Temporary Innsanity

Congress just passed the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative, which lets travelers return to the U.S. from the Caribbean by land or sea without a passport until June 2009. American citizens flying back to the U.S. will still need a valid passport as of January 8, 2007, the original deadline. The State Department estimates that about 73 percent of Americans don't have passports, and it has had trouble keeping up with the recent spike in demand. A seven-year, $91 million expansion of the Denver Art Museum opens to the public on October 7. Designed by the World Trade Center site's master planner Daniel Libeskind, the angular, titanium-clad building was inspired by the jagged peaks of the Rockies (denverartmuseum.org, $13). A historic partnership between the Musée du Louvre in Paris and Atlanta's High Museum of Art begins October 14 when the "Kings as Collectors" exhibit opens. Over the next three years, hundreds of paintings, sculptures, and antiquities from the Louvre will be exhibited in the U.S. for the first time (high.org, $15). George Washington's Mount Vernon estate has undergone a $100 million expansion. A new museum with six galleries will exhibit his family's personal items like furniture, books, china, and clothing--many of which will be on display at Mount Vernon for the first time. Highlights of the visitors center include an exact replica of the mansion in miniature (furniture and all) and a stained-glass window depicting key events in the president's life. Both buildings are scheduled to open on October 27 (mountvernon.org, $13). Berlin's Bode Museum--which showcases ancient coins, Byzantine art, and Germany's largest collection of sculptures--will reopen on October 18 after nearly a decade of renovations. Carib Aviation has launched a new company called Dominica Air Taxi, with interisland service between Dominica and either St. Lucia or Antigua. The 50-minute flights cost $79 each way (dominicaairtaxi.com). Pacsafe has introduced a duffel bag (above) made with the patented, slash-proof, stainless-steel mesh it uses in backpacks ($230). Several Florida theme parks--Walt Disney World, SeaWorld, Busch Gardens, and Universal Orlando--formally announced policies that guarantee you'll be able to reschedule a vacation without penalty or get your money back if a hurricane threatens the resort area or your hometown. Day passes to American Airlines' private lounges are being sold at self-serve airport kiosks: $50 for the first pass, and $25 each for two additional passes. Irish carrier Aer Lingus is charging $5 per checked bag if you reserve online (or $10 at the airport) on flights within Europe scheduled to depart after January 17. At sharedbook.com, users create photo albums with templates that match their vacation--the Yosemite book, for example, includes borders in the park's Native American motif, a John Muir quote, and park maps, as well as space for text and photos. US Airways dropped its 14-day-advance-purchase shuttle fares to $100 for a round trip between Boston and New York. The airline also has a new Bill Me Later option; with a special introductory offer, you can buy tickets through November 30, 2006, and not make any payments for the first 90 days.

Tempted to try an obscure varietal, but don't want to shell out $30 for a bottle you might not like? A handful of liquor stores and bars now allow you to help yourself to samples. It works like this: You put money on a debit card (or earn points on a card by buying a bottle of wine), insert the card into a slot, and push the button above the wine you want to taste. The Enomatic system dispenses an ounce into your glass and deducts the cost from the card. Prices range from $1 to $28, with most costing $2 to $3. In Texas, where self-service is illegal, wine jukeboxes (as the Enomatics are nicknamed) are operated by bartenders. Whether you push the button yourself or someone does it for you, the advantage is the same. Because the system hermetically seals bottles after each pour, some places are able to offer as many as a hundred wines by the glass. Cheers! Nora's Wine Bar & Osteria 1031 S. Rampart Blvd., Las Vegas, 702/940-6672 Stave Wine Lounge 1149 First St., Napa, Calif., 707/259-5411 Tastings 149 First Ave. N., St. Petersburg, Fla., 727/894-2255 Union Square Wine & Spirits 140 Fourth Ave., New York City, 212/675-8100 VinoVenue 686 Mission St., San Francisco, 415/341-1930 Wine'tastic 4140 Lemmon Ave., Dallas, 214/252-9494

