The world's finest bus routes for sightseeing

After hours of nothing but deep-blue sea and the occasional cloud, at last it appears from the plane window: an improbable crop of jagged, green peaks descending to white sands below. As if the eye isn't drawn already, a brilliant-turquoise lagoon glowingly outlines the oval-shaped isle's every curve. Welcome to Rarotonga, which, despite being the largest and most visited of the Cook Islands, is that rarest of finds-a safe, pristine, and (best of all) affordable South Pacific escape. The term "tropical paradise" is overused to the point of meaninglessness, but there's something unusually idyllic and unspoiled here. It's not just the climate (heavenly-similar to Hawaii); or th e attractive, friendly natives (at first glance, indistinguishable from other Polynesians); or the local accent (Kiwi-esque thanks to big brother New Zealand). After a quick look around, there's an odd sense that something is missing. Then it hits your brand-name-addled brain. Unlike nearly every other place on the globe, the Cook Islands are not shackled with chains (hotels and fast-food chains, that is). No KFC or McDonald's; no Hilton, Hyatt, or Holiday Inn. How have Cook Islanders held corporate interests at bay? For one, tight-knit communities led by the House of Ariki, or tribal chiefs, shape the moral, cultural, and economic landscapes. Crime is nearly nonexistent. Most natives speak both English and Cook Islands Maori in everyday life. Plus, there's the land situation. Self-governing since 1965 (but still closely tied to New Zealand), the Cook Islands is a relative newcomer to tourism, its international airport opening in 1974. Learning from the mistakes of Polynesia n brethren who sold out to corporations decades prior, it established early on that all land would be family-owned and never sold (though it can be leased for up to 60 years, after community approval). As a result, there are scads of family-owned hotels, restaurants, and backpacker hangouts, all of reasonable size and price, in sharp contrast to the gargantuan, expensive resorts ubiquitous elsewhere in the Tropics. The culture also fosters other welcome rarities for beach retreats: Tipping is not encouraged, haggling is considered rude, and aggressive sales tactics are ruder still. Once one arrives-and admittedly, getting here requires a fair amount of time and money-you find hassle-free, inexpensive, laid-back living at its finest. Hostel beds cost as little as $10. Beachfront bungalows are $100. Entire two-bedroom homes rent for as little as $450 a week. These prices would be decent as is, but the kicker is that they're all quoted in the local currency (New Zealand dollars) , meaning Americans can effectively slice them in half (NZ$1=US$.53). Surprising as it seems, Yanks can pay around $5 for hostel beds, $53 for bungalows, $235 a week for home rentals, all within stumbling distance of the sparkling South Pacific. (Unless stated otherwise, prices in this article are in U.S. dollars.) Rarotonga revealed Rarotonga is the biggest and most populated of the Cook Islands (home to about half of its 21,000 residents), but the entire coastline is circled in less than an hour's leisurely drive (20 miles around). Road signs are few and there are no street addresses, but the place is so small it's easy to find one's way around. (From the United States, first dial 011-682 for all numbers.) Rarotonga is divided into several villages, but Avarua, just east of the airport, is really the only town in all the Cook Islands. Even so, it's only a few blocks big, with a single roundabout, no traffic lights, and a handful of understated storefronts and eateries. Sh opping for black pearls (a regional specialty) is popular, but prices vary widely, so shop around before buying. Though somewhat redundant, there are two national museums in town, the Library and Museum of the Cook Islands (Makea Tinirau Rd., 20-748) and the National Museum (Victoria Rd., 20-725). Both request a donation for admission (NZ$1 is reasonable) and provide a glimpse into the local religions, traditions, and culture. Every visitor should make a trip around the island, either via the coastal Ara Tapu road or the older Are Metua interior road. All drivers need a Cook Islands license, a cute but pointless souvenir that costs $5.30 for cars and mopeds, available at the police station in Avarua (22-499). If heading to the outer island Aitutaki, get your license there for $1.30. Budget (20-895, budget.co.ck) and Avis (22-833, avis.co.ck) have several locations, with cars renting for around $31 a day, mopeds for $12, and bicycles for $4.20. Rarotonga Rentals (22-3 26) often undercuts the competition (mopeds for $6.90 a day on weekly rentals), but scout out each because they all offer specials. Two buses run around the island during the daytime, one clockwise, one counterclockwise, costing $1.30 one way, $2.10 round trip. Taxis cost at least $10.50. Many lodgings, including low-end properties, provide free airport pickup for guests. Christian missionaries descended on the Cook Islands some two centuries ago, and their influence is still seen today. Most Cook Islanders attend Sunday mass, and sprinkled around the island are white-stone churches dating from the mid-1800s. Also curious are the above-ground cemetery plots found in the yards of ramshackle cinder-block homes. When relatives pass away, it's a Cook Islands tradition to bury them in the yard so that their spirit can watch over the family and vice versa. Inland, there are banana and "pawpaw" (papaya) plantations, braced up against steep, green peaks. Touring on one's own is easy and safe, but a guide will give context to the scenery. For a rugged, four-wheel-drive tour of the interior, try Raro Safari Tours (23-629, rarosafaritours.co.ck), lasting about three hours, for $31. Several hiking trails wind through the mountainous interior, including the popular cross-island trek that passes by the "Needle," a huge, dramatic stone jutting out of the island center. Trails are often overgrown with greenery and sometimes downright treacherous, so a guide makes sense. Pa's Treks (21-079) has a monopoly on guided hikes, charging $29 for a half day with lunch. For a bird's-eye view of the island, hop aboard an Air Rarotonga flight (22-888, airraro.com) for $34. Getting wet is essential in the Cook Islands. With four small islands offshore and powdery-soft sand, the east coast's Muri Beach is unanimously regarded as the best on Rarotonga. Captain Tama's AquaSportz Centre (27-350) offers half-day lagoon cruises with snorkeling and lunch for $31 and rents kayaks and snorkeling gear for $2.65 each, sailboards for $7.85. Because of the reefs ringing Rarotonga, snorkeling is quite good but can be dangerous in spots, so ask around before taking the plunge. Normally a pricey activity, scuba diving is a bargain for Americans thanks to the exchange rate. Greg Wilson has run Cook Island Divers (22-483) for 30 years, charging $37 for one-tank dives (an extra $10.45 for equipment) and $266 for four-day certification courses, all with transportation from your hotel. Similar provisions in Hawaii or the Caribbean cost double, if not more. A bounty of affordable beds There is a giddiness among Cook Islands visitors; put into words it's something like, "Can you believe how beautiful this place is? And how cheap?" Nowhere is this felt more than at the many family-run lodgings. At the low end are the backpacker flophouses with too few amenities to be accredited by Cook Islands Tourism. Aunty Noo's (21-253, in Arorangi ) charges only $5.30 for a bed, but the water has been known to shut off periodically. A step up are the accredited hostels, the newest and nicest of which is Rarotonga Backpackers (21-590, rarotongabackpackers.com), a handsome hillside lodge that charges $10.45 for dorm beds, $23 for doubles (shared bath). Right on Muri Beach is Vara's Beach House (23-156, varas.co.ck), the largest assemblage of affordable rentals, priced $10.45 for dorms, $25 for doubles, and $53 for beachfront bungalows. "Self-catering" accommodations, with private bath and kitchen, are found