Table of Contents: September 2007

August 1, 2007

2007 Scouting Report
We asked 10 people who explore for a living to reveal the places that they've recently "discovered"--in other words, the best places you've never heard of (and, frankly, neither had we). Go now, before the rest of the world catches up.
Meet the Experts
Expert's Travel Tips

Hush-hush Europe: La Cerdanya
Straddling France and Spain, the region of La Cerdanya is where Europeans go when they want peace and quiet and really good jam.
Barcelona Menu Decoder

Destination Unknown
We decided to send two travelers somewhere they knew nothing about...and we weren't telling them where until the day before they were leaving.

Buzz Worthy: Montenegro
The former Yugoslavia has one more secret up its coast: Montenegro is a newly independent country that's small in size, but big on the next-destination map.
Montenegro Slide Show

Inside Knowledge: Hotel Chains
Many Americans don't realize that there's a world of hotel chains beyond Marriott and Motel 6.

Road Trip: 10 Coolest Small Towns
A little bit hip and a little bit homey, these up-and-coming towns guarantee a fun detour on your next road trip. You'll be browsing the local real estate pages before you know it.
Real Estate Slide Show

40 Best Vacations
From a Tanzanian game reserve and untouched Incan ruins to a wealth of adventure tours, here are the Real Deals right now.

