Cape Town, South Africa

Sometimes with difficulty, but almost always eventually, vegetarian travelers are able to compose and receive a vegetarian meal at restaurants that feature meat. But their best vacation meals are obviously at vegetarian restaurants--the kind that make a high art out of that approach to food. And the best type of assistance that a Web site like this can provide is information about where such restaurants can be found. Say you are cruising along California's Highway 99 in your rented Dodge Neon, heading to Sequoia National Park, but with a visit en route to Visalia to see an old friend. Soon the growling in your tummy is louder than the radio-it's well past lunchtime. You've been checking the roadside for chow choices, but it's a fast-food canyon of Sirloin Kings, Chicken Wings, Fried & Processed Things. No Veggie Village, Tofu Hut, or Broccoli Barn in sight. Since you became a vegetarian, it's been harder and harder to find fodder. Even though you're way outnumbered, your decision to forgo flesh in your diet puts you in the same club as Albert Einstein, Mr. Rogers, Janet Jackson, and many more. People who call themselves vegetarians fall into categories that range from lacto-ovos, who avoid meat and fish but consume dairy products and eggs, to vegans, who shun all foods involving animal participation, such as cheese, honey (stolen from bees), and gelatin-which comes from cow, fish, or pig bones, skin, and hoofs. There are fruitarian, macrobiotic, and raw-food devotees as well. Scrutinizing the "typical" American diet The typical American diet is under increased scrutiny. Our country is known for large portions and, increasingly, our girth. Whether you've opted out of the mainstream for health, spiritual, or monetary reasons, it takes planning to travel and vacation in Carnivoreland. You need a good map. Let's return to Highway 99. The meat eater, encircled by myriad fast-food joints, pulls into a Chicken A-Go-Go and, without leaving the car, orders a Mini Rooster Special: three pieces, breaded and fried, a thimble of cole slaw, a biscuit, and a soft drink. Cost in dollars: about seven. Nutritional cost: well over 1,000 calories, with at least 150 grams of fat. But since you packed for the road, you reach into your backpack for the reliable 32-page Guide to Fast Food, published by the Vegetarian Resource Group (send $6 to V.R.G., P.O. Box 1463, Baltimore, MD 21203; 410/366-8343, vrg.org/). This trusty booklet, packed with dietary minutiae, lists possible veggie options in the fast-food pantheons all over America. Did you know that vegetarian and vegan bean burritos are available at Taco Bell; that their beans do not contain animal fat; that Taco Bell's seasoned rice is no longer made with chicken broth; and that their tortilla wrappers are without dairy of any sort? Or that Jack in the Box, which you just passed on the freeway, has a great stuffed jalape o pepper with cheese? Were you aware that many Subway stores are now offering a meatless burger and vegan Fruizle smoothies? Those pithy pointers-and more-are set forth usefully in the Guide to Fast Food. For additional restaurant information totally free, you can go to www.vrg.org, click on Restaurants & Travel in the left-hand vertical box, and you'll be able to instantly access local vegetarian dining guides for Anaheim, California; Atlanta; Baltimore; Chicago; Denver; Los Angeles; Manhattan; Ohio; Orlando, Florida; and central Virginia. The more extensive, 434-page Vegetarian Journal's Guide to Natural Food Restaurants in the U.S. and Canada ($18, plus shipping) is also available from the Vegetarian Resource Group. You can also do well at the momma-and-poppa cafés. On our hypothetical itinerary, rather than slow down for a fast-food outlet, you continue into Fresno, California. In a minute you spot a small luncheonette on a side street. Because of the large, local Armenian population, this family-run place offers a lunch of homemade patlijan, a flavorful eggplant casserole, which you enjoy for the first time. Cost in dollars: about five. Nutritional cost: relatively low in fat and about 450 calories. In this instance, your curiosity has been an extension of the true travel ethic. With a short detour, you have been rewarded with a reasonably priced and flavorful meal, contributed to the local economy, and perhaps enjoyed an interesting conversation. Vegetarians save money There is anecdotal evidence that vegetarianism is growing. Restaurants, even those outside urban areas, have responded by taking salads more seriously and having at least one vegetarian entrée on their menus. At TGI Friday's, a nationwide chain, a rib dinner is about $13; shrimp dinner, $10; fish-and-chips, $8; burger, $6. But you can choose the grilled vegetable platter, including chunky and filling portobello mushrooms, for $8. While all this eating out is fun, every cheese sandwich you're served is priced to cover the cost of ingredients, labor, real estate, marketing, and salaries. To save money, think of your vacation as an expedition and pack a simple camping mess kit, a good slicing knife, a thermos, plastic bags you've saved, and a small cooler. Shop local stores for breakfast and lunch goodies such as yogurt, breads, fruits, and vegetables. If you're a coffee gourmet, bring your own pre-ground beans and immersion coil to protect yourself against the sin of watery java. With money saved on breakfast and lunch, you can treat yourself to a special dinner. If you're new to vegetarianism and would enjoy being with like-minded folks, explore vegetarian-friendly destinations. Talk to Donna Zeigfinger at Green Earth Travel (888/246-8343, vegtravel.com/) for assistance in finding retreats and resorts, both domestic and foreign. Prices range from surprisingly affordable to "a special experience." You can use the map on the Web site vegetarianusa.com for a geographic guide. Here's to healthy, low-cost eating! Veggie survival tips   Never hesitate to ask a waiter for items that may not appear on a restaurant's menu   Seek out ethnic dining, such as Asian, Indian, Mediterranean, and Middle Eastern, known for their vegetable and nonmeat dishes   Look for student cafeterias in college towns   Watch for buffets and salad bars   Consult websites like Chowbaby.com for additional restaurant nutritional information For biking enthusiasts, we recommend Bicycle Beano Cycling Holidays (and no, the name has nothing to do with the pills that fight gas. In the U.K., "Beano" is slang for "party" or "jolly"). While the firm claims that the majority of their clients are not vegetarians, participants are served a gourmet, vegan or vegetarian breakfasts and dinners, and dropped off at pubs (where vegetable-only options are readily available) for lunch. When not chowing down, clients cycle through some of the most beautiful areas of the United Kingdom, including the Upper Wye Valley in Wales and the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. Tours are for 15 to 30 persons, and accommodations range from Georgian manors to Victorian homes to classic country inns. Rates range between £70 and £100 (about $128 to $181) per day and include breakfast, tea and dinner, accommodations, route sheets and the services of a cycling guide and mechanic. Bikes can be rented from nearby rental companies for an additional £60 and up per week. While Beano will accept checks in American dollars for their trips, they ask that an additional £20 is added to defray the costs of money changing. You can see a list of all Beano's programs on the Web at bicycle-beano.co.uk/ or write to them at Bicycle Beano, Erwood, Builth Wells, Powys, LD2 3PQ, Wales, UK (phone 011-44-1982-560471, e-mail mail@bicycle-beano.com). Founded in 1989 by professional chef Nigel Walker, Vegi Ventures Holidays puts together approximately 15 group tours a year to the United Kingdom, Peru and Turkey, that vary in their focus but all emphasize delicious vegetarian (or vegan) meals. The Peruvian trip, for example, is led by a noted anthropologist, and features, along with the more standard sightseeing excursions to Machu Picchu and Cusco, homestays with indigenous families on Taqulie Island and lectures on local culture and folklore. The English Lake District tour is less a cultural tour, than one of physical fitness--mornings began with an optional "stretch, breathing and movement" class, and the rest of the day is spent trekking the surrounding hills and mountains (owner Walker serves as chef for this tour). During Christmas and other odd times during the year, Veggie Ventures sponsors "Creativity" weekends around England that emphasize "skill sharing" in subjects ranging from music to yoga to cooking to botany. Prices for the trips are reasonable, and though most of their clients are British, all nationalities are welcome. For more information, write to Vegi Ventures, Castle Cottage, Castle Square, Castle Acre, Norfolk, PE32 2AJ, United Kingdom (phone 011-44-1760-755888), e-mail them at holidays@vegiventures.com or check out its Web site, vegiventures.com/. Green Earth Travel was founded in 1991 by Donna Zeigfinger, a seasoned veteran in the travel business. Zeigfeinger specializes in setting up customized itineraries for vegetarians and vegans, to destinations all across the globe. She reports that while cruiselines and hotels have made great strides in accommodating vegetarians, most are still stumped by the vegan requirements. She