Scouting Report 2008: Chapada dos Veadeiros

WILLUNGA, AUSTRALIA Dan Philips: Founder of the Grateful Palate, an Oxnard, Calif.–based company that sells specialty foods and kitchen accessories, imports wine, and even runs wineries in Spain and Australia (gratefulpalate.com). There are foodies—and then there's Dan Philips. Founder of the Grateful Palate, a food-related gift merchandiser that bills itself as "a lifestyle for your tongue," Philips runs a wine-importing business, as well as several wineries, and is opening a wine bar in Adelaide, Australia. In addition to splitting his time between Adelaide and Thousand Oaks, Calif., Philips travels four months of the year to hunt down new suppliers for his Bacon of the Month Club and other gourmet groups. One of Philips's favorite discoveries is the town of Willunga (pop. 5,064), an hour's drive south of Adelaide. "It's in the McLaren Vale region, the greatest area in the world for producing Shiraz and other red wines of just about any sort," says Philips. He always makes sure to stop by the Willunga Farmers Market for the fish and oysters from nearby Gulf St. Vincent, fresh milk and cream, wood-fired bread, and grass-fed beef. "It tastes different depending on how and where the cows were raised," he says. What really earns Philips's enthusiasm, however, is a local pizza parlor. "Russell's Pizza is like a monastery of pizza, food, and culinary pleasures," he says. "Russell Jeavons built the place himself—even the oven—and he grows a lot of the herbs, vegetables, and fruits served at the restaurant. He plops oysters and squid right on top of the pizza dough, slides it into the brick oven, and cooks it all together. Russell's is only open two nights a week, which makes it feel even more special." Information: Car rentals, oodles.com, from $36 a day; Willunga Farmers Market, Willunga Town Square, Saturday mornings; Russell's Pizza, 13 High St., 011-61/8-8556-2571, open for Friday and Saturday dinners only (reservations suggested), pizzas from $23. > See photos of the best places you've never heard of

The average rate for hotel room in downtown Chicago is about $190 a night. But with some persistence, it's possible to book a more affordable place that's central, comfy, and—sometimes—even stylish. Given that this lakeside metropolis is a hub for conventions and special events, we recommend you plan ahead. Generally speaking, you'll find the best rates if you book at least one month in advance. Some booking strategiesThe newest option for affordable lodging is Roomorama, a Web marketplace for short-term rentals in Chicago and a few other cities. Any resident can list a share, an apartment, or a house for rent, and a rating system reveals what past guests thought of each rental. Guests secure their reservation by sending a credit card or PayPal payment to Roomorama. When a guest arrives on the scheduled date, he or she evaluates the lodging and gives the host a code supplied by Roomorama. The host plugs this code into Roomorama's website, and the company transfers the guest's payment to the host's account. If you would rather book a standard hotel, the blind-booking websites Hotwire and Priceline have proven themselves to be promising sources for discounted rooms in Chicago (and elsewhere). These two sites won't name the hotel (or airline or car-rental company) you're working with until your credit card has been charged. For Priceline, try a lowball bid, using BiddingForTravel.com as a guide. For Hotwire, be aware that the deepest discounts are generally for hotels that it rates "four stars." You'll find the most eye-catching deals by clicking on the "Deals" tab on the site's homepage. Of course, you face some uncertainty about where you're going to stay if you opt for either short-term rentals or blind-booking sites. You may want to instead go for a sure thing. Consider Budget Travel's picks for affordable, independently owned lodging with some personality, with doubles starting at $99 a night. OHIO HOUSE MOTEL 'Hood River North, a high-foot-traffic neighborhood between Chicago Avenue and the Chicago River. Walkers enjoy an eclectic mix of upscale art galleries, trendy restaurants, and perennial crowd-pleasers such as the Hard Rock Cafe. First Impression A suburban roadside motel transplanted to the city. Many of the rooms at the two-story complex face the parking lot next to a kitschy "Ohio House Motel" sign. The