New York: Chelsea, Flatiron, & Union Square

SEE The Meatpacking DistrictWest of Ninth Ave., between Gansevoort and W. 14th Sts. A cobbled, historic, working neighborhood that's disappearing as fast as you can say "Gucci." It's one of the buzziest parts of town, which makes it a fun, if expensive, playground. BT's advice: Go see this slice of New York life before it disappears forever, and then support the neighborhood businesses by treating yourself to steak frites at Florent, (69 Gansevoort St., 212/989-5779). SEE Sheridan SquareSeventh Ave. at Christopher and W. Fourth Sts.Named for the Civil War's General Sheridan but known as the epicenter of NYC's gay community-the Stonewall Inn, site of the historic 1969 riots for gay rights, is adjacent (212/463-0950). Nearby, The Duplex piano bar (61 Christopher St., 212/255-5438) is always a good time. (Joan Rivers performs her catty comedy here.) Neighborhood lesbians like the colorfully festooned Cubbyhole (281 W. 12th St., at W. 4th St., 212/243-9041). EAT Chez Brigitte77 Greenwich Ave., near W. 11th St., 212/929-6736 A trapped-in-time 11-person counter that serves French comfort food. Its Provençal omelet hits the spot any time of day, and the beef bourguignon is also très bon. EAT 'ino21 Bedford St., near Sixth Ave., 212/989-5769, cafeino.comA pocket-sized café that spotlights Italian snacks such as bruschette (little slices of bread with savory toppings). High-concept flavor combinations include asparagus, parmesan, and truffle oil. It recently spawned a larger outpost on the Lower East Side-'inoteca (98 Rivington St., 212/614-0473). EAT Extra Virgin259 W. Fourth St., 212/691-9359, extravirginrestaurant.comA stylish, decently priced newbie that serves marvelous Mediterranean dishes including to-die-for Caesar salad, roasted monkfish, and tarte Tatin. It's open for brunch, too. EAT Lassi28 Greenwich Ave., 212/675-2688Authentic North Indian snacks and smoothies (lassis) made from low-fat yogurt-sample the rose or lemon blossom. Traditional paratha bread comes stuffed with daikon, goat meat, cheese, and other ingredients. EAT Milk and Cookies19 Commerce St., 212/243-1640Stop here for snickerdoodles, oatmeal-cranberry cookies, and nutter butters like you've never had, and wash 'em all down with a chilled glass of organic milk. Feeling creative? Choose your own "mix-in," and in 10 minutes a mini-batch of your very own made-to-order cookies will emerge warm from the oven. SPLURGE Wallsé344 W. 11th St., 212/352-2300, wallse.comAustrian cuisine executed with a light, sophisticated touch. Wiener schnitzel that doesn't feel like a punch in the stomach, delicate sauces infused with Riesling-you get the idea. Its martini made with pepper vodka and tomato water is a revelation-like a cocktail plucked from the vine. DRINK Jack's138 W. 10th St., 212/929-0821, jacksstirbrew.comCoffee-freak Jack Mazzola takes his java seriously-home brews are full-bodied and low on acid. His great-aunt Rosie's chocolate-chip cookies are a must. DRINK Employees Only510 Hudson St., 212/242-3021Expertly mixed classic cocktails (try a Manhattan) amid sultry art deco decor. The only thing out of place is the tarot-card reader in the window. DRINK Von3 Bleecker St., 212/473-3039A well-worn, well-loved, well-stocked bar that pours fine wines by the glass and carries many beers from Europe-a goodly amount from brew capital Belgium. DRINK Highline835 Washington St., 212/243-3339, nychighline.com Head straight to the basement lounge of this space-age Thai restaurant, where ginger mojitos flow freely. If you get hungry, order the steak with lemongrass-cumin mole. SHOP Partners & Crime44 Greenwich Ave., 212/243-0440, crimepays.comAn impressive independent bookshop where crime is a passion. There's an authoritative selection of mysteries and crime novels, from Agatha Christie to Claire Matturro. The first Saturday night of every month, Cranston & Spade Theater Co. performs classic 1940s radio scripts at 6 p.m. and 8 p.m. $5. SHOP MXYPLYZYK125 Greenwich Ave., 212/989-4300, mxyplyzyk.comA clever housewares and gift shop whose name was inspired by a character from a Superman comic. SHOP C.O. Bigelow Chemists414 Sixth Ave., 212/533-2700, bigelowchemists.comThe oldest apothecary in the U.S.-it's been filling prescriptions since 1838. An amazing selection of homeopathic and European health and beauty products. PLAY Arthur's Tavern57 Grove St., 212/675-6879, arthurstavernnyc.comA small, laid-back music club that's hosted terrific talent nightly for over 50 years. Jazz starts at 7 p.m., blues at 10 p.m. No cover.

