Miss America: How to See the Pageant in Person

By Katie Jakub
December 8, 2008
081208_missamerica
Grab your tiaras and sashes and catch the 2009 Miss America Pageant in Las Vegas—without paying top dollar.

The news
For the first time in 88 years, the Miss America Pageant will give audience members a partial say in picking the finalists. Viewers of TLC's new reality series, Countdown to the Crown, will vote to pick four of the top 15 finalists. The contestants will compete in preliminary contests aboard a cruise ship during the four-part series, which starts January 2, 2009, at 10 p.m. (ET).

On January 24, the Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino in Las Vegas will host the pageant's finale—TLC will televise it live at 8 p.m., (ET). The winner of the Miss America title collects more than $50,000 in scholarship money and has opportunities to earn money for public appearances for the rest of the year.

The crowning moment
If you want to see it for yourself when the winner is announced and a crooner belts out, "There she is...Miss America," expect to pay $150 a seat (866/448-7849, ticketmaster.com). Book the first day tickets go on sale (December 13) because scalpers may snap up tickets and resell them for up to 40 percent more at a resale website like eBay or StubHub.

The Budget Travel tip
If the finale is less important to you than having a chance to see all the contestants compete, watch the preliminary competitions instead. During the prelims, the field of 52 contestants (representing all 50 states plus Washington, D.C., and the U.S. Virgin Islands) is narrowed down to the final 15. The ladies compete in a different event each night: the talent portion, the swimwear/evening wear competition, and the on-stage question, which is typically on current affairs. The tentative schedule for January 20-22 is posted at onlineselection.missamerica.org. Tickets will be $75 a night, which is half the price of seats to the finale (on sale December 13, 866/448-7849, ticketmaster.com).

The freebie
If you're in Vegas the weekend before the pageant, you'll have a chance to see the beauties practice their pageant walks at a public fashion show on Las Vegas Boulevard. No tickets are required, and contestants will happily sign autographs and be photographed. Says a spokeswoman: "From our previous experience, we can tell you it will not be a mob scene." It's tentatively scheduled for January 17 at 4 p.m. (PT). For more details, check the Miss America website closer to the event.

Lodging and other activities
The pageant is held at Planet Hollywood Resort, where doubles on pageant weekend recently started at $199 a night. But you may find a better value if you stay instead at the Stratosphere Hotel and Resort, where doubles recently started as low as $57 a night. Stroll along concourses bursting with shops, lounges, gaming tables, restaurants, fitness centers, spas, and amusement-park-style rides. Next door to the hotel is the Stratosphere Tower; from its observation deck, you'll have a 360-degree view of Las Vegas. (Tickets for hotel guests are $10.) One downside: The hotel is at the northern end of the Strip, a little over a mile from Planet Hollywood and the pageant events.

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On the Taco Trail in L.A.

