New York: West Village

EAT ChikaLicious203 E. 10th St., 212/995-9511, chikalicious.com Sugar-infused tasting menus with dishes like mascarpone semifreddo, espresso granita, and coconut panna cotta with basil sorbet, wine pairings, and petits fours are yours at this ultramodern 400-square-foot dessert bar. EAT Crif Dogs113 St. Marks Pl., 212/614-2728Hot dogs deep fried for your indulgent pleasure. EAT Jewel Bako Makimono101 Second Ave., 212/253-7848Refined Japanese food-tartares, creative makis, and new takes on miso soup-at reasonable prices from culinary wunderkinds Jack and Grace Lamb. There are only 20 seats in all-that's more than their 12-seat formal dining room around the corner at the very precious Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar. EAT Mercadito179 Ave. B, 212/529-6490A bustling, convivial restaurant that's entirely devoted to authentic Mexican food-tender pork tacos, spicy chorizo, and made-to-order guacamole. Slurp a margarita on the back patio. EAT Miss Williamsburg Portavia228 E. 10th St., 212/228-5355, miss-williamsburg.comA feel-good Brooklyn import (the original is in a renovated diner at 206 Kent Ave., 718/963-0802) that churns out grandma-style Italian cooking. The menu includes rich pastas and desserts layered with bold flavors, such as cheese fondue lasagna with pesto and panna cotta draped in berries. DRINK International Bar120 1/2 First Ave., 212/777-9244An awesome (and scruffy) granddad bar, where the drinks are simple, the decor nonexistent, and a killer jukebox is packed with Devo, Run-D.M.C., and the Buzzcocks. Want confirmation of its cool factor? The Coen brothers have been known to belly up to the bar. DRINK Angel's Share8 Stuyvesant St., 2nd Fl., 212/777-5415Masterful bartenders tend this once-little-known Japanese lounge. It's no longer a secret, so hit it on off-hours, or go early. Try the mint julep. Note: It won't seat groups larger than four. DRINK Bar Veloce175 Second Ave., 212/260-3200, barveloce.comA popular neutral-toned Italian wine bar with high, narrow tables, blond woods, and smart spotlighting. Its appeal has only increased since it was the site of a freak incident in 2002-a crazy wielding guns and a sword was tackled to the ground by two female patrons. No one was seriously hurt, so drink up! SHOP Gominyc443 E. Sixth St., 212/979-0388, gominyc.comRecycling is brought to new creative heights at this green boutique where everything from clothes to furniture is made from sustainable materials. Items such as bike-chain bracelets and "pot holder" rugs are surprisingly chic. SHOP Kiehl's109 Third Ave., 212/677-3171, kiehls.com154-year-old pharmacy with a no-frills aesthetic sells its own label of beauty products. Its lip balm, grapefruit body lotion, and other all-natural products have garnered a devoted following. Ask for some free samples. SHOP East Ninth StreetBetween Ave. A and Second Ave.One of the first enclaves of do-it-yourself designers who thumbed their noses at the fashion and design industries, embarked on the fast track, and opened their own boutiques. PLAY Rififi/Cinema Classics332 E. 11th St., 212/677-1027, cinemaclassics.comA bar/screening room that's part college lounge, part underground arts venue. It pays homage to celluloid greatness and shows old cult horror and sci-fi films on Mon. nights. Other nights are devoted to music (Fri. & Sat.), burlesque (Thurs. & Sun.), and stand-up comedy (Wed.). Cover price: free to $5. PLAY Amato Opera Theatre319 Bowery, 212/228-8200, amato.orgGrand opera in a tiny theater. Anthony and Sally Amato have been turning their passion for arias into a reality since 1948, providing a professional space for young singers to stretch their vocal chords and strut their stuff. (Many have gone on to sing opera on great stages around the world.) You can see a phenomenal production like La Bohème for a fraction of what you'd pay uptown. Adults $30, students and seniors $25. PLAY Joe's PubPublic Theater, 425 Lafayette St., 212/539-8770, joespub.comNamed for the theater's late founder, Joseph Papp. It has perhaps the most exciting roster of singers, musicians, comedians, and assorted off-beat acts anywhere in the city. Expect star-spottings. Shows nightly. From $7.

