Travel For Gays and Lesbians

Africa's loveliest city is an intriguing contradiction -- radiant and fair on the surface, layered like an onion beneath; its setting celestial, but injustice still widespread. Cape Town was founded as a European enclave in the seventeenth century, when India-bound ships pulled off the overseas highways for the colonial equivalent of a pit stop, but today its African sun and gracious seaside lifestyle attract Euro hedonists, models, and playboys, even as just beyond the city center, South Africa kneels to violence, disease, and the lingering racism embedded in society. "She's beautiful, isn't she?" sighs a South African friend as we stand atop Cape Town's crowning glory, Table Mountain. "Like the back end of the Titanic." Like so many others, Deon may reluctantly move abroad to escape the implosion of the once-mighty currency, the rand. A half-mile below us hums one of the world's most spectacular cities, ranking with Hong Kong and Rio de Janeiro. City Bowl, its central area, snuggles against Table Mountain (which Mark Twain once called "a glorious pile"), now rising from the suburbs like a mythical beast turned to stone, the flanking sentinels of Devil's Peak and the Lion's Head spilling the streets gently into Table Bay. It's the rand -- weakened by economic instability and recently trading at R8 to the U.S. dollar -- that has made South Africa in general and Cape Town in particular one of the cheapest places on earth, a magnet for budget travel where one can live in European-style comfort for less than $20 a day. Sometimes it's like apartheid never ended -- though they comprise 76 percent of the population, most of the black people visitors see are serving foccacia or fluffing pillows. But that sobering sociology, combined with setting and attractions, make the "Mother City" endlessly stimulating. The Cape and its allures With some three million people, the capital of Western Cape province sprawls along the Atlantic seaboard at the bottom of the African continent. From the commercial high-rises under Table Mountain emanate the steep streets of Green Point, home of budget motels and the bustling V&A Waterfront development. Past that, around Signal Hill, promenade the Florida-style condos of Sea Point, and farther down the Cape, the glamorous cliffside homes above the bistro-and-beach coves of Camps Bay, where the "beautiful people" cavort. Head east, or deeper into the province, and you'll find antique Dutch colonial estates in posh suburbs like Constantia. In the eastern distance, past the dreary Cape Flats where most nonwhite citizens dwell, lie the mountains near Stellenbosch, where elephants once roamed but wineries and country inns now beckon. Distinguished Cape Dutch architecture and gardens abound, and a visit to Table Mountain is a must (cable car $9.50 round-trip, $5 one-way). But Cape Town's most compelling sights evoke the brutality of the generations-old apartheid regime, which finally ended in 1993. That's one reason why the city's top draw is actually a mall: the V&A Waterfront, an appealing (though Americanized) bayside hub for shopping, partying, and eating in all price categories. Here, you see, is where tourists also catch the ferry to Robben Island, the infamous prison where Nelson Mandela spent nearly 20 years on work detail as a political convict. Operated by the ruling party, the ANC, it's the most expensive attraction in town: $12.75 for three-and-a-half-hour visits to his cell, which leave hourly across from the vaults at Victoria Wharf daily from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. (419-1300, $6.25 for ages 4 to 13; book at least a day in advance). Unfortunately, although dolphin sightings are common during the ferry ride and tours are led by former prisoners, the commentary provided is something of a letdown. Actually, Mandela split his 28 years of incarceration between three jails. One of them, Pollsmoor, is still open, and -- get this -- doubles as one of the biggest budget dining secrets of Cape Town. The on-premises lunchroom, staffed only by supervised, nonviolent inmates, offers the rare opportunity to interact with a South African living on the firing lines of the social and racial war that still rages. Inmates crave interaction with interested outsiders, and as a bonus, prices are astoundingly low: sandwiches for $.30 to $.50, sirloin steak and potatoes for $2.15, and banana splits for $.60. The food is frankly unremarkable, but the chance for an up-close look at apartheid's legacy is priceless (Orpen Rd. near Tokai; call 700-1270 for entry instructions). Perhaps the most moving reminder of the former system's evil is District Six, a deceptively placid meadow that was the site of a thriving downtown tenderloin bulldozed in 1967 to force nonwhites to move out to the Cape Flats. A nearby church is now a heartbreaking memorial featuring a floor-wide map where former residents still leave touching reminiscences about their lost homes (25A Buitenkant St., 461-8745; free). It's a refreshing museum in a place still surprisingly rife with paeans to oppression (such as a memorial to British colonialist Cecil Rhodes and another to the Afrikaans language). Roaming farther afield Don't miss the Cape Flats, the impoverished sprawl beginning five miles from downtown, past the white-dominated slopes of Devil's Peak; in the Khayalitsha district alone, 1.3 million souls jam