How to Use Your Frequent Flier Miles

By C.J. Hughes
June 4, 2005
Redeeming your miles isn't as easy as you think. Read on for 10 insider tips and strategies for making the most of your well-earned rewards

For the seasoned road warrior, frequent flier miles are high-altitude currency, tucked away in a fat piggy bank for some spending spree down the road, whether for business or play.

Yet it may be better to break the bank sooner than later.

As older airlines hemorrhage money and newer airlines practically give away flights, the value of flying is in decline. That means the miles that buy the tickets to fly are declining, too.

So, rather than clinging desperately to those miles like dot-com stock offerings, watching them lose value while hoping they somehow turn around, take that trip to Kauai. Otherwise, you might have to settle for Kansas City.

Times weren't always so dire. Back in 1981, when American Airlines debuted its frequent flier program, "AmericanAdvantage," the system better favored the consumer.

Today, as other carriers have followed suit, cobbling together their own schemes to breed passenger loyalty, miles are earned on everything from groceries to long-distance phone calls. Everybody has miles stockpiled somewhere, so simply having them is not such a big deal.

To make matters worse for travelers, the rules of the vast, complicated frequent-flier miles game are constantly shifting. And, they usually tilt in favor of the house.

Better understanding of how the game works will help you milk the most out of your miles:

1. Redeeming miles is tough, getting tougher

If you want to fly to say, Dayton on a Tuesday, sure, you can probably lock in a seat. But that dream vacation may be much harder to lock down.

Airlines use sophisticated "yield management" software to perfect the art of knowing which flights are the most desirable, broken down per flight, by day. In any given year, only about 10 percent of all available seats may be available as "rewards" to passengers who want to cash in frequent flier miles.

But sometimes, every seat on a flight will be blacked out for those freebie-seeking passengers, and no one will be the wiser. That's the gist of a shocking internal American Airlines memo leaked to a frequent flyer website and picked up by the The Wall Street Journal in April. The memo (which was used to train new reservationists) acknowledges that even on some completely empty flights, there are no award seats available, even if the passenger books months in advance. Seats may open up eventually, it all depends on how the flight sells.

In other words, the system is far from transparent, and customers ultimately lose out, according to Tim Winship, contributing editor for Frequent Flyer magazine. "The airlines are worried about squeezing every last possible penny out of the demand out there," Winship says. "They don't want to displace a revenue passenger with a rewards passenger."

2. Watch out for other tricks

Another common complaint among business travelers is that airlines change the rules in mid-game, sometimes moving the finish line for an award. Whereas 25,000 miles may have been enough to land you a domestic, round trip restricted coach award--the de facto industry standard--you may end up racking up tens of thousands of more miles before a seat actually becomes available. Or you may encounter a reservationist who "suggests" you double the amount of miles for the frequent flyer seat to 50,000 and--bingo--the previously unavailable frequent flyer seat becomes available.

Certain travel agencies, such as Award Planner promise to find you a booking using your miles--often for flights that you've been told have no availability for reward tickets (they know all the tricks apparantly). But for this service they charge a fee of $39.95; $99.95 for an annual membership.

Another zinger: rush charges, slapped on for making reservations too late. These can range anywhere from $25 to $75, depending how far in advance of your departure date you book.

And there are other fees. Air Canada, for example, now charges passengers $25 Canadian per award ticket, if not purchased through its website. A few years ago, the same ticket would have, with miles, been totally free.

Regular business travelers are starting to notice, and lose faith.

"They make it impossible to travel anyplace desirable other than during monsoon season," says Jessica Wollman, a producer with Scholastic who flies about twice a month. "I usually hoard my miles and entertain fantasies of trips to tropical islands but end up using them for practical stuff, to get to weddings and job interviews."

3. At the end of the day, airlines win

Many people think that the way airlines make money is by "breakage," that is, by failing to redeem their miles for awards (more on this later). They don't. Their partnerships are the real profit-centers.

Take American, for example, which has the most participants, at 45 million (a somewhat disingenuous number; it includes every person who has ever signed up, living or dead, according to Winship of Frequent Flyer).

American boasts 1,500 partners, especially among hotels and rental-car companies. For every mile they award, the partner must pay American Airlines about two cents. It almost goes without saying that this adds up to hundreds of millions in revenue a year.

Compare the real, out-of-pocket cost of transporting you as a passenger. When you factor in the meal, a little jet fuel, and perhaps the time spent processing your ticket, that free ticket cost a measly $15. Clearly, frequent flier partnerships pay off with huge profit margins.

4. Blame JetBlue and Southwest for the rules changes

With a lot of fanfare, these upstarts came along and essentially slapped time limits on their versions of frequent flier miles. That means, if you don't use hit a certain magic number within a 12-month period and then redeem the miles in for a free ticket, your miles simply expire.

To use industry lingo, JetBlue and Southwest are increasing the "breakage" frequency. You're losing miles almost as quickly as you can rack them up, so these airlines don't worry giving away seats. So unless the passenger is a constant jet setter, this will be a losing proposition.

On the other hand, with older carriers like American, United, or Delta, the rules have always been more generous: The life of a frequent-flier account is automatically extended within a three-year period whenever there is any form of activity within it.

