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Ireland is one of the most beautiful and richly textured destinations, from the melancholy landscape of Connemara to the limestone plate that is the Burren to the "40 shades of green" fields, to the buzz of Dublin, Galway, and Cork. Moreover, Ireland presents a familiar face. The language is the same, if more lyrical, the faces and surnames seem familiar, the food is recognizable, the stout legendary, and the hospitality genuine. And indeed for many Irish Americans, a trip to Ireland is experienced as a kind of homecoming. It takes a while for this superficial reverie to wear off. And when it does, a less sentimental, truer face of Ireland shows itself. And this is when the country becomes truly exciting. >Fewer than four million people live in Ireland, and yet this small nation has a huge identity. When John F. Kennedy spoke in Dublin 40 years ago, he waxed lyrically about Ireland's place in history. "No larger nation did more to keep Christianity and Western culture alive in their darkest centuries. No larger nation did more to spark the cause of independence in America, indeed, around the world. And no larger nation has ever provided the world with more literary and artistic genius. This is an extraordinary country." Suzanne will be answered your questions Tuesday, June 29, at noon EST. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher has spent a part of nearly every year since 1986 in Ireland. Over the years, she's traveled the length and breadth of the island, staying in countless B&Bs and guesthouses, and also farmhouses, lighthouses, historic homes and majestic castles. She's downed oysters in Clarenbridge (home of a famous Oyster Festival each summer), taken Gaelic courses in Donegal, spied the herd of deer in Dublin's Phoenix Park, sat in on traditional music sessions in Clare, and watched the sunset from Dun Aengus, a prehistoric fort perched on the cliffs of Inis Mor. Suzanne is the former Europe Editor of Travel Holiday magazine. Her travel and travel-related writings have appeared in American Baby, Budget Travel, Esquire, Cigar Aficionado, Forbes.com, Four Seasons, Newsweek, and Parents. She has written books on Paris and Ireland, including Frommer's Ireland. She has lived for the past four years in a seaside village north of Dublin and is married with three children under age 6. _______________________ Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: Hi everyone. I'm here a few minutes early and looking forward to your questions, so ask away. _______________________ Tacoma, WA: My family (2 adults, 2 teens) will be visiting Ireland in August. I read your excellent article in Budget Travel magazine on how to eat like a local in Dublin. We plan to spend only a day in Dublin (having spent a week there last year) and were planning instead on touring other parts of the country. What restaurants in other parts of Ireland would you consider not-to-be-missed? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: If eating out and finding great restaurants is a big priority during your stay, you should definitely head for Cork--both the city and the county. It is the culinary hotbed of Ireland and has more excellent restaurants per capita than Dublin. It also has some of the most stunning scenery--I'd particularly smitten with the darling villages that dot the intricate coastline of West Cork-a-nd you could easily spend a week or two touring just County Cork and leave feeling that you'' experienced something very special indeed. Here are some of my favorite places to eat. Each is worth a special trip: In Cork City: *The Ivory Tower, The Exchange Buildings, Princes St. Tel 021/427-4665. For the adventurous. The chef is an American, Seamus O'C'nnell, who is a wild man in the kitchen. Known for his highly original pairings of ingredients, which can seem impossible when you read them on the menu, yet somehow his dishes all work wonderfully and your taste buds are left bedazzled (and very happy). *Jacob's'on the Mall, 30a South Mall. Tel 021/425-1530. Foodies love this place for the very creative, yet subtle, cooking. Fantastic fish and salads, never a bad meal. *Café Paradiso, 16 Lancaster Quay. Tel 021/427-7939. Calling it the country's'best vegetarian restaurant doesn't'do it justice. It's'one of the best restaurants, period. *Jacques, Phoenix St. Tel 021/427-7387. Never mind the uninspired décor; the cooking here is out of this world. Classic continental fare, done better than just about everywhere else. In West Cork: *Good Things Café, Ahakista Road, Durrus. Tel 027/61426. Tiny place using West Cork's 'abulous produce-ch--ese, veggies, meat, fish-an-- transforming it into amazing meals. Has become a "must" on foodie lists practically overnight. *O'Ca'laghan-Walshe, The Square, Rosscarbery. Tel 023/48125. Amazing wild fish dishes. Don't 'iss the mashed spuds-gu--ranteed to be the best you've'ever had in your life. *Otto's Creative Catering, Bandon. Tel 023/40461. Dreams up original dishes like lasagne made with sea spinach and goat's 'heese-an-- makes them work magnificently. A real foodie's 'estination. *Mary Ann's,'Castletownshend. Tel. 028/36146. This adorable little pub on the steep main drag of Castletownshend gets my vote for best pub grub in all of Ireland. Seafood salads, West Cork cheese plates, scallops meunière, sirloin steak with garlic butter, deep-fried prawns. Yum. In East Cork: *Grapefruit Moon, Main St., Ballycotton. Tel 021/464-6646. Lovely room, superb classic cooking, with just enough flair ingredients to make things interesting. *Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry. Tel 021/465-2531. Pretty much single-handedly responsible for the rebirth of Irish country house cooking, which is now copied so ubiquitously. They still set the standard, though. Fabulous meals, using the best local produce. *Aherne's, '63 N. Main St., Youghal (pronounced Yawl). Tel 024/92424. They do wonderful things with fresh seafood. Classic stuff, expertly executed.Also, in Dingle, County Kerry: *The Chart House, The Mall, Dingle. Tel 066/915-2255. One of the "It""re"taurants on the west coast. Terrific modern Irish cooking. I have sent so many people here and nobody has ever been disappointed. In fact, the comment I hear most is that dinner in the Chart House was the best meal of the entire trip. Bon appetit! _______________________ Cleveland, OH: I just came back from a trip to Ireland and (like many before me) have fallen in love with the country and its people! I would be interested in purchasing a home in County Kerry or Cork. What rules, if any, apply to such purchases by a US citizen? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: As far as I am aware, there are no regulations on buying a property that would apply to a US citizen that wouldn't apply to an Irish one. But I would advise you to do your homework before buying anything. Obtaining planning permission to build on a site or extend an existing home can be frustrating. You have to submit your designs to the local county council, which tends to be quite strict about the kind of house and building that can be done. Also, be aware that purchasing an existing house means that you'll have to pay "stamp duty," which is a government tax added on to the purchase price of anything from 5%-10%. But if you've looked into all of that, then go for it! Having a little bolthole in the West of Ireland would be my idea of Heaven, too! _______________________ Spring City, PA: Hello, my wife and I will be in Dublin for the night of our 10th anniversary. Can you recommend a romantic spot for dinner? Thank you! Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: Congratulations on your anniversary! Here are two of my favorite romantic places to eat in Dublin: *One Pico, 5-6 Molesworth Ct, Tel 01/676-0300. About a 5-minute walk from Stephen'' Green, this is a sophisticated, grown-up, classy place, with excellent service and fantastic food. Favorite dishes include a starter of seared foie gras with pineapple tatin; Main dishes are also interesting, running along the lines of scallops with baby beetroot and lime, confit of duck with fig tatin, and beef with Roquefort ravioli. *Jacob'' Ladder, 4-5 Nassau St, Tel 01/670-3865. Inspired cooking by chef-owner Adrian Roche and a stylish dining room with great views over Trinity College make this one of the most consistently packed places in town. Roche'' forte is taking old Irish stalwarts and updating them into sublime signature dishes. Service is terrific and you get great value for your money, especially as this is one of the few upscale restaurants that hasn'' upped its prices in the past year. _______________________ Loleta CA: Please tell me what to pack in regards to clothing for a trip to Ireland in July. Thank you for the help. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: Sunny days may get roasting hot (though maybe not as hot as in California), but evenings will be undeniably chilly, especially on the coast, so you'll need layers that can be easily added/subtracted. Also, July can be very unpredictable for rainfall, so bring a waterproof jacket of some sort. (My favorite is the kind that can be rolled up and stuffed into its own kangaroo pouch. It takes up very little suitcase space and fits the bill). _______________________ Hartford, CT: I'm planning a trip to Ireland for March 2005. There are some great deals right now for travel but would I be likely to get a better deal if I waited until the fall or even later to book it? I know I want to pre-book at least air/car and possibly pre-book B&B stays also. This will be my 3rd trip to Ireland and I want to be able to be as flexible as possible when I'm there. Thanks, Carolyn Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: Springtime is usually packed with deals, so my advice would be to wait until 3-4 months before you go. Prices almost certainly will fall. To find a great fly-drive deal, sign up for "travel alert" emails from online agents like travelzoo.com, travelocity.com, expedia.com, and keep checking into this website's Deals File. It's amazing what cheap offers pop up from time to time. I have also had excellent first-hand experience with two good tour operators specializing in Ireland. Sceptre Tours regularly offers combined airfare, car rental, and/or accommodations packages at very reasonable rates (tel. 800/221-0924; wceptretours.com). And Lismore Travel is a favorite of the Irish community living in the U.S. (tel. 800/547-6673 or 212/685-0100). _______________________ Louisville, KY: I don't have a question, but I wanted to thank you for Budget Travel's coverage and suggestions about Ireland. I had always wanted to see Ireland, and last year, because of a suggestion from your magazine, found an affordable trip there through SceptreIreland. My boyfriend and I spent 6 wonderful days driving through mainly the southwest portions of the country. We met many wonderful people, had delicious food and saw breathtaking sites. We so enjoyed the trip, we have been planning a return, and we owe it all to Budget Travel--thanks again! Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: On behalf of Budget Travel, you're welcome. And as you can see from the previous response, we continue to sing the praises of Sceptre. But your comment is probably the best recommendation out there. _______________________ St. Louis, Missouri: My boyfriend and I will be taking a trip in August to Ireland. This will be the first for both of us. I have picked up several brochures on Ireland and I have no idea where to start. We won't be there long and want to hit as much as we can. Can you suggest some "must see" destinations? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: First off, you should definitely buy a guidebook. (May I recommend Frommer's Ireland 2004, which I wrote?) You'll recoup what you spend many times over with the advice on how to save money, where to stay, what to see, where to eat, and so on. I always tell people with limited time in Ireland to head for the west coast, which is a snap if you fly into Shannon airport. The west is the Ireland that most visitors imagine in their mind'' eye and hope to experience. Rent a car, then you can start just about anywhere (say, Westport, in County Mayo---urther north if you have more than 10 days, further south if you have less time) and simply travel down the coast. Highlights include:*the mystical, melancholy, magic Connemara region, which is spread over part of Counties Mayo and Galway; *Galway City, the arts capital of Ireland; *Doolin (for traditional music in McGann's'pub!), the Burren, and Cliffs of Moher, all in County Clare; *the Dingle Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, and Kenmare, all in County Kerry; *the Beara Peninsula, Kinsale, and Cork City, all in County Cork. You can scale back if you don't 'ave time to do it all, and I would heartily recommend taking the time to relax and soak up the atmosphere in these places instead of barrelling through them. The beauty of Ireland is as much about the people as the scenery. _______________________ Forty Fort, PA: I fell in love with Ireland, particularly the charming fishing village of Kinsale. Can you suggest similar places near the sea? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: I adore Kinsale, County Cork, too, and it is my mother's very favorite place in Ireland after several visits. Let's see. If I were to compile a list of other too-charming-for-words seaside towns, it would include: Dalkey, County Dublin: Just 8 miles south of Dublin, but a world away from the capital'' crush. Picture an impeccably-kept hamlet with a 15th-century castle, a 9th-century Romanesque church, and a turn-of-the-century main street, all set upon a rugged collision of cliffs and sea. Tiny, with fewer than a dozen restaurants, 6 pubs, and a handful of smart boutiques and sophisticated art galleries. Carlingford, County Louth: What a pleasant surprise, up in lackluster Louth. An adorable, tiny medieval village with castle ruins right on the bay, excellent eateries, and pedestrian-friendly lanes filled with colorful shops, cafes, and pubs. Kenmare, County Kerry: If you're'driving the Ring of Kerry, this is the most charming base camp you could wish for. The "li"tle nest" h"s a blessed location at the mouth of the River Roughty on Kenmare Bay (not quite the seaside, but within spitting distance!), and is loaded to the gills with flower boxes, enchanting shops, and places to eat. And my favorite of all, Westport, County Mayo: It's never a surprise in Ireland when someone says Westport is his favorite town-it'-- small and bursting. Someday it might explode into a city, but for now Westport remains a hyperactive town that somehow manages to be as friendly and welcoming as a village. _______________________ Sugar Land, TX: Hi Suzanne. I've been reading about President Bush's visit to Ireland for the EU-US Summit and it looks like he got a rough reception by the Irish. Is there a lot of anti-American sentiment in Ireland these days? I was hoping to visit Ireland this summer. