New York: Financial District

FINANCIAL DISTRICT / TRIBECA Cosmopolitan Hotel95 W. Broadway, 888/895-9400, cosmohotel.comOffers 120 smartly decorated, squeaky-clean rooms in an area of town sorely lacking in affordable, nonbusiness hotels. Service reviews are mixed, but who cares when you roll out of bed into the city's hottest hangouts? Doubles from $119. WEST VILLAGE Abingdon Guest House 13 Eighth Ave., 212/243-5384, abingdonguesthouse.comComprised of two homey 1850s town houses, this colorfully painted spot has either private or en suite bathrooms, and many rooms have nonworking fireplaces. Light sleepers should avoid rooms facing Eighth Ave. Check-in is at Brewbar Cafe, the coffeehouse downstairs. Doubles from $159. EAST VILLAGE Second Home on Second Avenue  221 Second Ave., 212/677-3161, secondhome.citysearch.comDon't be put off by the shabby facade of this 1900s town house-fun, even tastefully, appointed accommodations with soundproof windows lie inside. Choose from themed rooms-tribal, modern, Caribbean, and Peruvian. (The owner's from Peru.) Second-floor yoga classes are $20. Doubles from $90. UNION SQUARE / GRAMERCY Hotel 17225 E. 17th St., 212/475-2845, hotel17ny.comFriendly service and its location on leafy (and quiet) Stuyvesant Square Park sets this hotel apart. Perhaps you'll recognize the rooms from Woody Allen's silly film Manhattan Murder Mystery. Doubles from $79. CHELSEA The Chelsea Lodge318 W. 20th St., 800/373-1116, chelsealodge.comThis renovated European-style hotel in the heart of Chelsea has 22 rooms filled with American antiques and eclectic accents. One warning: Rooms have sinks and showers, but no WCs. Book far in advance. From $95. MIDTOWN EAST The Pickwick Arms 230 E. 51st St., 800/742-5945, pickwickarms.comThis beloved Midtown standby just got a face-lift and earns consistently high marks for its professional service, rates, and location. Pack light-rooms are small and some have shared baths, but you can always get some air on the rooftop garden. Doubles from $149. MIDTOWN WEST Ameritania230 W. 54th St., 888/664-6835, nychotels.comChic, comfortable, and quite possibly the best hotel value in Gotham. Extra niceties include Belgian linens, on-demand movies, and a hopping lobby bar. Doubles from $165. MIDTOWN WEST Hotel QT 125 W. 45th St., 212/354-2323, hotelqt.com Steps from Times Square, the latest property from hotelier wunderkind Andre Balazs. Attractively minimalist rooms with flat-screen TVs. And its lobby bar has a swimming pool-really! From $150. UPPER EAST SIDE Bentley Hotel 500 E. 62nd St., 212/644-6000, nychotels.comA sister property to the Ameritania, this modern hotel is decked out in neutral tones, and delivers stylish comfort. Its library, rooftop restaurant with good skyline views, and proximity to Bloomies are big pluses. Doubles from $165. UPPER WEST SIDE Country Inn the City 270 W. 77th St., 212/580-4183, countryinnthecity.comNo, you're not in the Cotswolds, but this English-inspired inn might transport you. Country antiques, four-poster beds, and hunting-lodge accents sing with Old World charm. Downsides are no credit cards and its three-day minimum stay. Reservations only. Doubles from $150. UPPER WEST SIDE Jazz on the Park36 W. 106th St., 212/932-1600, jazzonthepark.comA funky hostel-inn run by a hands-on international crew who put on summer BBQs. Linens, lockers, and laundry facilities provided. Dorm rooms from $25/night, private rooms from $75. SPLURGE Hotel on Rivington107 Rivington St., 212/475-2600, hotelonrivington.com The brainchild of Surface magazine and a United Nations of industrial and interior designers, this ultrafab hotel is the first high-rise (and hotel you'd actually want to stay in) on the Lower East Side, which means 360-degree views from every glass-walled room. Guests coo about the deep egg-shaped Japanese-style soaking tubs. Doubles from $255. TIP Hoofing it in NYC: It takes the average person one minute to walk one "short" (north-south) block, and two minutes to walk one "long block" (east-west) in Manhattan. Do the math.