"I learned quickly that those JetBlue miles aren't worth it," says Jay Akasie, an M.B.A. candidate at Columbia University who flies about a half-dozen times a year. "As far as miles programs go, I'd stick with the older carriers any day."

5) When your airline goes bust, don't be so sure your miles won't

The airline industry is mired in a slump, slammed by soaring fuel costs and stiff competition from aggressive discounters.

To be fair, miles don't always vanish. In 2001, when TWA filed for Chapter 11, American Airlines purchased all of its assets, including its "Aviators Program." Members, and their miles, were instantly grand-fathered in.

Regular business travelers on National Airlines, however, weren't so lucky. When the Las Vegas-based airline went kaput in 2000, so did its "National Comps" program. All that customer loyalty was for nothing.

5. Wheeling and dealing miles could get you grounded

Savvy travelers, for business and pleasure, should know it's perfectly acceptable to give a plane ticket earned with frequent flier miles as a gift, as long no money is exchanged.

When money changes hands, or it is bartered, that's a different story.

People to watch out for: coupon brokers, who match sellers and buyers of award tickets. It's a practice flies in the face of the rules of frequent-flier programs, which stipulate in strong terms that miles are for use by you and you only. (You're not supposed to even transfer tickets to your spouse.)

If you do go the route of buying somebody else's award ticket, be warned that if the airline finds out, it could easily confiscate it. Conversely, if you try to make a quick buck by selling your award ticket, and the airline somehow learns of it, it can close down your account immediately.

There are some exceptions. Air Canada, Continental, and Northwest are now allowing passengers to transfer unwanted miles into another person's account with the same airline. But there is a fee and limits on many miles you can actually transfer.

6. Funneling miles between different airlines will cost you dearly

The online agency Points.com through its contracts with different carriers does allow the exchange of miles between various frequent-flier programs. The catch is, they can only be moved among accounts that are actually registered to you. Even worse, you will generally lose a whopping 90 percent of the value of the miles in the conversion process to fees.

Industry analysts agree that this is usually not a wise path to take unless the traveler is absolutely sure she will never use the miles, or if the airline itself is in peril. In this event, for a business traveler, that extra cost to unload the miles may not be a big deal.

7. Keep tabs on miles yourself

With so many cross-promotions out there, it's sometimes to keep track of your miles' running total.

While hotels usually do a pretty good job of making sure the miles you earned for your room end up in your account, retailers can be downright negligent, since there is usually not the adequate infrastructure in place to convey all those miles from the store counter to your airline. At best, huge time lags will be involved, which could be disruptive to travel plans. Save all receipts, and give yourself a wide lead time before booking your reward ticket, to make sure you get the miles that are coming to you.

8. Besides miles, don't forget preferred customer perks

Miles, unfortunately, won't get you inside those comfy airport clubs that can be the only refuge of peace, quiet, and cleanliness in crowded airports.

Why? Airport clubs are separate revenue generators for airlines. They would rather stick you with an annual subscription than let you get in for "free."

Along the same lines, frequent business travelers may want to focus more on scoring "elite" status, based not on your lifetime flying miles, but how much you actually fly in one year. These tiered elite rewards can lead to seat upgrades--as available, of course--which for many harried road warriors are infinitely more valuable than any free trip to Tortola.

9. As currency, miles don't go far

Most airlines state it plainly; frequent flier miles are good for one thing only: airplane tickets.

For many travelers, that's too bad, because more creative uses for them would likely help to spend them sooner.

American Airlines is one of the few exceptions to the rule. In limited quantities, you can redeem your miles for rental cars and hotel rooms, which could be seen as somewhat ironic. While American is limiting the number of freebie seats on its flights, according to the WSJ report, the airline is also turning back the clock to the way its frequent flier system operated a decade ago, when these kinds of cross-redemptions were available.

For those travelers who just want some gift for all those thousands accumulated miles, this policy adjustment may come as good news.

10. It will get worse before it gets better

As some airlines continue their possible death spirals, they may become desperate to create revenue by any means necessary. That could mean more hidden restrictions on when you can fly, higher upfront fees, and more widespread raising of award levels.

Yet the ad onslaught continues. The Citibank AAdvantage card is currently offering 10,000 bonus miles just for signing up, while United is currently topping that with 15,000 sign-up miles. Yet however tempting, it's clear these miles are worth a lot less now than just a few years ago.

And the system doesn't seem like it will clue in travelers about how it works any time soon.

"There is no transparency, and that is what is outrageous about the whole system," says Winship of Frequent Flyer. "Consumers are totally in the dark about all this."