in abundance. The Paradise Inn (20-544) has clean rooms and a deck overlooking Avarua Harbour, running $30 single, $51 double. On a quiet stretch of rocky coast north of Muri Beach is the Sunrise Beach Motel (20-417, sunrise.co.ck); eight private bungalows rent for $56 to $64 a night. Gracious owners Peter and Caryn Elphick invite guests to use the pool and barbecue for get-togethers. Home rentals are a b est friend to small groups on a budget. A poor job market causes thousands of Cook Islanders to leave for better wages abroad. Homes left behind rent for as little as $235 a week for a small two-bedroom away from the beach. A beachfront home runs around $522 per week. Contact Rarotonga Realty (26-664, rarorealty.co.ck), Shekinah Holiday Homes (26-004, shekinahhomes.com), or visit the Cook Islands Web site, cook-islands.com, for more information. What's cooking? Unfortunately, the same combination of quality and price doesn't translate to the cuisine. Almost all food has to be shipped in, and prices reflect the transportation costs. Still, visitors pay less for meals than in Hawaii or Tahiti, on average. Since prices are fairly even at Rarotonga restaurants (main courses for $10 to $16; pick one with an ocean view, like Trader Jack's (26-464) in Avarua or Sails Restaurant (27-349) at Muri Beach. Worth the splurge is a dinner cultural show. They're sim ilar to luaus in Hawaii, with music, grass skirts, and coconut-shell bikini tops, but the dancing is more passionate and provocative. Dinner shows at the Staircase (21-254) in Avarua cost $13, and the show without food is $2.65. Several hotels host similar shows for $16 to $21, still much less than the $50 or $75 Hawaiian luaus cost. For quick, cheap grub, Avatiu Harbour's food stands, such as Palace Takeaways (21-438), can't be beat, with burgers for $1.85 and full plates of chips, salad, and meat for $5.30. After the weekly bar binge on Friday nights (in which locals and visitors go all-out until 2 a.m.), revelers head to the food stands for a salty munch. There are two supermarkets in Avarua, where locally produced fruit and bread are the best buys. For snacks, convenience stores dot the ring road every mile or so. Good buys on food, crafts, and pearls are found each Saturday at the market in Avarua. Passage to paradise Two airlines serve Rarotonga from North America, bo th of which offer stopovers for intriguing, multidestination vacations. For years, Air New Zealand was the only carrier of note to the Cook Islands, but now there's competition thanks to Aloha Airlines (800/367-5250, alohaairlines.com), which kicked off service there in December 2002. From the West Coast, Aloha flies twice a week via Honolulu for round-trip fares of $993 from Burbank, Orange County, and Oakland; $1,133 from Las Vegas or Phoenix; and CAD$1,600 (US$1,015) from Vancouver. All flights to Rarotonga allow free stops in Hawaii in both directions, for as long as a ticket is valid (usually 30 days). Round trips from Honolulu to Rarotonga start at $581. Air New Zealand (800/262-1234, airnewzealand.com) flies direct from Los Angeles to Rarotonga (sometimes via Tahiti) for around $1,100 round trip. Get more out of your vacation with a multi-stop ticket (valid for travel within a three-month window) to Auckland in New Zealand, with free stopovers allowed at several spots in the South Pacific, including Rarotonga, Fiji, and Tahiti. These tickets start at about $1,470. Excursions to the outer islands A Cook Islands visitor who only sees Rarotonga is truly missing out. Fifteen islands comprise the Cooks, and Aitutaki, with miles of luminous blue-green lagoon and a picture-perfect smattering of tiny islands, is arguably even more breathtaking than Rarotonga. Unsurprisingly the most popular outer island for tourists, Aitutaki is a 40-minute flight from Rarotonga, with round trips on Air Rarotonga (22-888, airraro.com) starting at NZ$254 (US$135). There are even reasonably priced lodgings like Paradise Cove (31-218), with dorm-style beds in thatched huts for NZ$25 (US$13). Atiu, known for its caves and rocky coastline, is the next most popular outer island. Other islands, where there are no hotels or restaurants to speak of, allow the visitor to withdraw from the modern world completely. Air Rarotonga offers a variety of island air pas ses, starting at NZ$355 (US$189) for a Rarotonga-Aitutaki-Atiu trip.

What you'll find in this story: family travel, family camps, summer family adventures, favorite family trips, family outdoors activities, travel with children Family summer camps are the best way to experience the great outdoors without having to worry that your kids will fall off a cliff or get fatally bored. There's fly-fishing, horseback riding, campfire singing, and a million other crowd-pleasing activities. And camps are a super value, with some costing less than $1,000 per family of four for an entire week, and none costing more than $1,000 per adult per week. Why waste a ton of money when what's important is that you're all together--at a place where you can also safely spend time apart! How to read these listings Minimum stay is usually a week (six days and five or six nights). We've included the opening and closing dates for each camp's summer season. Many offer family programs during the rest of the year. Unless noted, fees are for a weeklong stay and cover activities, meals, and the least expensive non-tent-camping accommodations. (You'll probably need to bring sleeping bags and towels, and you'll want to ask if there's a camp store.) Prices may vary depending on the number and age of children. These rates are based on a family of four with two adults and two kids ages 7 and 13. Financial aid, sometimes referred to as a "campership," is often available. The American Camping Association has more than 300 health and safety standards, which go beyond the minimum federal and state regulations. ACA-accredited camps are also usually handicapped-accessible. California Berkeley Tuolumne Family Camp, Stanislaus National Forest On the south fork of the Tuolumne River in Stanislaus National Forest. Watercolor and pottery workshops for adults; stilt-walking and magic classes for kids. Themed staff performance on Saturday nights. Lodging 76 wood-frame or canvas-covered cabins, all with cots and shared bathhouse; campsites. Food Family-style meals with table service in dining hall. Dates June 25-Aug. 28, no minimum stay, fills quickly. Price $1,614 ($1,542 Berkeley residents). 510/981-5140, berkeleycamps.com. Camp Concord, South Lake Tahoe Surrounded by the Eldorado National Forest. Eighteen families at a time, age 4 and up. Hike seven minutes to Falling Leaf Lake for canoeing and swimming. Majority of staff are lifeguard-trained. Weekly shuttles to Nevada casinos. Babysitting available. ACA accredited. Lodging Private cabins that sleep six to eight in bunks and queen-size beds. Shared bathhouse. Food Three meals a day, including beach barbecues and bag lunches. Weekly cookouts and champagne breakfast. Dates June 19-Aug. 6, three-night minimum. Price $1,260 ($1,140 Concord residents). 925/671-3273, cityofconcord.org. Camp Sacramento, Twin Bridges The South Fork American River runs beside the camp. Catch a fish and the chef will cook it. Camper/counselor softball, tie-dyeing, and a weekly staff performance (this year's theme is Pirates of the Caribbean). Lodging 61 private cabins that sleep two to six with double beds, electricity, and shared bathhouse. Food Three cafeteria-style meals daily. Bag lunches available for all-day hikes. Dates June 19-Aug. 13. Price $1,368 ($1,088 Sacramento residents). 916/277-6098, cityofsacramento.org/parksandrecreation/campsac. Cazadero Performing Arts Camp, Cazadero In Sonoma's Russian River Valley, five miles from the ocean. Emphasis on the arts: salsa dancing, African drumming, jazz ensemble, chamber music, circus arts, drama. For all abilities. Lodging Tent cabins with decks on raised platforms, with two to eight cots; most have electricity. Food Three buffets daily in the dining hall. Dates Aug. 8-21. Price $2,420 (plus $40 registration fee). 