Where to Drink the Vesper

Quantum of Solace (release date: November 2008)The Palio, Siena, ItalyThe scene: In the fast-paced opening scene, Bond (Daniel Craig) chases a spy through a warren of medieval aqueducts in Siena. In the summer, you can take a tour of the subterranean cisterns through La Diana Association (011-39/366-358-8181, $13). Bond eventually pops up through a manhole in Piazza del Campo, the shell-shaped main plaza. He's directly in the path of the Palio bareback horse race. He then pursues the spy across the rooftops.The place: Ten horses representing Siena's wards thunder around Piazza del Campo. The afternoon event—which happens every year on July 2 and August 16—is called the palio, which means "banner," for the silk banner that's awarded to the winning horse. It's the most exciting 90 seconds in Italian sports, so be sure to stake out a spot in the plaza at least six hours in advance. ilpalio.org/palioenglish.htm, free. Bonus Quantum of Solace travel tipIn one key scene, Bond's plane is shot down. He has to share his parachute with his latest paramour, Camille (played by Olga Kurylenko). The scene was actually filmed in Bedford, England, at Bodyflight, a skydiving center with a wind tunnel that simulates free-falling at 120 miles per hour. There aren't cables in the wind tunnel. You're literally floating! from $70 Goldfinger (1964)Fontainebleau Miami Beach, Fla.The scene: Designed by architectural visionary Morris Lapidus and opened in 1954, the Fontainebleau takes center frame of the famous aerial shot that opens Goldfinger. Later, the dourly amused Bond (Sean Connery) catches the greedy Auric Goldfinger (Gert Fröbe) cheating at cards by the hotel's pool.The place: Sadly for fans, the hotel scenes were a ruse. To save money, the actors performed on a replica of the hotel's pool deck at Pinewood Studios in England. Fictional CIA agent Felix Leiter (Cec Linder) did, however, drop by the actual hotel in northern Miami Beach for some exterior and establishing shots. The Fontainebleau has recently undergone a half-billion dollar facelift. The 22-acre property re-opens November 14 with a spectacular 40,000-square-foot spa. 800/548-8886, fontainebleau.com, from $245. Dr. No (1962)Dunn's River Falls & Park, Ocho Rios, Jamaica The scene: When the incomparable Honey Ryder (Ursula Andress) emerges from the waves—to the delight of Bond (Connery) and generations of men worldwide—she does so along the shores of Laughing Waters, a private Jamaican estate. Bond and Ryder then trek inland to pursue the mysterious Dr. No, breaking for a refreshing dip at Dunn's River Falls.The place: Now receiving about 1 million visitors a year, Dunn's River Falls is a 640-foot tall waterfall on Jamaica's northern coast. It is three miles from the tourist haunts of Ocho Rios. Guides walk you up the rocks in a human chain, treading carefully for about an hour through the cascades. Splash around, and then take a rest on a nearby terrace—where you can dream of Ursula to your heart's content. 876/974-5944, dunnsriverfallsja.com, admission $15 for adults. The Man with the Golden Gun (1974)Ko Tapu, near Phuket, ThailandThe scene: Bond (Roger Moore) pilots his seaplane to an island to confront Francisco Scaramanga (Christopher Lee), an assassin who has kidnapped his bombshell du jour, Mary Goodnight (Britt Ekland). Bond is greeted on the beach by the diminutive, slightly sinister minion Nick Nack (Hervé Villechaize), who proffers a bottle of Dom Pérignon on a tray. From a hidden perch, Scaramanga removes the cork with a single well-placed shot, demonstrating his marksmanship—and his flair for the dramatic. Bond and the assassin adjourn for banter and gunplay.The place: As Bond and Scaramanga duel, viewers see a pillar of rock spiking out of the water in the background. This is Ko Tapu, which lies in Phangnga, a bay off Thailand. On the beach where the fictional duel takes place, vendors today hawk trinkets and overpriced beer. Despite the commercialism, the beach still offers cinematic views of Ko Tapu, which