Plan Your Next Getaway
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Fine print: What makes insurers balk

If you're headed to the Caribbean this fall--when prices are cheap but hurricanes are possible--travel insurance seems like a sensible purchase. By the time some policyholders figure out what's covered, however, they're battling it out with a claims adjuster. "The onus is on the insured to know what's in their policy," says Peter Evans, executive vice president of InsureMyTrip.com. "If it's not specifically stated, there's no coverage." Log on to insuremytrip.com, quotetravelinsurance.com, and tripinsurancestore.com to compare plans; what they cost, cover, and pay out varies widely. But after reviewing a policy, there's one important question left: When are you not covered? You bought insurance after a weather warning was issued "Preexisting conditions" aren't covered by health insurance, and events deemed "foreseeable" aren't covered by travel insurance. To safeguard against the weather, your insurance must be purchased before the National Weather Service (nws.noaa.gov) issues a storm warning. The weather's not bad enough Insurers will only pay when travel gets delayed or canceled. If the airlines and the cruise ships are operating, you can either go on the vacation or lose your money. Your cruise itinerary changes When a port is expecting a rough storm, cruise lines often substitute a different port where the weather is more promising. If the cruise takes place--even if the new ports are second-rate--the insurance company doesn't owe you a dime. Plead with the cruise line instead; it might give out vouchers for future cruises. You're not delayed long enough Benefits don't kick in the moment your flight is delayed. Instead, there's a waiting period--typically 5 to 12 hours, depending on the policy--before you can book a hotel for the night and expect to get reimbursed. The delays have made you want to cancel The initial flight on your seven-day trip to St. Thomas is postponed overnight, and you have to stay at an airport hotel (covered under your policy, thank goodness). The next day, flights are still delayed. You want to scrap the trip, but you can't--not if you hope to get reimbursed. With some policies, more than half of your vacation has to be delayed before you can cancel and be covered. The hotel is ruined, but the airlines are flying A hurricane hits Jamaica two weeks before your trip, ripping the roof off your hotel. If flights are running on your departure date, insurance might not do you any good. Even if your hotel is completely destroyed, most policies don't have to pay, as long as you can still get there. One exception is from Travel Guard, which words its policy more broadly than others and ponies up if the destination is ruined.

Free Wheelin'

Bruce Todd finds it hard to resist driving other people's vehicles. "I've been driving people's cars for ten years now and ninety-nine percent of the time I've had fun doing it," he says. "It saves the cost of a rental car. And in the end, I always meet the owners, who are appreciative and congenial." Such was his summary of the automobile transportation industry's best-kept secret--the driveaway. If rental car fees are a tad steep for your pocketbook, "driveaway" may be the way to go. What is it? It's a mutual favor that you do for someone you haven't met and may never meet. They let you drive their car for free with the stipulation that you take it where they need it to be (usually this involves long distance driving). It enables cost-conscious travelers to cut vacation expenses to a stunningly low figure. How it works While driveaway offers do pop up occasionally on popular internet bulletin boards such as Craig's List (craigslist.com), most vacationers who engage in this activity don't go the casual, person to person route. Most contact one of the many professional auto delivery companies across the United States. "We are a service almost like a matchmaker", says David Burke, owner of Auto Driveaway New York City (225 West 34th St., Suite 1201, New York, 212-967-2344, autodriveaway.com). "We connect people who like to travel, but don't like to spend a lot of money, with cars headed in the same direction." Not everyone will be eligible to become a driveaway driver. As a general rule, drivers are expected to pass a screening test, which for most consists of driving record verification. Some offices will run your driver's license against a national listing of bad drivers. Participants must also be 21 or over to apply. If approved, they are required to leave a bond deposit of about $300, which is returned once the car is transported safely, within the expected time frame, to its destination. Finally, drivers are expected to cover anywhere between 300-500 miles a day. It can also take a bit of time to find a car that's going in the direction you want to travel. Flexibility is the key here. If you can travel at the drop of a hat, or if you're willing to go to a nearby city to start your driving vacation, your chances of finding a match increase exponentially. Drivers should also look into "staging." If a car is not going exactly where they hope to go, they may be able drive one car from point A to point B, then another car from B to C, and so on. Neatness also counts. Drivers are expected to keep the car tidy and to clean it before drop-off. If you deliver a car filled with crumbs and candy wrappers you can be sure that the driveaway company won't accept your application next time. The "Big Kahuna" in Driveaways Cornering the market for volunteer drivers, Auto Driveaway moves more than 18,000 vehicles a year just with its standard driveaway service and has over 50 offices in the largest traffic markets in the U.S. and Canada. No other company works with as many non-salaried drivers. It has built a regular clientele on both sides (drivers and car owners) of its driveaway business. To ensure that vehicles are delivered in the same condition in which they are received, it requests that drivers fill out a condition report prior to departure. In addition, it supplies drivers with an itinerary plan and estimated mileage allotment. In return, the driveaway company gives its volunteers an additional mileage allowance for reasonable detours and occasional sightseeing. There's also a fairly generous amount of time allotted to compensate for unexpected road construction delays and inclement weather. Each of Auto Driveaway's separate offices adheres to general guidelines, but is free to determine its own rules and regulations, so it is difficult to summarize a hard-and-fast policy. If you pick up a car from its Los Angeles branch, you will not be expected to call them unless you have a serious problem on the road. Not so in Orlando, where the owners expect drivers to check in every day or two. In the words of Allan Cornman, owner of the Orlando office, "We are pretty liberal and understanding when it comes to unexpected delays, and we will waive most penalties if the driver gives us a good reason, and communicates with us regularly during the course of the trip." All offices start you off with a free tank of gas (after that you must pay yourself) and require that drivers not be on the road from 10pm until 5am for safety reasons and insurance reasons. There's no drinking, eating or smoking permitted in any of the vehicles, and there can be no more than three passengers in the car at any one time. The competition With just three offices (in Dallas, Culver City and Highland, Indiana) Schultz-International (9905 Express Drive Unit #2, Highland, IN, 800-619-7707 or 219-934-2000, transportautos.com) is a much smaller company, but still quite reputable. The deposit here is $335, of which you get $300 back when you deliver the vehicle to its owner (when driveaway companies have a limited number of terminals in other cities, they usually schedule a door-to-door delivery). Upon departure, the company will specify the route you are to follow and supply you with a tank-full of fuel for free, after which you will be responsible for any additional gas, as well as your own food and lodging. With Schultz you are eligible for a "gas bonus" if you're driving a larger vehicle. The company, however, does cover the cost of insurance. As is the practice in most driveaway companies, which advise that you drive no more than eight hours a day--leaving some time for rest stops and meals--Schultz-International also provides a time frame for delivery of the vehicle. Driving from Chicago to anywhere on the West Coast, for example, you would be expected to complete the trip in as many as seven days, while a trip to a southern destination like Atlanta will grant you four. Things to keep in mind One important thing to remember when planning a driveaway trip is that while its money-saving and sightseeing qualities are hard to rival, it is still a serious undertaking. When drivers lose track of time and miss the delivery deadline without a valid reason (driveaway companies strongly encourage communication and regular updates from their drivers so that they stay aware of any possible delays), or exceed the mileage allotted for their trip, they will be fined accordingly. "Knowing that you're running late and not reporting to us equals stealing a car," says Mr. Cornman. But despite the time restraints, this is usually a hassle-free method of travel. "In all 15 years since we've been open, we've only had one minor driveaway incident," reports Don Harris owner of the Tampa branch of Auto Driveaway, "The A/C in the car failed, and the driver, whose companion was an elderly woman, had to stop at a nearby city and have it fixed." (The client paid). According to Harris, the vast majority of drivers encounter no problems whatsoever. He goes on to say that driveaways attract a wide variety of participants from "winter residents returning to the Northeast to young international travelers touring the country, to elderly couples taking that long-planned trip out west." Why not join them? Even with rising gas costs, there's no better--and cheaper--way to get where you're going.

