20 Secret Bargains of Maui for Under $20

By Matthew Link
June 4, 2005
Equipped with the right addresses, the frugal traveler can both enjoy -- and afford -- the top attractions of this increasingly popular Hawaiian island

As a former resident of Hawaii, I enjoyed my leisure hours on Maui for not a penny more than I spent on Oahu, Kauai, or the Big Island. The hard-won knowledge of those idyllic times is set forth below in 20 bite-size capsules of island advice based on that experience.

1. MAUI'S ART CAPITAL

The old whaling streets of Lahaina are now filled with outstanding art galleries (selling everything from tacky dolphin sculptures to works by Chagall). Head here for Friday Art Nights (808/667-9175), when over a dozen galleries open their doors for artist meet-and-greets, with free pupus (hors d'oeuvres) and wine.

2. WHALE WATCHING ON DRY LAND

Why shell out big bucks for a whale-watching cruise when the huge mammals nearly park themselves right along the island's shallow shores? A good spot to see them is McGregor Point at mile marker 9 on Highway 30, just south of the Lahaina Tunnel. From roughly December to April you'll spot plenty of these migrating creatures along Maui's western coast. Also head to the free Whalers Village Museum in Lahaina to explore the island's whaling past through artifacts made from ivory and bone, nineteenth-century scrimshaw, photo murals, and displays, like the re-creation of part of a whaling ship (2435 Ka'anapali Pkwy., 808/661-5992, whalersvillage.com).

3. SUN YOUR TROPICAL BUNS

One of the most social spots on the island is Little Beach at Makena, just north of the better-known, 3,300-foot-long Big Beach (where there's free parking). The small strip of sand attracts nudists, Boogie boarders, and residents who chat the day away in this lovely, undeveloped, free-of-charge hideaway.

4. DRINK UP

Seems like everyone and their mother has a winery nowadays, but the Tedeschi Vineyards on 20,000 acres of Maui's Upcountry (near Ulupalakua) has been pumping out the hooch since 1974, and its history stretches back to the legendarily wild parties held here by King Kalakaua (aka the Merrie Monarch). Free daily tastings of pineapple, passion fruit, and grape wines happen in the 1874 King's Cottage. Info: 808/878-6058, mauiwine.com.

5. OUTDOOR SHOPPING AND SWAPPING

The Maui Swap Meet blossoms every Saturday from seven in the morning until noon, with island items like aloha shirts, fresh taro, fruit breads, tropical flowers, and more -- all for an entrance fee of only 50 cents. Located on South Pu'unene Avenue, next to the Kahului Post Office. For more fresh Maui produce, check out the free Ohana Farmers Market under the monkeypod trees at the Kahului Shopping Center every Wednesday morning.

6. FREE HULA AND MORE

In the Tiki Courtyard of the spiffy Ka'anapali Beach Hotel, you don't need to be a guest to enjoy the nightly, complimentary Hawaiian music from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m., and the hula show from 6:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. For the hotel's Aloha Friday, you'll find local crafters making their wares in the lobby and courtyard between 9 a.m. and noon, and at 11 a.m. on Fridays the staff gets into the swing of things by performing songs and hula as well, all open to the public and offered at no charge.

7. THE UNEXPLORED SOUTHERN COAST

Your rental car company will probably kill you, but many travelers take the dirt road along Maui's arid, unpopulated southern coast to complete the island loop from Hana. Along this dramatic, windswept stretch of highway, stop by the Kaupo General Store (808/248-8054) in the tiny village of Kaupo. Built in 1925, the wooden store is full of antiques (including a huge camera collection), and the old refrigerators are help-yourself. Sit on the porch and while away an hour or two in the perfect silence of this quiet coastline.

