European Alps

By David Howard
June 4, 2005
Many skiers are opting for France, Italy, and Switzerland this winter

The shrinking cost of European travel has made skiing in the Alps an increasingly appealing budget proposition. These days, for well under $1,000-sometimes for less than $700-you can get a round-trip flight and seven-night stay within a few ski lengths of Europe's best powder. You merely have to avoid peak weeks and settle for modest but comfortable three-star hotels. Why such a bargain? Europeans are hungry to get Americans back after a rough, post-September 11 winter last year. There's also a still-robust (but recently weaker) dollar, a surplus of seats on transatlantic routes in winter, and the bargain-basement price of European lift tickets (generally less than half what you'll pay in the Rockies). If you're coming from the Midwest or West, the money you'll save on lifts in Europe should make up for the extra transcontinental airfare-generally between $50 and $200-that you'll need to add to the air-and-land prices from East Coast gateways that we'll cite below. For wholly reasonable rates, you get to make your turns where skiing was invented and soak in some of the unique Alpine culture and history after the ski lifts shut down for the day.

For this article, we've surveyed the largest U.S.-based tour companies that specialize in skiing in the Alps to cull the best bargains at five of the top budget resorts in Italy, Switzerland, and France. Except where otherwise noted, the prices listed in this article are per person for round-trip air from northeastern cities (primarily New York, Newark, and Boston), and seven nights at a hotel (based on double occupancy) with continental breakfast, transfers, and European service charges and taxes. Airline taxes are generally not included. Note carefully that some of the prices apply only in January and the latter half of March. Packages are subject to availability, and prices go up in February and early March, when Europeans tend to flock to the mountains.

1. Cortina, Italy

Nicknamed "the Queen of the Dolomites," Cortina is a thousand-year-old village that looks far pricier than it is. Despite the chic shops peddling racy Italian fashions, Cortina is an ideal destination for families and bargain-hunting skiers. There's plenty of good terrain up among the soaring red-rock crags, with a vertical drop of up to 4,500 feet, but Cortina is generally not about gonzo skiing; nearly two thirds of its 87 miles of trails are geared for intermediates. There's also a bobsled track and a new cross-country ski center. Sharp-eyed James Bond fans will recognize the resort from scenes from For Your Eyes Only.

Adventures on Skis (800/628-9655, advonskis.com) offers a package in January that includes round-trip transatlantic airfare and seven nights at the three-star Hotel Olimpia for $670 ($730 in March); the boxy lodge isn't much to look at from the outside, but it's centrally located, a short walk from the lifts, and has a sauna and Jacuzzi. A six-day ski pass at Cortina costs $150.

2. Chamonix, France

What's startling about Europe is how Alpine resorts dwarf their American counterparts. France's eminent Chamonix, sprawling across the eastern foot of Mont Blanc, the highest peak in the Alps, takes in a whopping 30,000 acres, with runs that descend more than 9,200 vertical feet-nearly a two-mile drop. (By comparison, Vail, one of America's larger ski areas, offers about 5,300 skiable acres with vertical drops of 3,400 feet.) Because of its massive size, Chamonix can be all things to all skiers, from beginners to daredevils who appreciate hair-raising, off-piste challenges on untouched powder. "The beauty of such large areas is that a lot of it never gets tracked up," says Robert Eaton, the U.S. director of marketing for Ski France International . Chamonix's immensity also makes it budget friendly. Value Holidays (800/558-6850, valhol.com) is dangling the lowest price here: $689 in January and late March for round-trip transatlantic air and a seven-night stay at Hotel Croix Blanche, which makes up for its smallish rooms by being centrally located-only a few minutes' walk from the Savoy lift. Two other travel companies offer similar packages at the Croix Blanche: Holidaze Ski Tours (800/526-2827, holidaze.com) for $750 (a price that does not include transfers), and Adventures on Skis for $814. SkiEurope (800/333-5533, ski-europe.com) offers a $798 rate for the bright, airy Hotel Pointe Isabelle, which is two stars but feels nicer; almost all of its 39 rooms have balconies. Central Holidays (800/935-5000, centralh.com), meanwhile, weighs in with a $969 rate for two three-star lodgings: Hotel Les Aiglons and Hotel Le Morgane; an extra $137 buys you dinner every night at both facilities. The latter hotel is particularly pleasant, featuring a large relaxation center with a pool, Turkish bath, and sauna.

A six-day ski pass is $156, though an additional $30 buys you a pass that accesses all of Mont Blanc's surrounding resorts.

3. Courmayeur, Italy

Pass through the recently reopened Mont Blanc Tunnel from Chamonix and you end up in Courmayeur, another compelling Alps getaway. It's mellower than Chamonix, and quainter: old stone edifices, cobbled alleys, and shops stuffed with dried porcini mushrooms and fantastically shaped bottles of grappa flavored with the likes of raspberries, orange peels, coffee beans, and juniper. It's in Italy, and yet the restaurants reflect the close proximity to their Swiss neighbors, serving items like fondue. (Try the ubiquitous crepe stands, which sell the fresh confections for around $1.50.) The skiing is pretty impressive, too: over 7,300 feet of vertical on largely intermediate and expert terrain, much of it set alongside spectacular Alpine glaciers and pinnacles. Europe's highest cable car-modestly called the "eighth wonder of the world"-is accessible about four miles outside of town and is well worth the journey; it soars for more than a mile above Geant Glacier on its way to Chamonix.

SkiEurope offers a seven-night $730 air-and-land package, January and late March, at the two-star Hotel Select, which has 17 austere rooms but is only a two-minute walk to the lifts; it's a good deal for people who are there for the slopes, not to lounge in a room. Central Holidays will pack you off to the three-star Hotel Croux for $934-a rate that includes a six-day ski-lift pass (which costs about $150 at the resort).

4. Interlaken, Switzerland

Nestled between Lakes Brienz and Thun, this resort has long been known as a prime summer getaway. But Interlaken (literally, "between the lakes") has gained cachet among skiers with its affordability-there are abundant rooms because of its warm-season draw-and expansive terrain. Indeed, what pushed Interlaken over the top was the creation of the Jungfrau Top-Ski Region lift pass in 1991. Suddenly, skiers could take a mountain railway that linked Interlaken to a variety of ski areas above Grindelwald, opening a network of 100-plus miles of trails, some up to nine miles long. The rail is included in the price of a $182 pass, which makes it feasible to ski at a different resort every day for a week.