Road Trips

Into the Outer Banks

Living not far from the Outer Banks, my wife, Sandy, and I have visited there often--and each time, as we glided farther and farther into the Atlantic Ocean, I was stirred by the strange sensation that I was navigating a boat rather than a car. Maybe not so strange, actually, when windswept waves stretch for miles on either side. July and August are peak season for surf and sun. A family playground, the islands hawk all the expected beach amusements: parasailing, waterskiing, Jet Skiing, canoeing, kayaking, sailboarding, deep-sea fishing, and horseback riding. But any time of year is fulfilling. I've gone in midwinter to hike miles of empty beaches, watching the spindle-legged shorebirds probing the sand for lunch. Day one: Norfolk to Kill Devil Hills The drive from Norfolk, Va., passes through mostly flat coastal farm country, and in mid-summer roadside stands sell fresh corn and other produce. After the flatlands, the lofty sand dunes of the Outer Banks seem almost like mountains. At their widest, between Kitty Hawk and Nags Head, the Outer Banks expand to about a mile. This is where you find the most popular beaches--the ones that draw the summer throngs. In the heart of the bustle, little Kill Devil Hills, a family resort town, provides the beach time you crave plus a look at one of America's most historical spots. Check into the tidy 54-room Cavalier Motel, which nudges right up to the beach dunes. Soak up some sunshine at the pool or the beach, but save time for a visit to the Wright Brothers National Memorial, just a few minutes away. On a sand-covered site at Kill Devil Hills a century ago, Orville and Wilbur Wright launched the first manned heavier-than-air craft to leave the ground by its own power. The flight lasted all of 12 seconds, and the plane, with Orville at the helm, covered less distance than the length of a modern airliner. But air travel was born. Markers indicate the takeoff and landing spots--so close together that it seems the brothers might more easily have jumped. The visitors center displays a replica of their aircraft; atop Big Kill Devil Hill, an impressive granite monument pays tribute to their achievement. Rising to 90 feet, the hill is one of the highest spots in the Outer Banks--make the climb for a 360-degree view. Afterward, join the crowds at Pigman's Bar-B-Que, a no-frills joint. You can't go wrong with the messy pork ribs, which are served with coleslaw, baked beans, and plump hush puppies. Day two: Kill Devil Hills to Manteo Today's drive temporarily leaves the Atlantic shore for 13-mile-long Roanoke Island, behind the Outer Banks in Roanoke Sound. Start the morning by testing your courage. See that line of folks on the high dune in the distance? They're waiting for their Wright moment. Hang-gliding lessons are a major activity at Jockey's Ridge State Park. The fragile aircraft are launched from 80-foot-high sand dunes. Kitty Hawk Kites, the world's largest hang-gliding school, has a three-hour introductory course (including five solo flights). You can expect to cover up to 75 yards. Some gliders, maneuvered by confident, well-coordinated students, float gracefully back to earth. Others plummet with a seemingly painful thud into the not-so-yielding sand. Too scared? Stop by anyway to watch the often comical antics of the first-timers. You'll want to hike the dunes to the launch area for a close-up look. An exhibit in the park visitors center notes that the surface of the sand here can exceed the air temperature by 30 degrees. Take heed: Wear shoes. On to the waterside village of Manteo, where Sandy and I check into the Dare Haven Motel, about 10 minutes from the beach. We head first for the harbor on Shallowbag Bay. Sailboats drift over the sound, and just across an inlet rests the 69-foot Elizabeth II. The featured attraction at Roanoke Island Festival Park, this replica of a 16th-century sailboat represents the type of ship that carried English colonists to the New World during the reign of Elizabeth I. Onboard, costumed interpreters answer our questions, speaking with Old English accents. Questions, naturally, tend to be about the Roanoke mystery. In May 1587, three British ships carried 117 settlers to Roanoke. A week later, the colony's governor sailed back to England for supplies. The threat of the Spanish Armada delayed his return for three years. When the governor finally made it back in 1590, the colony had vanished. Historians can only speculate on what happened. There are re-creations of the first settlement site (talk to the "colonists") and an Algonquin village, and at the Roanoke Adventure Museum youngsters can don Elizabethan garb or learn about Blackbeard's visits to the Outer Banks. Nearby, Fort Raleigh National Historic Site marks the location of the ill-fated colony. The formal Elizabethan Gardens memorialize the colonists. Adjacent to the fort, the mystery is dramatized in an outdoor theatrical spectacle, The Lost Colony, with clashing swords and fireworks; it's presented nightly (except Sunday) in the summer (May 31-August 20). Kids might find it tedious, but I, a history major, was interested. Grab some dinner at Big Al's Soda Fountain and Grill, a '50s-era café with an all-American menu; fresh seafood dinners with fries and slaw cost about $14. Or ditch The Lost Colony and go howling with the wolves. It's one of the offbeat nature programs sponsored by the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge, west of Manteo. Until the 18th century, red wolves roamed the area, but then they disappeared. Eight wolves were reintroduced