510/527-7500, cazadero.org. Emandal--A Farm on a River, Willits A working farm on 1,000 acres. Bordering Mendocino National Forest, redwoods, and wine country. Milk a cow, gather eggs, harvest vegetables, make bread. Three-and-a-half miles of riverfront. Lodging Wooden cabins with queen bed, bunks, cold running springwater, and electricity. Shared bathhouse. A few farmhouse rooms with private baths. Linens provided. Food Three family-style meals daily. Bread and pizza baked in brick oven. Organic produce from on-site garden. Dates July 24-Aug. 28. Price $2,600. 707/459-5439, emandal.com. Feather River Camp, Quincy Twenty acres in the Plumas National Forest. Family dances, papermaking, gourd painting, nighttime flashlight tag. Supervised kids' activities. Theme weeks focus on storytelling, guitar, folk dancing, earth/ecology, and adult art program. Lodging Tent cabins and wood cabins (some of both with electricity). Food Three family-style meals daily in the dining hall. Ice cream cones at the camp store for $1. Dates June 26-Aug. 7, no minimum stay. Price $1,134 ($1,266 nonresidents of Oakland). 510/336-2267, featherrivercamp.com. Forest Home Ministries, Forest Falls Nondenominational Christian camp in the San Bernardino Mountains. Waterslide, zipline, miniature golf, climbing wall, and music; Saturday baptisms in the lake. Free evening child care for kids under 11. ACA accredited. Lodging Motel-style rooms with bunk beds and shared baths; motel-style rooms with private baths and linens; cabins with built-in queen-size beds and bunks, private baths, and linens. Food Three buffets daily; Tuesday and Friday adults-only dinner with table service; past menus have featured steak and king crab. Dates June 19-Aug. 27. Price $1,290 (new families bring youngest child free). 909/389-2300, foresthome.org. Lair of the Golden Bear, Pinecrest Three camps in the Sierras, under cedars, redwoods, and pines. Arts and crafts: pottery, lanyards, T-shirt painting, tie-dyeing. Three pools. Ping-Pong and Trivial Pursuit contests, speakers for adults. Lodging Wooden-floor canvas cabins, each sleeping two to six, with electricity. Rooms in the motel-style building sleep two with shared bath. Food Three family-style meals daily. Coffee throughout the day in the adults' Vista Lodge. Dates June 3-Oct. 2, fills quickly. Price $2,045 (plus $50 University of California alumni fee). 510/642-0221, alumni.berkeley.edu/lair. Lark Camp, Mendocino At Mendocino Woodlands State Park (the sister camp to the Camp David). Lots of music: Celtic fluting, Middle Eastern drumming, Zimbabwean marimba, jazz singing, accordion. Dancing, from square to belly. Lodging Redwood cabins, some with fireplaces; tent and RV camping. Food Three buffet or family-style meals daily, 24-hour coffeehouse. Dates July 29-Aug. 6. Price $1,840, meals extra ($100 off if a parent leads a daily one-hour kids' workshop). 707/964-4826, larkcamp.com. Montecito Sequoia Family Vacation Camp, Giant Sequoia National Monument In Sequoia National Forest, 7,500 feet up. A cross between a country inn (wood-burning stoves) and a summer camp (powwow sing-along every morning). Workshops led by artists. ACA accredited. Lodging 36 hotel-style lodge rooms and 13 cabins with king-size beds and bunks. Linens provided. Food Buffets with fare like prime rib and crab, wine and beer at the bar, 24-hour Starbucks coffee and snacks. Dates June 20-Sept. 5. Price $3,407. 800/227-9900, mslodge.com. Mount Hermon Christian Conference Center, Mount Hermon Nondenominational Christian camp in the redwoods, just six miles from the coast. Since 1906. Room for 600. Special programs for high schoolers, college students with their parents, and single-parent families. Ride the railroad down the canyon to the Santa Cruz boardwalk. Child care. Lodging From economy to master deluxe lodge rooms and homes. Linens provided. Food Family-style dining hall. Customized meal plans available. Fancier adult dinner on Fridays. Fountain ice cream shop. Dates June 3-Sept. 5 and select weekends. Price $1,302. 888/642-2677, mounthermon.org. Skylake Yosemite Camp, Wishon In the ponderosas near Yosemite, but the real star is Bass Lake--great for kayaking, waterskiing. Twilight trail rides and nightly campfires. ACA accredited. Lodging 38 bunkhouse cabins that sleep eight with shared bathhouse. Food Three buffets daily in the dining hall. Cooks are from California Culinary Academy. Dates May 27-June 5, Aug. 14-Sept. 29. Price $1,574. 559/642-3720, skylakeyosemite.com. Wonder Valley Family Camp, Sanger In the foothills of the Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, with private lake. Skateboard park, go-cart track, Honda minibike dirt track, waterslides, and personal watercraft. Thursday is parents' night, with child care until 11:30 p.m., prime rib dinner, casino tables, and live entertainment. ACA accredited. Lodging 53 motel-style rooms that sleep four to seven. Linens provided. Food Three buffets daily in the dining room. Dates Aug. 7-20. Price $3,742. 800/821-2801, wondervalleyfamilycamp.com. Check it out! There's more to camp than making lanyards. Cool activities you may find (for adults and kids): -- Stilt-walking---Go-cart track- --asino shuttles- L--nguage immersion- Sk--teboard park- Rol--er-hockey rink- Zipl--ne races- Beer --astings- Massag--s ($60/hour) Colorado Cheley Colorado Camps, Estes Park On 1,600 acres of wilderness, 7,500 feet up. Learn western-style horseback riding, with half-day and full-day rides through Rocky Mountain National Park and Roosevelt National Forest. Stream fishing, technical climbing, and contests like the Dirty Derby--at week's end, the dirtiest camper wins a prize. ACA accredited. Lodging Covered wagons with four single beds and shared bathhouse, linens provided. Food Three family-style meals daily; families eat together in the dining hall. Dates Aug. 9-14, fills quickly. Price $2,300. 800/226-7386, cheley.com. Estes Park Center, Estes Park On 860 acres, surrounded by 14,000-foot Rocky Mountain peaks. Elk, mule deer, moose, coyotes, and the occasional black bear. Emphasis on the environment: Watch beavers build dams, or learn about the life span of a fish after a hike to the stream. ACA accredited. Lodging 206 cabins, with two to four bedrooms, private bath, fully equipped kitchen, and housekeeping. Seven lodges with 451 hotel-style rooms, all with two queen beds, some with extra bunk beds. Linens provided. Food Three buffets daily. Pay by the meal; American plan (three meals daily, $25 adults, $14 kids) or European (breakfast and dinner, $20 adults, $12 kids). Café open from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Dates Open year-round, no minimum stay. Price Lodge from $336, meals extra. 970/586-3341, ext. 1010, ymcarockies.org. Snow Mountain Ranch, Winter Park Secluded amid thick lodgepole pines on 5,200 acres. Hayrides, indoor swimming, campfire night, and reservoir for canoeing. Chaplain teaches fly-fishing on summer afternoons. On-site dialysis center. ACA accredited. Lodging Campsites with or without hookups; 220 hotel-style lodge rooms with queen beds and bath; 62 cabins with fully equipped kitchen, beds, and private bath. Linens provided. Food Breakfast, lunch, and dinner buffets. Three plans: à la carte, American (three meals daily, adults $25, kids $14), European (breakfast and dinner, adults $20, kids $12). The Buckboard Grill serves snacks from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Dates Open year-round, no minimum stay. Price Rooms from $294, meals extra. 970/887-2152, ext. 4110, ymcarockies.org. Maine Ferry Beach Camp and Conference Center, Saco Affiliated with the Unitarian Universalist Association, with activities focused on spirituality. Workshops on eco-smart living, creative writing, dancing, drumming, photography, and fiber arts (weaving, scrapbooking, knitting). Lessons in sea kayaking. Daily service at on-site chapel. Teen programs, like an ongoing home-building service project in a nearby community. Lodging Dorm-style rooms (two to four beds) with bathrooms in corridor. Tent and RV sites. Food Breakfast and lunch buffets, family-style dinners, meal plans optional for tent/RV campers. Cuisine themes include Thai, Mexican, Indian. Dates June 24-Sept. 5, no minimum stay. Price Rooms from $1,900. 