8. SPIRITUAL HAWAII

Heiau are ancient Hawaiian temples made of stones, and Maui is chock-full of them. Respectful visits can be made to the remains of Pi'ila-nihale Heiau, thought to be one of the largest in the state with 50-foot-tall walls, found at the Kahanu Garden near Hana (808/248-8912, $10 entrance), and near Wailuku you can visit for free the scenic Haleki'i and Pihanakalani Heiau, which offer commanding views of the island.

9. MADE-IN-MAUI MUSEUMS

Most people don't come to the island for museums, and that's a shame, since the 1912 Wo Hing Museum (808/661-3262) on Lahaina's Front Street gives a glimpse of the island's Chinese past and early Thomas Edison films of Hawaii, all for $1. In Wailuku, the 1833 Bailey House Museum (2375-A Main St., 808/244-3326) is a restored missionary family's home with Hawaiian quilts, paintings, and furnishings, as well as a "Hawaiian Room" filled with pre-European contact artifacts ($5 admission).

10. C'MON, SUGAR!

Due to high labor costs and the worldwide market, Hawaii's days as a major sugar player are long over, but you can relive the glory days at the Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum (3957 Hansen Rd., at Pu'unene Ave., 808/871-8058, sugarmuseum.com). Five dollars gets you into the museum (which is the century-old house of the former superintendent of the state's largest sugar factory) to learn how sugar is grown and how the founders acquired land from the Kingdom of Hawaii.

11. VIETNAM MEETS MAUI

When asked for a good place to eat, nearly every resident of Maui will automatically point you to A Saigon Cafe in Wailuku. Deliciously absent of tourists (and even lacking a sign), this no-frills diner is always packed to the gills with hungry islanders scarfing down beef noodle soup (for $6.95), chicken and vegetable clay pots (for $7.95), and other low-cost Asian yummies in Jennifer Nguyen's family-style eatery (1792 Main St., Wailuku, 808/243-9560).

12. SET THE NIGHT TO MUSIC

Think there's nothing to do in Maui after the sun goes down and your tanning is done? Think again: Maui Brews in Lahaina is a boisterous bistro and nightclub with resident DJs, live bands, lanai, pool tables, video games, 16 beers on tap, and $1.50 non-premium drinks and brews daily from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. (900 Front St., Lahaina, 808/667-7794).

13. YOU'RE AN ANIMAL

Located in Kula, in the island's Upcountry, Zoo Maui (formerly the Keiki Petting Zoo) is a nonprofit "interactive zoo for all ages" and home to over 150 critters including a giraffe, Hawaiian hawks, Hawaiian owls, island feral pigs and goats, and giant tortoises. For $5 you can commune with this host of animals (808/878-2189, zoomaui.com; by appointment only on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday; general admission Saturday). (Editor's note: Zoo Maui has closed.)

14. 'IAO VALLEY HIGHLIGHTS

The sacred 'Iao Valley -- its sheer green walls decorated with long, thin waterfalls -- is one of the most awe-inspiring sights on Maui. On the road up to it from Wailuku, be sure to stop at the Tropical Gardens of Maui (200 'Iao Valley Rd., 808/244-3085, tropicalgardensofmaui.com; open weekdays), where for $3 you can explore four acres of tropical plants, koi ponds, streams, and taro patches. Further into the valley, check out the nonprofit Hawaii Nature Center (875 'Iao Valley Rd., 808/244-6500, hawaiinaturecenter.org). A $6 admission fee lets you delve into their interactive science museum, which explains how Hawaii's plants, animals, and birds made it to the islands.

15. CHOO-CHOO IN PARADISE

Although admittedly touristy, the Sugar Cane Train from Lahaina to Ka'anapali is a pretty fun outing, along six miles of incredible scenery at the foot of the West Maui Mountains. The conductor even sings! A round trip costs $15.95. Information: 800/499-2307, sugarcanetrain.com

16. THE ISLAND IS A STAGE

The historic 'Iao Theater (circa 1928), in the old section of Wailuku, hosts fun theater events for enthusiastic local crowds, like splashy Broadway-style revues and musicals. Best of all are the non-Broadway prices: Tickets for most shows start at only $18 (68 N. Market St., Wailuku, 808/242-6969, mauionstage.com).

