Fort Lauderdale: Where the Deals Are

If you think you have to be paisans with a Corleone or Soprano to get something for nothing in New York City, then fuhgedaboudit! It doesn't take a made man to see the best of Gotham without it costing a dime, and you won't even have to whack anybody to do it. Real wiseguys know the secret to saving big dough in the Big Apple is to seek out all the free walking tours to some of the city's most famous attractions. So grab a seat on a stoop and take a look at these free tours that are fun for the whole,er, "family." Federal Reserve Bank of New York 33 Liberty St., Phone: 212/720-6130, newyorkfed.org Instead of spending money, why don't you spend 60 minutes looking at it--a lot of it. Located in the Financial District, the Fed's tour includes a look at the Gold Vault--five stories underground-- where $60 billion is held. Other exhibits? Officially, the Fed's role includes "formulating and executing monetary policy," but what that really means is they raise and lower interest rates and they act as the government's personal banker. By toying with the exhibit "Fed Works," tourists will get to take over for Mr. Greenspan and see if they could do his job better. Also tour guides take tourists through the five-year exhibit, "Drachmas, Dubloons and Dollars: The History of Money." Hosted by the Fed, "Drachmas" includes over 800 examples of the American Numismatic Society's collection of currency. At the end of the tour, you'll even get to pocket some cash-- too bad it's been shredded! The hour-long tours are held Mon-Fri, between 9:30 AM and 2:30 PM. Because the Fed hosts up to 30 thousand tourists a year, reservations are required for the tour. Central Park Central Park Conservancy, 14 E. 60th St., Tour hotline: 212/360-2726, centralparknyc.org If you hear anyone tell you to "get lost" or "take a hike" while in New York City, then this is the place to go. Central Park has been around for 150 years and is 843-acres (about six percent of Manhattan's total acreage) of escape from the big city. Before Central Park was designed as the first park entirely for the public, New Yorkers' only refuge from the city was in less-than-cheery cemeteries. To celebrate the park with something for everyone, the Central Park Conservancy, in partnership with the city's Department of Parks and Recreation, hosts six different volunteer-guided tours of the park on Wednesdays and weekends at various times. Browse the website and, depending on which tour you choose, you will get a chance to see the Sheep Meadow, which was originally intended as a military parade ground; Tavern on the Green (the restaurant) which was once home to Central Park's shepherd and sheep; or you can opt to spend time with geniuses William Shakespeare and Beethoven--or their famous sculptures anyways. Most tours last one hour and the guides have been trained by the Conservancy's resident historian, so you will be guaranteed to learn a few things on your stroll through Manhattan's urban oasis. Grand Central Station grandcentralterminal.com Opened it 1913, Grand Central is actually a terminal and not a station since trains terminate and originate from here. The newly-restored building is a magnificent nod to old New York while also playing host to over 150 thousand commuters every day. Whether it's due to Grand Central's grandiosity or because it's the site of so much activity, this site has several groups clamoring to give tours. Municipal Arts Society Phone: 212/935-3960, mas.org The Municipal Arts Society's tour of Grand Central has been running for 25 years, so it's a pretty good bet they won't get lost in this labyrinthine building. The tour is on every Wednesday at 12:30 PM, and lasts an hour. It's run by various local historians, and focuses especially on architectural design and details. Be prepared to crane your neck at the constellations on the terminal's ceiling. Tours meet at the Grand Central info booth. Grand Central PartnershipPhone: 212/883-2420, grandcentralpartnership.org/ Billing itself as "The Grand Tour," the Grand Central Partnership branches out from the famous terminal to the neighborhood surrounding it. The anecdotal tour is guided by "urban explorer, historian, and storyteller" Justin Ferate and touches on the Chrysler Building, the Daily News Building, and the original Lincoln Memorial. The 90-minute tour is every Friday at 12:30 PM, and meets across the street from the terminal in the Sculpture Court of the Whitney Museum on the corner of 42nd St. and Park Ave. Times Square Times Square Visitor's Center, 1560 Broadway, Phone: 212/869-1890, timessquarebid.org/ Even when Dick Clark's not presiding over New Year's Eve, Times Square is teeming with people. With two police precincts, 40 theaters, 12.5 thousand hotel rooms, and almost two million passer-bys each day, it is the overtaxed heart of Manhattan. With all this to cover, The Times Square Business Improvement District's tour picks its targets carefully--it's more of a walk an inch-stop-walk an inch-stop tour instead of a walking tour. The tour can last up to two hours and focuses on the old vs. new: from the history of landmark theaters where vaudevillians performed to the spectacle of massive Trinitron video screens. Its guides lead the way through the human traffic every Friday at noon at the Times Square Visitor's Center. Lower East Side Talking Street tours, 800/644-3545, talkingstreet.com/ If you were hoping to tour New York while taking part in a new use of technology and hobnobbing with celebrities, this definitely the walking tour for you--sort of. Talking Street's tour "The Lower East Side: Birthplace of Dreams," is the first-ever call-in cell phone tour, and is guided by LES native Jerry Stiller (George's dad on "Seinfeld," and real-life dad to Ben) with music by Irving Berlin and Eddie Cantor. Stiller takes you through the neighborhood where Easter European Jews immigrated, gangsters organized, and actors and artists strived. The tour works by having you call the 800-number above when you are at a selected stop. Then Stiller gives information about the site and directions to the next of 13 stops. The entire tour takes about an hour if you go from the first to last stop, and Stiller's audio segments are each under three minutes. The fun of the tour, however, is picking and choosing which sites appeal to you the most, and with a downloadable map from the website, it's easy to do. While the tour is free, it's important to note that regular cell phone charges do apply, so call when you have extra minutes to spend. Big Apple Greeters 1 Centre Street, Suite 2035, 212/669-8159, bigapplegreeter.org/ You want see New York like a real New Yorker would? You want to eat soul food in Harlem, see the Statue of Liberty for free, and maybe even explore those other boroughs outside of Manhattan? If yes, then Big Apple Greeters is the volunteer group for you. BAG's mission is to show that New York is a friendly city, and her denizens aren't so bad either. By contacting them in advance, BAG will pair you with a knowledgeable "greeter" that suits the kind of experience you want to have in the city. In addition, these ambassadors of goodwill give you a free one-day subway pass and show you how to navigate the city's public transportation system. Your visit with BAG can be as long or as short as you wish, and the only requirement is that you have two or more in your group. A few more If you STILL haven't gotten the compulsion to tour New York for free out of your system, here are a few more worth considering. Brooklyn Brewery 79 N. 11 St., Brooklyn, Phone: 718/486-7422, brooklynbrewery.com. Take a tour of the famous brewery and drink some free beer. How can you argue with that? Fridays between 6-10 PM, and Saturdays between noon and 5 PM. Trinity Churchyard 74 Trinity Pl., 212/602-0800, trinitywallstreet.org. Visit the famous graves of Alexander Hamilton and others, or look through the online database for ancestors before you go. Thurs., Sat. at noon. Bob Dylan Tour Greenwich Village, new-pony.com/tour.html. Finally, a self-guided walking tour of Dylan's New York for the uber-fan. A downloadable map and description of each site is online.