Plan Your Next Getaway
Keep reading

Trip Coach: July 31, 2007

Patricia Schultz: Hi! This is Patricia Schultz, and I greatly look forward to chatting with you today about traveling in the USA & Canada. We still have a few weeks before the back-to-school mindset takes over us (even if we haven't seen the inside of a schoolroom in a while!), so get going! Let's get started! _______________________ San Bernardino: Ok, so I'm having a snag in planning a girl's get-away for six individuals - ages range from 28 to 88 years old (youngest is my niece and oldest is my mom). Each year we plan a get-away ranging from San Diego, Napa Valley, Hawaii, Chicago, Indiana, Las Vegas. I need help planning something that everyone can equally enjoy - from the young to the old. Was thinking about Taos, New Mexico but not sure what to do there - any ideas? Please help! ! Audrey Patricia Schultz: I would suggest you park yourselves in the wonderful city of Santa Fe, New Mexico instead, where there is so much more to do for all ages and interests (and take a fun day trip to Taos for lunch and a museum stop). This summer celebrates the 10th year anniversary of the unusual Georgia O'Keefe Museum, and there is also world-class opera through August at the stunning indoor-outdoor Santa Fe Opera just a few miles outside of town. There are endless art galleries whose works often showcase the prominent Native American presence in the city and surrounding Four Corners area (with various festivals celebrating the Native American culture and arts as well) and great restaurants and cafes that remind you how the delicious Southwest regional cuisine took root here in the 1980s. And don't miss the East-Meets-West Ten Thousand Waves spa just outside of town whose spa treatments (including alfresco thermal soaks) have been drawing folks from around the world for decades. _______________________ Abingdon, Maryland: Four or five mature (40's and 50's) ladies would like to get away for a weekend. Thinking of a spa weekend, casino or maybe N.Y. Any suggestions? Patricia Schultz: You're not so far by car from Atlantic City (N.J.) where, if you go between now and September, you can enjoy the beach as well (something Vegas cannot boast)! Of course, A.C. is all about gaming, but if you stay at the new-ish Borgata Hotel and Resort, a little bit of over-the-top Vegas (the most expensive hotel/casino ever built in A.C.), there's enough to keep you busy without going near the slot machines: a gorgeous spa, an entertainment schedule for August that includes everyone from Aerosmith to Martin Short, swank restaurants (a steak or lobster dinner at The Homestead will make you feel like a high roller) as well as impressive all-you-can-eat buffets that are so much a part of the Vegas scene. The Boardwalk is like a stroll back in time (the Steel Pier! salt water taffy! bicycles built for two! ) or jump in the car for an easy and lovely day trip to Cape May New Jersey, whose historical collection of beautifuly-preserved and fancifully painted Victorian structures house B&Bs, inns, restaurants and shops. Go for lunch and rent bikes afterwards to tool around town and ride it off, or hire a horse and buggy and relive the golden days of America's first seaside resort. _______________________ Sonora, CA: This fall I will be in Quebec City, Quebec for only 2 days. What would you recommend as the best things to see? Patricia Schultz: You could just wander about for weeks and not take it all in! This handsome, walled city is one of the oldest European settlements in North America (settled by the French in 1608), and if you keep thinking you've wound up in Paris you'll be excused the sense of spatial displacement! Outdoor cafes, patisseries, chic boutiques, 19th-century homes, the winding hilly streets of Haute-Ville, French spoken everywhere, lovely folks. Take the funicular to Basse-Ville below, the old port district, and the Place Royale, the city's public market area since the 17th century. Consider staying--or at least stopping by for high tea--at the Chateau Frontenac: built in 1893 on the highest point in town, it still promises a strong dose of old-world France minus the jet-lag. _______________________ Colorado Springs, CO: We are traveling for one week to the far NW corner of WA (Lynden) on 10-6-07. What are some not to miss sights? Ideas such as San Juan Islands, Cascade Mountains and Victoria Vancouver come to mind, but we (3 of us) have never been to this part of the country. We love the outdoors, can pass on shopping. We will be flying in and out of Seattle (we think! ) unless other recommendations are made. Thank you! Patricia Schultz: Seattle is a great city, and an easy place to set off for awesome nearby destinations in every direction. Ferries from Anacortes connect you to four of the San Juan Islands (there are hundreds of them, some nothing more than large, green-covered outcroppings) on Kenmore air--they have a fleet of both fixed-leg aircraft or seaplanes that service the San Juans regularly and make for awesome flight-seeing on the way. Orcas Island is said to be the most beautiful - rolling farmland, a resident summertime pod of 60-90 orca whales (frequently seen from shore though whale-watching excursions are far more fun; Oracas, Lopez, and San Juan Islands are all great for biking, hiking, sea kayaking, excellent seafood, etc. Kenmore also flies from Seattle to the veddy British city of Victoria on Vancouver Island. Exploring the island can take you a few--or many--days, and it offers a surprisingly sophisticated gastronomic scene(the Sooke Harbour House and Restaurant) as well as hotel scene (The Wickaninnish Inn near Tofino, 200 miles north of Victoria--even popular in the winter months for those who come from all parts to hole up and pray for dramatic winter storms to roll in!)