Sydney: Kings Cross & Potts Point

Former working-class enclaves reborn as a yuppie and gay paradise. Paddington's Oxford Street is the shopping mecca; Darlinghurst's Victoria Street is the center of Sydney's café culture. SEE Paddington MarketsGrounds of the Uniting Church, 395 Oxford St., Paddington, 011-61-2/9331-2923, paddingtonmarkets.com.au Sydney's oldest community market, founded in 1973. Browse at more than 250 stalls laden with jewelry, crafts, and an occasional tarot-card reader. Many of Australia's biggest fashion labels got their start here, including Third Millennium, Lisa Ho, Bracewell, and Paablo Nevada. Open Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. EAT Bills Café433 Liverpool St., Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9360-9631Casual, cheery spot famous for Bill Granger's heavenly breakfasts of scrambled eggs and ricotta hotcakes with honeycomb butter. Patrons sit at communal tables and flip through dailies and stacks of magazines. EAT Bistro Lulu 257 Oxford St., Paddington, 011-61-2/9380-6888, bistrolulu.com.auLively and romantic spot for beautifully cooked French dishes. Don't miss the chicken-liver parfait and poached pork fillets. Dinner daily, lunch weekdays. Licensed for wine except Sun. and Mon., when you can bring your own ($10 corkage fee). EAT Fish Face132 Darlinghurst Rd., Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9332-4803Sydney's best fish, all line-caught (no nets) and simply prepared. Arrive early to score one of only six tables. Reservations are accepted for seatings between 6:30 p.m.-7 p.m. After that, it's a free-for-all. B.Y.O. beer only. EAT Tropicana Caffe227 Victoria St., Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9360-9809Huge salads, filling pastas, and first-rate coffee. Best known as the birthplace of Tropfest, one of the world's largest short-film festivals (tropfest.com): Judges whittle down 600 entries to 16 finalists, and on one Sunday each February the chosen films are screened outdoors for free (check website for schedule). SPLURGE Buon Ricordo108 Boundary St., Paddington, 011-61-2/9360-6729Top chefs from across the city make a beeline to this 18-year-old Sydney institution for a taste. Chef Armando Percuoco's signature dish is fettuccine al tartufovo, or truffled egg pasta. It's prepared at the table, with nothing but cream, Parmesan, pepper, eggs, and truffles. Spectacular service and an extensive wine list don't hurt either. Closed Sun. and Mon. DRINK Middle Bar383-387 Bourke St., Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9331-3100, kinselas.com.auThe slick, first-floor bar overlooking perennially busy Taylor Square used to be a funeral parlor. DJs spinning wicked tunes attract a mixed straight and gay crowd. DRINK The Victoria Room235 Victoria St. Level 1, Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9357-4488The decor is bo-co (bohemian-colonial, with brocade sofas, velvet chaise lounges, lazy ceiling fans, and flourishing palm trees) and the crowd a little pretentious. The innovative cocktails-the ginger and lemongrass martini, for one-steal the show. Afternoon tea served Sat., 4 p.m.-6 p.m., and Sun., 2 p.m.-4 p.m. From $20. SHOP Sass & Bide4/132 Oxford St., Paddington, 011-61-2/9360-3900, sassandbide.comThe flagship store of this well-known Australian label has all the deconstructed couture women crave, from tiny ra-ra skirts to ruffled mock-Edwardian fancies. SHOP Tsubi16 Glenmore Rd., Paddington, 011-61-2/9361-6291The menswear answer to Sass & Bide: distinctive clothing that's part surfer, part rocker, part dandy. PLAY Centennial ParklandsCorner of Oxford and Lang rds., Paddington, cp.nsw.gov.auThe 480 acres are filled with joggers, cyclists, skaters, picnickers, and horseback riders every day of the week. In the summer months, the outdoor Moonlight Cinema screens classics and the latest releases (moonlight.com.au, tickets $11).