goes through a lengthy process of telephone calls and faxes for every client to ensure that their dietary needs will be met (and if that turns out not to be possible, she will advise a client against a trip)--a thorough, helpful and thoroughly professional travel agent. Call or write, Green Earth Travel, 7 Froude Circle, Cabin John, MD 20818 (phone 888/246-8343). Also be sure to visit the company's Web site at vegtravel.com. The site offers extensive listings of vegetarian B&B's and other accommodations in North America, Europe, Central America and the Caribbean, as well as postings on numerous vegi tours. You can also send an e-mail inquiry to greenearthtravel@aol.com. A vegetarian summer camp Located on the shores of Lake Champlain near Burlington, Vermont (on the YWCA grounds of Camp Hochelaga), Camp Common Ground is a cooperative, family-camp rooted in its dedication to a strictly vegetarian and organic cuisine. Since its beginning in 1994, families have regularly convened on the lakefront each summer, fulfilling the vision of camp founders "Peg and Jim" (still on the staff) of a community-oriented, family-run summer camp. From kayaking, to dance, to creative cooking, all activities are infused with this cooperative spirit, including daily chores, which the campers also share. Meals are prepared by an "amazing" staff of vegetarian cooks, with years of experience and served family-style. Between 150 and 160 campers fill the summertime retreat during its three-week run in August. Adults and teens pay $495/week, and kids, between $70 and $435 (booking after March 20 will add $20). To encourage diversity (one of the camp's founding principles) Camp Common Ground offers scholarships to about 40% of its attending families. Bunkbeds in 12 "rustic-style" cabins and 10 platform-tents house most of the campers; the rest bring their own tents. Platform tents cost $40 a week, and private cabins run $120 extra a week. Beds in shared cabins are $15 per bed, per week. (If you want a solid sleeping structure, be sure to make reservations early.) None of these accommodations come with private baths, so there are three communal bathhouses (men's, women's, and coed). Priority is given to returning families (about 60%) and the rest of the slots are filled on a first-come, first-served basis. For more information or to make reservations, contact Camp Common Ground, 159 Lost Road, St. George, VT 05495, phone 800/430-COOP (2667), or e-mail info@cgcvt.org. View the Web site at cgcvt.org. Helpful websites for vegetarians In addition, we'd recommend a visit to these helpful websites for vegetarian travelers: vegdining.com, vegtravel.com, vegsource.com, vrg.org, vegeats.com, vegetarian.about.com, happycow.net. Vegetarian travel books Fortunately, a small but growing number of guidebooks to vegetarian travel have been published, and are available either at bookstores specializing in travel, or through the mail. The following seem to be the key, recent works (and thus most likely to be up-to-date):   Vegetarian Traveler: Where to Stay if You're Vegetarian, Vegan, Environmentally Sensitive, by Jed and Susan Civic, ISBN: 0943914795, sold for $15.95   Vegetarian Journal's Guide To Natural Foods Restaurants in the U.S. and Canada, by The Vegetarian Resource Group, ISBN: 0931411270, sold for $17.95   Guide to Vegetarian Restaurants in Israel, by Mark Weintraub, ISBN: 0931411165, sold for $9.95   The Canadian Vegetarian Dining Guide, by Lynne Tomlinson, ISBN: 096975390X, sold for $9.95   The Vegetarian Visitor 2005: Where to Stay and Eat in Britain, edited by Annemarie Weitzel, ISBN: 1897766912, sold for $5.95   The Vegetarian Traveler's Guide to North America, by C.M. Ohanian, ISBN: 1883138000, sold for $8.95   The Tofu Tollbooth, by Elizabeth Zipern, Linor Zipern and Dar Williams, ISBN: 188610106X, sold for $14.95   The Vegetarian Traveler: A Guide to Eating Green in Over 200 Countries, by Bryan Geon, ISBN: 1894020855, sold for $12.95   The Artichoke Trail: A Guide to Vegetarian Restaurants, Organic Food Stores and Farmers' Markets in the US, by James Bernard Frost, ISBN: 1556508786, sold for $16.95   Vegetarian Walt Disney World and Greater Orlando, by Susan Shumaker and Than Saffel, foreword by Paul McCartney. ISBN: 0762727039, sold for $13.95. All the books listed above can be obtained from one or both of the following sources. Either call the well-known travel bookstore Book Passages at 800/999-7909 or 415/927-0960 (you can also order via the Web site at bookpassage.com); or contact the North American Vegetarian Society by phoning 518/568-7970 or visiting navs-online.org/. Most of these books can also be ordered from Barnes & Noble or Amazon.com.

Now don't get me wrong: not all spring training camps come cheap. The New York Yankees' facility in Tampa boasts luxury suites, seats 10,000 fans, and is a mini-replica of the Yanks' Bronx home. The Atlanta Braves' state-of-the-art training field in Orlando is the centerpiece of a $100 million sports complex found smack in the middle of Disney World. At both, actual game tickets can run $17, and admission to a mere training session, where you can watch Chipper Jones stretch his quads, can cost $8 and more. But these aren't what you and I mean by "spring training." The 1.5 million baseball buffs who make the annual pilgrimage to Florida from mid-February until March 31 aren't looking for a chance to cozy up in sky booths or with Mickey Mouse. They're seeking out the spring parks of yesteryear - the intimate ones that boast tinny-sounding organs, dugouts that consist of single wooden benches, and (most important) megacheap ticket prices. The six parks below deliver the low-cost, high-nostalgia version of the great American pastime, and with a little preparation you might even catch your own favorite team as it visits one of these classic spring parks, of which about 20 are scattered throughout the state. (To get you started on designing your fantasy itinerary, just think: Griffey on Monday, McGwire on Tuesday, Jeter on Wednesday.) Training starts mid-February; actual games commence March 1 and run through early April. For exact dates of games involving specific teams, contact either the Tampa Convention and Visitors Association (800/36-TAMPA) or the Florida Sports Foundation (850/488-8347). Both can send you information on schedules, tickets, addresses, maps, and special March events. Tickets are usually easy to secure at the stadium on game days - unless Very Big Name Teams or Very Big Name Players are in town - but to be safe, call ahead. Dodgertown (Vero Beach) Los Angeles Dodgers. Ticket information: 561/569-6858. Ticket prices: reserved $12. Places to stay: Howard Johnson, 561/ 567-5171, rooms start at $61; Comfort Inn, 561/569-0900, rooms start at $89; splurge: Palm Court, 561/231-2800, rooms start at $145. If you're going to get to only one Grapefruit League game, you should do your best to make sure it's at Vero Beach's Dodgertown, where the Dodgers have been playing since 1948 - a year after Jackie Robinson made his debut at Ebbets Field. Generally considered the most famous spring park, Dodgertown consists of the 6,500-seat Holman Stadium, six practice fields, ten batting cages, four pitching tunnels, plus a nine-hole public golf course, restaurant, and lounge. But it's best-known for its player accessibility - all Dodgers live and practice on the Dodgertown grounds - making it feel like a college campus. Fans can chat with players and get their autographs as they walk the 100-yard path from the clubhouse to the stadium. Holman Stadium features open dugouts (so the players are always in full view) and was the first to create a berm, the raised grassy area beyond the outfield where fans can picnic and spread out blankets while watching the game. Jack Russell Memorial Stadium (Clearwater) Philadelphia Phillies. Ticket information: 727/442-8496. Ticket prices: box seats $12, lower reserved $11, upper reserved $9, reserved $6. Places to stay: Ramada Inn, 727/446-2688, rooms start at $119; Days Inn, 727/447-8444, rooms start at $115. Built in 1955, 6,900-seat Jack Russell Memorial Stadium is brimming with old-world charm. On the first-base-side stands, right below a giant marquee reading, "The Way Baseball Was Meant to Be," sits 80-year-old Wilbur Snapp, the organ master who has been pounding out ballpark tunes for almost two decades. Jack Russell Stadium is also one of the few stadiums whose concession stand has imported the team's local flavor (Philly cheese-steaks, of course) to satisfy homesick fans. One of the beautiful things about spring training is the casual attitude adopted by the ushers who seem more concerned about catching the game themselves than making sure you're in the right seat with the right ticket. When I recently arrived at the entrance to a sold-out Phillies-Yankee game without tickets, an usher asked an early departing fan to give me his ticket stub - so I got in for free. You might not be so lucky, but at the very least, remember that there's room to negotiate. For information on special events, like the annual "Meet the Phillies" day (including clubhouse tours, fireworks, and games for kids), call 727/441-8638. Joker Marchant Stadium, Tigertown (Lakeland) Detroit Tigers. Ticket information: 863/603-6278, 863/688-7911. Ticket prices: reserved $8, general admission $5. Where to stay: Days Inn, 863/682-0303, doubles $50; Diplomat Inn, 863/688-7972, rooms