--though all varieties of options are available. And oh, that wild Northwest Pacific scenery! It's majestic. _______________________ San Antonio, TX: What should we not miss while in Quebec City and around there for a week in mid-October? Patricia Schultz: It is still autumntime in Quebec province in October, so get out of town (but only once you seen the sites/sights--it's an intriguing city--see an earlier question I just answered). Just a 50-mile drive along the shores of the St Lawrence River and northeast of Quebec is Charlevoix--an area rich with forests, farmland and rock-faced cliffs. A number of villages known as Murray Bay or La Malbaie grew up here in the Golded Age of the late 1800s and became known as the Newport of the North. You can take lovely drives to see the foliage, or enjoy many outdoor sports (hiking, canoeing, whale watching), spending the night in any of the small inns and historic hotels (you'll eat well, too!). _______________________ Arvada, CO: We are taking a trip for two weeks driving through Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and New Brunswick, then driving to Quebec City for two days and finally two days in Montreal. This will probably be the only time we will be in this part of the world. Can you suggest places and sights we absolutely shouldn't miss on this trip? Patricia Schultz: Highlights that come to mind are the 185-mile-long Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia, one of the most scenic drives in this must-visit area of Eastern Canada called the Maritime Provinces. Nova Scotia has lots of summer-- (and autumn--) time music and arts festivals, particularly inspired from their Scottish (Nova Scotia, after all, means New Scotland) and French Acadian heritage over the centuries (don't forget the Cajuns of Louisiana came from these parts, expelled from here in the 1750s). The Bay of Fundy is a must-see, particularly from the New Brunswick side where it is designated a national park (it can also be visited from Nova Scotia). There is excellent and fresh fresh fresh seafood in this area of North America--enjoy! You may even be in Shediac (New Brunswick) for the Lobster Festival! Montreal is also chock-a-block with summertime festivals--check the city's web page before you go to see what's going on--but your driving itinerary might bring you to Montreal by way of the beautiful Eastern Townships that are one hour south of Montreal or Lake Massawippi--both areas beloved by Montreal's city folks in search of bucolic respite. _______________________ Long Island, New York: Hello! We wanted to visit the Canadian Rockies and fly into Calgary and home from Vancouver. Can you suggest an itinerary that does just that? We would like to visit Banff, Lake Louise, and Jasper. What are the distances? We have a week to do the trip in. Thanks! Patricia Schultz: The perfect way to see that stunningly-endowed area of Western Canada is by train--riding through the Rockies in a glass-domed observation car along any number of itineraries from Calgary to Vancouver (and with the chance to get on and off and not deal with summertime RV traffic jams) has long been a favorite for all generations (from kids to grandparents). Rocky Mountaineer runs various routes that include many/most of the magnificent national parks in Texas-sized Alberta (with the population of Philadelphia!) and neighboring British Columbia, as does VIA Rail, the national passenger rail network - both offering overnight accommodations as part of their packages (the Rocky Mountaineer arranges for you to sleep on land so you travel during the daylight hours and don't miss any of the natural drama). Their websites explain the various options and stops along the way, whether east to west or vice versa. _______________________ New York, NY: I am looking for good travel options for an adult family (kids over 25 and adults over 60) and a senior citizen friend. A good place to relax, but with things to do that are easily accessible Patricia Schultz: Not sure from your question if you were hoping to stay close to home, or how long you would be able to stay away. But any easy drive from NYC up the scenic Hudson Valley and located in the gorgeous area of the Catskill Mountains, is one of my favorite getaways - the Mohonk Mountain House just outside of New Paltz (if you don't have a car, you can just jump on the bus from NYC and they will pick you up). Built in 1869, it is still owned by the same Smiley family, at the center of a magnificent 26,000-acre wilderness (belonging to the Smiley family and adjoined to a state park). There are 85 miles of trails, but you can do nothing more strenuous than paddle about the private lake or sign up for treatments at their brand new spa. Multiple-generation-families have been coming here for decades, happy to dress up (or not) for dinner in the character-ful 1905 dining room, explore the gardens and grounds by horse and buggy, enjoying the t.v.-free accommodations - and each other. Lots of themed weekends are planned throughout the year, with interesting classes and lecturers that fill out your country idyll. _______________________ Beulah, ND: The wife and I are thinking of visiting Sedona, AZ area around Christmas time this year. Is there any reason that this would not be a good time of the year to visit this area? Also, could you recommend some places to visit and places to stay. We are thinking of being there around a week. If you have any other suggestions we would love to hear them. Thanks for your assistance. Steve Patricia Schultz: It is a great time to visit the red-rock country of Sedona - a most special place indeed, and even more so at Christmas time. This is the desert, after all, and a nice Dec day is still in the mid-50s, tho during the Dec nights it can drop to 30-40s. It's an easy 120 mile drive from Phoenix, and day trips from Sedona can even include the Grand Canyon (minus the summertime congestion). There are lots of shops and galleries throughout the ever growing town, particularly in the Tlaquepaque Arts & Crafts Village, where a lot is going on during the holiday months. A tastefully recreated Mexican village, it is festivaely draped with Christmas lights and also has great places to eat. There are dozens of characteristic B&Bs and inns around town, topped by the awesome Enchantment Resort and Spa (10 min outside of town) if you have won the lottery. There is a ubiquitous New Age-y vibe to Sedona due to the seven or so energy vortexes that have long drawn spiritualists and would-be shamans for their healing and cleansing properties (the Center for the New Age in town offers tours and lots of material to help you understand something the local Native American tribes were onto centuries ago). _______________________ Patricia Schultz: Sorry I couldn't have answered more questions - so much to discuss, so little time! The world is grand and its possibilities endless, so get going! Enjoy the rest of your summer, and know that in the not-too-distant future, my website and blog should be up and running at www.1000BeforeYouDie.com. In the meantime, check out my new book 1000 Places To See in the USA & Canada Before You Die (Workman)--never again should you hear yourself say, "Well, we didn't know where to go this summer..." ! ! ! Happy travels! Patricia Schultz

