What $100 Buys in... Florence

By Kate Appleton
April 30, 2007
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In the Tuscan capital, where Michelangelo carved his David and Gucci designed his first handbag, even mundane objects are beautiful.

$15 Soap Santa Maria Novella is one of the world's oldest and most beautiful pharmacies. Housed in a frescoed former chapel since 1612, the shop is known for its natural products like fragrant, moisturizing olive oil soap. Free tours, offered by appointment, include the on-site library and museum, which display centuries-old recipe books and vases. Via della Scala 16, 011-39/055-216-276.

$3 Eraser In the midst of the great paintings and architecture of the Renaissance, even a non-artist might be inspired to sketch. Pick up a pretty eraser depicting Brunelleschi's imposing dome--the city's most recognizable landmark--at Il Papiro, a shop next door. Piazza del Duomo 24r, 011-39/055-281-628.

$21 Earrings At her tiny boutique, Falsi Gioielli (fake jewels), Silvia Franciosi hand-cuts Plexiglas for earrings and threads crystals onto necklaces. Her bold designs are popular with students at the university down the street. Via de' Ginori 34r, 011-39/055-287-237.

$19 Photo Album Artisans have been marbleizing paper, known as carta fiorentina, by hand for centuries. An example of the swirly pavone (peacock) style, this album makes a fitting home for snapshots and mementos. Archetipo, via de' Ginori 13r, 011-39/055-210-088.

$24 Gloves Madova, an 88-year-old shop now at the base of the Ponte Vecchio, sells its cashmere-lined kidskin gloves for upward of $50. But sifting through an easy-to-overlook basket on the counter for a few minutes can yield a pair with an imperceptible defect at a fraction of the price. Via Guicciardini 1r, 011-39/055-239-6526.

$10 Wine Stopper Hand-painted tappi, good for preserving the last drops in a bottle of Chianti, are common souvenirs. They're made from the same terra-cotta that gives the city its famous red-tile roofs. Sbigoli Terrecotte, via Sant'Egidio 4r, 011-39/055-247-9713.

$5 Honey Pecorino cheese drizzled with honey is a classic Tuscan starter. Re-create the dish with miele di girasole, sunflower honey made by Benedictine monks near Siena and sold by their brothers at San Miniato, a church that overlooks Florence. Via delle Porte Sante 34, 011-39/055-234-2731.

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India's Little Black Dress

The Basics Saris are made of six yards of fabric. The most ornate work usually appears on the pallav, which is slung over your shoulder and hangs to just below the knees. Some stitching is needed or a sari will curl up at the edges. A tailor attaches a thin stretch of starched cloth, called a fall piece, along the edge that drapes around your feet. A bidding, or hem, is sewn at each short side. Underneath the sari, you wear a blouse and a petticoat, no exceptions. (For more background on the sari, go to tourismofindia.com/exi/sari.htm.) Locals almost never buy blouses off the rack, though some shops sell packages that include a pre-stitched sari with a petticoat sewn in and a T-shirt-like blouse--fine if all you want is a souvenir. Finding a Shop Stores in big cities have fantastic fabrics, salespeople who speak English, and firm prices (no haggling). The most reputable shops tend to be glittery places, but even the splashiest stock reasonably priced saris. Emporiums such as Kala Niketan in Mumbai (95 Queens Rd., near the Marine Lines station, 011-91/22-2200-5001) and Nalli Silk Sarees, with locations in Mumbai, Chennai, and Delhi (F-44, in South Extension 1, Delhi, 011-91/11-2462-9926), have in-house tailors who will stitch the fall piece and bidding for free or for a nominal charge. If the shop doesn't have an in-house tailor, it probably works with one nearby. Likewise, a matching center, where petticoats and blouse fabrics are sold, may not be in the same store as the one selling saris. The price is about the same whether you have all the work done in one building or three, so try for a store that does it all. Getting an outfit made usually takes three days. Picking a Fabric Cotton saris can cost anywhere from $10 to $100 depending on the weave and the thread count (100-120 is good) and whether the fabric is hand-loomed. Polyester and cotton-poly blends cost the same as or less than pure cotton. Muslin saris start at about $50, and you'll pay $120 to $3,000 for silk. On the high end, you can expect exquisite handiwork and perhaps a smattering of crystals. Colors and Prints Younger women tend to like vibrant reds, yellows, and oranges, even neon pink. White and muted colors turn up more on older women. Black is fashionable for everyone as evening wear. But saris are rarely a solid color; nearly all are jazzed up with golden embroidery, jacquard weaves, tie-dyes, sequins, and other touches. Creating an Outfit Material for a blouse typically costs $2 to $10 ($3 to $12 more for tailoring), though it's sometimes included with the sari. Blouse styles include low and high backs, spaghetti straps, cap sleeves, and tank-top shoulders. Petticoats, in cotton poplin or satin, usually come in small, medium, and large. They're not supposed to be seen, so the color should match the sari. Middle-class Indians pay $5 to $10 for petticoats, but shopkeepers may charge tourists a little bit more. If they ask for double or triple that, they're ripping you off.