EAT ChikaLicious203 E. 10th St., 212/995-9511, chikalicious.com Sugar-infused tasting menus with dishes like mascarpone semifreddo, espresso granita, and coconut panna cotta with basil sorbet, wine pairings, and petits fours are yours at this ultramodern 400-square-foot dessert bar. EAT Crif Dogs113 St. Marks Pl., 212/614-2728Hot dogs deep fried for your indulgent pleasure. EAT Jewel Bako Makimono101 Second Ave., 212/253-7848Refined Japanese food-tartares, creative makis, and new takes on miso soup-at reasonable prices from culinary wunderkinds Jack and Grace Lamb. There are only 20 seats in all-that's more than their 12-seat formal dining room around the corner at the very precious Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar. EAT Mercadito179 Ave. B, 212/529-6490A bustling, convivial restaurant that's entirely devoted to authentic Mexican food-tender pork tacos, spicy chorizo, and made-to-order guacamole. Slurp a margarita on the back patio. EAT Miss Williamsburg Portavia228 E. 10th St., 212/228-5355, miss-williamsburg.comA feel-good Brooklyn import (the original is in a renovated diner at 206 Kent Ave., 718/963-0802) that churns out grandma-style Italian cooking. The menu includes rich pastas and desserts layered with bold flavors, such as cheese fondue lasagna with pesto and panna cotta draped in berries. DRINK International Bar120 1/2 First Ave., 212/777-9244An awesome (and scruffy) granddad bar, where the drinks are simple, the decor nonexistent, and a killer jukebox is packed with Devo, Run-D.M.C., and the Buzzcocks. Want confirmation of its cool factor? The Coen brothers have been known to belly up to the bar. DRINK Angel's Share8 Stuyvesant St., 2nd Fl., 212/777-5415Masterful bartenders tend this once-little-known Japanese lounge. It's no longer a secret, so hit it on off-hours, or go early. Try the mint julep. Note: It won't seat groups larger than four. DRINK Bar Veloce175 Second Ave., 212/260-3200, barveloce.comA popular neutral-toned Italian wine bar with high, narrow tables, blond woods, and smart spotlighting. Its appeal has only increased since it was the site of a freak incident in 2002-a crazy wielding guns and a sword was tackled to the ground by two female patrons. No one was seriously hurt, so drink up! SHOP Gominyc443 E. Sixth St., 212/979-0388, gominyc.comRecycling is brought to new creative heights at this green boutique where everything from clothes to furniture is made from sustainable materials. Items such as bike-chain bracelets and "pot holder" rugs are surprisingly chic. SHOP Kiehl's109 Third Ave., 212/677-3171, kiehls.com154-year-old pharmacy with a no-frills aesthetic sells its own label of beauty products. Its lip balm, grapefruit body lotion, and other all-natural products have garnered a devoted following. Ask for some free samples. SHOP East Ninth StreetBetween Ave. A and Second Ave.One of the first enclaves of do-it-yourself designers who thumbed their noses at the fashion and design industries, embarked on the fast track, and opened their own boutiques. PLAY Rififi/Cinema Classics332 E. 11th St., 212/677-1027, cinemaclassics.comA bar/screening room that's part college lounge, part underground arts venue. It pays homage to celluloid greatness and shows old cult horror and sci-fi films on Mon. nights. Other nights are devoted to music (Fri. & Sat.), burlesque (Thurs. & Sun.), and stand-up comedy (Wed.). Cover price: free to $5. PLAY Amato Opera Theatre319 Bowery, 212/228-8200, amato.orgGrand opera in a tiny theater. Anthony and Sally Amato have been turning their passion for arias into a reality since 1948, providing a professional space for young singers to stretch their vocal chords and strut their stuff. (Many have gone on to sing opera on great stages around the world.) You can see a phenomenal production like La Bohème for a fraction of what you'd pay uptown. Adults $30, students and seniors $25. PLAY Joe's PubPublic Theater, 425 Lafayette St., 212/539-8770, joespub.comNamed for the theater's late founder, Joseph Papp. It has perhaps the most exciting roster of singers, musicians, comedians, and assorted off-beat acts anywhere in the city. Expect star-spottings. Shows nightly. From $7.