SEE Guss' Lower East Side Pickles85-87 Orchard St., 917/701-4000Homemade pickles sold straight from massive barrels of vinegary brine have been making people pucker since 1920. To get a glimpse of this true Lower East Side institution, you might have to stand in line. Closed Sat. SEE Lower East Side Tenement Museum90 Orchard St., near Broome St., 212/431-0233, tenement.orgDon't miss this museum! NYC's rich immigrant history is brought to life in an 1863 tenement building. Guided tours show how a Jewish family lived in the 1870s and how a Sicilian-Catholic family lived in the 1930s. The quarters were shockingly cramped (e.g., two toilets for every four families). Adults $13, students and seniors $11. Additional walking tours of the Lower East Side leave Sat. and Sun. at 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. Call to reserve space in advance. EAT Falai68 Clinton St., 212/253-1960, falainyc.comA bright white Italian restaurant where the only color is on the plate. The food is all fatto in casa, or made in-house; the Florentine owner (formerly the pastry chef at Le Cirque) is a purist and makes all his own pasta (and even chocolate) by hand. Desserts, such as profiteroles with Marsala mousse and chocolate sauce, are marvels. EAT FreemansFreeman Alley, off Rivington St., between the Bowery and Chrystie St., 212/420-0012, freemansrestaurant.comAn unpretentious, taxidermy-filled American restaurant that emits a strong whiff of yesteryear-old-fashioned cocktails and appetizers like "devils on horseback" (bacon-wrapped prunes stuffed with Stilton cheese). The bartenders are first-rate. EAT Il Laboratorio del Gelato95 Orchard St., at Broome St., 212/343-9922, laboratoriodelgelato.comOver 75 varieties of delicious gelato and sorbet. It scoops all the standards but also has some off-beat flavors, too, including black sesame, honey lavender, and green fig. And there really is a "lab," where ice-creamologists wear white coats. EAT Teany90 Rivington St., 212/475-9190, teany.comA delightful, airy café owned by Grammy Award-winning musician Moby. It sells over 90 kinds of tea from around the world, and mostly veggie snacks. Window boxes add extra charm, and even the bathroom is inviting. SPLURGE Sammy's Roumanian Steakhouse157 Chrystie St., at Delancey St., 212/673-0330Think chilled vodka, he-man steaks, and schmaltzy performers singing songs from Fiddler on the Roof. Don't leave without ordering an egg cream-you'll get a carton of milk, a jar of Fox's U-bet chocolate syrup, and an old-fashioned bottle of seltzer brought right to your table. Good Jewish fun! DRINK East Side Company49 Essex St., 212/614-7408You feel like you're about to be shot out of a cannon at this tight tunnel of a bar, but the intimate surroundings work to great effect. The pressed-tin ceiling, cozy leather booths, raw bar, and perfect classic cocktails conspire to create a sophisticated, romantic place to rendezvous. Closed Mon. DRINK The Whiskey Ward121 Essex St., near Rivington St., 212/477-2998A modern-day saloon with a heady list of scotches and single-malt bourbons. SHOP Bluestockings Books172 Allen St., 212/777-6028, bluestockings.comStacks of empowering titles devoted to revolutionary plights, radical philosophies, and controversial topics du jour. Its volunteer employees are bookish rebels with a cause. SHOP Jutta Neumann 158 Allen St., 212/982-7048, juttaneumann-newyork.com Hands-on boutique sells a rainbow of leather accessories and useful items, from handbags to key chains. Everything is crafted on-site, and the prices are nice. Closed Sun. PLAY Landmark's Sunshine Cinema143 E. Houston St., 212/358-7709, landmarktheatres.comA plush art-house movie theater that's housed in a former Yiddish vaudeville theater. PLAY The Slipper Room167 Orchard St., at Stanton St., 212/253-7246, slipperroom.comHomespun va-va-voom burlesque. Showgirls (and showboys) shake their tail feathers on a Victorian, jewel-box stage. Other acts include the "Drag King Squad" and gothic belly dancing. Cover price: free to $10. PLAY The Delancey Lounge168 Delancey St., 212/254-9920Some of the country's hottest (and greenest) rock bands are fighting for billing at this triple-tiered club that's regularly frequented by music execs and celebs on the down low. The rooftop lounge is a treat in summer (BBQ, anyone?).