The Antarctica One Is Really Cool

The stamp: Laos The backstory: In 1999, Cheryl Hannah of Aspen, Colo., was part of a group visiting northern Thailand. The first-person account: One day our tour guide suggested we cross the Mekong River and spend the day in Laos. He found a local ferry (i.e. a fishing boat with a bamboo roof for shade) to take our group of 16 across. As a child of the 60's, I found just crossing the Mekong River, which I had heard about almost nightly on the news from Vietnam, to be quite an experience. In this area it's a wide, deep, muddy-brown river that the local people still use as a highway for transporting themselves and their goods from Myanmar, Laos, and Thailand downriver. We were lucky enough to visit on market day, so we all enjoyed wandering past the displays of fruits, vegetables, T-shirts, hardware, plastic buckets, live chickens, dead pigs, and handcrafted goods. We got lunch from one of the market stands: rice, steamed vegetables, and pieces of pork flavored with a unique blend of spices that I've never been able to re-create. It was hot and dusty, but our guide told us not to drink the water. Since it was the exact shade of the Mekong River (just slightly less cloudy), none of us argued with him! Instead, liquid refreshment consisted of warm bottled beer or fruit-flavored soda pop. Though very few of the Laotians we met spoke English, they all smiled constantly, and sign language worked for most of the day. Our trip back across the Mekong River into Thailand seemed like time travel from the 18th to the 20th century. The stamp: Turkey The backstory: Mark Koepping of Portland, Ore., was traveling last year on vacation from Greece to Turkey when he got this stamp. The first-person account: I was on the Greek island of Kos when I thought of how cool it would be to go to Turkey. Bodrum is just a short boat ride from Kos but a world away. It's another continent--Asia Minor! Bodrum has the ruins of Maussollos, Mausoleum (aka the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus), one of the six lost wonders of the ancient world (the seventh, the Great Pyramid of Giza, is still standing). Bodrum also has a great nightlife. Many Europeans vacation there. From Bodrum, I took a bus to Ephesus, which is just outside Kusadesi. The Roman ruins of this city are spectacular! I also saw what remains of the Temple of Artemis: not much, just a column. The food has spices like nothing I have experienced before. Five times a day the mosques in this Muslim nation announce the call to prayer. The stamp: Libya The backstory: Bob Peterson of Carrollton, Tex., got this stamp while working in Libya in 1980. The first-person account: I worked in Libya for six months for Occidental Petroleum. During my stay in Libya, the U.S. embassy in Tripoli was abandoned and then was burned down (supporting the hostage taking at the U.S. embassy in Iran). It was a tense period diplomatically. We flew into Tripoli from London. The only other cities with flights to Tripoli at the time were Rome and Geneva, Switzerland. Most of Europe and the Middle East were not on good terms with Libya. The stamps in my passport were applied meticulously one by one at the immigration station at the Tripoli airport. All Arab citizens went first, followed by Europeans, followed by people from anywhere else in the world, and the last people admitted into the country were Americans. Libya has an amazing history. I saw some of the most beautiful Roman ruins imaginable. Leptis Magna was the summer resort of Cleopatra and the Roman nobility. Much of the city is still intact and untouched by tourists. I also spent time in Benghazi, where many World War II battles took place. Lots of tanks and artillery left by Rommel (the Desert Fox) remain to this day because the dry climate does not induce much rust. We as Americans don't realize how important those battles were. He who has the oil, wins the war. (Not much different today, is it?) The stamp: Syria The backstory: Jean Christiansen of Flower Mound, Tex. traveled to Syria in February 2005. The first-person account: I met my daughter and some of her friends, who were all living in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, and working at the U.S. embassy there. I flew into Damascus from Qatar and my passport was stamped at the airport. We spent a few days in Damascus at the souks, the mosques, and the shops on Straight Street--the street where Saul was allegedly converted and changed his name to Paul. We also hired a car and driver and went to Palmyra and Crac des Chevaliers. We drove right near the borders of Lebanon and Iraq, but did not attempt to cross. The stamp: Sri Lanka The backstory: Jean Christiansen went to Sri Lanka in August 2003, with her daughter and some friends. The first-person account: We flew into Colombo, where my passport was stamped, and then toured Sri Lanka for a week. We visited Sigiriya, Dambulla, Kandy, and Nuwara Eliya. We stayed in local places (not chain hotels), and had wonderful food. Our guide was great, but his name sounded like "Dummy," and we had a hard time calling him that! The stamp: Burma The backstory: Jean Christiansen has been to Myanmar (formerly Burma) many times, but this stamp is from her trip in February 2006. The first-person account: At that time I was living in Texas, but I went back to visit friends in Thailand and Myanmar. I spent several days with a friend in Yangon (Rangoon), and several days at Lake Inle, which is one of my favorite places in the world. As the sun went down, I hired a boat and took pictures of the fishmen--the famous leg rowers. The stamp: Nepal The backstory: Jean Christiansen has made several trips into Nepal. This stamp is from her trip in August 2003. The first-person account: I was traveling with my son, daughter-in-law, grandson (10 years old), and granddaughter (8). We flew into Kathmandu, where my passport was stamped. We spent several days touring sights in Kathmandu, including the Monkey Temple, the pilgrimage site Pashupatinath, a Bakhtapur, and Patan. We then drove overland to the Chitwan Jungle, where we went on safari on elephant back and saw rhinos that looked like they were armor plated. The highlight of the trip was riding the elephants bareback into the river and bathing them. We also got a bath, as they continually used their trunks to spray us. The kids still talk about it! The stamp: Brazil The backstory: Chelsea Wald of Silver Spring, Md., visited Brazil when she was a Fulbright Fellow in Chile in 2001. The first-person account: The