SEE Guss' Lower East Side Pickles85-87 Orchard St., 917/701-4000Homemade pickles sold straight from massive barrels of vinegary brine have been making people pucker since 1920. To get a glimpse of this true Lower East Side institution, you might have to stand in line. Closed Sat. SEE Lower East Side Tenement Museum90 Orchard St., near Broome St., 212/431-0233, tenement.orgDon't miss this museum! NYC's rich immigrant history is brought to life in an 1863 tenement building. Guided tours show how a Jewish family lived in the 1870s and how a Sicilian-Catholic family lived in the 1930s. The quarters were shockingly cramped (e.g., two toilets for every four families). Adults $13, students and seniors $11. Additional walking tours of the Lower East Side leave Sat. and Sun. at 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. Call to reserve space in advance. EAT Falai68 Clinton St., 212/253-1960, falainyc.comA bright white Italian restaurant where the only color is on the plate. The food is all fatto in casa, or made in-house; the Florentine owner (formerly the pastry chef at Le Cirque) is a purist and makes all his own pasta (and even chocolate) by hand. Desserts, such as profiteroles with Marsala mousse and chocolate sauce, are marvels. EAT FreemansFreeman Alley, off Rivington St., between the Bowery and Chrystie St., 212/420-0012, freemansrestaurant.comAn unpretentious, taxidermy-filled American restaurant that emits a strong whiff of yesteryear-old-fashioned cocktails and appetizers like "devils on horseback" (bacon-wrapped prunes stuffed with Stilton cheese). The bartenders are first-rate. EAT Il Laboratorio del Gelato95 Orchard St., at Broome St., 212/343-9922, laboratoriodelgelato.comOver 75 varieties of delicious gelato and sorbet. It scoops all the standards but also has some off-beat flavors, too, including black sesame, honey lavender, and green fig. And there really is a "lab," where ice-creamologists wear white coats. EAT Teany90 Rivington St., 212/475-9190, teany.comA delightful, airy café owned by Grammy Award-winning musician Moby. It sells over 90 kinds of tea from around the world, and mostly veggie snacks. Window boxes add extra charm, and even the bathroom is inviting. SPLURGE Sammy's Roumanian Steakhouse157 Chrystie St., at Delancey St., 212/673-0330Think chilled vodka, he-man steaks, and schmaltzy performers singing songs from Fiddler on the Roof. Don't leave without ordering an egg cream-you'll get a carton of milk, a jar of Fox's U-bet chocolate syrup, and an old-fashioned bottle of seltzer brought right to your table. Good Jewish fun! DRINK East Side Company49 Essex St., 212/614-7408You feel like you're about to be shot out of a cannon at this tight tunnel of a bar, but the intimate surroundings work to great effect. The pressed-tin ceiling, cozy leather booths, raw bar, and perfect classic cocktails conspire to create a sophisticated, romantic place to rendezvous. Closed Mon. DRINK The Whiskey Ward121 Essex St., near Rivington St., 212/477-2998A modern-day saloon with a heady list of scotches and single-malt bourbons. SHOP Bluestockings Books172 Allen St., 212/777-6028, bluestockings.comStacks of empowering titles devoted to revolutionary plights, radical philosophies, and controversial topics du jour. Its volunteer employees are bookish rebels with a cause. SHOP Jutta Neumann 158 Allen St., 212/982-7048, juttaneumann-newyork.com Hands-on boutique sells a rainbow of leather accessories and useful items, from handbags to key chains. Everything is crafted on-site, and the prices are nice. Closed Sun. PLAY Landmark's Sunshine Cinema143 E. Houston St., 212/358-7709, landmarktheatres.comA plush art-house movie theater that's housed in a former Yiddish vaudeville theater. PLAY The Slipper Room167 Orchard St., at Stanton St., 212/253-7246, slipperroom.comHomespun va-va-voom burlesque. Showgirls (and showboys) shake their tail feathers on a Victorian, jewel-box stage. Other acts include the "Drag King Squad" and gothic belly dancing. Cover price: free to $10. PLAY The Delancey Lounge168 Delancey St., 212/254-9920Some of the country's hottest (and greenest) rock bands are fighting for billing at this triple-tiered club that's regularly frequented by music execs and celebs on the down low. The rooftop lounge is a treat in summer (BBQ, anyone?).