onto the 152,000-acre refuge in the late 1980s; the population has since grown to more than 95 and has spread throughout the refuge and beyond. Children love to howl, and parents aren't shy about joining in. If everybody gets the sounds right, the wolves usually howl in reply. Two-hour "safaris" begin at 8 p.m. on summer Wednesdays. Day three: Manteo to Buxton This is the Outer Banks I like best, the quiet southern end. The islands narrow considerably here; at their skinniest, only a few hundred yards separate the rough Atlantic from calm Pamlico Sound. Much of the seashore is protected, either as Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge or Cape Hatteras National Seashore. You'll find miles of nearly desolate beaches, their wild beauty mostly untouched except by wind and sea. Towering dunes topped by wind-stunted trees frequently block sight of the ocean. But there are stairways at the many pullouts along the way. Keep your swim trunks handy. The 156-foot-high Bodie Island Lighthouse serves as a visitors center for the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. Exhibits illustrate the early seafaring dangers in the area. As many as 600 ships have wrecked on the shifting coastline since 1526, earning it the unhappy nickname Graveyard of the Atlantic. South of the lighthouse, the road hops from Bodie Island to Hatteras Island over an arched bridge and long causeway. At the end, stop at Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge. Nearly 400 species of birds have been identified here, including odd migrants blown off course by fierce Atlantic storms. Learn also about the Oriental, a Civil War steamer that struck a sandbar and sunk. The ship's boiler is visible in the surf. At either visitors center, be sure to check out the ranger-led activities, which are free or minimally priced. Canoe on the sound, take a bird-watching walk, learn how to catch crabs, build a kite, or go snorkeling or fishing. South of Avon, a small day-use park called Canadian Hole draws windsurfing throngs, who flit like butterflies across the flat waters of Pamlico Sound. The steady winds and shallow water are said to be ideal for novices. At Cape Hatteras, test your leg muscles by climbing the 268 steps to the top of the still-operating Cape Hatteras Lighthouse--at 210 feet, it's the tallest brick lighthouse in the U.S. Built in 1870, it was threatened by erosion for many years--until 1999, when it was moved a half mile inland. Spend the night in the sound-side village of Buxton, a mile from the lighthouse, Dine across the highway at the Diamond Shoals Restaurant, named for a bank of shifting sand ridges hidden in the treacherous waters off Cape Hatteras. On the family-friendly menu, try the catch of the day, usually sea trout ($13.95). And then return next morning for one of the famous hearty breakfasts. Day four: Ocracoke and Back to Norfolk In the morning, we catch the free car ferry to Ocracoke Island. The road to the landing passes through one of the areas hit hardest by the hurricane, and you're still likely to see some damage. Waves briefly washed out the road between Frisco and Hatteras, creating a temporary inlet between the Atlantic and the sound. But the road has since been reopened. The ferry takes 40 minutes. On Ocracoke, Highway 12 continues for another 13 miles through the mostly untouched seascapes of Cape Hatteras National Seashore to the village of Ocracoke and the Ocracoke Lighthouse. (The highway is sometimes closed during bad weather, so check with the highway department.) En route, stop at the Pony Pasture, a 100-acre field nurturing a small herd of the island's unique ponies, possibly descendants of Spanish ponies that survived a shipwreck. Unlike other horses, Ocracoke ponies have one fewer rib--17 instead of 18. Then ferry back to Hatteras, Buxton, and the beach. After the history lessons, you've earned more playtime. Finding your way The closest major airport to the Outer Banks is in Norfolk, Va., about 70 miles to the north. Southwest Airlines provides service from most of the country. A car is essential; at summer's peak, expect to pay $130 to $140 for a week's rental of a compact with unlimited mileage. The Outer Banks Visitors Bureau (877/629-4386, outerbanks.org) distributes a 112-page travel guide. Call for a copy, or pick one up at the visitors bureau. It's a mile past the Currituck Sound Bridge (U.S. 158), in Kitty Hawk. 1. Norfolk to Kill Devil Hills From the Norfolk airport, take I-64 south to Virginia State Route 168 south. In Barco, N.C., pick up U.S. 158 south via Kitty Hawk to Kill Devil Hills. U.S. 158 is the speedier bypass to Kill Devil Hills, ending a few miles beyond the town. Along here you'll find many restaurants, service stations, and other tourist facilities. Paralleling it is Highway 12, the old beach road, which runs the length of the Outer Banks from Corolla in the north to the southern tip (via ferry) of Ocracoke Island. On Highway 12, the slow road, you're finally at the beach. 2. Kill Devil Hills to Manteo Continue south on U.S. 158 to U.S. 64/264 west across Roanoke Sound to Roanoke Island and Manteo. 3. Manteo to Buxton Double back to U.S. 158/Highway 12, continuing south on Highway 12 to Buxton. 4. Ocracoke and back to Norfolk From Buxton, follow Highway 12 to the end of the pavement and the dock for the Ocracoke ferry. The 30-car ferries operate year-round; in summer, they depart to and from Ocracoke every 30 to 60 minutes. On Ocracoke, pick up Highway 12 and follow it to its end in the village of Ocracoke. Then retrace your route back to the mainland and Norfolk.