start at $69; Howard Johnson, 863/682-0101, rooms start at $45. "The ultimate spring training ballpark is one that has a special relationship with the community," says Nick Gandy, president of the Florida Sports Foundation. Joker Marchant Stadium, the Detroit Tigers' spring home since 1934, is the quintessential example, holding the record for the longest ballpark-franchise relationship in spring baseball history. Every year the Chamber of Commerce throws a kick off barbecue for fans and players. (Call 863/688-8551 for details.) In return, the Tigers also host the Major League Scramble where community members (and visitors) can win a chance to play golf with their favorite players. Last year, all-star slugger Juan Gonzales was the grand prize partner. (Call 863/534-4372 for information.) In the stadium, 7,000 bright orange-and-blue seats offset the shock of brilliant green grass. (You won't find any artificial turf around here.) With your typical March game day in Florida being sunny and 77 degrees, a game at Tigertown may just make you the happiest fan since Rudy Giuliani at the 2000 Subway Series. And the experience is only getting better. They plan on funneling $9 million into the stadium to enhance seating and create a berm in left field. Osceola County Stadium (Kissimmee, near Orlando) Houston Astros. Ticket information: 407/933-2520. Ticket prices: box seats $12, reserved $10, general admission $7. Places to stay: Quality Inn Conference Center, 407/846-4545, rooms start at $59; Holiday Inn, 407/846-4646, rooms start at $49; Travelodge, 407/846-1530, rooms start at $55. This will be the 16th spring training season for the Astros at 5,100-seat Osceola County Stadium (the smallest in the league), another ballpark that prides itself on player accessibility. From mid-February through March, Astrophiles are allowed to watch every workout - no charge. Even on game days, when the gates open at 11 a.m., you can watch both teams take batting practice. And unlike the newer stadiums, neither the home nor the visiting clubhouse is connected to dugouts, so players must walk outside with the fans where they will often sign autographs and pose for photographs. There are also autograph opportunities after the game in a roped-off area outside the clubhouse. The park itself, with pine trees lining the outfield, is considered one of the most picturesque for fans. It's also family-friendly. In left field at the end of the grandstand there's a fenced-off playground (with attendant) so parents have the option to drop off kids who might not want to sit through a game. McKechnie Field (Bradenton) Pittsburgh Pirates. Ticket information: 941/748-4610. Ticket prices: box seats $9, reserved $8, reserved general admission $6. Places to stay: Quality Inn and Suites, 941/747-6465, rooms start at $45; Days Inn, 941/ 746-1141, rooms start at $69.99; Holiday Inn, 941/747-3727, rooms start at $127. Built in 1923 (and home to the Pirates since 1969), the 6,600-seat Spanish-mission-style McKechnie Field was renovated in 1993 with careful attention to preserving the intimate, old-time atmosphere that led USA Today to dub it "the Fenway of spring parks." Members of the neighboring Boys and Girls Club like to take in the games through a large hole in the left field fence (deliberately created by the Pirates), but for a reasonable $6 general admission ticket, I recommend taking a seat - there's not a bad one in the house. The 1993 renovation provided McKechnie with a state-of-the-art P.A. system, but you won't find them blaring it obnoxiously like they do at the slick new parks. "We try to maintain a relaxed, family environment," says a spokesperson. Diehard Pirate followers may want to mark their 2002 calendars for the annual "fantasy camp" in which amateurs can play aging professionals (this year's was January 14-21). And this year, McKechnie will be hosting an array of 30th anniversary celebrations to commemorate the Pirates' 1971 championship team. For more information on special events, call 941/747-3031. Chain of Lakes Park (Winter Haven) Cleveland Indians. Ticket information: 863/293-3900. Ticket prices: berm seating $5 to lower box seats $13. Places to stay: Howard Johnson, 863/294-7321, rooms start at $90; Best Western, 863/ 324-5950, rooms start at $95. The 7,000-seat stadium situated next to scenic Lake Lulu was built in 1966 and has been home to the Indians for nine years - ever since the Boston Red Sox left for ritzier digs in Fort Myers. Retaining its golden-era magic is so important to Cleveland's Chain Of Lakes Park that authorities are actually considering replacing the electronic scoreboard with a manual one. As Florida operations manager Jerry Crabb says, "We want the experience to be how we all remember baseball." That means more organ music than Top 40 hits. It also means opening the park in mid-February so baseball enthusiasts can wander the grounds and watch players practice - for free. They keep up this policy throughout March, except on game days when fans must pay to get into the stadium. Winter Haven's Chamber of Commerce kicks off the season with a barbecue on the Wednesday before opening day for players and fans. Information is available through the Chamber of Commerce at 863/293-2138.

You have to love a town where even the lampposts have flowerpots. Victoria, at the southeastern tip of Vancouver Island, on the western edge of Canada, feels like the last outpost of the British Empire, with shops full of china and meerschaum pipes-until you notice the totem poles, and the seals mooching fish scraps. But where else in North America can you go from a traditional afternoon tea to watching killer whales in less than an hour? Even though it's the capital of British Columbia, Victoria is often overshadowed by its neighbor Vancouver. But Victoria has all the same pleasures at a fraction of the cost, and because it has the mildest weather in the Pacific Northwest, it's a year-round destination. (Prices below are listed in American dollars.) The civilized side This is a walking city-the streets downtown are so congested, your best bet is to leave your car behind. Everything revolves around the Inner Harbour, so get an overview by riding the stubby, colorful Harbour Ferry (250/708-0201). For $10, you can take a circle tour, getting on and off as you please. From March to October, stop at Barb's Place (250/384-6515) for a $6.50 halibut burger. You'll find this floating restaurant by the houseboats at Fisherman's Wharf. In any season, cross the harbor to walk the waterfront Westsong Way, a 1.5-mile path that starts near the Commonwealth Pole (a totem pole commemorating the 1994 Commonwealth Games). Any view of Victoria is dominated by two landmarks, both designed by architect Francis Rattenbury. One is the Parliament Buildings and Legislative Grounds; when construction began in 1892, Rattenbury was only 25 years old. The project survived cost overruns and his own demanding nature-the man was picky about marble. Free daily tours show you where BC's laws are made, and how Rattenbury's hard work paid off. At night, the building's facade is lit up with thousands of tiny bulbs that are reflected in the harbor. Rattenbury's other masterpiece is the Fairmont Empress Hotel, which overlooks the harbor at 721 Government Street, right on Victoria's main tourist shopping drag. The Empress is where many celebrities stay when they are in town, and the prices reflect it. The swank atmosphere is definitely worth a walk-through, and in the basement there's an archive of hotel history-photos, linens, and silver to remind you of the days when dressing for dinner meant tuxedos and gowns. The nearby Royal British Columbia Museum has wonderful totem poles and masks. Go behind the museum to watch craftsmen work in the carving shed, keeping alive traditions that were ancient before Columbus ever got lost (675 Belleville St., 888/447-7977; $8 admission). Thanks to its temperate climate, Victoria is always in bloom. The most famous flower beds are 14 miles north of the city at the Butchart Gardens: 55 acres of riotous nature, including more rose varieties than you'll want to count (800 Benvenuto Ave., 866/652-4422; $11 to $14 admission depending on the season). The cheapest way to the gardens is by public bus-get on No. 75 downtown-but it'll take about 40 minutes. More efficient is Gray Line's Gardens Express (800/663-8390; admission and round-trip transport, $17 to $20 depending on the season). Or make a garden walk of your own: James Bay, on the harbor's south shore, is full of old houses, flower boxes, and charm. It's a perfect after-dinner stroll. You can't throw a crumpet without hitting a teahouse that serves tiny tarts, pots of Darjeeling tea, and watercress sandwiches. Tea at Point Ellice, a classic Victorian house, costs $14, including a tour of the grounds and maybe a game of croquet (2616 Pleasant St., 250/380-6506). Getting wild Make your kids scream with delight at the Victoria Bug Zoo, where eight-inch millipedes and giant leaf bugs will crawl on their hands (631 Courtney St., 250/384-2847; $4.25 adults). Or go for something bigger and slimier. The Pacific Undersea Gardens is the best chance to see what's under all that ocean: octopuses with 18-foot tentacle spans, wolf eels longer than your couch (490 Belleville St., 250/382-5717; $5.50 adults). Or go even bigger: There's nothing quite like seeing a 30-foot orca-they're like slippery