For $775, SkiEurope will fly you over and put you up for seven nights in the three-star Hotel Chalet Swiss-an old-style chalet, as the name promises, centrally located and with views of three mountain ranges-and throws in a seven-day car rental instead of providing the transfers. Adventures on Skis offers the spacious three-star Hotel Chalet Oberland (where the heated indoor swimming pool is plum after a day on the slopes) for $830 throughout January and $864 from February 1-March 22. Value Holidays makes the same hotel the centerpiece of its $899 package. And Central Holidays charges $809 for the three-star Hotel Crystal, which features a roof terrace with arresting views of the surrounding landscape; it's not as central as the Oberland, but it's only a five-minute walk from the town center.

Once again, please note that some of the prices we've cited apply only in January and the latter half of March; prices go up in February and early March, when Europeans head to the powder.

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20 Secret Bargains of Amsterdam

Wild and watery Amsterdam has long been a magnet for folks eager to live it up (sometimes light it up) in the town where almost anything goes. Others arrive to inhale the rich culture-to gaze at Van Goghs and Vermeers, cruise the historic canals, gorge on Gouda at the source, or-in the spring-visit the huge, yearly flower shows. And since the notoriously frugal locals just love to pinch their euros (E), food and drink bargains abound, affordable hotel rooms aren't hard to come by, and if you're game for bopping around town by bike (a very Dutch way to go), you can conquer this cool cosmopolitan village and still have change to spare. (Note: When calling Amsterdam from the U.S., first dial 011-31-20.) Also, at press time, E1 equaled about 98¢. Nice Package! Air/hotel combos are sometimes the cheapest way to get to Europe. Go-today.com (book online) regularly features round-trip airfare from many U.S. cities and three nights in a hotel from as low as $399 per person for two in winter and $499 in summer. IMTC-Pegasus (404/240-0949, imtc-travel.com) offers airfare plus three nights at a three-star hotel for $599 per person in winter and $845 for two nights from June to August. In April, typical rates from Icelandair (800/223-5500, icelandair.com) begin at $599 for two nights' hotel and airfare from several U.S. gateways. Local Intelligence Before leaving home, get briefed at 900/400-4040, 900/551-2512, holland.com/amsterdam/gb, goholland.com, or timeout.com. Once here, pick up the free What's On in Amsterdam at a VVV Tourism Information office. There's one across from Centraal Station, another in the station on Platform 2, a third in the Leidseplein square, and yet another at Schiphol Airport. Free at many shops and cafes, the pocket-size "iN 2 Amsterdam" has cool recommendations for food, drink, and fun. Available at bookstores and at the AUB ticket office at Leidseplein 26, the giveaway flier/magazine Shark has a more alternative focus (it's also online at underwateramsterdam.com). Schiphol play Getting into town from Amsterdam's well-designed airport couldn't be simpler: From the central hub of the airport's shopping plaza, trains leave every 15 minutes or less for the 15- to 20-minute ride into Centraal Station. Tickets are E2.95 ($2.90) one way, E5.22 ($5.10) round trip; you can also buy a strippenkaart here (E5.67/$5.55), good for seven rides on all public transportation in Holland's major cities. For E7.95 ($7.80), the KLM bus, open to everybody, will drop you off at one of six downtown locations near major hotels; it runs regularly from 7 a.m. till 9:30 p.m. The snoozing Dutchman Quite a few smart little hotels right in the city center offer style and comfort at bargain rates. Overlooking the Singel canal, the family-run, eight-room Hotel Brouwer (Singel 83, 624-6358, fax 520-6264, hotelbrouwer.nl; no credit cards) feels like a slice of Vermeer; doubles (all with canal views) start at E80 ($78). In downtown's Negen Straatjes area is the ten-room Hotel Belga (Hartenstraat 8, 624-9080, fax 623-6862), with fine basic doubles with bath for E77 ($75). Tucked away in the Jordaan, the Hotel Acacia (Lindengracht 251, 622-1460, fax 638-0748, hotelacacia.nl) is a friendly little sliver of a spot that also offers nice rooms on its own houseboat; breakfast-included double rates are E80 to E110 ($78-$108) on the houseboat. In the (perfectly safe!) Red Light District, the cool Hotel Winston (Warmoesstraat 129, 623-1380, fax 639-2308, winston.nl) houses a rock club and has 67 rooms, many designed by different artists; doubles start at E71 ($69). On the scenic Prinsengracht canal, doubles with private bath begin at E80 ($78) or without at E60 ($59) at the charming 11-room Hotel Prinsenhof (Prinsengracht 810, 623-1772, fax 638-3368, xs4all. nl/~prinshof). You'll find a younger, hostel-like atmosphere at the Hans Brinker Budget Hotel (Kerkstraat 136-138, 622-0687, fax 638-2060, hans-brinker.com), where bunks start at E21 ($20) and doubles at E29 ($28). An easy bike ride from the center of town, the hip Hotel Arena (s-Graves-andestraat 51, 850-2410, fax 850-2415, hotelarena.nl) has 121 rooms decorated in an airy, minimalist style, and doubles from E102 ($100); also on the premises are a cafe/bar and a live-music venue. You may also book your hotel rooms via the tourist office's Amsterdam Reservation Center (reservations@amsterdamtourist.nl) for E2.72 ($2.65). Street nibbles Amsterdam also has plenty of cheap street eats. Given the large Middle Eastern population, falafel stands are plentiful and often very good. Try one of the Maoz Falafel branches, where E2.72 ($2.65) buys freshly deep-fried balls of mashed chickpeas served in a pita with lettuce and a wide assortment of sauces and toppings (Muntplein 1, across from the Mint clock tower; Reguliersbreestraat 45, right off the Rembrandtplein; Leidsestraat 85, off Leidseplein). Patates frites (french fries, with mayonnaise or curry sauce) are popular, and the best in town are sold daily from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. at the take-out window of the Vlaamse Friethuis (Voetboogstraat 33); the small size is E1.36 ($1.30), two can share the medium for E1.70 ($1.65), and sauce is E.45 (44¢). To really go Dutch, get fresh Hollandse Nieuwe haring ("new Dutch herring") at street stands throughout the city. Two reliable vendors of this marinated delicacy, served on a roll with onion and relish for about E1.58 ($1.55), are found on the Westermarkt (beneath the Westerkerk) and on the Koningsplein (by the flower market). Basic brown One of the most traditional ways to drink and eat in Holland is at one of the city's charming, classic, candlelit bruine kroegen ("brown cafes"), whose pub grub is basic but often quite good. One of the best in town is Het Molenpad (Prinsengracht 653, 625-9680), where entrees top out at about E11.80 ($11.55). Head to locally popular Moeder's Pot (Vinkenstraat 119, 623-7643), in the Jordaan, for hearty Dutch fare with entrees from E3.85 ($3.70). De Prins (Prinsengracht 124, 624-9382) is cheery, popular, and known for good food, jovial crowds, and a canalside terrace; main courses begin at around E11 ($10.75). Finally, head to the tiny Cafe Gollem (Raamsteeg 4, 626-6645) to sample any of over 200 Dutch and Belgian beers from a couple of bucks a pop. Classic noshes Some typically Dutch edibles can be had very cheaply. You can't visit Holland and not sample its cheeses, and at the pleasantly pungent Kaaskamer (Runstraat 7, 623-3483), they'll make you a broodje (fresh baguette with cheese or meat) for about E3 ($2.95). Pannekoeken (large crepes with cheese, meat, or sweets) are a lunchtime favorite, the best of them served up near the Rijksmuseum at a spot called Le Soleil (Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 56, 622-7147), from E3 to E8 ($2.95-$7.80). The coolest noshing nook may well be the centrally located Cafe de Jaren (Nieuwe Doelenstraat 20, 625-5771), a soaring grand cafe where Amsterdam hipsters, students, and regular folk stop for snacks. Try a soup and sandwich for about E6 ($5.85). Dikes and bikes You won't be in Amsterdam for more than a minute before noticing how everyone zips around via bicycle. It's really the best option given the city's compact size, narrow