It's a Yurt Spurt

BIG SUR, CALIF. Treebones Resort"On our honeymoon in Big Sur, we fell in love with the beautiful starry nights, the sound of the waves, and the seals barking," says Corinne Handy of Treebones Resort. She and her husband, John, bought the 10-acre property in 1988; after years of working to secure the necessary permits, they opened Treebones in 2004. The 16 yurts are wired for electricity, with private decks; some have indoor gas-burning fireplaces. Food: At night, entrées like grilled salmon and barbecued ribs are served in front of the lodge's crackling fire (from $18). Or guests can dine outside at the 60-foot redwood bar. Activities: There's a heated pool and a hot tub; trailheads for the Los Padres forest are a 10-minute drive away. The resort also arranges guided day hikes (from $99) and sea-kayaking tours (from $55). Details: 877/424-4787, treebonesresort.com, from $145, includes breakfast. Shared baths. Open year-round. THE ARDÈCHE, FRANCE CanvaschicOverlooking the Ardèche River, Canvaschic is in the Gorges de l'Ardèche national park, 90 minutes north of Avignon. British expats Ruth Lawson and her husband, Lodewijk van den Belt, started Canvaschic in 2003 in the Languedoc but moved in 2006. Four of the 14 yurts are in their own patches of woods, while the other 10, which sleep as many as four, are clustered to accommodate groups. Yurts may have traditional quilts on the bamboo beds built by Lodewijk. Food: Couples' yurts have small kitchens, while the other units share four kitchen tents equipped with fridges, stoves, and barbecues. Activities: Hiking trails pass right through Canvaschic, providing access to the river's beaches and swimming holes. Details: 011-33/4-66-24-21-81, canvaschic.com, from $166 per yurt (three-night minimum), with breakfast. Shared baths. Open April-October. BAJA CALIFORNIA, MEXICO Las AnimasPilot and surfer Kevin Warren opened Las Animas Wilderness Retreat, on Baja's Sea of Cortés, in 2000. Accessible only by boat, the eight solar-powered yurts each have two twin beds; three family units also come with a lofted queen bed. Bathrooms have showers and compost toilets. Yurts up on a bluff have private decks with water views. Food: Meals, made with seafood caught by guests, are eaten communal-style on a waterfront deck. Activities: Necessary equipment and guides for fishing, kitesurfing, sailing, kayaking, and diving are included. Naturalists lead desert hikes and swims with sea lions. Details: 800/221-9283, bajaairventures.com, from $1,600 per person per week; includes meals, two-hour flight from San Diego to Baja, and boat transfer to resort. Open year-round. CORNWALL, ENGLAND YurtworksOn 40 acres in southwest England, Yurtworks is the picture of green country living. Owner Tim Hutton raises chickens and cows organically and uses the farm's trees for his yurt-building business. The two yurts are separated by more than 300 feet of woodland. The four-person one is bohemian chic, with Mongolian wall hangings; the six-person tent is decorated more simply. Both have thick futons; candle lanterns provide light. Food: Yurts have wood-burning stoves; there's also a fire pit and a barbecue in each yurt's field. Tim sells the farm's fruits, vegetables, eggs, bacon, and sausages. Activities: You can rent bikes in Wadebridge, eight miles south, and explore the coast. Details: 011-44/1208-850-670, yurtworks.co.uk, from $537 per yurt per week. Shorter stays available when booked one month in advance. Shared baths. Open April to mid-October. ANDALUCÍA, SPAIN Hoopoe Yurt HotelHoopoe is in the foothills of the Sierra de Grazalema, surrounded by olive and cork trees. British owners Ed and Henrietta Hunt and their two kids live on-site in private yurts. Four of the seven yurts were imported from Asia, two others from England. The last one, made in Spain, doesn't have heavy linings, so light pours through. All are decorated with textiles collected on the couple's travels. Each yurt has electricity and its own bath hut next door, with a hot shower, composting toilet, and sink. Food: Henrietta cooks three-course Mediterranean meals, served at a large table under a lantern-lit pergola (from $40). Activities: After a hike, it's tempting to lounge in the hammocks under the trees and simply soak in the pool. Some nights, guests watch movies that are projected onto the side of a yurt or smoke a hookah. Details: 011-34/952-117-055, yurthotel.com, from $105 (three-night minimum), includes breakfast. Open April to mid-October. LYCIA, TURKEY Huzur VadisiIn a pine forest along the southwestern coast, Huzur Vadisi ("peaceful valley") is focused on activities like yoga, massage, and aromatherapy. Jane Worrall, a Brit who lived in the area as a child; her brother Ian; and their partner, Tanfer Taka, built the 10 yurts with chestnut saplings. The wooden twin beds were made by Turkish craftsmen, and the quilts are from area markets. Food: Chef Sevgi uses ingredients such as the camp's olives and figs to produce local specialties. Activities: About half the season is dedicated to weeklong yoga courses. During Just Be weeks, there's no schedule. Guests swim in the pool and lounge in the kösk, a kind of tree house. Details: 011-44/197-429-8366, huzurvadisi.com, from $733 per person per week, with meals. Yoga weeks from $830. Shared baths. Open May-October.