The Essentials of a Yosemite Vacation

A great many people - and you can count me among them - will tell you that Yosemite National Park in California is the most beautiful place in America. Towering granite walls. Cascading waterfalls. Majestic groves of giant redwoods. My eyes are dazzled and my spirits soar every time I go. But what many people don't know is that this premier vacation spot - a park everybody ought to see (in my opinion) at least once - ranks also as one of America's best vacation bargains. You can travel on the cheap here knowing that in terms of nonstop scenic views and hearty outdoor fun you're really going first-class. So what makes Yosemite such a good deal? Both inside the park and outside it in neighboring communities, good, comfortable lodgings in appealing mountain settings are quite reasonably priced - although you may have to book early (like right now) to get the best buys for the popular summer season. In Yosemite Valley itself, the bustling heart of the park, you'll find an unusual village of canvas tent cabins that provide rustic but otherwise cozy accommodations for just $40 a night per couple (plus tax). I don't know of a better lodging bargain anywhere - and yet you aren't really roughing it here. Equipped with electric lights, these tents are a far cry from camping. You even get fresh linens, and a crew of housekeepers tidies up. The hot showers are just down a pine-shaded path. I return to Yosemite almost every year for serious hiking. More than 800 miles of marked trails-some of them easy, many of them strenuous - trace the huge, ruggedly mountainous park. That's plenty enough to fill anyone's vacation, and unless I factor in the cost of a sturdy pair of boots, I don't spend a penny. But even nonhikers can enjoy full days of no-cost or low-cost fun. Awestruck visitors spend hours watching daredevil rock climbers slowly ascend El Capitan, a sheer, 3,000-foot-high granite rock wall towering above Yosemite Valley. It's a great show, and it's free. Many folks are content simply taking in the majestic views on sight-seeing drives or easy strolls. I first visited Yosemite as a teenager, when my parents moved to the nearby town of Merced. The park captivated me, and I'm eager now to share my enthusiasm for it. I'll show you where to stay, where to eat, and where to play - all on a budget. Unlike many parks, Yosemite is open year-round. Summer is the busiest and most expensive season; winter is much quieter and cheaper. Which is better? Each season has its appeal, and I'll help you decide which is for you. Having fun - Yosemite style On a recent visit to Yosemite, I quickly jotted down two dozen interesting and rewarding things to do for free. I don't have space here to list them all, but the point is that this park will keep you busy - whether you stay for a day or a week. In Yosemite, the thrills are real; at a theme park, you pay big money simply for simulated excitement. Here are four of my favorite no-cost adventures that many guides overlook: Climb the Mist Trail One of the most spectacular - and scary - day hikes in America, the three-mile (round-trip) trail out of Yosemite Valley ascends countless steep stone steps alongside thundering Vernal Falls, which plunges 317 feet. As you climb, the powerful falls seem almost near enough to touch; their roar drowns any conversation. But watch your step; a stumble could tumble you over a precipice. Often a rainbow forms at Vernal's base, created by the billowing, cloudlike mist that gives the route its name. If a breeze is blowing, the mist is apt to drench you. Tote lunch in your day pack (fruit, trail mix) and picnic at the summit while you rest - and dry off. Frolic on the Merced River Once the Merced makes its dramatic leap over Vernal Falls, the river quiets down. Adventurous souls can float it on inflatable mattresses or inner tubes (you provide). Or you can rent family-sized rubber rafts ($12.75 per person). The rental fee pays for a shuttle ride back to the launching site. Otherwise you walk, as I recently did - a hike of a mile or two depending on how far you float. Sandy beaches along the river's winding path invite swimming or simply napping under the sun. The Merced is formed by Sierra Nevada snow melt; by midsummer the water warms up some but is never above 55 degrees. Take a lesson in outdoor photography Thursday through Sunday mornings year-round, the Ansel Adams Gallery hosts a free 90-minute walk and photography class presenting Yosemite through the camera's eye. For years, Adams captured the valley's unusual beauty in his now very expensive black-and-white photos. You don't have to buy a print; just use those on exhibit as examples of what you might achieve. Similar photography walks are offered Monday through Thursday by Yosemite Concession Services, the organization operating the park's lodgings. Hours and location of these and other day and evening programs (most for free) can be found in the Yosemite Guide, a seasonal paper distributed at the Yosemite entrance gates. Stroll through a giant