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Charlie Trotter is one of the top chefs in the US. His 18-year-old namesake restaurant in Chicago has won countless accolades, including seven James Beard Foundation awards. He's the author of 11 cookbooks and the host of the award-winning PBS cooking series, The Kitchen Sessions with Charlie Trotter. In 2000, Chef Trotter opened Trotter's To Go, a take-out gourmet retail shop in Chicago's Lincoln Park neighborhood, and in 2004 he debuted "C," a fine-dining seafood restaurant at One&Only Palmilla in Los Cabos, Mexico. As if that weren't enough, he's also a tireless advocate for excellence in the culinary arts, as well as an active humanitarian. Window or aisle? Window -- quick exit. What was the last thing you ate from a minibar? Sports water I won't leave home without... My mobile--always available anytime, anywhere The best trip I've ever taken? And why? Each one. It's always about making new friends, contacts, and seeing what's happening out there in restaurants. My dream trip? Something without a connection, a wait, or delay....kind of when the doors open up as I step up, an effortless travel day and one filled with kind people. The movie or book that inspired me to bag my bags? None. My greatest travel pet peeve? Loudness How I deal with jetlag? I jog the very next morning for 10-15 miles. If I could travel with any living person...My son, Dylan. I'll never go back to _____ And why? I don't mention bad experiences; I simply don't return. If I could be anywhere right now...Right where I am, now.

It takes an insider tip or a few wrong turns to wind up in the unassuming Freihausviertel, a small slice of the fourth district that is both centrally located and off the radar. (Guidebook maps tend to cut off right where the neighborhood begins.) Travelers who do make it here find small leafy squares, charming well-worn chapels, and low-rise buildings, some in sherbet pinks, mint greens, and peaches, and others still drab. The faint smell of coffee brewing trickles out of the many cafés and coffee roasters. There's an easygoing, energetic vibe and a feeling that you've finally figured out where the locals spend their time. The Freihausviertel's current renaissance is the result of a hands-on community initiative and the latest in a history of ups and downs. The area got its name--literally "free house"--in the 18th-century when it sheltered thousands of Vienna's poor and ran its own school, library, and theater (Mozart's The Magic Flute premiered here in 1791). Then came a slow decline and heavy bombing in World War II. By the late 1990s, boarded-up shop windows and dingy streets had become the norm. An article highlighting the Freihausviertel's plight appeared in the Kurier newspaper and caught the attention of gallerist Georg Kargl and antiques dealer Hannelore Kaffer. They banded together with a handful of businessmen to form a neighborhood association in April 1998. Kargl's gallery became the first of many to open on the main artery, Schleifmühlgasse, now the center of the city's contemporary art scene and the best place to score one-of-a-kind goods or just kick back with a melange, Vienna's version of the cappuccino. Here's a tour of the hotspots: (1) Nanadebary Cosmometics: Nana de Bary's bubblegum-pink boutique carries her fragrances, cosmetics, and totes, plus scents from the Santa Maria Novella perfumery, and baubles from L.A. designers Tarina Tarantino and Les Bijoux de Sophie. The signature brushstroke image of a leggy bombshell with a come-hither stare emblazons de Bary's form-fitting tees and bottles of musky fragrances topped by old-fashioned atomizers. Her two classic scents are Green (bergamot, basil, cardamom, and thyme) and the more potent Bronze (jasmine, cloves, and sandalwood). Paniglgasse 18-20, 011-43/1-532-4641, nanadebary.com (2) High Tea: Pots, cups, and all things tea-related are piled high in the front of the sprawling outlet. In back, the mellow lounge has appealingly lived-in couches, bowls of Indian sweets, vintage Chinese tea posters, and wooden screens. The menu spans 60 types of black, green, fruity, and herbal teas, each with a suggested wait time for the leaves to percolate. Two unobtrusive flat-screen computers let travelers stay connected for free. Paniglgasse 17, 011-43/1-504-1508, hightea.at (3-5) Schleifmühlgasse Galleries: Georg Kargl Fine Arts settled in a former printing shop in 1998 and has made waves for its unconventional, avant-garde shows. Christine König Galerie soon followed. Its stable of European and American artists tailor their presentations to match the gallery layout, and discuss projects on Saturdays at noon as part of the ongoing LunchLectures series (some are in English). Engholm Engelhorn's long, narrow space showcases up-and-coming talents working in a variety of media--painting, installation, sculpture, and video. Schleifmühlgasse 5; 011-43/1-585-4199, georgkargl.com; Schleifmühlgasse 1A, 011-43/1-585-7474, kunstnet.at/koenig; Schleifmühlgasse 3, 011-43/1-585-7337, engholmengelhorn.com (6) Pregenzer: In the loft above her shop, Austrian designer Jutta Pregenzer pieces together whimsical, flirty clothes that will make friends back home jealous. She pairs plaid cargo pants with a striped shirt and metallic leather jacket; a cheery floral skirt with a heavy corduroy blazer; paisley skinny pants with a beaded Indian