has been nicknamed James Bond Island. Book a sightseeing trip there—along with a tour of the mangrove forests of Ao Phang-nga National Park—through a hotel concierge in Phuket. jamesbondisland.com, tours from $27. From Russia with Love (1963)Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, TurkeyThe scene: Built around the year 532, Hagia Sofia has alternately served as a church and as a mosque. Bond (Connery) slips into the structure not to pray but to meet Tatiana Romanova (Daniela Bianchi), a beautiful Russian who can help him get his hands on a Soviet encryption device. Posing as a tourist, Bond is there when a Soviet agent, who is trailing Romanova, is suddenly offed by a lurking assassin. After a tour guide points out the "porphyry columns" and the "ablution fountain," Bond deftly snatches documents from the agent's corpse—a small twist in the movie's intricate plot.The place: Hagia Sophia is the premier example of Byzantine architecture. The building's dome, reaching about 180 feet above a stone floor, is particularly remarkable. On a bright day, 40 windows along the dome's base create the illusion that the dome is floating on sunlight. If you visit, be prepared to pass through one of the metal detectors that have been installed since Bond's mission. 011-90/212-528-4500, english.istanbul.gov.tr, admission $8. Octopussy (1983)Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur, IndiaThe scene: Investigating a crime ring, Bond (Moore) swims to the island hideout of a jewel smuggler—Octopussy (Maud Adams). Bond infiltrates her watery lair and outwits her cult of deadly octo-babes by donning a crocodile suit that doubles as a submarine. It doesn't take long for the suave überspy to seduce his enemy and uncover valuable clues, but not without facing his share of challenges, including a memorable run-in with an irritable saw-blade enthusiast.The place: Octopussy's home is set at the Taj Lake Palace, a hotel in northwestern India. The white-marble structure was built 262 years ago as a summer home for a royal family. It fills a four-acre island on Lake Pichola in such a way as to create the illusion that it is floating on the lake's surface. Today, the 83-room hotel charges steep rates. And don't try to boat over and take a closer look—the hotel says it only permits overnight guests to visit. 011-91/294-242-8800, tajhotels.com, from about $740. GoldenEye (1995)Le Casino de Monte-Carlo, MonacoThe scene: Bond (Pierce Brosnan) engages in an amorous, vehicular duel with Xenia Onatopp (Famke Janssen), an agent for an evil crime syndicate. After the "auto erotic" race, Bond follows Onatopp into Le Casino de Monte-Carlo, the centerpiece of the Monte Carlo quarter in Monaco, a principality that borders Italy and France.The place: The casino is a classic belle epoque structure and served as the inspiration for the setting of a climactic betting game in Ian Fleming's first James Bond novel, Casino Royale. Entrance fees to the casino start at about $16—formal attire is standard. The casino has no in-house hotel. Rooms may instead be rented a few steps away at the equally classic Hôtel de Paris (from about $630). 011-33/377-9806-2121, casinomontecarlo.com. Casino Royale (2006)One&Only Ocean Club, Paradise Island, BahamasThe scene: Bond (Craig) flies to the Bahamas to thwart a stock swindle that might ultimately fund terrorism. Traveling to the swank One&Only Ocean Club on Paradise Island, Bond joins a card game versus a henchman with a gambling problem. Our hero manages to win the henchman's Aston Martin—and bed the man's wife, of course.The place: In real life, the One&Only sponsors no public gaming. But it does have a dune beach and a Versailles-inspired garden. If you go, be prepared to take out a second mortgage to fund your stay—or look for lodging starting at about $200 per night at the nearby Atlantis, a fancy resort with a casino. 888/528-7157, oneandonlyresorts.com, rooms from $500. This story has been updated with new information since it was first published on June 2, 2008.