sequoia Yes, "through." To draw tourists to the park at the turn of the century, promoters cut tunnels high and wide enough for stagecoaches in two towering giants in the Mariposa Grove of sequoias. One tree toppled in 1969, but the California Tunnel Tree remains standing. Sequoias are the world's largest living things known to mankind - and they are among the oldest. Some have stood for 3,000 years. Many people, overwhelmed by their majesty, compare the experience of viewing the sequoias to visiting an ancient European cathedral. No fee here to gaze and reflect for as long as you like. Affordable lodging and dining inside the park Camping is cheapest, but let's assume you prefer a roof over your head. The best place in Yosemite to stay is Yosemite Valley, the hub of the park. But summer accommodations are often sold out months in advance. So you may have to find a place for the night in the mountain and foothill communities near the park. I've scouted out plenty of options (all rates are for the 2000 summer high season). As a budget traveler, your first choice within the park should be the canvas tent cabins (with solid wood flooring) at century-old Curry Village in Yosemite Valley, where I've stayed on several occasions. Set in a pine forest beneath a towering granite cliff, the village is comprised of 427 tents - enough so that last-minute vacancies sometimes are available even on holiday weekends. Each is furnished with two to five cots with full bedding, which means a family can share, although space is tight. The basic $43 fee is for two people; the charge for each additional adult is $6 and children under 12 are $3. An electric light dangles from the ceiling, a dresser with mirror is provided, and the tent door can be locked. You should sleep well in the cool night air (some tents have heaters), but canvas is thin and the wail of a child does sometimes echo across the night. Several large rest rooms are scattered throughout the village, and separate bathhouses provide private hot-water showers and dressing rooms. A large woodsy-looking lodge building holds clusters of easy chairs where you can write postcards beside a roaring fire. If the Merced River proves too chilly, then jump into Curry Village's swimming pool (summers only). Free evening ranger programs and other entertainment are presented in the outdoor amphitheater. As for meals, you won't want to dine anywhere except at the Curry Village cafeteria, an architecturally attractive building with high ceilings and lots of wood paneling. At breakfast, a bowl of cold cereal and two slices of toast is $2.40. Add $1.15 for a large glass of juice. At dinner, an entree of fried chicken is $3.95; green salad, 35[cents] per oz.; and a glass of house wine, $3.15. Other somewhat more expensive valley options include individual cabins with or without private bath at Curry Village or lodge rooms with bath at both Curry Village and Yosemite Lodge. Many Yosemite Lodge rooms open to magnificent views of famed Yosemite Falls, a five-minute walk away. A cabin without bath is about $60 a night for two; with bath, $75. A standard room with bath begins at about $92; deluxe lodge rooms start at $114. A second cafeteria at Yosemite Lodge offers a menu with prices similar to Curry Village's. Elsewhere within the park, a riverside cluster of odd structures of canvas and concrete form what is called Housekeeping Camp, where folks without tents or recreational vehicles can go camping. These four-person shelters - with picnic table and a cooking area - rent for $43 a night. And in a mountain meadow well away from the sometimes crowded valley, the venerable Wawona Hotel (built in 1879) charges $94 a night for a room for two with shared bath. The hotel's restaurant is moderately priced. All park accommodations can be booked through Yosemite Reservations (559/252-4848). Outisde the park There is nothing quite so cheap - or so scenically situated - as the above-mentioned Curry Village. But White Chief Mountain Lodge (559/683-5444), a 23-room motel in the tiny town of Fish Camp near Yosemite's southern entrance (Route 41 from Fresno), comes close. "I'm not chasing a buck any more," says owner Wally Stovall, 76 and retired from the electronics business. "I'm just having a hell of a good time." And his prices reflect this. A motel room in the pine woods is $65 a night for two. At the lodge restaurant, $12 buys you an entree of rainbow trout served with soup or salad, a baked potato, and fresh vegetables. Just down the hill, two-story streamside cabins (with full kitchen) at Owl's Nest Lodging (559/683-3484) rent for $110 a night for two people. However, four can stay for $140. Cook your own meals here or dine at White Chief Mountain. Owners Robert and Barbara Taylor have hiked many of the park's trails and can point you to hidden waterfalls only the local folks know about. If you want something fancier, try Yosemite View Lodge (800/321-5261) in the town of El Portal just outside Yosemite's western entrance (Route 140 from Merced). The modern 278-room motel stands alongside