Rome: Testaccio and Ostiense

Rome's village-like left bank is the centro storico's funky little sister. Its northern streets, around Regina Coeli prison, have become a cool bohemian enclave. Take it all in from the tree-lined Gianicolo hill. SEE Il Gianicolo (Janiculum hill) Passeggiata del Gianicolo (stairs from Via Garibaldi) Dominating the northwestern boundary of Trastevere, Rome's lookout par excellence is a long ridge lined with stately trees and busts of famous Italians. At the southern end of the panoramic walk is the Fontanone, an oversized 17th-century fountain basin. At the northern end, the Janiculum cannon fires a blank shot every day at noon, scaring the bejesus out of unprepared bystanders. SEE Villa Farnesina Via della Lungara 230, 011-39/06-6802-7268 Just past the ancient city gate of Porta Settimiana, the former residence of the Chigi, a family of hard-partying Renaissance bankers, has lush, marine-themed frescoes by Raphael. The eye-popping Triumph of Galatea, with its undersea background of teal blue, is a visual treat when you've seen one too many earth-toned renditions of the Madonna and Child. Closed Sun. $6.25. Cash only. EAT Hostaria da Corrado Via della Pelliccia 39, 011-39/06-580-6004 Massimo Conti's humble kitchen functions mostly as a canteen for the motorcycle mechanics and furniture craftsmen whose shops are nearby, but anyone is welcome to have a sit-down meal here. The menu is small and changes daily, but count on hearty pastas, side dishes of spinach and cicoria (chicory), and roasted meats, accompanied by killer rosemary potatoes. Closed Sun. EAT Sisini Venanzo Via di S. Francesco a Ripa 137, 011-39/06-589-7110 It looks like just another Roman pizza-to-go joint from the outside, but discerning locals will walk several blocks (which is saying a lot in this Vespa-dependent town) to get a slice of the mushroom-and-potato pizza. Closed Sun. Cash only. SPLURGE Rivadestra Via della Penitenza 7, 011-39/06-6830-7053, rivadestra.com The "Right Bank" (a puzzling name, since it's in Trastevere) takes a stand against the minimalist aesthetic that has swept through Rome's culinary scene in recent years. The restaurant flouts fusion in favor of gourmet Italian cooking. The menu, which has included such items as creamed asparagus with oysters and turbot with espresso sauce and snap peas, changes every month. The intimate dining room looks like it came from an 18th-century papal palace, with iron candelabras and an ornate green front door. A trendy, buzzy spot for artists and jet-setters in the up-and-coming neighborhood around Regina Coeli prison. Dinner only. Closed Sun. $57 per person, excluding wine. DRINK Ombre Rosse Piazza Sant'Egidio 12, 011-39-06/588-4155 Little more than a glorified coffee bar, but as long as you've got good company and you can snag a table on the front porch, you've got one of the best watering holes in Trastevere. Every night, from sundown to the wee hours, characters from all walks of Roman life walk through the tiny piazza. Settle into a bright blue chair, order a vodka lemon, and watch the parade go by. Closed Sun. morning. SHOP Fuori Orario Via del Moro 29, 011-39/06-581-7181 Display tables in the tiny boutique are filled with colorful trousers, embellished tees, and funky skirts by smaller French and Italian labels, but the real deals here are the leather jackets for men and women. Most are under $200, and the wide range of styles and colors demonstrates Italian design sense: Jewel tones like teal and yellow are muted, not garish, and cuts are sexy and flattering.   ESCAPE Ostia Antica Viale dei Romagnoli 717, Ostia Antica, 011-39/06-5635-8099 The easiest and perhaps most worthwhile day trip from the city is to ancient Rome's port town. The shady, sprawling archaeological site includes ruins of tombs, theaters, baths, apartment buildings, public latrines, laundries, bakeries, and the Roman equivalent of the neighborhood café, called thermopolium (hot place). As comprehensive an overview of ancient daily life as Pompeii, and far less crowded. From Porta San Paolo (Piramide metro station) take an Ostia-Lido train to Ostia Antica. Closed Mon. $5. PLAY Big Mama Vicolo di S. Francesco a Ripa 18, 011-39/06-581-2551, bigmama.it Who knew Rome could sing the blues? Blocky wooden tables in the surprisingly sophisticated, often raucous, basement joint are coated with black paint, spilled beer, and the memory of cigarettes past. International blues, jazz, and soul acts regularly take to the faux-brick-backed stage. Also appearing here are talented local bands, like Più Bestial Che Blues, who will have you dancing to soulful, energetic covers of Prince, Ray Charles, and the Rolling Stones. It's a small place; for tables with the best view of the stage, you'll need to book in advance. Tables are held (without charge) until 10 p.m.; shows start at 10:30 p.m. Closed summer months.   TIP Restaurants are often closed in August; call in advance to confirm.

