Machu Picchu: A German robbed it first!

By Laura MacNeil
October 3, 2012

It turns out that Yale professor/explorer Hiram Bingham wasn't the first Westerner to discover (and plunder) the ruins of Machu Picchu after all, according to BBC News. A German entrepreneur who owned a sawmill in the region discovered the ruins 40 years earlier—and ransacked the site, selling artifacts to European museums on the sly.

The new information came to light when historians stumbled across an old map in Peru's national museum and started tracing its source. The fact is, Peru's historical sites are poorly protected and being continuously looted to this day. Amazingly, Machu Picchu still has an extraordinary presence, a feat made all the more impressive considering how much abuse (tourists notwithstanding) it's had to endure. Indeed, I count it as one of my favorite travel experiences.

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Affordable Europe: Don't forget the ferries

Ferries offer a fun, cost-effective twist on European vacations. Get inspired: Heading between Britain and Ireland? Cheap train-plus-ferry combination tickets can be purchased at any British or Irish station offering the service. London-Dublin ferry tickets start at £27 (about $53) each way for both train and ferry, via Holyhead in Wales. (You can even buy the tickets at the station on your day of departure.) For comparison's sake, let's say you flew instead between Britain and Ireland. Putting aside the plane ticket cost, the commuter train from central London to the airport would cost around £13 (about $25) on its own, making the train+ferry fare a relative bargain. See www.seat61.com/Ireland.htm. Going from London to Amsterdam? London to Amsterdam overnight (saving a hotel bill!) costs £59 one-way (about $116) including a private cabin with shower/toilet on the Harwich-Hook of Holland Ferry. You leave central London 8 p.m., arrive in Amsterdam just after 10 a.m. next morning. See www.dutchflyer.co.uk or www.seat61.com/Netherlands.htm. Exploring the Mediterranean? How about a cruise ferry from Italy to Greece? Several ferry companies make this run, but the best operator on the shortest crossing is generally superfast.com from Bari to Patras (just 3-4 hours train ride from Athens by a scenic, narrow gauge train). Or you can cruise direct from Venice: www.minoan.gr and www.anek.gr both sail this route. If you fancy staying on a Greek island, but aren't sure which ferry goes there, start with the Greek ferry website, www.ferries.gr. Ferries are also indispensable in the Baltic. Two operators link Stockholm with Helsinki overnight. The evening departure is wonderfully scenic, swiftly passing through some Swedish islands: silja.com and vkingline.com. You’ll also find ships between Helsinki and Tallinn (silja.com, tallink.ee and others) and Stockholm & Tallinn (tallink.ee). —Mark Smith, blogging from Britain for our Affordable Europe series. See his previous post on saving on trains in Europe.

Affordable Europe: Italy by bus, train, and tram

Public transportation in Italy (and in Europe as a whole) may be this summer's most affordable method of sightseeing. Buses and trams (funiculars) often follow routes that will drop you off directly at the best monuments and most scenic viewpoints—for a much lower cost than hired cars and double-decker red buses. Be aware: Italian subways (metros) do not navigate the city as efficiently as their Paris, London, or New York cousins—nor are they remotely as attractive. So, follow this rule of thumb: skip the subways and stay above ground. One exception to the above guideline: If you're visiting Naples, you should know that some artists are enhancing their station stops with temporary exhibitions and installations. Napoli's stations, for example, are curated and designed by Italian contemporary artists. Other warning: Buses, subways, and trams are seldom air-conditioned. They're also subject to mysterious delays and spontaneous labor strikes. But all of that is part of the charm of vacationing in Italy. Stop control-freaking your way through life and relax. Here are some examples of useful bus lines and trams (funiculars) in major cities. In Rome, mini-buses zig zag across through the historic center. A savvy traveler hops on the 116 for a relaxing tour from Trastevere, around Campo de' Fiori, behind the Pantheon, through the Piazza di Pietra to Villa Borghese, and back in 70 minutes. (Rome transport info: www.atac.roma.it) In Venice, why sink a few hundred euro into an over-priced gondola ride on the Grand Canal, when you could instead catch the same views for €6.50, with a single fare vaporetto ticket (line 1) which can last 60 minutes. If you want something closer to a gondola-like experience, hop on one of the city's seven traghetti, short-distance gondola transport where up to 10 passengers ride standing up, for 50 eurocents. (Venice transport info: www.actv.it) From Napoli to Amalfi, go sea gazing on the coastline Sitabus, which will take you stopping at Sorrento and Positano for a nail-biting five euros of unlimited rides in a 24-hour period. (Timetables, in Italian www.sitabus.it By far the most interesting options in ground transportation are the funicolari —trams or cable cars that transport passengers up and down Italian hills and mountains, adding a distinguished flair to the menu of many transport systems. Several, like those in Genova, Napoli, and Bergamo, are integrated into each city's public transport system, with tickets costing the same as single fares on standard buses. These funicular are nearly Disney-fied in their futurist looks. In some of smaller hill towns where the transport menu is sparse, an old-fashioned funicolare often appears as the only means to getting up the hills—like the turn-of-the century fire-engine red cable car in Montecatini or almost medieval metal cage at Gubbio. Additional Public Transport Resources Florence www.ataf.net Milan www.atm-mi.it CORRECTION: 2:49p.m. The spelling for the word funicular has now been corrected. —Erica Firpo, blogging from Rome for our Affordable Europe series.