Chattanooga, Tenn.: Heading to Paris next month. Can you recommend a good restuarant(s) to have a good, but not necessarily super-fancy or expensive meal in Paris. We will typically be eating picnic-style from markets, but we would like to have at least one French cuisine dining experience while in Paris. Thanks! Clotilde Dusoulier: Paris offers plenty of what we call "neo bistros," i.e. casual restaurants that offer great food for a reasonable price. I can for instance suggest Au Fil des Saisons in the 3rd, or Le Pré Verre in the 5th. _______________________ St. Paul, Minn.: I will be in Europe from 9/5/08 to 9/22/08. While in Paris from 9/15 to 9/22, I would like to dine in Alain Ducasse's restaurant in the Eiffel Tower, Le Jules Verne for lunch. I would welcome any advice on obtaining reservations or other tips. Thanks for your help. Clotilde Dusoulier: Excelent idea—the lunch service at Le Jules Verne is an very good deal. Reservations for lunch are not too difficult to come by: call two or three weeks in advance to be safe, and don't forget to request a windowside table. _______________________ College Park, Md.: Hi, Clotilde! Your blog is wonderful. I was wondering if you could recommend some good strategies for vegetarians who love Paris but don't want to starve? Any restaurant recommendations? Thanks! Clotilde Dusoulier: Rather than going to all-vegetarian restaurants (I'm usually not impressed by the ones we have in Paris), I recommend going to vegetarian-friendly restaurants that offer vegetarian options, or whose cuisine is so vegetable-oriented you will find it easy to get by with a few adjustments. I can mention Rose Bakery in the 9th, Soya in the 11th, or Macéo in the 2nd. _______________________ St Nicolas du Pelem, Brittany: We love day trips to Paris, but have yet to find a decent 'formule'. We seem to find expensive mediocre food, especially in the tourist spots. We are looking for a possibly family run restaurant, that has a set lunchtime menu for a good price. Clotilde Dusoulier: Good lunch deals abound in Paris if you know where to look—lunchtime is actually the best time to eat out if you're on a budget. Two lunch formules that spring to mind are that of Mon Vieil Ami, a handsome bistro on Ile Saint-Louis in the 4th, or that of Autour d'un Verre, a homey wine bar in the 9th. _______________________ Minneapolis, Minn.: I will be in Paris (for the first time) with 4 other women friends (all of us in our 40's) this June (16-18th). With the value of the American dollar going down, what would be your recommendation for "tasting" Paris on a budget? Also, do you have any recommendations for the wine lovers in our group? Merci, Laura Clotilde Dusoulier: To enjoy Paris on a budget, one of the tips I can share is to take advantage of greenmarkets and food shops : buy quality prepared foods (quiches, terrines, salads, cheese, bread, fruit, pastries) and eat "picnic-style" for at least part of the time. Renting an apartment with a kitchen is also a great money-saving strategy. _______________________ Pittsburgh, Pa.: My teenage daughters and I will be traveling to Paris in less than a week. We do not speak French, and are wondering how to find places that speak English, and are "American Friendly." We hear stories about the French not liking non French speaking customers. Any advice on how we can plan an itinerary that includes safe areas and menus we can read and easily order from would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Clotilde Dusoulier: That's a great question, as the language barrier can sometimes get things off to a faulty start. My first recommendation is that you try to find a little time before you leave (or on the plane!) to learn a few very basic words and phrases; it really is the best investment you can make to prepare for your trip. The idea is simply to show that you're making an effort: people will then be happy to meet you halfway. And regardless of your language skills, you should always address a French person in French first, and never assume that they speak or even understand English. _______________________ Staunton, Va.: My wife and I are planning on visiting Paris in mid August. What are the negatives of this time of year and the upsides? Thanks. Clotilde Dusoulier: Re: August in Paris, the pros are that the weather is usually nice and that there is a uniquely relaxed atmosphere in the city. The con is that many businesses, including restaurants and food shops, close down during the month of August, or from mid-July to mid-August. _______________________ Washington, D.C.: My partner and I are planning a trip to Paris in November. We're vegetarians and chocolate lovers. Do you have any tips on essential chocolate stops? And is it possible to find fab veggie-friendly meals in Paris? Clotilde Dusoulier: Paris is heaven for the chocolate lover, so you're going to have a wonderful time. Among my favorites, let me mention Patrick Roger (he has shops in the 6th and the 16th) and Arnaud Lahrer in the 18th. (As for vegetarian-friendly meals in Paris, please refer to the question from College Park, MD