pandas, with butcher's knives for teeth-hop out of the water to get a better look at you. Victoria has three local pods of orca, totaling about 80 animals. In winter, they head off to deeper waters (Baja, Alaska, etc.), but there are still seals, sea lions, porpoises, several species of whale, and unusual birds such as the rhinoceros auklet. The Inner Harbour Centre (950 Wharf St., 800/575-6700) runs orca expeditions from April through October for $64, and, when the orcas aren't around (November through March), marine wildlife tours for $42. Also, look for Caddy, the legendary sea monster "spotted" around Victoria for more than a century. Food and lodging Victoria's most expensive hotels are harborside, but prices drop dramatically just a few blocks away. Swans Suite Hotel is a 5- to 10-minute walk from the harbor; one-bedroom suites (many with water views, all with full kitchen and room for four) start at $93 in low season, from October through April, and $104 in high season, from July through September (506 Pandora Ave., 800/668-7926). The bistro downstairs, Wild Saffron, is a popular dinner spot, specializing in "West Coast cuisine" (entrZes start at $11). In the heart of downtown, the Bedford Regency has clean, surprisingly quiet doubles starting as low as $57 low season/$107 high season (1140 Government St., 800/665-6500). The Cherry Bank Hotel is a bit further out, but doubles are as low as $42/$50 with shared bath and $50/$71 with private bath (825 Burdett Ave., 800/998-6688). The Strathcona is right behind the Empress, with rates starting at $42/$64 for a double; it's a popular nightlife spot (919 Douglas St., 800/663-7476). A bit pricier in high season but with some nice history as the third-oldest hotel in Victoria is the James Bay Inn, with doubles from $39/$79 (270 Government St., 800/836-2649). Another good budget choice is Traveller's Inn, with three locations near downtown and doubles from $42/$85 (1850 Douglas St., 888/254-6476; 1961 Douglas St., 888/877-9444; 710 Queens Ave., 888/753-3774). Hostelling International Victoria, five minutes from the harbor, has beds from $12 to $15 (nonmembers add $3; 516 Yates St., 888/883-0099). If you arrive in Victoria without hotel reservations, stop at the Inner Harbour Tourist Info Centre, where you can pick up discount coupons and the free British Columbia Approved Accommodation guide (812 Wharf St., 250/953-2033). Or call Tourism Victoria at 800/663-3883. Victoria has the second-highest number of restaurants per capita in North America, after San Francisco. Willie's Bakery is a required stop in the morning for fresh muffins and cups of coffee big enough to drown in (537 Johnson St., 250/381-8414); breakfast, $2.50. Yates Street, near Bastion Square, has lots of bargain eateries, including Ferris' Oyster Bar and Grill, with its terrific sweet-potato fries (536 Yates St., 250/360-1824). EntrZes start at $9.25. Around the corner is Chandler's, a good choice for seafood (1250 Wharf St., 250/385-3474). EntrZe prices begin at $14. Mel Gibson called the lasagna at Pagliacci's the best he's ever eaten (1011 Broad St., 250/386-1662). Pasta dishes start at $8.50. And consider Hunan Village in Chinatown; the sesame chicken, $10.75, is astounding (546 Fisgard St., 250/382-0661).

Americans with disabilities are the largest minority in the country, over 54 million persons. Yet until recently, and especially before passage of the Americans With Disabilities Act, they were not well treated by the travel industry, and numerous vacation possibilities were effectively barred to them. And even when travel industries were friendly to people with disabilities, many times a lack of money destroyed a person's chance of taking part (a recent census survey found that 28 percent of people with a severe disability were below the poverty rate). With a growing, national sensitivity to their plight, reflected not merely in words but in legislation, the situation is today improving, though much remains to be done. Enforcement of the law is spotty, implementation is slow, and a great many travel facilities have not yet been adapted to the needs of our fellow citizens with impairments. The key advance has been in the creation of travel organizations and tour companies for those with disabilities, a movement that is still in its very earliest years. These fledgling firms, many of them actually headed by persons who themselves are affected by disabilities, have already enabled thousands of others to enjoy the rewards of travel, and they are capable of assisting even greater numbers if their existence becomes known. Below are short-cuts to specialized listings for disabled travelers: City and adventure tours SEARCH BEYOND ADVENTURES, INC.4603 Bloomington AvenueMinneapolis, MN 55407phone 800/800-9979 (in Mpls.-St. Paul area call 612/721-2800)Web: searchbeyond.com Kailash Dhaksinamurthi founded Search Beyond Adventures in 1979 as a wilderness adventure company specializing in the developmentally challenged and mobility impaired traveler. Over the years, however, S.B.A. has truly become a worldwide tour operator, reaching destinations across the globe, from Iceland to Vietnam. Aside from its large repertoire of destinations and tours, the company's forte is its ability to match each disabled traveler with just the right-sized group--the appropriate staff-to-vacationer ratio--to suit their needs and level of independence. Group sizes range from 4 to 30 travelers, but the staff to vacationer ratios only range from 1:2 to 1:4. It is crucial to understand, however, that at SBA travelers are not grouped according to disability, but rather according to how much individual attention they require, and how mobile they are. In other words, there is no differentiation between the blind, the hearing impaired, the developmentally impaired, and the mobility impaired, etc; differentiation is made based on level of mobility and overall independence. The pros and cons to this approach are considerable. The downside is that a traveler with one set of needs may not wish to be lumped indiscriminately in a group of people with different needs; e.g., a visually impaired traveler may find it pointless and inconvenient to be the only visually impaired person in a group of mobility impaired travelers. On the other hand, a visually impaired traveler could opt for a group with a 1:1 ratio, thus acquiring the two services most needed by a blind traveler: an individual guide and a good descriptor. The bottom line: no matter what your needs are, Search Beyond Adventures can accommodate you with the appropriate ratio, so that even someone demanding constant one-on-one attention can participate in group travel. Those looking to travel with SBA will eventually pass a screening, in which the Special Assistance coordinator will determine how much special attention traveler requires, and how mobile the traveler is. The Special Assistance coordinator will then suggest the appropriate tour category. Search Beyond launches about 175 all-inclusive tours each year, the majority of which are of the "Regular Tours" category, (that is, a 1:4 staff-vacationer ratio for ambulatory travelers). Among the U.S. tours, the most popular destinations are Florida and California, (which often includes time at either Disney World or Disneyland), and the Music City tours, which travel to Memphis, Nashville, Branson and New Orleans. Plenty of the New England and Mid Atlantic states are available, as well as Arizona, Utah, Nevada, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois, Iowa, Kansas, Alaska, and Hawaii. Camping trips, cruises, and baseball game outings are also available, as well as a number of international trips to Europe, Brazil, Australia, New Zealand, the Fiji Islands, Sri Lanka and Africa. The shortest tours are four days long, the longest are 11 days. Prices vary, depending on the length of the trip, the destination, and the category. Some examples: a three-day "football tour" to Boston, Florida or St. Paul, Minnesota, with visits to games and local attractions for just $400; a five-day Disney trip will start at $565 land-only. The lower the staff-vacationer ratio, the higher the price: so a six-day "Special Assistance" Disney/Orlando trip is $2,030 if departing from New York. All tours are all inclusive. To order its free 18-page full color catalogue and a list of departure prices, send an e-mail them or call its toll free number. Catholic pilgrimages CATHOLIC TRAVEL OFFICE10018 Cedar LaneKensington, Maryland 20895phone 301/530-8963, fax 301/530-6614E-mail catholictravel@erols.comWeb: catholictraveloffice.com Has arranged (for nearly 50 years) for persons with disabilities to travel to Lourdes and other Catholic shrines in Europe. Each fall (September 14 to 23 in 2003), it operates a large group trip (usually about 300 people) for persons with disabilities going to Lourdes. Accompanying the group are doctors, nurses, and paramedics. According to former manager Marie Gehringer, the key aspect of these journeys is the balm and comfort they bring to participants. "The spiritual healing is unbelievable," she reports. "On one recent trip we had a 25-year-old man who was dying of a brain tumor. Throughout the trip, he came out of himself, pushing those who were in wheelchairs, helping the blind visitors. He later remarked, before he died, that the trip had helped him come to peace with himself." Prices for the Lourdes