17. DELVE INTO THE DEPTHS

More than just an aquarium, the three-acre Maui Ocean Center at Ma'alaea Harbor is also a cultural experience, with an exhibit called "Hawaiians & the Sea," which details the interwoven bonds the Polynesians have with the Pacific-authentic hooks, traps, and nets are on display. Tour guides even refer to the sea creatures by their Hawaiian names. There are also shark, stingray, and turtle tanks for your perusal. Tickets are $19 (808/270-7000, mauioceancenter.com).

18. COOPERATING ARTISTS

Maui has attracted artists for generations, and a celebration of local works is found at Maui Crafts Guild in the surfer town of Paia. Glass beads, kimonos, baskets, jewelry, pottery, ceramics, wall hangings, handmade paper, and more overflow from this artists cooperative (housed in a plantation-style building), with many items going for less than $20 (43 Hana Hwy., 808/579-9697, mauicraftsguild.com).

19. PICNIC WITH RED SAND BETWEEN YOUR TOES

Scads of tourists make the twisting, stomach-churning drive on the spectacularly green cliffside road to Hana, on the easternmost point of the island. But many don't spend much time in this tranquil village, which is a shame. Go to the Hasegawa General Store in downtown Hana (Hwy. 360, 808/248-7079), the town's social center since 1910 and managed by four generations of Hasegawas. Load up on local treats like Spam musubi, Hana-blend coffee, local organic dried fruits and macadamia nuts, and fresh mangoes and pineapples (in season), all for decent prices. Then carefully carry it all down the steep trail to Hana's Red Sand Beach, which is a small crescent of sand in a collapsed volcanic dome. The snorkeling's to die for, and you'll often have the entire place to yourself.

20. COWABUNGA!

You can't come to Maui and not get into the ocean, and the best way to do this is to rent a surfboard for only $20 a day from Big Kahuna Adventures in Kihei. They can also arrange lessons and tell you where the good locations are for surfing beginners (1993 S. Kihei Rd., across from Kihei Cove, 808/875-6395).