above.) _______________________ Oakland, Calif.: Hi! My fiancee and I are going to Paris and Provence for our honeymoon this summer. She has celiac's disease so is gluten-free. Any recommendations for her dietary restriction while there? Clotilde Dusoulier: Unfortunately, the French tend not to be very well informed on the gluten-free diet, so eating out can prove a challenge. I suggest you print out one of those cards that explain (in French) what gluten-free means and what your fiancee cannot eat. In general, she should always ask that the chef hold the sauce (generally thickened with flour). Of course, renting an apartment with a kitchen in which you can cook your own meals will make things a lot easier, and you'll be able to find gluten-free foods in natural foods stores. _______________________ Syracuse, N.Y.: Hello! My husband and I are thinking of taking a trip to Paris in the spring of 2009. I am a cheese lover and we would like to know if there are any cheese tasting tours anywhere in Paris or nearby. We both also want to be able to experience Paris but maybe take a day or two to see smaller, country towns near to Paris as well that give us a feel for a more simple France. Thanks in advance! Marci Clotilde Dusoulier: I can't recommend a cheese tasting tour per se, but you don't really need a tour guide to taste cheese in Paris: if you visit a good cheese shop where they refine their own cheese (such as Laurent Dubois in the 15th), they'll be able to advise you on an assortment of what's best on that particular day. _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: We will be going to Paris for one week in June with children ages 5 and 8. What are some great kid friendly restaurants, cafes, meal ideas? What is absolutely a not to be missed event for kids in Paris? Thank you. Clotilde Dusoulier: "Picnic-style" eating (see above) is perfect with children, and they'll likely enjoy visiting the markets to put together the menu with you. Other than that, large brasserie-style restaurants are kid-friendly, and I can recommend Chartier in the 9th, or Brasserie Wepler in the 18th. _______________________ Sao Paulo, Brazil: Please suggest some cooking ingrediants that are only available in Paris (or France) that I could buy to take back to Brazil. For instance in Brazil, we have dende oil, malagueta peppers, and a kind of canned cream that is used alot. I do not see these items other places. Merci. Clotilde Dusoulier: For edible souvenirs that travel well, I can suggest hazelnut oil, fleur de sel, salted butter caramels, good mustard from Brives or Meaux, Tarbais beans, dried mushrooms, Espelette chili pepper... You'll find all those things at gourmet grocery stores, such as Lafayette Gourmet in the 9th. _______________________ Clotilde Dusoulier: Thank you very much for participation, and I wish you all a delicious stay in Paris! You can read about my cooking pursuits on my blog, Chocolate & Zucchini, and take a look at my new book on Paris restaurants and food shops, Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris, in which I share more tips, recommendations, and recipes on how to navigate the Paris food scene.

$16 Hat Panama hats actually originated in Ecuador, where they're handwoven from native Carludovica palmata straw. Fine hats sold at Homero Ortega Peñafiel e Hijos take a month to finish. Benalcázar N 2-52, between Bolivar and Sucre, 593/22-953-337, homeroortega.com. $10 Prints The museum, and former home, of Oswaldo Guayasamín, a Quito-born painter who depicted the country's indigenous Indians, is on a hill above the city. Calle José Bosmediano 543, 011-593/22-465-265. $8 CD Traditional folk music, played on wind instruments carved from Andean carrizo trees, can be found at Artesanías Sumagta. García Noreno 8-92 and Espejo, 011-593/22-953-025. $5 Napkin rings Artisans on the outskirts of Calderón use colored bread dough to sculpt tableware in the shapes of animals and dolls. El Danzante, Calle Carapungo 771 and Quitus, 011-593/22-825-892. $5 Pan flute Street musicians often perform on the rondador, a straight pan flute that produces two tones at a time. Find it at Centro Cultural Tianguez, a free-trade store that supports vendors nationwide. Plaza de San Francisco. $9 Necklaces Tagua seeds, which are found in the jungles of Ecuador, look like ivory when carved to make jewelry. Centro Cultural Tianguez, Plaza de San Francisco. $3 Bowl Indian mucahua pottery is traditionally used for drinking chicha, a fermented beverage made with maize or yucca. Centro Cultural Tianguez, Plaza de San Francisco. $20 Mask Each June 21, the residents of Quito wear wooden animal masks to celebrate the harvest festival of Corpus Christi. Centro Cultural Tianguez, Plaza de San Francisco. $7 Basket Generations of fisherman have been using these V-shaped baskets to hold their daily catch. Centro Cultural Tianguez, Plaza de San Francisco. $6 Belt The Indians of Ecuador's Sierra region believe that the rainbow is a link between heaven and earth, which is why most native clothing is woven with all the colors of the rainbow. Centro Cultural Tianguez, Plaza de San Francisco.