streets, and flat topography. And while the famous free white bikes are gone, talks are in the works to bring them back. In the meantime you can rent your own fiets (pronounced "feets") at Frederic Rent-A-Bike (624-5509) on the leafy Brouwersgracht. Here you'll find the best value in town-just E10 ($10) a day or E40 ($39) per week. Top cheap shop Imagine a Kmart fashioned by glam hotelier Ian Schrager and you've got HEMA, the Netherlands' fabulously stylish bargain department store. The best branch in Amsterdam is located on the lower level of the Kalvertoren shopping center (Kalverstraat 212, 422-8988) and is full of inexpensive but smartly designed housewares, clothing, toiletries, and even food and wine. Examples: toothpaste E.88 (85¢), travel alarm clock Z4.50 ($4.40), cool black long-sleeve T-shirt E9 ($8.80). Concerted efforts Each week there are free lunchtime concerts at both the Muziektheater (called the "Stopera"), home to the Opera House (Waterlooplein 22, 551-8189, muziektheater.nl), and at the Concertgebouw (Museumplein, 675-4411, concertgebouw.nl), the city's classical music grand dame. Many of the city's older churches, such as the Westerkerk and the Noorderkerk, also host concerts for around E3.25 to E6.50 ($3.20-$6.53). Pick up fliers and schedules at the AUB Office at Leidseplein 26 (621-1311), where you can also buy tickets for as little as E5 ($4.90) to nearby rock venues such as the Melkweg (Lijnbaansgracht 234a, 531-8181, melkweg.nl) and the Paradiso (Weteringschans 6-8, 626-4521, paradiso.nl). Cruising the canals While there's no shortage of glass-topped canal-boat tours plying Amsterdam's waterways, the best may be the Museumboot (530-1090), with a live guide and stops at city monuments; you can climb on and off from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. year-round. An all-day ticket costs E13.50 ($13.20), which also gets you up to half off at the major museums. Board at the Anne Frank House, Centraal Station, or five other locations. From April to October, there's a canal tour conducted in English by the St. Nicolaas Boat Club on a smaller, open-air boat; you can bring along your own beer and snacks. For E9.08 ($8.90), you get historical and sometimes dishy commentary on life in this liberal town. Reserve at the Boom Chicago bar on the Leidseplein, or at 530-7306. Pass it up If you're planning to cram in many activities during a short stay, invest in the Amsterdam Pass, which for E26 ($25) for a one-day pass, E36 ($35) for a two-day pass, or E46 ($45) for a three-day pass, grants passage on all trams, buses, and the Metro; a canal-boat tour; and free entry into almost all major museums, including the Rijksmuseum, the Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art, and the cool Amsterdam Historical Museum. It also gets you a few free snacks and discounts on many other attractions and meals. Buy it at the main Amsterdam Tourist Office (VVV) in front of Centraal Station, or at branch offices on the Leidseplein and at the airport. If you're under 26, get unlimited admission to many museums and discounts for other events with the Cultural Youth Pass, E11 ($10.75) at the Amsterdams Uit Buro (AUB) office at Leidseplein 26 (621-1311). Walk this way Another cheap and interesting way to explore the city is through Mee in Mokum, a nonprofit group of lifelong Amsterdammers who guide walking tours through the city center, telling their own stories as well as pertinent local facts. A two-hour stroll through the Jordaan, the city center, or other itineraries costs just E1.82 ($1.80); reserve at 625-1390. Tours are hosted year-round, but call ahead to book an English-speaking guide. Brew review At the Heineken Brewery (Stadhouderskade 78, 523-9666), daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. except Monday, "The Heineken Experience" leads you through the beer-making experience (you even get to ride along like a bottle waiting to be capped!). Though no longer free, it's still a great deal for E5 ($4.90), especially considering all the suds you get to swill at the end. Park it here The Vondelpark, a sprawling green expanse right off the city center, is where all of young Amsterdam comes to sunbathe, rollerblade, and be seen. Stop at one of the many local Albert Heijn supermarkets and put together an impromptu picnic. Rent in-line skates at the Rent-A-Skate (Vondelpark 7, 664-5091; E5/$4.90 per hour, all day for E15/$14.70) inside the park's southwest entrance by the Amstelveensweg, catch a free concert or performance at the park's open-air theater during the summer, and visit the llamas in their own grassy pasture. Pause for tea (E1.36/$1.30) and a snack at the popular Blauwe Theehuis (Vondelpark 5, 662-0254) or perch on the patio of the Cafe Vertigo (attached to the Filmmuseum) and mingle with Amsterdam's attractive set. Artful maneuvers In the town that spawned Rembrandt and inspired Van Gogh, there's a thriving gallery scene, and on Saturdays, several host show openings with free wine and/or beer. Many of Amsterdam's best contemporary galleries-the Torch Gallery, De Praktijk, AYACS, and the Huis Marseille-are located in or near the Jordaan neighborhood. For a listing of openings, pick up the bimonthly flier Exhibitions Amsterdam Tentoonstelling Agenda at any gallery, or at the very useful AUB Ticket Office at Leidseplein 26 (621-1211). Or check online at akka.nl/agenda. Market economy A couple of famous flea markets are worth a visit. The best known is on the Waterlooplein (9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily except Sunday), where you can pick up bargains on military gear, clothing, kooky memorabilia, and all manner of tchotchkes. For more everyday purchases (from fresh fish to jogging suits to CDs), you can try your luck at the Albert Cuyp Markt, on the Albert Cuyp Straat (9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. daily except Sunday) in the De Pijp neighborhood, south of the city center. Those into antiques, linens, and vintage clothing would do well to riffle through the stalls on Monday morning at the Noordermarkt. If organic food is your thing, ogle the tasty wares of Holland's farmers Saturday mornings (9 a.m.-3 p.m.) at the Boerenmarkt on the Noordermarkt. For used books, don't miss the cool Boekenmarkt, every Friday on the Spui square, with lots of English-language and arty titles. Finally, if you're lucky enough to be here on April 30, the entire city turns into a bustling, partying flea market to celebrate Queen Beatrix's birthday. Thank God it's Sunday One of the coolest nights to be out and about is Sunday, when you can do the town without paying through the nose. The very popular Club Vegas convenes every Sunday at the Club Winston, and if you dress "Vegas glam" you can get in for a mere E2.27 ($2.20), E4.53 ($4.40) if you're a frump. Out on the southwest edge of the city, in the recently restored Olympic Stadium, is Vakzuid, a hip restaurant that also hosts a cool Sunday-afternoon club called "The Couch," where you can lounge, drink, and groove to live DJs for no cover. This is also the night to join the festive fray of gay and straight students and hipsters at De Trut (Bilderdijkstraat 165, 612-3524), with cover E1.50 ($1.45) and beers E.91 (90¢); doors open at 11 p.m.-get there early. Collegiate types can dance for next to nothing any night of the week at Dansen bij Jansen (Handboogstraat 11, 620-1779), a disco for students only (bring I.D.), where cover costs range from E1.50 to E3.50 ($1.45-$3.45) depending on the event and the night. Virtual Amsterdam Keep in touch cheaply at Europe's biggest Internet cafe, the 24-hour easyEverything at Reguliersbreestraat 22 by the landmark Tuschinski cinema. For E2.27 ($2.20), you get an hour's worth of e-mail and Internet (there's a smaller branch at Damrak 33, near Centraal Station). But De Waag cafe (Nieuwmarkt, 422-7772) offers free Internet access and lots more character, housed as it is in Amsterdam's castlelike fifteenth-century former gatehouse. Counting your Euros To get your hands on some local currency, using ATMs is convenient, but rather than get socked with charges from your bank back home, stop instead at the GWK office (627-2731) at Centraal Station, where you'll get the best rate in town. It also offers hotel booking, traveler's- check cashing, and phone cards.