Brazil Fulbright Commission decided to invite all the South American Fulbrighters to Brazil for a conference in the spring of 2001. But they didn't seem to realize what a hassle (not to mention expense) it would be for us to get visas! In the end, I went to the Brazilian consulate in Chile to apply for the visa, and I was granted one. The Fulbright conference was in Brasília, the capital city. From what I understand, it's a planned city that was basically hacked out of the jungle in order not to favor any of Brazil's other cities with the seat of government. The architecture there is phenomenal--everything is larger-than-life and utterly symbolic. But my biggest impression of the place was that it was empty. No one was walking down the streets (in fact, the sidewalks were falling into disrepair), the restaurants were lonely, and, in some cases, those monumental buildings were kept company only by our small group. The stamp: Bangladesh The backstory: Chelsea Wald was invited along with her husband, to join their close Bangladeshi friends from Baltimore as they visited their families in Dhaka in the fall of 2006. The first-person account: It was a once-in-a-lifetime invitation, so we dropped everything and went. But the logistics of the trip weren't easy. Besides getting many vaccinations (ouch!), we had to apply (and pay handsomely) for tourist visas. It still boggles my mind that a country that desperately wants tourists would want to put up such a barrier to tourism, but I suppose it's only fair, since we require Bangladeshis to jump through hoops to visit our country. But everything went smoothly, perhaps in part because the official at the embassy had grown up in the same middle-class neighborhood as our friend, and he could hardly believe that it was our destination. Highlights of the trip? There were so many! The greatest privilege was getting to stay in the home of our friend's family. We became close with the four children of the house and their cousins and friends, playing the Bangladeshi version of Sorry for many hours and waging dozens of thumb wars (a game we taught them, to their delight). We also visited the beach resort of Cox's Bazar, staying in the finest hotel there for the price of a Motel 6 and eating frequently in what's possibly our favorite restaurant in the world--the Angel Drop, which stands bravely but precariously on stilts over the surf and provides diners with both total privacy and an expansive view of the Bay of Bengal. Our other favorite destination was Srimangal, in the region of Sylhet, which is the heart of tea country. Tea is one of Bangladesh's largest exports, and the landscape where it's grown is magical. The tea plants are chest high and lush, and they're interspersed with shade trees that extend their branches to offer just the right amount of shade to the tea plants. Not so great are the conditions under which many of the tea pickers work--it's a hard job, and I understand that the pay is abysmal. For an outsider, however, the region looks simply idyllic. What's more, there are no tourists as far as the eye can see. The stamp: Suriname The backstory: Richard J. Pazara of Arlington, Tex., visited Suriname in 2004. The first-person account: Since it is the only country in South America to require an advance visa for Americans, Suriname is not highly visited. So it's very laid-back, and because of its history, it is a mix of cultures. I really got a sense of getting along and tolerance there. For example, the mosque and the synagogue are right next door in Paramaribo, and they don't even have a fence between them. I really enjoyed my time there. The stamp: Mozambique The backstory: Richard J. Pazara visited Mozambique in 2004. The first-person account: I flew into Maputo, spent two nights, then took an eight-hour bus ride to Pretoria, South Africa, where I rented a car to see a Durban, Swaziland, Lesotho, and Johannesburg before flying to see Victoria Falls. A visa was required, and I obtained it at the airport on arrival. Maputo is a normal developing city with a few nice hotels and lots of grungy seen-better-days areas. I spent the second day flying to Inhaca Island and back. Since I had no bags, I took the local jitney, which stops a block from the airport--you know the deal Taxis from the big hotel costs US $20 and the local transportation costs 20¢. On the return jitney ride, I jumped out 10 or so blocks from my hotel to do a little walking and happened upon a beautiful new building, which really stood out from the surrounding seediness. I quickly saw that it was a mosque, and knowing that non-Muslims are not allowed in some parts of the world, I just peered thru the fence. It was Friday and about time for the main prayer service, so mosque atendees filed past. One greeted me (in English) and invited me in, where he presented me to the imam. The imam was dour and certainly looked the part with his robes and beard. He asked me what I wanted and I thought What have I gotten into? I told him the building was quite impressive, so he asked if I wanted a tour and assigned his son, who was about 20, to show me around. The son spoke very good English and spent 15 minutes explaining the mosque's history and the recent building program, funded mainly by the Muslim community in South Africa. He asked about me and had no reaction to my being from Texas. He spent another 15 minutes showing me the school and then begged off since the prayer service was about to start. I left totally impressed and uplifted at the hospitality and lack of hostility. The stamp: Port Lockroy, British Antarctic Territory The backstory: Billy Hancock of St. Petersburg, Fla., visited Antarctica with his wife in January and February of 2005 as part of a Grand Circle Travel group. The first-person account: Getting to Antarctica is difficult, so we traveled in stages--first to Buenos Aires by plane, then flew to Ushuaia, Argentina, then across the Drake Passage by ship to the Antarctic Peninsula (600 miles from Cape Horn). We spent a week in Antarctic waters and made a total of 11 landings by boat. One of places we landed was Port Lockroy, a British research station that mainly monitors penguin colonies. The station, as a courtesy to visitors, will stamp their passports. There are no towns or commercial airports in Antarctica. Antarctica in different from any other place on the planet because of its remoteness and isolation. We enjoyed the spectacular ice formations, the wonderful wildlife--penguins, seals, and whales--and the temporary isolation from civilization.