207/282-4489, ferrybeach.org. Medomak Camp for Families, Washington On the three-mile-long Medomak Lake. Yoga, photography, jewelry- and mask-making. Lessons in rowing, sailing, kayaking, canoeing. Massages ($60/hour). Lodging Single-room cabins (sleep six to eight) with private hot showers. Food Family-style with fresh produce from camp garden. Weekly lobster bake with mussels and corn on the cob at an additional $10-$12. Coffee and fruit all day. Once a week, parents can sample local beers and cheese while counselors watch kids. Dates June 26-Aug. 20. Price $2,100. 866/633-6625, medomakcamp.com. Wyonegonic, Denmark Two miles of piney shoreline with water sports galore: canoeing and sailing; waterskiing and sailboarding for kids over 10. ACA accredited. Lodging Wooden cabins with cots that sleep 6 to 12, no electricity. Linens supplied. Food Family-style breakfast and dinner, buffet lunch, all served at lodge. Weekly cookouts. Dates Aug. 19-28, three-day minimum stay, fills quickly. Price $1,400. 207/452-2051, wyonegonic.com. Massachusetts YMCA Camp Hi-Rock, Mount Washington In a thousand-acre Berkshires forest. Swimming, boating, waterskiing on the lake. Hike part of the Appalachian Trail. Evening activities include game-show nights, bingo, campfires, and square dancing. Lodging Cabins sleep eight, with private rooms and bunk beds. Four-season lodge (already booked). Food Optional meal plan ($17.50 daily for adults, $8.50 for kids 7-11) includes three buffets daily. Coffee and fruit throughout the day. Dates Aug. 29-Sept. 5, no minimum stay. Price $1,300. 413/528-1227, ext. 13, camphirock.com. Michigan YMCA Camp Pendalouan, Montague More than 150 acres of pine and oak forest near the White River. Rope climbing, skit nights, craft activities, and canoeing on Big Blue Lake. ACA accredited. Lodging Cabins with bunk beds, electricity, and shared bathhouse. Food Three family-style meals daily. Weekly cookouts at Lake Michigan, 10 miles away. Dates July 2-5. Price $625, kids under 5 free. 231/894-4538, pendalouan.org. YMCA Storer Camps, Jackson Upper midwestern woodland, wetland trails, green meadows, and a 300-acre lake. Supervised waterfront activities such as sailing, canoeing, kayaking. Pie-baking competitions, tile painting, trail rides, nature programs, climbing tower, square dancing, scavenger hunts. ACA accredited. Lodging Wooden cabins with electricity, each with six double bunk beds. Motel-style unit with common rooms and private bath. Food Buffet breakfast and family-style lunch and dinner. Dates June 26-July 2, July 3-9. Price $1,040. 800/536-8607, ymcastorercamps.org. Minnesota Concordia Language Villages, Bemidji Five villages on 880 acres around Turtle River Lake. The weeklong family camps offer language immersion and activities that reflect the traditions and celebrations of Finland and Germany. (French, Spanish, and Scandinavian weekend programs also available.) Regional folk dancing, games, songs, and crafts. ACA accredited. Lodging Choose from communal housing reflecting Finnish, German, French, or Spanish traditions. Food Cuisine depends on type of program; served family-style. Dates June 13-18. Price $1,300. 800/222-4750, concordialanguagevillages.org. Family Camp at Camp Lake Hubert, Lake Hubert Ninety-six years old. The camp has a 17-foot-high tree house and is dotted with rope swings and hammocks. Nightly teen campfires with card and board games, puzzles, and snacks. Families take pontoon boats to picnic lunch. ACA accredited. Lodging Families share two-level cabins with three bedrooms, fireplace, and private bath. Linens provided. Food All meals family-style. Coffee and fruit available all day. Dates Aug. 12-18, fills quickly. Price $2,800. 800/242-1909, lincoln-lakehubert.com. Wolf Ridge Environmental Learning Center, Finland An accredited school overlooking Lake Superior. Focus on learning and exploring habitats. Experienced naturalists lead walks into the wilderness and hold workshops and classes on ecology, rock climbing, astronomy, folk dancing, block printing, and voyageur activities (where kids learn about the fur trade from a costumed staffer). Lodging Dorm-style rooms with two to four bunk beds. Food Three cafeteria-style meals daily in dining hall. Dates Open year-round at select time periods; Aug. 1-6. Price $1,050. 218/353-7414, wolf-ridge.org. YMCA Camp du Nord, Ely With red pines and rocky shores along inland lakes, it's near one of North America's last timber wolf habitats. Also spot bald eagles, hawks, loons, and moose. Concentrate on spiritual development and growth. Activities include naturalist presentations, talent nights, sing-alongs, and overnight camping trips. ACA accredited. Lodging Cabins sleep 4 to 14, some have kitchens and private baths; tent sites. Food Buffet breakfast and family-style lunch and dinner in the dining hall. Four meal plans available (from $50). Dates June 18-Sept. 3. Price $1,175. 612/465-0490, dunord.org. Missouri Trout Lodge, Potosi On 5,000 wooded acres overlooking a 360-acre lake. Pony- and hayrides, family-oriented movie nights. Scale the 50-foot Alpine Tower and the Pines Peak climbing wall, and tackle the summit course with ropes, cables, pulleys, and zipline. Eighteen-hole golf course adjacent, with antiques shops and wineries nearby. ACA accredited. Lodging Hotel-style lodge rooms with queen-size beds, private bath, and lake view; loft suites on top floor. Deluxe two-bedroom, two-bathroom cabins--with heat and A/C--sleep up to 10. Linens provided. Food Three buffets daily. Dates Year-round, two-night minimum on the weekends. Price Lodge room $1,752 (not including $7 temporary YMCA membership fee). 314/241-9622, ymcaoftheozarks.org. New Hampshire Alton Bay Christian Conference Center, Alton Bay Celebrating 142 years on Lake Winnipesaukee. The tabernacle hosts Christian concerts Saturdays, with two Sunday services in the chapel. Private beach, Bible school, and inspirational speakers. Lodging 14-unit motel, sleeps up to four per room; 8-room lodging house; 30-unit RV park with tent sites and hookup; and 170 cottages, some over 100 years old. Food Full-service restaurant serves three à la carte meals daily. Dates July 1-Sept. 5, no minimum stay. Price $275, meals extra. 603/875-6161, abccc.org. Calumet Lutheran Camp and Conference Center, West Ossipee At the base of the White Mountains, with daily Bible study, a nature learning center, and a lakefront beach for swimming and evening singing and prayer. Game nights (sometimes on a six-by-six-foot Scrabble board) and weekly scavenger hunts. ACA accredited. Lodging Conference center sleeps 34 in motel-style rooms, with bathroom down the hall (linens provided); 65 RV sites, most with hookups. Food Pay by the meal. Buffet breakfast and dinner in conference center dining room. Lunch is grilled daily out on the beach. All-you-can-eat ice cream social every Friday night. Dates July 2-Sept. 5, no minimum stay. Price $912, meals extra. 603/539-3223, ext. 220, calumet.org. Camp Takodah, Richmond Generations of families have returned annually since 1921. Diving tower and slide on Cass Pond. Sailboards, kayaks, and inner tubes. Flag-raising ceremony daily. Activities run by staff and families. Ropes course with 30-foot "pamper" pole, dress-up time, riflery, Frisbee golf, and music nook. Mealtime songs. ACA accredited. Lodging Wooden cabins sleeping up to 10 on built-in bunks and cots, with electric lighting and shared bathhouse. Food Three family-style meals daily in the dining hall. Snacks provided throughout the day. Dates Aug. 28-Sept. 2, three-day minimum stay. Price $1,720. 603/352-0447 (Sept.-June), 603/239-4781 (summer), camptakodah.org. Purity Spring Resort Family Camp, East Madison On 1,000 acres in the White Mountains. Waterskiing and wakeboarding on mile-long Purity Lake. Sports, fitness programs, canoe trips, kids' talent shows, and scavenger hunts. Lodging Wooden cabins sleep up to eight on twin-size cots, with private toilet and cold-water sink. Shared shower house. Linens provided. Food Three buffets daily. Lobster and steak cookout once a week. Dates Aug. 14-20, two-night minimum stay. Price Cabin $1,362. 