'Da Vinci Code' Sneak Peek

May 18, 2006

Last night we went to an advance screening of Ron Howard's much-hyped movie and, having read the gripping best seller, it felt like a letdown. While they've successfully simplified the plot, it's not easy to keep the action chugging along when nearly every step has to be explained with expository dialogue and calls for shots of the overly earnest co-stars thinking intently--their lack of chemistry doesn't help either. (It's worth noting that the beginning is particularly gruesome; one of us found it too violent and left!)

Apart from Ian McKellan's spirited turn as Leigh Teabing, one of the things the movie does get right is the scenery: dazzling shots of the Louvre and Paris by night; a birds-eye view of London and Tower Bridge; Sophie and Langdon whizzing through narrow European streets in a Smart Car (fun!); and the soaring stained-glass windows of Westminster Abbey. It makes you remember how marvelous these blockbuster sights are--with or without The Da Vinci Code--and introduces a few lesser-known gems like Scotland's Rosslyn Chapel.

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    Your Suggestions

    In April, we chose the 10 coolest small towns in the U.S.A. Expecting disagreements, we asked for your suggestions. Read the best response--and the runners-up. The Winner: Rockland, Maine I think you missed Rockland, Maine, in your list of America's 10 Coolest Small Towns. I live here so I'm probably biased, but Rockland really is pretty cool. Our downtown has undergone a huge transformation from being a smelly fish-processing waterfront to being a hip art community. The Farnsworth Art Museum is in the heart of downtown, with art shops and galleries popping up all around. Our downtown movie theater was closed for a few years and recently reopened after an extensive renovation. The Strand is once again alive and well and showing unique films and live stage performances at reasonable prices. You can even order wine or beer in the balcony seating area! The downtown building where our local paper used to be published is now our visitor information center and the Maine Lighthouse Museum, a wonderful new facility. The waterfront boardwalk is frequented by locals walking their dog or by visitors taking in the beauty of our large natural harbor gated by a mile-long breakwater with a distinctive lighthouse at the end--the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse, currently undergoing restoration and open for tours on summer weekends. There are lots of great shops, restaurants, and cozy B&Bs in town. My favorites? Planet Toys--where you can play for hours! Second Read--a great used book store with a funky wooden floor. Their café-style pastries and drinks are delightful. Waterworks--a local hangout serving pub-style fare and always-free popcorn! The Brass Compass--no place better for breakfast. The Brown Bag--no place better for lunch (okay, occasionally Wasses Hot Dogs). The Limerock Inn, The Old Granite Inn, Berry Manor Inn--all wonderful downtown B&Bs. Thorndike Creamery--great ice cream, as well as New York-style pizza by the slice. Yum! And there's so many more, too many to mention. In Rockland, you can find anything from clothing, toys, jewelry, and appliances to great food. (A sushi restaurant will open soon.) You're just as likely to be walking down Main Street next to a lobsterman as you are someone from New York. We are both the Lobster Capital of the World, and the Schooner Capital of the World; there's even a boat-building school. But what makes Rockland so cool is that there's all this change, but it's still a hotbed of commercial fishing, windjammer sailing, and traditional wooden boat-building. Somehow it all coexists. --Brenda Walker Fairfield, Iowa Fairfield, Iowa, nicknamed by some as Silicorn Valley, sits in the southeast corner of Iowa. It has a population of about 10,000, and one-third of the population is associated in some way with Maharishi University of Management, a bastion of the Transcendental Meditation organization. In Fairfield, creativity rules. It has nearly everything: the largest greenhouse operation in Iowa (organic too!); the highest per capita concentration of restaurants in the country; one of the most popular art events in the state, 1st Fridays; the newest city in Iowa, Maharishi Vedic City, just north of Fairfield; and a multitude of new businesses that have sprouted all around town. It is indeed a wellspring of creativity and energy in the midst of a typical midwestern farm town. You'll find dozens of companies and organizations oriented around natural health care, education, and a healthy environment, including a very active trails program with 33 miles of trails surrounding the entire town and the first eco-friendly pet shelter in the world, Noah's Ark. Also, check out The Raj, a premier Ayurvedic health spa attracting visitors from around the world. The town was recently awarded the Grassroots Entrepreneurship Award by the National Council of Small Cities. About 50 companies now make their headquarters in Fairfield. One of the most recent developments is the announcement by ReFuel Amercia that it plans to build a biodiesel plant in town that will have an estimated capacity of 60 million gallons. Unlike many small midwestern towns, the town square is filled with thriving businesses and restaurants. One could visit for a week, eating at a different restaurant every meal! And the summer concerts on the square rock. There are special