tunic. Zippers, lace, and animal prints pop up in unexpected places. Schleifmühlgasse 4, 011-43/1-586-57-5, pregenzer.com (7) Schikaneder Kino: A one-stop destination for indie film screenings, experimental dance and theater performances, and nightly guest DJs. Techno, house, and pop are the beats of choice for the grungy hipster crowd. Rotating selections of local art encircle the bar. Margaretenstrasse 22-24, 011-43/1-585-2867, schikaneder.at (8) The Point of Sale: The corner location and floor-to-ceiling glass windows make this airy café a plum spot for a lazy afternoon of people-watching. Bagels and hearty breakfast dishes such as sausage and cheese with biscuits are available until 3 P.M. on weekdays and 5 P.M. on weekends. Schleifmühlgasse 12, 011-43/1-966-9891, thepointofsale.at (9) Rauminhalt: A mid-20th-century furniture gallery where everything on view is also for sale: a set of 1960s Italian pill-shaped lights; a leather swivel chair the color of butterscotch from Charles and Ray Eames; Carl Auboeck's flattened steel and wood fondue forks. While the focus is on European and American designs, Rauminhalt has an array of fabulously shaggy, earth-toned Berber carpets. Annual special exhibitions highlight Austrian architects who also create furniture. Schleifmühlgasse 13, 011-43/1-409-9892, rauminhalt.at (10) Henny Abraham: The shop is a long-awaited dream come true for its chatty owner Henny who, at 52, set off for Asia and scoured flea markets for beautiful, one-of-a-kind wares such as hand-stitched cotton bed covers from Rajasthan. Exotic items large and small include kaftans from Uzbekistan, old silk kimonos from Japan, hand-painted papier-mâché ornaments from Kashmir, and shoe bags from Vietnam. British and Austrian cutlery sets and faceted Austrian cut glasses are more classic souvenirs. Schleifmühlgasse 13, 011-43/1-513-7961 (11) Babette's Spice & Books for Cooks: The shelves at Babette's are crammed with English- and German-language recipe books, memoirs of chefs and restaurant critics, glossy coffee-table volumes, and guides to eating your way through various countries. The accompanying selection of spices (gewürz) and herbs (kraüter) includes cardamom, wasabi, and bergamot. Nathalie and Andreas, the two foodies in charge, can help match recipes from the books with their proper seasonings. They also stock pre-prepared spice mixtures, chutneys, and harissa, a North African hot sauce.  Schleifmühlgasse 17, 011-43/1-585-5165, babettes.at (12) Drei Kronen: The hotel faces the Naschmarkt, Vienna's largest and most colorful outdoor market. It's an ideal jumping-off point for exploring the Freihausviertel as well as Vienna's nearby attractions (Theater an der Wien, Secession Building, St. Stephen's, State Opera House). Its 41 art nouveau rooms have blonde wood furnishings, bright blue carpets, and crisp white bedding. Three crowns on the facade pay homage to the former empire of Austria, Hungary, and Bohemia, and to the hotel's name. Schleifmühlgasse 25, 011-43/1-587-3289, hotel3kronen.at, doubles from $110, includes buffet breakfast

Budget Travel Editors: Thanks for joining us this week. Let's get to your questions! _______________________ Houston, TX: I will be going to Maui for the first time for a wedding in late June and plan to stay for 9 days. The wedding is in the touristy Kaanapali Beach area on the last days of my trip. What do you recommend for the 1st part of the trip? BT Editors: There are too many options to name here, but if you want to check out cool, mellow areas that tourists rarely see, take a look at our feature on Maui in the May issue. It was written by someone who grew up on the island and knows the place intimately. You won't find many of the places mentioned in the story in other magazine articles or guidebooks. You might also want to check out a fairly recent Maui road trip featured in our magazine, which also mostly stayed away from the big touristy areas. _______________________ San Antonio, TX: I am taking a road trip with my two daughters (ages 10 and 14) from San Antonio, Texas to Washington, DC begining on June 5. What are some really cool hidden adventures and great things to see along the way? Those Off-the-beaten-path sort of things that are part of what makes America so great. BT Editors: In our magazine, we recently coached a couple driving from Boston to Los Angeles seeking similar kinds of off-the-beaten attractions. They wanted to drive the southern route to the West Coast and we sent them to cool places in Kentucky, Tennessee, and Texas, among other spots. Check it out here. _______________________ Clarksville, TN: How can a family of three - 2 parents and a teen - take a (fairly) economical trip to Iceland? We're intrigued about seeing the natural wonders of Iceland, but worried about the prices we hear. Plus, because of school schedules, we can only go in the summer. We don't want to camp, but we don't mind small guesthouses, B&Bs in private homes; we don't have to have private baths. BT Editors: Iceland has some of the planet's most spectacular (and unusual) natural scenery, not to mention it's the closest European country to the US, but it's expensive, which is why any trip to the Land of Fire & Ice requires careful planning. The most economical way to go is to book an air-hotel package through Icelandair Holidays. The vacation wing of Icelandair even allows you to "build your own