Sydney: Manly & North

These eastern beaches are connected by the scenic Cliff Walk. Sweeping ocean views make unforgettable dining experiences, while surfing, swimming, and finely tuned Aussie bodies have their own appeal. SEE Clifftop Walk from Bondi to CoogeeEnter from Notts Ave., at Bondi A five-mile trek connects the two crescent-shaped beaches, passing glitzy Tamarama, Bronte, and Clovelly beaches along the way. Million-dollar homes teeter above the sea, and fitness freaks pound the walk on weekends, despite the crowds. EAT Barzura 62 Carr St., 011-61-2/9665-5546, barzura.com.auThe promise of sun-filled lunches on the terrace of this busy diner attracts swimmers and family groups to the best eating spot in Coogee. Plunk yourself down and enjoy a burger with beet relish-even if you're in a swimsuit. EAT Sean's Panaroma270 Campbell Parade, 011-61-2/9365-4924Great for lazy weekend lunches and end-of-week (Wed.-Sat.) dinners among moneyed Bondi types and foodies. In the humble setting-12 tables, no-frills decor-chef Sean Moran turns out treats such as guinea fowl stuffed with chestnuts and white-chocolate-and-rosemary nougat. SPLURGE Icebergs Dining Room and Bar1 Notts Ave., 011-61-2/9365-9000, idrb.comA phenomenal dining experience at the southernmost point of Bondi Beach. Sweeping ocean vistas through floor-to-ceiling windows, and an equally impressive Mediterranean menu, with standouts like Livorno fish stew and salt-crusted rib-eye steak. About $115 per person for a three-course dinner with wine. EAT Beach Road Hotel71 Beach Rd., Bondi, 011-61-2/9130-7247A surfer hangout just blocks from the beach. Pool tables, big-screen TVs, and a sports betting agency keep everyone happy. EAT Ravesi's118 Campbell Parade, 011-61-2/9365-4422, ravesis.com.auThe glass walls of this trendy hotel bar provide a view of the showy promenade, creating an ideal spot to see and be seen. SHOP Tuchuzy90 Gould St., 011-61-2/9365-5371, tuchuzy.comPronounced "too choosy," the boutique stocks relaxed, beach-babe outfits, from flirty skirts to bikinis (Hallican Boodie's '70s-era versions). Visiting stars such as Claire Danes and Lara Flynn Boyle have shopped here; Vin Diesel dropped by its menswear store next door. PLAY Clovelly BeachTake a 339 bus from the city, on Castlereagh St. near Martin Place, or walk south from Bondi, about three miles A snorkeling and diving heaven. In the summer months (Dec.-Mar.) tropical currents meet temperate water, providing an atypical mix of diverse species of marine life. Look for giant blue groper, wobbegong sharks, angelfish, and whales. Deep 6 Diving organizes expeditions with dive gear, snorkels, and fins (351-355 Clovelly Rd., 011-61-2/9665-7427, deep6diving.com.au, $250 for one-day open water training and certification). PLAY Coogee's Rock PoolsThese swimming holes were carved out of sandstone, with a little human help. The women-only McIvers Baths is run by the Randwick-Coogee Ladies Swimming Club (15¢, free swimming lessons on Sat.); Wylie's Baths has lap lanes, $3. PLAY Let's Go Surfing 011-61-2/9365-1800, letsgosurfing.com.auRuns beginner classes at Bondi for groups of six or fewer. Learn surf safety and basic skills before being let loose. A two-hour lesson costs $49. Lost in Translation In "strine," Australia's colorful slang, words are shortened and phrases smushed together. For more, especially of the naughty sort, try koalanet.com.au/australian-slang.html.   Ankle biter small child   Barbie barbecue   Brekky breakfast   Cozzie bathing suit   Crack a mental lose one's temper   Docket bill, receipt   Furphy rumor   Give it a burl give it a try   Gobsmacked surprised, astounded   Owyagoin? how are you?   Oz Australia   Piker someone who doesn't fit in socially   Piss beer   Tucker food   Throw a wobbly go nuts

