Erik Larson on London

Andrea Ross of Journeys Within, which offers tours of Southeast Asia, answers our questions about travel safety and day-to-day life in Bangkok since military leaders took seized control of the government on September 19 Q: When did you arrive in Bangkok, and what is your role there? A: I have been in Bangkok for the last month working from our office here. I am the director of tours for Journeys Within, so I'm spending time in Thailand working on our tours here and meeting with my Bangkok director. Q: What have the scene on the street and the mood been like in Bangkok? A: Coups are a prominent part of Thai history, though the last one was 15 years ago. No one here seems to view it as a breakdown of democracy, but rather an important step in reaffirming democracy. In Bangkok, Thaksin was very unpopular, so the mood here, if anything other than normal, is slightly excited. Yesterday while I was out running errands I saw a woman approach some soldiers stationed by the skytrain and wei (bow with hands together) to them. Though I could only understand part of what she was saying, the sentiment was clearly "thank you." Other than a slightly increased military presence, there is very little changed in the capital. Q: What advice would you give to travelers currently in Thailand? A: We have guests here at the moment and we called them the day after the coup to make sure they weren't worried, and they continued their tour as scheduled. We advised them to keep in touch with us if they had any concerns, and to continue as usual. Since we are based here we are able to see firsthand that the situation is incredibly calm and peaceful, so unless that changes our advice to our guests and other travelers is just to enjoy themselves and continue on as usual. It is worth, of course, having someone on the ground keeping an eye on things...we would advise our guests if we ever felt there was a need to leave the country. If you don't have a tour operator in Thailand then just check in online or watch the news to make sure the mood hasn't changed, but so far we don't anticipate any problems. Q: What can travelers with upcoming trips do to be sure that the situation is safe and that their plans are intact? A: Like I said, keep watching the news and making sure the situation hasn't escalated and check in with your tour operator in Thailand to see if they are comfortable with you still traveling...all of our tours are running as scheduled, and we are keeping in close contact with all our guests here now and those planning on arriving in the next couple of months. Q: Has the coup affected local services and infrastructure? A: The day after the coup, government offices and banks were closed and there was a declared holiday, but since then everything has been back up and running as usual. I ran errands yesterday and I didn't see anything out of the ordinary except a few more military on corners than we're used to. Q: What long-term impact do you think the coup will have on Thailand's tourism industry? A: I of course understand people's trepidation at coming to a country that is going through this political change, but I hope that people realize it is not affecting tourism, and tourism is an incredibly important aspect of the Thai economy. Though I'm sure there will be an effect on tourism here, none of our guests have cancelled their plans to come to Thailand and Southeast Asia; they have told us that as long as we feel the situation is safe they will continue as planned. I think because we are based here, we are able to give them realistic views of the situation, and they know that if there were a problem we are on the ground here and can help them however they need. I recognize that not everyone has that comfort, so I am sure that for a few months this will hurt the tourism industry, but Thailand is a fabulous country with amazing sites and people so I have no doubt it will continue to be a "must see." For more information, check the website of the U.S. Embassy in Thailand, http://bangkok.usembassy.gov/, and closely monitor news sources.

As of Tuesday, September 26, the U.S. government has partially lifted the ban against liquids and will allow passengers to take onboard drinks and items purchased in secure airport areas as well as travel-size toiletry containers of three ounces (90 ml) or less that are stored in a "quart-size, clear plastic, zip-top bag." Britain's Department of Transport announced last Friday that it has modified the tight restrictions placed on hand luggage after August's foiled plot to bomb trans-Atlantic flights with liquid explosives. Now travelers can carry on one bag up to about 22 inches by 18 inches by 10 inches (more than twice the size allowed before), and musicians can take larger instruments onboard. As for liquids, only essentials like medications and small amounts of baby formula are still permitted. Bottom line? Check for the latest updates before you fly. The TSA lists prohibited and allowable carry items on its Web site here: tsa.gov. And most airline Web sites also provide a link to the latest TSA rules on their sites.