Rooms While they're hardly luxury suites, the rooms offer all of the basics at a more-than-fair price. Expect clean, serviceable quarters that are surprisingly quiet, given the neighborhood's bustle. Plus Sophistication is a short walk away. You'll find art galleries, antiques stores, four-star restaurants, and stylish late-night bars. Minus If you're looking for cozy, boutique touches in your accommodations, this motel isn't for you. Free Wi-Fi? No. Wi-Fi is available for $10 per day. Credit Cards Accepted Visa, MC, AmEx, Discover, Diners Club. Details 600 N. LaSalle St., 312/943-6000, ohiohousemotel.com, doubles from $100. Hotel Type Motel. Relevant Lifestyle Family-friendly. Photos 1 of 2 HOTEL CASS 'Hood River North near downtown Chicago, north of the Loop and home to Michigan Avenue's Magnificent Mile, an upscale corridor featuring the showcase stores of national chains, including the world's largest Polo store. First Impression This is a Holiday Inn Express and a boutique hotel? Well, yes, that is the familiar corporate logo on the hotel's edifice, but in the lobby you'll find an attentive doorman, a working fireplace, and ultramodern furnishings—and the guest rooms feel similarly upgraded. Plus The hotel is a few city blocks from iconic Chicago buildings such as the John Hancock Center and the long-standing Water Tower, a notable survivor of the Great Chicago Fire of 1871. Minus Standard rooms are extremely small. Two reasonably sized adults toting luggage may find it a tight squeeze. Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in all rooms. Credit Cards Accepted Visa, MC, AmEx, Discover, Diners Club. Details 640 N. Wabash Ave., 800/799-4030 or 312/787-4030, hotelcass.com, doubles from $117. Hotel Type Hotel. Relevant Lifestyle Hip, family-friendly. Photos 1 of 3 HOTEL INDIGO 'Hood Gold Coast, a wealthy neighborhood of Chicago known for its quaint brownstone residences, the Division Street late-night bar gauntlet, and the so-called Viagra Triangle, an area frequented by older single men. Think high-end steakhouses, piano bars, and dance clubs. First Impression Where's my daiquiri? Situated on one of the Gold Coast's quieter, tree-lined streets, Hotel Indigo's expansive, coastal-themed lobby is like an oasis in the city. The Rooms Hardwood floors and deep-sea-blue decorative accents give the rooms a relaxing, beach-house vibe. Plus When you tire of reclining in the lobby, walk about two blocks west to Lake Michigan and its free beaches. You're also an easy walk from Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse, which draws hometown celebrities such as actor Vince Vaughn. Minus Parking is $36 a day; street parking is virtually nonexistent. Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in all rooms and public areas. Credit Cards Accepted Visa, MC, AmEx, Discover, Diners Club. Details 1244 N. Dearborn Pkwy., 800/972-2494 or 312/787-4980, hotelindigo.com, doubles from $159. Hotel Type Hotel. Relevant Lifestyle Family-friendly. Photos 1 of 3 HOTEL SAX 'Hood River North, half a block from the Chicago River and next to Marina City, a pair of iconic 60-story, corncob-shaped towers that are showpieces of 1960s avant-garde architecture. The area attracts locals with its upscale hangouts, including Bin 36 (a hip wine bar) and Keefer's (a swanky steak house). First Impression Fresh from its $30 million renovation, the former House of Blues Hotel is now all about modern chic. The lobby's check-in desks look like jewel cases, and the white marble floors and high-end furnishings complete the hotel's transformation. The adjacent Crimson Lounge is an enormous, ornately decorated cocktail bar. The Rooms High energy and high style: Damask wallpaper and a panoply of red, gold, and royal-purple fabrics on bedspreads and pillows, with occasional, unique flourishes such as faux-snakeskin wing chairs. Plus The little details, such as padded headboards and 320-count Egyptian cotton sheets. Minus Fido will cost you. Pets incur a nonrefundable $50 charge. Free Wi-Fi? Yes. There's also a simple, plug-in cable connection. Credit Cards Accepted Visa, MC, AmEx, Discover. Details 333 N. Dearborn St., 877/569-3742, hotelsaxchicago.com, doubles from $189. Hotel type Hotel. Relevant Lifestyle Hip. Photos 1 of 3 ESSEX INN 'Hood South Loop, close to the renowned Art Institute of Chicago and to Millennium Park, with its famous band shell designed by Frank