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Family Hawaii

You'd do best to pass up the treasure hunts, pirate parties, and other children's activities of the top hotels, for they come at a pretty price: the cost of two adjoining rooms. For smart, budget-conscious families traveling to Hawaii, the condo is the key. In Hawaii, one-bedroom condos -- and there are thousands of them -- are usually large, always equipped for cooking, and most often refreshingly priced, sometimes costing considerably less than $80 a night if you stay for a week, far below what you'd pay in a hotel. Apart from price and space (a cramped hotel room can seem smaller every day with active children), the specific advantages include a full kitchen (saving you dollars on meals), laundry facilities (generally right inside your unit), and extensive free recreational opportunities (swimming pool, tennis courts, picnic tables, barbecue areas) on the property. Most units have a pullout sofa bed in the living room so you won't have to pay for an extra bedroom for the kids. I've scoured my beloved island-state for large, inexpensive, comfortable condos capable of accommodating an entire family cheaply, and as close to a beach as possible. Here are some island-by-island picks: Big Island of Hawaii On that huge sea -- surrounded land harboring Volcanoes National Park, black lava beaches, and actual Hawaiian cowboys, the best selection of affordable one- and two-bedroom condominium units is undoubtedly that of Hawaii Resort Management (P.O. Box 39, Kailua-Kona, HI 96745; 800/622-5348 or 808/329-9393; konahawaii.com). It currently offers more than 200 condominium units in its inventory, with daily, weekly, and monthly rates starting as low as $70 a night for a one-bedroom that sleeps four, just a short walk to the beach and complete with air-conditioning, full kitchen, pool, and ocean views. It also offers two-bedroom/two-bath units right on the beach, starting at $95 a night. An alternate source? Knutson and Associates (75-6082 Aln Dr., Suite #8, Kailua-Kona, HI 96740; 800/800-6202 or 808/329-6311; konahawaiirentals.com) has several budget condominiums in their rental pool, starting at $525 a week for a one-bedroom in an oceanfront complex with pool, washer and dryer, and ceiling fans (no air-conditioning). Or seek out Sun Quest Vacations (800/367-5168 or 808/329-6488, sunquest-hawai.com) for its budget condos starting at $80 a night or $480 a week for one-bedroom units. Maui On ever-more-popular Maui, Bello's Maui Beach Homes (P.O. Box 1776, Kihei, HI 96753; 800/541-3060; bellomaui.com) represents seven different condominium complexes in Kihei, most with pools, ocean views, washer/dryers, and air-conditioning, which start as low as $55 in the off-season ($70 in the high season) for a one-bedroom garden unit within walking distance of the beach. In the West Maui area, contact Maui Beach Front Rentals (256 Papalaua St., Lahaina, HI 96761; 888/661-7200 or 808/661-3500; mauibeachfront.com). Although the company represents a broad range of properties, it does have some deals for this pricey area, like one-bedroom units (with full kitchen, swimming pool, washer and dryer, barbecue facilities) starting at $89. Two other small budget complexes on the west side, offering excellent rates for families, are: Hale Maui Apartment Hotel, (P.O. Box 516, Lahaina, HI 96767; 808/669-6312), with one-bedroom units that sleep up to five starting at $100; and Hoyochi Nikko (3901 Lower Honoapnlani Rd., Lahaina, HI 96761; 800/487-6002 or 808/669,-8343; mauilodging.com), with one- and two-bedroom units starting at $85. Kauai Kauai Vacation Rentals (3-3311 Kuhio Hwy., Lihue, HI 96766; 800/367-5025 or 808/245-8841; kauaivacationrentals.com) represents a variety of condos and homes all over the island. They have affordable one-bedroom condominium units in the popular Poipu area starting at $725 a week and two-bedroom, one-bath condominium units in Kapaa, a short walk to the beach, for $700 a week. Families interested in the Coconut Coast might want to go directly to the Wailua Bay View condominium (320 Papaloa Rd., Kapaa, HI 96746; 800/882-9007; wailuabay.com). Not only is it located right on the beach, but rates for four people are as low as $110 a night. The property has a swimming pool and barbecue facilities, and all the units are one bedroom with a queen bed, queen sofa bed, full kitchen, washer and dryer, and air-conditioning. And finally, those on the very most frugal of budgets who still want to experience the sun and waves that border the costly resorts of the South Shore should contact Kalaheo Inn (P.O. Box 584, Kalaheo, HI 96741; 888/332-6023 or 808/332-6023; kalaheoinn.com), located just a 12-minute drive from the golden sands of Poipu Beach. This newly renovated, family-oriented inn has full kitchens, TV/VCRs, free