Mexican Wrestling

By Edward Nawotka
June 9, 2005
Ringside seats are best, as long as you're game for some full-body contact

A masked Aztec god, the muscles of his chest outlined in black tattoos, launches from the top rope of the ring, glittering feathers streaming from his costume. Below, a pair of little people in yellow spandex hold down another masked wrestler in a spread-eagle position. The flying Aztec flips and plunges through the thin fog of dry ice hovering over the mat. He lands with a thwack and the crowd groans with pleasure at the sight of a perfectly executed desnucadora (power bomb neck breaker). The Aztec rolls his opponent onto his back and the referee slaps the mat: "¡Uno, dos, tres...!" It's una caída (a pin). Still, it's not over. Using his knee, the Aztec shoves his opponent's face into the mat; with one hand he pulls his victim's head back into a quebradora de a caballo (camel clutch chin lock), and with the other hand tugs the man's mask away, dealing a death blow...to the loser's pride.

It's just another night of Lucha Libre, Mexico's in-your-face brand of professional wrestling. Lucha Libre which translates to "free fighting," is second only to soccer as the country's most popular sport. The use of masks mimics traditions of the original Aztecs, who wore them into battle to inspire fear, and has been popular since the sport began in Mexico City in the 1930s.

Today, you can find masked warriors duking it out almost anywhere in Mexico on almost any night of the week. All major cities, including Guadalajara, Monterrey, and Tijuana, have at least one venue for matches with wrestlers from the two major professional leagues, the CMLL and the AAA. (You're also likely to pass a parking lot or school gym with a homegrown local match between amateurs.) The best place to take in the action is Arena Mexico in Mexico City (189 Calle Dr. Lavista, Col. Doctores, 011-52/55-5588-0385). Known as the Catedral de Lucha Libre, it's the CMLL's home base and the most prestigious wrestling stadium in Mexico, hosting big name stars and the truest-to-tradition fights. Tickets start at $10. If you wouldn't mind a wrestler landing in your lap, ask for a ringside seat. Matches generally take place on Friday, start at 8:30 p.m., and last until around 11:00.

Part of the fun is deciphering all of Lucha Libre's uniquely detailed rules. Whatever arena you choose, fellow fans include everyone from middle-class families with kids to masked older men with dates in tow. Dolled-up teenage girls scream for the oiled-up técnicos (heroes) who strut in accompanied by buxom, bikini-clad dancers. Matches are fought tag-team style; the teams can be made up of a combination of men and women, including minis (little people). There are two types of characters: técnicos and rudos (villains). Sometimes it's tough to tell who's who. (One clue: if you see a gringo wrestler--such as the one named Mr. Texas--you can be confident he's a rudo.) Everyone enters to his own theme song--usually hard rock or mariachi. Unlike the American version, where a single pin ends a match, Lucha Libre requires the best of three caídas, creating soap-operatic tension as each side is virtually guaranteed to win at least one of the first two caídas, forcing a third to decide the match. The most dramatic of all are the revelos suicidas, matches where the losing wrestler agrees to have his head shaved, or worse, surrender his mask. (The importance of the mask cannot be overstated. It represents the honor of the wrestler, and to have it taken is the ultimate humiliation. Mexico's most famous wrestler, El Santo, chose to be buried in his.)

Thanks to an enthusiastic fan base and a growing industry, it's remarkably easy to track down a match. The CMLL website, cmll.com, lists upcoming events in Mexico. And cmllusa.com posts updates about Lucha Libre tours of the U.S. In each Mexican town, promoters place ads for matches in newspapers and the magazines Lucha 2000 and Box y Lucha, as well as on the chat boards of TV stations Univision and Galavision. In the States, Los Angeles--based production Lucha VaVoom integrates Lucha Libre wrestling with a burlesque show and comedians and takes it on the road. The next Lucha VaVoom, a greatest-hits show, is June 29 and 30 at the Mayan Theater in downtown L.A (luchavavoom.com).

