6 Unforgettable African Wildlife Trips

Africa's a big place. How do I decide where exactly to go? To the uninitiated, planning a safari can seem daunting, but it doesn't have to be. Wildlife excursions are largely confined to eastern and southern Africa, where the Big Five (lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants, and Cape buffalos) converge. Within those regions, there are some basic rules that help distinguish the kind of experience each country offers. On the approachable end of the spectrum, Kenya and South Africa are among the easiest-to-navigate nations in Africa. Both have well-developed tourism infrastructures with accessible parks, plush lodges, and plenty of flights and outfitted trips, so safaris there tend to be simple to arrange and comparatively cheap. On the more adventurous side, Tanzania and Uganda in the east and Botswana and Zimbabwe in the south offer more rugged, unique experiences and fewer crowds, although generally at a higher price. Once you decide which type of adventure you’d prefer, it seriously helps to zero in on specific trips by tapping a safari-savvy travel agent. Travelhub.com has a robust database that lists hundreds of travel agencies, and it allows you to search specifically for safari specialists. How much can I expect to pay? Regardless of how you do it, safaris don’t come cheap. A weeklong trip is typically at least $4,000: Guided safaris start at roughly $250 per person per day—and that’s before you’ve paid for airfare to Africa. International flights aren’t usually included in safari packages and typically cost $2,000 or so. That said, there are some strategies that help keep prices relatively low. Booking your initial flight through an Africa-focused ticket consolidator, such as Premier Tours (premiertours.com) or Magical Holidays (800/228-2208) can save you up to 30 percent. Also, if you don’t mind a little rain, you can cut the cost of lodging in half by traveling during the wet season, from November to March. The Mara Serena Safari Lodge in Kenya’s Maasai Mara reserve, for instance, charges $260 for a double room in early December and $600 for that same room during the peak July–October period. Also, storms are brief and usually limited to the afternoon. “Personally, I think you’re missing out if you never see a rain shower in Africa—they’re spectacular,” says Bill Given, a biologist and researcher at the Denver Zoo who also guides custom safaris for his company, The Wild Source (thewildsource.com). “The worst that happens is you get a little wet and wind up spending a few hours indoors watching a powerful display of Mother Nature.” Finally, make sure to read the fine print. Much like an ocean cruise, a safari with a higher price tag may end up being cheaper than one that costs less up front but requires paying extra for one-off experiences as you go. Upgrades such as traveling in a private group, visiting private game reserves, and hopping around on charter planes will quickly ratchet up costs, sometimes to the tune of $1,000 a day. And those splurges don’t always pay off: “You don’t necessarily get better wildlife experiences by spending lots of money,” Given says. “At some point, the steep rates are because the lodge has a spa and you’re eating gourmet, six-course meals.” How do I find a good outfitter? Bottom line: It’s all about your guide. “That person will absolutely make or break your trip,” says Peter Allison, who chronicled his own adventures in Whatever You Do, Don’t Run: True Tales of a Botswana Safari Guide. “A good guide will not only point out where the lions are, but will also teach you how to listen to calls, follow tracks, and spot that lion tail in a field of tall grass.” Allison recommends looking for outfitters that specifically tout the expertise of their trip leaders. Fodor’s The Complete African Safari Planner, which lists descriptions of 24 reliable agencies, is a good place to start. When you speak to the company representatives, don’t hesitate to ask about the strength of individual guides, and be sure to request references. Finally, because animals move based on migratory and weather patterns, a good safari operator will adjust itineraries throughout the year to maximize wildlife sightings. Consider it a red flag if a company offers the exact same trips year-round. Any other general tips? Focus on the experience, not your photo album. If your head is behind a lens the whole time, you may not be able to take in the bigger picture. Also, don’t have unrealistic expectations about the number of animals you’ll see. “Some novices expect every plain to be carpeted with cheetahs chasing gazelles,” Allison says. You’re not on a Discovery Channel show; it’s a vacation. So keep an open mind and remember that every animal has its charms, from warthogs (“possibly the only animal that looks better from the back than the front,” Allison says) to zebras (“no less fantastic-looking than unicorns”). By the Numbers 8,000 Approximate number of wildebeests born each day in Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, from December through March 29 Number of elephants per square mile at Botswana’s Chobe National Park—some 120,000 in all 19,300 Size, in square miles, of Tanzania’s Selous Game Reserve, Africa’s largest national park (about the same area as 19 Rhode Islands!)