package"....which enables flexibility on number of nights, activities, etc. Its spring/summer "midweek madness" packages start at $471 per person, which includes airfare and two nights' accommodation.Should you want to forgo a package, then book your flight with Icelandair, and investigate staying at a guesthouse, which can be much more affordable than hotels, especially in Reykjavik. In summer, many working farms open their doors to visitors for overnight stays too. For listings, check out the Accommodations section of the tourism board's website: Visiticeland.com.Since it's so easy to get around Iceland, we'd also suggest renting a car and exploring on your own, i.e. not spending the extra money for organized tours to places you can easily visit on your own. And don't miss out on the amazing community mineral pools and hot pots-they're inexpensive but you'll leave feeling like a million bucks. _______________________ Cleveland, GA: We are traveling to Croatia Nov. 1st. Our plan is to rent a car and drive from Dubrovnik to Zagreb. Should we reserve a rental car before we go? We reserved a rented car in Lublijana Nov. 2005 and I believe we could have gotten 20% off had we just gotten the car when we arrived. BT Editors: In general, we recommend visitors abroad, especially to Europe, rent their car BEFORE they go, since better rates can often be hand in advance. There are always exceptions, but a smart rule of thumb is to reserve your rental car from the US, from a reputable outfit that deals with all the major international agencies, such as AutoEurope.com. While you may find a cheaper rate on the ground, it's not likely to be from a major agency, and the quality/safety of rental vehicles cannot be guaranteed, nor are you guaranteed comprehensive coverage. _______________________ Atlanta, GA: My friend and I are planning a 2-3 week trip to London in July. What are the best deals on airlines and do you know of the best budget places to stay for that length of trip? Maybe something similar to corporate apartments like they have in the US? BT Editors: Our advice is to buy your tickets now. Do a search on SideStep.com to find the lowest price for the dates you're interested and make your purchase today. Once May arrives, prices of flights will skyrocket, when everyone starts to plan their summer travel. Virgin Atlantic and British Airways both have sales from the US to London right now. As for accommodations, there are numerous reputable apartment rental agencies, but you can get even better rates (and many of the same conveniences) by staying in a college or university dorm. Check out our article "Low-cost Dorm Stays in Central London." Also, look into rates at any of the Thistle Hotels in the city; their rates are superb for such a pricey city. And, for a list of more cool budget accommodations (and other ideas for your trip) download our London Snap Guide. _______________________ Orange, Texas: A friend and I are planning a trip to New York in September in hopes the weather will be cooler. Is that a good month? Also where should we stay--hotels or apartments? What is there to do as far as tours, etc.? BT Editors: September in New York City is divine-one of the best months of the year to visit, so rest easy. We can't promise the Big Apple won't experience an Indian Summer, but temps in September are typically in the 70s, and rain is minimal. In terms of affordable places to stay, check out the "Sleep" section of our New York City Snap Guide. You'll also find lots of other great ideas for your visit. Want a local's perspective and good insider tips? Read our article "My New York is Better Than Yours." _______________________ Orlando, FL: My wife and I are planning a trip to Buenos Aires in late May (21-28) and it will be our first time in the country. We like to enjoy the culture and learn about the people and their every day life when we visit a foreign country. We will also try to go to Iguazu for a couple of days. Can you recommend what is a "must" in Buenos Aires so we make sure we don't miss the highlights? Thanks! Juan BT Editors: First of all, take a look at our Snap Guide to Buenos Aires. You can print it out and take it with you. It's key that you find the right place to stay. We've written about two new affordable boutique hotels in the hip Palermo Viejo neighborhood recently: Home, and the Bobo Hotel. Much of what's interesting about Buenos Aires today is what happens after the sun goes down. There's incredible food, fun tango halls, and elegant wine bars. Take a look at this article we ran recently, in which we wrote about some of the best after-dark activities. _______________________ Livingston Manor, NY: Four adults leaving from Newark, NJ to Salzburg, Austria (3 days), Venice and Rome (3 days each) in September. What should we see? BT Editors: You've chosen three gorgeous, distinctive European cultural capitals packed with things to explore. Salzburg is an especially timely choice. The city is celebrating the 250th birthday of its most famous resident-Mozart! There are countless concerts and events large and small on the program in Salzburg and throughout Austria. For a complete rundown, visit mozart2006.net. Salzburg's storied summer festival, Salzburger Festspiele, will have just wrapped up in late August, but you can still catch a show at the new theater, The House for Mozart, which is opening this summer, and visit the