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The Mining Towns of Southern West Virginia

John Denver immortalized West Virginia's country roads with the song that's become the de facto state anthem, one that even visitors know by heart. My colleague Moira, who's riding shotgun and taking photographs, and I belt out the lyrics repeatedly during the course of our trip. South of Charleston, country roads crisscross raging rivers, bisect towns too small to show up on a map, and roll over the foothills of the Appalachian mountains. The triangle between Charleston, Beckley, and Lewisburg is almost heaven (as Denver croons and the state's license plates advertise), and not just because of the pleasant driving. There's also enough history to keep us intrigued, enough adventure to keep us active, and enough kitsch to keep us entertained every mile of the way. Day 1: Charleston to Beckley After landing in Charleston midmorning, we head straight for Beckley, home to Tamarack, a 60,000-square-foot circular mall dedicated to West Virginia arts and crafts. Though architecturally bizarre--its roofline resembles the Statue of Liberty's crown, painted fire-engine red--half a million visitors a year come to buy crafts (blown glass, quilts, and wood carvings), listen to musicians, and watch the artists-in-residence work in their glass-walled studios. Our loop through the building ends at the buffet restaurant, where Moira and I fill up on fried-green-tomato sandwiches and pan-seared locally farmed trout before hitting Coal Country. By the 1880s, the completion of the Chesapeake & Ohio and the Norfolk & Western railroads had brought thousands of miners to southern West Virginia. Beckley is the gateway to what's now known as the Coal Heritage Trail, a 100-mile stretch of boom-and-bust towns reaching south to the Virginia border. At the Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine museum--a working mine from 1890 to 1910--we hop a battery-powered tram and venture 1,500 dark feet into the mountain, past mossy walls and under a dripping ceiling. Our guide, Joe Norkevitz, who worked for various local coal companies for 40 years, explains that Beckley miners spent their 16-hour shifts on their knees or backs, as the average coal deposits were only waist high. I start to feel claustrophobic, and it only gets worse as he goes on to explain the dangers of collapses and methane gas explosions. Above ground, a walk through the museum and coal camp provides a look at the stark life miners lived outside of the mountain. A simple stove, desk, and a narrow single bed somehow fit in a tiny shanty, no more than six feet wide by nine feet long. At the Country Inn & Suites nearby, Moira and I have a renewed appreciation for our standard room's size. Day One Lodging Country Inn & Suites2120 Harper Rd., Beckley, 800/456-4000, countryinns.com, from $75 Attractions Tamarack OneTamarack Place, Beckley, 888/262-7225 Beckley Coal MineNew River Park, Beckley, 304/256-1747, open April-October, $15 Resources Southern West VirginiaCVB 221 George St., Beckley, 304/252-2244, visitwv.com Day 2: Beckley to Lewisburg Today's plan is to take scenic Route 3 toward Lewisburg. At White Oak Mountain Sporting Clays, in Shady Spring, manager Joe Clinebell shows us the proper handling of a 12-gauge shotgun. Shooting clay targets is the fastest growing gun sport in the country, says Clinebell, who describes it as "golf with a shotgun." We walk through the woods from station to station, firing at targets that, depending on how they're launched, simulate the movement of rabbits, ducks, or pheasant. Moira has never picked up a gun before but still manages to hit a few. I don't do much better even though I've shot skeet several times recently. Clinebell suggests that keeping my eyes open as I pull the trigger would help my aim. Using up our 50 rounds takes about two hours. By then, we're good and ready to move on to Hinton, a railroad town founded in 1873 at the point where the Greenbrier, Bluestone, and New Rivers meet. On the outskirts, we stop for lunch at Kirk's. The restaurant proper isn't much to look at, but the view from the back deck--it juts out over the New River--is spectacular. Ducks float by below us, and the water churns near the rocky shore. I've heard that Kirk's has the best hot dogs around, and