Video: How to order coffee like a Roman

By Kate Appleton
October 3, 2012

Stopping at the local bar for an espresso comes naturally to Romans. But this quick ritual can be intimidating for visitors. The way you order and your choice of drinks have little in common with the experience at your neighborhood Starbucks.

Watch the video that Massimiliano Navarra and I filmed at Rome's Tazza d'Oro for tips on how to caffeinate properly—including the difference between a latte macchiato and a caffè lungo and when never to order a cappuccino.

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The Parisians are on vacation! Rent their apartments

French workers are blessed with six weeks of vacation a year, on average. Many of them take a full month off in late summer. Their good fortune is also yours. The reason? A good number of vacationing Parisians will try to sublet their apartments while off dallying in the Maldives. These exchanges happen first and foremost by word of mouth. Parisian party chat in early summer consists of "where are you going on holiday?" and "do you know anyone who wants to rent my apartment?" Twitter and Facebook are also increasingly being used to advertise apartment availability, i.e. "going 2 Bali rent my Aug apt 300 wk". If you have a local connection or participate in any Paris discussion groups, it's a good idea to make your vacation desires known. For those without a local friend, Craigslist is a great way to connect with departing Parisians. A glance at "sublets and temporary housing" today revealed about forty different listings for July and August. You can snag a one-bedroom in the Marais for €500 per week or a two-room studio along the Bassin de la Villette (my favorite 'hood) for €300 per week. Advantages: These informal exchanges are much cheaper than traditional short-term rentals, which are already much cheaper than hotels per night. You can generally stay a week for the same price as a couple of nights in a hotel. Apartments offer the possibility of cooking—or at least of morning coffee. They also offer a look "behind the curtain" at local life. Disadvantages: Unlike the short-term rentals that we've discussed in "Paris at a Price That's Right" and here, these are "real" and lived-in apartments, filled (for better or worse) with the occupant's stuff. That could mean a well-stocked gourmet kitchen and a library filled with interesting books. It could also mean clutter and bursting closets. Cleanliness varies. Some hosts will scrub their apartments, but most will do a quick tidy before heading out the door. They'll usually leave you with a contact number in case of emergency, but you'll otherwise be on your own. As mentioned in a previous blog post on Paris sublets, it's buyer beware with these informal agreements. I've had friends arrive at their holiday apartment to find somebody else already settled in. I've heard about travelers sending security deposits to people who subsequently disappeared. The best way to avoid trouble is to ask a lot of questions, trust your instincts, and avoid wiring any money. These warnings aside, informal rentals offer incredible value and a way for unfussy travelers to lengthen their stay in Paris. They also help the fortunate Parisians to order a few extra Piña Coladas during their holidays. Everybody wins. Let's hear now from you: What have been your experiences in renting apartments from Craigslist or similar websites? Any advice or strategies to share? OUR AFFORDABLE PARIS BLOG SERIES

Inspiration

Will Paris shops soon be open on Sunday?

American visitors in search of retail therapy have long been shocked to find Paris shops closed on Sunday. With a few exceptions—the Champs-Elysées, the Marais, and some parts of Belleville—the city's boutiques are dead on dimanche. There's a reason for this: the opening of retail stores without special permission has been illegal under a 1906 law that established Sunday as a mandatory day of rest. That law may soon be changing. A bill proposing to relax the Sunday restriction has just passed in the National Assembly. It goes next week to the Senate, where it's expected to pass before being adopted later this month. French President Sarkozy was elected, in part, on a campaign promise to open shopping on Sunday. He promised that the easing of labor restrictions would help the French "work more to earn more." The Obama family's recent visit gave Sarkozy's argument a second wind, according to this article from the AFP. He asked legislators "Is it normal that on a Sunday, when Madame Obama wants to go shopping in Paris with her girls, that I have to make phone calls to get them to open?" Not everyone thinks that Paris shops be open on Sunday. Opponents of the shopping bill fear that this measure will put an end to the beloved tradition of the Sunday family lunch. They also worry that small shops, if they choose not to stay open, might be crushed by superstores. CLICKABLES Sunday in Paris: Where do I eat? Practical Paris: What's closed on Sundays, Mondays, and Tuesdays?