"Genuine Tuscan cooking is hard to find. An exception is Osteria le Panzanelle, in Lucarelli, off the highway between Florence and Siena. The place is run by Nada Michelassi, a James Joyce scholar. Her food is true to the zona, which is why I love it. Take her panzanella, a tomatoey, herby dish made with stale Tuscan bread. It's normally awful--but it Michelassi's hands, it tastes magically of this place and no other."
--Bill Buford, whose book "Heat: An Amateur's Adventures as a Kitchen Slave, Line Cook, Pasta-Maker, and Apprentice to a Dante-Quoting Butcher in Tuscany" is out this June. Osteria le Panzanelle, 011-39/0577-733-511, panzanella, $6.