Gay lodging that charms, and unites

A simple fact about specialty travel: Gay people travel different from straight people. Gay and lesbian travelers usually like to meet other gays on the road, for reasons of security and comfort, if not to simply hang out with similar people. A booming hospitality industry has blossomed for this highly valued, double-income-no-kids market. In fact, luxury hotel chains like the W, Kimpton, Kempinski, and Intercontinental have gone out of their way to create gay and lesbian advertising campaigns to lure gay travelers to their properties. But for the frugal traveler, an old mainstay of the gay travel world is your best bet for cheap sleeps: the gay-owned B&B. They are ubiquitous, friendly, fun, and the best way to tap into the local gay community when traveling. And they can be half the price of a comparable hotel room. But since gay B&Bs are small operations with limited advertising funds and are usually run out of people's homes, it's often hard to find out about them. But you'd be surprised how omnipresent gay B&Bs are--I've discovered some in spots like South Dakota and Arkansas, even Tijuana, Quito, and Latvia. A gay B&B in an out-of-the-way spot can often mean the difference between being completely on your own or meeting other gay people, travelers and locals alike. Probably the most comprehensive site for digging up gay and lesbian B&Bs is Purple Roofs (purpleroofs.com). Here may be the only place you'll discover hard-to-find properties like the only lesbian guesthouse in India ($20 a night), or a gay-owned boutique hotel in the center of Marrakech starting at $35 a night, or a gay-owned B&B in Rio also for $35 a night. (Having said that, most of the listings are in North America.) And Purple Roofs is the only place that lists scads of gay B&B discounts under their Specials section--like 25 percent off room rates during low seasons, or 50 percent off of a third night stay. Also check out Rainbow Destination's B&B directory site guesthouses.net. There aren't as many listings as Purple Roofs, and some are straight-owned and over $100 a night, but you can still dig up some great finds here--like the Inn at Coyote Mountain in Costa Rica, a luxurious and remote hacienda, for $99 a night; Or the 18-24 James in Cairns, Australia--a 26-room resort with pool, sauna, gym, and spa--starting at just $55 a night. Two other gay B&B directory sites are sleepgay.com and gaybandb.com. The first is lists 86 international B&B's and the second site 100, but sleepgay.com gives prices and profiles of each property, while gaybandb.com simply links you to each B&B's web site directly. As for finding gay B&Bs in the U.K., try pinkuk.com/tourism/B_B.asp and for Australia and New Zealand try inthepink.com.au. Beyond the B&B Not a B&B person? No problem. You can easily do a home swap with other gay travelers as well--where you trade your domicile with another traveler for a period of time (or choose to host someone in return). Anything from studios to cabins to mansions all over the world are listed, and members simply set up arrangements between themselves as to when and what will be swapped, and best of all, you can home trade as much as you like for free once you've joined. The most extensive gay home swapping network is the GFN Home Exchange Club (nearly 1,500 listings at gfn.digsville.com; $44.95 for a 1 year membership)--they guarantee you'll find a home exchange partner in one year, or the next year is free. Or try the well-established Mi Casa Su Casa (nearly 200 listings at gayhometrade.com; $60 for a 3 year membership), in business since 1992; or the UK-based Home Around the World (350 listings at homearoundtheworld.com; $70 for 1 year), which specializes in European homes and offers travel insurance, flight and hotel discounts, and online bulletin boards. Don't feel like forking over the membership fee? Two services--the excellent One World One Family (nearly 80 listings at oneworldonefamily.com) and the relatively new Gay Home Exchange (19 listings at gayhomexchange.com)--offer free memberships--but you get what you pay for in terms of quantity of listings. Or you simply camp it up! Gay campgrounds and RV parks are multiplying like crazy around the world, and offer a down-home way to save money and socialize at the same time. Surf to Gay Campers (gaycampers.com) for over 100 listings in 12 countries of rural getaways where you can bring your own tent or stay in cabins for nominal fees. Gay Camp USA (campgayusa.com) lists over 75 gay and gay-friendly campsites across North America (and one in England), all for low rates, and some even offer work-exchange for camping on the property--now that's budget living! If you don't like to go camping without your microwave, Rainbow RV (rainbowrv.com) is the largest GLBT RV/Camping club in North America. For a membership of $12.95 per year, you get discounts to select gay campgrounds, an online newsletter, a gay campground directory, and invitations to gay RV rallies and events. Also check out the California-based non-profit gay RV club Traveling Our Way (travelingourway.org), with 230 members and membership of $20 a year. So be it B&B, home swap, camping, or in an RV, there is no reason gay travelers should have to pay anymore than anyone else to have a great vacation--you just need to know where to look.