The elegant, crowded area from Piazza del Popolo to the Spanish Steps is retail heaven. To the east, Villa Borghese is a green escape. Below, Via Vittorio Veneto's hotels and cafés draw seekers of la dolce vita. SEE Ara Pacis Museum Lungotevere in Augusta near Ponte Cavour, 011-39/06-8205-9127 In 1996, American architect Richard Meier was commissioned to design a new exhibition space for a celebratory altar from 9 b.c., one of the finest surviving examples of Roman sculpture. Meier's contemporary-looking pavilion, which has been criticized for its resemblance to a "Texas gas station," is the first new building erected in the historic center of Rome since Mussolini's reign. Closed Mon. $8.25. SEE Crypt of the Capuchin Monks Under Santa Maria Immacolata Concezione, Via Veneto 27, 011-39/06-487-1185, cappucciniviaveneto.it From the 17th to the 19th centuries, the skeletons of thousands of Capuchin monks were dismantled and meticulously arranged, according to bone type, in six chapels. Ribs and finger bones form delicate floral motifs, and femurs are stacked like firewood under dioramas of still-clothed skeletons said to be waiting for the Second Coming. Some visitors are freaked out by the "corrupt" use of human remains, but most are too fascinated to care. Closed Thurs. A small donation of a euro or two is expected.   TIP To skip the frequently long lines for entry to the Colosseum, buy your tickets at the Palatine box office (200 yards away, on Via di S. Gregorio 30). Palatine tickets are good at the Colosseum, and vice versa, and once you have your ticket, you can proceed past the line and straight to the entry turnstiles. You can also prebook your tickets through Pierreci (011-39/06-3996-7700, pierreci.it) and pick them up directly at the Colosseum will-call window, but there's a $2 surcharge. Colosseum/Palatine tickets from $11. Cash only. EAT Osteria della Frezza Via della Frezza 16, 011-39/06-3211-1482, gusto.it A '30s-style osteria, where small plates (cicchetti) are paired with great wines. Choose from cheeses, olives, and charcuterie, as well as tapas-sized helpings of dishes like roasted lamb. In a back room, you can enjoy traditional meals. But the front salon, with its black-and-white tiles and dark wood and leather, is where the action is. EAT San Marco Via Sardegna 38G, 011-39/06-4201-2620 Take your pick from the countless pastas, meats, and pizzas served in differently styled dining rooms, including a modern New York--style bar area in front and a cozy, library-ish back room. Professionals from the offices around Via Veneto have made this their go-to happy hour and casual dinner joint. It's big and efficient enough, though, that you'll never wait for a table. DRINK Caffè delle Arti Via A. Gramsci 73 (next to the Villa Borghese park), 011-39/06-3265-1236 On a terrace attached to the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna and shaded by the trees of the Villa Borghese, this is a great spot for a midday glass of wine or beer. From May to September, the bar stays open well into the evening, with balmy weather drawing an attractive crowd into the depths of the park. Closes at 6 p.m. Mon. SHOP C.U.C.I.N.A. Via Mario de' Fiori 65, 011-39/06-679-1275, cucinastore.com Outfit your kitchen at the emporium of wooden, earthenware, and stainless-steel cooking tools, in basic shapes that have served Italian housewives for centuries. Primitive, inexpensive machines (food mills for homemade tomato sauce, Bialetti stove-top espresso makers) may look unfamiliar, but they're the staples of the Italian kitchen. Closed Mon. morning and Sun. SHOP Fabriano Via del Babuino 173, 011-39/06-3260-0361, fabrianoboutique.com One of Italy's most renowned stationers, home to upscale art and writing papers, as well as beautiful blank journals and address books, some bound with reproductions of old maps of Rome and Venice. Closed Sun. PLAY Villa Borghese rowboats Laghetto di Villa Borghese A man-made lake, complete with fake Roman temple, in the heart of the city's most famous public park. The barche a remi (boats) aren't the swiftest vessels, but they're a giddy way to break out of the sightseeing grind. 10 a.m.--7 p.m. daily, weather permitting. $6.25 per hour, cash only.   God's green earth: visiting the gardens at the Vatican Once you've paid homage to Bernini's talents at St. Peter's Square, ogled Michelangelo's handiwork at the Sistine Chapel, and wandered through the numerous smaller museums at the Vatican, consider taking in the gardens to the north and west. Once filled with vineyards and orchards, the space is now laced with winding paths, flowers, groves, and fountains--a true oasis in the middle of Rome. There are also medieval structures built by popes past, including the prominent Villa Pia. Two-hour garden tours usually depart Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at 10 a.m. Reserve at least four days in advance by calling 011-39/06-6988-4676, or e-mailing visiteguidate.musei@scv.va. $15, cash only. For more info, contact the Vatican Tourism Office (011-39/06-698-81662, vatican.va).