Stationed at a mid-city intersection, El Chato serves dishes that are almost elegant, in spite of the streetside location. The tacos ($1) are tiny two-biters topped with sweet onions sautéed with fiery halves of chili peppers, plus limes, lemons, and radishes. The sauce that accompanies specialties such as carne asada (marinated grilled beef), al pastor (pork) and cabeza (beef head and cheeks) is smoky and unusual: there might even be some lemongrass in there, though of course the cooks would never spill the secret of their cult success. Southwest corner of Olympic Blvd. and La Brea Ave., Mid-City West, 8 p.m. to midnight Mon.–Thurs., 8 p.m. to 1 a.m. Fri.–Sat. Dishes $1-$4. Taco Zone may be the most popular food truck in town, judging by the constant line of hungry citizens clamoring at its window nightly. With a wide sidewalk ideal for sprawling with your crew and Echo Park's hippest bars nearby, the location is great for people-watching. Just about everything here deserves its reputation, but since you have to choose, go for a quesadilla: this is one of the few trucks serving the cheesy creation. Try it with suadero (chopped sirloin) and top it with whatever sauces and garnishes are offered along the side of the truck—spicy avocado sauce, pico de gallo, onions, cilantro, and peppery red salsa. Going a bit overboard with the mouth-burning options is fine here, as they can all be counterbalanced with some heavenly horchata. This soothing drink of rice, almond flour, sugar, vanilla, and plenty of cinnamon is made daily by the friendly ladies who make the truck so welcoming. Corner of N. Alvarado St. and Montana St., Echo Park, 7 p.m. to midnight Sun.–Thurs., 7 p.m. to 2 a.m. Fri.–Sat. Dishes $1.50-$5. Tacos Arabes has the name of its house specialty painted on its window. Tacos arabes were fusion before the term existed: The story is that in the 1930s an Iraqi or Lebanese immigrant in Mexico put his own spin on tacos, using Middle Eastern seasonings such as cumin and turmeric and a wheat tortilla. Another specialty here is the corn tortillas. They're handmade in the tortilleria next to where the truck parks, and their freshness really comes through. Specialists making the tortillas work late into the evening, and diners can spot them in action, forming the cornmeal disks that will soon be topped with beef, pork, chicken and sautéed vegetables. Northwest corner of Sunset Blvd. and Logan St., Echo Park, 7 p.m. to 1 a.m. Mon.–Sat. Dishes $2-$4. One of the best things about L.A.'s taco trucks is the airbrushed murals that adorn them. Rambo's has an especially famous scene: The warrior of movie legend brandishes a plateful of tacos in the jungle while a buxom safari leader looks on. Does it make sense? Not necessarily, but it is fun. Busty ladies are a common theme on taco trucks, though they are paired more often with spiritual figures and animals than with movie icons. As for the food, Rambo's is a good spot to get adventurous. Popular tacos include lengua (tongue) and tripas (intestines). Each taco gets its own unique salsa, and you can count on it being almost blindingly spicy. Southeast corner of Eagle Rock Blvd. and York Blvd., Eagle Rock, 7 p.m. to 2 a.m. Mon.–Sat. Dishes $1-$3.50. La Estrella is so successful that the owners and chefs have managed to turn it into a mini chain, with one brick-and-mortar restaurant and a number of trucks stationed around town. The one in Highland Park is the most centrally located: Near a hipster bowling alley, dive bars, and Occidental College, it's handy for town and gown alike. If you only try one kind of taco here, make it the al pastor. The pork is so perfectly seasoned and cooked that many folks order it without the standard salsa, just a sprinkling of cilantro and chopped onions. This location got a lot of press early in 2008, when a motion was passed at the behest of brick-and-mortar restaurant owners to effectively ban taco trucks from parts of Los Angeles County; La Estrella is the favorite of Save Our Taco Trucks, the group who led the fight to overturn it. Luckily for us all, the ban was repealed and the eating continues. Northwest corner of York Blvd. and Ave. 54, Highland Park, 7 p.m. to midnight Mon.–Thurs., 7 p.m. to 2 a.m. Fri.–Sat. Tacos $2 each. The final truck serves no tacos, but the specialty is a classic in its own way, and a great ending to any food crawl. The main attraction at Salina's Churros are sugary, deep-fried wonders, crispy outside but soft and fluffy inside. The churros are usually made fresh to order, in the scary-looking deep fryer behind the window. Churros are best when piping hot: if you're offered one made more than five minutes ago, smile sweetly and ask for a new batch; the cooks are happy to comply. Other dessert options include bionicos, fruit salads with cream and grains; and fried plantanos (plantains) with sweet cream and strawberry jam. The plantanos, hard-to-recognize lumps, aren't exactly pretty, but they are delicious. An ideal night to hit this truck up is Wednesday, when Barragan's Mexican restaurant two doors down has $2 margaritas. Pick up a bag full of churros to line your stomach with dough before joining the scenesters at the bar. It could turn out to be one of the the tastiest, cheapest, and yes, sweetest, nights of your life. Southwest corner of Sunset Blvd. and Echo Park Ave., Echo Park, 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Eight churros for $3, other dishes $4.