Riding the Alaska Marine Highway

Here's a travel delay you don't expect: whale jams. One day, in southeast Alaska's Inside Passage, a ship of the Alaska Marine Highway-or just call it "the ferry" like Alaskans do-got stopped by a whale jam. The Wrangell Narrows are, like the name says, narrow. They're so narrow, in fact, that cruise ships can't get through them. The Alaska Marine Highway's pride, the Columbia, at 418 feet, is the biggest ship to navigate them. Problem was, that day, nearly 200 humpback whales had chosen the same time to stop in the Narrows to feed. Whales always have the right of way. The ship stopped, and a jazz quartet set up on the Columbia 's deck to play while the whales went about their business of being whales. Not a single passenger complained about the six-hour delay. Meet the seagoing bus The Alaska Marine Highway serves as coastal Alaska's bus system. It runs nine ships to 33 ports, from Bellingham, Washington, to Dutch Harbor in the Aleutians, and it's the longest ferry system in the world-its listing as a National Scenic Byway (the first waterway so honored; scenicbyways.org) tripled the total length of the byway program. Now for the deal: The ferry goes to exactly the same places as the cruise ships in Alaska do-and more-at a fraction of the price. You can spend a full day on the ferry, seeing the best the state has to offer, for under $50. You can travel the length of southeast Alaska for as little as $152 (Prince Rupert to Skagway). The Alaska Marine Highway's main run is in the calm, sheltered waters of the Inside Passage, where clouds and mist cover waterfalls that splash down hundreds of f eet. This is a 1,500-mile stretch of fjord, glacier, and mirror-still inlets framed by thickly treed mountains that come right to the water's edge. Bald eagles are the white spots on the highest branches. Riding on the Alaska Marine Highway is completely flexible. Most southeast towns have daily ferry service, sometimes two a day, so you can make the trip on your own schedule, stopping to walk in the rain forest or just soaking up local culture in the lively, friendly towns along the way. You can hop off, stay a few days, and then hop on the next ferry coming through. It's also a more intimate experience on the ships of the Alaska Marine Highway. The biggest of them only holds about 600 passengers. If you're looking for a little solitude with your scenery, this is the way to go. Even the crews love the ferry. They'll all turn out for whale sightings, and I've been on Alaska Marine Highway ships that have turned around to give passengers another look at a grizzly bear and her cubs fishing. Best of all, the ferry is how Alaskans themselves travel. Onboard, you're surrounded by Alaskans, and you become part of Alaskan life. There's no better way to get to know the state. Setting sail Every Friday evening (and Tuesday evenings from early June to mid-September), an Alaska Marine Highway ship pulls out of its southern terminus at Bellingham, Washington, headed for points north. Behind the ship is the giant cone of Mount Baker; ahead is the famed Inside Passage of Alaska. The first step to any voyage on the Alaska Marine Highway is to get the sailing schedule (800/642-0066, alaska.gov/ferry). In addition to the trunk run starting in Bellingham, there are dozens of shorter routes, ships constantly running to link Alaska's towns. The schedule is broken down by month, and by north- or southbound ships. Pick your city and departure day, then see what the possibilities are. Book tickets by phone or online. It's the most customizable cruise you coul d ever take. Once you're on the ship, all you have to do is sit back and be amazed. Home onboard The ships of the Alaska Marine Highway are working ships; they're comfortable but basic. There are coin lockers ($1, quarters only), as well as public showers, rest rooms, and vending machines for quick snacks. Although you won't get the endless buffet of a cruise ship, there's cafeteria-style dining on all ships, with meals for under $10. And the bigger ships also have full restaurants where the entr?es start around $15 (but the quality is better than at most onshore eateries). Try one of the seafood dishes on the Columbia-in season, the shrimp, bought from local fishermen, were in the ocean only hours before serving. There are cheaper options. Passengers can't cook onboard, but there's always piping-hot water available, perfect for instant soups and hot drinks, and there's nothing quite like a picnic on deck. Pick up some bread and cheese from Mercato Italiano (1006 Harris Av e., right by the Alaska Marine Highway terminal in Bellingham), and live the good life. There's plenty of time between stops to explore the ship. Follow the route by checking out the GPS display near the purser's counter, or listen to a Forest Service naturalist presentation. There's an artist-onboard program in the works, which will feature native dances, carvers, and more. But in the end, although travelers come prepared with games and books to pass the time, most people simply end up looking out the windows. In addition to the whales-more than 500 humpbacks migrate along the ferry route-there are Dall porpoises, harbor seals, Steller sea lions, minke whales, orcas, black bears, and grizzly bears. Bald eagles are so common in Alaska that until 1952 there was actually a bounty on them. More than a quarter of a century of traveling on the ferry has left me with this as the best description: The scenery unrolls like a classic Chinese landscape painting, with brush strokes by Tarzan. Nights on the ship Alaska is the land of the midnight sun. But when the dark does come, Alaska's beauty deepens to moonlight glinting off glaciers, more stars than you ever knew existed, and the glowing-green, flowing curtain of the northern lights. You have several options for sleeping onboard. The cheapest-it's free-is simply to camp out. On the Columbia and Matanuska, you can pitch a tent right out on deck (use duct tape for tent stakes-and with a big roll of duct tape, you'll make fast friends among other, less prepared campers). Each ship also has a solarium with lounge chairs, popular for longer runs. The solariums are heated and protected on three sides. I've spent perfectly comfortable nights there, wrapped in my sleeping bag, while the ships have gone through major winter storms. The last camping option is the indoor forward lounge, with airplane-style chairs. Technically it's against the rules to stake out spots in the forward lounges, but claims are usually respected. If you want some privacy, all of the Alaska Marine Highway ships (except the Aurora, Bartlett, and LeConte) have staterooms, comparable in comfort to budget-cruise staterooms. When you book the cabin, you're booking the whole thing-in other words, it costs the same for one person to sleep in a two-berth (bunk beds) cabin as it does for two. Rates change by the number of nights, as well as cabin size (two- or four-berth), facilities (private bath or no), and location (inside or outside). For example, a two-berth, outside cabin with bath, Bellingham to Skagway, runs $320; two-berth, inside cabin, no bath, is $276, saving you $44. And remember again that those rates are for the entire cabin and stay the same even if more than one person occupies it. If you like the idea of sleeping inside in a private room but want something cheaper, book trips on the Kennicott, which has "roomettes" (only $63 for an inside, two-berth roomette from Prince Rupert to Seward, for example). They're absolutely basic: a bed that folds down, and a chair/table combination that converts into another bed. That's it. But they are a space to call home. You can rent bedding from the purser for $7, or bring your own. It's best to book staterooms as soon as you have your travel dates set. However, if the ship's rooms are booked, don't despair: Just go on the standby list. A lot of people get accommodated this way. Must-see stops Port calls along the route aren't really long enough to see much-a two-hour stop is a long one-so you need to choose ahead of time where you want to stop and get off. That's the best thing about the frequent ships of the Alaska Marine Highway: Get off one ship, get on another a day (or a few days) later. They give you time to linger. Here are a few of the highlights along the way. Ketchikan, the first stop in Alaska, has the best