FIVE COOL ROOMS 'Hood: Palermo Soho, a subsection of Palermo (B.A.'s trendiest barrio) near Plaza Serrano, where there are new restaurants and boutiques on every corner. First impression: Since its debut in March 2005, Five Cool Rooms has attracted a young, international crowd. Guests hang out around the chimenea (fireplace) in the central courtyard or on the roof terrace. Polished concrete, rattan furniture, and bamboo plants give public spaces a Zen feel. The rooms: The 16 rooms are labeled small, medium, and large. Medium rooms have balconies facing the street. The two large rooms--one of which has its own hot tub--overlook a quieter rear courtyard with a hammock. Plus: In addition to all the outdoor seating areas, there's a sleek modern living room furnished with chocolate-colored faux leather couches and a big-screen TV. Guests can help themselves to free Argentine wine. Minus: If you're settling in for more than a few nights, splurge on a medium or large room. The smalls are so tiny there's no room for even a suitcase stand. Details: Honduras 4742, 011-54/11-5235-5555, fivebuenosaires.com, from $90, including breakfast. KRISTA 'Hood: Palermo Hollywood, where the TV networks, film studios, and radio stations have set up shop. Models and actors make for great people-watching. First impression: An early-1900s mansion--formerly owned by Evita's personal doctor--with high archways, stained-glass windows, and marble floors, it's kind of like your rich great-aunt's house. It opened in March. The rooms: Each of the 10 large rooms is named for a different Argentine artist. The Victoria Ocampo (one of the country's greatest writers) has lilac walls, lace curtains, and a sheer canopy on the bed. In the Benito Quinquela Martín (known for his paintings of Buenos Aires's port), wood paneling evokes the inside of a ship. Plus: Owner Cristina Marsden, born and raised in B.A., is plugged in to the local nightlife and can recommend the best bars and nightclubs. Minus: Some of the renovations appear rushed: Several rooms are sloppily painted. Details: Bonpland 1665, 011-54/11- 4771-4697, kristahotel.com.ar, from $90, including breakfast. LA OTRA ORILLA 'Hood: Palermo Viejo, the most stately section of Palermo, full of century-old homes. It's where Jorge Luis Borges, Argentina's most celebrated writer, lived. First impression: Opened in June by mother-daughter duo Cecilia Ramos Mejía and Agustina Montoreano, La Otra Orilla has a French country vibe. Floral curtains, vintage area rugs, and mismatched antiques give it a casual, comfortable feel. The rooms: Seven guest rooms are painted in vibrant colors like tomato red and forest green. Two (Azul and Blanca) share a bathroom; all but Blanca are equipped with A/C (it has a ceiling fan). The Bamboo Room features sliding glass doors that open onto a garden that blooms with bougainvillea, jasmine, and hyacinth. Plus: When the weather is nice, breakfast is served alfresco, on a terra-cotta-colored patio. Honeymooners can have breakfast in bed at no additional cost. Minus: Reservation confirmations must be made by phone or e-mail 72 hours prior to arrival. No credit cards: Only cash is accepted (upon checkout). Details: Julián Alvarez 1779, 011-54/11-4867-4070, otraorilla.com.ar, from $30, including breakfast. 248 FINISTERRA 'Hood: Las Cañitas, between Palermo and Belgrano. The up-and-coming area is home to the polo grounds and some hot restaurants. First impression: The look is urban gaucho, with butter-soft leather, dark wood, and natural cottons. Pablo Badler transformed what was his grandmother's house into an elegant hotel, with the help of his mother and sister. They launched 248 Finisterra in May, after more than a year of construction (and it still smells of fresh paint). The rooms: The 11 rooms are done in soothing creams, pale greens, and sky blues, and furnished very simply with carefully chosen antiques. Tabletop light columns and striped throw pillows add a modern edge. Pablo's mother, Celia, makes sure there are fresh flowers in each room. Plus: The second-floor deck, with lounge chairs and a hot tub, is the perfect spot to enjoy a glass of malbec. Bring one up from the wine bar on the ground floor. Minus: The hotel is fully booked until November 1 with a private party. (A big star is holed up there, but the owner won't say who it is.) Details: Baez 248, 011-54/11-4773-0901, 248finisterra.com, from $115, including breakfast. THE COCKER 'Hood: San Telmo, the oldest barrio in B.A. It's known as the birthplace of tango and famous for the Sunday-morning antiques fair in Plaza Dorrego. First impression: When it came to naming their hotel, English expat couple Ian Spink and Aidan Pass thought of their beloved three-year-old cocker spaniel, Rocco. The Cocker opened in June, and everything about it reflects the creative and fun-loving personalities of its owners. The rooms: Numbered for important dates in the owners' lives, the five rooms have double-height ceilings and French doors that lead to lovely terraces. Room 19-03 (Aidan's birthday) has a four-poster bed below a glass-walled loft bathroom. Doors lead to a private garden filled with evergreens, rosemary, and thyme. Plus: This winter (summer in Argentina), the Cocker will debut a roof terrace. Guests will sip cocktails while watching art films projected onto the neighboring building. The deck also offers panoramic views of the city. Minus: Rooms have small European-style wet rooms: There are no bathtubs, and showers aren't partitioned off from the sink and toilet areas. Details: Juan de Garay 458, 011-54/11-4362-8451, thecocker.com, from $70, including breakfast.