800/373-3754, purityspring.com. Star Island, Portsmouth A 40-acre island accessible by ferry from Portsmouth ($23.50). Affiliated with Unitarian Universalist Association and United Church of Christ, with candlelit evening chapel services, nature walks, and weekly camper/counselor softball. Lodging Four-story whitewashed hotel, two floors of guest housing; several detached cottages; motel-style units. Linens provided. Food Full-service, family-style breakfast, lunch, and dinner in hotel dining room. Snack bar when restaurant is closed. Dates Six weeklong programs run by different organizations June 18-Sept. 18; they fill quickly. Price $1,836 (not including $190-$300 registration fee). 603/430-6272, starisland.org. YMCA Sandy Island Family Camp, Sandy Island A 66-acre private island on Lake Winnipesaukee. Eight-hundred-foot waterfront area, lifeguards from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sailing, tennis, and yoga for adults and kids. Talent show Thursdays, karaoke Mondays, line dancing three nights a week. Scavenger hunts. Lodging Waterfront cabins (some with private bath) that sleep up to 10 on twin-size beds and bunks. Modern bathhouse. Linens provided. Food Breakfast and lunch buffets, family-style dinners. Dates July 2-Sept. 3. Price $2,075. 603/569-2725 (winter), 603/ 253-4217 (summer), bostonycamps.org. New Mexico Western Unitarian Universalist Life Festival, Ghost Ranch The ranch is in high desert, 6,500 feet above sea level. Presbyterian-owned, focusing on spirituality. Daily worship, yoga, workshops on building your own theology, shamanism, drumming and chanting, off-site trips to hot springs. Learn pottery in the Native American tradition. Lodging Dorm-style rooms that sleep up to eight (shared bath, linens provided); tent/RV sites with hookups. Food Three cafeteria-style meals daily. Dates June 6-12. Price Room $1,090 (not including $475 registration fee; some activities cost extra; discount for early registration). 303/832-1106, wuulf.org. New York Frost Valley YMCA Camp, Claryville On 6,000 acres in Catskill Mountain Park. Miles of trout-fishing streams, and a 16-acre lake. Guided day and night hikes. Rodeo, carnival, triathlon. Participate in the world service auction to raise money for the YMCA. ACA accredited. Lodging B&B-style castle (formerly a private estate); hotel-style rooms with private bath; bunk rooms that sleep four to eight with shared bath; dorm-style rooms with shared bath; cabins that sleep 10 on bunks, with shared bathroom; lodge rooms with private bath. Food Three buffets daily. Occasional theme dinners such as luau and Texas barbecue. Dates Aug. 20-26. Price Cabin $809, horseback riding extra. 845/985-2291, frostvalley.org. Kingswood Family Campsite, Hancock Methodist facility on 700 acres. Sunday worship service. Ice cream making, tractor-pulled hayrides, hiking, volleyball, jewelry making, cooking on a campfire. ACA accredited. Lodging Canvas platform tents sleep six on cots, private outhouse, no electricity. Pots, pans, gas stove. Food No food service. Tuesday potluck supper. A grocery store is seven miles away. Dates June 24-Sept. 5. Price Fully equipped site $310, two-night minimum on weekends. 203/380-8622 (winter, after January 1), 607/637-5401 (summer), umcamps.org. YMCA Camp Gorham, Eagle Bay Rolling hills, hardwood trees, and mountain peaks surround a 500-acre private lake. Waterskiing, square dancing, rock climbing, bocce tournaments, waterfront Olympics, sailing regatta, and kids' home run derby. Bike trails (BYO bike). ACA accredited. Lodging Adirondack-style cottages that sleep up to 22, with stone fireplace and private bathroom; bunkhouses (one with a kitchenette) with shared bathhouse; lean-to with bunk beds, electricity, and shared bathhouse. Food Three family-style meals daily. Dates Aug. 21-28. Price Cottage $1,795, lean-to $1,365 (discounts for members). 888/518-5671, campgorham.org. North Carolina YMCA Camp Seafarer, Arapahoe The camp focuses on water-based activities: motorboating, sailing, waterskiing, fishing, racing to the water on side-by-side ziplines. Golf and tennis. ACA accredited. Lodging Screened-in cabins sleep up to 16 on bunks, with electricity and private bathroom. Food Three family-style meals daily. Dates Aug. 14-19, fills quickly. Price $1,880. 252/249-1212, seagull-seafarer.org. Ohio Camp Luther, Conneaut Lutheran camp on the Lake Erie bluffs. Daily team sports: baseball, softball, cricket, flag football. Swimming pool and sauna. Low-ropes team-building course. Two musicals performed by staff in outdoor amphitheater. Bird-watching and horseshoes. ACA accredited. Lodging Wooden and remodeled-with-drywall cabins that sleep 12, with double bed and bunks, private bathroom, and electricity; tent/RV sites with hookups. Food Three family-style meals daily; rotating assigned seating. Dates June 19-Aug. 13. Price $1,190 (new-family discount available). 513/844-1190 (winter), 440/224-2196, lomocamps.org. Pennsylvania Deer Valley YMCA Camp, Fort Hills On 725 acres, near the top of Mount Davis. Kid- and adult-only programs in the mornings, family time in the afternoons. Nature programs, rec center, skit and carnival nights, sailing, and staff-performed talent show. ACA accredited. Lodging Wooden cabins that sleep eight with bunks and double bed, as well as private half-bath and electricity. Food Three family-style meals daily with table service, in new dining hall. Snack bar open throughout the day for ice cream, pizza, etc. Dates June 11-Aug. 27 (must stay Sat.-Sat.), fills quickly. Price Basic cabin or lodge $1,484. 800/962-2386, deervalleyymca.org. New Jersey Camps, Milford In the Poconos with two lakes, a lagoon, two swimming pools, and athletic fields. "Iceberg" climbing tower, zipline, Jet Skis, sailboards. Skateboard park, roller-hockey rinks. Israeli cooking and dance classes and Jewish crafts (making mezuzahs, challah covers, etc.). ACA accredited. Lodging Wood-panel cabins with private bathroom and shower, wooden bunks with five-inch mattresses, bed linens provided. Cottages available. Food Three buffet-style meals per day, prepared in accordance with kosher laws. Friday Shabbat dinner and service. Dates June 17-19; Aug. 26-28; Sept. 2-5 (single-parent-family weekends also available). Price Weekends $600. 973/575-3333, njycamps.org. South Carolina Asbury Hills Camp and Retreat Center, Cleveland Owned and operated by the South Carolina Conference of the United Methodist Church, on 1,800 acres in the Appalachian foothills. Trout stream and lake. Hiking, belay tree climbing, canoeing, crafts. Nontraditional outdoor worship on Sundays. ACA accredited. Lodging Eight rooms in bunkhouse lodge. Each room sleeps six, with shared bathrooms. Food Three family-style meals daily. Dates June 26-July 1. Price $875. 864/836-3711, asburyhills.org. Texas Pine Cove, The bluffs and the Woods, Tyler; Pine Cove, Crier Creek, Columbus Nondenominational Christian camp at three separate locations: the Bluffs, a 175-foot bank overlooking Lake Palestine; the Woods, on 800 pine-studded acres with an 18-mile-long lake; and Crier Creek, a ranch near Columbus. Bible studies, trapeze, beach volleyball, ziplines, street hockey, Christian speakers. ACA accredited. Lodging Deluxe cabins sleeping up to eight, with air-conditioning and private bathrooms; some have kitchenettes. Food Three family-style meals daily at lodge. Breakfast trail rides. Dates May 29-Aug. 13. Price $1,766. 877/474-6326, pinecove.com. Vermont Farm & Wilderness Camp, Plymouth Organic farm in the Quaker tradition; the camp celebrates community. Sign up for daily chores in the barn. Tend to cows, pigs, goats, sheep. Harvest produce from the garden, press cider from the apple orchard, and make ice cream with fresh milk. Climbing facilities. ACA accredited. Lodging Three-sided rustic cabins that sleep up to 14 on bunks with mattresses. Shared bathhouse. Food Three family-style meals daily. Mostly organic, from on-site garden. Dates Aug. 23-28. Price $600. 