20 Museum Gifts from Around the World

$25 and Under HEMA Serving Tray, $6 The floral background on these durable melamine trays was inspired by a 17th-century still life; the bird-and-twig scene comes from a 17th-century Chinese vase on display at the Rijksmusuem in Amsterdam. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam, rijksmuseum.nl. Initial Seals, $10.50 A simple wax seal, created with a brass initial stamp like these from the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, adds a personal, nostalgic touch to letters and invitations. Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston, gardnermuseum.org. Indian Pattern Notecard Wallet, $11 Inspired by the V&A's vast collection of textiles and other items from the Indian subcontinent, these note cards have delicate floral designs from the 17th and 18th centuries. They come in a set of 10, with two postcards of each design. Victoria and Albert Museum, London, vandashop.com. Marimekko Unikko Tea Towel, $12 Emblazoned with the most popular design from the Finnish textile company Marimekko, this towel is ready to give your kitchen a little flower power. Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art, Gateshead, U.K., balticmill.com. Walker Custom Pattern Planner, $12.95 This notebook's pattern was inspired by the Walker Art Center's recent expansion. The six-ring aluminum planner includes daily, weekly, and monthly calendars, note pages, and an address book. Walker Art Center, Minneapolis, walkerart.org. Maple Small Plates, $16 These solid-maple platters are elegant but down-to-earth. Each has one of three nature-inspired designs: bamboo stalks, ginkgo leaves, or twigs. Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, San Francisco, famsf.org. 52 Travel Activity Set, $16.95 Take the stress out of long journeys with this kids' travel kit. The 52 different travel games, 10 postcards, markers, stickers, and a ruler will help delay cries of "Are we there yet?" The Field Museum, Chicago, fieldmuseum.org. Swiss Spice Salt and Pepper, $17 Designed with travelers in mind, this humidity-proof salt and pepper shaker set brings clean, clump-free seasoning to meals from the Andes to the tropics. Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, New York, cooperhewittshop.org. Ikimono 110 Film Camera, $19.95 This cute, pocket-size camera from Japan comes in four colors, each featuring a different cartoon animal. The cameras use 110 format film (a roll is included) that's perfect for giving a vintage look to shots. International Center of Photography, New York, icp.org. Gorillapod Tripod, $25 Avoid blur with this flexible, on-the-go tripod, which can be wrapped around poles, railings, and other objects. It comes in two sizes—one for larger SLR cameras and one for point-and-shoots—and connects easily to your camera. Museum of Modern Art, New York, momastore.org. $50 and Under Semyonov Matryoshka Doll, $29.95 The Museum of Russian Art in Minneapolis celebrates the country's history and culture with gifts like this handcrafted seven-piece matryoshka nesting doll, a folk symbol of the Russian countryside. The Museum of Russian Art, Minneapolis, tmora.org. Solar Flashlight, $30 Bringing solar power to the masses, this waterproof flashlight runs on a photovoltaic panel and rechargeable batteries. Museum of Modern Art, New York, momastore.org. Copper Gonder Scarf, $33.25 Proceeds from these beautiful cotton-rayon scarves, woven in Ethiopia and sold by the company Creative Women, promote women's economic independence in Africa. National Museum of Women in the Arts, Washington, D.C., nmwa.org. Recycled Wine Bottle Goblets, $38 The Brooklyn Museum's "Think Green!" products, which infuse style with ecofriendly design, include a set of bright-blue wine goblets made from recycled Bordeaux wine bottles. Cheers! Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn, brooklynmuseum.org. Castle Soft Sculpture Toy, $39 This soft, toddler-friendly renaissance fair in a box comes with detachable knights and horses; a queen, king, wizard, and dragon; and even a working drawbridge. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, mfashop.com. Cargo Laptop Sleeves, $40 Made of durable, shock-absorbing neoprene, these laptop sleeves from Built NY come in three different sizes to fit most notebook computer models. San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, San Francisco, sfmoma.org. Bamboo Travel Set, $45 As more and more airlines cut back on amenities, it's smart to pack a personal blanket for those chilly long-haul flights. This soft, environmentally friendly bamboo blanket, which comes with a matching eye mask, makes for a much cozier trip. The Field Museum, Chicago, fieldmuseum.org. Ringo Magazine Rack, $48 With four interlocking nickel-plated steel rings, this clever magazine rack crafted by London design firm Black & Bloom stylishly organizes books and magazines. The racks are on sale for $33.49 through the month of December. The Art Institute of Chicago, Chicago, artinstituteshop.org. Alarm Clock, $49 London's Design Museum has a knack for finding commonplace items that are also works of art. This alarm clock reflects the practical, pared-down style of its Danish designer, Jacob Jensen. Design Museum, London, designmuseumshop.com. Silver Magnetic Vases, $49.95 Gift items made by Israeli artists for the Spertus Institute of Jewish Studies include this set of five sleek mini vases. Each is held upright by a magnet hidden underneath the tablecloth. Spertus Institute of Jewish Studies, Chicago, bariff.org.