Warm waters, sheltered coves, consistent winds, and a seemingly endless array of islands-the Caribbean was made to be sailed. But that doesn't mean all parts were created equal, which is why sailors tend to gravitate to five regions: the British Virgin Islands, St. Martin and Antigua, St. Lucia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, and Grenada. Each has its draws. The Virgins, for example, have the best sailing infrastructure (most charters, well-defined routes and moorings), but that means the islands can be over-crowded in high season (December to mid April). On the flip side, Grenada and St. Lucia are less crowded, but the sailing often involves longer passages over open water, which can make landlubbers a bit squeamish. St. Martin and Antigua are great bets for pristine beaches, but  power boaters have figured that out as well, so you'll have (loud) company. That leaves St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Sparely visited and with occasionally choppy seas, this country's collection of tiny, uninhabited cays and lush green islands feels like the Caribbean 30 years ago-all charming ports, undeveloped bays, and untracked beaches. Casting Off To hoist your own sail, you've basically got two options. You could captain a private charter boat, otherwise known as bareboating. Or you could skip the sailing courses, the charts, and the nail-biting passages around unfamiliar reefs, and rent a boat with a skipper. (Can you tell which way we're leaning?) When it comes to the actual selection of your boat, there are more than enough charter operations to help you along. The default operators are The Moorings (moorings.com) and Sunsail (sunsail.com); the two chains have new boats, branches in most sailing centers, and prices that reflect the premium service (a week with a skipper will cost you about $210 per person per day, not including food). If you'd prefer lower prices, go with a smaller, local company, such as Barefoot (barefootyachts.com) or Horizon (horizonyachtcharters.com); they have older boats, more laid-back service standards (island time, mon), and rates of $125-$150 per person per day—or as little as $200 a day for a crewed boat, plus a cook and food. If all this sounds baffling, you may want to start your search with a charter broker like Ed Hamilton & Co. (ed-hamilton.com). Brokers help answer pressing questions about the best type of boat (a catamaran, because it's more stable) or the ideal season (late April through June for the best combination of deals and weather). Then they'll pair you with a private owner and captain at rates starting at around $155 a day. Our photographer used Captain Eric Stahl and his boat Tachyon (tachyonsailing.com). Packing & Provisioning A key rule of the sea: If you feel like you've packed too little, you've still probably overdone it. Space is tight on a boat, so bring only the absolute basics and stuff them into a soft duffel (preferable to a wheelie bag for easy storage). Most sailors like to bring a guidebook-but not of the Lonely Planet variety. The Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands (cruisingguides.com, $30) is the true boater's companion for these parts. It covers all you need to know about anchorages, restaurants, and water-sports outfitters. On the topic of food, sailors have three options: Hire a cook (from about $110 a day); buy a provisioning package from your rental outfit so you arrive to a fully stocked boat (about $30 per person a day); or simply do the stocking yourself. The decision is yours, but remember, this is a vacation after all. The Route DAY 1St. Vincent to MustiqueThe private island of Mustique, about three hours from St. Vincent, is the most upscale in the Grenadines; Mick Jagger and Elton John both vacation here. What better place to begin your yacht trip? Moor near the famed Basil's Bar and head up the hill to Firefly (fireflymustique.com) for a sunset cocktail and an incredible view of your boat anchored in the harbor