If you have an anecdote, please send it in to TrueStories@BudgetTravel.com! You might win a Celebrity cruise to Alaska, Hawaii, the Caribbean, or South America. Kids, meet your new teacher On a motorcycle trip through the Alps, my friend Bill and I stopped for lunch at a café in Ponte di Legno, a village in northern Italy. It was a local hangout with lively conversation, great food, and even a guitar-carrying nun. After we sat down, we noticed people filing outside, followed by a series of loud noises. "Are those firecrackers?" Bill asked. I looked out the window, and I couldn't believe my eyes. The nun, all of five feet tall, was cracking a bullwhip to the cheers of the crowd. With her feet planted, habit flying, and whip snapping, she ought to have been in a rodeo! David A. Swezey, Everett, Wash. Some kids dream of being Superman, others Lex Luthor I was in a phone booth in London when two boys began circling it with duct tape! I had to wait some time for a passerby to free me. Walking down the street, I saw the boys in an alley, and they smiled and waved. I couldn't help but smile back. Stephanie Fallon, West Chester, Pa. So the giraffe says, "Hey, baby, wanna neck?" The giraffes we encountered at a Kenyan reserve will eat from your hand, but if you put a nugget of food in your mouth, they'll take it from there, too. My grandson Andrew was eager to try it—and he got the best kiss of all. French, anyone? Aileen Saunders, College Place, Wash. You try doing it in high winds My friend and I were in Buenos Aires, and our guidebook recommended Tierra Santa, a religious theme park that resembles Jerusalem. "We regret to inform you that Christ will not be resurrected due to high winds," said a voice over the loudspeaker as we entered. "We will resume the resurrection as soon as possible." Twenty minutes later, the winds died, and sure enough, an eight-foot-tall Jesus emerged from a mountain. "Ave Maria" played, and everyone stopped to watch. Caroline Friesen, Seattle, Wash. Now that's a filthy story In Guanacaste, Costa Rica, my husband, Scott, and I hurried back from a hike to make it in time for our mud bath. The other guests in our group were already coated in mud and baking in the sun. When we entered the hut, two men motioned Scott to leave while they studiously painted me with mud from head to toe, leaving no skin uncovered and following close around my bikini. When I emerged from the hut, the people in our group asked how I got my mud on so perfectly; theirs was streaky and uneven. I said that was how the two men applied it. "What men?" they said. "We were all instructed to put it on ourselves!" Scott and I never did see those two guys again. Pam Anderson, Sussex, Wis. If you were a bidet, you'd probably be angry, too As we settled into our Florence hotel, we discovered an out-of-control bidet frothing all over. I found a maid, whose eyes got big when she saw the mess. She yelled down the hall, and another maid came in. They exchanged a few words, glanced at me, and burst into laughter. We'll never know what they said, but I suspect it was something like, "Was she trying to shampoo her hair in the bidet?" Maryka Biaggio, Portland, Ore. Sorry, but only her best friends get to call her that In Thailand, I came down with dengue fever and had to check in to a guesthouse for a few weeks. The innkeeper introduced herself as what I understood to be "So." She took wonderful care of me, and we became friends. When the time came for me to leave, she sat me down and explained that all this time I'd been calling her by the wrong name. Because I'd been using the wrong emphasis and tone, I'd been calling her "Three-Colored Pork." Samantha Kersten, Ham Lake, Minn. Everyone knows that a priest doesn't want a wife As a young cleric in Rome, I ventured to purchase a sweater. I'd been studying Italian and decided I was ready for a test run. Dressed in my religious habit, I went to a clothing store in Trastevere. I told the young shopkeeper that I was there to buy a sweater, but instead of saying maglia (sweater), I said moglie (wife). She smiled and asked me what kind of moglie I'd like. A moglie negra, I said—a black wife. By that time, a small group of women had gathered. She asked me to be more specific. I said I wanted a pesante negra moglie—a heavy black wife. The audience giggled. She then asked why I wanted a heavy black wife. "Riscaldarmi," I responded—to keep me warm. Everybody howled, and the shopkeeper told me in English that she might not have a heavy black wife for me, but she did happen to have a very nice sweater. Philip Traynor, Fresno, Calif. He's just bitter because he never evolved At a raja's palace in India, my friend Howard suggested I take a photo of him with one of the many monkeys that roam the grounds. He handed me his camera and inched over to a monkey sitting calmly on a wall. I snapped the first picture, of the two peacefully making eye contact—and by luck, I also captured the moment that followed. Fortunately for Howard, the monkey didn't pursue further. Dean Divis, Greenfield Center, N.Y.