composer's birthplace, Mozart's Geburtshaus. The weather should be perfect for frolicking in the surrounding hills where Salzburg's other big claim to fame--Sound of Music--was filmed. Panorama Tours offers an afternoon bus tour with stops at major sites from the movie such as the Mirabell Gardens, Leopoldskron Castle, and Nonnberg Abbey. Also be sure to check out Salzburg's new Museum der Moderne perched above the city. The café has terrific views. In picture-perfect Venice (La Serenissima, the most serene republic), you'll want to hit rightfully beloved tourist attractions like Piazza San Marco with its Basilica di San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale, the Rialto Bridge, a gondola ride, and a ride to Murano, where you can watch artisans blow colored glass. The art-rich city is meant for walking and getting inevitably lost. Host of the Biennale, Venice's world-class museums include the Musei Civici Veneziani and the Scuola Grande di San Rocco. And then there's the intimate opera house, Teatro La Fenice. For tips on where to eat, consult our article Eat Like a Local: Venice and Florence. Be sure to save some energy for your last stop in the Eternal City! You can find insider tips on the best city sights on and off the beaten path in Live Like a Local: Rome. Its latest attraction is the Ara Pacis Museum; American architect Richard Meier designed this new home for the ancient Altar of Peace. For guided walking tours, our top pick is Context Travel's team of historians, archaeologists, and foodies. They can get you into underground tombs and other normally restricted sites. You can find more information about the city at its official tourism site. And check back this summer for our Rome Snap Guide, the latest edition to our growing collection of mini-guides to the world's top cities. _______________________ Scotland: I am traveling to Scotland with two other female friends, from May 20-27. We have two nights already booked and planned for in Edinburgh. We know that that we want to travel north to the Loch Ness area, and then do the "whiskey" or "castle" trail back to Edinburgh. Is driving reasonable? How long will it take to drive from Edinburgh to the Loch Ness- Inverness area? Do you know of any reasonable lodging in that location? We are women ranging from 37-45 years of age. One person would like to travel on a hostel budget. Any cute lodging recommendations are extremely welcome. BT Editors: Lucky you! Scotland in May should be lovely. Inverness is only about 160 miles from Edinburgh (approximately 3 hours by car), so driving from Edinburgh to Inverness is very reasonable--as long as you remember to drive on the left-hand side of the road! There are many reasonably priced B&Bs and lodging in the Loch Ness and Inverness area. The Whinpark Guest House in Inverness is a family-run stone house close to the city center, and some rooms have views of the castle and River Ness. Doubles from $36 (£20), including breakfast. Or, if you prefer to room together, a family room (holds up to three people) also starts at $36 (£20)If you'd like to stay at a B&B overlooking Loch Ness (and Nessie!), try Evergreen B&B, located on the south side of Loch Ness and a five-minute walk to the shore. Doubles from $50 (£28), including breakfast. For more information, check out Scotland's informative website, visitscotland.com. _______________________ St. George, Utah: We are planning an extensive trip to Turkey June 7th through July 27, 2006. Any suggestions of must see places -plus some very interesting out of they way places. As you can see we think we have budgeted enough time to see Turkey and its people in a detailed manner. BT Editors: Turkey is an expansive country with a rich history spanning thousands of years and various cultural groups. It's got a fairly varied landscape as well, from deserts to mountains to beaches, so there's a lot to experience. Must-stop spots while there include the beautiful Cappadocia area in central Turkey, with its rock churches and "Fairy Chimneys" (cone-shaped rock formations), and, of course, Istanbul, which illustrates an evocative melding of new European sensibilities and old world Asian traditions. If you check out the ancient site of Troy, stop by the Assos, a peacefully quiet beach town not far away. If you'll be in the southeast, look into visiting the Mardin area (be sure to buy some locally made, silver filigree jewelry), Harran (with its interesting cone-shaped dwellings), and Hasankeyf (an architecturally and archaeologically rich town threatened with flooding due to a dam's construction). There is also Nemrut Dagi, or Nemrut Mountain, the southeast's biggest tourist attraction; it features giant head statues of several Roman gods and Antiochus I, who developed the site as his burial spot. Along the Aegean coast, worthwhile spots include: Foca, Ephesus, Pergamum (Bergama), Aphrodisias, Didim, Perge, and Cesme. For some arts and entertainment, head to the ancient Aspendos amphitheater on the Mediterranean coast near Antalya; operas, ballets, and musicals are performed here every year in June and July. In fact, the country has dozens of festivals held throughout the summer so you're sure to find something wherever you go. _______________________ Budget Travel Editors: Thanks again for all your great questions. _______________________

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