visitor weekends for tours of the University and Maharishi Vedic City, and plans are underway to build a $6-million-dollar County Civic Center that will house a 520-seat auditorium and a 12,000-square-foot event pavilion. Is this town cool or what...? --Michael Moore Gunnison, Colorado At an elevation of 7,703 feet, Gunnison, Colo. rises above most small towns and epitomizes small-town Colorado. Gunnison, or Gunny, as the locals affectionately call it, offers adventurous visitors much delight. Located in the Gunnison Valley, it provides free-of-charge 360-degree mountain views that enrich the soul. Fishing Gunny's trout-filled rivers, lakes, and streams is a world-class experience. The waters are never crowded. But if you find locals, they will surely offer a quick smile, genuine greetings, and accurate advice about what fish are biting on. Hartman's Rocks is a mountain-biking, four-wheeling, bouldering, hiking paradise that covers more than 6,000 acres, and is merely a short bike ride from the coffee shop downtown (and an equally short trip back to the Gunnison Valley Hospital). Less than thirty miles up the main road from the undulating campus of Gunny's small liberal arts college Western State College is the famed ski resort Crested Butte, or in local-speak CB. It may be necessary to live in Gunny for a while if one wants to sample all it offers, but one trip is all it takes to appreciate this small town's land, people, and shooting-star-riddled sky. --Robert H. Scott III, Ph.D. Kingston, New York Visit Kingston, N.Y.--what a lovely place, nestled in the Catskill Mountains. The portico-covered uptown area, with many artists' studios, antique stores, and galleries, is gorgeous! All-natural meat and produce stands are there for the taking. Just two hours from Manhattan, with some of the most beautiful stone houses in the country. The only city in the United States with original stone houses built during the 1600s, on four adjoining corners. The Old Dutch Church, built in 1661, burned to the ground in 1663 during the Indian massacre; it was rebuilt in 1669 of stone, and still stands. Other stone beauties include: the Court House, c.1684; the Senate House, c.1676; The Hoffman House, c.1688; still a working restaurant with original fireplaces. Kingston was the first capitol of New York State, there's loads of history here, and it is charming. Sitting right on the Hudson River with mountain. views, there is ice skating, skiing and winter sports. For weekend visitors in late summer or fall, pick-your-own farms abound, particularly many apple orchards! The bistros, cafés and pumpkin patches lure you back into a forgotten time. Worth the trip for an old-fashioned homemade ice cream cone, or to visit one of the local wineries. Still a bargain to live there, it's certainly worth the trip from anywhere. --Lois Concra Peculiar, Missouri When I think of Peculiar, Mo., I don't think it is peculiar. I think it is anything but. We're a small town--with a diner where our whole family meets every Saturday morning for breakfast (usually at least 15 people, sometimes more); where the high school football team has won the state championship two years in a row; where our kids can breathe the fresh country air, have occasional snow days from school in the winter and catch frogs down by the pond on hot summer nights; where you can wake in the mornings and see wild turkeys strutting across your driveway, and squirrels and redbirds practically sharing the same fence post. Things change, but in Peculiar things change slowly. We have yet to get high-speed internet service, but we did recently get our first electric stop light. Peculiar does not have any museums, tourist attractions, or a neat historic shopping district. But what this small town does have is people who sincerely care, root for each other, and are passionate about living the small town life. And Peculiar is a place I am proud to call home. --Rebecca Lowery South Bend, Washington We live in the small town of South Bend, Wash. on the bend of the Willapa River. It is a town of 1800. We came here from Seattle in 1954, never dreaming we would spend the rest of our lives here. We raised four daughters who, unfortunately, migrated to bigger towns, went to college, did well, and are all happy--and looking forward to each visit back home. It is a fishing village with lots of fishing boats along the river during fishing season. It is also the home of many oyster beds, claiming to be the largest oyster-growing area in the United States. Oysters from South Bend are shipped all over the world. South Bend also has a shrimp and crab facility. Pacific County's Courthouse is here; it's  one of the few remaining original courthouses in the country. People here are friendly. In the stores, customers are called by their first name. I worked in real estate for 18 years, and during that time, I met many people who were just traveling through South Bend. Some of them stopped and eventually moved here. The prices for real estate are reasonable. There are no big traffic jams, no traffic lights, good water and environment conditions, clean air--what else would you want? One of our greatest achievers was Helen Davis, who wrote the state song "Washington, my Home." A Congressional Medal Winner, Bob Bush (now deceased) is also from South Bend. Actually, many other great people in Washington came from this small town. We are all very proud of our town and of our friendliness. Come visit us and find out why. --Sylvia Halldorson