into a space designed for 350,000. Under no circumstances should travelers attempt going on their own, but (though one may debate the propriety of poverty-gawking as a holiday activity) the shantytowns are well worth a guided tour. They'll be the most haunting excursion of your trip -- perhaps of your life. As wide-eyed children stream barefoot from squatters' huts to stare at the novelty of you, even "budget travel" feels downright decadent. A three-hour excursion from One City Tours (387-5351; $15, or $23 with an African lunch) is the cheapest and one of the least exploitative; it's led by Gladstone, a man who actually lives in Khayalitsha. Some popular attractions aren't accessible by public transportation, so rent a car from the likes of Value Car Hire (696-5827), whose manual-transmission compacts go for just $6.25 daily, including 90 free miles. Extra miles generally cost 18: each, which can rack up, so you may want to arrange an unlimited-mileage car through Avis (800/331-1212) or Budget (800/527-0707) before you leave home for about $14 per day. Both have offices at the airport and on Strand Street, but both will limit your free miles if you wait until arriving to reserve. The most popular out-of-town excursion is Cape Point, where the Cape of Good Hope bucks and tapers into the sea like the vestigial tail of a dragon. The rental car's free miles will barely get you there and back, but even with the $2.50 entry fee, going this way still beats tour prices, which start at $25. On the dramatic drive (90 minutes each way), stop at the 3,200-bird Jackass penguin colony at Boulders Beach (786-2329; $1.25) past Simon's Town. The intrepid can head three hours southeast of town to desolate Cape Agulhas, the true dividing line between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Halfway there, stop along the ten-mile-long bay of Hermanus, where June through November you can enjoy what's probably Earth's best land-based whale-watching free of charge. On the way back, take one of the world's great driving routes: the heart-quickening Clarens Drive, which dances along the seaside cliffs between Rooiels and Gordon's Bay, the town whose beaches line the warmest waters. Fans of the grape will love the 40-odd elegant wineries around Stellenbosch and Paarl. Most vineyards encourage visitors, but not all are alike. Some of the cheaper estates are Hazendal (903-5112), where tastings are free; Simonsig (888-4900), where they are $1.25 with a take-home glass; and the Bottelary (882-2204) on Bottelary Road near Stellenbosch, a wine co-op where bottles start at $.88 each. For their hidden charges and highfalutin gift shops, big-ticket wineries such as Spier are best avoided, unless it's for the privilege of petting the rare cheetahs in the nonprofit sanctuary on its grounds (809-1188, www.cheetah.co.za; $4.45 adults, $1.90 children). Wrap up your week with a visit to a certain Evita Bezuidenhout. In the former railway station of the aptly named hamlet of Darling (an hour's drive north of town on the R27), cross-dressing satirist Pieter Dirk-Uys portrays his nationally beloved creation -- a politics-drenched analogue to Australia's Dame Edna Everage -- as you enjoy a traditional South African meal. A basic understanding of national history is essential, but if you tell Evita you're a neophyte, she'll tailor her performance to help you along ($6.25; from Cape Town, 022/492-2831, evita.co.za; ask for English performance schedule). As the '60s-kitsch dining hall fills with steaming bobotie meat pies ($4.45) and honey-soaked koeksisters pastry ($1) being served, Evita lampoons fundamentalist Afrikaaners, dishing up spicy racial commentary to indulgent laughter and sloshing wine. "We apologize for apartheid," she solemnly chirps. "Yes, we're very, very sorry . . . that it didn't work." Sleeps & souvenirs Since the end of international sanctions, the deluge of tourism has fed a burgeoning lodgings industry; steer clear of the big name-brand hotels and you're off to a good start. At the rock-bottom end are several dozen hostels (most charging just $6.50 to $8 year-round for a dorm bed), many of which have diversified to include simple private rooms for couples and families. One, Ashanti Lodge (11 Hof St., 423-8721, ashanti.co.za), is a manse that boasts a golden veranda, lots of burnished wood, and a cheap cafe. Poolside doubles cost $19 to $23.50, or $29.25 with private bathroom (called an "en suite" here in South Africa). A less frenetic option, the loopy St. John's Waterfront Lodge in Green Point (6 Braemar Rd., 439-1404), near the pastel-splashed gay district of De Waterkant, is a melding of two houses, so it has two of everything (including pools) and 12 doubles for $22 to $25.50. Around Signal Hill in beachy Sea Point, an unrelated St. John's Lodge (9 St. John's Rd., 439-9028, stjohnslodge@mweb.co.za) stands next to the local ANC office. It's very basic-bed, table, wardrobe, and equipped kitchen -- but even more inexpensive: Prices start at $14.60 for a single without bath and peak at $22.25 for a double with bath. Cozier are the B&Bs, usually clustered in quiet residential areas away from public transportation and charging $22 to $27 per person during the April-to-September low season, when weather can bluster, and as much as twice that in the country's summer. The sleek Bayview (10 De Hoop Ave., Tamboerskloof, 424-2033, bayviewb@iafrica.com), with