuming the vehicle has windows). Body odor notwithstanding, I was free to walk anywhere at any time and to completely improvise and revise my itinerary in liberating fits of spontaneity. All of which brought me into more intimate interaction with the people and places I came to visit. Next time, though, I might bring deodorant.

Wev'e created three Google maps--one for each city--that show where each destination is located. FRANCE Château VilletteAix-en-Provence thedavincicodechateau.com Hôtel du Champ de Mars7 rue du Champ de MarsParis hotel-du-champ-de-mars.com Hôtel Étoile Péreire146 boulevard PéreireParis etoilepereire.com Hotel Ritz15 place VendômeParis ritzparis.com Musée du LouvreRue de RivoliParis louvre.fr Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport paris-cdg.com Saint-SulpicePlace Saint-SulpiceParis parisinfo.com ENGLAND Belvoir CastleLeicestershire belvoircastle.com Burghley HouseStamford, Lincolnshire burghley.co.uk The Jenkins Hotel45 Cartwright GardensLondon jenkinshotel.demon.co.uk Kings Cross StationLondon networkrail.co.uk London Luton Airport london-luton.co.uk St. James ParkSt James Park StationLondon Temple ChurchLondon Vancouver Studios30 Prince's SquareLondon vancouverstudios.co.uk Waterloo StationLondon networkrail.co.uk Westminster Abbey120 Dean's YardLondon SCOTLAND Edinburgh airport edinburghairport.com Ibis Edinburgh Centre6 Hunter SquareEdinburgh ibishotel.com Edinburgh Waverley StationWaverley BridgeEdinburgh networkrail.co.uk Rosslyn ChapelRoslin rosslynchapel.org.uk The SteadingRoslin roslin.org.uk Need help? More on Google maps

GETTING AROUND We envisioned a 10-night trip in mid-June, with round-trip airfare to Paris, connection to London by train or plane, connection to Edinburgh by train or plane, and then a flight back to Paris. Getting to and from Paris: Here are the lowest round-trip fares we found: $918 (multiple carriers) from New York City; $1,221 (American) from Chicago; $1,303 (American) from Atlanta; $1,215 (multiple carriers) from Los Angeles; $1,299 (Northwest) from Seattle. Getting to London: We'd recommend making the hour-and-a-half flight from Paris Charles de Gaulle to London Luton on a low-cost carrier such as EasyJet. We found a one-way rate of $27 (21 euros). Alternatively, you could opt for the Chunnel, a high-speed Eurostar train crossing under the English Channel in two hours and 40 minutes. It departs from London's Waterloo Station and arrives in Paris's Gare du Nord, both centrally located. We found a one-way ticket for $192 (£149). Getting to Edinburgh: It's an hour-and-a-half flight from London Gatwick on EasyJet starting at $30 (£16). Alternatively, hop on the National Rail for a four-hour journey from London Kings Cross to Edinburgh Waverly, both downtown stations. Rates start at $24 (£12.50). Getting back to Paris: Edinburgh to Paris is not as common a route and isn't serviced by EasyJet or RyanAir. We did find a one-way flight on British Airways for $229 (£125), including taxes and fees. WHERE TO SLEEP PARIS Hôtel du Champ de Mars: Expect a quaint, vaguely 1970s vibe and midsize rooms at this underpriced charmer in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. The hotel is around the corner from rue Cler, a colorful, bustling street crammed with little shops-a plus in a district with a less-than-vibrant street life. Doubles from $100 (79 euros). 7 rue du Champ de Mars, 01/45-51-52-30, hotel-du-champ-de-mars.com Hôtel Étoile Péreire: Discreetly swank, and a 15-minute stroll from the Arc de Triomphe. All 26 rooms are individually decorated to evoke a certain design era (art deco, Rm. 409) or place (India, Rm. 306). Quiet is assured: Rooms with upholstered walls open to an airy courtyard, with the exception of Rm. 101, which is soundproof but doesn't open to the outdoors. Doubles from $151 (119 euros). 146 boulevard Péreire, 01/42-67-60-00, etoilepereire.com LONDON Vancouver Studios: The large but simple rooms are self-contained apartments, with full kitchens and antique-style decor, but the real draw is the secluded, leafy garden out back--a fountain-filled oasis away from the bustle of the streets nearby. Friendly staff, doubles from $170 (£90). 30 Prince's Sq., 20/7243-1270, vancouverstudios.co.uk The Jenkins Hotel: Comfy, traditional B&B in a Georgian town house with a low-key, friendly vibe; large, if overly floral bedrooms; and an affable owner who'll happily help with tips on London. Doubles from $160 (£85). 45 Cartwright Gardens, 20/7387-2067, jenkinshotel.demon.co.uk SCOTLAND Ibis Edinburgh Centre: Near the luminous Tron Church, the Ibis brags bright, well-kept rooms with satellite TV, and the upper floors have heart-swelling views over the rooftops. Doubles from $94 (£60). 6 Hunter Sq., 131/240-7000, ibishotel.com The Steading, Roslin: A red-stone converted farmhouse nearby Rosslyn Chapel with spacious, pastel-colored bedrooms on the ground floor. Doubles from $125 (£70), includes a hearty Scottish breakfast. Roslin, Midlothian EH25 9PU, 131/440-1608, roslin.org.uk/start.htm RELATED ARTICLES Paris Snap Guide My Paris Is Better Than Yours New Museums in Paris London Snap Guide Learning to Love London Trip Coach: Tracing Roots in Scotland Edinburgh's Budget Charms