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: In my four years of living here, I haven't really ever sensed that the Irish dislike Americans. In fact, I've found them to be an extremely friendly lot. There's a lot of American culture that they like. They watch American TV programs, go see Hollywood movies, and admire American entrepreneurism and innovation. How they feel about current US foreign policy is another thing, however. Opinion polls show that the Irish don'' like the Bush administration'' stance on many issues, including its handling of the war in Iraq. The demonstrations you read about during Bush'' visit were led mainly by anti-war groups. Still, you need to realize that the Irish (like most Europeans) are quite grown up about politics and are able to make a distinction between the American people and their government's'foreign policy. I'd'be surprised-m--ke that downright shocked-i-- you encountered any anti-American sentiment at all during a visit to Ireland. _______________________ Scituate, MA: My sister and I are planning a trip to Ireland next spring. The trip's purpose will be to trace our Irish roots and find out as much as we can about our ancestors and where they came from. I know we can hire paid researchers, but we really want to do the work ourselves. What resources can we get started with before our trip, and where can we go in Ireland to further our research? Thanks. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: The more information you can gather about your family before you arrive in Ireland, the better. Start online with the Church of Latter Day Saints, in Salt Lake City, UT (801/240-2331; familysearch.org), keepers of the world's largest family history library. For archives of ancestors who were born, died, or were married in the US, check out the National Archives and Records Administration (nara.gov). Also try ancestry.com for its UK and Ireland records collection, which includes New York Port Arrival Records containing passenger lists from the great Irish immigration period between 1846 and 1851. Finally, take a look at geneaology.com. There are some very good Irish-based online sites, too. Start with the Irish National Archives (nationalarchives.ie/geneaology.html), which holds online searchable databases of Ireland'' vital records. A brand new, excellent genealogy resource covering all 32 counties on the island is the Irish Family History Foundation'' new Internet site at irishroots.net. Once you get to Ireland, Dublin is the location for all the Republic of Ireland's centralized genealogical records. Here are the major sources of information: *The Manuscripts Reading Room in the National Library, Kildare Street, Dublin 2 (Tel 01/603-0200; wli.ie) has an extensive collection of pre-1880 Catholic records of baptisms, births, and marriages. *The General Register Office, Joyce House, 8/11 Lombard St. E., Dublin 2 ([tel] 01/635-4000; wroireland.ie), is the central repository for records relating to births, deaths, and marriages in the Republic. *The Registry of Deeds, Kings Inns, Henrietta Street, Dublin 1 ([tel] 01/670-7500; fax 01/804-8406; wrlgov.ie/landreg), has records that date from 1708 and relate to all the usual transactions affecting property--that means leases, mortgages, and settlements and some wills. That should be enough to sink your teeth into. Happy hunting! _______________________ Pensacola, FL: Is it safe to stay overnight in B&Bs in Northern Ireland (specifically around the Giant's Causeway region)? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: Perfectly safe. Enjoy your visit! _______________________ Alexandria, VA: I am planning my first trip to Ireland in October for a friend's wedding in Waterford. We are giving ourselves about ten days, a few before and a few after, to explore Kinsale, Galway, etc. and I was wondering if there is a website you would suggest for driving directions/tourist routes/hotels? Thanks! Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: I'd invest in a good guidebook to help choose your itinerary and find accommodation and places to eat. (Again, I'll recommend Frommer's Ireland 2004). For driving directions, try aaroadwatch.ie. It's run by the AA (Irish equivalent of the AAA in the US). The website has a cool device that lets you enter your departure and destination, and then it spits out very thorough, no-brainer directions. Have a great trip! _______________________ Ormond Beach, FL: My wife and I and two other couples wish to rent a house somewhere in Ireland later this year. Best month? Best location for first timers? We love green, walking, pubs, interesting things. Tips on where to go for research? Thanks very much for your response. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: For groups like yours, I always recommend self-catering properties that are available for short-term rental. Two good sources are rentacottage.ie and selfcateringireland.ie. But my first choice would be to rent a property through the Irish Landmark Trust (Tel 01/670-4733; wrishlandmark.com). I can'' say enough about this outfit. It'' a non-profit organization whose mission is to restore neglected, historically significant properties and rent them out as self-catering accommodation. I have stayed in many of their properties, which range from a lighthouse in Wicklow, to lighthouse keepers''houses on the southwest coast, to 19th-century land agent'' homes in Donegal, to historic farmhouse in Kilkenny, to a Gothic gate lodge on vast estate in Cork, and so on. Each of them is a very special place and beautifully appointed with period furnishings, but they all feel comfortable and homey, not museum-ish. And because the ILT is non-profit, the rates are quite reasonable for the level of comfort and space you get. The property I have in mind for a group like yours is Clomantagh Castle, in Kilkenny. It's'a huge, rambling farmhouse sleeps 10 and is ideal. The complex of buildings at Clomantagh includes the ruins of a 12th-century church and an early-15th-century crenellated tower house, which is attached to an 18th-century farmhouse. There are four large double bedrooms in the farmhouse, with a connecting staircase leading to a fifth wonderfully medieval double bedroom in the tower itself (You'l' be fighting over who gets to sleep in that room!). The decor throughout the house is pleasingly old-fashioned and rustic, with many fine period pieces and brass beds. There are several reception rooms, but the house's'beating heart is the enormous, old-fashioned country kitchen with a flagstone floor, timbered ceiling, and Stanley range. Kilkenny City is only about 20 minutes away by car. _______________________ Morgantown, PA: I am looking for the best advice when it comes to working in Ireland. I live state-side and have this dream of living and working in Ireland. I have vacationed there twice in the past year and have this overwhelming desire to relocate and experience a new culture. Ideally I would like a job and then move to Ireland, rather than the other way around. I also understand it's favorable to have a company sponsor you to ensure passage into another country and legality of living abroad.