802/422-3761, fandw.org. Washington Camp Burton, Vashon Island Seventeen miles long and four miles wide, Vashon Island is a 15-minute ferry ride from West Seattle, Tacoma, or Kitsap Peninsula. Affiliated with American Baptist Churches. Bible study by the seashore, canoeing, kayaking, Ping-Pong, basketball, golf. ACA accredited. Lodging Carpeted cabins with bunk beds, sleeping up to 10, with private bathrooms. Food Three family-style meals daily. Dates July 31-Aug. 6. Price $645. 206/463-2512, campburton.com. West Virginia Camp Alleghany, Lewisburg On a river and surrounded by birch, maple, and elm trees. Arrive by camp ferry or rowboat. Spot black bears, deer, and groundhogs. Low-ropes course, hiking, archery, 22-caliber riflery, swimming lanes. Golf nearby. ACA accredited. Lodging Platform tent with up to five twin cots. Shared bathhouse. Food Three buffet meals daily. Pig roast by the river. Dates Aug. 6-15, three- to four-night minimum stay. Price $1,050. 540/898-4782, campalleghany.com. Wisconsin Camp Brosiu, Elkhart Lake Operated by Indiana University. On Elkhart Lake, the camp offers Sunfish sailing, kayaking, and waterskiing. Day trips for adults to craft shops and outlet malls. Golf nearby. Lodging Three- and four-bedroom cottages that sleep eight, with private bath and screened porch; hotel-style rooms, with two double beds, sink, and shared bath; and cabins that sleep four on bunks, with electricity and shared bathhouse. Linens provided in cottages and hotel-style rooms. Food Three buffets daily. Brats-and-beer picnic dinner (weather permitting). Dates June 26-Aug. 13. Price Cabins $1,560 (not including $40 alumni-association membership fee). 317/274-2248, campbrosius.com. Camp Nebagamon, Lake Nebagamon Game-show night, talent show, campfire night. Water sports on 1,000-acre lake. Volleyball, softball, field hockey, archery, riflery. ACA accredited. Lodging Cabins that sleep up to 16 on cots and bunks, with electricity and shared bathhouse; or the four- and eight-bedroom houses with shared bath (same price). Food Breakfast and lunch buffets and family-style dinner. Separate happy hours for kids and adults. Dates Aug. 15-21. Price $1,400 (discounts for more than two children). 763/476-7676, campnebagamon.com. Camp North Star, Hayward In Wisconsin lake country, with two-and-a-half miles of shoreline. Water on three sides. Tubing down the Namekagon River. Bowling tournament, family talent night, private tennis lessons, mixed-doubles tennis tournament, storytelling (in a tepee), fishing tournament, band at happy hour. ACA accredited. Lodging Log cabins that sleep 12 on bunk beds, with electricity and shared bathhouse. Food Three family-style meals daily. Coffee and snacks throughout the day. Dates Aug. 13-20, fills quickly. Price $1,525 (five-day minimum). 520/577-7925 (winter), 715/462-3254, northstarcamp.com. YMCA Camp Nawakwa, Lac du Flambeau Between two lakes. Fishing, square dancing, triathlon, Native American workshops, team sports. Lodging Modern 800-square-foot two-bedroom homes, with bathroom, kitchen, screened porch; rustic cabins that sleep four to six on bunks and twin futon, with electricity, running water, and kitchen (shared bathhouse). Food No food service except boat-and-breakfast outing, not included in price. A store is five miles away. Dates June 11-Aug. 27. Price $455. 715/588-7422, nawakwa.com.

The Latvian prison experience "You are exiting hell," reads a former inmate's inscription at Karosta, a Latvian prison in use until 1997. But these days, folks are eager to enter. Option #1 is a tame, 30-minute daytime walk-through ($3.75). Option #2 is a two-hour affair where you get a mug shot, a mock interrogation, a reenactment of an escapee being shot by guards, and a field trip to a real mass grave nearby ($5.65). Then there's Option #3: a full night in a damp cell ($9.50). Guests/prisoners are dressed in prison stripes, put through "intense physical training," and offered the choice to spend time in solitary. The prison's activities manager says that last summer, every overnight stay was booked. "I had never slept on a wooden plank before," reported one guest, who coordinated a tour for colleagues from his Estonian gas company. "We thought this would be a good way to end our trip. Everyone is going to remember it for the longest time." 011-371/636-9470, karostascietums.lv. The Donald Trump Apprentice Cruise Just because you enjoy watching The Apprentice doesn't mean you'd want to hang with the contestants--much less be trapped on a cruise with them. And yet, this September, several former cast members--including Stacie J. (the "unstable" one), Raj (the bow-tied cad), and Jennifer C. (the real estate agent accused of anti-Semitism)--will be aboard an eight-day Expedia-chartered Caribbean cruise. In between speed-dating events, there will be an ongoing business contest in which former contestants will "fire" losers; alas, they don't walk the plank. (The winner gets $15,000 and the right to play CEO of Expedia for a day.) Proving that he's not as dumb as his hair looks, The Donald will show up only for the send-off in New York City. 800/504-3398, expedia.com/apprentice, from $1,249. Fun for the nuclear family In 1995, a businessman named Hennie van der Most bought an abandoned nuclear power station near the German city of Kalkar. Seeing its true potential, he decided to turn the plant--which had never gone into operation due, in part, to protests--into a family-friendly fun zone. Wunderland Kalkar is a multibuilding complex housing, among other things, Kernie's Family Park; in 2004, more than 500,000 people came to ride bumper cars and a Ferris wheel, all in the shadow of a still-standing reactor. "In short, there's almost every attraction a child can think of," said one attendee, who brought her 6-year-old son to celebrate his birthday. "Just imagine free-climbing up the outside of the never-to-be-used cooling tower!" kernies-familienpark.de, $22. National Lampoon's Spring Break Tours A new company called National Lampoon Tours launched two trips this past March, to Las Vegas and Cabo San Lucas. The organizers thoughtfully suggested a packing list: "Sunscreen, condoms, sunglasses (daytime pair, nighttime pair), condoms, camera, condoms..." Not that they'll definitely be put to use. According to President Jason Hollander, the Vegas trip was heavy on men: "But that just means there's a little more competition!" The 21-and-over crowd stayed fueled thanks to a 24-hour open bar--in other words, 96 hours of free drinks. (Hollander will allow that the participants may have been sleeping for part of the time.) In Cabo, 18-and-over guests got $225 in drink vouchers instead. Let's do the math: $225 divided by five days is $45. Coronas were $5 apiece (and shots were less). That means folks got at least nine beers a day. "It'll get you on your way nicely," Hollander says. 877/465-8687, nationallampoontours.com, Vegas packages from $279, Mexico packages from $379. Building your own igloo Staying in an igloo is one thing, but paying for the privilege to build it is another. Intrepid participants on the four-night Churchill Wild "Fire and Ice" tour, in Manitoba, pass several hours hacking at ice with two-foot-long saws. Then the excitement really begins. "Walls will probably fall down a couple of times before the igloo is finished," says Churchill Wild Director Mike Reimer. "But that's just part of the fun." Once they're successful, ersatz Inuits get caribou skins and a down sleeping bag to keep themselves warm. As if that weren't enough, the town of Churchill also happens to be the polar bear capital of the world--and chances are good you'll see a bear's kill site, complete with gnarled seal remains. Tours take place in the early spring and cost $2,398. "There haven't been a lot of bookings," Reimer says. "But the people who come absolutely love it." 888/326-7325, churchillwild.com. A Zero-Gravity flight to nowhere A 90-minute, $3,750 flight from Fort Lauderdale to Fort Lauderdale? That more or less guarantees the need for a barf bag? The G Force One is America's first FAA-approved thrill ride, in which aspiring astronauts can experience weightlessness. A Boeing 727 cargo plane follows a parabolic flight pattern--it resembles rolling hills--and offers about seven minutes of zero gravity over the course of 15 ups and downs. At the top of each arc, the plane nose-dives at a 40-degree angle, leaving passengers gravity-free for 35 seconds; then the plane climbs and plummets again and again. The weightless portion takes place in a padded compartment, hammering home the idea that you'd have to be crazy to get onboard. Or not: Alice Carey, of Crawfordsville, Ind., can't get enough of gravity-free flights. "I felt my face getting puffy as a result of blood pooling in my body," she reported of a recent flight. And that was a good thing. 