To our minds, San Francisco is one of the three top foodie cities in the US (along with New York and New Orleans). We've all heard about California cuisine, and the star chefs that are shaping the dining scene in the City by the Bay. But what about cheap food? Can one get good, interesting grub at an affordable price? Our expert gives a resounding "yes" to that question and reveals her picks for the best affordable food in town. The top ten Red's Java House Pier 30-32, Embarcadero at Bryant St., 415/777-5626, Closed for dinner unless there's an evening Giants game at nearby SBC Park The pickup trucks in the lot and the crusty old guys in coveralls are your first signs that Red's is no temple to fancy-schmancy California cuisine. Working-class joes in Harley-Davidson jackets fill most of the tables, though suits slumming it also visit this little shack in the shadow of the Bay Bridge. Hot dogs, burgers, chili, fries, and Budweiser are the orders of choice--unless you show up before 11 a.m. (3 p.m. on weekends), when a smattering of breakfast items are served. And since a double cheeseburger, fries, and a beer cost only $6.25, Red's qualifies as one of the best burger bargains in the city, with or without the million-dollar view. Chez Maman 1453 18th St., between Connecticut and Missouri Sts., 415/824-7166 Diners sit shoulder to shoulder at the counter of this lilliputian Potrero Hill bistro, where the chefs cheerfully toss salads, grill lamb sausages, and cook crepes just inches away. The stools are so close to the grill, in fact, that you won't know whether it's the heat of the fire or the Gallic charm of the chatty proprietor that's causing the warm glow. The small menu is solidly French: the goat cheese salad ($8), croque monsieur ($9), and mussels marinière ($12) would be right at home in a Parisian bistro. So would the French-speaking regulars, who gab with the staff while downing rocket-fuel espresso. El Tonayense Harrison St. between 19th and 20th Sts., Harrison St. at 22nd St. and Shotwell St. between 16th and 17th Sts Locals in the know stand on the sidewalk or perch on a concrete ledge next to a chain-link fence to eat some of the best (and most authentically Mexican) tacos in town, served from shiny silver trucks parked on semi-industrial blocks in the Mission. Since there's no menu--just a list of available meats, such as carne asada (grilled steak) and carnitas (braised pork)--it's useful to know that you can get these fillings in a taco, burrito, or torta (sandwich). Most passionate fans of El Tonayense are so devoted to the tacos--corn tortillas folded around juicy meat, hot or mild salsa, and a scattering of chopped onions and cilantro--that they've never even sampled the other dishes. Those with an average appetite could probably handle three tacos, but we wouldn't blame anyone for trying to eat just one more. It's Tops Coffee Shop 1801 Market St., between Valencia and Guerrero Sts., 415/431-6395 Shortly after this tiny, '50s-style diner in the Lower Haight opens at 8 a.m., haggard partygoers outnumber early risers by about two to one. They continue their flirtation with unhealthy living with a menu that contains, in addition to standard diner fare--buttermilk pancakes ($4.50), Denver omelettes ($7.75)--an entire section devoted to deep-fried sides such as beer-battered mushrooms ($3.95). Each orange-vinyl booth is equipped with a jukebox, but the stools at the counter provide you with the added entertainment of listening to the waitstaff describe their latest tattoos. Nirvana 544 Castro St., between 18th and 19th Sts., 415/861-2226 One hopes that the real nirvana isn't as loud as this Castro District restaurant, where the predominantly gay clientele flirt to the steady pulse of techno music. Dim lights and walls the color of blood oranges set a seductive scene, but the heated garden patio is the last word in romance. Big bowls of noodles (ramen, soba, or linguine), topped with ingredients such as pan-seared Thai-style chicken ($7.75), salmon chunks ($9.50), or sautéed spinach and tomatoes ($6.75), are a bargain; the same can't be said about the froufrou cocktails ($7-$8.50). Concoctions like Purple Rain--made with vanilla-flavor Stoli, pomegranate juice, and lemon juice--nevertheless disappear lickety-split at the bar, where revelers sometimes stand waiting two deep. Emmy's Spaghetti Shack 18 Virginia St., at Mission St., 415/206-2086 At the edge of the Mission, this dimly lit room decorated with old-fashioned aprons strung across a clothesline might seem an unlikely setting for San Francisco hipsters to wine and dine their dates. But, somehow, the juxtaposition of the faux corrugated tin roof, colorful artwork by local artists, and a DJ spinning groovy down-tempo music (Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays) works. Maybe the crowd is in a good mood because of the glasses of red wine on almost every table, but the vibe at Emmy's is unfailingly friendly. Enormous plates of spaghetti ($6, with meatballs $8.50) are by far the best deals. Consider sharing one with your honey, along with an appetizer like the winter-greens salad with beets and goat cheese ($8). Desserts, most around $7, are more expensive than you'd expect. Osha Thai Noodle Café 696 Geary St., at Leavenworth St., 415/673-2368 A young crowd fills this bright Tenderloin restaurant, but the food is much better than you'd expect from a place where you can stumble in until 3 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights. House music thrumming in the background sets the manic pace of the waitstaff, who ask for your order every few minutes until you've waded your way through the hundred or so items on the menu. To cut to the chase, order the tart and spicy larb ($6.50), a mix of ground chicken, pork, or beef with red and green onions, or the perfectly crisp yet tender spicy string beans, served with the same choice of meats ($6.95). Hang Ah Tea Room 1 Pagoda Pl. (a.k.a. 1 Hang Ah St.), off Sacramento St. between Stockton and Grant Sts., 415/982-5686 Although the freakish lime-green and tangerine walls suggest the restaurant was built during the Day-Glo '80s, Hang Ah is actually Chinatown's oldest dim sum parlor. Once you find this basement spot--down an alleyway next to a playground and tennis court--start sampling its wide variety of dim sum, the savory snacks that are popular for brunch in parts of China. Pork buns (softball-size puffs of rice dough surrounding juicy barbecued pork), deep-fried curried-beef rolls, translucent steamed shrimp dumplings, and pot stickers are particularly good choices. At around $2.50 per order, you can try them all. Dragon Well 2142 Chestnut St., between Steiner and Pierce Sts., 415/474-6888 Smartly dressed and preternaturally fit young locals chat on cell phones between bites of fresh pea shoots at this lovely Chinese restaurant, where paper lamps cast a soft glow that makes everyone look even sexier than they already are. Remarkably, the artfully arranged plates of minced chicken scattered on lettuce leaves ($8.25) and slices of tea-smoked duck ($7.95) are almost no more expensive than the fluorescent-orange glop at your average Chinese joint. And appropriate to Dragon Well's Marina District