Sampling the local food is a big part of what turns a plain trip into an experience to remember. The new book Biba's Italy: Favorite Recipes from the Splendid Cities, by noted chef and author Biba Caggiano, combines food and travel for those who want more from a cookbook than, well, simply how to prepare a dish. Biba's Italy is cookbook as experience. Caggiano gives her culinary take on five great Italian cities: Rome, Florence, Bologna, Milan, and Venice. She lists her favorite restaurant picks (Rome's Rosati, a local legend since 1923), and gives tips on markets and cooking schools. For each city, she mixes in her cultural memories of eating Italian-style (In Venice, we "eat progressively from one bacaro to another...") and practical advice on technique, such as how to refrigerate Ragu. She also includes a glossary of Italian terms to help you find your way around Italian dining. Add in 100 delicious recipes from appetizer to dessert, and you've got a cookbook you can sit down, read, and enjoy. Read it before your trip to plan an itinerary of great tastes. Then prepare the recipes when you return to keep that aroma of memory alive. Or if you can't actually get to Italy, these recipes do what all really good food does -- transport you there gastronomically. Don't know the difference between a Paninoteca and a Rosticceria? To get you started, we've excerpted helpful definitions from the Introduction, "Eating in Italy: Types of Eating Establishments" from Biba's Italy. Eating in Italy TYPES OF EATING ESTABLISHMENTS So, you are finally in Italy, tired but hungry. You took a walk in the center of town looking for a place to eat, and you found more than you bargained for. You probably know what a ristorante and a trattoria are, but what is an osteria, a tavola calda, a paninoteca, or an enoteca? Although these are all eating establishments, they often differ in the type of food they serve and in the style in which they serve it. The following list sorts out some of Italy's most common eating establishments. Ristorante: Italian restaurants are as diverse as the Italian landscape. Some elegant, expensive restaurants are the domains of celebrity chefs who specialize in creative cooking. Others are simpler establishments that serve the traditional food of the area. Restaurants will provide the customer with a printed menu and a wine list (see "A Typical Restaurant Menu" on page xv). Trattoria: A small, unassuming restaurant, generally family owned, that serves traditional homestyle food at reasonable prices. A trattoria is often a home away from home for many; students, young families, and people on a budget are ardent patrons. A trattoria usually serves a limited number of dishes. The service might be less polished than restaurant service. However, the bonus is that eating in a trattoria is like eating with an Italian family, whose basic, simple, and honest food tells the story of a people and a place. Often, trattorie do not have menus. Instead, the owner or the waiter will recite the menu of the day and suggest dishes and wines. Stay away from trattorie that offer a a menù turistico, which is a set meal for tourists that offers very standard, often uninspired food. Osteria or Hostaria: Generally a tavern or a wine shop that serves wine by the glass and offers a limited number of homey dishes. Soups, cheeses, cold cuts, savory breads, and pickled vegetables are some of the offerings, generally listed on a blackboard. It is a great place to relax over a glass of wine and some snacks, and to connect with your fellow man seated next to you. Enoteca: An urban, more gentrified wine bar than the humble osteria. Enoteche serve wine by the bottle and by the glass, and many have added more ambitious dishes to their menus. These are great spots to visit. Tavola Calda (hot table): An informal eatery that serves a selection of hot dishes to eat informally, standing up or to take out. Rosticceria: A shop that sells food to go, primarily roasted and spit-roasted meats, roasted potatoes, and sautéed vegetables at reasonable prices. The rosticceria is where Italians shop when pressed for time. A great place to visit and to pick up something for a picnic. Pizzeria: Pizzerias are divided into two categories: shops that make pizza and sell it by the slice or by square pieces (Italian teenagers seem to be eating pizza to go constantly), and regular pizzerias where you can sit at a table and choose from the many toppings. For Italians, the best pizzas are thin-crusted and crisp, and topped with only a few outstanding ingredients. Today these informal establishments often serve a small selection of pasta, salads, calzone, and savory pies as well as pizza. Paninoteca: A sandwich shop. But, boy, what great sandwiches. Panini (thus paninoteca) stuffed with seafood, ham, vegetables, and cheeses, alone or in appetizing combinations, can be bought there. These places are very popular in the larger cities, where most workers have only a one-hour break at lunch. Gelateria: An ice cream parlor. Italians rarely make gelato at home, nor do they regularly order it in restaurants or trattorie, for they prefer to walk to any gelateria or caffè and choose from a large number of flavors. Sitting at an outdoor caffè with a large glass of voluptuous gelato is a great Italian experience. Pasticceria: A pastry shop where pastries can be purchased to eat there or take away. Often a pasticceria also has a bar area that serves espresso, cappuccino, tea, and so on. Bars and Caffès: A bar is a place to stop for a quick espresso, cappuccino, tea, pastry, or an aperitivo, which are generally consumed standing at the counter. (An Italian bar has nothing in common with an American bar.) A caffè is a bar that has the addition of inside and possibly outside tables, and has waiter service. For Italians a bar also becomes an extension of home, a warm, comforting, hospitable place where you can, for a while, escape the pressure of daily life. The bar is also an important social institution that allows its citizens an active participation in simple everyday rituals where people of every walk of life mingle and pause, waiting at the shining counter for their beloved espresso. Excerpted from "Biba's Italy" by Biba Caggiano. Copyright 2006 by Biba Caggiano. All rights reserved. Published by Artisan. No part of this book may be used or reproduced without written permission from the publisher. "Biba's Italy" is available for purchase at Amazon.com.