They Learned the Hard Way

HOW MUCH TO PLAN IN ADVANCE I pretty much book everything in advance so that I can enjoy my trip without the added task of making other arrangements. Especially in Europe, where comfortable accommodations need to be booked well in advance. One exception might be train tickets. I find it is very easy to arrive at a train station, purchase my ticket at the desk, and go, without any hassles. —Anne Wood I generally have an agenda of things I need to accomplish, but I've learned that too much planning isn't that useful. Being flexible is absolutely critical—I can be a lot more efficient if I let the schedule form around the realities on the ground, rather than try to force reality into a schedule. —Geoff Watts I always book hotels for business travel, though you can catch me arriving sans reservation on vacations. —Mo Frechette I am a planner. I book my air and hotels in advance. I take planning to the extreme, sometimes booking lunch and dinner reservations in advance. This is particularly true when I am traveling for pleasure and want to make sure that we are able to dine in special places (for example, Michelin-starred restaurants) or restaurants that we know and love from prior trips. —Walter Lowry PACKING TIPS Underpack. If the angler has too many lures, he spends more time fishing in the tackle box than in the water. As a rule don't bring a 100 percent solution for something with a 10 percent likelihood. I use mesh or nylon stuff sacks to organize socks, shirts, slacks, etc. It prevents contents from shifting and getting even more wrinkled, plus you can use the stuff sacks as bolsters on an inadequate sleep surface. —Pancho Doll Absolutely underpack. Nothing is worse than being burdened with a heavy bag and having to rely on somebody else to help you out all of the time. I only bring what I can wear on my back and carry in one hand. Besides, if you don't have that perfect pair of shoes, it's an excellent excuse to buy some new ones! —Anne Wood Underpack: You can always hand wash items like socks and underwear and, if necessary, send other items, such as shirts, out to be laundered. —Walter Lowry I have a simple MS Word list of things to pack and to think about before leaving. People laugh at it, but it saves me lots of stress. I'd rather clutter paper instead of my head with everything I need to remember. I print it when I pack and scratch off things when they're stowed, and then, if I'm feeling extra productive, I'll carry it with me on the trip and add notes. If I didn't use something or needed something extra, I take a note. I'll modify the file at home and then print it again the next time I travel. —Mo Frechette WHAT TO WEAR ON THE PLANE I wear wrinkle-resistant clothing, which is comfortable to wear for hours (black yoga pants are great—never jeans!), and a sweater I can slip on easily when the temperature cools off. I usually wear flip-flops, because they are easy to get through the airport checkpoints, but I always bring warm, comfortable socks to slip on while on the plane. Sometimes I will bring my down jacket, which keeps me warm and doubles as a big fluffy pillow. I also always make sure I have a pen (it's annoying when you don't have a pen when the flight attendants hand the customs documents out), a good book, a comb and hair clip, lip balm, a toothbrush, and skin astringent to freshen up with just before landing. —Anne Wood I always wear sport jackets. You can stuff so much in them, and they still look snazzy. I bring a pair of nice warm socks (shoes come off), a sleeping mask, my iPod, eyeglasses and contacts case, lip balm, lotion, back issues of The New Yorker magazine, and anything I'm afraid of missing if the airline loses my checked luggage. I also carry an empty Nalgene bottle and fill it up at a drinking fountain after security. —Mo Frechette I never fly without my Bose noise-reducing headphones. —Claus Sendlinger I wear comfortable layers to make it easy to adjust to different temperatures, and then I bring a good book and as little else as possible! —Bruce Haxton HOW TO DEAL WITH JET LAG Make sure you change to the local time immediately. Never get tempted to go to sleep just because you would be in bed at home. You just have to tough it out! —Bruce Haxton I try to adjust my sleep cycle while in transit. And I drink lots of water—hydration is a beautiful thing, and helps a lot in combating fatigue. —Geoff Watts I have always found it best to just jump right into local time. I switch my watch to local time right away and try to stay awake until the local bedtime, and I get up in time for breakfast. Taking an evening stroll the first night wherever I am is always a nice way to ease into the new time zone. —Anne Wood I ignore jet lag completely and just carry on doing whatever I have to do in the time zone of the country I arrive in. —Henry Madden I use melatonin. The day I depart, I take 1 mg of melatonin at the bedtime of my destination's time zone, so if I am flying from L.A. to Paris and plan to go bed there at midnight, I will take the melatonin at 3 P.M. L.A. time on the day I fly out. Then I take another 1 mg dose of melatonin at bedtime when I have reached my destination. I also drink lots of water and get as much natural light as possible. —Walter Lowry Going westbound: hot sake and good sushi. Eastbound: a long walk and a Weizenbier (wheat beer). —Claus Sendlinger GETTING YOUR BEARINGS Usually, I study a map prior to arrival-and the combination of having studied a map and taking a walk makes a new neighborhood seem familiar. —Walter Lowry I like to have a drink in a local pub. —Geoff Watts I buy local papers and read the obituaries. I go for a run. I get the free weekly and see what bands are playing.