20 Museum Gifts from Around the World

$25 and Under HEMA Serving Tray, $6 The floral background on these durable melamine trays was inspired by a 17th-century still life; the bird-and-twig scene comes from a 17th-century Chinese vase on display at the Rijksmusuem in Amsterdam. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam, Netherlands. rijksmuseum.nl. Marimekko Unikko Tea Towel, $10 Emblazoned with the most popular design from the Finnish textile company Marimekko, this towel is ready to give your kitchen a little flower power. Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art, Gateshead, U.K. balticmill.com. Indian Pattern Notecard Wallet, $11 Inspired by the V & A's vast collection of textiles and other items from the Indian subcontient, these note cards have delicate floral designs from the 17th and 18th centuries. They come in a set of 10, with two postcards of each design. Victoria & Albert Museum, London, U.K. vandashop.com. Initial seals, $12 A simple wax seal, created with a brass initial stamp like these from the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, adds a personal, nostalgic touch to letters and invitations. Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston, Mass. gardnermuseum.org. Walker Custom Planner, $12.95 The scroll pattern on the Walker Art Center's planner was inspired by the contemporary art museum's recent expansion, done by the architectural firm Herzog & de Meuron. The six-ring aluminum planner includes daily, weekly and monthly calendars, note pages and an address book. Walker Art Center, Minneapolis, Minn. walkerart.org. Maple Small Plates, $16 These solid maple platters are elegant but down to earth. Each has one of three nature-inspired designs: bamboo stalks, ginkgo leaves or twigs. Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco, San Francisco, Calif. famsf.org. Kids' Travel Game Set, $16.95 Take the stress out of long journeys with this travel kit. The 52 different travel games, postcards, markers, stickers and a ruler will help delay cries of "are we there yet?" Field Museum, Chicago, Ill. fieldmuseum.org. Swiss Spice Travel Salt & Pepper Shaker, $17 Designed with travelers in mind, this humidity-proof salt and pepper set brings clean, clump-free seasoning to meals from the Andes to the tropics. Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, New York, N.Y.cooperhewittshop.org. Mini Ikimono Camera, $19.95 These cute, pocketsize cameras from Japan come in four colors, each featuring a different cartoon animal. The cameras use a one-click shutter and 110 format film (a roll's included) that's perfect for giving a vintage look to shots. International Center For Photography, New York, N.Y. icp.org. Gorilla Camera Tripod, $25 Avoid blur with this flexible, on-the-go tripod, which can be wrapped around poles, railings and other objects. It comes in two sizes--one for larger SLR cameras and one for point-and-shoots --and connects easily to your camera. Museum of Modern Art, New York, N.Y. momastore.org. $50 and Under Semyonov Matryoshka Doll, $29.95 The Museum of Russian Art in Minneapolis celebrates the country's history and culture with gifts like this handcrafted seven-piece matryoshka nesting doll, a folk symbol of the Russian countryside. Museum of Russian Art, Minneapolis, Minn. tmora.org. Solar Flash Light, $30 Bringing solar power to the masses, this waterproof flashlight runs on a photovoltaic panel and rechargeable batteries. Museum of Modern Art, New York, N.Y. momastore.org. Photo: momastore.org Copper Gonder Scarf, $33.25 The National Museum of Women in the Arts sells these beautiful cotton-rayon scarves, woven in Ethiopia and sold by the company Creative Women, a Fair Trade company. The proceeds help promote women's economic independence in Africa. National Museum of Women in the Arts, Washington, D.C. nmwa.org. Recycled Wine Bottle Goblets, $38 The Brooklyn Museum's "Think Green!" products, which infuse style with eco-friendly design, include a set of bright-blue wine goblets made from recycled Bordeaux wine bottles. Cheers! Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn, N.Y. brooklynmuseum.org. Photo: Tracy Boni, Brooklyn Museum Castle Soft Sculpture Toy, $39 This soft, toddler-friendly Ren Faire in a box comes with detachable knights and horses; a queen, king, and wizard and dragon; and even a working drawbridge. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, Mass. mfashop.com. Cargo Laptop Sleeves, $40 Made of durable, shock-absorbing neoprene, these laptop sleeves from Built NY come in three different sizes to fit most notebook computer models. San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, San Francisco, Calif. sfmoma.org. Bamboo Travel Set, $45 As more and more airlines cut back on amenities, it's smart to pack a personal blanket for those chilly long-haul flights. This soft, environmentally-friendly bamboo blanket, which comes with a matching eye mask, makes for a much cozier trip. Field Museum, Chicago, Ill. fieldmuseum.org. Ringo Magazine Rack, $48 With four interlocking nickel-plated steel rings, this clever magazine rack crafted by London design firm Black & Bloom stylishly organizes books and magazines. The racks are on sale for $33.49 through the month of December. Art Institute of Chicago, Chicago, Ill. artinstituteshop.org. Alarm Clock, $49 London's Museum of Design has a knack for finding commonplace items that are also works of art. This alarm clock reflects the practical, pared-down style of its Danish designer, Jacob Jensen. Museum of Design, London, U.K. designmuseumshop.com. Silver Magnetic Vases, $49.95 Gift items made by Israeli artists for the Spertus Institute of Jewish Studies include this set of five sleek, mini-vases. Each is held upright by a magnet hidden underneath the tablecloth. Spertus Institute of Jewish Studies, Chicago Ill. bariff.org.

