Ken Burns and Dayton Duncan on National Parks

By Josh Dean
June 8, 2009
0907_natparksadvice
2008 Al Golub/Golub Photography
The filmmakers behind the PBS special, "The National Parks: America's Best Idea," share some favorites.

For his new PBS special, The National Parks: America's Best Idea (airing in September), Ken Burns filmed in 53 of the 58 national parks in the U.S. The idea actually came from Burns's co-executive producer and best friend, Dayton Duncan, who has been to all of the parks. The filmmakers share some favorites.

Denali, Alaska
"I can't describe the power of taking the 90-mile dirt road to the center of the park," says Burns. "You are fully encased in nature—bears, elk, Dall sheep. It's what the continent looked like before humans."

Isle Royale, Mich.
Reachable by boat or plane, in the corner of Lake Superior, "it's the biggest island on the biggest lake in the world," says Duncan. "On Isle Royale is another lake, Siskiwit. You hike to it and take a canoe to an island on it, called Ryan Island. Then you're standing on the biggest island on the biggest lake on the biggest island on the biggest lake in the world."

Glacier, Mont.
"We always stay at the Many Glacier Hotel," Duncan says. And he never skips Going-to-the-Sun Road, "the most beautiful road in America."

Yellowstone, Wyo.
Avoid the crowds. "Go in winter," says Burns. "You round a corner and encounter bison covered in snow that look like they've been there 20,000 years. It alters you."

The National Park of American Samoa
The highlight for Duncan is on the sparsely populated island Ofu, reached by prop plane from Pago Pago. "Hike over to pristine Ofu Beach, where the snorkeling is unbelievable, and you'll very likely have it to yourself."

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National Parks (Minus the Crowds)