games and beach toys, and laundry facilities, with one-bedroom units starting at $55 and two-bedroom units from $75. Oahu On bustling Oahu, especially in the highly sought-after Waikiki area, there are no independent property rental firms representing an inventory of budget-priced condominium units. However, there are numerous older low-rise apartment buildings offering good value within a block of Waikiki Beach. Aloha Punawai (305 Saratoga Rd., Honolulu, HI 96815; 808/923-5211; alternativehawaii/alohapunawai) has large one-bedroom units (which sleep up to five persons) just a half a block from the beach for $95 single occupancy and $10 per additional adult, with children free. These basic, comfortable units (immaculately clean) have small but complete kitchens, private baths, individual lanais, televisions, and coin-operated laundry facilities. Just down the block is a similar older apartment/hotel, Kai Aloha (235 Saratoga Rd., Honolulu, HI 96815; 808/923-6723; e-mail: kai.aloha@gte.net, with full kitchens, air-conditioning, phones, televisions, daily maid service, and coin-operated laundry facilities. The one-bedroom units start at $85 for three people and $95 for four. For larger, more luxurious units with added amenities (pool, exercise room, sun deck, volleyball and basketball courts, and putting green) two blocks from the beach, contact Paradise Management (50 S. Beretania St., Suite C207, Honolulu, HI 96813; 800/367-5205 or 808/538-7145; e-mail: pmchi@gte.net, which manages the Royal Kuhio condominium in Waikiki. These nicely furnished one-bedroom units (with free parking, a plus in crowded Waikiki) start at $105 a night. Family touring & meals Some other approaches to low-cost family vacations in the islands: Book a rental car when you book your condo. "I know it sounds exaggerated, but car/air/condo packages can save you from 25 to 40 percent," says Margy Parker, executive director of the Poipu Beach Resort Association. Most condominium booking agencies have package deals with a four-door economy car for around $150 a week. Food in Hawaii is expensive. Bring a duffel bag from home filled with packaged items for breakfast, lunch, and snacks (cereals, peanut butter, tuna, and paper goods). Then hit the farmer's markets, which are available on every island, and buy fresh tropical produce to augment your groceries. The visitor's associations on each island (see below) can direct you to the closest farmer's market and other discount food outlets (like day-old bread sales at bakeries). For eating out, think picnics rather than restaurants. Kammy Purdy, the executive director of the Molokai Visitors Association, says that as a mother of four, she has often livened up family vacations by planning a trip to a different scenic spot (beaches, hills with panoramic views, waterfalls, etc.) for a lunch or dinner every day. Don't waste a day of your vacation -- plan ahead. "The biggest problem I see is that people wait until they arrive to start finding out what activities are available," says James Metcalf, owner of Hawaii Resort Management. "I talk to thousands of people and it is surprising how many don't do any research or planning in advance." Metcalf suggests contacting the local visitor's bureaus for voluminous information about the island you plan to visit. Look for free or nearly free activities. Check with the local visitor's bureau, the local library, or the local newspaper for family activities in the community. Pick up free visitor publications, not only for their listings of activities but also for their money-saving coupons on everything from macadamia nuts to snorkel gear rental. More information A wealth of information is available from the local visitors' associations on everything from free hula shows to finding ripe papayas at the closest farmer's market. For information statewide, contact the Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau, 2270 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 801, Honolulu, HI 96815, 800/GO-HAWAII or 808/923-1811, gohawaii.com. For island information, contact: Big Island Visitors Bureau, 250 Keawe St., Hilo, HI 96720; 800/648-2441 (recording only) or 808/961-5797; bigisland.org. Maui Visitors Bureau, 1727 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, HI 96793, 800/525-MAUI or 808/244-3530, visitmaui.com. Kauai Visitors Bureau, 4334 Rice St., Suite 101, Lihue, HI 96766, 800/262-1400 or 808/245-3971, kauaivisitorsbureau.org. Also the Poipu Beach Resort Association, P.O. Box 730, Koloa, HI 96756, 888/744-0888 or 808/742-7444, http://www.poipu-beach.org/. Oahu Visitors Bureau, 733 Bishop St., Suite 1872, Honolulu, HI 96813, 888/GO-HONOLULU or 808/524-0722, visit-oahu.com. Jeanette Foster is a Hawaii resident (of 25 years) and co-author of numerous best-selling guidebooks to the islands.