Up-and-coming neighborhoods crammed with art galleries, restaurants, and boutiques stocking designer homewares and fashions. Night owls flock to Oxford Street for the city's hottest bars. SEE Belvoir St. Theatre Surry Hills, 011-61-2/9699-3444, belvoir.com.auThe center of Sydney's theater scene. Founded in 1984 and now owned by high-profile investors, including Mel Gibson, Peter Carey, Sam Neill, and opera diva Dame Joan Sutherland. Performances are relocated to the nearby Seymour Centre (at the corner of City Rd. and Cleveland St., Chippendale) until renovations are completed in Aug. 2006. Tickets from $22. EAT Billy Kwong355 Crown St., Shop 3, Surry Hills, 011-61-2/9332-3300One of the most coveted tables in town. Never mind that it's tiny and dimly lit, and that you'll perch on a plastic stool rather than a proper chair. Celebrity chef Kylie Kwong's funky Cantonese fare-crispy duck in blood-plum sauce-packs folks in nightly. Be prepared to wait: There are no reservations accepted. B.Y.O. wine only, $7 corkage fee per bottle. EAT Cleveland StreetBetween South Dowling St. and Crown St.Sydney's cheapest and most authentic array of Indian restaurants. For the best curries, kebabs, and thalis (selection of little dishes), head to Holy Cow (No. 456, 011-61-2/9698-9220), Mehrey da Dhaba (No. 466, 011-61-2/9319-6260), and Maya Masala (No. 470, 011-61-2/9699-8663). EAT Tabou527 Crown St., Surry Hills, 011-61-2/9319-5682Traditional bistro fare-steak frites, Gruyère soufflés-and a terrific wine list. White tablecloths, Gallic prints, and vintage posters on the walls. Daily specials are written on gilded mirrors. Dinner only Sat. and Sun, B.Y.O. wine only, Sun.-Thurs., $7.50 corkage fee. EAT Longrain85 Commonwealth St., Surry Hills, 011-61-2/9280-2888, longrain.com.auExcellent Thai fusion served at long, communal tables in another stylishly converted warehouse. If you can't get a seat, at least stop by the bar for one of its famous "stick drinks" (lethal concoctions of liquor and fruit mashed with a huge pestle). Lunch served weekdays, dinner Mon.-Sat. Closed Sun. DRINK White Horse381-385 Crown St., Surry Hills, 011-61-2/8333-9900The dingy old White Horse Hotel was overhauled and has recently reopened as a chic, two-level designer bar and brasserie. Bright Young Things like to be seen lounging on the roof terraces or chilling by the fireplace. SHOP Fratelli Fresh7 Danks St., Waterloo, 011-61-2/9699-3174Local chefs shop for gorgeous fruits and veggies at this grocer-wholesaler before 10 a.m. Then, the public descends on the converted warehouse to snap up what's left of the fresh produce, as well as olive oils, roasted peppers, pastas, cheeses, and other Italian delicacies. A café, Sopra, recently opened upstairs. SHOP Orson and Blake 483 Riley St., Surry Hills, 011-61-2/8399-2525, orsonandblake.com.auThe stylish set heads to O&B for hot housewares, brunch in the café, or cutting-edge fashion in the basement. SHOP 2 Danks Street1-2 Danks St., Waterloo, 2danksstreet.com.auA collection of 10 contemporary art galleries under one roof, showcasing the work of rising Australian and international stars. Photography is particularly strong-Narelle Autio's glorious underwater images are highly collectible and Sarah Smuts Kennedy's ghostly works sell for around $3,000 each. PLAY Oxford Street Sydney's premier party strip bustles with action, most of it gay. For a taste of the local nightlife, visitors of any orientation can check out the Colombian (corner of Crown and Oxford sts., 011-61-2/9360-2152) and Gilligan's, a cocktail bar on the first floor of the Oxford Hotel (No. 134, 011-61-2/9331-3467). ESCAPE Blue MountainsOut to the west, the Blue Mountains are a spectacular backdrop to the city (1300-653-408 from within Australia only, bluemts.com.au, free). You can visit on a day trip; the Blue Mountains Line train from Central Station takes two hours to reach Katoomba (cityrail.nsw.gov.au, $17 round trip). From there, hop-on, hop-off bus tours will take you to the breathtaking Three Sisters lookout, the picturesque town of Leura (eat at Solitary, above the Leura Falls; solitary.com.au), and more than 27 area attractions (fantastic-aussie-tours. com.au, $22, or trolleytours.com.au, $9). Make sure you "rug up"-that's Australian for dress in layers-as the mountains are famous for their chilly climate.