OLYMPIC AND MOUNT RAINIERBubbling hot springs, massive glaciers, and moody beaches you'll have all to yourself—just a sampling of the natural wonders worth soaking up in two parks within a few hours of Seattle. DAY 1This drive actually begins on a boat: the 35-minute-long Bainbridge Island Ferry, which carries you from Seattle city center across Puget Sound. Connect with Route 101 and head west along Olympic National Park's northern edge. The park's gateway, in Port Angeles, Wash., feeds into Hurricane Ridge Road, ascending more than 5,200 feet through cedar, maple, and pine forests before dead-ending at the ridgeline. It's an hour's drive back on 101 to Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort, where 32 TV-free cabins huddle around three spring-fed soaking pools that hold steady at 99, 101, and 104 degrees (visitsolduc.com, from $147). DAY 2Another name for Route 101 is the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway Loop; past Forks, it connects with Upper Hoh Road, an 18-mile stretch of road-trip heaven that traces the silvery Hoh River. The 17-mile-long Hoh River Trail gently traverses the flat valley before leading to Mount Olympus's Blue Glacier. Watch for elk and spotted owls hiding out amid 30-story-tall firs. Just 90 minutes away, the Adirondack-style Lake Quinault Lodge, built in 1926, awaits (visitlakequinault.com, from $130). DAY 3As Route 101 heads south, it hugs the Pacific shoreline; empty beaches peek through gaps in the coastal forest. The easiest to access is Kalaloch Beach, home to plump sunning sea lions and Kalaloch Lodge, with an ocean-view restaurant serving locally caught grilled king salmon (visitkalaloch.com, salmon $24). About four hours to the southeast is the entrance to Mount Rainier National Park, where 147 miles of paved roads take in the park's almost 14,500-foot namesake peak. In July, Paradise meadow, the preferred launching pad for hikers, is blanketed in wildflowers. The 121-room Paradise Inn, which recently completed a $22.5 million renovation, has an expansive dining room with original decorative woodwork and some of the best vantage points (nps.gov/mora, from $104). DAY 4Route 410 cuts through Rainier's eastern border and climbs above the tree line at Chinook Pass—open from May to November. Even then, many visitors don't know to go there, so the views of Rainier's reflection in Tipsoo Lake could be all yours. Stick Around Only two hours north of Seattle lies yet another national park, the rugged North Cascades, where the 12 floating cabins at Ross Lake Resort are accessible only by foot or boat (rosslakeresort.com, from $128). UTAH CANYON COUNTRYFrom Las Vegas, it's a short drive to these four parks with strikingly diverse landscapes. DAY 1Interstate 15 quickly leaves Vegas shrinking in the rearview and drops you in Zion National Park three hours later. Tourists line up for bus rides on the six-mile Zion Canyon Scenic Drive (cars aren't allowed on the main road in summer), but independent-minded travelers head to little-known Kolob Terrace Road: The hourlong drive cuts across the park's center to Lava Point, which, at 7,600 feet in elevation, allows a soaring view of the canyons. Spend the evening on the private porch of a cabin at Zion Lodge(zionlodge.com, from $159). DAY 2It's a quick drive north to Bryce Canyon, off U.S. 89. Take your time and do a two-hour horseback ride into the canyon (canyonrides.com, $50); then set aside the afternoon to drive to the outdoor-sports mecca of Moab, Utah, sandwiched between Arches and Canyonlands parks. The pueblo-style Gonzo Inn has bike storage, an espresso bar, and a hot tub (gonzoinn.com, from $159). DAY 3A day's time is enough to loop around all of the paved roads in Arches National Park and take in the most important sights, like Delicate Arch (the one on Utah license plates). But to find the park's true beauty, put boots to the ground and wander the narrow Technicolor maze ofFiery Furnace. There are no proper trails here, so hikers can only enter with a permit or on a ranger-led, three-hour walk (435/719-2299, walk $10). DAY 4Canyonlands may be the country's least drivable national park; much of it is inaccessible to cars. The broadest perspective by road lies at Island in the Sky mesa, 32 miles from Moab, which peers 1,000 feet down into the red canyons. Reach the plateau's edge via the mile-long Grand View Point Trail. Stick Around The usual rafting trip on the Green and Colorado rivers from Moab to Lake Powell takes five days, but you can get the same thrills in just two days on a motorized-raft trip with Western River Expeditions (westernriver.com, from $645). SHENANDOAH AND GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINSWinding between these two parks in Virginia and Tennessee is the Blue Ridge Parkway, a bucolic 496-mile route with over 200 misty, megapixel-worthy overlooks—forcing some difficult decisions. DAY 1A 90-minute drive from D.C. on Interstate 66 through Virginia horse country, the 105-mile-long Skyline Drive