Dramatic ruins stud the green belt of world-famous archaeological sites south of the Capitoline hill. To the east, the Esquiline hill climbs past medieval Monti, ending at the seedy Termini area. SEE Case Romane del Celio Clivo di Scauro (Piazza S. Giovanni e Paolo), 011-39/06-7045-4544, caseromane.it Just south of the Colosseum and removed from the tourist chaos, the Celio hill is home to sunbaked brick walls, unkempt greenery, and several rustic churches. Lying beneath the church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo are the Case Romane, a group of third-century a.d. Roman homes with well-preserved wall frescoes. Fortunately, this site is open to the public. It's a rare opportunity to visit one of the few surviving examples of ancient domestic architecture. Closed Tues. and Wed. $7.50. SEE Tabularium Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, 011-39/06-8205-9127, museicapitolini.org Presiding over the northern end of the Roman Forum valley like a custom-built viewing gallery, the vaulted arcades of the Tabularium, or Roman records hall, date back to 78 b.c. but have only been open to the public since 2000. The building is a potent demonstration of the structural strength of arches and vaults, and its ponderous red tufa blocks, made from soft volcanic stone, have served as the foundation of the Palazzo Senatorio (city hall) since the 11th century. Closed Mon. $7.75. EAT Hostaria Isidoro Via S. Giovanni in Laterano 59A, 011-39/06-700-8266 Revel in the glory of pasta at this cozy hostaria, where the specialty is the assaggini misti (pasta tasting menu). Partitioned cafeteria-style plates are heaped with steaming gnocchi with Gorgonzola sauce, tagliolini with artichokes, or penne with walnut-cream sauce--to name a few dishes. Prices are based on how many rounds you last. Closed for lunch Sat. SPLURGE Crostaceria Ipanema Via dei Capocci 26, 011-39/06-482-4758 A candlelit bamboo-walled dining room that's a memorable setting for a seafood feast. Whether raw or cooked, the lobster, mussels, clams, crabs, crayfish, shrimp, and scallops dazzle the taste buds with their freshness and subtle seasonings. The house torre dei frutti di mare (tower of raw and steamed shellfish and crustaceans, from $38) is a showstopper, presented with theatrical flair by skilled and friendly staff. Closed Sun. Dinner only. DRINK Al Vino Al Vino Via dei Serpenti 19, 011-39/06-485-803 A small, convivial enoteca (wine bar) with a quiet back room and a louder, more sociable front room. Wines by the bottle or glass, from all price ranges, include old favorites like Brunello di Montalcino, an exquisite full-bodied red from Tuscany, and harder-to-find regional varietals such as Colli Lanuvini, an inexpensive white made on the volcanic hills of south Rome. You can also order plates heaped with olives, bread, and cured meats and cheeses. DRINK Zest Via F. Turati 171, 011-39/06-444-841, rome.radissonsas.com With cocktail tables set up on the swimming-pool deck of the four-year-old Radisson SAS hotel, this rooftop bar is a minimalist oasis in the seedy district south of Termini station. It's especially popular in summer, when organized nighttime poolside parties are the norm. The hypnotic view from the pool deck, over the 1930s travertine arches of the train station, could have inspired a de Chirico painting. SHOP Capitoline Museums bookshop Piazza del Campidoglio 1, 011-39/06-678-2913, museicapitolini.org Great for souvenirs. The functional or frivolous curios are inspired by classical antiquity. Wonderful children's books about ancient life and all manner of prints of local landmarks are also for sale. Closed Mon. SHOP LOL Piazza degli Zingari 11, 011-39/06-481-4160 A clever mix of retail and gallery space, this boutique in newly trendy Monti sells edgy apparel and accessories by up-and-coming designers, while simultaneously exhibiting artwork by young European painters and photographers. A pleasant surprise after the mass-market threads on nearby Via Nazionale. Closed Sun.   ESCAPE Circolo Cavalieri dell'Appia Antica Via dei Cercenii 15, 011-39/06-780-1214 Take a horseback tour of the Appian Way, and commune with the spirits of Roman legionnaires. A mile south of the Catacombs, this no-frills stable offers one-hour rides along the 2,300-year-old basalt flagstones of the "Queen of Roads" and through the countryside,which is strewn with ruins of tombs and imperial retreats. You'll also see to-die-for residences of modern-day rich-and-famous Romans, as well as working farms. Moonlight rides offered June--Sept. Have your hotel call and reserve; the stable owners are friendly but don't speak much English. Closed Mon. $32 per hour with wine and snack. Cash only.

