Skirting the Issue

May 3, 2011

"Flight attendants often work vampire hours and have to sleep during the day. How do we keep the sunlight from leaking into our hotel rooms? We clip a skirt hanger (or two) to the middle of the drapes, sealing them together. This trick works equally well for parents trying to keep the light from waking up their children." —Elisabeth Joyce, San Clemente, Calif.

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7 Affordable Farmstays

An antebellum southern dairy NORTH CAROLINAThe Inn at Celebrity Dairy, an eight-room, Greek-Revival farmhouse an hour southwest of Raleigh, rewards early risers: At 6 a.m., the five dozen goats are milked, and soon after, guests dig into award-winning cheese and eggs from the inn's free-range chickens. celebritydairy.com, doubles from $90.   The full-fledged wine-country visit CALIFORNIAMilk a goat; ride horses; feed rabbits; gather eggs; help harvest cilantro, strawberries, and zucchini—all at the 23-acre Full House Farm in Sonoma County, minutes from wineries, redwoods, and the Pacific Ocean. fullhousefarm.com, cottage rental from $125.   A kid-friendly family retreat PENNSYLVANIAThe Weatherbury Farm, 45 minutes southwest of Pittsburgh, raises grass-fed cattle, but it specializes in children. Little ones help bottle-feed baby lambs, pump the old well, and feed chicks as part of the 100-acre ranch's Official Weatherbury Farm Kid program. Parents can pitch in, too, or relax in one of three newly renovated suites. weatherburyfarm.com, from $203 nightly for a family of four.   An Emerald Isle B&B IRELANDA 30-minute drive south of the city of Cork, the Lochinver Farmhouse is a four-room, classic Irish B&B with stone fireplaces, friendly and gracious hosts, and homemade brown bread, black pudding, and breakfast sausages. Its setting is what sets it apart: The wood-shingled two-story building sits on a 30-acre working dairy farm, surrounded by brilliant green hills that seem to roll into the serene River Bandon. lochinver.net, doubles from $97.   Relaxation in Tuscany ITALYTucked in a quiet pocket of Tuscany, Fattoria di Rignana was born as a nobleman's castle in the 11th century. The 297-acre property now produces wine and olive oil, but guests come more for a rural retreat than to get their hands dirty. The villa is newly renovated, with eight rooms and an infinity pool that overlooks olive groves. In warm months, a breakfast of fruit, cheeses, and breads is served outside in the courtyard. rignana.it, doubles from $118.   Cattle, sheep...and penguins? NEW ZEALANDSet on 1,000 acres at the southern tip of the South Island, Catlins Farmstay B&B is New Zealand at its most rugged. With 150 cows and 2,800 sheep on the farm, the three herding dogs earn their keep—and guests can, too (often by shearing some of those sheep). A 10-minute drive away, penguins gather on the craggy coastline and dolphins cavort just offshore. catlinsfarmstay.co.nz, doubles from $145.   Wilder than your average animal farm SOUTH AFRICABartholomeus Klip, a 6,000-acre ranch an hour north of Cape Town, is like a farmstay and safari in one. Between tending the farm's 4,000 sheep and relaxing in the four-room Victorian homestead, guests are likely to spot zebras, antelope, and wildebeest roaming nearby. Bartholomeus also owns a private nature reserve, visited by guests on twice-daily game drives. bartholomeusklip.com, lodging, all meals, and game drives from $239 per person.

5 Common Farmstay Questions—Answered!

Why would anybody in their right mind want to spend their vacation on a farm? In a word: the food. "Meals are often the best part of a farmstay experience-the ingredients are the absolute freshest you'll find anywhere," says Reid Bramblett, former Budget Travel editor and founder of trip-planning website reidsguides.com. Bramblett, who has stayed at dozens of farms throughout Europe and North America, says, "There are veggies and dairy produced right on the spot, rib-sticking dinners, and breakfast spreads that will blow you away." The opportunity to help gather those ingredients, get your hands dirty, and unplug is another big draw. "For families especially, a farmstay is like stepping back into idyllic, 1950s Beaver Cleaver time," says Scottie Jones, who owns Oregon's Leaping Lamb Farm (leapinglambfarm.com). "Moms and dads put away their handheld whatevers and pitch in with chores or play by the creek with their kids. Everybody relaxes and rejuvenates." Last year, with the help of a federal grant, Jones launched the website farmstayus.com. It now lists more than 700 farmstays across the country, which is roughly double the number it started with a year ago. In fact, the trend is booming around the world. Agritourism has been popular in Europe since at least the 1990s, and today there are more than 5,200 farmstays in France, and about 1,600 in Italy. In more recent years, North American farmers have started opening their doors to curious city folk as well. National statistics are hard to come by, but in 2008, more than 2.4 million tourists visited working farms and ranches in California alone. Will I end up sleeping in a hayloft? Maybe, but only if you want to. There are plenty of farms where you'll rough it, such as Switzerland's Schlaf im Stroh (German for "sleep in the straw"), where guests pay $23 each to sleep in barn stalls alongside cattle pens (abenteuer-stroh.ch). Then there are places like Tennessee's Blackberry Farm (blackberryfarm.com), a 4,200-acre spread in the Smoky Mountain foothills where guests shell out $1,095 per night for an all-inclusive stay in a private cottage (and, at that price, presumably the best blackberries on the planet). There's plenty in the mid-price range, too: Guests at Vermont's Inn at Mountain View sleep in one of 14 double rooms carved out of a redbrick New England farmstead (innmtnview.com, doubles from $175). High-end or cut-rate, farmstays are almost always rich in unique experiences. Where else but at New Zealand's Whiti Farm Park do you get to bed down in Native American-style teepees? And no worries, there are solar showers and toilets on-site (whitifarmpark.co.nz, from $22 per person). What if I'm allergic—to hard labor? Just because you're staying on a working farm doesn't mean you'll be expected to work as a hired hand would. Most farmstays let you participate as much, or little, as you want. Common chores include tending beehives, making cheese, harvesting grapes, herding sheep, milking cows, and collecting eggs from the chicken coop. There are also some tasks you won't be allowed to do. No farmer wants an amateur ruining his prize-winning cider or butter. Safety, too, is a factor. "I can't let visitors drive the tractor," Jones says. "Sorry, but that's a major liability issue." Speaking of safety: Will I need to get any shots? Not usually. The only possible cause for worry is an outbreak of something like hoof-and-mouth disease, but that's not very likely. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (cdc.gov/travel) keeps close tabs on farms around the world and offers travel advisories if any are needed. The agency hasn't issued any major warnings related to farmstays in several years. How much should I expect to spend overall? Many farmstays are all-inclusive, so you'll know the cost going in. And some are free. The nonprofit organization World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (wwoof.org) connects travelers with ranches, farms, and vineyards in 98 countries that allow guests to work for as long as they wish in exchange for free room and board. The U.S. branch (wwoofusa.org) has more than 1,700 participating farms and 10,000 members. If you're still worried about surviving the dirt part of a dirt-cheap getaway, pick up Brian Bender's Farming Around the Country: An Organic Odyssey (farmingaroundthecountry.info), which chronicles the author's year WWOOFing at 12 farms across the U.S.