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Plus: How to do Oslo on a Budget, and Ireland & Northern Ireland, Air, Tours, 12 Nights, From $2,699. October 6, 2014.10 Most EMBARRASSING Travel Questions! Plus: 8 Tested Tips For Visiting Barcelona, and 5-Star Cancun Resorts Under $99 a Night. October 4, 2014.Video Inspiration: See FIVE Best Places You've Never Heard Of! October 3, 2014.Weekend Inspiration: 40 Incredible Photos of Iceland October 2, 2014.9 Reasons Why Paris Is ALWAYS a Good Idea! Plus: The World's Top Honeymoon Destinations, and Orlando, 4 Nights, Universal Tickets, From $479. September 30, 2014.33 Most Beautiful Places In America! September 29, 2014.26 Vacations of a Lifetime! Plus: 10 Stupidest Things Americans Do Overseas, and Italy, Air, Rail, 6 Nights, From $1,329. September 27, 2014.Video Inspiration: Take a Tour of "Wild" Europe! September 26, 2014.Weekend Inspiration: 50 Cities Every American Should See September 25, 2014.20 Best Budget Vacations For Fall! Plus: 12 Awe-Inspiring American Castles, and Madrid & Barcelona, Air, 6 Nights, From $999. September 24, 2014.20 Places You Would Rather Be on a Wishful Wednesday September 22, 2014.10 telltale signs your hotel is a DISASTER! Plus: 50 incredible images of New Zealand and Australia, and flights to London from NYC, from $298 one way. September 20, 2014.Video Inspiration: SCOTLAND! September 19, 2014.Weekend Inspiration: 55 Incredibly Beautiful Photos of Fall Foliage September 18, 2014.12 beautiful beach town bargains for FALL! Plus: how much should you tip your hotel maid?, and Istanbul & Rome, air, tours, 6 nights, from $1,299. September 15, 2014.6 wild & beautiful places in Europe you MUST see! Plus: 7 easy tips for packing light, and Ireland, 6 nights, from $1,050. September 13, 2014.Video Inspiration: Take a Tour of California Wine Country! 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1. Rice can salvage wet electronics. After I fell into a stream in Cambodia, my digital camera wouldn't work. Someone suggested leaving the camera in a bag of rice overnight to draw out any condensation. Sure enough, the next morning it was dry and working perfectly. Roger Bailey, El Dorado Hills, Calif. 2. Books on tape are great for road trips. I always try to match our itinerary with the story line--My Ántonia for a drive across Nebraska or Tom Sawyer for a journey along the Mississippi River. Lisa Lowe Stauffer, Roswell, Ga. 3. Hang on to cancellation confirmations. If you make a hotel reservation online and then cancel online, print out and save the cancellation confirmation for at least two billing cycles past your trip. After our vacation, I found a "no-show" charge on my credit card for a room that I'd canceled well in advance. Without the cancellation confirmation, I had no way to contest the bill. Karen Griffith-Hedberg, Eugene, Ore. 4. Let your cell phone speak for you in an emergency. Paramedics now look for emergency contact information in victims' mobile phones. Store the word "ICE" (In Case of Emergency) in your address book, along with the name and number of the person you'd like emergency personnel to call on your behalf. (For more than one entry, use ICE1, ICE2, etc.) Tell your friends or family members that you've chosen them as your contacts and make sure they're aware of any medical conditions or allergies that could affect your treatment. Cindy Nguyen, Chicago, Ill. 5. Recycle those old cassette cases. My husband packs Q-tips in a plastic tape case. It's small and snaps shut, keeping the cotton swabs clean and dry. Nancy Bastian, Brewster, N.Y. You can find more tips in the February 2006 issue of Budget Travel magazine.