High life and low life coexist in this happening peninsula east of the city. Glam homes, bars, and restaurants brush up against Sydney's sleazy side. SEE Elizabeth Bay House7 Onslow Ave., 011-61-2/9356-3022, hht.net.au/museumsOnce described as "the finest house in the colony," this small museum-originally built between 1835 and 1839 as a home for colonial secretary Alexander Macleay-offers intriguing insights into the early days of English settlement in Sydney. Furnishings are from the period 1839-1845. Closed Mon. $5.30. EAT Fratelli Paradiso12-16 Challis Ave., 011-61-2/9357-1744A busy neighborhood trattoria that does the best fried calamari in town-simply battered, golden, and meltingly tender. The no-reservations policy translates to perpetual lines, but the quick turnover keeps waits under half an hour. EAT Simmone Logue21 Elizabeth Bay Rd., 011-61-2/9358-2600, simmonelogue.comOn the ground floor of a smart city apartment block, this is the place to be for "Sunday roast"-a traditional Australian meal of lamb, chicken, beef, or pork (or whatever the chef decides that day), served with crispy potatoes, peas, pumpkin, and carrots, and plenty of rich, thick gravy, as well as pudding and wine. B.Y.O. wine only, $10 corkage fee per bottle. EAT Spring Espresso Bar65 Macleay St., Shop 1, 011-61-2/9331-0190So cramped it's almost uncomfortable, but people flock here anyway for a weekend brunch of scrambled eggs and smoked salmon. The outside tables are less claustrophobic. EAT Otto6 Cowper Wharf Rd., 011-61-2/9368-7488, otto.net.auFine Italian dining by the waterfront, with wines and service to match. The city's elite come to dine in sun-drenched splendor on exquisite pastas and memorable desserts, such as shortbread with mascarpone, strawberries, and Ligurian honey. First-class people-watching, too. (Russell Crowe lives at the end of the wharf.) DRINK Barons5 Roslyn St., 011-61-2/9358-6131Seedy old Kings Cross may be gentrifing, but this bar hasn't changed a lick. Tacky decor, cheap drinks, open all night. DRINK Lotus22 Challis Ave., 011-61-2/9326-0488, merivale.com/lotusA small but perfectly formed bistro that's part of the burgeoning Hemmes family empire (CBD Hotel, Establishment, Slip Inn, et al.). Its tiny, shiny bar with snakeskin-padded walls serves fine cocktails, including a Rat Pack of martinis (like the Frank and the Dino). DRINK Water BarW Hotel, 6 Cowper Wharf Rd., 011-61-2/9331-9000, starwoodhotels.comConsistently voted Sydney's best watering hole. It has a unique old-meets-new ambience. The hotel is housed in a former dockside warehouse, with soaring wooden ceilings; glass elevators ferry guests to the rooms, and drinkers recline on sleek divans. SHOP Il Papiro87A Macleay St., 011-61-2/9361-6252, ilpapirofirenze.itThe antipodean outpost of an upscale Florentine stationer known for divine marbleized diaries and notepaper with signature feather designs. PLAY Andrew (Boy) Charlton Pool1C Mrs. Macquaries Rd., The Domain Sydney 2000, 011-61-2/9358-6686, abcpool.orgNamed after a swimming legend from the 1920s. Its location-above Woolloomooloo Bay-ensures it's constantly packed. Open 6 a.m.-8 p.m., Oct. 1-Apr. 30. $3.90. ESCAPE Royal National Park 011-61-2/9542-0648, nationalparks.nsw.gov.auThe world's second-oldest national park after Yellowstone. The terrain-crisscrossed by myriad trails-varies from bushland to rain forest, craggy coastlines to tranquil riverbanks. And it's easy to reach: Take a train to Cronulla (cityrail.nsw. gov.au, about $6.60 round trip), then catch the National Parks Service's ferry to Bundeena (011-61-2/9523-2990, $7.30 round trip). $7.50 day pass for car, free otherwise. TIP: Aboriginal Art One of the world's oldest peoples, Aborigines arrived in Australia nearly 50,000 years ago from southeast Asia and fanned out, developing more than 250 regional languages as well as rich, spiritually infused artistic traditions. Today, Sydney's indigenous population numbers over 30,000, and many continue their time-honored crafts. Perennial souvenir favorites include the boomerang-originally used for hunting and fire-making-and the didgeridoo, a wind instrument created from a log hollowed out by termites. Carved and painted emu eggs, bark paintings and dot paintings of animals and plants, woven baskets, and sculptures of creator-beings are also popular. Be aware that opportunistic dealers in fake and illegally appropriated art run rampant. Stick to community arts-and-crafts centers and to galleries owned, operated, or supported by Aborigines, and do some research before you buy (mq.edu.au/house_of_aboriginality).