pilgrimage start at $1,595 with flights from New York, $1,695 from Washington, D.C., $1,765 from Chicago, and $1,895 including air from San Francisco. Outdoor vacations that mix able-bodied and disabled travelers WILDERNESS INQUIRY808 14th Ave.Minneapolis, MN 55414-1516phone/TTY 800/728-0719, fax 612/676-9401 Web: wildernessinquiry.org/ Unlike the other organizations that we've listed in this article thus far, the primary focus of Wilderness Inquiry is to integrate tourists with disabilities with the able-bodied for vacations in which everyone learns about nature and each other. Wilderness Inquiry has hosted people of all levels and types of disabilities, including quadriplegics, deaf persons, blind persons, and the developmentally disabled. (A past kayaking trip, for example, to Isle Royal in Lake Superior was composed of three staff members, four able-bodied participants, a camper with cerebral palsy, a blind person, a person with a severe heart condition and another who had sustained a traumatic brain injury). The trips are rugged, yet relaxed in their pace, almost all involving camping. Participants are expected to help out with the daily chores (cooking, pitching tents, cleaning up, etc.) according to their abilities. The organization tries to put together groups in which the ability levels are balanced, to ensure that there is no undue burden on any of the participants. Most of Wilderness Inquiry's trips are reasonably priced, averaging $100 a day (or less), which covers all meals, equipment, instruction and staff. Popular ventures include a skiing and dog sledding trip in Northern Minnesota, a six-day canoeing trip through the Florida Everglades (including a visit to Shark Valley Nature Preserve with a lecture by a noted naturalist), a canoe trip through the Canyonlands and a 7 day "Lewis and Clark" canoe trip, which followed the famed explorers route down the Missouri River. In addition, Wilderness Inquiry sponsors a few international outings every year, to destinations such as Costa Rica and Australia. JUBILEE SAILING TRUSTHazel RoadWoolston, Southampton SO19 7GBphone 011-23-8044-9108, fax 011-23-8044-9145Web: jst.org.uk/ A mix of able-bodied and disabled passengers regularly embark on sailing adventures aboard the "Tenacious" and the "Lord Nelson," two huge 19th century style vessels. From afar these ships appear to be no different than the historic ones that have been turned into museums in the U.S. But the design of "Tenacious" and "Lord Nelson" (each of which were built within the last twenty years) have adaptations for persons with disabilities, including flat, wide decks that are wheelchair-friendly, lifts between decks for those who cannot negotiate steps or ladders, extra-large showers, and signs in Braille. And clientele are not just passengers aboard a cruise with Jubilee. Some 40 passengers (a maximum of 20 may have disabilities) actually become crewmembers on the ships, and each person must keep a four-hour watch every 16 hours on the high seas. Crewmembers are not expected to have any background as sailors, and will be taught how to set, stow, and brace the sails, tie knots, and steer the ship. Also, one hour each morning is set aside to clean the ship, and all are expected to help out. Most participants with disabilities use wheelchairs, but a variety of people with disabilities take part. There are about 60 different trips offered each year ranging from four days to four weeks. Summer sailings call at the major British and French ports; in winter the ships sail to the Canary Islands and the Caribbean. Trips start at $750; financial assistance is available. Prices are kept low in large part due to donations and corporate sponsors. Helpful travel agents ACCESS ADVENTURES206 Chestnut Ridge RoadRochester, New York 14624phone 716/889-9096 Another specialist in customized itineraries for a broad variety of handicapped travelers, Access Adventures plans vacations for 500 to 600 persons per year. It is owned and operated by a determined former director of a rehabilitation center, Deborah Lisena-Tyo, who aims to make the entire globe accessible. "I never say no," she says. "It's always 'no problem', or 'we'll figure it out.' I don't want to reinforce anyone's fears. I use my rehab counseling skills as much as my travel agent skills." Recently, she planned a trip for a paraplegic customer wanting to visit his childhood home in India--a tough assignment, she admits, but not one that she'd turn down. Around the same time, she arranged a trip for a woman with a circulatory disorder--she could not stand or sit for more than two hours at a time, but wanted to take her family to Australia. Ms. Lissena-Tyo was able to arrange for Qantas to provide the use of five seats at a reasonable, discounted price. This allowed her to lie down for a good part of the flight. Once "Down Under," the family traveled in an oversized station wagon, booked by Access, that once again accommodated the client's special needs. Occasionally (usually by special request only), Access does arrange group tours, although these tend to be for local groups in upstate New York. One summer, it arranged for the tenants of a "head injuries group home" to go to Cape Cod for a week. Access will locate nearby hotel beds for some of the travelers, find chefs to prepare "ground food" meals, and utilize a Cape Cod "independent living center" for such further help as the group may need. Customized "Day Trip Adventures" to sites such as Niagara Falls, the Stratford and Shaw Festivals in Canada. YATES TRAVEL205 East 63rd StreetNew York, New York 10021phone 800/545-8327 or 212/758-1498, or fax 212/308-7151E-mail RYates@pipeline.comWeb: yatestravel.com An expert in cruises (and a personal friend of my wife for many years), Ms. Yates' greatest triumph was recently arranging a cruise to Bermuda for two 94-year-old passengers, who apparently had a fine time. The veteran herself of many cruises, and a former executive with a mental health organization, Ms. Yates specializes in the cruise needs of a wide variety of persons with disabilities, and in the similar needs of elderly persons. SOCIETY FOR THE ADVANCEMENT OF TRAVEL BY THE HANDICAPPED347 Fifth AvenueNew York, New York 10016phone 212/447-7284Web: sath.org For disabilities that are not described in the foregoing discussion, travelers are always well-advised to contact The Society for the Advancement of Travel by the Handicapped ("S.A.T.H."), whose experts can usually suggest a source of assistance. Murray Vidockler, founder and funder of S.A.T.H., is one of the great human beings of the travel industry, and he is ably assisted by Peter Shaw-Lawrence, the fiery advocate for those with disabilites who is treasurer of the organization. In recent years, S.A.T.H. has begun publication of a periodical magazine for travelers with disabilities, called "Open World," that has quickly reached a high professional level and is absorbing to read, in addition to carrying many fact-filled, usable articles and advertisements on travel by the handicapped. Subscriptions in the U.S. and its possessions are $13 per year, and you can order one free issue online. For subscribers in Canada and all foreign countries, add $8. Checks should be made payable to SATH Publications. FLYING WHEELS TRAVEL SERVICE143 West BridgeBox 382Owatonna, MN 55060phone 507/451-5005, fax 507/451-1685Web: flyingwheelstravel.com Serves more than 500 mobility-impaired travelers a year. Destinations are always inspected in advance by a staff member, and trips operated in association with tour companies at the destination. The key to a successful trip, says president and founder, Barbara Jacobson, is attitude at the destination as much as accessibility; in many nations, disabilities are regarded with loathing, the blind or mobility-impaired hidden out of sight or made into beggars, so that travelers are confronted by the prejudices of the cultures they visit, and may have to deal with the emotional stresses that result. Attitude in turn leads to inaccessibility, the failure by the host nation to create access for those with disabilities. "If you want to go to Syria or Egypt (for example), you're going to get lifted." Flying Wheels recommends travelers allow three months for the planning of a trip, so that they can fully explore with the client the different features of each location. "The market is rapidly changing," says Ms Jacobson, referring to progress in the field." When we began in 1970, we could only handle escorted domestic tours, primarily to Hawaii and Disneyland. Now we go to all parts of the globe, offer cruises and customized itineraries." Ever since passage of the Americans With Disabilities Act, she points out, domestic travel in particular has been much less stressful, as more and more hotels and restaurants make their facilities accessible. SUNSET TRAVEL1580 Orchard St.Santa Rosa, CA 95404phone 707/887-7905 or fax 707/542-6274 In addition to operating tours of the wine country of northern California, and tours for gay and lesbian travelers to anywhere, Sunset provides customized itineraries for mobility-impaired persons, both domestic and international, and has done so for the last 11 years. Its founder, Linda Reitzell, was herself disabled by a head on collision in 1990. Her approach, from our own conversations with her, seems highly professional but pleasant. ACCESSIBLE JOURNEYS35 West Sellers AvenueRidley Park, Pennsylvania 