Affordable Europe: Don't forget the ferries

Public transportation in Italy (and in Europe as a whole) may be this summer's most affordable method of sightseeing. Buses and trams (funiculars) often follow routes that will drop you off directly at the best monuments and most scenic viewpoints—for a much lower cost than hired cars and double-decker red buses. Be aware: Italian subways (metros) do not navigate the city as efficiently as their Paris, London, or New York cousins—nor are they remotely as attractive. So, follow this rule of thumb: skip the subways and stay above ground. One exception to the above guideline: If you're visiting Naples, you should know that some artists are enhancing their station stops with temporary exhibitions and installations. Napoli's stations, for example, are curated and designed by Italian contemporary artists. Other warning: Buses, subways, and trams are seldom air-conditioned. They're also subject to mysterious delays and spontaneous labor strikes. But all of that is part of the charm of vacationing in Italy. Stop control-freaking your way through life and relax. Here are some examples of useful bus lines and trams (funiculars) in major cities. In Rome, mini-buses zig zag across through the historic center. A savvy traveler hops on the 116 for a relaxing tour from Trastevere, around Campo de' Fiori, behind the Pantheon, through the Piazza di Pietra to Villa Borghese, and back in 70 minutes. (Rome transport info: www.atac.roma.it) In Venice, why sink a few hundred euro into an over-priced gondola ride on the Grand Canal, when you could instead catch the same views for €6.50, with a single fare vaporetto ticket (line 1) which can last 60 minutes. If you want something closer to a gondola-like experience, hop on one of the city's seven traghetti, short-distance gondola transport where up to 10 passengers ride standing up, for 50 eurocents. (Venice transport info: www.actv.it) From Napoli to Amalfi, go sea gazing on the coastline Sitabus, which will take you stopping at Sorrento and Positano for a nail-biting five euros of unlimited rides in a 24-hour period. (Timetables, in Italian www.sitabus.it By far the most interesting options in ground transportation are the funicolari —trams or cable cars that transport passengers up and down Italian hills and mountains, adding a distinguished flair to the menu of many transport systems. Several, like those in Genova, Napoli, and Bergamo, are integrated into each city's public transport system, with tickets costing the same as single fares on standard buses. These funicular are nearly Disney-fied in their futurist looks. In some of smaller hill towns where the transport menu is sparse, an old-fashioned funicolare often appears as the only means to getting up the hills—like the turn-of-the century fire-engine red cable car in Montecatini or almost medieval metal cage at Gubbio. Additional Public Transport Resources Florence www.ataf.net Milan www.atm-mi.it CORRECTION: 2:49p.m. The spelling for the word funicular has now been corrected. —Erica Firpo, blogging from Rome for our Affordable Europe series.

Wondering where to stay in Germany? Consider the family-run InterCityHotel chain, which has 30 properties throughout the country and one in Vienna. (A 32nd is slated to open in Hanover in 2009.) Guests at the moderately priced hotels, often located right by airports and train stations, get to ride public transportation for free throughout the stay. Local buses, cable cars, underground trains, and funiculars are an efficient, fun way to get to know an unfamiliar city—and the savings through InterCityHotels can be considerable. In Berlin, a sprawling city with an extensive transportation network, a seven-day ticket would normally set you back $40 (€26.20). I did a quick search for reservations for two over the weekend of June 27-28 and found a rate of $138 (€89) per night at the InterCityHotel Berlin, including breakfast. A few more examples: the InterCityHotel Frankfurt Airport, $105 (€ 68) per night; the InterCity Hotel Freiburg, $108 (€ 70) per night, if you book at least seven days in advance; and the InterCityHotel München (Münich), $184 (€ 119), with breakfast. Find out about more noteworthy foreign hotels by reading 39 Affordable Hotel Chains Only Locals Know.

A friend recently introduced me to a guy named Brian, who was about to embark on the ultimate road trip. Not only was he traveling from one end of the country to the other, but he was planning to do it all on his bicycle. Carrying all his own stuff. I was dually impressed and humbled--just minutes before, I had been bragging to a different friend about how challenging my hour-long spinning class is. This morning I decided to check out the blog Brian's been keeping Transam Shazam. As impressed as I was by his endeavor, I can't say I expected much from the blog. I've done a few long bike rides in my time, and honestly? They're a little tedious. Pedal, pedal pedal, change gears, pedal harder to get up a hill, drink some Gatorade, pedal some more...you get the point. So I was happy (and surprised) to find myself not just reading the blog, but actually enjoying it. For one thing, the writing is often fun, with details about dog chases (apparently a perpetual threat for long-distance cyclists--many even carry dog spray to fend off potential attacks); which states are notorious for drivers who will throw trash out their window at you (sadly, my home state of Missouri comes in second); and geography (my favorite passage: "The only downside of staying in Charlottesville is that the mountains loom around the city. They're like a school-yard taunt that's going unanswered. I'll deal with those bullies tomorrow.") Also, I love that Brian's blog isn't all about logging miles. Cyclists tend to get obsessed with stats, whizzing past all kinds of interesting things just for the sake of covering more ground. But Brian has no problem stopping to check out a town, go to a farmers market, see a concert, or sit down for one of Skeeter's World Famous Hot Dogs in Wytheville, Va. To my mind, it's proof that he's doing this trip for all the right reasons. You've heard it a million times, but travel really is about the journey, not the destination. I'm guessing Brian would agree wholeheartedly. [transamshazam.blogspot.com}