Big Deals on the Big Island

The islands of Oahu and Maui might be better known, but the Big Island is probably the most dramatic and "real" slice of Hawaii left to the traveler. Not only is it home to the fire goddess Pele and her tumultuous lava craters that have been erupting since the early '80s, it also is where the Polynesians from Tahiti first landed over a thousand years ago, and where King Kamehameha the Great was born in 1758. Captain Cook, the great explorer who discovered New Zealand, Hawaii, and parts of Australia, was killed here by islanders in 1779. No wonder Hawaiians even now refer to the Big Island as having great "mana," or spiritual energy. Most tourists come to the Big Island (bigisland.gohawaii.com) to see the fiery furnace of the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (nps.gov/havo), where you can at times witness lava streams gushing into the Pacific and fly over the actual craters in a helicopter. But the rest of the island is worth exploring too, from the snowy summits of Mauna Kea at nearly 14,000 feet, to the desert-like Kohala Coast where whales love to frolic, to the cool slopes of South Kona where the world-famous Kona coffee is grown on family-owned farms. The whole island is nearly four times the size of Rhode Island, so give yourself some time to see it all. But where to stay, you ask? Don't worry -- beyond the mega-resorts, with their fancy rooms and fancy prices, you'll find a plethora of cheap digs around the island. (Although one mega-resort, the Waikoloa Beach Marriott, is offering cheap rates since it is going through a major renovation and retrofitting, with rooms up to 47 percent off until Dec 21.) But let's concentrate on the smaller gems around the island. Starting from the low end of the scale, a great local secret is the Pineapple Park hostels located on either side of the island. Believe it or not, hostels are actually very hard to come by in the hotel-dominated Aloha State, and these two no-nonsense inns are kept clean and friendly by Annie Chong Park (who speaks fluent Korean and some Japanese and runs a beach equipment and kayak rental outfit) and Louis Doc Holliday (who is "full of fish tales and tangled yarns of old Hawaii"). Their Kona-side inn is near Kealakekua, and their Hilo-side inn is near the town of Volcano, and both have communal living rooms and kitchens, video libraries, high speed internet access, laundromats, and are located at a cool 1,500-foot elevation. "VIP" rooms are $85 and come with private bath, lanai, and breakfast for two, while $60 private rooms come with shared bathroom. If you are really roughing it, go for the $20-a-night bunk bed dorm rooms. Info: 877/865-2266, pineapple-park.com. Bed and breakfasts are also harder to find in Hawaii than other states, since getting a B&B license here can be a hassle. But that's not to see they aren't some beauties: The Hale Aloha (800/897-3188, halealoha.com) has rooms starting at $80 queen bed with private bath, and until mid-December it's having an "Aloha Special" of $10 off during the slow period (refer to the special when making your booking). Hale Aloha (meaning "House of Aloha") is nestled up on a sloping mountainside in South Kona, among coffee plantations and macadamia nut orchards. It's very private and quiet, accessible by a long dirt road, and offers sweeping views of the coastline. The house is huge and spacious, and there's a seven-person outdoor hot tub and plenty of lanais with hammocks to wile away the afternoons. Owner Johann Timmermann says, "It's still very rural here, away from the built-up hotel areas, and has that special feel of what Old Hawaii used to be." A mainstay in Hilo on the eastern side of the island in the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel (800/367-5004, castleresorts.com) along the serene shoreline of the town. From now until Christmas, they are offering rooms for $86 (normally they're $140). The place has a swimming pool, sundeck (be warned -- Hilo is the rainiest city in the U.S.), and views of the bay and the long breakwater that was built to prevent tsunamis from devastating the town (which has happened more than once in Hilo's history). A mainstay of Kailua-Kona town on the western side of the island is King Kamehameha's Kona Beach Hotel (800/367-6060, konabeachhotel.com), located right in front of the finish line of the famous annual Ironman International Triathalon, and fronts the only sandy beach in the area, as well as an authentic oceanfront Hawaiian temple. The 460-room hotel also features three restaurants, tennis courts, swimming pool with a whirlpool spa and sauna, a Hawaiian activity center, beauty salon and the only air-conditioned shopping mall in Kona! Its "Paradise on Wheels" package for $148 gets you a mountain-view hotel room, compact rental car, breakfast for two, 10 percent dining discount for parties up to 10 at any of the hotel restaurants, free local telephone calls, free hotel parking, and free tennis court usage. (Normal room rates alone are about $135.) Going more upscale, the Ohana Keauhou Beach Resort (800/462-6262, ohanahotels.com) is next to one of the best snorkeling spots on the island, and features ancient Hawaiian fish ponds on its property. A stroll through the gardens is a lesson in native trees vital to Polynesian life: ulu (breadfruit), kukui (candlenut), and hala (pandanus). There's also a replica of King David Kalakaua's beach cottage, and the remains of three heiau, ancient Hawaiian temples. With its Fun is Fundamental program, you get a garden views room for $119 (normally $189), and a scratch-and-win card for instant prizes. The hotel can add on car rentals $26 a day until the end of the year. So be it a pineapple park or a king's hotel, you are sure to sleep right without breaking the bank on your next trip to this magical island.