19078phone 610/521-0339, or 800/846-4537, fax 610/521-6959.Web: accessiblejourneys.comEmail: sales@accessiblejourneys.com Founded by Howard McCoy in 1985 to provide travel opportunities for people who were mobility-impaired. "We're not an able-bodied travel agency that sets up a wing to attract more business," he explains. "This is all we've ever done in travel." According to Howard, what sets his company apart is that he has also remained personally committed to his original goals. Staff members from Accessible Journeys check out all of the sites, hotels and modes of transportation. "Every place we send visitors to we've been. We do all the site inspections and all the hotel inspections, and can tell people what to expect. For example, a visitor to India who wants to visit the Taj Mahal can expect to navigate 21 very tall steps up to the first level. We hire porters to lift people in their wheelchairs up the steps. We tell people before they take their trips that this is basically the only way to see that site, so there are no surprises later on-and then they can either book the tour or not. Whatever they are comfortable with." Accessible Journeys offers more than 40 different international tours and cruises a year and half a dozen domestic ones, many of which are then personally accompanied by Mr. McCoy. His clients come from all over the English-speaking world, and while he can provide them with airfare to the starting place of the tours, he finds that most people prefer to use frequent flyer miles, or wait for special deals. The company also creates customized itineraries for those desiring them, and finds licensed companions for passengers needing such assistance. Caribbean specialists WHEEL COACH SERVICES, INC.Sion Farm Commercial Center B7Christiansted, St. Croix U.S. Virgin Islands 00820phone 340/719-9335, fax 340/773-1414 Travelers with disabilities including dialysis needs, restricted movement, or just those who are slow walkers can enjoy a tour of the beautiful island of St. Croix by way of Wheel Coach Services. Wheel Coach does not usually arrange for entire vacations. Instead, it specializes in tours of the island (usually four hours long, costing $55 for those in wheelchairs, $45 for companions). Each vehicle can fit only two or three wheelchairs, so the exact itinerary is up to the customers. Usually the tour involves a scenic drive, and visits to a rum factory, a sugar plantation, and a botanical gardens. Wheel Coach can also make individualized arrangements for accessible activities for the disabled and equipment rentals. Specialists in Australia NEVERLAND ADVENTURES715 J. Street 201San Diego, CA, 92101phone 800/717-8226 or 619/696-6068, fax 619/696-6090Web: neverland-adventures.comE-mail: neverland@cox.net On his first day in Australia, Andy Huesing, who has a spinal cord injury, met a gentleman crossing the street named Rod Gothe. Both men had just arrived Down Under, and both were in wheelchairs. Both men had also noticed, on their arrival, the need for a company that would service travelers with disabilities. "So we set out on our own," says Huesing, "literally rolling from hotel to hotel, venue to venue, finding the best places to form the foundation of an accessible tour." Today, NeverLand Adventures boasts four to five group tours to Australia and New Zealand a year, and is recognized by the Australian Tourist Commission as the #1 specialist for disabled travelers to Australia. While the company is angled towards travelers with mobility impairments, its owners assure us that their "ultimate goal is to service as many types of people as possible." Clients have included people who are both visually and hearing impaired, and travelers with spinal cord injuries, M.S., M.D., cerebral palsy, Lou Gehrig's disease, spina bifida, brittle bone disease, diabetes, cancer, and slow walkers. To co-owner and founder Andy Huesing, the integrity of the holiday is a key concern. "There is a misconception that in order for a trip to be accessible it has to sacrifice a lot," says Huesing. "That was our biggest challenge. We wanted no compromises on our trips. We wanted our customers to be as free as possible on our trips, without the usual entanglements of disabled travel. This part is the most fun for me--seeing quadriplegics swimming in the Great Barrier Reef, people with M.S. riding camels in the outback, and 86-year-old women bungee jumping!" It is no wonder the company is named NeverLand Adventures: "In the Peter Pan mythos, NeverLand was a place of freedom and adventure where you never grew old--very in line with or philosophies," says Huesing. Groups are never larger than 12 customers, served by two or three staff and a bus driver. The company offers two-week tours in Australia and New Zealand starting at $3,400, and this includes absolutely everything except your flight to Australia: all transportation within Australia, hotels, meals, activities, motorcoach, scuba, and whatever else you do. For those wishing to experience the Outback, including Ayers Rock and Alice Springs, NeverLand offers a three-week Outback tour for $4,500, not including airfare. In addition, NeverLand Adventures plans to begin bringing Aussies to the U.S. in the near future. SEEMORE SCENIC TOURS4 Mallee StreetCrestmead, Queensland 4132 Australiaphone 011-61-7-3805-5588e-mail: seemore@ozepower.com Web: geocities.com/seemoretours Offers a variety of travel services for people with disabilities visiting Australia. Travel packages are usually customized based on type of disability and what the traveler would like to see. SeeMore arranges for accommodations, airport transfers, scooter and wheelchair rentals, transportation, and all kinds of tours (wine tasting tours are one of its specialties) to all parts of Australia. SeeMore also offers guided tours that cost as little as $25 for half-day or $35 for full-day itineraries, based on ten people taking part. Experts in the American West ACCESS TOURSP.O. Box 499Victor, ID 83455phone 800/929-4811Web: accesstours.org An idealistic, non-profit group that offers educational and environmentally-proper tours of the American West. Its director, Clint Gross, was one of the early white water river runners. When rafting became too commercial for his tastes, and tourism to the West became saturated with tour companies that had "no empathy for the indigenous peoples and with the land itself," Mr. Gross left the travel business. A few years later, a quadriplegic friend of his came to visit, and Mr. Gross was intrigued about forming a tour company for persons with ambulatory disorders--slow walkers and persons needing wheelchairs. He has, he says, a "passion" for teaching people the natural and human history of the American West, and wants his tours to be different from the standard. "I want people to be aware of where they've been. I detest the motor coach companies. Their idea of seeing Yellowstone is to breeze in from one side and go out the other--an average stay of five hours! When you ask the tourists afterwards where they've been, they have to re-read their postcards. They don't remember." On his tours, a maximum of 11 passengers form the group that visits the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, the South West, and "other special areas of the American West." Tours are usually about eight to ten days each, traveling at a leisurely pace to "soak up the sights," as Mr. Gross offers a running commentary on the history of the location. Access Tours runs four or five scheduled departures a year, and also will do custom itineraries for groups of six people or more. They've been in business since 1989. HANDICAPPED SCUBA ASSOCIATION INTERNATIONAL1104 El Prado, San Clemente, CA 92672phone 949/498-4540Web: hsascuba.comEmail: hsa@hsascuba.com Trains scuba instructors around the world in how to teach and dive with mobility impaired divers. In addition, the H.S.A. offers two or three group tours a year, for approximately 11 handicapped participants each. The trips are reasonably priced: The 2003 trip to Bonaire, for example, cost $920 for six days of diving and include all dives,hotels and ground transportation to and from the airport. For those who wish to travel on their own, the HSA provides, free of charges, a well researched "resort evaluation program". They have lists of scuba resorts, in almost all the major destinations, ranked by the accessibility of hotel facilities (i.e. roll-in showers, wide enough doors, etc.), and the expertise of the diving staff in dealing with divers with disabilities. The list is available on the organization's Web site, or you can call and someone will send it to you free of charge. Lift-equipped vans and scooter rentals WHEELCHAIR GETAWAYSPO Box 605Versailles, KY 40383Phone 800/536-5518Web: wheelchair-getaways.com The Hertz or Avis of the wheelchair set, this company rents lift-equipped vans and mini-vans with hand-controls (when specially requested). Most of Wheelchair Getaway's vehicles have either raised roofs or lowered floors, four-point wheelchair tie down with seat belts and power steering, locks and windows. Franchises are in Alabama, Arizona, California, Colorado, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maryland, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nevada, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Oklahoma, Pennsylvania, Puerto Rico, Rhode Island, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Vermont, Virginia, Washington