— Mo Frechette I avoid taxis as much as possible, and opt to walk or take the public transit wherever I go: I see more of the neighborhoods and feel less like a tourist. Perhaps my favorite way is to visit the local farmers market. It tells you so much about a place, not only about the food and local agriculture, but also the timing of people's days. —Anne Wood The best thing to get a feel for a country is to get in touch with locals. —Claus Sendlinger HOW TO FIND NON-TOURISTY SPOTS If I am returning to a city that I have visited many times, such as Paris, I try to stay in a different neighborhood. By doing this, I can return to places that are old and familiar and also discover a new neighborhood. At other times, I will simply pick an area from a city map that is outside the tourist area and, working with a red Michelin guide, select one or more possible places for dinner in a "neighborhood" restaurant. —Walter Lowry I try to ask people I trust before I go. I don't ask for a long list, just one or two places, tops. Then I play like Alice and follow the rabbit. When I eat at a good place, I ask the people where they like to eat. And so on. —Mo Frechette In general, I try to avoid the restaurants that have the American menu, especially those with the very aggressive guy standing out front yelling at you to come in. Most of my favorite places are on side streets, or several blocks or kilometers from the nearest tourist highlights. However, recently I was desperately hungry, and caved into one of those tourist-looking places in Turkey, and had a fantastic meal. So, I always tell people simply to walk around and pick what looks good to you. Part of the magical experience of traveling is stumbling across a gem by accident, and keeping it in your own memory. You can't get that from a recommendation or a guidebook. —Anne Wood Books aren't reliable; I recommend looking for people who seem to have something in common with you (age, style, etc.) and asking if they could give you some recommendations. —Geoff Watts Never be afraid to ask locals, but also never be afraid to disbelieve them, as they will often recommend things they think you would like rather than what they like, which is always a disaster. Hotel owners tend to be very good sources of secrets, but you need to earn their trust as Brazil especially is full of little gems for closed little networks. —Henry Madden One option is to read a guidebook and then intentionally go nowhere that it suggests (this usually ensures you miss out on crowds of people). Another is to just explore, explore, explore. I love walking/cycling/driving around and taking random turns to see where I end up. —Bruce Haxton STREET FOOD Being completely and utterly open to trying anything and everything is part of the beauty of travel and learning about other cultures. The most recent delicacy I tried was goat's head in Tanzania with a Masai tribe. There's no failsafe way to gauge if the food is OK, but if food is hot and cooked in front of you it will usually be OK—busy stalls are also usually a sign of OK food. Failing that, keeping some Imodium in reserve can help you out of tricky situations! —Bruce Haxton If it isn't a matter of health but rather an ingredient I am not accustomed to eating, I have always thought it rude to not try something once. What is good enough for the locals certainly isn't going to kill you to try, and often you will be very surprised by just how delicious something is when prepared by those who know what to do with it. Some of the best local dishes I have tried, despite my initial surprise, include snails in nettle sauce, sheep brain, and lizards—yes, from head to tail! —Anne Wood Avoid seafood in the countryside unless it is locally fished. Refrigeration can be an issue. —Geoff Watts So as long as it looks like people are eating and leaving alive, I'll probably try it. —Mo Frechette TIPS FOR SOLO TRAVELERS I used to love traveling on my own and would suggest to others not to worry too much about being lonely: you will often find that local people will come and chat if you are on your own, and it can be a great way to make friends. —Bruce Haxton In a restaurant, don't isolate yourself in a booth or in a corner. Sit at the bar when possible, or at a centrally located table. Buy the local newspaper; it's a good way to start a conversation. —Pancho Doll I enjoy going out to dinner alone (with or without a book). View it as a special treat—having time to yourself and treating yourself to a nice dinner. —Walter Lowry Eating alone is fun because