Trip Coach: December 2, 2008

Alex Robinson:Hello Everyone. Greetings from a cold, dark Europe! I'm Alex—I write and photograph for books and magazines in the US and UK and I specialize in Portuguese-speaking countries. It's a pleasure to be here with you to talk about one of my favorite destinations—Europe's hidden treasure, Portugal. _______________________ Bloomington, Ind.:Hi, Alex. We were in Lisboa in late fall 2007 and have wanted to return ever since. We are a couple in our fit early 60's and are interested in beautiful cities & towns, historic places, as well as the countryside and natural areas. We like to walk a LOT and that is our main activity. We don't like tours and are good navigators. However, we enjoy hearing about a place from knowledgeable locals. We'd like to meet people if possible. He's a judge and I'm a planner. Questions: 1. Best season to visit Portugal with best weather and prices and least tourists? 2. Where to stay in Lisboa, Evora and... where else to go? 3. How to meet people? Town walking tours? 4. Natural parks for light day hikes. 5. Any other tips? Package companies? Thanks for your advice. —Susan Alex Robinson:Hi, Bloomington. Well, here are some thoughts: 1. Best season to visit Portugal with best weather and prices and least tourists? The early Spring or Autumn are good times—say March or mid-September. The weather is generally good—with long, warm days and there are fewer tourists. 2. Where to stay in Lisboa, Evora and...where else to go? In Lisboa I'd choose the Bairro Alto Hotel or the Heritage Av Liberadade—a new boutique in a historic town house. Both are close to the centre. The Bairro Alto has a very good restaurant. 3. How to meet people? Town walking tours? It's generally pretty easy to meet people informally in Portugal and many locals speak English. If you want something more organised then companies like Portugal Walks and Walking Europe offer a broad range of walking tours both guided and self-guided. 4. Natural parks for light day hikes. I like the Serra da Estrela in the centre of the country. It's one of the wildest parts of the country yet, as it's bisected by roads, it offers light and short walk as well as longer hikes. The long u-shaped Vale de Zezere valley is particularly pretty in spring—with wild flowers and deep green grass and there's a waterfall nearby, the Poço do Inferno. 5. Any other tips? Package companies? The companies I have listed above will be helpful for what you're looking for. I'd hire a car, buy a Michelin map and a guide (Cadogan are good), and drive inland from Lisbon.... _______________________ New York City, N.Y.:Is there any particular site, attraction, or event that you would recommend for a family traveling in Portugal with a 16- or 17-year old teenager? Alex Robinson:Think about going in July and attending the Festas de São João in Porto. Thousands of people of all ages descend on the UNESCO world heritage historic city center to watch a big fireworks display and hit each other over the head with floppy, squeeky plastic hammers. There's nothing quite like it anywhere in Europe. Alternatively you could visit the Azores and go whale-watching and diving. The islands have more species of whales and dolphins passing through than pretty much anywhere else in the world, including Moby Dick himself—the sperm Whale. _______________________ Phoenix, Ariz.:Where are some good places in Lisbon for authentic (not for tourists) Fado? Alex Robinson: There are a huddle of places in the streets around the castle which are unreliably good—depending on who's playing. I agree that it's not fun to feel part of a huge tourist crowd, but for the best quality I'd opt for the middle way. The Clube de Fado is a little touristy but it is always good. It's run by one of the country's great masters of the Portuguese Guitar, Mario Pacheco and the shows there are first rate...choice quality stuff not just a pantomime for visitors.... _______________________ Santa Barbara, Calif.:We (mother and college-age