SEE Cast-Iron BuildingsCheap, quick to assemble, and able to have any design motif affixed to their facades (Baroque, Renaissance, etc.), SoHo's cast-iron buildings-which for decades hid sweatshops-reached their construction peak in the late 1800s. Broadway and Greene Streets are lined with them-two of the best examples are the 1904 Little Singer Building (561 Broadway) and the 1857 Haughwout Building (488-492 Broadway). SEE Moss146 Greene St., 212/204-7100, mossonline.comIt's fun to browse this upscale temple to modern industrial design. The gallery-cum-boutique reserves extra space for Italian furniture and lighting, but you'll also find jewelry, toys, and books. Its "bling-bling" products include a gold lemon squeezer designed by Philippe Starck. EAT L'Ecole462 Broadway, 212/219-3300, frenchculinary.comDo your part for education and sample the student creations at the French Culinary Institute. Dishes are thoughtfully executed, and the restaurant is run like a tight ship. Lunch is $20.05 for three delectable courses; dinner is $31.50 for five. Reservations recommended. Closed Sun. EAT Mooncake Foods28 Watts St., 212/219-8888Pan-Asian eats, almost all of which are priced under $10. Try the edamame soup, spicy hoisin fish taco, or Shanghai-style short ribs. Cash only. EAT Palacinka28 Grand St., 212/625-0362A friendly, low-key crêperie serving savory (buckwheat galettes with ham, eggs, and Gruyère cheese) as well as sweet-think bananas, chestnut cream, and layers of Nutella. Cash only. SPLURGE The Kitchen Club30 Prince St., 212/274-0025, thekitchenclub.comA small, convivial spot where Japanese-European influences mingle to make one of the city's most unusual menus. The owner's French bulldog, Chibi, often roams the dining room, which is adjacent to the sake bar. DRINK Merc Bar151 Mercer St., 212/966-2727, mercbar.comA well-aged cocktail lounge that still musters a hip vibe. Facade doors are flung wide open in nice weather, making it an especially cool spot to sip Cosmos in summer. DRINK Ð33 Crosby St., 212/219-8856Sangria, sherry, and potent mixed drinks are poured nightly in this sliver of a Spanish hideaway. It serves good tapas, too. SHOP Housing Works Used Books Café126 Crosby St., 212/334-3324, housingworks.orgA rambling used-book store that gets a steady stream of terrific, hard-to-find titles. There's a homey café, and proceeds go to AIDS charity. Hole up here on a rainy day. SHOP INA21 Prince St., 212/334-9048, inanyc.comA Nolita consignment shop with a dependable selection of seasonal castaways of high-end women's clothing. Browsing is like rifling through your most stylish friend's closet. There's a SoHo location (101 Thompson St., 212/941-4757) and a men's branch, too (262 Mott St., 212/334-2210). SHOP MoMA Design Store81 Spring St., 646/613-1367, momastore.orgAalto glassware, Mabolo totes, and Andy Warhol Pop Boxes are all for sale here. The store brims with gift ideas and with so many innovative items for the home, you'll want to redecorate. There's a reason the Museum of Modern Art has influenced our lives since 1929. SHOP Pearl River Mart477 Broadway, 212/431-4770, pearlriver.comA multilevel Chinese emporium that sells everything-from embroidered slippers to kids' chopsticks, paper lanterns to money cats. New Yorkers love it. PLAY Café Noir32 Grand St., 212/431-7910Listen to DJs spin Afrobeat and Latin music for the price of a caipirinha (or any other drink) at this breezy North African bar and restaurant. PLAY HERE Arts Center145 Sixth Ave., at Spring St., 212/647-0202, here.orgObie Award-winning collaborative arts center prides itself on provocative productions that lean heavily on high-tech bells and whistles. Late-night shows are especially fun, and weird.

SEE Mott and Mulberry StreetsThese touristy "main streets" are worth mentioning because they serve as good bases for orienting yourself and exploring Chinatown and Little Italy. Mott is lined with Chinese (mostly Cantonese) restaurants, but nearby Pell, Bayard, and Doyers Streets are home to more authentic local grocers, tea salons, and lunch counters serving spicy Szechuan and Hunan food, but also lesser-known Fukien, Suzhou, and Zhuzhou flavors. Mulberry brims with kitsch and mediocre, overpriced restaurants, but its side streets are where you'll find wine bars and one-of-a-kind designer boutiques. SEE Museum of Chinese in the Americas70 Mulberry St., 212/619-4785, moca-nyc.orgThe experiences of Chinese immigrants are well documented in this fascinating second-floor museum. Photographs, memorabilia, and Asian-American art are all on display. Closed Mon. Adults $3, students and seniors $1; group tours of historic Chinatown $12. Call three weeks in advance to book the tour. EAT Nha Trang87 Baxter St., north of Bayard St., 212/233-5948A neighborhood favorite that dishes out Vietnamese food by the heaping plateful. Toothsome marinated pork chops with vermicelli and garlicky sautéed greens are winners. It's so authentic that there's even a "Don't stand on the toilet" sign in the bathroom. EAT Peking Duck House28 Mott St., near Chatham Sq., 212/227-1810A modern spot where it's all about the crispy fried duck, which, on occasion, is ceremoniously carved tableside. Try it moo-shu style, wrapped in rice pancakes. EAT Shanghai Cuisine 89 Bayard St., at Mulberry St., 212/732-8988Don't be tempted to order anything but the crab-pork soup dumplings-the combination of flavors is like none other. (A couple of baskets makes a meal.) Warning: The tiki drinks pack a punch. EAT Vincent's Restaurant119 Mott St., at Hester St., 212/226-8133A popular cafeteria specializing in southern Italian seafood dishes. Warning: It sometimes goes heavy on the spicy pepperoncini in its red sauce stewed with frutti de mare (mussels, calamari, etc.). DRINK Asia Roma40 Mulberry St., 212/385-1133The name, drink list, and lounge decor reflect the unlikely melding of cultures in the surrounding blocks. Think ginseng martinis and good Italian wines.