    If You Love New Orleans, Go Visit Now

    Tourism is the lifeblood of the city, and its future depends on getting visitors to come back. But if officials crow too loudly that the French Quarter, Garden District, and other popular areas are pretty much back to normal, they risk alienating locals who are desperately trying to get the federal government to spend the money necessary to restore the areas where tourists don't go. So we're telling you: If you love New Orleans, go visit it. Now.   This is such a crucial time. Just as the city is wobbling to its feet, here comes summer: the traditional low season, when temperatures rise. Then, as we near August--the one-year anniversary of Katrina--the media will once again replay all that horrifying footage, keeping even more people away. The whole country will be holding its breath during hurricane season, praying that lightning doesn't strike twice in the same spot. So why wait? If you love New Orleans, go visit it. Now.  Convention business isn't slated to return to the city until 2007. In the meantime it's up to us, the leisure travelers, to fill the gap. The people there need us. They need us to stay at their B&Bs, to eat at their restaurants, to shop at their boutiques. (Admit it: You'd love a T-shirt that says MAKE LEVEES NOT WAR) But mostly they need to see us, to see that we care enough to visit not just when the good times are rolling, but after the bad times, too. It's not so much as they need to tell their stores; it's that they need to know they're being heard.   Leisure travel is usually a fairly selfish endeavor, but this is a rare case where we can do some good simply by showing up. If you love New Orleans, go visit it. Now. Related links:   New Orleans Right Now   Where to Eat, Stay, and Help in New Orleans   Free and Discounted Stays for Volunteers   Real Deals: Airfare and four nights at the W New Orleans, $345