daughter) want to go to Portugal in the spring. We will get around by train, possibly fly in to Lisbon and out by Madrid. Our total time is close to 3 weeks. Any itinerary suggestions? Is it best to do the open-jaw flight like this? Thank you for your help! Alex Robinson:Spend ten days in and round Lisbon visiting the city, Sintra and Casacais, the pretty medieval village of Obidos and heading in land to Evora. Return to Lisbon and take the train to Coimbra—one of Europe's oldest university cities. Take the train inland from here to Guarda from where you can organise hikes into the beautiful Serra da Estrela mountains (enquire at the tourist office for local tour operators and buses—on Praça Luís de Camões T271 20 55 30). From Guarda you can catch the train across the border to Salamanca—another beautiful medieval university town in Spain, Avila with its famous castle and then Madrid. _______________________ Greenfield, Mass.:I am retired and would like to budget tour Portugal with an eye to spending several months a year there. I can invest 3 or 4 weeks to this project. When would be a good time of year to go? What would be a good rough itinerary? Alex Robinson: I'd go in spring—say March or April and fly into Faro in the Algarve. Look into flights with TAP via Lisbon and also cheap flights to London and then a return charter airline fare from there (check cheapflights.co.uk or netflights.com or ebookers.com). Faro has good connections to the rest of the Algarve by train and bus. Lagos and Sagres have good cheap hotels and Cabo São Vicente where Henry the Navigator invented caravels and opened the world to discover is spectacular. Trains run from Faro to Lisbon. Head there next and explore the city, Sintra, Obidos and Evora, then gradually head north stopping at Fatima, Tomar (with an incredible castle built by the templars), Coimbra (old university town) and fly home from Porto. _______________________ Wichita, Kans.:We will be traveling by Crown Princess cruise ship to Lisbon on Thursday, June 18th. Six are traveling together, all adults ranging in age from 40 to 60. Three husband & wife couples. None of us have visited Lisbon before. We are interested in taking an excursion offered by the cruise line. We'd like to see the best sites on our one day in Lisbon. Would you suggest we see the Jeronimos Monastery, tour Gulbenklan Museum, explore the 7 hills on a tram ride, a guided walking tour of the Moorish quarter, experience Evora, or visit the Medieval Village of Obidos? Those are just some of the trips offered by Princess cruise line. Any information you can give us will be welcomed. Best regards, Karen Alex Robinson:Hey, Karen. I'd be inclined to go for Jeronimos, the Gulbenkian and tram ride. The former is a spectacular baroque monastery which is quite the equal of anything in Paris and the best of its kind in Portugal (with the possible exception of Batalha Abbey). The latter one of the world's finest collections of artefacts and objets d'art from Europe and Asia and Lisbon is very pretty—especially by tram.... _______________________ Silver Spring, Md.:My husband and I (both in our 60s) will be in Lisbon prior to a cruise with Crystal on November 12, 2009. We would like to spend a few days in a comfortable hotel centrally located for sightseeing. Any ideas? Alex Robinson: The Bairro Alto is perfect—in the heart of the old upper portion of the city center near many of the fine churches and within easy reach of the 18th Century center (by life or cab) and many of the (albeit touristy) fado houses, bars and good restaurants at night time. The hotel restaurant—Flores—is one of Lisbon's best. Take an upper-story room for views. _______________________ Burbank, Calif.:In your opinion, what is your favorite place for a holiday on the Algarve? Alex Robinson:I like the quieter places—not that there are too many. For a different option, why not base yourself in the hills in the pretty, tranquil little town of Caldas de Monchique and visit the beaches rather than vice versa? The