setting, chefs have a way with seafood--witness the prawns served in a light white sauce and tossed with crunchy candied walnuts ($9.95). Q 225 Clement St., between 3rd and 4th Aves., 415/752-2298 If someone were to decorate a salvage yard with strings of Christmas lights and alphabet refrigerator magnets, it might end up looking something like the Inner Richmond's Q. That enigmatic name is short for barbecue, a specialty of chef-owner "Smilin' Andy" Gillen, who can often be spotted dishing up pork spare ribs with baked beans and spicy slaw ($10). The menu is a mishmash of Southern standbys and bold California cuisine that's friendlier to vegetarians than the name would (obliquely) suggest. Those suffering from a fit of childhood nostalgia might opt for the rich and starchy macaroni and cheese, counterintuitively paired with Tater Tots ($8). The hippest haunts of the nouveau poor Now that there are fewer people who can charge hundred-dollar meals on their corporate cards, formerly lofty restaurants have jumped on the budget bandwagon, charging common rates for high-power fare. At the height of the dot-com gold rush, diners reserved ahead for dramatic plates of Asian-French food at Azie (826 Folsom St., 415/538-0918). The soaring interior of this former warehouse is still glamorous, but now entrées like five-spice pork tenderloin go for $15 to $20 instead of $25 to $30, and the lines have disappeared. When the sleek and dimly lit JohnFrank struggled serving California cuisine, it cut prices in half, renamed itself Home (2100 Market St., 415/503-0333), and coddled diners with comfort food like macaroni and cheese and roasted chicken ($7.95 to $13.95). Drink specials are an unheard-of $3; make reservations or face a long wait. At Eos Restaurant: (901 Cole St., 415/566-3063), chef Arnold Eric Wong's creative Pan-Asian cuisine has been the talk of the town since 1995. Full meals still cost a fortune, but you can hit the adjoining wine bar for small plates, such as the signature shiitake dumplings ($10) or prawn and lemongrass risotto ($12). Stylish: Mission residents sip cocktails at Butterfly Lounge (1710 Mission St., 415/864-5585). Instead of swanky Pacific Rim fusion food, it's now about Vietnamese-inspired small plates such as green-papaya salad and grilled snapper with caramelized onions. Feeling rich yet? The perfect burrito Chicago flaunts its pizza and Philadelphia its cheese steaks, but in San Francisco, the quintessential quick dinner is the burrito. We set out to find the best one, risking the wrath of locals whose favorite taqueria didn't make the cut. The quest begins at the Mission's Casa Sanchez (2778 24th St., 415/282-2400, $4), famous for a onetime promotion that rewarded people who got a tattoo of the Casa Sanchez logo with free lunch for life. Unfortunately for them, these burritos, while tasty, are tame, too heavy on the beans, and not as good as the homemade chips and salsa. On to a perennial favorite in the burrito wars, Taqueria Cancún (2288 Mission St., 415/252-9560, $3), where huge slices of creamy avocado are tucked in each veggie burrito and the slightly crisp tortillas are warmed on the grill rather than steamed. But we also discover the occasional bits of gristle, enough to keep this one from perfection. The burrito chaser's next stop is, surprisingly, in the gentrified grounds of the Upper Haight at Taqueria El Balazo (1654 Haight St., 415/864-2140, $6). The juicy grilled meat stuffed in the carne asada burrito, plus the selection of salsas and lime wedges that allow you to precisely adjust for taste, are exceptional. But we pay twice as much as at Taqueria Cancún, so we must resume the hunt. Back to the Mission District, where the search began. The carne asada burritos at La Taqueria (2889 Mission St., 415/285-7117, $4.50) are slightly smaller than a foil-wrapped doorstop: Unlike the others, they contain no rice, and the unimpeded power of the meltingly tender and flavorful grilled beef--and lots of it--makes these, for price and palatability, the pick of the litter. The hippest haunts of the nouveau poor Now that there are fewer people who can charge hundred-dollar meals on their corporate cards, formerly lofty restaurants have jumped on the budget bandwagon, charging common rates for high-power fare. At the height of the dot-com gold rush, diners reserved ahead for dramatic plates of Asian-French food at Azie (826 Folsom St., 415/538-0918). The soaring interior of this former warehouse is still glamorous, but now entrées like five-spice pork tenderloin go for $15 to $20 instead of $25 to $30, and the lines have disappeared. When the sleek and dimly lit JohnFrank struggled serving California cuisine, it cut prices in half, renamed itself Home (2100 Market St., 415/503-0333), and coddled diners with comfort food like macaroni and cheese and roasted chicken ($7.95 to $13.95). Drink specials are an unheard-of $3; make reservations or face a long wait. At Eos Restaurant: (901 Cole St., 415/566-3063), chef Arnold Eric Wong's creative Pan-Asian cuisine has been the talk of the town since 1995. Full meals still cost a fortune, but you can hit the adjoining wine bar for small plates, such as the signature shiitake dumplings ($10) or prawn and lemongrass risotto ($12). Stylish: Mission residents sip cocktails at Butterfly Lounge (1710 Mission St., 415/864-5585). Instead of swanky Pacific Rim fusion food, it's now about Vietnamese-inspired small plates such as green-papaya salad and grilled snapper with caramelized onions. Feeling rich yet? The perfect burrito Chicago flaunts its pizza and Philadelphia its cheese steaks, but in San Francisco, the quintessential quick dinner is the burrito. We set out to find the best one, risking the wrath of locals whose favorite taqueria didn't make the cut. The quest begins at the Mission's Casa Sanchez (2778 24th St., 415/282-2400, $4), famous for a onetime promotion that rewarded people who got a tattoo of the Casa Sanchez logo with free lunch for life. Unfortunately for them, these burritos, while tasty, are tame, too heavy on the beans, and not as good as the homemade chips and salsa. On to a perennial favorite in the burrito wars, Taqueria Cancún (2288 Mission St., 415/252-9560, $3), where huge slices of creamy avocado are tucked in each veggie burrito and the slightly crisp tortillas are warmed on the grill rather than steamed. But we also discover the occasional bits of gristle, enough to keep this one from perfection. The burrito chaser's next stop is, surprisingly, in the gentrified grounds of the Upper Haight at Taqueria El Balazo (1654 Haight St., 415/864-2140, $6). The juicy grilled meat stuffed in the carne asada burrito, plus the selection of salsas and lime wedges that allow you to precisely adjust for taste, are exceptional. But we pay twice as much as at Taqueria Cancún, so we must resume the hunt. Back to the Mission District, where the search began. The carne asada burritos at La Taqueria (2889 Mission St., 415/285-7117, $4.50) are slightly smaller than a foil-wrapped doorstop: Unlike the others, they contain no rice, and the unimpeded power of the meltingly tender and flavorful grilled beef--and lots of it--makes these, for price and palatability, the pick of the litter.