BT Editors: Welcome to this week's Trip Coach. Let's get to your questions! _______________________ Miami, FL: I am planning a trip to Machu Picchu, and would like to know the best time of year to go weather wise. Aso I would like to hike the Inca Trails. Can you reommend a reputable tour group for my latest adventure? BT Editors: Machu Picchu is breathtaking--not only because of the altitude. In fact, BT included a visit to the ruins within the magazine's annual Dream Trip feature in the March 2006 issue. It can be found here. The dry season last from May through September, and is the best time to hike through the Andes. (Watch out for the crowds, though, especially in July and August.) You'll have the trails to yourself during the winter wet season, but you'll also have the risk of mudslikdes and trails washing out.Good sources for tour guides to Machu Picchu include travel books like Moon Travel and Lonely Planet and Budget Travel's 40 Best Bargain Vacations section and online Real Deals section, which list reputable companies (such as G.A.P Adventures, gapadventures.com) in Peru packages. _______________________ Woodland, CA: We (a couple in their 50s with a 21 year old daughter) are going to NYC during the holidays from San Francsico to visit our son who just started grad school. We are on a tight budget and are looking at Craigs List at apartments for rent. Do you have other suggestions? We would like to be close to the Chelsea area. We are trying to conveince another son to go with his wife and two small children. What are good activiites for a mixed age groups? BT Editors: New York is not known for its budget accommodations, and yet a slew of mid-range chain hotels have opened properties recently in the city. You can find a run-down of the new hotels in the July/August issue of Budget Travel. The online article can be found here. You can get a good range of inexpensive accommodations within BT's New York City SnapGuide also on the website as a free downloadable document.Craigs List and Couchsurfing.com are good alternative means of finding places to stay on the cheap, but with such a large group and small children involved, you may not want the element of surprise always involved in such matters, and it might be difficult finding something to accommodate your needs. The NYC SnapGuide is also a great resource for mixed-age activities, but you can't go wrong with visits to Central Park, the Rockefeller Center (including taking in the view from Top of the Rock), and the Bronx Zoo. _______________________ Littleton, CO: We're going to New Zealand and Australia. What is the most economical way to access local currency? Credit card, ATM, Traveler's Cheques? BT Editors: I found that when I was in Oz and NZ, the best thing to use was my credit card for purchases, as I was guaranteed that conversions were done at the moment of purchase and not once a day, as my bank would have done if I used my debit card. This worked great as, depending on where you are traveling, most places are very friendly about taking cards--even for a $2 latte (or flat white). However, even in Sydney and Auckland, you will inevitably need local currency--especially if you plan on checking out their great flea markets. I tried to take out the biggest wad of cash I could when I was pulling money out of an ATM. Foreign withdrawal fees are especially taxing in Oz, starting at $9 a transaction. Don't take out so much that you feel uncomfortable, but I found it helpful to keep a small amount on me, and the rest in a different wallet, that I kept separate. As a personal preference, I usually carry just enough in Traveler's Cheques when traveling to get myself out of a jam, should disaster strike. Check with your bank and credit card company about their fees. Also, let them know you're traveling so they don't think someone else is suddenly using your card down under. _______________________ Raleigh, NC: My son and I hope to go on a European backpacking tour for 1-2 weeks and are wondering when is the best time and cheapest way to go? BT Editors: Last year, my boyfriend and I backpacked through Europe in April and May. We flew in and out of Paris and passed through Nice a couple times. We were both surprised how different both cities seemed when comparing early April and mid-to-late May. April was very rainy in Paris; and in Nice, beach weather was still a ways around the corner. However, by May both cities were fantastic, but not crowded by summer tourists yet-- meaning we were able to barely beat high-season tourist prices. After a bit of comparison-shopping, we found that for the two of us, it was actually cheaper in most cases to stay in a modest two or three star hotel, rather than booking single beds in hostels. Also, some of our favorite meals were picnics of hand-cut cheeses, warm baguette