(if not a resident). Can you offer up any suggestions? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: There's the official version of how the expat life works, and then there's, well, reality. As a tourist, you're entitled to stay in Ireland for up to 90 days without additional paperwork. Since I have been living in Europe (France for 7 years, Ireland for 4), I have met more people than I can count who manage to live abroad without a visa simply by making sure they leave the country before the maximum 90 days has expired, then return again shortly thereafter. The drawbacks to this way of life are obvious; life under the table means that you're forever limited to low-paying jobs where employers look the other way when it comes to visas. Also, you're living outside the system, so your rights are minimized on many fronts, including access to the health system. If you're thinking of spending just a year in Ireland, this red-tape-bypass approach may appeal to you. But if you're hoping to move to Ireland for several years or more, I suggest doing everything you can to get a work visa. In assessing your application, the Irish government will look for evidence that you can support yourself, either through employment or sufficient funds of support (you''l need bank statements, proof of assets, etc.) for the duration of your stay. On the face of it, it's a Catch-22: You can't get a job without a visa, and you can'' get a visa without a job. Still, in my experience, people who really want to live abroad find a way to make it happen. If you're looking for a job, start by contacting American companies with offices in Ireland. You can get a list from the American Chamber of Commerce Ireland at wmcham.ie. For visa info, consult the Irish Embassy in Washington, D.C. at wrelandemb.org/living.html. Living abroad is a wonderfully enriching experience on so many levels. I wish you the best of luck! _______________________ Albany, NY: My family (15 of us) will be going to Ireland in late July, touring along the coast from Dublin to Kilarney. Those who have already been there are not keen on Cork as a destination but some people say it is much nicer than it was. Do you recommend taking time to visit Cork? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: I am biased, because my husband is from Cork and we've had a wonderful times there. We were even married in West Cork, and I consider it one of the three prettiest regions in Ireland. And it's got some fabulous restaurants sprinkled everywhere, which is another reason to go. I'd even go so far to say (and my Dublin friends will kill me for this) that I would recommend visiting Cork before Dublin. Fly into Cork, drive out into West Cork, then up through Kenmare and into Killarney that way. Magical. _______________________ Alexandria,VA: I am visiting The Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland in July 2004. I heard that I can get the Value Added Tax (VAT) refunded. Where do you submit this request, at the airport only? Can I download forms off an official web site? Must I submit this prior to leaving either country? Are there any additional taxes US Citizens may request for refund? Thanks! Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: There's a section in Frommer's Ireland 2004 where I discuss VAT strategies fairly extensively. You can access it online at frommers.com, by clicking "destinations." Find Ireland, then go to "planning your trip," and finally "tips on attractions and shopping." It tells you all you need to know. _______________________ Haslett, MI: I will only have two full days in Dublin, July 2nd and July 11th. The other time will be spent at Oideas Gael school. Are there any don't miss things I should do in Dublin with my limited time? Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: You'll love Oideas Gael! I took the Gaelic course three years in a row, and then I took the hillwalking (mountain hiking) course. Brilliant! Don't miss the Viking Splash Tour in Dublin. You take in all the major sites from an amphibious vehicle that drives, then swims, through Dublin. Much fun! _______________________ Hanford, CA: Since you're technically in 2 nations, is it a pain to rent a car in the south and also tour the north? I've heard some stories. Thanks. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: I have driven from the Republic to the North and back again on many occasions and never had a hint of difficulty. Go for it. _______________________ Atlanta, Georgia: What Jewish landmarks/sites are there in Ireland? Thank you. Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: As you probably realize, the Irish are overwhelmingly Roman Catholic so sites that specialize in Jewish heritage are thin on the ground. Even so, there's been a small Jewish community in Ireland for nearly a millennium! In Dublin, there's the Irish Jewish Museum on Walworth Rd (01/453-1797) and there's also an Old Jewish Cemetery in the city's Ballybough area. For more info, try jewishireland.com. _______________________ Suzanne Rowan Kelleher: Looks like my time is up. It was nice answering your questions! _______________________

Quebec City is a nesting box of treasures. Round a corner, open a door, or climb one of the city's 60 staircases to the top and you never know what you'll find--a quiet gallery of Inuit art, world-class musicians playing for passersby, a cart selling ice cream made from local wild strawberries. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a resident, Quebec City has the ability to charm at every turn. Travelers of all budgets and interests will find something to their liking in this special corner of Canada, whose story is symbolized on building edifices and letterhead everywhere in the form of a sacred regional trinity: a Canadian maple leaf, French fleur-de-lis, and English rose. Its European roots run very deep, back some 1,000 years. New France, Old France Many wax poetic about how European French-speaking Quebec City, and for good reason--it's the only walled city north of Mexico and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. The Old City, anchored by the imposing Chateau Frontenac (the most photographed hotel in the world), and historic port that spreads along the mighty, tidal waters of the St. Laurence River, are indeed reminiscent of France, each with enough ghosts and cobbled streets to conjure Old World visions. In fact, nowadays it often stands in as Europe for production companies that don't want to pay the way for crews to cross the pond. Taking Lives starring Angelina Jolie was the most recent movie to be filmed there. Despite it being a scenic backdrop and riding on its reputation of an historic wonderland, it's winning the fight against "Disneyfication." Quebec City is far from being a theme park. Rather, it's a living breathing city of nearly one million now, working hard to forge a modern identity beyond the ramparts and quaint Vieille Ville. It's succeeding, evidenced by the cosmopolitan cocktail lounges that now dot the fringes of the Old Port, the funky coffee shops of the new Quartier, the