Ireland is one of the most beautiful and richly textured destinations, from the melancholy landscape of Connemara to the limestone plate that is the Burren to the "40 shades of green" fields, to the buzz of Dublin, Galway, and Cork. Moreover, Ireland presents a familiar face. The language is the same, if more lyrical, the faces and surnames seem familiar, the food is recognizable, the stout legendary, and the hospitality genuine. And indeed for many Irish Americans, a trip to Ireland is experienced as a kind of homecoming. It takes a while for this superficial reverie to wear off. And when it does, a less sentimental, truer face of Ireland shows itself. And this is when the country becomes truly exciting. >Fewer than four million people live in Ireland, and yet this small nation has a huge identity. When John F. Kennedy spoke in Dublin 40 years ago, he waxed lyrically about Ireland's place in history. "No larger nation did more to keep Christianity and Western culture alive in their darkest centuries. No larger nation did more to spark the cause of independence in America, indeed, around the world. And no larger nation has ever provided the world with more literary and artistic genius. This is an extraordinary country." Suzanne will be answered your questions Tuesday, June 29, at noon EST. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher has spent a part of nearly every year since 1986 in Ireland. Over the years, she's traveled the length and breadth of the island, staying in countless B&Bs and guesthouses, and also farmhouses, lighthouses, historic homes and majestic castles. She's downed oysters in Clarenbridge (home of a famous Oyster Festival each summer), taken Gaelic courses in Donegal, spied the herd of deer in Dublin's Phoenix Park, sat in on traditional music sessions in Clare, and watched the sunset from Dun Aengus, a prehistoric fort perched on the cliffs of Inis Mor. Suzanne is the former Europe Editor of Travel Holiday magazine. Her travel and travel-related writings have appeared in American Baby, Budget Travel, Esquire, Cigar Aficionado, Forbes.com, Four Seasons, Newsweek, and Parents. She has written books on Paris and Ireland, including Frommer's Ireland. She has lived for the past four years in a seaside village north of Dublin and is married with three children under age 6. _______________________ Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: Hi everyone. I'm here a few minutes early and looking forward to your questions, so ask away. _______________________ Tacoma, WA: My family (2 adults, 2 teens) will be visiting Ireland in August. I read your excellent article in Budget Travel magazine on how to eat like a local in Dublin. We plan to spend only a day in Dublin (having spent a week there last year) and were planning instead on touring other parts of the country. What restaurants in other parts of Ireland would you consider not-to-be-missed? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: If eating out and finding great restaurants is a big priority during your stay, you should definitely head for Cork--both the city and the county. It is the culinary hotbed of Ireland and has more excellent restaurants per capita than Dublin. It also has some of the most stunning scenery--I'd particularly smitten with the darling villages that dot the intricate coastline of West Cork-a-nd you could easily spend a week or two touring just County Cork and leave feeling that you'' experienced something very special indeed. Here are some of my favorite places to eat. Each is worth a special trip: In Cork City: *The Ivory Tower, The Exchange Buildings, Princes St. Tel 021/427-4665. For the adventurous. The chef is an American, Seamus O'C'nnell, who is a wild man in the kitchen. Known for his highly original pairings of ingredients, which can seem impossible when you read them on the menu, yet somehow his dishes all work wonderfully and your taste buds are left bedazzled (and very happy). *Jacob's'on the Mall, 30a South Mall. Tel 021/425-1530. Foodies love this place for the very creative, yet subtle, cooking. Fantastic fish and salads, never a bad meal. *Café Paradiso, 16 Lancaster Quay. Tel 021/427-7939. Calling it the country's'best vegetarian restaurant doesn't'do it justice. It's'one of the best restaurants, period. *Jacques, Phoenix St. Tel 021/427-7387. Never mind the uninspired décor; the cooking here is out of this world. Classic continental fare, done better than just about everywhere else. In West Cork: *Good Things Café, Ahakista Road, Durrus. Tel 027/61426. Tiny place using West Cork's 'abulous produce-ch--ese, veggies, meat, fish-an-- transforming it into amazing meals. Has become a "must" on foodie lists practically overnight. *O'Ca'laghan-Walshe, The Square, Rosscarbery. Tel 023/48125. Amazing wild fish dishes. Don't 'iss the mashed spuds-gu--ranteed to be the best you've'ever had in your life. *Otto's Creative Catering, Bandon. Tel 023/40461. Dreams up original dishes like lasagne made with sea spinach and goat's 'heese-an-- makes them work magnificently. A real foodie's 'estination. *Mary Ann's,'Castletownshend. Tel. 028/36146. This adorable little pub on the steep main drag of Castletownshend gets my vote for best pub grub in all of Ireland. Seafood salads, West Cork cheese plates, scallops meunière, sirloin steak with garlic butter, deep-fried prawns. Yum. In East Cork: *Grapefruit Moon, Main St., Ballycotton. Tel 021/464-6646. Lovely room, superb classic cooking, with just enough flair ingredients to make things interesting. *Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry. Tel 021/465-2531. Pretty much single-handedly responsible for the rebirth of Irish country house cooking, which is now copied so ubiquitously. They still set the standard, though. Fabulous meals, using the best local produce. *Aherne's, '63 N. Main St., Youghal (pronounced Yawl). Tel 024/92424. They do wonderful things with fresh seafood. Classic stuff, expertly executed.Also, in Dingle, County Kerry: *The Chart House, The Mall, Dingle. Tel 066/915-2255. One of the "It""re"taurants on the west coast. Terrific modern Irish cooking. I have sent so many people here and nobody has ever been disappointed. In fact, the comment I hear most is that dinner in the Chart House was the best meal of the entire trip. Bon appetit! _______________________ Cleveland, OH: I just came back from a trip to Ireland and (like many before me) have fallen in love with the country and its people! I would be interested in purchasing a home in County Kerry or Cork. What rules, if any, apply to such purchases by a US citizen? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: As far as I am aware, there are no regulations on buying a property that would apply to a US citizen that wouldn't apply to an Irish one. But I would advise you to do your homework before buying anything. Obtaining planning permission to build on a site or extend an existing home can be frustrating. You have to submit your designs to the local county council, which tends to be quite strict about the kind of house and building that can be done. Also, be aware that purchasing an existing house means that you'll have to pay "stamp duty," which is a government tax added on to the purchase price of anything from 5%-10%. But if you've looked into all of that, then go for it! Having a little bolthole in the West of Ireland would be my idea of Heaven, too! _______________________ Spring City, PA: Hello, my wife and I will be in Dublin for the night of our 10th anniversary. Can you recommend a romantic spot for dinner? Thank you! Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: Congratulations on your anniversary! Here are two of my favorite romantic places to eat in Dublin: *One Pico, 5-6 Molesworth Ct, Tel 01/676-0300. About a 5-minute walk from Stephen'' Green, this is a sophisticated, grown-up, classy place, with excellent service and fantastic food. Favorite dishes include a starter of seared foie gras with pineapple tatin; Main dishes are also interesting, running along the lines of scallops with baby beetroot and lime, confit of duck with fig tatin, and beef with Roquefort ravioli. *Jacob'' Ladder, 4-5 Nassau St, Tel 01/670-3865. Inspired cooking by chef-owner Adrian Roche and a stylish dining room with great views over Trinity College make this one of the most consistently packed places in town. Roche'' forte is taking old Irish stalwarts and updating them into sublime signature dishes. Service is terrific and you get great value for your money, especially as this is one of the few upscale restaurants that hasn'' upped its prices in the past year. _______________________ Loleta CA: Please tell me what to pack in regards to clothing for a trip to Ireland in July. Thank you for the help. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: Sunny days may get roasting hot (though maybe not as hot as in California), but evenings will be undeniably chilly, especially on the coast, so you'll need layers that can be easily added/subtracted. Also, July can be very unpredictable for rainfall, so bring a waterproof jacket of some sort. (My favorite is the kind that can be rolled up and stuffed into its own kangaroo pouch. It takes up very little suitcase space and fits the bill). _______________________ Hartford, CT: I'm planning a trip to Ireland for March 2005. There are some great deals right now for travel but would I be likely to get a better deal if I waited until the fall or even later to book it? I know I want to pre-book at least air/car and possibly pre-book B&B stays also. This will be my 3rd trip to Ireland and I want to be able to be as flexible as possible when I'm there. Thanks, Carolyn Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: Springtime is usually packed with deals, so my advice would be to wait until 3-4 months before you go. Prices almost certainly will fall. To find a great fly-drive deal, sign up for "travel alert" emails from online agents like travelzoo.com, travelocity.com, expedia.com, and keep checking into this website's Deals File. It's amazing what cheap offers pop up from time to time. I have also had excellent first-hand experience with two good tour operators specializing in Ireland. Sceptre Tours regularly offers combined airfare, car rental, and/or accommodations packages at very reasonable rates (tel. 800/221-0924; wceptretours.com). And Lismore Travel is a favorite of the Irish community living in the U.S. (tel. 800/547-6673 or 212/685-0100). _______________________ Louisville, KY: I don't have a question, but I wanted to thank you for Budget Travel's coverage and suggestions about Ireland. I had always wanted to see Ireland, and last year, because of a suggestion from your magazine, found an affordable trip there through SceptreIreland. My boyfriend and I spent 6 wonderful days driving through mainly the southwest portions of the country. We met many wonderful people, had delicious food and saw breathtaking sites. We so enjoyed the trip, we have been planning a return, and we owe it all to Budget Travel--thanks again! Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: On behalf of Budget Travel, you're welcome. And as you can see from the previous response, we continue to sing the praises of Sceptre. But your comment is probably the best recommendation out there. _______________________ St. Louis, Missouri: My boyfriend and I will be taking a trip in August to Ireland. This will be the first for both of us. I have picked up several brochures on Ireland and I have no idea where to start. We won't be there long and want to hit as much as we can. Can you suggest some "must see" destinations? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: First off, you should definitely buy a guidebook. (May I recommend Frommer's Ireland 2004, which I wrote?) You'll recoup what you spend many times over with the advice on how to save money, where to stay, what to see, where to eat, and so on. I always tell people with limited time in Ireland to head for the west coast, which is a snap if you fly into Shannon airport. The west is the Ireland that most visitors imagine in their mind'' eye and hope to experience. Rent a car, then you can start just about anywhere (say, Westport, in County Mayo---urther north if you have more than 10 days, further south if you have less time) and simply travel down the coast. Highlights include:*the mystical, melancholy, magic Connemara region, which is spread over part of Counties Mayo and Galway; *Galway City, the arts capital of Ireland; *Doolin (for traditional music in McGann's'pub!), the Burren, and Cliffs of Moher, all in County Clare; *the Dingle Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, and Kenmare, all in County Kerry; *the Beara Peninsula, Kinsale, and Cork City, all in County Cork. You can scale back if you don't 'ave time to do it all, and I would heartily recommend taking the time to relax and soak up the atmosphere in these places instead of barrelling through them. The beauty of Ireland is as much about the people as the scenery. _______________________ Forty Fort, PA: I fell in love with Ireland, particularly the charming fishing village of Kinsale. Can you suggest similar places near the sea? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: I adore Kinsale, County Cork, too, and it is my mother's very favorite place in Ireland after several visits. Let's see. If I were to compile a list of other too-charming-for-words seaside towns, it would include: Dalkey, County Dublin: Just 8 miles south of Dublin, but a world away from the capital'' crush. Picture an impeccably-kept hamlet with a 15th-century castle, a 9th-century Romanesque church, and a turn-of-the-century main street, all set upon a rugged collision of cliffs and sea. Tiny, with fewer than a dozen restaurants, 6 pubs, and a handful of smart boutiques and sophisticated art galleries. Carlingford, County Louth: What a pleasant surprise, up in lackluster Louth. An adorable, tiny medieval village with castle ruins right on the bay, excellent eateries, and pedestrian-friendly lanes filled with colorful shops, cafes, and pubs. Kenmare, County Kerry: If you're'driving the Ring of Kerry, this is the most charming base camp you could wish for. The "li"tle nest" h"s a blessed location at the mouth of the River Roughty on Kenmare Bay (not quite the seaside, but within spitting distance!), and is loaded to the gills with flower boxes, enchanting shops, and places to eat. And my favorite of all, Westport, County Mayo: It's never a surprise in Ireland when someone says Westport is his favorite town-it'-- small and bursting. Someday it might explode into a city, but for now Westport remains a hyperactive town that somehow manages to be as friendly and welcoming as a village. _______________________ Sugar Land, TX: Hi Suzanne. I've been reading about President Bush's visit to Ireland for the EU-US Summit and it looks like he got a rough reception by the Irish. Is there a lot of anti-American sentiment in Ireland these days? I was hoping to visit Ireland this summer. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: In my four years of living here, I haven't really ever sensed that the Irish dislike Americans. In fact, I've found them to be an extremely friendly lot. There's a lot of American culture that they like. They watch American TV programs, go see Hollywood movies, and admire American entrepreneurism and innovation. How they feel about current US foreign policy is another thing, however. Opinion polls show that the Irish don'' like the Bush administration'' stance on many issues, including its handling of the war in Iraq. The demonstrations you read about during Bush'' visit were led mainly by anti-war groups. Still, you need to realize that the Irish (like most Europeans) are quite grown up about politics and are able to make a distinction between the American people and their government's'foreign policy. I'd'be surprised-m--ke that downright shocked-i-- you encountered any anti-American sentiment at all during a visit to Ireland. _______________________ Scituate, MA: My sister and I are planning a trip to Ireland next spring. The trip's purpose will be to trace our Irish roots and find out as much as we can about our ancestors and where they came from. I know we can hire paid researchers, but we really want to do the work ourselves. What resources can we get started with before our trip, and where can we go in Ireland to further our research? Thanks. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: The more information you can gather about your family before you arrive in Ireland, the better. Start online with the Church of Latter Day Saints, in Salt Lake City, UT (801/240-2331; familysearch.org), keepers of the world's largest family history library. For archives of ancestors who were born, died, or were married in the US, check out the National Archives and Records Administration (nara.gov). Also try ancestry.com for its UK and Ireland records collection, which includes New York Port Arrival Records containing passenger lists from the great Irish immigration period between 1846 and 1851. Finally, take a look at geneaology.com. There are some very good Irish-based online sites, too. Start with the Irish National Archives (nationalarchives.ie/geneaology.html), which holds online searchable databases of Ireland'' vital records. A brand new, excellent genealogy resource covering all 32 counties on the island is the Irish Family History Foundation'' new Internet site at irishroots.net. Once you get to Ireland, Dublin is the location for all the Republic of Ireland's centralized genealogical records. Here are the major sources of information: *The Manuscripts Reading Room in the National Library, Kildare Street, Dublin 2 (Tel 01/603-0200; wli.ie) has an extensive collection of pre-1880 Catholic records of baptisms, births, and marriages. *The General Register Office, Joyce House, 8/11 Lombard St. E., Dublin 2 ([tel] 01/635-4000; wroireland.ie), is the central repository for records relating to births, deaths, and marriages in the Republic. *The Registry of Deeds, Kings Inns, Henrietta Street, Dublin 1 ([tel] 01/670-7500; fax 01/804-8406; wrlgov.ie/landreg), has records that date from 1708 and relate to all the usual transactions affecting property--that means leases, mortgages, and settlements and some wills. That should be enough to sink your teeth into. Happy hunting! _______________________ Pensacola, FL: Is it safe to stay overnight in B&Bs in Northern Ireland (specifically around the Giant's Causeway region)? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: Perfectly safe. Enjoy your visit! _______________________ Alexandria, VA: I am planning my first trip to Ireland in October for a friend's wedding in Waterford. We are giving ourselves about ten days, a few before and a few after, to explore Kinsale, Galway, etc. and I was wondering if there is a website you would suggest for driving directions/tourist routes/hotels? Thanks! Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: I'd invest in a good guidebook to help choose your itinerary and find accommodation and places to eat. (Again, I'll recommend Frommer's Ireland 2004). For driving directions, try aaroadwatch.ie. It's run by the AA (Irish equivalent of the AAA in the US). The website has a cool device that lets you enter your departure and destination, and then it spits out very thorough, no-brainer directions. Have a great trip! _______________________ Ormond Beach, FL: My wife and I and two other couples wish to rent a house somewhere in Ireland later this year. Best month? Best location for first timers? We love green, walking, pubs, interesting things. Tips on where to go for research? Thanks very much for your response. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: For groups like yours, I always recommend self-catering properties that are available for short-term rental. Two good sources are rentacottage.ie and selfcateringireland.ie. But my first choice would be to rent a property through the Irish Landmark Trust (Tel 01/670-4733; wrishlandmark.com). I can'' say enough about this outfit. It'' a non-profit organization whose mission is to restore neglected, historically significant properties and rent them out as self-catering accommodation. I have stayed in many of their properties, which range from a lighthouse in Wicklow, to lighthouse keepers''houses on the southwest coast, to 19th-century land agent'' homes in Donegal, to historic farmhouse in Kilkenny, to a Gothic gate lodge on vast estate in Cork, and so on. Each of them is a very special place and beautifully appointed with period furnishings, but they all feel comfortable and homey, not museum-ish. And because the ILT is non-profit, the rates are quite reasonable for the level of comfort and space you get. The property I have in mind for a group like yours is Clomantagh Castle, in Kilkenny. It's'a huge, rambling farmhouse sleeps 10 and is ideal. The complex of buildings at Clomantagh includes the ruins of a 12th-century church and an early-15th-century crenellated tower house, which is attached to an 18th-century farmhouse. There are four large double bedrooms in the farmhouse, with a connecting staircase leading to a fifth wonderfully medieval double bedroom in the tower itself (You'l' be fighting over who gets to sleep in that room!). The decor throughout the house is pleasingly old-fashioned and rustic, with many fine period pieces and brass beds. There are several reception rooms, but the house's'beating heart is the enormous, old-fashioned country kitchen with a flagstone floor, timbered ceiling, and Stanley range. Kilkenny City is only about 20 minutes away by car. _______________________ Morgantown, PA: I am looking for the best advice when it comes to working in Ireland. I live state-side and have this dream of living and working in Ireland. I have vacationed there twice in the past year and have this overwhelming desire to relocate and experience a new culture. Ideally I would like a job and then move to Ireland, rather than the other way around. I also understand it's favorable to have a company sponsor you to ensure passage into another country and legality of living abroad.(if not a resident). Can you offer up any suggestions? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: There's the official version of how the expat life works, and then there's, well, reality. As a tourist, you're entitled to stay in Ireland for up to 90 days without additional paperwork. Since I have been living in Europe (France for 7 years, Ireland for 4), I have met more people than I can count who manage to live abroad without a visa simply by making sure they leave the country before the maximum 90 days has expired, then return again shortly thereafter. The drawbacks to this way of life are obvious; life under the table means that you're forever limited to low-paying jobs where employers look the other way when it comes to visas. Also, you're living outside the system, so your rights are minimized on many fronts, including access to the health system. If you're thinking of spending just a year in Ireland, this red-tape-bypass approach may appeal to you. But if you're hoping to move to Ireland for several years or more, I suggest doing everything you can to get a work visa. In assessing your application, the Irish government will look for evidence that you can support yourself, either through employment or sufficient funds of support (you''l need bank statements, proof of assets, etc.) for the duration of your stay. On the face of it, it's a Catch-22: You can't get a job without a visa, and you can'' get a visa without a job. Still, in my experience, people who really want to live abroad find a way to make it happen. If you're looking for a job, start by contacting American companies with offices in Ireland. You can get a list from the American Chamber of Commerce Ireland at wmcham.ie. For visa info, consult the Irish Embassy in Washington, D.C. at wrelandemb.org/living.html. Living abroad is a wonderfully enriching experience on so many levels. I wish you the best of luck! _______________________ Albany, NY: My family (15 of us) will be going to Ireland in late July, touring along the coast from Dublin to Kilarney. Those who have already been there are not keen on Cork as a destination but some people say it is much nicer than it was. Do you recommend taking time to visit Cork? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: I am biased, because my husband is from Cork and we've had a wonderful times there. We were even married in West Cork, and I consider it one of the three prettiest regions in Ireland. And it's got some fabulous restaurants sprinkled everywhere, which is another reason to go. I'd even go so far to say (and my Dublin friends will kill me for this) that I would recommend visiting Cork before Dublin. Fly into Cork, drive out into West Cork, then up through Kenmare and into Killarney that way. Magical. _______________________ Alexandria,VA: I am visiting The Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland in July 2004. I heard that I can get the Value Added Tax (VAT) refunded. Where do you submit this request, at the airport only? Can I download forms off an official web site? Must I submit this prior to leaving either country? Are there any additional taxes US Citizens may request for refund? Thanks! Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: There's a section in Frommer's Ireland 2004 where I discuss VAT strategies fairly extensively. You can access it online at frommers.com, by clicking "destinations." Find Ireland, then go to "planning your trip," and finally "tips on attractions and shopping." It tells you all you need to know. _______________________ Haslett, MI: I will only have two full days in Dublin, July 2nd and July 11th. The other time will be spent at Oideas Gael school. Are there any don't miss things I should do in Dublin with my limited time? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: You'll love Oideas Gael! I took the Gaelic course three years in a row, and then I took the hillwalking (mountain hiking) course. Brilliant! Don't miss the Viking Splash Tour in Dublin. You take in all the major sites from an amphibious vehicle that drives, then swims, through Dublin. Much fun! _______________________ Hanford, CA: Since you're technically in 2 nations, is it a pain to rent a car in the south and also tour the north? I've heard some stories. Thanks. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: I have driven from the Republic to the North and back again on many occasions and never had a hint of difficulty. Go for it. _______________________ Atlanta, Georgia: What Jewish landmarks/sites are there in Ireland? Thank you. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: As you probably realize, the Irish are overwhelmingly Roman Catholic so sites that specialize in Jewish heritage are thin on the ground. Even so, there's been a small Jewish community in Ireland for nearly a millennium! In Dublin, there's the Irish Jewish Museum on Walworth Rd (01/453-1797) and there's also an Old Jewish Cemetery in the city's Ballybough area. For more info, try jewishireland.com. _______________________ Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: Looks like my time is up. It was nice answering your questions! _______________________

Quebec City is a nesting box of treasures. Round a corner, open a door, or climb one of the city's 60 staircases to the top and you never know what you'll find--a quiet gallery of Inuit art, world-class musicians playing for passersby, a cart selling ice cream made from local wild strawberries. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a resident, Quebec City has the ability to charm at every turn. Travelers of all budgets and interests will find something to their liking in this special corner of Canada, whose story is symbolized on building edifices and letterhead everywhere in the form of a sacred regional trinity: a Canadian maple leaf, French fleur-de-lis, and English rose. Its European roots run very deep, back some 1,000 years. New France, Old France Many wax poetic about how European French-speaking Quebec City, and for good reason--it's the only walled city north of Mexico and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. The Old City, anchored by the imposing Chateau Frontenac (the most photographed hotel in the world), and historic port that spreads along the mighty, tidal waters of the St. Laurence River, are indeed reminiscent of France, each with enough ghosts and cobbled streets to conjure Old World visions. In fact, nowadays it often stands in as Europe for production companies that don't want to pay the way for crews to cross the pond. Taking Lives starring Angelina Jolie was the most recent movie to be filmed there. Despite it being a scenic backdrop and riding on its reputation of an historic wonderland, it's winning the fight against "Disneyfication." Quebec City is far from being a theme park. Rather, it's a living breathing city of nearly one million now, working hard to forge a modern identity beyond the ramparts and quaint Vieille Ville. It's succeeding, evidenced by the cosmopolitan cocktail lounges that now dot the fringes of the Old Port, the funky coffee shops of the new Quartier, the world-reknown jazz bars on St. Joseph's Street, and the skateboarding punks that like to hang out in the Place D'Youville. For centuries, Quebec City was one of the most important cities on the continent, and even went head-to-head against New York City as home of the United Nations. Walking around and speaking to people, however, you get the sense that the city is inching back onto the world stage. Local pride is at an all-time high, and no wonder. The economy is doing well; for many years graduates left for greater opportunities in