stylish art and wonderful skylight views of the mountains, charges a negotiable $31 in high season, $20 in low (up to $33/$25 for the spacious master bedroom). Every room has a patio, and you can raid the fridge whenever you want. Bluegum Hill Guest House (Merriman Rd., Green Point, 439-8764, bluegumhill.co.za), clinging to Signal Hill, flaunts a stunning 180-degree view of Table Bay from its backyard; rates run $23 to $32 in season (September through April), including a sumptuous breakfast served outdoors. Reasonably priced hotels exist mostly downtown, where some travelers don't feel comfortable after business hours. Two I can recommend: the atmospheric 33-room Metropole Hotel, an antique with a still-running 1894 cage elevator (38 Long St., 423-6363, standard doubles $16-$25), and the unadorned, midsize Tudor Hotel on Greenmarket Square (424-1335, $25-$38 with breakfast). By the way, every day except Sunday, Greenmarket Square is also the site of a tourist-oriented bazaar (most of the trinkets are really Nigerian or Kenyan); bartering is crucial. For local crafts -- more of a rarity -- try Masizakhe (419-2716) at the V&A Waterfront shopping mall. Its wares typify the resourcefulness required of Cape Flats living: Old oil cans are twisted into $3.50 baskets and $7 dolls are fashioned from discarded clothes. Quite Cape-able cuisine Most menus mimic trendy cafe fare (white Cape Town is more culturally European than African, after all), but the Western Cape's Mediterranean bounty is ambrosial: complex wines, luscious olives, and capers as plump as New England scallops. The good news is that wherever you go, a fancy meal will probably cost $5 to $8 per person including wine, and a glass of beer will be $.65. For authentic local fare, such as it is, try the Portuguese-run Dias Tavern downtown, which brims with soccer fans on Friday afternoons (27 Caledon St., 465-7547). For $5, two can feast on its espetada, rump steak on a vertical skewer topped with a gob of dripping garlic butter. Zorina's (172 Loop St., closed Fridays), at the edge of the sprightly Bo-Kaap district (with South Africa's largest Muslim population, known as "Cape Malay"), serves up zesty ethnic cooking: salomi pancakes filled with mutton curry ($.15), strings of fried pastry called slangetjies ($.40), plus traditional South African sausage rolls called boerewors ($.95). Unless you're a vegetarian (tragically condemned to forage in this meat-mad nation), don't depart without trying biltong, teeth-blunting hunks of cured game that locals gnaw with a frequency we accord to potato chips. You can get it everywhere, but it's best and cheapest at Morris's (265 Long St., 423-1766) in City Bowl, where cucumber-size slabs of choices from ostrich to kudu (a type of antelope) will cost you $1.50. Getting around, staying safe By day, skip the slowpoke buses and patronize the minibus taxis (a.k.a. kombis) that ply Main Road from Camps Bay through Sea Point and Green Point to the Waterfront and into City Bowl - all for $.25 to $.45 a ride. Hail one and enjoy the harrowing thrill of a Manhattan cab ride. Some white Capetonians will tell you to avoid what they denigrate as "black taxis" - and if you're hitching to the Cape Flats slums, where turf wars are common, heed their advice. But otherwise, I've used minibuses hundreds of times without incident. For destinations not near the minibus routes, phone Rikki's (423-4888), which will load you into its teeny pickups (bakkies) and take you anywhere in town, including the Table Mountain cableway station, for $1.25 to $1.90. Taxis flag at $.25 and cost $.90 per kilometer ($.56 per mile, a bargain); reliable companies include Sea Point Taxis (434-4444) and Marine Taxis (434-0434). Use them at night when the streets become less safe. Which brings us to crime. It's true that theft occurs here more often than in many American cities. Counter it by taking the same precautions you'd take in any new city. By keeping my appearance neutral, my wallet light, and not wandering around on foot at night, I spent six months here without even a hint of trouble. The bombings splashed all over the media are overplayed; usually targeted at gay bars and police, in the last three years they've led to three deaths -- no different than tourist-thronged London. Simple street smarts should see you through quite nicely; don't let scare stories cheat you out of the eye-opening, mind-expanding experience that is Cape Town. A Cape Crusade South African Airways (800/722-9675, flysaa.com) and Delta (800/221-1212, delta.com) fly direct to Cape Town from Atlanta (15 hours); SAA returns via Fort Lauderdale. Specialty travel vendors such as Magical Holidays (800/228-2208) and 2Afrika (877/200-5610, 2afrika.com) can often cut you a deal for $1,000 or so round-trip, usually via Europe. You may pare costs slightly by flying into Johannesburg (served by more airlines, and by SAA from New York) and taking a two-hour connecting flight (about $150 round-trip). 2Afrika also offers air/hotel packages that in the October/November shoulder season, for example, can mean $995 plus taxes for extendable round-trip airfare and five nights' hotel in town. To book B&Bs in the Western Cape area try the Portfolio Collection (http://www.portfoliocollection.com/), which lists nearly 300. For more information, call 212/730-2929 or visit gocapetown.co.za. When dialing Cape Town, use the prefix 011-27-21.