meanders along the spine of the Blue Ridge Mountains, with the broad Shenandoah Valley unfolding to the west. Paralleling the road for much of the way—and crossing it many times—is the Appalachian Trail; from the side of the road, utterly fearless Virginia white-tailed deer sniff at passing cars. Near Waynesboro, Skyline Drive turns into the Blue Ridge Parkway, where it stretches for hours and passes overlooks with memorable names (Raven's Roost, Peaks of Otter), before reaching a turnoff for surprisingly cosmopolitan Roanoke. The recently renovated 1882 Hotel Roanokehas history behind it: The hotel's bar was once a World War II officers' club, and the ballroom hosted a cattle auction in the '60s. Today, in-room spa services are more typical (hotelroanoke.com, from $119). DAY 2As you drive farther into the heart of Appalachia, the traffic thins and the valleys plunge deeper. The Blue Ridge Music Center, with its Saturday evening outdoor concerts and weekday-afternoon banjo-picking sessions, is a welcome sign of civilization near the North Carolina line. From here, a curving 100-mile drive leads to 87-acre Chetola Resort, North Carolina's only Orvis-endorsed fly-fishing lodge. Yoga, horseshoes, and canoes await those with little interest in hooking a trout (chetola.com, from $145). DAY 3It's easy to see how the Blue Ridge earned its name—layers of peaks really do tint blue in the distance. In downtown Asheville, N.C., 87 miles west of the resort, Southern classics (cornmeal-crusted catfish) are made with ingredients from local farms at the Early Girl Eatery(earlygirleatery.com, lunch from $6.50). After lunch, it's on to Gatlinburg, Tenn., where the Bearskin Lodge's lazy river mimics the nearby Little Pigeon River (thebearskinlodge.com, from $80). To experience the full sweep of the Great Smoky Mountains, take Newfound Gap Road up 6,643-foot Clingmans Dome, the park's tallest peak, where you can see more than 100 miles out on clear days. DAY 4En route back to D.C., take in the crystalline formations of Skyline Caverns in Front Royal, Va. And get a sweeping final view of the Shenandoah Valley on a Blue Ridge Hot Air Balloonstour (rideair.com, $200). Stick Around It's almost a sin not to spend a couple of extra days in Gatlinburg, on the edge of the national park, and explore the Great Smoky Mountains. The options are limitless, from hiking and biking to rock climbing—but the white-water rafting trumps them all, with no fewer than five world-class rivers in the area. Get a taste through a half-day trip on the 24 Class III and IV rapids of the Big Pigeon River (wildwaterrafting.com, from $39). COASTAL MAINE AND ACADIAA drive from Boston up to New England's only national park takes you through lost-in-time fishing villages and cinematic coastal tableaux. DAY 1About 20 miles north of Boston, U.S. 1 curves to meet the Atlantic Ocean, teasing you with glimpses of saltwater marshes and pristine beaches as you make your way to Kennebunkport, Maine, a place so tidy it feels like a movie set. Settle in among the grand mansions on Ocean Avenue at the 10-room waterfront Green Heron Inn. It's worth the stay just for the grilled banana bread with lemon curd and fresh berries for breakfast (greenheroninn.com, from $140). DAY 2It's 200 miles to Bar Harbor on Mount Desert Island, and Acadia's northeastern entrance. Make an afternoon tour around the park's 27-mile loop road, which ricochets between lakes, forests, pint-size mountains, and the jagged shoreline. At the century-old Balance Rock Inn, a converted summer home on the water, the innkeeper, Michael, will point you toward a local lobster pound, where fresh lobsters are steamed and served, picnic-style, on the spot (balancerockinn.com, from $125). DAY 3From October to early March, the sunrise hits 1,530-foot Cadillac Mountain before anywhere else in the continental U.S., so it's worth the three-and-a-half-mile predawn drive to its summit. That leaves the rest of the morning open for exploring the park's 45 miles of carriage roads—on a bike (acadiabike.com, rentals from $20) or in a horse-drawn carriage (Carriages of Acadia, 877/276-3622, from $18). In the afternoon, get a whale's perspective of Acadia on a two-hour ranger-led cruise of Frenchman Bay on a 151-foot-long schooner (book at the park's visitors center, 207/288-4585, $32). DAY 4Taking the quick route back to Boston doesn't mean bypassing the sights and tastes of New England. Interstate 295 cuts through Portland, Maine's largest city, where an endless string of fishing boats unload their catches at the Harbor Fish Marketon the ancient Custom House Wharf, to be shipped around the world or sold in the retail store alongside hundreds of lobsters swimming in massive saltwater tanks (harborfish.com/market). Stick Around Acadia extends six miles off the coast to tiny Isle au Haut, home to about 50 residents and accessible by mail boat. A stay at four-room Inn at Isle au Haut is a worthy off-the-grid splurge (innatisleauhaut.com, from $300 with meals).