TO / FROM THE AIRPORT New York Airport Service212/875-8200, nyairportservice.comShuttle bus between Manhattan (Grand Central Terminal, Port Authority, and Penn Station) and LaGuardia is $12 one way, $21 round trip; JFK is $15/$27. Departs approximately every 30 minutes. There's also a shuttle link between JFK and LaGuardia 7:30 a.m.-8 p.m., $13 each way. Newark Liberty Airport Express Bus Service(Olympia Trails), olympiabus.comShuttle bus transportation from Newark is $13 one way, $22 round trip. Departs every 30 minutes for stops at Penn Station, Grand Central, and Port Authority. AirTrain panynj.gov/airtrainFollow signs at JFK and Newark for connections into the city. Trains run every 10 minutes. Fare to/from JFK is $5, which must be purchased on a MetroCard. Trains stop at connecting subway stations, so add another $2 for subway fare. If coming from JFK, use the MetroCard machine at the train-subway transfer. Rides to/from Newark are free to/from the Newark Rail Link Station, where you get NJ Transit, which takes you to/from Penn Station for $11.55. Trains leave every 30 minutes. GETTING AROUND Subway & Bus mta.nyc.ny.us $2 flat fare; MetroCards available at subway station kiosks. A daily "Fun Pass" is $7; a seven-day pass is $21. Ask for map at booth. Single-use free transfer available if going from bus to bus, bus to subway, or subway to bus. Ask for transfer ticket from bus driver if using change instead of MetroCard. Taxis Initial fare: $2.50; 40¢ each 1?5 mile or for each 90 seconds stopped in traffic. Add 50¢ for rides after 8 p.m.; add $1 Mon.-Fri. from 4 p.m.-8 p.m. Taxis take up to four passengers. PedicabsAverage rate: $1 per minute; operate evenings and weekends. Licensed "peddlers" only. Staten Island Ferry718/390-5253, siferry.comFree; 25-minute ride between Whitehall St. in Lower Manhattan and St. George Terminal on Staten Island. Awesome views of N.Y. Harbor, the skyline, and Lady Liberty. New York Water Taxi212/742-1969, newyorkwatertaxi.comA double-decker, high-speed catamaran that makes 10 stops in Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Queens, including Chelsea Piers, Christopher St., and South St. Seaport. $5 for single rides, $20 for two-day hop-on/hop-off ticket. Hoofing it in NYC It takes the average person one minute to walk one "short" (north-south) block, and two minutes to walk one "long block" (east-west) in Manhattan. Do the math. WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWN Free on the Street The Village Voice or New York Press At Newsstands   Time Out New York, timeout.com   New York Magazine, nymetro.com   The New Yorker, newyorker.com TOURS Big Onion Walking Tours212/439-1090, bigonion.com Lively, informed historic- and ethnic-themed tours led by guides with advanced degrees in history. Check online calendar or call for meeting spots. Adults $15, seniors $12, and students $10. No reservations required; schedule subject to change in case of inclement weather. Municipal Art Society of NY Tours212/935-3960, mas.org/events/tours.cfmExpert in-depth exploration of city architecture. Weekday walking tours $12; weekend walking/bus combo tour $15. Free tours of Grand Central Terminal only depart Wed. at 12:30 p.m. from the information booth in the Main Concourse. Nosh Walks212/222-2243, noshwalks.comTaste your way from Odessa to Bombay. Most tours are $20 and do not include the cost of food. Sat.-Sun. only. Radical Walking Tours 718/492-0069, radicalwalkingtours.orgSee NYC through the eyes of anarchists, revolutionaries, and good old-fashioned hell-raisers. Summer schedule suspended; call for upcoming tours. $10 per tour. Gray Line New York800/669-0051, graylinenewyork.comFare is $49 for a two-day hop-on/hop-off tour by double-decker bus. Makes 42 stops in all. All tickets must be purchased online, by phone, or at the official start location, 777 8th Ave. at W. 47th St. Pioneer Sailings From South Street Seaport Museum212/748-8786, southstseaport.org Schooner sailing tours of N.Y. Harbor beat the popular but noisy Circle Line any day. $30. Daily sailings May-Sept.; call for times. NUMBERS TO KNOW   Movies Moviefone, 212/777-FILM, moviefone.com   Theater Telecharge, 212/239-6200, telecharge.com   Sports & concert tickets Ticketmaster, 212/307-7171, ticketmaster.com   Directory information 411   Emergencies Police and Fire Departments, 911   Complaints, non-emergencies NYC citizen service line, 311   Mayor's Office for People With Disabilities 212/788-2830