888/664-7284, nogravity.com. The world's most hypersexed hotel Some of the 19 rooms at Hotel Pelirocco, in Brighton, England, are kind of cool, having been designed by avant-garde creative types. But others come off as desperate to bang guests over the head with their bawdiness, thanks to round beds, strip-club signs, worn copies of The Joy of Sex, and handcuffs. (Perhaps Pelirocco is Italian for "trying too hard.") Betty's Boudoir was inspired by '50s pinup Betty Page; the Nookii Room has what's called the KinkybedTM; and "toys" are available from room service--for purchase, not for rent. "It's really for couples who want to have a dirty, saucy weekend," co-owner Jane Slater says. "Rather than hide away and pretend you're not doing it, why not celebrate?" Sounds nice and all, but we'd still like to pretend that we're the only ones who feel that way--or we'd never touch the bedspread. 011-44/1273-327-055, hotelpelirocco.co.uk, from $119. The Cabo Wabo Meltdown Each October, former Van Halen front man Sammy Hagar invites everyone and his brah to Cabo San Lucas for the Cabo Wabo Meltdown, a multiday bands-and-booze fiesta leading up to Hagar's birthday, on the 13th. It takes place at his Cabo Wabo Cantina--named after Van Halen's 1988 song "Cabo Wabo," an ode to stumbling around smashed--and the beverage of choice is Hagar's Cabo Wabo tequila. (Because this ain't just a party, it's product placement.) Fans rage until all hours listening to acts like the Wabos (Hagar's side project) and Kenny Chesney. The mix of tequila and testosterone can get a little messy. Last year, Hagar's wife, Kari, marked her honey's latest birthday by smearing cake all over his face; inspired, the crowd lobbed a three-by-six-foot cake on the ceiling and the floor. Afterward, Hagar kept fans apprised of his hangover status: "You may be saying to yourself, The Meltdown was almost a month ago!?' " he wrote on his website. " 'How could they still be recovering?' " This year's event will be 15 days long--yes, you read that correctly--and it starts on Oct. 1. cabowabo.com. Nudist skiing It's a winter activity sure to send chills up your spine. The Austrian village of Obertraun has set aside a secluded two-mile loop for nudist cross-country skiers. Visitors from Germany, Austria, and the Czech Republic, says a local guesthouse owner, like to come in March and April, when temperatures are warm enough that "it almost feels like one is on the beaches of the Canaries." Last year, another village, Hochfügen, hosted Austria's first nude downhill-skiing competition. Or at least that was the intent: The modest officials required some coverage, and a compromise--in the form of G-strings--was reached. More than 2,000 spectators showed up to watch (ogle?) 84 contestants execute two jumps and 10 pirouettes in 28-degree weather. A couple of resorts in the region cater to the clothing-disinclined: Gästehaus Lührmann in Ramsau am Dachstein (luehrmann.at, from $66) requires nudity at its public pool, sauna, and terraces. And in Obertraun, Hans Schilcher runs the nude-friendly Schilcherhaus. He insists that the sun poses an equal--if not greater--risk than either falling or frostbite. No doubt. But what we're really worried about is the T-bar. tiscover.at/obertraun, tickets from $36.

Cross the Canadian border and pay for a 99> item with US$10, and the cashier will hand back almost CAD$15 in change-does it get any better? Okay, so you'll be spending those funny-colored Canuck bucks (of which you presently get CAD$1.55 for every US$1), but once you've made the odd currency calculation, you find-voila!-that your budget has stretched an amazingly long way. Here are some best bets. 1. Links for less For stunningly inexpensive golf packages, look to Prince Edward Island. Better known for its beaches and Anne of Green Gables, the tiny island province has been recognized as "Canada's Best Golf Destination" by r eaders of SCOREGolf magazine. Starting at US$160 (May/October) or US$210 (June-September) per person, you get three nights' accommodations at any of eight Rodd Hotels & Resorts properties (800/565-7633, rodd-hotels.ca), breakfasts, and three days of golf at your choice of 12 championship courses (this includes P.E.I.'s three top golf courses: Brudenell River, Dundarave, and the Links at Crowbush Cove). It's all a day's drive (680 miles) from Boston via the eight-mile Confederation Bridge from New Brunswick. Contact Tourism PEI (888/734-7529, gov.pe.ca/visitors guide/packages) for details. 2. Cheap college digs Canada's universities offer rooms at bargain rates during school holiday periods. Check the Canadian University and College Conference Officers Association (cuccoa.org) for a list of 24 schools. Brock University (905/688-5550, ext. 3369, brocku.ca/communityservices/conference/rates.htm), for example, in Ontario's Niagara wine-growing region, offers singl e rooms for US$25 (each shares adjoining washroom, linens included), and there's an all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet for US$5, plus free parking. A well-marked 25-mile drive/cycle route (wineroute.com) winds past 45 wineries, many with free tastings. Even better, you're 20 minutes from Niagara Falls (Niagara Parks, 877/NIA-PARK, niagaraparks.com; Niagara Tourism, 800/56-FALLS, niagaratourism.com). 3. Gallic gatherings No one throws a party like Quebecois. The Just For Laughs Comedy Festival (July 10-20, 2003, 888/244-3155, hahaha.com) and the Montreal International Jazz Festival (June 26-July 6, 2003, 888/515-0515, montrealjazzfest.com), two of Montreal's biggest confabs, offer hundreds of events and most of the entertainment is free (streets close down and stages are set up). Contact the Downtown Bed & Breakfast Network (800/267-5180, bbmontreal.qc.ca; 46 rooms averaging US$38-$75), Bed and Breakfast ^ Montr(r)eal (800/738-4338, bb montreal.com; 35 rooms US$48-$54), or look for last-minute bargains online at tourism-montreal.org. Contact Tourism Quebec at 877/266-5687 or bonjourquebec.com. 4. Half-price hostels Consider Canada's youth hostels for lodging at less than US$20 per night. Despite the name, there are no age limits. From a lighthouse in Campbellton, New Brunswick, and a former jail in the nation's capital, there's a huge choice. Expect to share a room (some offer family rooms), and most have guest kitchens. One of the best is Whalers on the Point Guesthouse in Tofino (81 West St., 250/725-3443, tofinohostel.com) on Vancouver Island. Enjoy the region's rain forest, sea kayaking, and the best surfing in Canada. And stay for US$14 per night. Rooms have four to six beds, and the fireplace lounge has a huge picture-window view of Clayoquot Sound. Hostelling International-Canada has 69 locations (800/663-5777, hostellingintl.ca). 