totem-pole collection anywhere. Start at the Totem Heritage Center (907/225-5900; buy the $10.95 combo tic ket, which also includes admission to the fish hatchery), with its tremendous collection of century-old poles. One more great thing about Ketchikan: There's a grocery store directly across the street from the ferry terminal, so you can stock up for the onward trip. Most cruise ships pass by the small southeastern towns, but the ferry makes them accessible. Wrangell, near the mouth of the Stikine River, is southeast's playground. Use it as a base for river trips (a quarter billion migrating birds use the Stikine) and for days at Anan Bear Reserve, a rare spot where black and brown bears share a stream so clogged with salmon in July and August that you see more fish fins than water. Alaska Vistas (907/874-3006, alaskavistas.com) has the best deals on river and bear trips. Juneau, the state capital, has an inconvenient ferry dock-13 miles from town, a $30 taxi ride. But it's only half that far to Mendenhall Glacier, the most accessible chunk of ice in southeast Alaska, a ti ny finger of the Juneau Icefields (which are a bit larger than Rhode Island). There's a free, daily guided hike, starting from the visitors center, that will give you great views of the glacial face. In Sitka, don't miss the beautifully restored Bishop's House (admission $3), the oldest original Russian structure in Alaska. Each June, the town hosts the famous Sitka Summer Music Festival (907/747-6774, sitkamusicfestival.org). Haines and Skagway are only a few miles apart by sea, but because of the mountains, they are more than 300 miles apart by road. Go to Haines for the Chilkat River and easy access to the Tatshenshini-Alsek Park, part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site that puts Glacier Bay to shame. Skagway, only 23 blocks long and four blocks wide, was the starting point for the Klondike Gold Rush of 1898. It still has that boomtown vibe. Other popular stops include Petersburg, a busy fishing port that's home to hundreds of bald eagles, and the tiny town of Tenakee S prings, a weekend hotspot for Juneauites, who come to soak in the hot springs (free; but because of the minerals, take off all your jewelry before getting in). Catch the ferry from Juneau on Friday, overnight in Tenakee, and be back in Juneau on Saturday. Options Most passengers who get on the ships in Bellingham are headed for the interior of Alaska via the road links at Skagway and Haines. However, if you're not continuing on north or staying on the Alaska Marine Highway for the weeklong round trip, you're in for a very expensive one-way flight back home. But there is a fantastic option. Do what the boutique cruise ships do: Start your journey in Juneau (by flying to Juneau from Seattle), and then travel a loop around the northern end of the Inside Passage, utilizing a number of ships passing through that service different stops along the way. You can spend a week or a month on this route-it's up to you-hopping various Alaska Marine Highway ships. One itinerary is to go f rom Juneau to Sitka ($32); from there, head north to Haines ($50) and continue on to Skagway ($21 more). Then, take a southbound ship as far as Wrangell ($96) before finishing the loop with a ride to Petersburg through the Wrangell Narrows ($22) and a final trip to Juneau ($50). Check the ferry schedules for other options. By starting the trips in Juneau, you also save on the ferry ride, as you skip the expensive Bellingham-Ketchikan section. A daily loop ferry leaves Juneau at 7 a.m., headed for Haines and Skagway ($74, as long as you stay on the same vessel round trip). This lets you see both towns, as well as the Lynn Canal, a prime whale feeding ground and home to a colony of Steller sea lions. It's like a Cliffs Notes on Alaska: all the good stuff in no time at all. There are a lot of whale-watching trips out of Juneau; most of them go to Icy Strait. But the ferry has its own, much cheaper trip through Icy Strait: the one-day round trip to Pelican (every other Sunday, $74). I've seen upward of 20 whales in a day on this trip-including humpbacks breaching, their entire 40-foot bodies coming out of the water in a movement that seems impossibly slow. Quite simply, there is no more scenic ferry ride in all of southeast Alaska. Pelican itself is the quintessential one-street town: There's a bar, a public shower, a store, and the fish cannery. It's more like a movie set than real life, but then you see the dramatic views of Lisianski Inlet and the towering Fairweather Range, and you know Hollywood could never make anything this beautiful. Bargains The ferry does the bulk of its business during the summer months. If you're willing to travel off-season, there are some fantastic deals. In October, the Alaska Marine Highway offers a $500 unlimited travel pass valid for travel from Nov. 1 to Mar. 31; you can also get 25 percent off cabin rates in the colder months. As if that weren't enough, from Oct. 1 to Apr. 30, drivers who accompany a vehicle tr avel free. Don't let the idea of Alaska in winter put you off: The state is quiet and incredibly beautiful at that time, returned to itself after the tourist rush of summer. If all you're after is a gorgeous boat ride, this can be the best time to go. Passengers with disabilities can get a pass that allows discounted travel on all ships. However, you must apply in advance for the pass, and the application fee is $25. There are a number of rules and regulations that go along with this fare, so call the Alaska Marine Highway for details. All the ships have elevators except the Bartlett, which has a stair-climber. Passengers over the age of 65 and those with an Alaska Marine Highway disability pass can travel year-round on the LeConte, Bartlett, Aurora, and Tustemena for 50 percent off the regular adult fare. This rate is good for passage only, and only in Alaska ports, but these four ships make some interesting short-hop runs. Prices quoted in this article are for adult passag e; kids under 12 go at half fare. Connections For those on the trunk run, it's cheaper to fly into Seattle, where all major carriers stop, than Bellingham. Catch the Airporter bus (360/380-8800) from the Seattle airport to Bellingham for $34 one way, $59 round trip. Alaska Airlines (800/252-7522, alaskaair.com) is your only choice for flying into the Alaska Marine Highway's ports, such as Juneau. Plan ahead-their fares change almost minute by minute-and check their Web site for special offers. The Alaska Marine Highway has a secondary southern terminus in the Canadian town of Prince Rupert, at the mouth of the Skeena River. The town has a road link to British Columbia's interior and is also a terminus for BC Ferries (250/386-3431, bcferries.com), which runs 38 ships to 47 Canadian ports, including Victoria and Vancouver. You can bypass Bellingham by catching northbound Alaska Marine Highway ferries from Prince Rupert. Only two Alaskan Inside Passage towns have ro ads out: Haines and Skagway connect to the Alaska Highway. Both are beautiful towns, but the Haines Highway may be the most perfect stretch of road ever made-wide, gently curved, running between glaciers and mountain peaks. It's fairly expensive to take a car onboard the Alaska Marine Highway, and it requires planning, especially in the summer. Spaces can fill up, although you can often get accommodated on standby. Just as an example, the rate for a compact car, Bellingham to Skagway, is $736. Another option is just to stay on the Alaska Marine Highway for the run back south. The weeklong round-trip run does not repeat all the same scenery-south-bound ships stop at Sitka, on the outer edge of the Alexander Archipelago. For travel to other points in Alaska, there's a twice-monthly Alaska Marine Highway run from Juneau to Seward, across the Gulf of Alaska ($177). Once you're in Seward board the Alaska Railroad (800/544-0552, akrr.com) for trips to Anchorage ($98 round trip ) and Denali ($125 one way from Anchorage), or link up to more Alaska Marine Highway ships to points west-including Kodiak Island, home of the world's largest bears, and Dutch Harbor, so far out in the Aleutians that it's on roughly the same longitude as Tonga. The Alaska Marine Highway opens up more scenery than all of the state's roads combined. If you want to see the real Alaska, the best of Alaska, this is the only way to go.