Thanks in part to its location near the Reno River, Bologna has long been a manufacturing hub. But these days, the city is making an effort to manufacture something of a more creative nature: modern art and design. Bologna was named a European Capital of Culture in 2000; as a result, it raised $10 million to transform a blighted neighborhood in the northwest--a 15-minute walk from the city center--into an arts hub. Up to that point, a former slaughterhouse, salt warehouse, and tobacco warehouse had stood deserted. Now, a million-square-foot area is being refashioned into a complex called Manifattura delle Arti, or Factory of the Arts. The former slaughterhouse was gutted in 2003, then turned into the Cineteca, a center for film research and restoration. It houses the Charlie Chaplin film archives; Chaplin fans can borrow DVDs of his movies from the airy, light-filled library and watch them at screening stations that are available to the public free of charge. In a connected building are two art-house theaters named after the Lumière brothers, Auguste and Louis, who held the first public movie screening in Paris in 1895. "When we opened, they ran a film about the area," says Cecilia Cenciarelli, coordinator of the archives. "They interviewed this old man who talked about seeing a pig get slaughtered. It was incredibly funny." Across the way, the salt warehouse was converted into a new home for Cassero, the city's gay and lesbian center. There's a disco and a backyard garden, where raucous parties take place on hot summer nights. "They're so much fun, and everyone goes," Cenciarelli says. Art galleries, design shops, and lounges are sprouting up all around the district. Giulia Allegri, born and raised in Bologna, didn't think twice about returning after studying in Ravenna. She opened her gallery, Agenzia 04, in the Manifattura area in 2004. "I felt like something was happening here," says the petite redhead. Allegri's success attracted new businesses like Galleria Neon, which shows contemporary artists, and Metropolis Photogallery, a shop that sells furniture as well as photography. Gallery owners and visitors now meet up for drinks at Stile Libero. Nearby, a store called Fratelli Broche stocks Italian housewares, vintage clothing, and accessories. "We all go to each other's openings, and we all know and support each other," says Allegri. Longtime friends Lenina Barducci and Maura Conti opened Zo Caffè in 2004, a couple of blocks from where Agenzia 04 stands now. "We wanted to create something that didn't exist in Bologna, a place where you can really meet people doing all sorts of interesting things," explains Barducci, a tall, skinny woman with cropped hair. The renovated warehouse is a café, late-night spot for ambient-music DJs, and art gallery. Vintage 1970s TVs serve as decoration, and the menu is written on blackboards. Young couples sit at wood tables, chatting over Prosecco and paninis. If the film center, art galleries, and shops haven't yet put the Manifattura district on the tourist map, the city's modern art museum, MAMbo (Il Museo d'Arte Moderna di Bologna) surely will. After nearly a decade of construction, it moves into a former bakery next May. Activities   Cineteca via Azzo Gardino 65, 011-39/051-219-5311   Agenzia 04 via Brugnoli 19/c, 011-39/051-649-0104   Galleria Neon via Zanardi 2/5, 011-39/051-587-7068   Metropolis Photogallery viale Pietro Pietramellara 3/a, 011-39/ 051-524-800 Shopping   Fratelli Broche via del Rondone 2/e, 011-39/349-009-3963 Nightlife   Cassero via Don Minzoni 18, 011-39/ 051-528-0391   Stile Libero via delle Lame 108 a/b, 011-39/335-562-5578   Zo Caffè via Lodovico Berti 15/b, 011-39/ 051-588-3469, Prosecco $4