State, Wisconsin and Washington, D.C. While the company does not provide drivers or guides, the owners of their franchises, according to president Richard Gatewood, are knowledgeable in the needs of mobility impaired travelers and happy to advise on local restaurants and recreational facilities. The company was founded in 1989. SCOOTAROUND, INC.584 Pembina Highway, Suite 208Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada, R3M 3X7phone 888/441-7575 or 204/982-0657, fax 204/478-1172Web: scootaround.com It all began when my father had a stroke," explained co-owner Lee Meagher. "We wanted to travel and not have to bring his scooter with us, but we found it near impossible to find scooters to rent. There's rarely a category for them in the yellow pages, and the companies that do rent them, often don't advertise it. They concentrate on sales and maintenance. So you really have to do a lot to find them." In the course of their travels, she, her father and her brother, were able, through laborious research, to find scooters in every city they wanted to visit. Not wanting to let their hard-won information go to waste, and recognizing that there must be many others in the same situation, they decided to found ScootAround. Currently, ScootAround serves as a network of scooter-rental companies in every major tourist and business destination in the United States and Canada. There are some 500 cities on its roster, including New York, Detroit, Montreal, Washington, Philadelphia, Phoenix, Honolulu, Chicago, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Minneapolis, and even San Juan, Puerto Rico, Amsterdam, and several cities in France. The company rates start at $110 for a three-day rental (it varies by location). In addition to scooters, it deals in manual and electric wheelchair rentals. MOBILITY INTERNATIONAL USAPO Box 10767Eugene, OR 97440phone 541/343-1284, fax 541/343-6812Web: miusa.org Mobility International manages the National Clearinghouse on Disability and Exchange. Its stated goals are to "work to educate people with disabilities and disability related organizations about international educational exchange opportunities ... and community and volunteer service programs." What does this mean? Well, if you or someone you know who has a physical disability, wants to go abroad to study (i.e. taking a course at a distant University), for work or to volunteer, M.I. will research the facilities of whatever institution you're interested in, free of charge. Want to do an exchange program? Call M.I. first--it can give you in-depth information on all the programs that are out there, and which best facilitate individuals with disabilities. Additionally, M.I. sponsors cultural exchanges themselves with the goals of "leadership training, community service, cross cultural experiential learning and advocacy for the rights and inclusion of persons with disabilities." M.I. publishes a comprehensive guide called "A World of Options" which describes everything "from spending a year as a high school student in Spain, to receiving on-the-job training in Denmark; from volunteering with grassroots organizations in Mexico, to being a college student studying in France; to becoming a Fulbright scholar in Ghana." To learn more, visit its informative Web site. In 2000, Susan Sygall, foudner of M.I., received the prestigious MacArthur Fellowship, commonly known as the "genius grant." Skiing and wilderness trips for persons with multiple sclerosis ADVENTURES WITHIN, INC.1250 S. OgdenDenver, CO 80210phone 303/744-8813e-mail adwithin@aol.comWeb: adventureswithin.org Adventures Within is a small non-profit organization that arranges skiing and outdoors trips for people affected with Multiple Sclerosis. Charlotte Robinson, director of Adventures Within, founded the organization soon after she was diagnosed with MS at the age of 26. Considering 40 percent of participants are repeat customers, this operation certainly seems to offer quality programs. Price is one reason these programs are so popular. Rates for a five-day ski vacation at the Breckenridge Resort in the Colorado Rockies, including special ski equipment rentals, private lessons, lodgings, and nearly all meals, cost just $425 per person. Transportation to Breckenridge is not included, however. Four to five-day outdoors trips in the summer (canoeing, camping, horseback riding, rock climbing, etc.) are also reasonable, costing between $375 and $425. African safaris EPIC ENABLED 14 Clovelly Road Fish Hoek 7975South Africaphone 011-27-21-782-9575e-mail info@epic-enabled.comWeb: epic-enabled.com Epic Enabled specializes in safari-style visits to South Africa for people in wheelchairs and those otherwise mobility impaired. Small groups (usually four to 12 people) tour through beautifully preserved spots such as Kruger National Park in a spacious Mercedes truck that is fully equipped for wheelchairs and people with disabilities. Accommodations during tours are tents, cottages, and rustic bungalows, and participants are expected to help out with washing dishes, building campfires, and other chores. In exchange for your work, prices are kept very low. An eight-day tour of Kruger National Park, including transfers to and from the airport in Johannesburg, three meals a day, and all entrance fees, starts at $825 per person. Day tours of Johannesburg and Cape Town start at $25 and $45, respectively. Each of Epic Enabled's tours has several opportunities to get out, see the beauty of South Africa, and get an up-close look at some of the world's most amazing wildlife. For travelers with visual impairments We know of two major companies set up to help visually impaired travelers. Both are well-established and well-respected operators, and we detail their programs below. ACCESSIBLE TOURSA Division of Directions Unlimited123 Green LaneBedford Hills, New York 10507phone 914/241-1700 or 800/533-5343Web: empressusa.com Lois Bonanni has headed Accessible Tours since 1982, shortly after her son became visually impaired. She has arranged both domestic trips and safaris in Africa, visits trans-Atlantic to Europe and trans-continental to Colorado. She has considerable confidence in the future of such travel by those with disabilities, now that hotel and cruise lines have finally begun setting aside rooms and facilities specially designed for their needs. In addition, travel needn't be more expensive for persons with disabilities, she believes. That's because U.S. hotels must now conform to federally-mandated standards, and provide facilities on a non-discriminatory basis. On occasion, Ms. Bonnani also plans and personally accompanies group tours to Europe with 10 to 12 visually impaired travelers. THE CAMPANIAN SOCIETYBox 167Oxford, OH 45056Telephone: 513/524-4846, fax: 513/523-0276Web: campanian.org/blindmain.shtmlE-mail: campania@one.net The innovative Campanian Society offers tours that rely not on sight but the other four senses, especially the sense of touch. The tour company visits the monuments of Washington, DC, the Ghetty Museum in Los Angeles and Museum of Modern Art in New York, sandwich glass factories in Cape Cod, the beaches of Key West, the Liberty Bell in Philadelphia, and anywhere else that permits visually impaired tourists to "see" the exhibits with their hands. The company also plans to offer trips to the aural Las Vegas (ca-ching!) and to San Francisco's Wine Country, where travelers only need their taste buds. The Campanian Society offers seven to eight group tours per year, of about 12 visually impaired travelers and their families each, and can also arrange individualized tour packages. Tours generally include first class hotel accommodations, but do not include airfare. However, the Campanian society does assist its blind constituents in arriving safely at the destination. A six-night trip will cost an average of $2,500-not cheap, but worthy of consideration as this is the only tour company of this kind (that we know of, at least). For travelers with developmental disabilities There are six major tour operators who have been offering caring, well-organized tours for adults with developmental disabilities for decades (in some cases). We profile these fine organizations below. SPROUT893 Amsterdam AvenueNew York, NY 10025phone 212/222-9575 or 888/222-9575 (from outside New York); fax 212/222-9768 Web: gosprout.com Given the breadth of its interests and the remarkable scope of its destinations, this is the "Club Med" of travel for the developmentally disabled. Participants whale watch on Cape Cod, attend Broadway shows, visit the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland, gamble in Atlantic City, make pilgrimages to Graceland, ride horses and more. International excursions ran this year to Puerto Rico and Europe. My personal favorite among their activities is "Make a Movie," when participants gather together to write a script, then act in the film. Professional film-makers are brought in to do the actual filming and a premiere party is later held to screen the completed film. "Sproutstock" is a take-off on Woodstock, an annual weekend music festival. The young man with Downs Syndrome who appeared in the TV drama, "Life Goes On," appeared in 1998 with his own rock and roll band. Sprout is rightly proud of its safety record--leaders undergo rigorous training, and less-experienced group leaders are always paired with those who have