SEE Bacardi Buildings2100 Biscayne Blvd., 305/573-8511A modernist masterpiece, best known for the white and blue floral murals sprawling across its facades, which were designed and installed by Brazilian artist Francisco Brennand in the early 1960s. There's a small, so-so museum of Bacardi memorabilia on the main floor here, but unlike the original museum in Puerto Rico, this one is normally off-limits to visitors. SEE Living Room Building4000 Miami Ave.Local husband-and-wife architects Roberto Behar and Rosario Marquardt's low-rise office building has an exterior entryway that looks like a living room (hence the name). There's a giant concrete couch, an oversized floor lamp, and even a "painting"-a framed hole through which you can see the sky. SEE Little HaitiThe main drag of this vibrant immigrant district is 54th St. just west of Biscayne Blvd. The blocks are filled with cafés, stores selling books in Creole and French, and record shops buzzing with Caribbean rhythms. There are also several botanicas, where adherents of the voodoo-like Santeria can purchase ritual potions, candles, and statuettes. Passersby are welcome to enter, but not to take photographs. SEE The Margulies Collection at the Warehouse591 NW 27th St., 305/576-1051, margulieswarehouse.comArt maven Marty Margulies recently renovated his museum, which showcases his astonishing collection of avant-garde art, especially photography. Diverse talents such as classic writer/photographer Eudora Welty and contemporary artist Vanessa Beecroft are represented, along with 3-D installations. Open Oct.-May, Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-4 p.m.; free. EAT Cafe Cafe5580 NE 4th Ct., 305/754-6700A down-home café with mismatched furniture-overstuffed leather sofas, antique tables, bent wooden chairs-and a leafy, grove-like patio shaded by umbrellas. Simple salads and sandwiches make up the menu. EAT The District35 NE 40th St., 305/576-7242, thedistrictmiami.comTrendy bar/restaurant/lounge with a palm-shaded courtyard, a fountain in front, and a larger seating area inside at the back. Note the unusual yet stylish touches throughout, like the flowers encased in the backlit Lucite bar. The modern American food is less impressive than the stiff, fruity cocktails. EAT Dogma Grill7030 Biscayne Blvd., 305/759-3433 Cheery hot-dog stand with red tables, white umbrellas, and an inventive menu-you'll find standard favorites like chili dogs and less-standard concoctions such as the Athens, sprinkled with feta cheese, olives, tomato, and cucumber. DRINK Grass Restaurant & Lounge28 NE 40th St., 305/573-3355 A French Polynesian bar that looks like a Dior-designed tiki hut. Come dressed to the nines if you want a peek inside-it's notorious for velvet-rope burn. Cover from $20. DRINK Magnum Restaurant and Lounge 709 NE 79th St., 305/757-3368 Lush red banquettes and a hidden entrance give this out-of-the-way Little Haiti restaurant/bar the impression of a bordello or speakeasy. Go for the live Casablanca-style piano. PLAY Churchill's5501 NE 2nd Ave., 305/757-1807, churchillspub.comBrit-inflected-a huge Union Jack covers the exterior, soccer games play on the TV-and reliable rock venue that's nurtured emerging and local talent for 20 years. Both Marilyn Manson and the Mavericks played their first gigs here. Covers range from free to $10. FOOD & DRINK Though Miami has its own menu lingo, it's easy enough to decipher. Those touting "Floribbean" food basically serve bikini-ready cuisine: light, diet-friendly dishes composed of fruit, fresh fish, and Caribbean spices. Cuban cuisine is more indulgent, much of it deep-fried-vaca frita (chunks of beef fried with onions), tostones (mashed, fried plantains), and ropa vieja (literally "old clothes," but actually a rich, decadent combo of shredded beef and vegetables stewed with spices). Be sure to try one of the Caribbean cocktails on most menus. There's the thirst-quenching Cuba libre (a rum and Coke with a squeeze of fresh lime) and the aromatic mojito, made from a blend of rum, muddled mint, lime, and sugar. TIPBill Baggs Cape Florida State Park At the tip of Key Biscayne, this scene-free, family-friendly alternative to most Miami beaches has a historic 1825 lighthouse, picnic spots, and bike rentals for $5 per hour (1200 S. Crandon Blvd., 305/361-5811).