Gehry. Here, skyscrapers preside over wide, landscaped boulevards. First Impression Urban posh at an affordable price. This 15-floor hotel has a sleek, metal-and-glass lobby and a swimming pool enclosed in a glass atrium—you can see Grant Park while treading water. The Rooms Standard fare for business hotels. Plus East-facing rooms have king-of-the-world views. Minus You may wonder, Is this really Chicago? So many conventions are held in the neighborhood that you're more likely to bump into an out-of-towner than a local. Free Wi-Fi? No. $6 a day. Credit Cards Accepted Visa, MC, AmEx, Discover. Details 800 S. Michigan Ave., 800/621-6909 or 312/939-2800, essexinn.com, doubles from $99. Hotel Type Hotel. Relevant Lifestyle Family-friendly. Photos 1 of 3 GOLD COAST GUEST HOUSE B&B 'Hood Southeast of Old Town, where the city's venerable walk-ups and town houses share elbow room with gritty, multiunit apartment buildings and gourmet grocery stores. The landmark Holy Name Cathedral is seven blocks away. First Impression Entering this brick Victorian town house is like walking into a good friend's well-kept apartment. The hardwood floors are immaculately clean, the breakfast room is stocked with organic cereals and juices, and the south side's floor-to-ceiling windows frame a lovely backyard garden. The Rooms Owner Sally Baker has decorated each room with a tasteful mixture of vintage furnishings and understated mementos, such as a World War II serviceman's framed letter and photo. The Victorian-era Queen Room on the north side has a beautiful pedestal sink and an extra-deep bathtub. Plus Eating the complimentary breakfast in the garden is a welcome respite from the pace of the city. Minus Children under 10 and pets are not allowed. Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in public spaces and all rooms. Credit Cards Accepted Visa, MC, AmEx, Discover. Details 113 W. Elm St., 312/337.0361, bbchicago.com, doubles from $129. Hotel Type Inn/B&B. Relevant Lifestyle Romantic. Photos 1 of 1 THE BELDEN-STRATFORD HOTEL 'Hood Lincoln Park, a few city blocks from Lake Michigan, known for its expansive, tree-lined boulevards. DePaul University and the Lincoln Park Zoo are highlights. First Impression It's no accident that the hotel is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. A red-coated doorman welcomes you to the elegant lobby decorated in a spectacular, art deco-inspired style. The hotel is modern where it counts: There's free Wi-Fi Internet, a small spa, and a French bistro, Mon Ami Gabi. The Rooms Relatively spacious compared with other Chicago hotel rooms in a similar class. The well-maintained guest rooms typically have vintage furniture and Oriental rugs. Plus Each apartment-like guest room has a kitchenette with a rudimentary fridge, a range, and a microwave. Many of the park-facing rooms offer astonishing views. The hotel provides a free continental breakfast and summer access to a rooftop sundeck, with views of Lincoln Park and Lake Michigan. Minus If you're looking for the hip crowd, go elsewhere. Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in all rooms and public spaces. Credit Cards Accepted Visa, MC, AmEx, Discover, Diners Club. Details 2300 Lincoln Park W., 773/281-2900, beldenstratford.com, doubles from $129. Hotel Type Hotel and extended stay. Relevant Lifestyle Family-friendly, romantic Photos 1 of 2 CITY SUITES HOTEL 'Hood Wrigleyville, six blocks south of Wrigley Field and its surrounding sports bars, reggae clubs, and restaurants. The neighborhood is a short cab ride from Chicago's famous theaters (including Briar Street Theatre, home of the Blue Man Group) and a block from Boystown, the city's widely recognized gay neighborhood. First Impression From the outside, the hotel looks unremarkable—even a little drab—but inside, you'll find surprisingly well-maintained rooms and a friendly, professional staff. The Belmont stop on the elevated train (the El) is roughly a block away; it's a brief 20- to 30-minute ride to most downtown attractions. The Rooms Clean and spare. For more, book one of the suites, which have generous sitting rooms adjacent to the bedrooms. Plus Boutique shops, tiny eateries, and the nearby Vic Theatre make for a lively neighborhood. Minus The hotel is sandwiched between buildings; you won't have a view. Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in all rooms and public spaces. Credit Cards Accepted Visa, MC, AmEx, Discover, Diners Club. Details 933 W. Belmont, 800/248-9108 or 773/404-3400, cityinns.com/citysuites/, doubles from $159. Hotel Type Hotel. Relevant Lifestyle Family-friendly, GLBT-friendly. Photos 1 of 2 THE MARGARITA EUROPEAN INN 'Hood Evanston, two blocks from the Davis stop on the El train's Purple Line and 30 to 45 minutes from downtown Chicago. This suburban hub—known for its dignified mansions and woodsy parks—is anchored by Northwestern University. First Impression Originally built in 1927 to provide "proper" housing for single businesswomen, this European-style hotel is remarkably well preserved. Entering the Grand Parlor from the lobby is like walking into the past; the room is outfitted with antique furniture, a working fireplace, and shelves lined with blue-and-white porcelain. The Rooms Charming. Floral-pattern bedspreads and curtains, period-style ceiling fans and light fixtures, and antique dark-wood furniture successfully strike an early-20th-century note. Plus It's a bargain, after you factor in the free continental breakfast and the rooftop deck, from which you can see downtown Evanston. Minus Some of the cheaper rooms share a communal bathroom. Be sure to ask about your room's facilities before you book. Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in common areas. Credit Cards Accepted Visa, MC, AmEx, Discover, Diners Club. Details 1566 Oak Ave., Evanston, IL, 847/869-2273, margaritainn.com, singles from $79. Hotel Type Hotel. Relevant Lifestyle Family-friendly. Photos 1 of 3 WICKER PARK INN 'Hood Wicker Park, where residents of the area's brownstones can be found chatting in sidewalk cafés, restaurants, and rock clubs. First Impression The brownstone that houses this B&B shares the urban loft aesthetics of its owners, Mikky and Laura Wright, who formerly ran the hip Alliance Bakery down the street. The Rooms Each of the eight rooms has a name to match its themed decor. The Cape Cod, for instance, has powder-blue walls, white furniture, and sailing-related artwork. Heads up: The El train runs behind the Blue Line Studio, and the Provence Room requires that you cross a public kitchen on the way to the bathroom. Finally, two of the units are larger, multibedroom apartments that are in a building across the street. Plus Close to the Damen-O'Hare Avenue and Division Street stops on the El's Blue Line; the downtown Loop's Theater District is less than 15 minutes away. Minus The cancellation policy. If you fail to give two weeks' notice, and you can't rebook, you'll pay the full rate you were quoted. Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in all rooms. Credit Cards Accepted Visa, MC, AmEx. Details 1329 N. Wicker Park Ave., 773/486-2743, wickerparkinn.com, doubles from $129. Hotel Type Inn/B&B. Relevant Lifestyle Hip, GLBT-friendly. Photos 1 of 2

1. Tell your coworkers not to call you unless there's a hostage situation. The more memorable your message, the more likely it is that you'll be left alone. 2. Get a cell phone that makes it difficult to send e-mail. And don't tote a business-connected BlackBerry. For domestic trips, Virgin Mobile sells prepaid phones for as little as $15 at Target stores and elsewhere. (Note: Virgin's phones come with mobile Web access. If that seems too tempting, you'll have to ask the company to turn it off when you call customer service to activate the phone.) 3. Give your hotel's name and number to only one colleague. If any other coworker needs to reach you, your point person can decide whether revealing your whereabouts is warranted. 4. Stay at hotels that are known for offering activities. For example, many Kimpton and Omni hotels host frequent wine tastings. Social mixers may especially appeal to solo travelers, who tend to find it hard to unplug from BlackBerry-based interaction. 5. Don't over-schedule. Or else your vacation will seem like work. As you plan your itinerary, allow free time for strolls and other spontaneous adventures. 6. Make an "unpacking" list before you go. In his book Work to Live, Joe Robinson suggests you jot down the stuff that has no business going with you: work worries, the boss, colleagues, career progress, laptops, pagers, cell phones.... 7. Only respond to four-alarm emergencies. This advice is especially worth following when your boss insists that you check your e-mail and voice mail periodically, says NFI Research CEO Chuck Martin.