coast around Sagres is very dramatic and has some secluded beaches...and Silves has a dramatic Moorish hilltop castle. _______________________ DeKalb, Ill.:My husband and I, retired academics, will be in Lisbon in March for 10 days. We're experienced independent travelers and enjoy walking (and using public transportation) in cities. What area of Lisbon would be the best to look for a moderately-priced hotel if we would like to be walking distance to some sights and to restaurants in the evening? Our preference is for smaller locally-owned hotels over large chains. Alex Robinson: I'd look around the Bairro Alto or Avenida Liberdade just north of the 18th Century city centre (aka the Baixa). I'd suggest the small Heritage hotel group—all are small, quiet, intimate, locally owned and central. My favorite is their Av. Liberdade hotel. The walk from this hotel along Avenida da Liberdade is enchanting—cutting through pracas dotted with traditional Portuguese cafes, taking in many of the beautiful art nouveau buildings and quirky shops, and you can hop on a tram pretty much anywhere. _______________________ Philadelphia, Pa.:Hello, Alex. I am planning a trip to Portugal in the spring and would like to know what is the ideal amount of time to spend in Portugal to see the major sites and also relax. Also, how long should I stay in places like Lisbon, Porto, the Algarve, etc.? Do you have any recommendations for hotels which are a great value in these places? Thanks! —Donna Alex Robinson: Hey, Donna. 3 weeks is a good amount of time. I'd spend a week to ten days around Libson (hotel—Pensão Londres is a good-value, centrally-located cheapie). The Algarve is really just a package holiday beach destination and not very interesting to my mind—unless you venture inland to towns like the old spa resort of Caldas de Monchique (with its pretty hills and quaint central square) or the castle town of Silves. If you visit and want to stay on the coast opt for Lagos and allow a few days; and try and visit Cabo Sao Vicente and Sagres—where Europe ends and looks longingly out from barren cliffs over a wild and bottle green Atlantic towards the Americas. Heading north from Lisbon, Coimbra is a gorgeous historical city and you can visit Tomar along the way—the old Templar knights headquarters—with a dramatic castle and a graveyard covered in occult symbols weirder than anything in the Da Vinci code. I also love the little towns that lie along the Spanish border—Castelo de Vide, Monsanto, Marvao etc... (allow a week for these). Porto and the Douro valley (take a boat trip and come back by train) need 2-3 days. The faded Grand hotel de Paris is an OK deal in Porto or you could opt for a hostel like Oporto Poets Hostel on Travessa do Ferra 13. There are a number of others listed on sites like hostelworld.com. Think about flying into Faro and out of Porto...and as well as asking for deals on TAP Air Portugal make enquiries about a flight via London as it may prove cheaper—esepcially if you use a UK budget airline like Easyjet (though watch the baggage allowance here). _______________________ Chicago, Ill.:Does Lisbon have a Red Light district? If so, where is it? Alex Robinson:Hmmmm, well...I am not sure that there's a city anywhere without one...but I'm no expert on the details. My advice would be to ask a cab driver when you arrive. _______________________ Delray Beach, Fla.:Hello. We're looking to head to Portugal for the 2010 New Year. There will be anywhere from 4 to 8 of us. All (crazy) women—all in our 40s (two of them speak Portuguese/Brazilian). Some flying from Miami, others flying from Charlotte, NC. How do the Portuguese celebrate the New Year? What events/festivities should we consider attending? Thank you, Ibrey Alex Robinson:Hi, Ibrey. They certainly do. I'd head to Lisbon which will be buzzing and packed with people—out to watch the huge firework displays in the Baixa (downtown) and cramming the myriad bars and clubs of the Bairro Alto. As ever when celebrating in Portugal try and