Nothing in travel is more outrageous than the $400 to $500 a day that many prominent bicycle tour operators charge for a trip on wire-and-spoke wheels through the rolling countryside of Europe. Imagine! You are utilizing yourself-your own legs, your own feet, your own stamina-as the means of locomotion, and yet you are paying five or six times the price of an escorted motor coach tour of the same area. I have to confess, my husband and I contributed to the success of the High-Priced Harrys. The first three times we took bicycling vacations in France, we enjoyed ourselves on organized tours. But as prices rose, so did our expertise. We thought we could do it by ourselves for a fraction of the cost. We did, and so can you. Per person, we now spend a maximum of $125 per day on our trips, and that includes everything. For a bit more, we could stay at the most luxurious places available, although as budget travelers we actually prefer smaller inns or farm stays. But when you compare $125 to the $400-$500 tab per day per person for a luxury bike tour, you might prefer to do it our way. After four self-planned trips, we consider ourselves experts. And we've had a great time working out all the details. Here are eight steps to follow for budget biking on your own. 1. Begin by finding compatible companions Four to six people work well. The reason you travel with a small group is to provide one person a day in alternation who will drive the "sag wagon" (a rented car) that carries your group's luggage from place to place (or occasionally carries a member of your group who might be too tired to bike on a particular day). You'll find that four people is an ideal number for such a car - you and your luggage can fit in any medium-size auto equipped with a bike rack. Or if all of you prefer to bike every day, you can spend two or three days in one location doing cloverleaf routes, and then drive together to the next stop. 2. Pick a destination Start in a place where others have blazed a trail. For instance, when we decided on France, we read every bicycle tour brochure we could find to get ideas from their itineraries and hotel choices. In fact, you ought to compare the itineraries offered by several bike tour companies. In some cases, we chose the same inns/chateaux as the tour groups. I recall with delight the time a bunch of envious cyclists on a luxury tour asked us how we managed to be in the same places they were at a fraction of their cost. We've come a long way since our first attempt. On a recent trip, we biked without a tour to emulate because we couldn't find one for the region we were interested in, and we did just fine. Although we have the most experience in France, we've also planned great trips to the San Juan Islands (off the coast of Washington State), Vermont, and Denmark. (For your information, Denmark is flat. The San Juans and Vermont aren't.) 3. Decide on the length of your trip and the approximate number of miles you want to ride each day Then buy a detailed map of the area. Michelin maps are excellent, and the smallest roads are well marked and virtually car-free. However, even Michelin maps can let you down, like the time we took a road down a huge hill to a river we had to cross. There was a road on the other side of the river, but alas, no bridge. So we had to pedal back up and find a different way. (That, admittedly, would not have happened on a name-brand tour because someone carefully checks out the routes.) Then there was the time the road we chose was exceedingly deforme, as the French put it. We endured about ten kilometers (61/2 miles) of near-misery, and our bottoms had a difficult recovery period. 4. Make a tentative list of towns where you might stay Be flexible because you may not find good places to stay in your preferred choices. 5. Buy a hotel, inn, or bed-and-breakfast guide We sometimes use Karen Brown's guides to exquisite country inns, and have stayed at several of her recommendations in France, England, Ireland, Italy, and California. (To save money, we have also used the appropriate Frommer's guide, which recommends not simply upscale inns but also standard hotels and budget properties.) The Internet is another increasingly useful source, and it is easy to e-mail for reservations. Be sure to make reservations in advance. You don't want to have to go from town to town on your bicycle looking for a place to stay. 6. Decide how much time to spend per town Staying more than one night in the same place once or twice is a good idea. It's easy to cover quite different sights from one location, and you will appreciate having a morning or two without packing, not to mention having enough time for your hand-washed laundry to dry. 7. Decide whether or not you want a car The answer should probably be yes. One time a car was helpful was when one of us had a bad fall. Another advantage is that you don't have to bike to dinner, which can be an inconvenience if you are staying in an isolated area. Of course, a car makes it possible for you to take plenty of clothing rather than be limited by handlebar panniers. On the other hand, we've done fine on trips carrying our belongings in panniers with no car. It's amazing how little you need to bring if you don't mind dressing in the same clothes every other day. 8. Decide whether or not to take your bicycle We have taken our own, and we have rented bikes. We find renting convenient because, although the quality of the bicycles can vary, there are times when having your bike with you is a big pain. Others wouldn't dream of renting a bike. It depends on how comfortable you are with preparing your bicycle for boxing (to be checked onto airplanes) and putting it back together upon arrival at your first destination. And you are probably going to have to store your carrier (or box) at the airport. (If you do bring your bike, bring an air pump. Foreign air pumps may not fit your tires. We learned that the hard way.) In France, we have been pleased renting bikes from Bourgogne Randonnees (terroirs-b.com/br/index.htm). Located in Beaune in Burgundy, it will deliver bikes and pick them up wherever you may be in France (and in some other parts of Europe) from 13.72 euros ($12.50) a day to 152.45 euros ($138.89) monthly, plus a reasonable pick-up and delivery charge. Also try discoverfrance.net/France/Paris/Paris_intro.shtml, which lists ten bicycle rental sources in Paris with phone numbers. Prices range from 12.96 to 22.87 euros ($11.80-$20.83) a day. Finally, in Tuscany, try tuscanytravel.com. If you follow these guidelines, you will find that the best part of your own trip is the tremendous satisfaction in finding each destination, despite a few wrong turns or extra hills. A lovely surprise or two might await you in the evening's accommodations. Nothing's more exhilarating than a made-on-the-premises cognac aperitif or the after-dinner coffee offered in an antiques-filled parlor. Even the occasional small disappointment can make all the rest so much better. And just think of all the ways you could spend the money you save.