below. DAY 2Mustique to MayreauThanks to the perfect crescent of white sand and the beachside bar at Salt Whistle Bay, about four hours from Mustique, most travelers don't venture to the village atop Mayreau, the smallest inhabited island in the Grenadines. But those who make the 20-minute climb are rewarded with a picturesque stone Catholic church and a stunning 360-degree view of the Caribbean. DAY 3Mayreau to Tobago CaysThe setting for Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl, the uninhabited Tobago Cays are about as idyllic as the Grenadines get. Longtime skipper and Sunsail manager Simon Carey recommends a picnic on Baradal Island's U-shaped beach, then swimming with the green turtles often seen at the nearby reserve. DAY 4Tobago Cays to Mopion to Petit St. VincentA solitary thatched umbrella stands at one end of the 50-foot-long curve of sand that is Mopion island. Stop for a snorkel then move on to Petit St. Vincent. There isn't much here—besides miles of palm-fringed beaches—so guidebook author Chris Doyle suggests radioing the nearby Palm Beach Restaurant & Bar; the staff will shuttle you from your yacht to a table on the beach. DAY 5Petit St. Vincent to Union IslandOn your way into the harbor at Union, about two hours from PSV, stop for a rum punch at Happy Island, an artificial landmass created by one man—Janti—from a mountain of conch shells. Then continue on to Union. For dinner, Doyle recommends the fresh conch and French-Creole fusion fare at West Indies Restaurant. DAY 6Union Island to Petit Nevis to BequiaAccording to Carey, the waters off Petit Nevis, about five hours from Union Island, are one of the area's best-kept secret snorkeling destinations, rivaling even the Tobago Cays. Following a swim, sail north to Bequia, famous for its boat building, to sample a conch roti at a picnic table at the Green Boley Restaurant & Bar. Top it off with a cocktail at Jack's Bar, a tented open-air establishment on Princess Margaret Beach. DAY 7Return to St. VincentMost charters are due in port by noon—just in time to take in St. Vincent. If you can't make the trip up the island's still-active volcano, La Soufrière (about five hours round trip and worth it), then head over to Montreal Gardens (montrealestgdns.f9.co.uk), which are surrounded by banana plantations and rain forest, all cut with walkways and shaded by tree ferns.

Whether your perfect day in Paris is defined by tackling flea markets or wandering through charming arrondissements, a well-positioned patisserie can add a delicious reprieve. All the better that a fresh wave of pâtissiers, trained by the masters, has opened a handful of intimate shops around town where they're remaking the monuments of French decadence—be it a Saint-Honoré, a religieuse, a Paris-Brest, or a tarte tatin. Consider them the ideal excuse for a well-timed rest.   3rd arr.Pain de SucreNathalie Robert and Didier Mathray first met in the pastry kitchen at Pierre Gagnaire's eponymous three-Michelin-starred restaurant 12 years ago. They fell in love and set off on their own to open Pain de Sucre (meaning "sugarloaf"), a simple space with a restored coffered ceiling in dessert-appropriate tones of chocolate brown and caramelized amber. Set on rue Rambuteau in the Marais, the understated storefront is just three blocks northeast from the outdoor benches overlooking Renzo Piano's iconic steel Centre Pompidou and the jungle-gym like Stravinsky fountain. In other words, it's perfect for pastries to go. EAT IT Nathalie and Didier both have a hand in creating Pain de Sucre's confections, subtly tweaking the giants of French pastrydom like a lemon tart flavored with delicate notes of lime ($6.25). FIND IT 3rd arr. (Métro Rambuteau), 14 rue Rambuteau, 011-33/1-45-74-68-92, patisseriepaindesucre.com 3rd arr.Jacques GeninSelf-taught Jacques Genin used to sell his chocolates and caramels solely to restaurants and hotels (the Ritz being one), but when he heard about a space for rent in the hip northern corner of the