You just ordered a new suit "At six foot four and 380 pounds, I got used to standing out while in Chongqing, China. People stared, some folks patted my stomach, and a few even walked into street poles while looking me over. One shopkeeper took it a step further. He ran out of his store and motioned for me to stand still, then hurried back inside. He emerged with a tape measure and proceeded to measure my height and girth, each time holding it up to the small crowd that had gathered. I knew enough of the culture not to take offense—I was being paid an honor." Clarence Holbrook, Loveland, Colo. Shaggy goes to China "My friend and I rented bikes and cycled out to the village of Baisha, outside of Lijiang, China. As we were exploring the town, a friendly woman invited us to her home. We walked to her house, where we enjoyed tea and peanuts. Then she pulled out a box of traditional dresses and cheerily motioned for me to try one on. After dressing us up, she paraded us around her courtyard, taking pictures with our cameras. We gradually realized that she expected a modest tip, which we were more than glad to give for such a bizarre experience." Rich Fowler, San Francisco, Calif. Cutting to the chase "While studying abroad in Beijing, I visited the Great Wall—but in a strange twist, I became the tourist attraction. The locals marveled at my long blond hair and asked me to pose for countless photos. One vendor approached me and commented on my 'golden' hair. I smiled and nodded. 'Golden hair,' she said. 'I buy.' I gave her a strange look and declined. She started offering me money. Not wanting to give up my hair, I kept refusing. She got agitated and walked away. I was heading back to the bus when she came chasing after me with a pair of scissors and yelling, 'Golden hair! Golden hair!' I ran faster than I had in a long time." Nicole Andersen, Santa Barbara, Calif. "Easy-egress" is more like it "Moms and grandmas on our Interhostel tour of China were intrigued with the easy-access pants worn by diaperless toddlers. It became our mission to photograph a youngster wearing them, but this proved difficult: As soon as parents would see us eyeing their little one, they'd whisk their child around, assuming we wanted to capture the baby's face. After one Beijing dad presented me with several front view photo ops, I waited until his attention was elsewhere, then snuck up from behind." Nancy Shephard, Stockton, Calif. Like your husband isn't an animal "My mother, my husband, and I noticed that most Chinese people dress formally in China. In fact, it wasn't uncommon to see Chinese tourists in suits and ties. When we got to Guilin, the weather was unseasonably warm, and my husband wore shorts. A Chinese girl soon wrapped herself around my husband's leg. She was fascinated with his hairy legs, petting his knee like he was an animal." Delia Rhodes, Jamestown, N.C. We'd rather eat the stick My husband and I try to fit in by eating the local delicacies. We ate ant eggs in Mexico, and llama and guinea pig in Peru, but while in Hong Kong we finally put a stop to the tradition. Walking toward the Temple Street night market, we found a store that sold sun-dried foods such as mushrooms and shark fins, but what really caught our eye was one local dish we'd never try—lizard on a stick. Macarena Scalia' South Miami, Fla.