SEE Cast-Iron BuildingsCheap, quick to assemble, and able to have any design motif affixed to their facades (Baroque, Renaissance, etc.), SoHo's cast-iron buildings-which for decades hid sweatshops-reached their construction peak in the late 1800s. Broadway and Greene Streets are lined with them-two of the best examples are the 1904 Little Singer Building (561 Broadway) and the 1857 Haughwout Building (488-492 Broadway). SEE Moss146 Greene St., 212/204-7100, mossonline.comIt's fun to browse this upscale temple to modern industrial design. The gallery-cum-boutique reserves extra space for Italian furniture and lighting, but you'll also find jewelry, toys, and books. Its "bling-bling" products include a gold lemon squeezer designed by Philippe Starck. EAT L'Ecole462 Broadway, 212/219-3300, frenchculinary.comDo your part for education and sample the student creations at the French Culinary Institute. Dishes are thoughtfully executed, and the restaurant is run like a tight ship. Lunch is $20.05 for three delectable courses; dinner is $31.50 for five. Reservations recommended. Closed Sun. EAT Mooncake Foods28 Watts St., 212/219-8888Pan-Asian eats, almost all of which are priced under $10. Try the edamame soup, spicy hoisin fish taco, or Shanghai-style short ribs. Cash only. EAT Palacinka28 Grand St., 212/625-0362A friendly, low-key crêperie serving savory (buckwheat galettes with ham, eggs, and Gruyère cheese) as well as sweet-think bananas, chestnut cream, and layers of Nutella. Cash only. SPLURGE The Kitchen Club30 Prince St., 212/274-0025, thekitchenclub.comA small, convivial spot where Japanese-European influences mingle to make one of the city's most unusual menus. The owner's French bulldog, Chibi, often roams the dining room, which is adjacent to the sake bar. DRINK Merc Bar151 Mercer St., 212/966-2727, mercbar.comA well-aged cocktail lounge that still musters a hip vibe. Facade doors are flung wide open in nice weather, making it an especially cool spot to sip Cosmos in summer. DRINK Ð33 Crosby St., 212/219-8856Sangria, sherry, and potent mixed drinks are poured nightly in this sliver of a Spanish hideaway. It serves good tapas, too. SHOP Housing Works Used Books Café126 Crosby St., 212/334-3324, housingworks.orgA rambling used-book store that gets a steady stream of terrific, hard-to-find titles. There's a homey café, and proceeds go to AIDS charity. Hole up here on a rainy day. SHOP INA21 Prince St., 212/334-9048, inanyc.comA Nolita consignment shop with a dependable selection of seasonal castaways of high-end women's clothing. Browsing is like rifling through your most stylish friend's closet. There's a SoHo location (101 Thompson St., 212/941-4757) and a men's branch, too (262 Mott St., 212/334-2210). SHOP MoMA Design Store81 Spring St., 646/613-1367, momastore.orgAalto glassware, Mabolo totes, and Andy Warhol Pop Boxes are all for sale here. The store brims with gift ideas and with so many innovative items for the home, you'll want to redecorate. There's a reason the Museum of Modern Art has influenced our lives since 1929. SHOP Pearl River Mart477 Broadway, 212/431-4770, pearlriver.comA multilevel Chinese emporium that sells everything-from embroidered slippers to kids' chopsticks, paper lanterns to money cats. New Yorkers love it. PLAY Café Noir32 Grand St., 212/431-7910Listen to DJs spin Afrobeat and Latin music for the price of a caipirinha (or any other drink) at this breezy North African bar and restaurant. PLAY HERE Arts Center145 Sixth Ave., at Spring St., 212/647-0202, here.orgObie Award-winning collaborative arts center prides itself on provocative productions that lean heavily on high-tech bells and whistles. Late-night shows are especially fun, and weird.