Fort Lauderdale: Where the Deals Are

If you've ever driven through Fort Lauderdale, chances are you've experienced Florida's second largest metro area as an endless sprawl of strip malls, car dealerships, and freeways, with some standard-issue suburban tracts stirred in. But discerning visitors (plus a tiny remnant of the once-notorious spring-break hordes) in search of an ideal warm getaway know Fort Lauderdale's secret: Buried amid it all is a highly engaging "vacation corridor" that provides all the fun, relaxation, and stimulation you could ask for. This corridor - which resembles the letter L laid on its back - is formed by Las Olas Boulevard, running east to the sea and the palm-fringed beach from the highrises of downtown, then turning north along a two-mile north-south stretch of Highway A1A, hugging the beach and the Atlantic. This area includes not only plenty of surf, sand, shopping, dining, nightlife, and a slew of fabulous museums and performing arts venues, but (at its upper tip, the north end of this stretch of beachfront A1A) also Lauderdale's largest concentration of budget lodgings, starting as low as $65 a room in high season, $33 in low. The "sleeping L" is the place to come for a modestly priced vacation that's more diverse and multilayered than any other in Florida. And as word gets out, as a holiday magnet it's catching up fast to Miami Beach, just a half hour south. South Beach in particular still gets most of the media hype, but in this writer's opinion, it's long on glitz and high prices while not measuring up to Fort Lauderdale in terms of cultural offerings, beach quality, budget options, and all-round accessibility - even the parking's less of a hassle. Beyond the sand Apart from its many beachy, watery pleasures-including superb boating on loads of scenic canals and waterways such as the New River and the famous Intracoastal Waterway - not only does Lauderdale have a pedestrian shopping/dining district (rare for Florida), but it's one of the state's prettiest; Las Olas Boulevard's tree-lined stretch of elegant, mostly Spanish-style buildings houses an ever-growing number of chic shops, galleries, cafes, and restaurants (often pricey but sometimes surprisingly affordable). At its westernmost end is the downtown Riverwalk Arts and Entertainment District, the site of a remarkable cluster of top-notch cultural institutions: a Museum of Art with everything from pre-Columbian treasures to today's cutting edge; a performing arts center with 500 events per year; a kid-popular Museum of Discovery and Science, including a 3-D IMAX theater, and the charming Old Fort Lauderdale Historical Museum. Outside this last, a lovely lane lined with live oaks and a handful of grand old homes leads to Riverwalk, a new shop-eat-and-play complex on the New River (stroll the winding brick walkway along its banks and take a cruise for $10.95; $5.95 for kids under 12). Just south of Las Olas' eastern end, the Swimming Hall of Fame makes for a fun morning visit. Farther afield, hardcore shoppers head west of downtown to the gargantuan Sawgrass Mills Mall (whose 350-plus stores include outstanding discount outlets) or the 80-acre Swap Shop (a kind of daily flea and farmer's market with a little bit of circus thrown in) - or south for some decent antiquing in the town of Dania's 150 consignment shops (just below the airport). Then of course there's always the Latin flavor and art deco jewels of the Miami area, about a half hour down the coast. Finally, not all of the surprises hereabouts are man-made. A wonderful place to appreciate the area's pristine beauty sits right on the A1A beachfront boulevard. The Hugh Taylor Birch State Recreation Area is a rambling preserve with lush virgin hammock woodlands, freshwater lagoons, picnic facilities overlooking the posh mansions along the Intracoastal, and several easy hiking trails. The Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Museum (W. Boundary Rd., Clewiston, 863/902-1113, seminoletribe. com/museum), deep in the Everglades about 90 minutes west of the beach on the Big Cypress Reservation, offers not only a look at the way of life of the much put-upon Seminole Indians, but also the flora and fauna of the swampy "river of grass" that covers most of South Florida. Lauderdale lodgings For the budget traveler, though, ground zero is a compact four-by-seven-block nabe at the top of our "sleeping L," bounded by A1A and the Intracoastal Waterway on the east and west, and Riomar and Vistamar Streets on the south and north respectively (many street names here end in mar, Spanish for "sea"). It's an ideal base - never more than four blocks from the beach, and a short drive from the browsing, grazing, and ogling of Las Olas. The properties here are pretty much cut from the same mold: simple, art deco-ish mid-last-century motels slung low around a small pool. Most, however, have gone out of their way to make their decent-size rooms as comfortable and attractive as possible, keeping original details (bathroom tiles, jalousie windows) and planting lush tropical palms and greenery. All offer on-site parking and no breakfast, though many have complimentary coffee or in-room coffeemakers. Of the six that follow, all but the last are members of "Superior Small Lodgings," a program established to keep motel standards up (get a full listing from the local tourism folks; see box). Keep in mind, too, that low season is generally mid-May through October and high season is the rest of the year; at some properties an "extra-high season" runs February to April. First stop: the three-story, salmon-and-teal Sans Souci at the Beach (618 N. Birch Rd., 954/564-4311, fax 954/564-4472, sanssoucimotel.com), whose 20 rooms all come with fridge and microwave for $45 in low season and $65 in high. Run (like many properties down here) by escaped French Canadians, La Lorraine (2800 Vista Mar St., 954/566-6490, fax 954/568-1168, lalorraineinc.com) has clean, modern units from $33 in summer to a high of $69 in winter; bonuses include an outdoor Jacuzzi, minigolf, and barbecue. The Winterset (2801 Terramar St., 954/564-5614, fax 954/565-5790, thewintersetmotel.com) looks modest from the outside, yet boasts two swimming pools surrounded by over 39 varieties of palms and 29 cheerful if slightly dated rooms, which rent for $50 from April to mid-December ($60 to $70 the rest of the year). The smaller, more intimate Worthington (543 N. Birch Rd., 954/563-6819, fax 954/563-6819) has 