Montreal or beyond, but now they're staying and building their professional lives closer to home. And, there's virtually no crime in Quebec City. Even during its Quiet Revolution in 1960 not a drop of blood was shed when local French Canadians fought for the same opportunities as their Anglo counterparts. And who wouldn't be proud of a city-wide art democratization mandate that states that one percent of public works' budgets must be used for art? When it comes to dining, you simply can't go wrong in Quebec City, a town that gave birth to the region's modern day gastronomic revolution in the 1930's. Even a casual, on-the-hoof snack of a street crepe made with local cheese, a slice of "sugar pie," or a crusty sandwich offer unexpected satisfaction. For those who venture beyond the popular pedestrian streets, other treats await. One very special place to eat is the ornate dining hall inside the Parliament Building (three-course lunches $15, dinner $40). Who knows, you may even eat next to the Premier. Another relatively unknown spot is the restaurant tucked inside the Musee National des Beaux Arts du Quebec, or fine art museum of Quebec where a three-course lunch also goes for $15. For drinks, try the simple pleasure of nursing a maple beer purchased at the oldest grocery store in North America, J.A. Moisan, located at 699 rue Saint-Jean. The unusual brew just won the prestigious Prix D'Innovation, or Innovation Prize, in Paris. L'Echaude Restaurant (http://www.echaude.com/, 73 rue Sault-au-Matelot) a 20-year-old bistro in the Old Port, which offers 10 wines by the glass (and a superb list of bottles), $10 three-course lunches called table d'hote ($16 for dinner), and the best steak tartare in the city, is another sure bet. And just down the street sits one of the city's most unusual hotels, L'Auberge Saint-Antoine, whose outstanding restaurant Panache officially opens this month. Whether you choose to stay at L'Auberge Saint-Antoine or not, a dinner by the artful chef Francoise Blais is mandatory during a visit to Quebec City. Blais's reverence for fresh ingredients and French Canadian cuisine shines through in every dish, creating a memorable festival of local flavors. A room to call your own in and around the Old City Summer is considered high season in Quebec City, but here are some good nightly lodging deals currently on offer (all prices are per room, not per person): $83--Battlefield's B&B $113--Hotel Le Saint Paul $122--Hotel Gouveneur Quebec $378--Chateau Le Frontenac $82--One night at the Best Western Hotel Aristocrat, breakfast for two, entry to the Musee National des Beaux Arts du Quebec (regularly priced at $7.50). Until Aug. 29 there's an impressive exhibition of Picasso's ceramics. $101--Same as above but with stays at the Hotel Manoir Victoria $112--Same as above but with stays at the Courtyard Marriott Quebec $115--One night at the Hotel Clarendon in the old city, dinner, breakfast in bed, and chocolates $177--One night at Loews Le Concorde in a room overlooking the St. Laurence River, and breakfast buffet $162--One night at the modern Hotel Quartier, two American-style breakfasts, and two passes to the elaborate Valcartier Village water park (regularly US$18). *This offer is valid until Aug. 31. $260--One night at the famed Chateau Le Frontenac and buffet breakfast for two on its grand terrace. Walking into the L'Auberge Saint-Antoine is like walking into a museum, only the reception is much, much warmer. The 83-room hotel, which is located in the Old Port and blessedly just off some of the city's well-tread tourist paths, opened in 1992 in three historic buildings on an archeological site that yielded some 5,000 artifacts. Four-hundred of them are on view in the hotel's common spaces and even in the rooms themselves. Each floor represents a layer of excavation, and each room identified by its own treasure. Etched aperitif glasses used by visiting diplomats in the early 1800's may be embedded in your nightstand, or a Chinese porcelain cup used in the mid-1700's neatly displayed by your room door. Appropriately, Saint Anthony is the patron saint of travelers and lost things. The hotel is owned, designed, and curated by the Price family, who first landed in Quebec two centuries ago to build a logging and paper business. The familial hands-on approach is part of the hotel's unique, intimate appeal. Airy public spaces reveal whimsical touches, and the newer rooms especially, are a successful marriage history and modern design, with sleek fireplaces, sumptuous fabrics, and bathtubs big enough for three. Rates at L'Auberge Saint-Antoine start at USD $142 (for a Classic room) midweek in mid-August. All prices include a homespun buffet breakfast in the hotel's tea salon-lounge. The feedback about L'Auberge Saint-Antoine on Tripadvisor.com, a website repository for unbiased reviews of hotels, is nothing short of glowing. One guest from Boston writes, "I loved it. It was the best hotel I ever stayed in." Even a resident of France, a country that overflows with inviting hotels, reported that it was one of the most charming places they've ever stayed. Flying into the great green north Getting to Quebec Ctiy is easy and affordable these days--this was not always the case. Here's a short list of the lowest airfares to Quebec City available for travel mid-August: $220--New York City (Continental) NONSTOP $260--Boston (Air Canada) $296--Philadelphia (Air Canada) $334--Chicago (Northwest) $386--Atlanta (Air Canada) $384--Miami (Air Canada) $467--Los Angeles (Air Canada) Given that most flights from the US to Quebec City have to pass through the bigger metropolis of Montreal, on occasion it can be worth your while to price round-trip tickets from your home airport, and then by a ticket on a flight offered by one of Canada's low-cost carriers. For example, Tango, Air Canada's no-frills little sister, has each-way fares as low as US $44 between Montreal and Quebec City. Air Canada itself has 16 flights per day from Montreal to Quebec City, and there are two nonstop flights between Detroit and Quebec City too. (Remember to convert your prices into US dollars when searching for flights on Canadian airlines.) JetsGo, one of Canada's newest cheap seat flyers, has yet to add Quebec City to its list of international destinations. It does fly between New York City, Las Vegas, Orlando, Ft. Lauderdale, and Ft. Myers and Montreal however, with one-way tickets as low as $99. Border crossing by rail Another way to go is by train. If you've got the time and enjoy watching the wooded scenery and the world go by, this option may be more your speed. Until Oct. 2, VIA Rail Canada is selling discounted tickets on Saturday travel in the Quebec-Windsor corridor: Windsor (Detroit) - Toronto - Montreal - Quebec City. Economy class fares normally priced between $14 and $70 are reduced by 50 percent. This offer is not limited to students and seniors--everyone can take advantage of the offer. And parents can also take 50 percent regular kid fares. Four trains a day run between Montreal and Quebec City, and the ride lasts about three hours. Fares between the two cities average $25, but with the VIA Rail's sale, you're looking at spending just $12 each way. Unfortunately, train fares between US cities and Quebec are not so cheap. For example, Amtrak charges $65 each way between New York City and Montreal, where travelers can connect with VIA Rail trains, and $140 round-trip. Expect even more from other cities.