Budget Travel Masthead

Editor Erik Torkells ...Ojai, Calif. Art Director Amy Helin ...Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica Managing Editor Marilyn Holstein ...Sag Harbor, N.Y. Picture Editor Amy Lundeen ...New York City Senior Editor Laurie Kuntz ...Portsmouth, N.H. Senior Editor Brad Tuttle ...Whitefish, Mont. Assistant Managing Editor Suzy Walrath ...Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia Associate Editor Laura MacNeil ...Lisbon, Portugal Associate Art Director Sarah Irick ...Sayulita, Mexico Associate Art Director Tamara Powell Surtees ...Victoria, British Columbia Editorial Production Manager Lauren Feuer ...Culebra, Puerto Rico Senior Picture Editor Rebecca Simpson ...Annapolis, Md. Associate Picture Editor Lauren Keenan ...Big Sur, Calif. Copy Editor Thomas Berger ...Charleston, S.C. Assistant Editor David LaHuta ...British Virgin Islands Assistant Editor Naomi Lindt ...Ajaccio, Corsica, France Assistant Editor Lindsey Ramsey ...Lake Como, Italy Editorial Assistant Sarah McCormick ...Martha's Vineyard, Mass. Art Assistant Jacky Carter ...Cinque Terre, Italy Intern Josh May ...Boca Raton, Fla. Intern Silvia Usle ...Hawaii General Manager Online Michelle Preli ...Majorca, Spain Managing Editor Online Suzanne McElfresh ...New York City Senior Editor Online Sean O'Neill ...Rome, Italy Editor Online Kate Appleton ...Pacific Heights, San Francisco Producer Online Ruthie Kaposi ...Jerusalem, Israel Web Developer Jeff Beam ...San Diego Audience Development Director Online Laura M. Smith ...Baja California, Mexico