Marais, he decided to make his goods available to the masses. Genin's 2-year-old, loft-style shop mixes refined details—bas-relief murals, flower arrangements on the counters—with industrial elements such as metal beams and stone walls, giving the space a casual vibe. The street-level tea salon is a case study in comfort, with armchairs where you can sample pastries fresh from the kitchen upstairs. Outside, the Marais's quiet streets are populated by locals picking up loaves from their favorite boulangerie and the occasional savvy tourist, heading to the Marché des Enfants Rouges food market nearby. EAT IT If you can't make up your mind about what to order, opt for Genin's twist on the Saint-Honoré, the traditional pastry base garnished with vanilla whipped cream and three flavors of cream puffs: chocolate, caramel, and the classic vanilla ($9.25). FIND IT 3rd arr. (Métro République), 133 rue de Turenne, 011-33/1-45-77-29-01   Related: Secret Hotels of Paris   5th arr.Carl MarlettiIt's unusual to see a pâtissier running the counter—unless you're talking about Carl Marletti, the owner of this shop of the same name. Every Sunday you can be sure to see him at the counter of his Latin Quarter location. Out front, tiny tables take in views of the tranquil Saint-Médard garden along with some of Paris's best people-watching. A bustling daily market transforms nearby rue Mouffetard into a shopper's delight. EAT IT Marletti's pistachio religieuse ($5), a house favorite, is made with a vibrantly flavorful pistachio paste imported from Piedmont. He also whips up new batches of mille-feuille ($5.25), also known as a Napoleon, throughout the day, so its perfectly caramelized crunch is fresh no matter what time you drop by. FIND IT 5th arr. (Métro Censier-Daubenton), 51 rue Censier, 011-33/1-43-31-68-12, carlmarletti.com   7th arr., 16th arr.La Pâtisserie des RêvesThe name "Pastry Shop of Dreams" refers to the store's desserts, but "dreamy" could just as easily apply to the shop's team: Chef Angelo Musa—a winner of the Pastry World Cup and a Meilleur Ouvrier de France, the highest honor a French artisan can earn—partnered with legendary chef Philippe Conticini and hotelier Thierry Teyssier, the man behind the Maisons des Rêves boutique properties in Morocco and Portugal. Together they created two shops: one in the posh 7th arrondissement, one in the museum-rich 16th. The latter is a 10-minute walk from the Palais de Chaillot (which has arguably one of the city's best views of the Eiffel Tower), and it features a salon de thé and an atelier des choux, where cream puffs are assembled before your very eyes. EAT IT A year of exhaustive edible R & D paid off with a line of classics that includes a Paris-Brest—a ring of choux pastry garnished with praline cream that reveals pockets of liquid praline ($7). FIND IT 7th arr. (Métro rue du Bac), 93 rue du Bac, 011-33/1-42-84-00-82; 16th arr.(Métro rue de la Pompe), 111 rue de Longchamp, 011-33/1-47-04-00-24; lapatisseriedesreves.com   12th arr.Blé SucréFabrice Le Bourdat worked as a pastry chef in chic palace hotels like the Bristol before opening Blé Sucré ("sweet wheat") in a village-like area near the Bastille. His is a perfected version of the neighborhood pastry shop: The decor is neat but not flashy (a simple slate-gray façade and pale pink painted walls), the prices are reasonable, and his line of confections includes a wide range of flawlessly executed staples from vanilla mille-feuilles to coffee éclairs. Outside, the area hums with people heading to and from nearby Gare du Lyon, a five- minute walk south. EAT IT The tarte tatin on a thick Breton sablé ($4.25), or butter cookie, and the baba au rhum with whipped cream ($4.75) are two particularly delicious highlights. FIND IT 12th arr. (Métro Ledru-Rollin), 7 rue Antoine Vollon, 011-33/1-43-40-77-73   See more popular stories Top 10 Most Travel-Inspiring Films 9 Must-Visit Caribbean Islands Check Out Our Editor-Selected Deals Confessions of a Hotel Housekeeper