world-reknown jazz bars on St. Joseph's Street, and the skateboarding punks that like to hang out in the Place D'Youville. For centuries, Quebec City was one of the most important cities on the continent, and even went head-to-head against New York City as home of the United Nations. Walking around and speaking to people, however, you get the sense that the city is inching back onto the world stage. Local pride is at an all-time high, and no wonder. The economy is doing well; for many years graduates left for greater opportunities in Montreal or beyond, but now they're staying and building their professional lives closer to home. And, there's virtually no crime in Quebec City. Even during its Quiet Revolution in 1960 not a drop of blood was shed when local French Canadians fought for the same opportunities as their Anglo counterparts. And who wouldn't be proud of a city-wide art democratization mandate that states that one percent of public works' budgets must be used for art? When it comes to dining, you simply can't go wrong in Quebec City, a town that gave birth to the region's modern day gastronomic revolution in the 1930's. Even a casual, on-the-hoof snack of a street crepe made with local cheese, a slice of "sugar pie," or a crusty sandwich offer unexpected satisfaction. For those who venture beyond the popular pedestrian streets, other treats await. One very special place to eat is the ornate dining hall inside the Parliament Building (three-course lunches $15, dinner $40). Who knows, you may even eat next to the Premier. Another relatively unknown spot is the restaurant tucked inside the Musee National des Beaux Arts du Quebec, or fine art museum of Quebec where a three-course lunch also goes for $15. For drinks, try the simple pleasure of nursing a maple beer purchased at the oldest grocery store in North America, J.A. Moisan, located at 699 rue Saint-Jean. The unusual brew just won the prestigious Prix D'Innovation, or Innovation Prize, in Paris. L'Echaude Restaurant (http://www.echaude.com/, 73 rue Sault-au-Matelot) a 20-year-old bistro in the Old Port, which offers 10 wines by the glass (and a superb list of bottles), $10 three-course lunches called table d'hote ($16 for dinner), and the best steak tartare in the city, is another sure bet. And just down the street sits one of the city's most unusual hotels, L'Auberge Saint-Antoine, whose outstanding restaurant Panache officially opens this month. Whether you choose to stay at L'Auberge Saint-Antoine or not, a dinner by the artful chef Francoise Blais is mandatory during a visit to Quebec City. Blais's reverence for fresh ingredients and French Canadian cuisine shines through in every dish, creating a memorable festival of local flavors. A room to call your own in and around the Old City Summer is considered high season in Quebec City, but here are some good nightly lodging deals currently on offer (all prices are per room, not per person): $83--Battlefield's B&B $113--Hotel Le Saint Paul $122--Hotel Gouveneur Quebec $378--Chateau Le Frontenac $82--One night at the Best Western Hotel Aristocrat, breakfast for two, entry to the Musee National des Beaux Arts du Quebec (regularly priced at $7.50). Until Aug. 29 there's an impressive exhibition of Picasso's ceramics. $101--Same as above but with stays at the Hotel Manoir Victoria $112--Same as above but with stays at the Courtyard Marriott Quebec $115--One night at the Hotel Clarendon in the old city, dinner, breakfast in bed, and chocolates $177--One night at Loews Le Concorde in a room overlooking the St. Laurence River, and breakfast buffet $162--One night at the modern Hotel Quartier, two American-style breakfasts, and two passes to the elaborate Valcartier Village water park (regularly US$18). *This offer is valid until Aug. 31. $260--One night at the famed Chateau Le Frontenac and buffet breakfast for two on its grand terrace. Walking into the L'Auberge Saint-Antoine is like walking into a museum, only the reception is much, much warmer. The 83-room hotel, which is located in the Old Port and blessedly just off some of the city's well-tread tourist paths, opened in 1992 in three historic buildings on an archeological site that yielded some 5,000 artifacts. Four-hundred of them are on view in the hotel's common spaces and even in the rooms themselves. Each floor represents a layer of excavation, and each room identified by its own treasure. Etched aperitif glasses used by visiting diplomats in the early 1800's may be embedded in your nightstand, or a Chinese porcelain cup used in the mid-1700's neatly displayed by your room door. Appropriately, Saint Anthony is the patron saint of travelers and lost things. The hotel is owned, designed, and curated by the Price family, who first landed in Quebec two centuries ago to build a logging and paper business. The familial hands-on approach is part of the hotel's unique, intimate appeal. Airy public spaces reveal whimsical touches, and the newer rooms especially, are a successful marriage history and modern design, with sleek fireplaces, sumptuous fabrics, and bathtubs big enough for three. Rates at L'Auberge Saint-Antoine start at USD $142 (for a Classic room) midweek in mid-August. All prices include a homespun buffet breakfast in the hotel's tea salon-lounge. The feedback about L'Auberge Saint-Antoine on Tripadvisor.com, a website repository for unbiased reviews of hotels, is nothing short of glowing. One guest from Boston writes, "I loved it. It was the best hotel I ever stayed in." Even a resident of France, a country that overflows with inviting hotels, reported that it was one of the most charming places they've ever stayed. Flying into the great green north Getting to Quebec Ctiy is easy and affordable these days--this was not always the case. Here's a short list of the lowest airfares to Quebec City available for travel mid-August: $220--New York City (Continental) NONSTOP $260--Boston (Air Canada) $296--Philadelphia (Air Canada) $334--Chicago (Northwest) $386--Atlanta (Air Canada) $384--Miami (Air Canada) $467--Los Angeles (Air Canada) Given that most flights from the US to Quebec City have to pass through the bigger metropolis of Montreal, on occasion it can be worth your while to price round-trip tickets from your home airport, and then by a ticket on a flight offered by one of Canada's low-cost carriers. For example, Tango, Air Canada's no-frills little sister, has each-way fares as low as US $44 between Montreal and Quebec City. Air Canada itself has 16 flights per day from Montreal to Quebec City, and there are two nonstop flights between Detroit and Quebec City too. (Remember to convert your prices into US dollars when searching for flights on Canadian airlines.) JetsGo, one of Canada's newest cheap seat flyers, has yet to add Quebec City to its list of international destinations. It does fly between New York City, Las Vegas, Orlando, Ft. Lauderdale, and Ft. Myers and Montreal however, with one-way tickets as low as $99. Border crossing by rail Another way to go is by train. If you've got the time and enjoy watching the wooded scenery and the world go by, this option may be more your speed. Until Oct. 2, VIA Rail Canada is selling discounted tickets on Saturday travel in the Quebec-Windsor corridor: Windsor (Detroit) - Toronto - Montreal - Quebec City. Economy class fares normally priced between $14 and $70 are reduced by 50 percent. This offer is not limited to students and seniors--everyone can take advantage of the offer. And parents can also take 50 percent regular kid fares. Four trains a day run between Montreal and Quebec City, and the ride lasts about three hours. Fares between the two cities average $25, but with the VIA Rail's sale, you're looking at spending just $12 each way. Unfortunately, train fares between US cities and Quebec are not so cheap. For example, Amtrak charges $65 each way between New York City and Montreal, where travelers can connect with VIA Rail trains, and $140 round-trip. Expect even more from other cities.