The historic center has the city's densest concentration of tourist sights, but it's also surprisingly lived-in, with monumental and intimate squares, grand and humble palaces, and restaurants galore. SEE Piazza della Minerva In the often-ignored blind spot behind the Pantheon, an uppity elephant, believed to have been sculpted by Bernini, carries an Egyptian obelisk on its back. On the facade of Santa Maria sopra Minerva church, marble plaques record the water levels of Tiber floods from the 15th to 19th centuries. SEE Via dei Cestari and Via di Santa Chiara The liturgical outfitters on these narrow streets just south of the Pantheon are what keep Vatican VIPs looking red-carpet ready. Ogle the elaborate window displays as long as you like; store owners say that even non-priests are welcome to browse or shop inside. John Paul II had his custom threads crafted at Gammarelli, while it's rumored that Benedict XVI entrusts the making of his vestments to Euroclero, on the other side of town, where he became a loyal customer as a cardinal. His flashy red shoes, however, are limited-edition Prada. EAT Obikà Piazza di Firenze 28 (at Via dei Prefetti), 011-39/06-683-2630, obika.it The name means "here it is!" in the Neapolitan dialect--"it" being buffalo mozzarella. In this slick café, mozzarella (don't call it cheese) in many forms--braids, blobs, balls--is paired with salami, prosciutto, and bottarga (dried fish roe). EAT Pizzeria La Montecarlo Vicolo Savelli 13, 011-39/06-686-1877, sevoinapizzadillo.net The liveliest, cheapest, and friendliest of the triumvirate of favorite local pizzerias west of Piazza Navona. The crowds out front look daunting, but stride confidently to the front of the line, and you'll be greeted and seated right away. (Cutting with confidence is an art form in Italy.) Angle for a table in one of the back rooms or outside. Closed Mon. Cash only. EAT Renato e Luisa Via dei Barbieri 25, 011-39/06-686-9660, renatoeluisa.it You could live around the corner for years and never think to eat here, but this is a real standout amid the casual trattorias just north of Largo Argentina. Consistently delicious Roman dishes, such as bucatini all'amatriciana (zesty tomato and pancetta pasta) and fiori di zucca (stuffed zucchini blossoms) are served in a rustic and homey atmosphere. Closed Mon. DRINK Bar del Fico Piazza del Fico 26--28, 011-39/06-686-5205 Down-to-earth and busy all day long, from the morning espresso shooters to the 2 a.m. vodka-and--Red Bull crowd. The indoor/outdoor "bar of the fig" (also translatable as "bar of cool") is a Roman social institution and highly recommended, especially if you happen to be at one of the tables under the gnarled fig tree when Lenny Kravitz stops by and buys a round. Cash only. DRINK Le Coppelle 52 Piazza delle Coppelle 52, 011-39/349-740-4620 In one of Rome's most refined and secluded little piazzas, this chic and comfy bar is perfect for an aperitivo (light cocktail or glass of wine, especially prosecco) before--or a digestivo (nightcap) after--a meal at one of the stylish restaurants on the square. Weather permitting, lounge furniture is set up on the car-free cobblestones outside. Closed Mon. from Nov. to March. DRINK Salotto 42 Piazza di Pietra 42, 011-39/06-678-5804, salotto42.it Co-owned by Swedish model and longtime resident of Rome Malin Persson this new "book bar" offering Swedish fare has been an aperitivo-hour hit with Nordic expats and cultured Romans since its 2004 opening. A few tables spill out onto the quiet, pedestrian piazza to face the ruins of the Temple of Hadrian. Closed Mon. SPLURGE Posto Italiano Via dei Giubbonari 37a, 011-39/06-686-9373 Shopping bags from flashier shoe boutiques in the Campo de' Fiori area carry more cachet, but if you want a well-priced and well-made pair of this-minute Italian shoes or boots (meaning they'll be in style in the U.S. in a year), make this your first stop. Expect to spend about $125 a pair. PLAY Supperclub Via de' Nari 14, 011-39/06-6880-7207, supperclub.com At this Euro-fabulous dining experience, which includes four courses of fusion fare, you recline on a white divan and are served by half-naked waiters. The cocktail lounge and dance club are less expensive ways to partake in the excess. Reserve well in advance for dinner. Location changes in summer. $69 prix fixe.   TIP If you're ever in Rome when it's pouring rain--or better yet, during one of the city's rare hailstorms--head straight to the Pantheon. The 30-foot-wide oculus (the round window at the top of the dome) is open to the sky, which means that the ancient temple becomes a gigantic indoor shower in rainy weather. This feature of the building gets especially dramatic on Pentecost Sunday in May or June, when firemen dump barrel after barrel of red rose petals through the oculus to flutter down over the Mass, celebrated 142 feet below.