14 standard-issue but pleasant motel rooms on three stories around a heated kidney-shaped pool; complimentary weekend cocktails are a nice touch. Rates are $45 mid-April to mid-December, $65 otherwise. A personal favorite is the Sea Chateau Resort Motel (555 N. Birch Rd., 954/566-8331, fax 954/564-2411), its bubbly pink-and-white art deco exterior recalling 1950s Havana. The 17 units are beautifully decked out with chintz drapes and iron canopy beds - all for $45 from May to mid-December, then $55 until the end of January and $70 through April. If you simply must stay right on the ocean, head for the Beach Plaza Hotel (625 A1A/N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., 800/451-4711, fax 954/537-9358), which charges a surprisingly low $49 from April to December 21; at other times, rates oscillate between $69 and $99. There's a gorgeous pool area, too, and large pastel rooms brightened up with paisley spreads and cheerful touches. But perhaps the very best lodging option isn't a motel at all, but an apartment, and the premier local source is Leisure Link International (888/801-8808, fax 305/716-9236, leisurelinkintl.com), which rents out scores of five-star resort condos in South Florida at unbeatable rates. Case in point: a huge two-bedroom, two-bath unit on the coast with a big-screen TV and balconies, sleeping up to six people for $155 a night in low season; for families or friends traveling together, that can work out to as low as $25 per person (high season is a bit pricier at $229, but for six people, it still works out to $38 a head, comparable to any motel hereabouts). A similar apartment in the lush Bonaventure area near Sawgrass Mills (about 20 minutes by car from the beach) goes for about $115 to $189, and a one-bedroom unit sleeping four goes for $65 to $118. Eats No longer the whitebread bore of yore, Fort Lauderdale's dining scene now offers a cosmopolitan selection of high-quality, reasonably priced restaurants right on or a short drive away from A1A and East Las Olas Boulevard. These eateries sling everything from good ol' meat loaf to cut-rate sushi - a dubious notion to some, but they haven't lost anyone yet at Tokyo Bowl (1720 S. Federal Hwy., 954/524-8200). The cheerful Japanese diner with a red-and-white Rising Sun color scheme has my local friend Eric coming in regularly for the $12.79 all-you-can-eat sushi-fresh and as artfully presented as any raw fish costing three times as much. Personally, I'm more into the big and hearty "Tokyo Bowls" ($3.79 to $4.29), like teriyaki chicken over rice. For cheap but great Italian, I grab a window seat overlooking the traffic on Sunrise at Big Louie's Pizzeria and Restaurant (1990 E. Sunrise Blvd. at Gateway Plaza, 954/467-1166; three more local branches), a friendly, diner-ish joint decked out in red-checkered tablecloths and Tiffany-style lamps. Here, $8.99 will literally stuff you with the likes of chicken parmigiana, spaghetti, garlic rolls, and salad; the less famished like Louie's hot and cold subs (around $5). For italiano with ocean views, head for the Ocean Drive Cafe (401 Ft. Lauderdale Beach Blvd., 954/779-3351), one of the admittedly few budget waterfront choices. Entrées (some with veggies and potatoes, others with pasta) start as low as $8.95 (steamed clams) but mostly average $10 to $12 (a 14-ounce T-bone). It's a little pricier than elsewhere in town, but then, you're sitting alfresco gazing at the ocean from a marble-topped bistro table lit by romantic oil lamps. You can keep the bill down by ordering from a goodly range of burgers, pizzas, salads, or sandwiches served with pasta salad and vegetables, all around $7. Just up A1A, Lulu's Bait Shack (17 S. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., 954/463-7425) also overlooks the water from a wild and crazy second-floor perch at Beach Place, another yupscale complex for shopping and shoveling it in. Free live bands most nights and tropical breezes set the stage for bayou zingers like the $10.95 "Cajun Sampler": a jumbo of gumbo, etouffee, jambalaya, and red beans and rice-more than you can down in one sitting; otherwise, entrees average about $9.95 (fried catfish with sides). Yeah, you can certainly find cheaper eats elsewhere, but not with live tunes and beachfront breezes. Get even more informal at World Famous Parrot Fun Food & Libation (911 Sunrise La., 954/563-1493, parrot lounge.com), tucked a block in from the beach just below Sunrise Boulevard (a couple of blocks' worth of surf shops, tattoo parlors, and pizza joints anchored by a 7-Eleven). This cozy, paneled pub draws lots of locals for Marlins games and three to five daily specials like flounder stuffed with crabmeat, plus rice pilaf and steamed veggies for $8.99 (also check out drink specials such as Wednesday's $3.75 margaritas). Las Olas Boulevard has plenty of great dining and lots of sidewalk tables - but usually at a premium. One exception is the venerable Floridian (1410 E. Las Olas Blvd., 954/463-4041), a rambling diner that draws a happening 24/7 crowd thanks to its prime location. It is virtually a symbol of frugal feeding in Fort Lauderdale. From breakfast (starting at $3.50) to overstuffed sandwiches and salad platters ($4 to $7) to hot combos served with potato and vegetables (from $5.95 for meat loaf), the food's fresh and well prepared, and the service is friendly and attentive (and some of those waitresses are live wires). More information Most major U.S. airlines fly into Fort Lauderdale International Airport. Thanks to stiff competition, you can sometimes find rates as low as $98 round-trip from New York, $118 from Chicago, and $198 from San Francisco (but only in the deeply off-season weeks). Even at other times, the price structure to "FLL" is one of the gentlest in the U.S. As in most of Florida, you're nada without wheels. From the national rental chains, typical subcompacts start around $200 a week in winter (at Enterprise, 800/736-8222), though prices can vary from day to day. For even better rates, try local outfits like Royal Rent-a-Car (954/768-0222), from $129.95 a week. Another fun and scenic way to get around is by water taxi (954/467-6677, water taxi.com), with scheduled service hitting most major waterfront stops for $7.50 one way, $14 round-trip, or $16 for an all-day pass. There's plenty more varied info-including quality budget lodgings listings-from the Greater Fort Lauderdale Convention and Visitors Bureau (800/356-1662, sunny.org).