going for dinner is often a special occasion, especially outside of big cities, so there is a lot of awkwardness and etiquette, and that makes for very amusing people-watching. Instead of feeling self-conscious, I enjoy observing the behavior of those around me without the interruption of having to talk to someone else. —Henry Madden Afterward, I take an evening stroll, if it feels safe to walk alone outside. I remember one evening on my own when it was my only night in Barcelona. I didn't want to go out on the town by myself, so I paid a taxi driver to just drive me around and show me Barcelona at night-just for an half hour. It actually didn't cost that much, and I really enjoyed seeing all the people dressed up for their night on the town walking about, and hearing the sounds of the city alive at night. —Anne Wood RECORDING YOUR TRIP I use my digital camera to record new products—or new product ideas. I also have a notebook with me at all times, in which I record all sorts of things in chronological order. When traveling on business, I not only take notes about products, vendors, etc., but I also staple business cards onto pages in the notebook. Months later, when I need information, I know exactly where to find it. —Walter Lowry I always take a digital camera with me. Digital is wonderful, because you don't have to worry about film going through the X-ray machines, and you don't have to spend a lot of money on terrible shots. When I return, I can sort through my images, e-mail them to friends, crop them, or even order an album of photos online. —Anne Wood I record my trips in my mind. I don't even take many photos, because I don't like the immediate barrier this can put up between me and locals. —Bruce Haxton KEEPING IN TOUCH Being accessible 24/7 for my 8-year-old daughter is very important to me, so I take advantage of modern advances in telephone technology while on the road. With a GSM quad-band, PDA-phone, I can travel to Europe without needing a new phone number. Plus, it allows me to take pictures or even short videos and e-mail them to friends and family so they know I am still alive. Text messaging is a quick and easy way to connect with people I am rendezvousing with abroad. I get a lot of the same benefits of carrying a laptop when I take a PDA, without having to actually carry my laptop. —Anne Wood I rely heavily on e-mail. I have a mobile phone with me at all times in case my business or my family needs to reach me urgently. And I use a landline, accessing it with a telephone credit card that bills to one of my numbers, which saves me a fortune as compared to using a mobile phone internationally. —Walter Lowry I primarily use a cell phone. I hit Wi-Fi once every two or three days to e-mail, and I text my current itinerary to a couple of contacts, so my general whereabouts are known. —Pancho Doll Postcards. They're really cheap! —Mo Frechette TOURIST ETIQUETTE I never wear shorts and sneakers when I travel. I like to fit in (as much as possible) and nothing sticks out more than a white guy in shorts and bright shoes. Don't make assumptions-ask someone if you are uncertain what to do. Realize that you are on someone else's turf, and always be humble. Most of all, be patient: Other cultures operate on a different time frame then we are used to in the States, and things take longer to get done...just expect and accept that, and don't get stressed or be rude about service. —Geoff Watts If I am going to an area I know has a certain sensitivity to certain clothing, I will respect that. I'll bring a scarf to Turkey if I want to go into the Blue Mosque (or wear their loaner scarf), because I'm a guest. However, no matter where I go, I'm still me, so I bring what I would normally wear, except possibly more wrinkle-resistant fabrics. And then I always try to pick up some common phrases in the local language, such as hello and good-bye, please and thank you. I attempt to speak as much of the local tongue as possible, even if I make an idiot out of myself in the process. Any effort is better than none. —Anne Wood I never overtip. If foreigners tip too much, it breeds a lack of respect among locals and tourists. For example, in an area where two pesos should be a good tip, if some tourist gives 50 pesos, the local will start to think this is normal and will get angry and pushy with other tourists when they don't do the same. This irritates the tourist, and you can have a spiral of disrespect. —Henry Madden I'm loud. So are most Americans, relative to the volume in other countries. Lower your voice. —Pancho Doll DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT... A little flashlight in case the electricity goes out. We forget how much of the world still doesn't have reliable electricity. Also bring a universal power adapter. —Geoff Watts If I'm traveling to meet someone, I bring pictures of my business and home area to show what they are like. Gifts for unexpected occasions are nice, too. —Mo Frechette Purell liquid sanitizer and wipes so that I can "wash" my hands wherever I may be and can wipe down the telephone, TV remote control, etc. in hotel rooms. —Walter Lowry