Sometimes with difficulty, but almost always eventually, vegetarian travelers are able to compose and receive a vegetarian meal at restaurants that feature meat. But their best vacation meals are obviously at vegetarian restaurants--the kind that make a high art out of that approach to food. And the best type of assistance that a Web site like this can provide is information about where such restaurants can be found. Say you are cruising along California's Highway 99 in your rented Dodge Neon, heading to Sequoia National Park, but with a visit en route to Visalia to see an old friend. Soon the growling in your tummy is louder than the radio-it's well past lunchtime. You've been checking the roadside for chow choices, but it's a fast-food canyon of Sirloin Kings, Chicken Wings, Fried & Processed Things. No Veggie Village, Tofu Hut, or Broccoli Barn in sight. Since you became a vegetarian, it's been harder and harder to find fodder. Even though you're way outnumbered, your decision to forgo flesh in your diet puts you in the same club as Albert Einstein, Mr. Rogers, Janet Jackson, and many more. People who call themselves vegetarians fall into categories that range from lacto-ovos, who avoid meat and fish but consume dairy products and eggs, to vegans, who shun all foods involving animal participation, such as cheese, honey (stolen from bees), and gelatin-which comes from cow, fish, or pig bones, skin, and hoofs. There are fruitarian, macrobiotic, and raw-food devotees as well. Scrutinizing the "typical" American diet The typical American diet is under increased scrutiny. Our country is known for large portions and, increasingly, our girth. Whether you've opted out of the mainstream for health, spiritual, or monetary reasons, it takes planning to travel and vacation in Carnivoreland. You need a good map. Let's return to Highway 99. The meat eater, encircled by myriad fast-food joints, pulls into a Chicken A-Go-Go and, without leaving the car, orders a Mini Rooster Special: three pieces, breaded and fried, a thimble of cole slaw, a biscuit, and a soft drink. Cost in dollars: about seven. Nutritional cost: well over 1,000 calories, with at least 150 grams of fat. But since you packed for the road, you reach into your backpack for the reliable 32-page Guide to Fast Food, published by the Vegetarian Resource Group (send $6 to V.R.G., P.O. Box 1463, Baltimore, MD 21203; 410/366-8343, vrg.org/). This trusty booklet, packed with dietary minutiae, lists possible veggie options in the fast-food pantheons all over America. Did you know that vegetarian and vegan bean burritos are available at Taco Bell; that their beans do not contain animal fat; that Taco Bell's seasoned rice is no longer made with chicken broth; and that their tortilla wrappers are without dairy of any sort? Or that Jack in the Box, which you just passed on the freeway, has a great stuffed jalape o pepper with cheese? Were you aware that many Subway stores are now offering a meatless burger and vegan Fruizle smoothies? Those pithy pointers-and more-are set forth usefully in the Guide to Fast Food. For additional restaurant information totally free, you can go to www.vrg.org, click on Restaurants & Travel in the left-hand vertical box, and you'll be able to instantly access local vegetarian dining guides for Anaheim, California; Atlanta; Baltimore; Chicago; Denver; Los Angeles; Manhattan; Ohio; Orlando, Florida; and central Virginia. The more extensive, 434-page Vegetarian Journal's Guide to Natural Food Restaurants in the U.S. and Canada ($18, plus shipping) is also available from the Vegetarian Resource Group. You can also do well at the momma-and-poppa cafés. On our hypothetical itinerary, rather than slow down for a fast-food outlet, you continue into Fresno, California. In a minute you spot a small luncheonette on a side street. Because of the large, local Armenian population, this family-run place offers a lunch of homemade patlijan, a flavorful eggplant casserole, which you enjoy for the first time. Cost in dollars: about five. Nutritional cost: relatively low in fat and about 450 calories. In this instance, your curiosity has been an extension of the true travel ethic. With a short detour, you have been rewarded with a reasonably priced and flavorful meal, contributed to the local economy, and perhaps enjoyed an interesting conversation. Vegetarians save money There is anecdotal evidence that vegetarianism is growing. Restaurants, even those outside urban areas, have responded by taking salads more seriously and having at least one vegetarian entrée on their menus. At TGI Friday's, a nationwide chain, a rib dinner is about $13; shrimp dinner, $10; fish-and-chips, $8; burger, $6. But you can choose the grilled vegetable platter, including chunky and filling portobello mushrooms, for $8. While all this eating out is fun, every cheese sandwich you're served is priced to cover the cost of ingredients, labor, real estate, marketing, and salaries. To save money, think of your vacation as an expedition and pack a simple camping mess kit, a good slicing knife, a thermos, plastic bags you've saved, and a small cooler. Shop local stores for breakfast and lunch goodies such as yogurt, breads, fruits, and vegetables. If you're a coffee gourmet, bring your own pre-ground beans and immersion coil to protect yourself against the sin of watery java. With money saved on breakfast and lunch, you can treat yourself to a special dinner. If you're new to vegetarianism and would enjoy being with like-minded folks, explore vegetarian-friendly destinations. Talk to Donna Zeigfinger at Green Earth Travel (888/246-8343, vegtravel.com/) for assistance in finding retreats and resorts, both domestic and foreign. Prices range from surprisingly affordable to "a special experience." You can use the map on the Web site vegetarianusa.com for a geographic guide. Here's to healthy, low-cost eating! Veggie survival tips   Never hesitate to ask a waiter for items that may not appear on a restaurant's menu   Seek out