Ask Trip Coach: Walt Disney World

USAC_USA_FL_Orlando_28.553154_-81.364438I want my kids to get the most out of their visit—and I want the most out of my money. So what's the perfect age for our first Disney trip? To an infant, a trip to Target is as exciting as riding on It's a Small World. That is to say, some kids are just too young to fully appreciate the Disney experience. Even toddlers are amazed by simpler things—a petting zoo, the county fair, a bug on a stick. Go when your kids will be capable of walking (and walking and walking); when they understand that the payoff for a 75-minute line just might be worth it; when they won't be freaked out by enormous cartoon characters who have come to life and want to give them hugs; and, perhaps most important, when they'll remember both the trip and what wonderful parents you were for taking them there. Cut to the chase: The perfect age for the trip is 8. Should we go with a package or book all the components of our trip separately? Unfortunately, the only way to figure out whether a "deal" is a deal is to research what each component would cost separately, tally up the total, and compare that with the package price. A few tips: 1) There are no freebies. Promotions claiming to include "free" airfare, meals, or admissions are deceptively alluring. Remember that what matters is the package's overall cost. 2) Many packages are good values compared to paying à la carte—but only if you're actually interested in everything in the package. Chances are you won't want admission tickets on your arrival and departure days, for example, and you may be ready for a day off from the parks in the middle of your trip. But many packages automatically include the maximum number of passes for a trip's duration. 3) Disney's website is, well, difficult—not least because it pushes extras and never lays out all the options and details you need to make an informed decision (actual prices, anyone?). Calling a Disney agent is better (407/939-6244). What sort of tickets should we get? One-day or multiday? Park Hopper or one park only? People 10 and up pay $75 for a one-day pass, but the average daily cost goes down sharply on multiday tickets. A seven-day pass, for example, averages out to $32 a day. There are many add-ons, too, including the popular Park Hopper feature, which lets you visit more than one park in a day. The feature tacks a flat $50 onto an adult multiday ticket, so ask yourself if you really have it in you to do that much in one day. Finally, don't wait until you get to Disney to decide on a pass. Buy in advance, either as part of your vacation package or through a discounter like Undercover Tourist (800/846-1302, undercovertourist.com), which can save you several dollars per day. Should we stay inside the park or outside? Disney has made it hard to argue for staying outside the park, even though it's way cheaper. Among other perks, Disney hotel guests enjoy extra hours in the parks and complimentary airport transfers via the Magical Express bus. As for where to stay inside Disney, ease is as much a factor as price. We like the Contemporary Resort (the only hotel within walking distance of the Magic Kingdom); Fort Wilderness Resort (the faux-rustic cabins fit six comfortably); and the All-Star Movies Resort (rooms are small but cheap, from $82). If Disney's value resorts are booked, the only other options on-site may run $300 a night or more. Outside the park, you'll find tons of hotels at a quarter of that rate—and there are always house rentals. While three-bedroom units at vacation rental site vrbo.com go for about $150 a night, the equivalent inside Disney would easily cost $700. Are the meal plans worth it? Basically, they're only worth it if you eat a lot (the portions tend to be hefty) and if you were going to have the bulk of your meals in the parks anyway. Note that the pricier plans include sit-down meals that'll take up a lot of time—time that might be better spent riding rides or enjoying laser shows. Better to stick with the two most basic plans (Quick-Service or the standard Dining plan, which cost $30 to $40 per day per adult and about $10 per day per kid). Or just forget the meal plan and do the following: 1) Get a fridge in your hotel room. Disney charges $10 a day at some properties, but it's worth it. 2) Have groceries delivered ahead of time from gardengrocer.com (866/855-4350). 3) Have breakfast in your room every morning. 4) Bring snacks and a picnic lunch like everybody else. Disney allows small coolers, but no glass, in the parks. Freeze juice boxes ahead of time so they'll still be cold for lunch; they'll also keep sandwiches cool and fruit fresh. 5) Figure on buying some hot dogs and mouse-ear-shaped ice cream here and there, and expect to pay inflated, ballpark-level prices. Do we need a stroller? Should we bring one or rent one? Yes, you need a stroller. Heck, a lot of adults wish they could have someone wheeling their tired bones around. Bring your own stroller, preferably a sturdy umbrella type that folds up easily and quickly. Disney's strollers can't be taken outside the park gates, and chances are good that you're going to wish you had one in the parking lots or at the hotel or airport. And Disney's rentals are pricey: $15 a day for a single or $31 for a double, with a small discount ($2 to $4 off) for multiday use. How do we pack in all of the things we want to see and do? You don't. You can get up early, rush around, and strategize to beat the crowds all you want, but remember: You're on vacation. Relax. And assume that you'll be back. SUPRISINGLY FREE STUFF Make a race car Outside the Lego Imagination Center in Downtown Disney is a 3,000-square-foot area with bins and bins of Legos. Kids can build whatever they want—like race cars that speed along a sloping track. Huge Lego sculptures, including a dinosaur, a robot, and a dragon emerging from a lake, are the work of professionals. Learn to use the force At Hollywood Studios, there's a stage that several times a day hosts a Jedi Training Academy, in which two dozen or so kids are picked to learn the Jedi arts from a full-fledged master. It's worth showing up early to make sure your child gets picked. Gather 'round the campfire Be sure to catch the nightly sing-along and outdoor movies at Fort Wilderness Resort. Bring marshmallows for toasting or purchase a s'mores kit at the nearby Meadow Trading Post. Captain the monorail Before boarding, ask a cast member (a.k.a. a Disney employee) if your child can ride with the driver. Four people are allowed per trip. Walk right in Throughout 2009, get in free on your birthday. Register in advance at disneyparks.com and bring ID. RESOURCES Our favorite Disney guidebook is The Unofficial Guide to Walt Disney World 2009 (Wiley, $20). The 850-page tome is loaded with practical advice and info you won't find anywhere else, plus quotes from real Disney visitors who weigh in with their opinions and tips. The following independent websites are also obsessively detailed and helpful: wdwinfo.com, mousesavers.com, allears.net, themeparkinsider.com, and wdwplanner.com. PRINCESS TIME! Get up close and personal with your kids' heroes at "character meals" around the parks. What you pay varies based on whom you dine with, and when. (Starting prices for all characters based on kids 10 and up.) • Goofy $14, breakfast at Vero Beach Resort • Mickey Mouse $19, breakfast at Animal Kingdom • Jasmine $29, breakfast at Epcot Norway Pavilion • Ariel $31, lunch at Epcot Norway Pavilion • Cinderella $32, dinner at Grand Floridian Resort & Spa MORE TIPS Especially sunny day? Go to Animal Kingdom, which was designed to have more shade than any other park. Psst! There's a black market for rental strollers from families leaving early. Don't pay more than $5. Buy tickets through AAA and you can park right by the front gate in a AAA Diamond Lot.