    Trip Coach: May 16, 2006

    Holly Morris: Hi there, Holly Morris here. Fire away with your questions! _______________________ Redmond, WA: Will be traveling to AZ the end of June with our two teenagers, 12 & 15. One week in Tucson, 1-2 days up in Grand Canyon, and three days in Phoenix. What would you suggest are the MUST SEE & DO there? Also, my son is very interested in rocks & minerals- is there anywhere he can actually go digging? Thank you. Holly Morris: Hiking with your teenagers is a great bonding experience. If you're into a more dramatic, rougher hike, the Kaibab is supposed to be the route for you. It's 3 miles round-trip - so bring your water bottle. Near Mathers point there's an excellent lookout and visitors center - and I bet your son could get his fill of info on rocks and minerals there. The Bright Angels trail - which is less rough than Kaibab - will mostly likely bring a visit from the California Condors... _______________________ Aspen, CO: I'm an Aunt to a wonderful nephew & niece. I love to travel, so for their college graduation "gift" I'd planned on taking them on a trip overseas. Thanks to information I found in "Budget Travel" 3 years ago, I was able to take my nephew to Florence, Italy for 6 days. It's now my niece's turn! She'd love a destination which involves a BEACH; I've been looking at Greece, but am open to suggestions. Due to my job (I work in a winter/summer resort town) and the need to save some money, travel must be in the spring or fall of 2007. I'm single, work full-time, and of course will be paying for 2 people - HELP Budget Travel! Holly Morris: What a wonderful tradition Auntie. If you're feeling sporty, I'd recommend going to the amazing beaches and delicious culture of Bahia, Brazil. There's a wonderful fishing village called Itacare that has a range of accommodations. And you two can go to surf camp - no experience necessary. and not too expensive. Check out easydrop.com and I think the town of Itacare has a site too. You can google it.. Hang ten. _______________________ Canton (Atlanta), GA: Next year, I and several of my friends will be turning 50 years "young." Rather than looking at this milestone negatively, I would like to make it an event to look forward to. I would love to go on a group (girls) trip to experience someplace and something out of the ordinary (such as the zipline thru the jungles of Costa Rica or Belize), yet be able to relax and be pampered as well - all of this on a relatively low budget of course! Where would you suggest, and what time of year would be best? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks -Cathy Holly Morris: Georgia Ladies -well I am biased - but I think you should go on an Adventure Diva tour trip! We're taking groups of women to India, Peru, Brazil and New Zealand throughout 2007. Check out adventuredivas.com And a few literary companions? How about the anthologies of Seal Press' Adventura series - books by and about women travelers. Or, the classic girl roadtrip book 'Bad Girls Guide To The Open Road'. _______________________ Albuquerque, NM: My husband and I are seeking a romantic destination for celebrating our 10th wedding anniversary. Any suggestions? Holly Morris: If you would like to stay relatively close to home, how about a romantic houseboat trip on Lake Powell? A little bubbly while bobbing on gentle waters at sunset? And plenty of privacy. _______________________ Spring Lake, MI: My husband and I will be celebrating our 40th anniversary this summer and would like to plan a rail trip "Out West". We have traveled all over the world, but have never seen the Grand Canyon. Any suggestions for an itinerary? Thank You for your consideration, Ann Holly Morris: I hear there's a train that goes right INTO the rim lodge area of the Grand Canyon. Stay at El Tovar - the original oldest hotel. Make your reservations at their fab restaurant well in advance. Go to Xantara's website to make all your reservations for the Grand Canyon....Happy anniversary Ann. _______________________ Sierra Vista, AZ: Mom and I want to go on a European Cruise. If we could only go once in a lifetime, which one should we do? Holly Morris: Sorry I am not up on European cruises - but - I know 3 sisters who took their mom to Alaska on a cruise and gave the trip rave reviews. Spirit Cruises go up the Inside Passage in Alaska are supposed to be the best. They're a bit smaller, and the food is better than the rest of the cruise fare. As for the landscape - stunning, pristine, unique. Might want to read a book about the AK experiences of author Jonathan Raban to get excited.... _______________________ Santa Fe, NM: What is your definition of an "adventure diva"? Holly Morris: Dear Sante Fe, Glad you asked. An Adventure Diva is a woman to chases her passions fully, and fearlessly - and has a healthy sense of humor. She can be an activist, artist, a politico, a filmmaker etc. Has more to do with her approach to life as an adventure and a commitment to changing the world around her. For the expanded idea (and in a bit of shameless self-promotion) check out adventuredivas.com or my book Adventure Divas. _______________________ Sandusky, OH: My husband and I are driving to S. Dakota in November. We will be at Ft. Pierre on Nov 6, to see the buffalo and also where Dances with Wolves was shot. Since we are drving we can go anywhere in the area. What should we not miss? Anything else to see along the way from Ohio to S. Dakota? Thanks for your help. Holly Morris: Badlands Nat'l park, the Black Hills, Consider reading Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee. Of course Mt. Rushmore (see North by Nortwest before you leave) And perhaps MOST importantly - Wall Drug is a must. (and even though it's the other Dakota, watch Fargo before you head out. The pregger cop/hero is a major Adventure Diva!) _______________________ Ventura, CA: I'm a 40 year old single woman who has a 2 week trip to Fiji planned in July 2006. Airfare is already paid but my travel partner suddenly can't go. I don't want to hang out in resorts the whole time, but what are safe options for traveling alone in Fiji? Lucy Holly Morris: Lucy - I've not been to Fiji so I can't offer specifics but I would offer the general advice of GO AND ENJOY. Your partner's dropping out of the picture may be a great opportunity to have an entirely different, self-determined, unexpected adventure. And as for safety - just apply the same rules on the road as you do at home. Be smart, aware and don't let fear restrict you. I agree that you might want to limit your time in resorts. Court the unexpected! For connections and specific advice on that area look at Lonely Planet's Thorntree Forum. bon voyage - _______________________ New York, NY: Every June, in celebration of our wedding anniversary, my husband and I travel abroad. This year our son (he'll be nine months old come June)will be accompanying us. Any suggestions as to where we might go? We've been warned to keep it simple especially since we have a little one now but we refuse to sacrifice adventure and the opportunity to discover hidden gems. All inclusives and cruises don't suit our taste. We're exploring the possibility of staying in a beachhouse (or something comparable) somewhere in Panama or Honduras. Any recommendations that you may be able to provide would be greatly appreciated. Holly Morris: Good for you for not curbing your adventurous spirit due to baby. That's what slings are for, eh? Check into Tulum for beach and archeology. The area is kid-friendly and not too touristy (though there are plenty of services). Costa Rica or Panama for nature hikes, bird-watching and beach. _______________________ Madison, WI: Dear Trip Coach, I just finished my Ph.D. after 11 long years in college. My boyfriend is treating me to an all expenses paid week long vacation at a location of my choosing. We have quick access to the major airports in Detroit or Chicago and would like to spend less than 8 hours getting to our destination. We like urban areas with interesting shops and restaurants, but also enjoy outdoor activities such as bike-riding, swimming and day hiking. We plan to go for 5-7days between August 1st and the 13th.so we have a little flexibility in our dates. I know there are some great areas to visit in August but, honestly, I can't think of where to go. I'm failing my vacation final! We appreciate any ideas we could explore. Thanks. Stacey Holly Morris: Two places come immediately to mind: Seattle, WA and Vancouver BC Seattle is a hip, cosmopolitan city with great shopping (including vintage stores to die for if that interests you), live music and narcotic grade coffee that will keep you perky. AND it is nestled between the Cascade and Olympic mountain ranges which would offer you all the outdoor adventure you could ask for. And August is gorgeous there - no rain. 2 and a half hours north (driving) of Seattle is the city of Vancouver - which is more of an international city than Seattle and offers better nightlife (clubs etc). Vancouver, like Seattle, has great outdoor adventure opportunities - there's Stanley Park where you can rent bikes, and mountains and sea are at your doorstep. Great Native American culture & art - the anthropology museum in Vancouver is amazing. Good Indian food and Chinatown. And shop on Robeson street. alrighty then - book your tix and enjoy. _______________________ Holly Morris: Thanks for all your great questions! Signing off, Holly _______________________