Cinema Paradiso

In their new book, Cinema Treasures, Ross Melnick and Andreas Fuchs celebrate classic theaters, from old to new (see Cinematreasures.org for more info). We asked them to pick seven around the country that still show films. Make any necessary detours--because there's definitely more to a glamorous night at the movies than cup-holder armrests. Cape Cinema, Dennis, Mass. Built to resemble a church in nearby Centerville, the colonial exterior belies the pulsing art deco inside, including a 6,400-square-foot Rockwell Kent mural. At its 1930 opening, the theater promised, "We shall endeavor not to waste your time or insult your intelligence by offering mediocre films." Indeed, it continues to showcase the best of art house cinema. 820 Rte. 6A, 508/385-2503, capecinema.com. Paramount Center for the Arts, Peekskill, N.Y. The Paramount--built in 1930 "in the glorified treatment of the English Elizabethan"--has morphed into a true center for the arts, but films are still shown Thursday through Sunday when there are no live events scheduled. Busts of Julius Caesar and Dante Alighieri are part of the show. 1008 Brown St., 914/739-2333, paramountcenter.org. The Senator Theatre, Baltimore, Md. Since he purchased the theater that was once part of his grandfather's Durkee Enterprises circuit, Tom Kiefaber has put all of his time, money, and sweat into this 65-year-old art moderne classic. Attended over the years by local cinephiles--including directors John Waters and Barry Levinson--the Senator books mainstream films like Star Wars but doesn't shy away from controversy, having recently played both A Dirty Shame and The Passion of the Christ to packed audiences. 5904 York Rd., 410/435-8338, senator.com. Oriental Theatre, Milwaukee, Wis. At its 1927 opening, the $1.5 million Oriental was the crown jewel of the Saxe Brothers' circuit. Eight porcelain lions guard the lobby, while the auditorium houses six larger-than-life Buddhas and 26 dragons standing on 26 elephant heads. After also hosting rock concerts in the '70s and '80s, the Oriental was converted by Landmark Theatres into a three-screen cinema in 1988. The 1926 Kimball Theatre Pipe Organ is played before 7 p.m. shows on Fridays and Saturdays. 2230 N. Farwell Ave., 414/276-8711, landmarktheatres.com. The Panida Theater, Sandpoint, Idaho On opening day in 1927, owner F. C. Weskil dedicated his theater "to the people of the pan-handle of Ida-ho." (Hence the name.) Its audience deserted it during the early '80s, then rallied to make great renovation efforts. Rumor has it that Weskil's ghost walks the aisles. 300 N. First Ave., 208/263-9191, panida.org. Cinerama Dome at ArcLight Cinemas Hollywood Hollywood, Calif. The ultimate in wide-screen presentation in 1963, the Dome has a geodesic ceiling of 316 interlocking hexagonal concrete panels (with a lone octagon on top). In 2002 Pacific Theatres opened 14 spacious "black box" auditoriums right next door. Just like the classic Dome, ArcLight Cinemas has since set a new standard in moviegoing, with a cozy café, a bountiful movie boutique, and special events and exhibits. 6360 W. Sunset Blvd., 323/464-1478, arclightcinemas.com. Arlington Theatre, Santa Barbara, Calif. After passing the freestanding ticket booth and a fountain, you enter a faux Spanish courtyard with twinkling stars on the auditorium ceiling's night sky and 3-D villas along its walls. Get there early: Not to save a seat (there are more than 2,000), but to gawk at what architect Joseph Plunkett dreamed up on a napkin seven decades ago. This first-run movie house is also home to the Santa Barbara Symphony. 1317 State St., 805/963-4408, metropolitantheatres.com.