5. Trimming Toronto Accommodations on the Lake Ontario waterfront can set you back hundreds of dollars, but not if you sashay through the hotel high-rises and catch the Ward's Island ferry (US$3.25 round trip) for a ten-minute ride to Toronto's charming, 262-home island community. A two-minute walk brings you to Ronni and Julie Bates's Fourth Street Bed and Breakfast, where US$65-$70 gets a double room with breakfast, free bikes, and easy access to downtown, all in a casual cottage community that even locals claim has the best view of the city. Guests at the three-year-old home can dine at the Island Yacht Club or nearby bistro the Rectory Cafe. Water taxis do late-night runs. Open year-round (10 Fourth St., Ward's Island, 416/203-7551, fourthstbb@hotmail.com). For Toronto Islands info (including ferry schedule), log on to torontoisland.org. Toronto Convention & Visitors Association: 416/203-2600, torontotourism.com. 6. Affordable Atlantic Experience New England charm at half price in New Scotland (today's Nova Scotia). The Province's g em is Lunenburg (902/634-8100, town.lunenburg.ns.ca), with its 400-building "Old Town"-both a National Historic District and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Many wonderful gingerbread-trimmed Victorian homes offer bed-and-breakfast, with rates averaging US$45 to US$60 for a couple, per night. Wander down to the waterfront and you might find Bluenose II in port (the original schooner is portrayed on the Canadian dime), or see other Tall Ships (the replicas of HMS Bounty and HMS Rose were also crafted here). This year you can catch some of Lunenburg's 250th-birthday celebrations. 7. Reasonable rails In May 2002, VIA Rail Canada introduced brand-spanking-new "Renaissance" sleeper cars on the Toronto/Montreal service. With this deal, US$185 buys round-trip transportation, two meals, a night's accommodations, and none of the usual costs of going to and from airports. You travel one way in the sleeper and return in the VIA 1 (first-class service). Book seven days in advance. The spiffy new cabins have their own private washrooms and coffeemakers (deluxe cabins have showers). For other VIA discounts (unlimited-travel Canrailpasses, student discounts, seniors "take a companion for free," and "kids travel free" programs), call 800/561-3949, or visit viarail.ca. 8. Discount dudes A dude ranch experience doesn't have to cost big bucks. Drive north from Vancouver (six hours) and you'll reach the Cariboo, home to some of the biggest ranches in North America. Big Bar Ranch offers accommodations, RV hookups, and a budget-stretching alternative for adventurous families: four-person tepees. Each has a platform, central fire pit, and sleeping bags. For the adult daily rate of US$48, or US$32 for kids 4 to 12, you also get three hearty buffet meals and the use of Harrison Lodge with fireplace, game room, and outdoor hot tub. Two-hour guided rides, endorsed by Canadian Cowboy magazine, are US$28. For details contact Big Bar (250/459-2333, bigbarranch.com); for the province's tourism office call 800/HELLO-BC, or log on to hellobc.com. 9. Budget ballet Thanks to populist ticket prices and a great exchange rate, live entertainment is a good buy in Canada. Single tickets for the highly regarded Royal Winnipeg Ballet (800/667-4792, rwb.org) are usually priced at a surprising US$7-$35. An unbeatable opportunity The RWB season ends in May, but in the summer see the ballet students and key performers for free, in the Lyric Theatre in Winnipeg's Assiniboine Park (20 minutes from downtown), on July 23, 24, and 25. Other free productions in the park include jazz concerts and the Winnipeg Symphony. For schedules phone 204/888-5466, ext. 8, or 204/885-9742 after June 1. Contact Destination Winnipeg at 800/665-0204 or tourismwinnipeg.com. For Manitoba's "2003 Travel Values Guide" (available in May) call 800/665-0040 or visit travelmanitoba.com. 10. Discounted dinos Take a two-and-a-half-hour hike or a two-hour guided bus tour through one of the world's richest dinosaur territories for just US$4.20 per adult, US$2.75 for kids ages 7 to 17. That's the deal at southeastern Alberta's Dinosaur Provincial Park-yet another World Heritage Site. In its 17-mile section along the Red Deer River more than 300 dinosaur skeletons have been uncovered since the 1880s. Canada has 39 national parks (888/773-8888, parkscanada.pch.gc.ca) and hundreds of provincial parks, which not only provide wonderful, scenic, inexpensive camping facilities, but often great interpretive programs for reasonable rates. (They are so good at Dinosaur Provincial Park that guests are limited to one guided-program ticket per day.) Book early, especially during peak holiday periods. At Dinosaur Provincial Park, a non-power campsite is US$9.70, power US$11.60, plus a US$3.90 reservation fee. There are two reservation lines, both open May 1: 403/378-3700 (camping) and 403/378-4344 (bus tours and hikes). Or visit the park's Web site at cd.gov.ab.ca/parks/dinosaur. 11. Shoestring skis Want the best skiing in North America at the best price? Check out the shoulder-season deals at Whistler, British Columbia. Look for "Hot Deals" or ask about the "Value Season Package," available March 31 to April 27. For US$256 per person, you get round-trip airport transfers, three nights' accommodations, and a two-day lift pass. Skiing magazine just named Whistler North America's top ski area for the fifth consecutive year. Whistler (800/944-7853, mywhistler.com) is 75 miles north of Vancouver; averages 30 feet of snow annually; and has the most terrain (over 7,000 acres) and the greatest vertical drop (one mile) of ski mountains in North America. 12. Cut-rate cruise Thousands of travelers pay cruise-ship rates to enjoy the spectacularly lush, green, coastal mountain scenery of west coast British Columbia. With BC Ferries (250/386-3431, bcferries.bc.ca), cruise the popular Inside Passage for an incredible US$64 adults, US$32 for kids ages 5 to 11 (rates are even lower from mid-May to mid-June and in the second half of September). The company's 36 ships carry some 21 million passengers annually. This 15-hour day cruise takes 850 passengers and 157 vehicles from Port Hardy on the northern tip of Vancouver Island to Prince Rupert, gateway to southeast Alaska. Spot bald eagles or maybe even migrating gray whales. From Prince Rupert you can join the Alaska Marine Highway (800/526-6731, akferry.com) and continue to Skagway, Alaska (US$140 one way for the one-and-a-half- to two-day journey). 13. Upstart airlines The Canadian budget carrier WestJet (800/538-5696, westjet.com) boasts a singing pilot and a flight attendant who has been known to play the flute during trips. It services 22 cities between Victoria, British Columbia, and Halifax, Nova Scotia, and often offers special fares like "Wacky Wednesdays," which include one-way deals from Calgary to Toronto for US$64 and Victoria to Calgary for US$32. Compare routes and rates with Canada's other budget flyers: Jetsgo (866/440-0441, jetsgo.net), ZIP (866/432-1947, 4321zip.com), CanJet Airlines (800/809-7777, canjet.com), and Tango by Air Canada (800/315-1390, flytango.com). Or even fly free. It's a stretch, but it could happen when WestJet is running one of its quirky, everchanging promos, such as granting gratis ducats to people whose last name is "Love" or "Red" on Valentine's Day, "Orange" or "Black" on Halloween, or the name of any former prime minister on its unofficial Prime Minister's Day. Watch for special offers online. 14. Hop-aboard buses More time than money to cover the country? Join up with Moose Travel Network, a "hop on, hop off" backpacker bus with routes in eastern and western Canada. The 12-to-24-passenger coaches take you to the most popular sites and activities (whale watching, river rafting, hiking, snowboarding, kayaking) and do night drops at hostels, guesthouse s, and campgrounds. They'll even book beds. Move at your own pace and catch the next bus when you're ready. The full British Columbia/Alberta loop (minimum ten days) is just US$264; the Niagara, Ontario, to Tadoussac, Quebec, loop (minimum nine days) is US$270. With no age restrictions, the service is simply suited to the young at heart-but most passengers are ages 18 to 35. Contact Moose Travel Network (East Coast office: 888/816-6673; West Coast office: 888/244-6673, moosenetwork.com). 15. Wheel deals How about a rental car, with unlimited kilometers, for a long four-day weekend, for just US$16 a day? Call an Avis office in any Canadian city and ask for the CAD$99 (US$64) special: an economy-class car from Thursday till Monday evening. This weekend rate tends to increase as you approach the summer, especially for holiday weekends-but if you book during winter you can reserve any weekend at the US$64 rate. And do it four times for a free weekend Find phone numbers online at avis.com.