ethnic dining, such as Asian, Indian, Mediterranean, and Middle Eastern, known for their vegetable and nonmeat dishes   Look for student cafeterias in college towns   Watch for buffets and salad bars   Consult websites like Chowbaby.com for additional restaurant nutritional information For biking enthusiasts, we recommend Bicycle Beano Cycling Holidays (and no, the name has nothing to do with the pills that fight gas. In the U.K., "Beano" is slang for "party" or "jolly"). While the firm claims that the majority of their clients are not vegetarians, participants are served a gourmet, vegan or vegetarian breakfasts and dinners, and dropped off at pubs (where vegetable-only options are readily available) for lunch. When not chowing down, clients cycle through some of the most beautiful areas of the United Kingdom, including the Upper Wye Valley in Wales and the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. Tours are for 15 to 30 persons, and accommodations range from Georgian manors to Victorian homes to classic country inns. Rates range between £70 and £100 (about $128 to $181) per day and include breakfast, tea and dinner, accommodations, route sheets and the services of a cycling guide and mechanic. Bikes can be rented from nearby rental companies for an additional £60 and up per week. While Beano will accept checks in American dollars for their trips, they ask that an additional £20 is added to defray the costs of money changing. You can see a list of all Beano's programs on the Web at bicycle-beano.co.uk/ or write to them at Bicycle Beano, Erwood, Builth Wells, Powys, LD2 3PQ, Wales, UK (phone 011-44-1982-560471, e-mail mail@bicycle-beano.com). Founded in 1989 by professional chef Nigel Walker, Vegi Ventures Holidays puts together approximately 15 group tours a year to the United Kingdom, Peru and Turkey, that vary in their focus but all emphasize delicious vegetarian (or vegan) meals. The Peruvian trip, for example, is led by a noted anthropologist, and features, along with the more standard sightseeing excursions to Machu Picchu and Cusco, homestays with indigenous families on Taqulie Island and lectures on local culture and folklore. The English Lake District tour is less a cultural tour, than one of physical fitness--mornings began with an optional "stretch, breathing and movement" class, and the rest of the day is spent trekking the surrounding hills and mountains (owner Walker serves as chef for this tour). During Christmas and other odd times during the year, Veggie Ventures sponsors "Creativity" weekends around England that emphasize "skill sharing" in subjects ranging from music to yoga to cooking to botany. Prices for the trips are reasonable, and though most of their clients are British, all nationalities are welcome. For more information, write to Vegi Ventures, Castle Cottage, Castle Square, Castle Acre, Norfolk, PE32 2AJ, United Kingdom (phone 011-44-1760-755888), e-mail them at holidays@vegiventures.com or check out its Web site, vegiventures.com/. Green Earth Travel was founded in 1991 by Donna Zeigfinger, a seasoned veteran in the travel business. Zeigfeinger specializes in setting up customized itineraries for vegetarians and vegans, to destinations all across the globe. She reports that while cruiselines and hotels have made great strides in accommodating vegetarians, most are still stumped by the vegan requirements. She goes through a lengthy process of telephone calls and faxes for every client to ensure that their dietary needs will be met (and if that turns out not to be possible, she will advise a client against a trip)--a thorough, helpful and thoroughly professional travel agent. Call or write, Green Earth Travel, 7 Froude Circle, Cabin John, MD 20818 (phone 888/246-8343). Also be sure to visit the company's Web site at vegtravel.com. The site offers extensive listings of vegetarian B&B's and other accommodations in North America, Europe, Central America and the Caribbean, as well as postings on numerous vegi tours. You can also send an e-mail inquiry to greenearthtravel@aol.com. A vegetarian summer camp Located on the shores of Lake Champlain near Burlington, Vermont (on the YWCA grounds of Camp Hochelaga), Camp Common Ground is a cooperative, family-camp rooted in its dedication to a strictly vegetarian and organic cuisine. Since its beginning in 1994, families have regularly convened on the lakefront each summer, fulfilling the vision of camp founders "Peg and Jim" (still on the staff) of a community-oriented, family-run summer camp. From kayaking, to dance, to creative cooking, all activities are infused with this cooperative spirit, including daily chores, which the campers also share. Meals are prepared by an "amazing" staff of vegetarian cooks, with years of experience and served family-style. Between 150 and 160 campers fill the summertime retreat during its three-week run in August. Adults and teens pay $495/week, and kids, between $70 and $435 (booking after March 20 will add $20). To encourage diversity (one of the camp's founding principles) Camp Common Ground offers scholarships to about 40% of its attending families. Bunkbeds in 12 "rustic-style" cabins and 10 platform-tents house most of the campers; the rest bring their own tents. Platform tents cost $40 a week, and private cabins run $120 extra a week. Beds in shared cabins are $15 per bed, per week. (If you want a solid sleeping structure, be sure to make reservations early.) None of these accommodations come with private baths, so there are three communal bathhouses (men's, women's, and coed). Priority is given to returning families (about 60%) and the rest of the slots are filled on a first-come, first-served basis. For more information or to make reservations, contact Camp Common Ground, 159 Lost Road, St. George, VT 05495, phone 800/430-COOP (2667), or e-mail info@cgcvt.org. View the Web site at cgcvt.org. Helpful websites for vegetarians In addition, we'd recommend a visit to these helpful websites for vegetarian travelers: vegdining.com, vegtravel.com, vegsource.com, vrg.org, vegeats.com, vegetarian.about.com, happycow.net. Vegetarian travel books Fortunately, a small but growing number of guidebooks to vegetarian travel have been published, and are available either at bookstores specializing in travel, or through the mail. The following seem to be the key, recent works (and thus most likely to be up-to-date):   Vegetarian Traveler: Where to Stay if You're Vegetarian, Vegan, Environmentally Sensitive, by Jed and Susan Civic, ISBN: 0943914795, sold for $15.95   Vegetarian Journal's Guide To Natural Foods Restaurants in the U.S. and Canada, by The Vegetarian Resource Group, ISBN: 0931411270, sold for $17.95   Guide to Vegetarian Restaurants in Israel, by Mark Weintraub, ISBN: 0931411165, sold for $9.95   The Canadian Vegetarian Dining Guide, by Lynne Tomlinson, ISBN: 096975390X, sold for $9.95   The Vegetarian Visitor 2005: Where to Stay and Eat in Britain, edited by Annemarie Weitzel, ISBN: 1897766912, sold for $5.95   The Vegetarian Traveler's Guide to North America, by C.M. Ohanian, ISBN: 1883138000, sold for $8.95   The Tofu Tollbooth, by Elizabeth Zipern, Linor Zipern and Dar Williams, ISBN: 188610106X, sold for $14.95   The Vegetarian Traveler: A Guide to Eating Green in Over 200 Countries, by Bryan Geon, ISBN: 1894020855, sold for $12.95   The Artichoke Trail: A Guide to Vegetarian Restaurants, Organic Food Stores and Farmers' Markets in the US, by James Bernard Frost, ISBN: 1556508786, sold for $16.95   Vegetarian Walt Disney World and Greater Orlando, by Susan Shumaker and Than Saffel, foreword by Paul McCartney. ISBN: 0762727039, sold for $13.95. All the books listed above can be obtained from one or both of the following sources. Either call the well-known travel bookstore Book Passages at 800/999-7909 or 415/927-0960 (you can also order via the Web site at bookpassage.com); or contact the North American Vegetarian Society by phoning 518/568-7970 or visiting navs-online.org/. Most of these books can also be ordered from Barnes & Noble or Amazon.com.

Now don't get me wrong: not all spring training camps come cheap. The New York Yankees' facility in Tampa boasts luxury suites, seats 10,000 fans, and is a mini-replica of the Yanks' Bronx home. The Atlanta Braves' state-of-the-art training field in Orlando is the centerpiece of a $100 million sports complex found smack in the middle of Disney World. At both, actual game tickets can run $17, and admission to a mere training session, where you can watch Chipper Jones stretch his quads, can cost $8 and more. But these aren't what you and I mean by "spring training." The 1.5 million baseball buffs who make the annual pilgrimage to Florida from mid-February until March 31 aren't looking for a chance to cozy up in sky booths or with Mickey Mouse. They're seeking out the spring parks of yesteryear - the intimate ones that boast tinny-sounding organs, dugouts that consist of single wooden benches, and (most important) megacheap ticket prices. The six parks below deliver the low-cost, high-nostalgia version of the great American pastime, and with a little preparation you might even catch your own favorite team as it visits one of these classic spring parks, of which about 20 are scattered throughout the state. (To get you started on designing your fantasy itinerary, just think: Griffey on Monday, McGwire on Tuesday, Jeter on Wednesday.) Training starts mid-February; actual games commence March 1 and run through early April. For exact dates of games involving specific teams, contact either the Tampa Convention and Visitors Association (800/36-TAMPA) or the Florida Sports Foundation (850/488-8347). Both can send you information on schedules, tickets, addresses, maps, and special March events. Tickets are usually easy to secure at the stadium on game days - unless Very Big Name Teams or Very Big Name Players are in town - but to be safe, call ahead. Dodgertown (Vero Beach) Los Angeles Dodgers. Ticket information: 561/569-6858. Ticket prices: reserved $12. Places to stay: Howard Johnson, 561/ 567-5171, rooms start at $61; Comfort Inn, 561/569-0900, rooms start at $89; splurge: Palm Court, 561/231-2800, rooms start at $145. If you're going to get to only one Grapefruit League game, you should do your best to make sure it's at Vero Beach's Dodgertown, where the Dodgers have been playing since 1948 - a year after Jackie Robinson made his debut at Ebbets Field. Generally considered the most famous spring park, Dodgertown consists of the 6,500-seat Holman Stadium, six practice fields, ten batting cages, four pitching tunnels, plus a nine-hole public golf course, restaurant, and lounge. But it's best-known for its player accessibility - all Dodgers live and practice on the Dodgertown grounds - making it feel like a college campus. Fans can chat with players and get their autographs as they walk the 100-yard path from the clubhouse to the stadium. Holman Stadium features open dugouts (so the players are always in full view) and was the first to create a berm, the raised grassy area beyond the outfield where fans can picnic and spread out blankets while watching the game. Jack Russell Memorial Stadium (Clearwater) Philadelphia Phillies. Ticket information: 727/442-8496. Ticket prices: box seats $12, lower reserved $11, upper reserved $9, reserved $6. Places to stay: Ramada Inn, 727/446-2688, rooms start at $119; Days Inn, 727/447-8444, rooms start at $115. Built in 1955, 6,900-seat Jack Russell Memorial Stadium is brimming with old-world charm. On the first-base-side stands, right below a giant marquee reading, "The Way Baseball Was Meant to Be," sits 80-year-old Wilbur Snapp, the organ master who has been pounding out ballpark tunes for almost two decades. Jack Russell Stadium is also one of the few stadiums whose concession stand has imported the team's local flavor (Philly cheese-steaks, of course) to satisfy homesick fans. One of the beautiful things about spring training is the casual attitude adopted by the ushers who seem more