Former working-class enclaves reborn as a yuppie and gay paradise. Paddington's Oxford Street is the shopping mecca; Darlinghurst's Victoria Street is the center of Sydney's café culture. SEE Paddington MarketsGrounds of the Uniting Church, 395 Oxford St., Paddington, 011-61-2/9331-2923, paddingtonmarkets.com.au Sydney's oldest community market, founded in 1973. Browse at more than 250 stalls laden with jewelry, crafts, and an occasional tarot-card reader. Many of Australia's biggest fashion labels got their start here, including Third Millennium, Lisa Ho, Bracewell, and Paablo Nevada. Open Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. EAT Bills Café433 Liverpool St., Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9360-9631Casual, cheery spot famous for Bill Granger's heavenly breakfasts of scrambled eggs and ricotta hotcakes with honeycomb butter. Patrons sit at communal tables and flip through dailies and stacks of magazines. EAT Bistro Lulu 257 Oxford St., Paddington, 011-61-2/9380-6888, bistrolulu.com.auLively and romantic spot for beautifully cooked French dishes. Don't miss the chicken-liver parfait and poached pork fillets. Dinner daily, lunch weekdays. Licensed for wine except Sun. and Mon., when you can bring your own ($10 corkage fee). EAT Fish Face132 Darlinghurst Rd., Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9332-4803Sydney's best fish, all line-caught (no nets) and simply prepared. Arrive early to score one of only six tables. Reservations are accepted for seatings between 6:30 p.m.-7 p.m. After that, it's a free-for-all. B.Y.O. beer only. EAT Tropicana Caffe227 Victoria St., Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9360-9809Huge salads, filling pastas, and first-rate coffee. Best known as the birthplace of Tropfest, one of the world's largest short-film festivals (tropfest.com): Judges whittle down 600 entries to 16 finalists, and on one Sunday each February the chosen films are screened outdoors for free (check website for schedule). SPLURGE Buon Ricordo108 Boundary St., Paddington, 011-61-2/9360-6729Top chefs from across the city make a beeline to this 18-year-old Sydney institution for a taste. Chef Armando Percuoco's signature dish is fettuccine al tartufovo, or truffled egg pasta. It's prepared at the table, with nothing but cream, Parmesan, pepper, eggs, and truffles. Spectacular service and an extensive wine list don't hurt either. Closed Sun. and Mon. DRINK Middle Bar383-387 Bourke St., Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9331-3100, kinselas.com.auThe slick, first-floor bar overlooking perennially busy Taylor Square used to be a funeral parlor. DJs spinning wicked tunes attract a mixed straight and gay crowd. DRINK The Victoria Room235 Victoria St. Level 1, Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9357-4488The decor is bo-co (bohemian-colonial, with brocade sofas, velvet chaise lounges, lazy ceiling fans, and flourishing palm trees) and the crowd a little pretentious. The innovative cocktails-the ginger and lemongrass martini, for one-steal the show. Afternoon tea served Sat., 4 p.m.-6 p.m., and Sun., 2 p.m.-4 p.m. From $20. SHOP Sass & Bide4/132 Oxford St., Paddington, 011-61-2/9360-3900, sassandbide.comThe flagship store of this well-known Australian label has all the deconstructed couture women crave, from tiny ra-ra skirts to ruffled mock-Edwardian fancies. SHOP Tsubi16 Glenmore Rd., Paddington, 011-61-2/9361-6291The menswear answer to Sass & Bide: distinctive clothing that's part surfer, part rocker, part dandy. PLAY Centennial ParklandsCorner of Oxford and Lang rds., Paddington, cp.nsw.gov.auThe 480 acres are filled with joggers, cyclists, skaters, picnickers, and horseback riders every day of the week. In the summer months, the outdoor Moonlight Cinema screens classics and the latest releases (moonlight.com.au, tickets $11).