and fresh fruit from the outdoor market with a bottle of wine. A cheap and fun way to experience local climate-- watch what others buy to find out what's best in each region. _______________________ Kansas City, MO: My family and I are traveling to New York City in April 2007 and since there are 8 of us, I was wondering if it would be better to try and rent an apartment or suite. Do you know of any agencies I can contact about finding a property? Also, we are wanting to be near Carnegie Hall as my niece will be singing there! BT Editors: I would check out Craigslist.com. I moved here from California six months ago, knowing little to nothing about the area, nor anybody who lived here. Without too much trouble, I found a great furnished sublet in Hell's Kitchen at a very reasonable price--sight, unseen. However, when I pulled up to the place in a cab, the girl's boyfriend was waiting for me to hand over the key and useful city-wise information. Everyone has something going on here in the city, and when you DO get a great apartment, you don't want to let go of it. So, people sublet so that they can still make rent while they're away and don't have to give up their apartment. Whether you're staying a week or a month, there will be someone offering exactly what you need. I would suggest the Upper West Side or Upper East Side if you have that many people. Closet space might be limited, but if you can handle living out of suitcases, it can be a cheap and comfortable alternative to a hotel. Just make sure you can get in touch with the renter (I suggest over the phone) and feel him or her out. _______________________ Kennesaw, GA: Please advise when we need dress pants and/or dresses while in London and France next month. Can we wear jeans to museums, restaurants, shows, cruises? BT Editors: While having never been to London, I have never had a problem getting into a museum in France wearing jeans. These are tourist destinations and we all know what kind of jokes everyone makes about tourists--not exactly the snappiest dressers. As far as restaurants, it will depend on the type of dining you will be doing. For example, a 3-star Michelin restaurant will most likely require men to wear jackets and not allow jeans. And if you're going on a cruise, the cruise line operator will be more than happy to answer any dress-code questions about shows, dining on board, etc. _______________________ Magnolia, TX: My daughter and I (age 62) are taking an Oceania cruise starting November 5th in Athens and ending in Rome on November 15th. We have three days extra in Italy. Should we stay in Rome for the three days or tour Rome for one day and then take a train to Venice to spend two nights before returning by train to Rome for our flight home? Which is best three days in Rome or one day in Rome and two in Venice? BT Editors: We say stick with Rome for three days--you certainly won't run out of things to do! Three days in one place will give you a chance to get to get a feel for the city as opposed to rushing up and down the Italian countryside. It's a long train ride between Rome and Venice (four and a half hours), and November in Venice tends to be dreary and rainy. Before you go, print out our Rome Snap Guide, packed with insider tips on the best tips to eat, shop, and play. _______________________ Fort Lauderdale, FL: We are going to Italy next month and will be in Florence for 5 days. We are looking for day trips via train or bus to see some of the countryside. Any suggestions? BT Editors: Lots! A stay in Florence places you in the heart of much-loved Tuscany, and by October, the region's often-overwhelming number of tourists will hopefully have dwindled. Pisa, an hour by train, can easily be seen in an afternoon; for tips on its iconic tower, consult our story, "Dream Trips: Pisa." It's almost a two-hour train ride to Siena, whose central piazza plays host to the traditional palio (horserace) each summer. Climb 500 steps to the top of its medieval bell tower, Torre de Mangia, and you'll be rewarded with postcard-perfect views of tiled rooftops and cyprus trees. For train information, visit the website of Trenitalia. The tiny hill town of Montepulciano, famous for its red wines, is accessible by train to Chiusi and then a bus or cab ride to the town center or alternatively by a two-hour bus ride. If you'd like to sample something beyond Tuscany, Bologna--a lively university town in Emilia-Romagna with a great food and art scene--is an hour-and-a-half train ride to the northeast of Florence. (Compare its central Neptune statue/fountain to the one in Florence's Piazza della Signoria.) For the latest on the arts in Bologna, read "Italy's Newest Art District is Born in Bologna." _______________________ BT Editors: Thanks for all your great questions. See you next week! _______________________