be with the locals. A good way to do that is to get in touch with Live a Local Spirit. It's run by Alice Moura. From what you say she'd be perfect for you—she has a very small tour agency that integrates tourists with locals, she is half Portuguese and half Brazilian, speaks perfect English, is very well connected and loves to party. _______________________ Detroit Lakes, Minn.:Alex, we are planning a small family reunion trip to Portugal—Lisbon and the Algarve—from Christmas to early January. We understand that this is not the high season for tourism. What can we expect for weather conditions at that time? Will we find restaurants and tourist sites open at that time? What sites in the southern half of Portugal should we be certain to see during our stay? Alex Robinson:Well it's certainly not the best time to visit. Expect it to be cool (though not cold) and wet; with a combination of grey skies—broken by occasional days of blue sky. Faro—16 degrees Celsius with an average of 5 hours sunshine and 10 cm of rain. Lisbon—15 degrees with an average of 5 hours sunshine and 11 cm of rain. Porto—14 degrees with an average of 4 hours sunshine and 17 cm of rain. Restaurant and hotels will be open—other than the smaller establishments on the Algarve. All the tourist sites are open. Don't miss Lisbon, Sintra, the dramatic windswept coast near Sagres (Cabo São Vicente). And venture inland to Evora (a beautiful medieval town replete with Roman remains) and the fortified towns and villages of Estremoz, Castelo de Vide and Marvao. The latter is one of the prettiest medieval villages in Europe (far prettier than the far more vaunted Obidos)—with a complete medieval wall, sugar cube houses an imposing castle. There's a very good pousada you can stay in there—in a grand old mansion and with magnificent views out over the Alentejo plains. And there will be no tourists at all. Forgive me giving temperature in Celcius! _______________________ Costa Mesa, Calif.:What do you consider to be the best time of year to go there, and which city do you prefer to start a three-day visit? Alex Robinson:I'd go in spring—April—before it gets really hot and before the tourist numbers get heavy. For so short a visit stay in Lisbon—with side trips to Sintra and possibly Evora. _______________________ Wilmette, Ill.:My wife and I are interested in taking our three-year-old son to Portugal. Do you have any recommendations for a week-long itinerary in June? Thank you for your anticipated response. Alex Robinson: I don't think the beaches in the Algarve will be anything special for those who have visited Carolina, Florida or California but if you want a child-friendly beach, choose to stay in Albufeira. This site has a list of activities for children on the Algarve. I'd be inclined to visit Lisbon and Sintra (with its odd fairy-tale castle), Evora and Porto (where you can take an enchanting boat trip on the Douro). Lisbon's Oceanario is great for children of all ages and it's the second largest in the world. The zoo has a little train and the Ciencia Viva museum (the former knowledge pavilion from Expo) has hands-on exhibits for children as young as two. _______________________ Morgantown, W.Va.:I am attending a conference in Lisbon in June 2009. How is the bicycling in that city? Where does one rent a bike and how much do rental bikes cost? Alex Robinson: Lisbon is very hilly and drivers are not as courteous as in the USA or UK. There are also many trams. That said it is possible to cycle here. Bicicletanacidade.blogspot.com is a blog (in Portuguese) devoted to biking in the city. Bikeiberia.com can organise bike rental throughout Spain and Portugal. _______________________ Alex Robinson:Thanks so much to all of you for writing in. I am so sorry I didn't have time to reply to everyone! I also write about Brazil and have a new book coming out early next year with Footprint, so if anyone plans on going there then check my guide out. You can reach me through my site or my blog. All the best and bye bye, Alex