the Merced River, which cascades out of the park in a frenzy of white water. The setting is gorgeous, and the rooms border on deluxe. Unfortunately, the cheapest accommodations ($109 a night for two) face the road. For a room with a balcony overlooking the river, the rate begins at $139. But everybody is welcome to use the heated river-view swimming pool and hot tubs. At the lodge's attractive restaurant, a platter of fried fish with coleslaw and batter-fried potatoes is about $9. More distant from the park, the two attractive Sierra foothill communities of Oakhurst (Route 41) and Mariposa (Route 140) offer a wide choice of well-priced lodging and dining options. I suggest staying in either town only if you are planning a one-day trip to Yosemite. Though each is only about 50 miles from the park, the driving time into Yosemite Valley can stretch from 60 to 90 minutes one way. To see the best of Yosemite without retracing your path, enter the park from the Oakhurst entrance and exit to Mariposa, or vice versa. The overhanging balconies along Mariposa's main street are a legacy of its gold-mining days. In both towns, you'll enjoy a view of pine-covered ridges. All the motels are well kept and boast swimming pools, and most provide a complimentary continental breakfast (ask when booking). In Oakhurst, try for the Ramada Limited (800/658-2888), about $95 a night for two; Oakhurst Lodge (800/OK LODGE), about $78; and the Comfort Inn (800/221-2222), about $90. The Comfort Inn offers a 10-percent-off coupon for dinner at the neighboring Jade Gazebo Restaurant, where the special Mandarin Chinese Dinner is $6.95. For western-style grub, the Sierra City Grill (outdoor balcony dining) treats you to a full dinner of barbecued pork spareribs, roasted potatoes, ranch beans, salad, and marinated red cabbage for $11.95. In Mariposa, I recommend the Best Western Yosemite Way Station (800/528-1234), $79 a night for two; the hilltop Miner's Inn Motel (888/646-2244), about $68; and the Comfort Inn (800/221-2222), $59 and up. At dinnertime, head for the Gold Rush Grill, a family restaurant atop an Old West saloon. For light diners, the broiled chicken breast dinner is $11.95. If you're just back from a strenuous hike, maybe the rib eye dinner ($14.95) is what you're looking for. Yosemite roads Most Yosemite visitors drive to the park. The nearest large airport is in Fresno, about 105 miles from Yosemite Valley. The city is served by most major airlines. But you might be able to get cheaper fares into San Francisco, Oakland, or San Jose - all roughly 200 miles away. The Yosemite Entrance Pass is $20 per car, good for a week. Seniors 62 and older can buy a lifetime Golden Age Pass to all national parks for $10, which also admits everybody else in the group. To save on the cost of a rental car (particularly solo travelers), travel to Yosemite by bus, departing from Fresno (spring into fall) or from Merced (year-round). The round-trip fare from Fresno is $48, with afternoon pickup at the airport or Amtrak station. From Merced, the round-trip fare is $38, with five daily pickups from the Amtrak station. Get schedules from VIA Yosemite Connection (888/727-5287). Once in Yosemite Valley, explore by foot (a gentle 13-mile trail circles the valley), bicycle ($20 per day rental), or by the free shuttle bus linking Curry Village, the Visitor Center at Yosemite Village, Yosemite Lodge, and the Happy Isles gateway to the Mist Trail. In summer, tour buses carry you into the high country. Your best budget bet is the trip up to Glacier Point, a lofty perch where the bird's-eye view of the valley 3,000 feet below is spectacular. Buy a one-way ticket ($10.50) and save the return fare by hiking back down to the valley. Depending on the trail you pick, the distance is either five miles (steep route) or eight miles (gradual). For other tours, call the Yosemite Lodge Tour Desk (209/372-1240). Pick your season The crowds thin, prices drop, and heavy snows close the high country above Yosemite Valley from autumn into late spring. May is usually the best month to see the falls flowing at their fullest; Yosemite Falls often diminishes to a bare trickle by August. Early autumn, when summer's heat abates, is prime time for hiking. And winter yields its own special beauty. The valley's walls are etched with snow, and giant icicles form alongside Vernal Falls. But winter is also the time for cold-weather sports - downhill and cross-country skiing, ice-skating, and snowshoeing. And it's the season for real bargains. At Yosemite Lodge in winter, the weekday room rate ($78 a night for two) includes complimentary chairlift tickets at Badger Pass ski area - and a free shuttle bus ride to get you there. Down in Oakhurst, the Oakhurst Lodge is willing to negotiate winter prices, says owner Don Olsen. In summer, Olsen has no trouble booking full at $78 a night, he says; in winter, figure on paying about $50 for the same room. Confirmed bargain-hunters can even shave six bucks off the price of a Curry Village tent cabin ($34 a midweek night for two).