Up-and-coming neighborhoods crammed with art galleries, restaurants, and boutiques stocking designer homewares and fashions. Night owls flock to Oxford Street for the city's hottest bars. SEE Belvoir St. Theatre Surry Hills, 011-61-2/9699-3444, belvoir.com.auThe center of Sydney's theater scene. Founded in 1984 and now owned by high-profile investors, including Mel Gibson, Peter Carey, Sam Neill, and opera diva Dame Joan Sutherland. Performances are relocated to the nearby Seymour Centre (at the corner of City Rd. and Cleveland St., Chippendale) until renovations are completed in Aug. 2006. Tickets from $22. EAT Billy Kwong355 Crown St., Shop 3, Surry Hills, 011-61-2/9332-3300One of the most coveted tables in town. Never mind that it's tiny and dimly lit, and that you'll perch on a plastic stool rather than a proper chair. Celebrity chef Kylie Kwong's funky Cantonese fare-crispy duck in blood-plum sauce-packs folks in nightly. Be prepared to wait: There are no reservations accepted. B.Y.O. wine only, $7 corkage fee per bottle. EAT Cleveland StreetBetween South Dowling St. and Crown St.Sydney's cheapest and most authentic array of Indian restaurants. For the best curries, kebabs, and thalis (selection of little dishes), head to Holy Cow (No. 456, 011-61-2/9698-9220), Mehrey da Dhaba (No. 466, 011-61-2/9319-6260), and Maya Masala (No. 470, 011-61-2/9699-8663). EAT Tabou527 Crown St., Surry Hills, 011-61-2/9319-5682Traditional bistro fare-steak frites, Gruyère soufflés-and a terrific wine list. White tablecloths, Gallic prints, and vintage posters on the walls. Daily specials are written on gilded mirrors. Dinner only Sat. and Sun, B.Y.O. wine only, Sun.-Thurs., $7.50 corkage fee. EAT Longrain85 Commonwealth St., Surry Hills, 011-61-2/9280-2888, longrain.com.auExcellent Thai fusion served at long, communal tables in another stylishly converted warehouse. If you can't get a seat, at least stop by the bar for one of its famous "stick drinks" (lethal concoctions of liquor and fruit mashed with a huge pestle). Lunch served weekdays, dinner Mon.-Sat. Closed Sun. DRINK White Horse381-385 Crown St., Surry Hills, 011-61-2/8333-9900The dingy old White Horse Hotel was overhauled and has recently reopened as a chic, two-level designer bar and brasserie. Bright Young Things like to be seen lounging on the roof terraces or chilling by the fireplace. SHOP Fratelli Fresh7 Danks St., Waterloo, 011-61-2/9699-3174Local chefs shop for gorgeous fruits and veggies at this grocer-wholesaler before 10 a.m. Then, the public descends on the converted warehouse to snap up what's left of the fresh produce, as well as olive oils, roasted peppers, pastas, cheeses, and other Italian delicacies. A café, Sopra, recently opened upstairs. SHOP Orson and Blake 483 Riley St., Surry Hills, 011-61-2/8399-2525, orsonandblake.com.auThe stylish set heads to O&B for hot housewares, brunch in the café, or cutting-edge fashion in the basement. SHOP 2 Danks Street1-2 Danks St., Waterloo, 2danksstreet.com.auA collection of 10 contemporary art galleries under one roof, showcasing the work of rising Australian and international stars. Photography is particularly strong-Narelle Autio's glorious underwater images are highly collectible and Sarah Smuts Kennedy's ghostly works sell for around $3,000 each. PLAY Oxford Street Sydney's premier party strip bustles with action, most of it gay. For a taste of the local nightlife, visitors of any orientation can check out the Colombian (corner of Crown and Oxford sts., 011-61-2/9360-2152) and Gilligan's, a cocktail bar on the first floor of the Oxford Hotel (No. 134, 011-61-2/9331-3467). ESCAPE Blue MountainsOut to the west, the Blue Mountains are a spectacular backdrop to the city (1300-653-408 from within Australia only, bluemts.com.au, free). You can visit on a day trip; the Blue Mountains Line train from Central Station takes two hours to reach Katoomba (cityrail.nsw.gov.au, $17 round trip). From there, hop-on, hop-off bus tours will take you to the breathtaking Three Sisters lookout, the picturesque town of Leura (eat at Solitary, above the Leura Falls; solitary.com.au), and more than 27 area attractions (fantastic-aussie-tours. com.au, $22, or trolleytours.com.au, $9). Make sure you "rug up"-that's Australian for dress in layers-as the mountains are famous for their chilly climate.