concerned about catching the game themselves than making sure you're in the right seat with the right ticket. When I recently arrived at the entrance to a sold-out Phillies-Yankee game without tickets, an usher asked an early departing fan to give me his ticket stub - so I got in for free. You might not be so lucky, but at the very least, remember that there's room to negotiate. For information on special events, like the annual "Meet the Phillies" day (including clubhouse tours, fireworks, and games for kids), call 727/441-8638. Joker Marchant Stadium, Tigertown (Lakeland) Detroit Tigers. Ticket information: 863/603-6278, 863/688-7911. Ticket prices: reserved $8, general admission $5. Where to stay: Days Inn, 863/682-0303, doubles $50; Diplomat Inn, 863/688-7972, rooms start at $69; Howard Johnson, 863/682-0101, rooms start at $45. "The ultimate spring training ballpark is one that has a special relationship with the community," says Nick Gandy, president of the Florida Sports Foundation. Joker Marchant Stadium, the Detroit Tigers' spring home since 1934, is the quintessential example, holding the record for the longest ballpark-franchise relationship in spring baseball history. Every year the Chamber of Commerce throws a kick off barbecue for fans and players. (Call 863/688-8551 for details.) In return, the Tigers also host the Major League Scramble where community members (and visitors) can win a chance to play golf with their favorite players. Last year, all-star slugger Juan Gonzales was the grand prize partner. (Call 863/534-4372 for information.) In the stadium, 7,000 bright orange-and-blue seats offset the shock of brilliant green grass. (You won't find any artificial turf around here.) With your typical March game day in Florida being sunny and 77 degrees, a game at Tigertown may just make you the happiest fan since Rudy Giuliani at the 2000 Subway Series. And the experience is only getting better. They plan on funneling $9 million into the stadium to enhance seating and create a berm in left field. Osceola County Stadium (Kissimmee, near Orlando) Houston Astros. Ticket information: 407/933-2520. Ticket prices: box seats $12, reserved $10, general admission $7. Places to stay: Quality Inn Conference Center, 407/846-4545, rooms start at $59; Holiday Inn, 407/846-4646, rooms start at $49; Travelodge, 407/846-1530, rooms start at $55. This will be the 16th spring training season for the Astros at 5,100-seat Osceola County Stadium (the smallest in the league), another ballpark that prides itself on player accessibility. From mid-February through March, Astrophiles are allowed to watch every workout - no charge. Even on game days, when the gates open at 11 a.m., you can watch both teams take batting practice. And unlike the newer stadiums, neither the home nor the visiting clubhouse is connected to dugouts, so players must walk outside with the fans where they will often sign autographs and pose for photographs. There are also autograph opportunities after the game in a roped-off area outside the clubhouse. The park itself, with pine trees lining the outfield, is considered one of the most picturesque for fans. It's also family-friendly. In left field at the end of the grandstand there's a fenced-off playground (with attendant) so parents have the option to drop off kids who might not want to sit through a game. McKechnie Field (Bradenton) Pittsburgh Pirates. Ticket information: 941/748-4610. Ticket prices: box seats $9, reserved $8, reserved general admission $6. Places to stay: Quality Inn and Suites, 941/747-6465, rooms start at $45; Days Inn, 941/ 746-1141, rooms start at $69.99; Holiday Inn, 941/747-3727, rooms start at $127. Built in 1923 (and home to the Pirates since 1969), the 6,600-seat Spanish-mission-style McKechnie Field was renovated in 1993 with careful attention to preserving the intimate, old-time atmosphere that led USA Today to dub it "the Fenway of spring parks." Members of the neighboring Boys and Girls Club like to take in the games through a large hole in the left field fence (deliberately created by the Pirates), but for a reasonable $6 general admission ticket, I recommend taking a seat - there's not a bad one in the house. The 1993 renovation provided McKechnie with a state-of-the-art P.A. system, but you won't find them blaring it obnoxiously like they do at the slick new parks. "We try to maintain a relaxed, family environment," says a spokesperson. Diehard Pirate followers may want to mark their 2002 calendars for the annual "fantasy camp" in which amateurs can play aging professionals (this year's was January 14-21). And this year, McKechnie will be hosting an array of 30th anniversary celebrations to commemorate the Pirates' 1971 championship team. For more information on special events, call 941/747-3031. Chain of Lakes Park (Winter Haven) Cleveland Indians. Ticket information: 863/293-3900. Ticket prices: berm seating $5 to lower box seats $13. Places to stay: Howard Johnson, 863/294-7321, rooms start at $90; Best Western, 863/ 324-5950, rooms start at $95. The 7,000-seat stadium situated next to scenic Lake Lulu was built in 1966 and has been home to the Indians for nine years - ever since the Boston Red Sox left for ritzier digs in Fort Myers. Retaining its golden-era magic is so important to Cleveland's Chain Of Lakes Park that authorities are actually considering replacing the electronic scoreboard with a manual one. As Florida operations manager Jerry Crabb says, "We want the experience to be how we all remember baseball." That means more organ music than Top 40 hits. It also means opening the park in mid-February so baseball enthusiasts can wander the grounds and watch players practice - for free. They keep up this policy throughout March, except on game days when fans must pay to get into the stadium. Winter Haven's Chamber of Commerce kicks off the season with a barbecue on the Wednesday before opening day for players and fans. Information is available through the Chamber of Commerce at 863/293-2138.