Inspiration

We Usually Avoid Chains, But...

When it comes to chain stores, sameness rules. But visiting a foreign chain can give you a real sense of just how unique a place can be. Nowhere is this more true than Canada, where restaurants slather their fries in gravy and hockey gear takes up half a floor at department stores. Even the coffee tastes different--in the wonderfully same way. Shopping Canadian retail begins with the huge department store the Bay, part of the Hudson's Bay Company, a massive chain with multiple floors (hbc.ca/bay, 98 locations). It sells Canada's must-have souvenir, the woolen Hudson's Bay Company blanket, similar to the ones the first explorers traded (from $205). Winners is Canada's answer to Ross: designer clothes for the entire family, at bargain prices (winners.ca, 168 locations). Laura Canada features upscale women's clothes; check here for the London Fog coat of your dreams (laura.ca, 141 locations). And make your yoga class gasp with envy after your trip to Lululemon Athletica for earthy, flattering gear and workout clothes (lululemon.com, 14 locations). There are two names to know for books and records: Chapters, Canada's answer to Borders, with British titles added to the mix and an extensive magazine selection (chapters.indigo.ca, 72 locations). And A&B Sound is a record store staffed by the types who can list the B sides of every hit single from the last 50 years (absound.ca, 22 locations). Food For cheap and tasty coffee and doughnuts, locals head to Tim Hortons (timhortons.com, over 2,400 locations). U.S.-owned Wendy's bought the chain in 1995--and there are a growing number of locations in the States--but it remains a Canadian breakfast institution. Eggspectation's Eggwhat? Breakfast (yes, that's the name) will fill you up: corned beef hash, eggs, potatoes (eggspectation.ca, nine locations in the eastern provinces). For lunch, White Spot's fish-and-chips is only $7 (whitespot.ca, 57 locations, western provinces); or try Earls for its famous cedar-planked salmon (earls.ca, 50 locations in the western provinces). And prime rib at The Keg Steakhouse & Bar provides the making of a nice evening out (kegsteakhouse.com, 72 locations). Thanks to their British roots and cold climate, Canadians truly understand and value the importance of a good cup of coffee or tea, as Murchie's demonstrates (murchies.com, five locations, western provinces). Its Golden Jubilee tea was blended specially for the Queen (50 bags $9). Hotels Canada lacks large nationwide hotel chains, but it does have some fine local mini-chains. British Columbia's Accent Inns have big rooms in three-diamond properties with the kind of thoughtful touches--drawer of business supplies, nice bathroom amenities--you'd expect in hotels twice the price (accentinns.com, five locations). Stay close to downtown Victoria and Vancouver for as low as $64, or head to their property in the Okanagan Valley (Canada's Napa), which offers winery tour packages. In the east, string together stays at Coastal Inns for a family-friendly Atlantic Canada road trip (coastalinns.com, seven locations). Think of it as a Best Western with all the sports channels showing hockey. Or treat yourself to a night at Rodd Hotels & Resorts: 13 eastern locations, with a suite in a four-star property starting at $161 (rodd-hotels.ca). How does VAT work? Visitors to Canada can get a partial refund on GST/HST sales taxes, or value added taxes (VAT), on most purchases and accommodations. Here's how it works: If you spend more than CAD $200 and leave the country within 60 days, hang on to your receipts and have them stamped at the departure airport or border. (The refund only covers items over CAD $50.) Submit them with form GST176 (available from banks and tourist-info centers, or download it from cra-arc.gc.ca). It may take up to six weeks to get your refund, but the 7 percent discount is worth it.