Ever since Bogey and Bacall sailed away to Key Largo, the string of coral islands at the southern tip of Florida has captured the imagination of Americans with its promise of romance, breezes, and sparkling waters. Unfortunately, this bit of paradise doesn't come cheap, with glorified motels often charging in the mid-hundreds even in low season. This is most true in the most famous, and admittedly the prettiest, of the islands: Key West, that Victorian-era seafaring town that has lured artists, boaters, and colorful misfits alike for well over a century. Well, shady lanes and dollhouse inns are nice places to park your bags, but as proud tightwads we prefer to bunk and eat elsewhere in the Keys and check out the charms of Key West as a day trip. That being said, elsewhere in the Keys the gougers still outnumber the bargains by far, but we've identified the very best deals up and down Overseas Highway (also known as U.S. 1, the spine of these parts), with delightful rooms running as low as $45 and delicious dinners under $10. But first, a reality check: If visions of endless beaches and sugary sands are dancing in your head, the Florida Keys has something different in store. Some sand--in reality, eroded coral reef--but it tends to be coarse and the mangroves hugging much of the coastline can turn the water brackish. What these teeny tiny islands do offer is glorious scenery, wildlife, and some of America's best fishing, boating, snorkeling, scuba diving at some of the planet's most important reef systems. Which is not to say that all who come are marine maniacs: long and lazy days of sunning, reading, and swimming pool action are high on many a visitor's list. To get here, the best option is to fly on one of many budget airlines--JetBlue, Southwest, AirTran, Song--into Miami. Fort Lauderdale is usually cheaper, but adds about forty minutes to your drive down. Then rent a car (most run about $150 a week in high season, less on Priceline.com). The Florida Turnpike offers an uneventful 35-mile drive down through Homestead and Florida City, on the edge of the Everglades wilderness. From there, U.S. 1 threads another 30 miles through wetlands to Key Largo, the first and largest of the Florida Keys; from there it's another 100 miles or so to the end of the line--Mile Marker 0--in Key West. The highway skips from island to island, often alongside the crumbling railbed of the original overseas railway, built in 1912. Although the whole archipelago only takes about two hours to drive, choose your base depending on your tastes: diving (stay on Key Largo in the Upper Keys), history and culture (near Key West in the Lower Keys), or tropical seclusion (try any of the Middle Keys). The upper Keys Stretching 40 miles from Key Largo down to Tavernier and Islamorada, the Upper Keys offer convenience (decent shopping, near the mainland), as well as the terrific John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park ($2.50/person, Mile Marker 102.5, Key Largo, 305/451-1621). America's first underwater state park, it has a decent beach, nature trails through fascinating mangrove swamps, and stunning coral reefs where you can snorkel, scuba, or take a glass-bottom boat on the crystal-clear water. Stop also at the Florida Keys Wild Bird Center ($5 per car, MM 93.6, 305/852-4486, fkwbc.org/) for a stroll through its tropical hammock forest and a chance to see endangered local birds (pelicans, osprey) being nursed back to health. Islamorada is also one of the few places in the Keys where boaters have easy access to both the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico (Marathon and Key West are two others). For more serious nature lovers, a day trip 28 miles north to the Everglades National Park (enter via Florida City) offers a chance to see not just alligators and all manner of bird life, but also what South Florida was like before the arrival of cars and strip malls. Among the few reasonably priced lodgings hereabouts, three properties stand out: First as you drive south on Islamorada, at MM 99.5 are next-door neighbors Sunset Cove Resort (877/451-0705, sunsetcovebeachresort.com/) and the Hungry Pelican Resort (305/541-3576, hungrypelican.com/), two Gulfside getaways. They offer shaded, quirky bungalows within walking distance to the shops and eateries in town. Most are $65 to $90 with a range of amenities; some have kitchens, but count on AC, cable, and free breakfast. Sunset Cove, in particular, evokes the Keys' free-spirited vibe with its whimsical animal sculptures--lions, rearing bears, a big brontosaurus--dotting the grounds. At MM 86.6, turn left at the giant roadside lobster for the Ragged Edge Resort (243 Treasure Harbor Rd., MM 86.6; 800/436-2023, 305/852-5389, ragged-edge.com/), a cute Tahitian-style motel consisting of 11 simple but clean cottages on the ocean starting at $79. The grassy, sprawling property is a perfect place for birdwatching on the raised deck or unwinding by the oceanfront heated fresh-water pool. At MM85, Drop Anchor Resort, operated by owners that put value in quiet, good taste, and affordability, is a real find (305/664-4863, dropanchorresort.com/), offering 18 cottages and motel units with a pool (50s vintage but redone with a cool Caribbean flair), all with fridges and AC, on a 300-foot sandy beach beneath a coconut grove. Units are $70 to $95 depending on season and rise to $90 to $115 for the deluxe oceanfront apartments. Finally, divers should head for Kelly's On the Bay (104220 Overseas Highway, at MM104.2, Key Largo; 800/226-0415, aqua-nuts.com/), a full-service resort with a peppy staff where 34 fresh rooms start at $80 in the high winter season and go down to $70 in low. One-day scuba instruction costs $150 per person, including a boat trip. If you're already certified, dives on its custom boats' two daily departures will cost $22 to $30 per person, including tanks and weights, depending on how many you buy in advance. Snorkeling is $25 a trip. For good grub at a fair price, try Steve's Time Out Barbecue (101 Palm Avenue, at MM81.5, Islamorada; 305/664-8911), a simple, red-and-white-checkered-tablecloth kinda joint wafting with mouthwatering smells. Its menu is heavy on barbecue, of course, and the best deal may be the "triple header" combo platter with pork, beef, and pulled chicken, served with garlic bread, cole slaw, and a choice of baked beans or fries--all for $9.59. Since Havana is just 90 miles from Key West across the straits, the area is suffused with Cuban culture. The Marlin (10277 Overseas Highway, at MM102.5, Key Largo; 305/451-2454) serves Cuban delights such as picadillo, ground beef in a light tomato sauce with olives, capers, and raisins, for $6,including a choice of two sides. There's also fresh seafood on the order of blackened dolphin (the fish, not the mammal) for $10, again with two sides. Papa Joe's (70701 Overseas Highway, MM 79.3, 305/664-5005), a Jimmy Buffet-style marina-side bar, is a well-known place to sit on the water with a beer, a cup of conch chowder ($2.95) and its signature grouper reuben ($7.95). The one place not to miss, however, is the quirky Alabama Jack's (58000 Card Sound Rd.; 305/248-8741), located 25 minutes north of Key Largo on a quiet road through Card Sound, but worth the detour. This rustic melting pot, overlooking a mangrove-lined channel teeming with colorful fish and birds, is a trip back to a simpler time. The thing here is bodacious plates of fried grouper or legendary conch fritters, both served with two sides for $7.95. Try to stop by on weekend afternoons for the live country western band and fun mixed crowd. The middle Keys Keep alert on the road as you head southwest from Islamorada, for the views of the open sky and the sea are dotted with green islands, swooping pelicans, and shades of blue you never imagined. Highlights of this area include Pigeon Key, with a small museum and historical buildings dating to the construction of Henry Flagler's railroad; an audience with dolphins--the mammal, not the fish--at the Dolphin Research Center on Grassy Key ($17.50 but worth it; book plenty early if you want to book a personal swim with the creatures, 305/289-1121, dolphins.org/); the lovely Sombrero Beach at MM 50 on Marathon; and the amazing Seven Mile Bridge (actually a causeway) leading south of Marathon to the Lower Keys--as beautiful a drive as you'll find anywhere in America. Possibly the finest budget place to stay in the Florida Keys, the just-renovated Lime Tree Bay Resort (MM 68.5, Layton, Long Key; 800/723-4519; limetreebayresort.com/) could easily charge twice as much for its 31 sparkling and professionally-decorated rooms--but let's not tell them that. For a place that looks and feels like a small luxe resort, the rates are mindblowing: $79 for waterfront motel-style rooms in low season, $102 in high. There's also a great pool and jacuzzi overlooking the Gulf of Mexico, tennis courts, on-site watersports, and a sandy sunning beach with coral rock formations. Another excellent choice, the laid-back and basic Bonefish Bay Motel (12565 Overseas Highway, at mile marker 53.5, Marathon Shores; 800/336-0565, 305/743-7107, bonefish.com/) sits near the picturesque Bonefish Flats, where you can angle, not surprisingly, for bonefish. Don't confuse it with the similarly named, but crummy, "Resort" five miles up the road. Rates range $49 (simple rooms in fall) to $99 (one-bedroom efficiencies in peak season); there's a pool, free bikes, a dock, and a helpful staff. Finally, budget-minded fishing folk are lured, so to speak, by the Kingsail Resort Motel (7050 Overseas Highway, at MM 50.5, Marathon; 800/423-7474), featuring simple but pleasant motel rooms with phone, cable TV, screened porches, and AC for $55 to $69 in summer and $95 to $109 in winter. There's also a freshwater pool, a boat ramp, and docking, not to mention an outdoor grill for cooking up your day's catch. Speaking of cooking, the Middle Keys harbor really good budget options; Try the authentic Cuban fare at Don Pedro (11399 Overseas Highway, at MM 53, Marathon; 305/743-5247), a simple but pleasant joint where Ana and Miguel whip up entrees as low as $4.25 (chicken tenders and fries) and no higher than $9.95 (stuffed shrimp); don't miss its powerful $1.00 café cubano. Also not to miss, the beloved 7-Mile Grill (1240 Overseas Highway, Marathon; 305/743-4481), located just before the Seven Mile Bridge, is a salty-old-timey-open-air-big-beach-shack-with-sassy-waitresses kinda place, where $9.95 gets you a wide selection of fresh seafood (stuffed crabs, shrimp, conch fritters) served with two sides. Sandwiches are $3.25 to $6.95, and most locals herald its key lime pie ($3.25) as the very best in the Keys--and they know from key lime pie. The lower Keys Apart from the unparalleled drive over the Seven Mile Bridge, the main attraction in the Lower Keys is, of course, Key West, the only real city in the entire island chain, with its sizeable old town chockful of lovingly-restored gingerbread Victorian homes, and honky-tonk Duval Street. The big resorts there are pricey (see sidebar for alternatives). You will find much less expensive options, however, on the islands leading up to it. The best of these include the 524-acre, Bahia Honda State Park on Big Pine Key (30 miles before Key West), with its unusual flora and fauna, tidal lagoons, and long sandy beach, periodically named America's best; the Key Deer Refuge on Big Pine Key, with its adorable dog-sized deer (http://nationalkeydeer.fws.gov/); the superb diving at Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary; and the usual panoply of watersports. As for lodging, this stretch of the Keys is home to another star, the 45-unit Parmer's Resort (565 Barry Avenue, off MM 28.5, Little Torch Key; 305/872-2157,parmersresort.com/), a collection of pastel cottages on five tropical acres right on the Gulf. Its well-decorated, simple rooms, running $85 to $95 in high season and $65 to $75 in low, are an awesome bargain, considering the varied complimentary breakfast, bayfront swimming pool, aviaries scattered among wooded walkways, genuinely sweet staff, and boat basins and dockage. Less expensive but still quite pleasant, the Caribbean Village (1211 Overseas Highway, at MM 10.7, Big Coppitt Key; 305/296-9542) consists of three pretty pastel-colored Caribbean-style cottages with its own tiny sunning beach and dock. The plain but cheerful rooms start at $45 in low season, going up to $95 in high, though for ten more bucks, it's more fun to stay on one of the two docked houseboats. Perhaps one of the best ideas is renting one of the six-person cabins maintained by the state at Bahia Honda State Park (36850 Overseas Highway, Big Pine Key, MM 37, bahiahondapark.com/, reserve through 800/326-3521). Built on stilts above a pristine mangrove-lined inlet, they come with everything you need (linens, equipped kitchens, decks with grills and outdoor showers, AC and heat). All that costs just $85/night in the fall and $110 at other times, so it shouldn't surprise you that they book up early. For eats, Julio's Grill at Looe Key Reef Resort (27340 Overseas Highway, at MM 27.5, Ramrod Key, 305/872-2215) serves simple fare on the order of salads, sandwiches and seafood platters, the most expensive of which is the yummy $6.95 shrimp cooked in garlic with home fries. A more expansive menu is served at Shark's Reef Saloon (31095 Avenue A, at MM31, Big Pine Key, 305/872-9000), a quintessentially Keys baitshop-looking place with a long bar, pool tables, and a salty local crowd munching down on competently-executed dinner entrees ranging from $7.95 (country-fried steak) to $9.95 (an 8-ounce New York strip), all served with a choice of soup or salad, plus potato and vegetable. Finally, the nicest and perhaps most authentic budget-level option in the Lower Keys is the Key Deer Bar & Grill (28974 Overseas Highway, near MM31, Big Pine Key; 305/872-1014). Cozy and warm, it sports warm pine paneling, beamed ceilings, and whirring fans, not to mention the chance to meet a (stuffed) Florida panther close-up. It serves excellent pizzas (from $4.95), as well as pasta dinners (mussels marinara over linguine) with salad and garlic toast for $9.95 or less; the blackened chicken breast platter is also a winner at $8.95. For official information, call 800/352-5397 or go to fla-keys.com/