SEE The Biltmore Hotel1200 Anastasia Ave., 305/445-1926, biltmorehotel.comEnormous landmark modeled after the same Seville cathedral as the Freedom Tower. It looks like a movie set, with 25-foot-high frescoed walls, vaulted ceilings, and immense fireplaces. A one-time celebrity hangout for the likes of Judy Garland and Al Capone, it's now a mainstream hotel, though the huge pool still oozes glam. Free tours of the premises every Sunday afternoon at 1:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. SEE International Villages Coral Gables was built in the 1920s as a planned city and intended as a livable, beautiful alternative to then-grimy Miami. The developers cleverly incorporated points of interest around town, including clusters of buildings designed to ape exotic overseas lands; these hamlets were nicknamed the International Villages. The most photo-worthy? The Chinese Village, with brightly colored roofs and ornately carved balconies (on Sansovino and Castania aves.); and the French Normandy Village, which looks thoroughly Renaissance thanks to its thick, chocolate-brown stucco facade and red-tile roofs (400 block of Viscaya Ave. at Le Jeune Rd.). SEE Venetian Pool2701 De Soto Blvd., 305/460-5356, venetianpool.comA coral rock quarry that was dug in 1923, while the city was being constructed, and then turned into a public pool. Surrounded by shaded porticos, wrought-iron railings, and Venetian-style bridges, the water winds its way through coral rock caves and spills over two waterfalls. There's even a man-made beach for sunbathers. $6.25-$9.50, depending on season. EAT Burger Bob's2001 Granada Blvd., 305/567-3100A homey café in the clubhouse of the public Granada Golf Course. Expect green Formica chairs, white plastic tables, yellow mustard bottles, and first-rate chili. EAT Estate Wines92 Miracle Mile, 305/442-9915Wine store-café specializing in hot and cold sandwiches (the gooey ham-and-cheese is a standout) and house-baked pastries. Sit at the communal table and meet the locals. EAT Les Halles>2415 Ponce de Leon Blvd., 305/461-1099, leshalles.netCozy, mid-priced French bistro that serves classics such as steak tartare and mussels and fries in an authentic atmosphere. SPLURGE Ortanique on the Mile278 Miracle Mile, 305/446-7710 Understated foodie favorite that couldn't be more different than the faddish hotspots in South Beach. Serving innovative, adventurous, tropical fusion in a lush setting, it's the ideal place for an anniversary dinner or a first date. (Save room for the passion fruit sabayon.) DRINK JohnMartin's 253 Miracle Mile, 305/445-3777, johnmartins.comA friendly Irish bar where you can drink a pint of Guinness amid wood-paneled veneer. Free live music starts around 8:30 p.m. every Fri. and Sat. DRINK Titanic Brewery & Restaurant 5813 Ponce de Leon Blvd., 305/667-2537, titanicbrewery.comCaptain Smith's Rye Ale and other top-notch beers are made on the premises. A Wed.-Sun. lineup of live pop/rock bands is another draw for frat boys and students from the nearby University of Miami. The free shows start at 9 p.m. on weekdays and 10 p.m. on weekends. SHOP Books & Books265 Aragon Ave., 305/442-4408, booksandbooks.comLovingly stocked independent bookstore with browsable shelves featuring an impressive selection of travel and local-interest titles. There's also an on-site café with seating in the enclosed courtyard. Free jazz starts at 7 p.m. on Fri. SPLURGE Rene Ruiz Couture 262 Miracle Mile, 305/445-2352A local fashion legend, red-carpet staple Ruiz is known for his stretchy chiffon-and-lace gowns and sequined accessories-all at couture prices. PLAY Actors' Playhouse280 Miracle Mile, 305/444-9293, actorsplayhouse.orgRestored 600-seat art deco movie theater that's now home to many excellent Broadway projects, like Little Shop of Horrors. Tickets from $30. PLAY GableStage1200 Anastasia Ave., 305/445-1119, gablestage.org Florida premieres of off-Broadway hits set against the stunning Biltmore backdrop. Worth checking out even if you're not a diehard theater fan. From $35.