worked a few trips before. A single drawback: all departures are from New York City, New Paltz, NY, and Bridgeport, CT, Carteret, NJ, and participants must somehow manage to travel on their own to these areas, without assistance from Sprout. All trips make use of a 15-passenger van accommodating 10 participants and three Sprout leaders. Participants must have "high to moderate" functioning levels, be ambulatory, and possess full eyesight and hearing. Other slower and less intense trips are operated for elderly travelers who are developmentally disabled and others who want a slower pace. NEW DIRECTIONS5276 Hollister Avenue, #207Santa Barbara, California 93111phone 888-967-2841 or 805/967-2841, fax 805/964-7344. Web site: newdirectionstravel.com/ A non-profit organization, New Directions arranges "vacations with dignity" for the developmentally disabled, to "increase understanding and appreciation of such people by integrating them into society." Arranges group tours to major tourist destinations around the world (Jamaica, Hawaii, Europe, Las Vegas, Fiji) that are in all ways comparable to the tours offered to average travelers, and involve no stigma to the participant, like the stereotyped image of "all wearing matching t-shirts and holding onto a rope," in the words of the group's former assistant director, Antonio Daniel. As most of New Directions' passengers come from institutional settings, the organization makes a major effort to give them as much freedom of choice on their vacations as possible. Room service or dinner with the group, an afternoon of snorkeling or shopping or sunbathing, sleeping in or jumping up to greet the dawn---all options are available, and the fact of choice can be a welcome respite from the more regimented life of group homes and institutions. The vacations, according to New Directions, have a lasting effect on their clients. Counselors and therapists report increased self-esteem, and a marked decrease in behavioral problems for months after their trips. The organization was founded 18 years ago by Dee Duncan, a counselor at a residential care facility. It has grown steadily over the years and now offers approximately 40 tours a year. Most trips accommodate eight to 20 persons, and this year's offerings include vacationing at a California dude ranch, touring Hawaii, and the "Holiday Happiness Trip"--four days in Disneyland at Christmas for persons without families. While the trips are not always inexpensive, they cost more to operate than the client pays. New Directions offers scholarships to all clients and can assist in finding regional subsidies. PEOPLE AND PLACES76 Riley St.East Aurora, NY 14052phone 716/937-1813 or fax 716/937-1814 Tours for adults with developmental disabilities, with 100 widely-varied departures a year, for an average of eight persons on each departure. Escorts are all volunteers with experience in the mental health field, usually as social workers, nurses or therapists. Participants supply full profiles of their health and needs on the application form, so that escorts can deal with such emergencies as might arise. The form can be requested by phone or by visiting the website. The company has been in business for 27 years, and publishes a handsome, 60-page catalogue. SUNDIAL SPECIAL VACATIONS2609 Highway 101 N., Suite 103Seaside, OR 97138phone 800/547-9198 or 503/738-3324, or fax 503/738-3369Web: sundialtour.com Operating for the past 34 years, this is the one not-for-profit company known to me that specializes in tours for developmentally disabled adults. It is remarkably active, and sends out an average of two or three tours of 30 to 35 persons a month, primarily to theme parks in domestic locations: Disneyland and Disney World, Universal Studios, Hershey Park, Branson, and western dude ranches. More recently, a number of international trips--cruises to Mexico and Alaska, Montreal and Quebec, a safari in Kenya, and the British Isles--have been attempted. Tours are each led by at least one paid employee and a staff of volunteers, many from the mental health field, and participants are arranged into groups by their levels of "self-care." "Tours for higher functioning individuals" have a ratio of one escort per every seven travelers and are for those "who can care for personal needs without reminders." The rest have a higher ratio of escorts, one to five, and are for those who may need "reminders to care for their personal needs." "We do this not from the pocket book but from the heart. This is not a money maker," says owner Patricia Conner, who has a consistent record (mentioned by other companies in the field) in keeping costs low for her clients. Funds for the tours come entirely from private sources--especially from parents of the mentally disabled individual. More than 60% of all clients, according to Sundial, are "returnees," a reflection of the general satisfaction with these tours. THE GUIDED TOUR 7900 Old York Road, Suite 114-BElkins Park, PA 19027-2339phone 1-800-783-5841 or 215/782-1370fax 215/635-2637Web: guidedtour.com This is one of the largest and most diversified tour operators specializing in the developmentally challenged traveler: 40 part-time, fully licensed social workers, therapeutic recreators, and direct care personnel, along with Irv Segal and his family, operate 64 trips a year, servicing approximately 1,000 clients. TGT's size, however, does not compromise its quality; in fact, while most services like this one are staffed primarily by volunteers, TGT distinguishes itself by employing only paid professionals in the human services field, many of whom have worked for TGT for upwards of 15 years. In addition, TGT guarantees individual attention: the ratio staffers to clients is always 1:3, and should a person have to travel to a destination alone, a staff person is arranged to meet the individual at that destination. TGT offers a wide array of destinations and activities. Three of the most popular programs offered by The Guided Tour include a stay at the Jersey Shore, Camp Lee Mar, or a visit to Walt Disney World. The Shore program, in operation since 1981, is run by eight staff members, and hosts 13 to 14 participants in a house in Ventnor, New Jersey, three blocks from Atlantic City and eight houses from the beach. The program runs from June to mid-September, and in September guests attend the Miss America festivities. Camp Lee Mar, in Lackawaxen, PA, was purchased by The Guided Tour in 1994, and since then it has served as a summer camp for persons with developmental challenges, ages 5 to 21. The camp is fully air-conditioned, and aims to combine recreation with academics, including speech therapy, perceptual training, computers, and daily living skills. From September through June, the camp is an adult resort. Other tour locations include Europe, Mexico, Hawaii, the Jersey Shore, Walt Disney World, Amish country, Iceland, and the Pocono Mountains. Activities include concerts, dances, cruises, and sightseeing, (special accommodations are made for mobility impaired persons). Above all, The Guided Tour aims to provide vacations with dignity, as other tour operators in this category do. For example, travelers are taught how to manage their own travel budgets, and Mr. Segal always chooses restaurants where his clients will be allowed to sit where they want and eat like everyone else. The Guided Tour became a full-time, year-round operation in 1972, after Segal left his post as director of the Ronald B. Nipon Association, one of America's first recreation and socialization programs for adults with developmental challenges. Mr. Segal was formerly the director of the Association for Developmental Disabilities/Young Adult Group, and more recently served as chairman of S.A.T.H.-the Society for the Advancement of Travel for the Handicapped. TRIPS INC.P.O. Box 10885Eugene, OR 97440 USAphone 800/686-1013, fax 541/465-9355Web: tripsinc.com A quality organization that has been featured in stories in nationally respected newspapers such as "The Oregonian" and "The Los Angeles Times," Trips Inc. offers vacations for people with developmental disabilities to destinations like Disney World, San Diego, baseball's spring training in Arizona, Washington D.C., Australia, Nashville, Las Vegas, and New Orleans. There are also several road trips that leave from Portland, Oregon, bound for Seattle, central Oregon, or other reasonably close vacation spots. Trips Inc's background is in special education (it is not a travel operator that switched to the developmentally disabled market) so chaperones, trip organizers, and leaders are well-versed in the special needs of clients. When flying is required, the price of airfare from the Northwest (usually valid from Seattle, San Francisco, or Portland) is included in the rates. For example, an eight-day vacation to Disney World and a Disney Cruise cost $3,100 per person, including air from the West Coast, and a six-day vacation to San Diego (with visits to SeaWorld and the city's famous zoo), cost $1,795, also with air included. Of course if a passenger is flying from elsewhere, or does not need air at all, prices will vary. The road trips seem to be the most budget-friendly options. A six-day camping trip to Lake Billy Chinook in central Oregon costs $895, and a five-day visit to Seattle costs $995. A chaperone to traveler ratio of 1:3 or 1:4 is maintained on each trip, and groups average about 20 people total.