Perhaps you've always wanted to sail down the Nile, or drink tea with a carpet trader in Fez. Or maybe you dream of camel rides through the Sahara, laced with lazy evenings at lush oases. Whatever fantasies you harbor about that spectacular trip to the Middle East, chances are they've been on hold for the past couple of years. But that doesn't mean you should miss out on everything the region has to offer. More than 150,000 immigrants of Egyptian, Palestinian, Lebanese, Moroccan and other origins live in New York, making up one of the country's most vibrant Arab communities. In just one short weekend here, you can fill up on Syrian sweets, dance to live Algerian rai, smoke an Egyptian hookah and have enough money left to buy a Turkish trinket or two for the folks back home. Heavenly hummus, plate loads of pita The best way to start a Middle Eastern weekend in New York is with a delicious breakfast at Mogador Cafe, a Moroccan fixture popular with a hip, bohemian crowd. Mogador's big draw is a superb $9.95 prix fixe brunch, but I prefer a plate of perfection modestly labeled Middle Eastern eggs ($6.50): two eggs cooked any style served with creamy hummus; tangy tabouleh made with bulgur, parsley and tomatoes; chopped salad; and pita sprinkled with olive oil and thyme. (Mogador Cafe, 101 Saint Marks Place. 212-677-2226). For dinner, try Moustache, a casual Arabic eatery considered by many to be the best of its kind in Manhattan. Moustache's hot, fluffy pita works as a delightful scoop for their mezzeh appetizers such as smoky babaganoush ($4.50) or lentil salad ($4.50). Their entrees are mouthwatering too; try the baby lamb ribs, served juicy and tender with salad on the side ($13). Prepare for a long line at the West Village branch. (Moustache: 265 East 10th Street. 212-228-2022 / 90 Bedford Street. 212-229-2220) Just a few blocks away, the same owners have introduced a slightly more upscale Middle Eastern experience to the neighborhood. Named after a dynasty of former Turkish slaves who ruled Egypt from the 13th to 16th centuries, Mamlouk lavishes diners with a $30 six course meal. Let yourself be transported by the Arabic fusion tunes and a tasteful decor of lanterns, cushions and tiles, and be sure to book a table in advance because there are only two seatings per night. (Mamlouk 211 East 4th Street. 212-529-3477) An abundance of art The biggest thrill of any trip to the Middle East comes from its legacy as the so-called "cradle of civilization." Settled for more than five millennia by nations whose scientific and architectural achievements continue to baffle today, the region boasts a spectacular wealth of tradition and culture not to be missed. The best spot in New York to catch a glimpse of this old splendor is the Metropolitan Museum of Art (suggested donation $12), which houses one of the world's largest Ancient Egyptian collections. While there's no Pyramid to pose in front of here, the dazzling display of jewelry, mummies and paintings takes you to the same magical world inhabited by gods and Pharaohs thousands of years ago. You can even stroll through the Temple of Dendur, a 2,000-year old ruin which has been perfectly perserved in an especially built extension overlooking Central Park. For a more recent example of Middle Eastern art, check out the Met's intricately decorated Nur al-Din Room. Plucked from a wealthy Syrian home in the 1700's, it boasts ornate wooden panels decorated with gilded Koranic inscriptions, and a beautiful colored marble floor. (Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1000 Fifth Avenue. 212-535-7710) If it's contemporary art you're after, make a call to Alwan. One the most active Arab cultural venues in town, Alwan puts on several shows a week at its modest facilities in the financial district, featuring anything from traditional music concerts to poetry readings and photography exhibits .Admission usually costs $20 or less and you're almost guaranteed to catch some pretty good artists. (Alwan, 16 Beaver Street. 646-473-0991) Arabian nights Middle Eastern nightlife in New York revolves around three key elements: live music-much of it fusion jazz or modern rai (an infectious kind of rock developed by North African immigrants in France), hookahs (water pipes used for smoking fruit-flavored tobacco), and belly dancing. Tagine, a Moroccan restaurant with a lousy kitchen and a great bar, books some excellent bands and belly dancers. Friday and Saturday nights are packed, so call ahead.(Tagine Dining Gallery: 537 9th Avenue, 212-564-7292, $15 cover most nights.) For a more atmospheric, albeit slightly pretentious spot to watch a belly dancer, head to Casa La Femme, a lavish Egyptian restaurant on the Upper East Side. Brace yourself for bankrupting cocktails ($12 and up), but the ambience is hard to beat: cushions lie scattered about, tents line the walls, and cool Arab drum beats weave their way through the crowd. (Casa La Femme. 1076 First Avenue, 212-505-0005) If you're in the mood for some mellower entertainment, try Cafe Cairo, where you can play chess, backgammon or dominoes for hours, sipping tea or coffee and listening to Egyptian street pop from a rickety stereo. Definitely sample the hookah ($10), a water pipe used for smoking tobacco soaked in fruit syrups. Traditional flavors include strawberry, apple and honey, although novelties like cola and cappuccino are making the rounds now too. (Cafe Cairo. 189 East Houston Street, 212-529-2923) Shopping, shopping and more shopping What's an exotic vacation to the ends of the earth without some souvenirs to prove you were there? From elegant kilim rugs to coffee beans scooped from large burlap sacks, New York's Middle Eastern stores stock gifts for every budget. If you just have a few dollars to spare, check out Brooklyn's Atlantic Avenue. Dotted with Arab video stores, travel agencies and delis whose windows are stacked with imported treats, Atlantic Avenue serves as a popular shopping drag for Brooklyn's large Arab contingent. Sahadi, famous for its eclectic selection of dried nuts, grains and spices, is a New York landmark where you can also buy old fashioned candy and a variety of olives by weight. (Sahadi Importing Company, 187 Atlantic Avenue. 718-624-4550) A few doors up, Damascus Bakery churns out hundreds of pitas every day for sale to many of the city's restaurants and supermarkets. Eastern pastries make great gifts because they stay fresh for a long time, so load up on baklava or konafa ($2), a dessert of crispy angel-hair filled with nuts and soaked in fragrant syrup. (Damascus Bread and Pastry Shop. 195 Atlantic Avenue. 718-625-7070) For a shopping experience that's easier on the hips, visit Tribal Concepts, a crammed, winding store that feels like a real oriental bazaar. From hand-painted Turkish bowls and evil eye ornaments made of blue and white glass, to Afghan runners and upholstered chests, this established Upper West Sider offers good value for the money and some really beautiful goods. (Tribal Concepts. 231 West 58th Street. 212-957-6504.)