I'm not disappointed--the bun is perfectly toasted, and there's a heap of fries on the side. On Temple Street, the Railroad Museum--which displays old signals, pieces of track, and Pullman uniforms--doubles as a vistors center. We pick up a map and explore the many Victorian buildings that have put Hinton on the National Register of Historic Places. Ten miles past Hinton, we drive over the 6,500-foot Big Bend Tunnel, which John Henry helped construct in the early 1870s. There's an eight-foot bronze statue of him--bare-chested, with a steel-driving hammer in hand--at a turnoff just before Route 3 dives into Talcott. The road continues to meander through the Greenbrier Valley, famous in the early 1900s for its natural mineral springs and exclusive spas. The sulfur-rich water was thought to cure tuberculosis, and trains brought the wealthy and ailing from as far as New York City. We drive past the Pence Springs Resort, formerly the Grand Hotel, which was once one of the area's most luxurious spas. Following the Depression, the place did time as a girls' school and then as a women's prison before reopening in 1987 as a hotel. We cruise into Lewisburg by late afternoon. During the Civil War, the city was a Confederate stronghold until Union forces defeated the Confederate Army here in 1862. A walking tour of the historic district leads us from the Confederate Cemetery to the boutiques and antiques shops on Washington Street. That night, a well-known Lewisburg band called the Manhattan Jazz Quartet is playing at the Sweet Shoppe, a bar where the beer is cheap and there's never a cover. Moira and I listen to the final set before we call it a night at the Hampton Inn. Day Two Lodging Hampton Inn30 Coleman Dr., Lewisburg, 800/426-7866, hamptoninn.com, from $84 Food Kirk's Family RestaurantRte. 3, Hinton, 304/466-4600, hot dog $1.75 Sweet Shoppe125 W. Washington St., Lewisburg, 304/645-3214, beer $2 Attractions White Oak Mountain Sporting Clays2350 Hinton Rd. (Rte. 3), Shady Spring, 304/763-5266, $50 for gun rental and 50 target rounds Hinton Railroad Museum206 Temple St., Hinton, 304/466-5420, summerscvb.com, free Resources Greenbrier CountyCVB 540 N. Jefferson St., Lewisburg, 800/833-2068, greenbrierwv.com Day 3: Lewisburg to Fayetteville We're on the road early because we have to get to Class VI River Runners by 10 a.m. First-timers probably aren't inclined to choose a run that includes Class V rapids, but Moira and I have only one shot at the New River so we decide to make the most of it. (Actually, I insist we make the most of it.) An old school bus takes us the 15 miles to the put-in. As we switchback down a sickeningly steep mountainside to the river's edge, trip leader Eric Cormack goes over his safety spiel. I feel Moira's increasingly nervous glare burning a hole into the side of my face. "If you fall out of the raft, and some of you will," Eric warns, "don't panic, remember to face downriver, and keep your feet up." There are thousands of submerged boulders (the very things that create the white water). "You don't want to get stuck up under there," Eric says succinctly. As it turns out, the bus ride is the scariest part of the day. Our five-hour run along 13 miles of river includes stops for swimming and a picnic lunch. The rapids--with names like Surprise, Pinball, and (ahem) Bloody Nose--are exhilarating, but there's plenty of gentle drifting, too. Just before the pick-up spot, we pass underneath the New River Gorge Bridge, the world's second-longest single-span steel arch. Back at Class VI headquarters, everyone goes to Chetty's Pub to watch the video footage from our trip. (A videographer paddled alongside us in a kayak, taping every scream, spill, and high five.) I catch a glimpse of my face as our raft dropped over one of the more challenging rapids: I look positively deranged--scared out of my mind and loving every minute of it. I happily shell out $14 for a still photo of the moment. Moira and I go back over the bridge to Dirty Ernie's Rib Pit. Co-owner Connie Taylor tells us Dirty Ernie was the foul-mouthed, hard-drinking original owner. Crunching across peanut shells customers have tossed on the cement floor, we head to a booth near the jukebox. A plate of barbecued pork ribs and a cold beer is the perfect end to the day. Day Three Operators Class VI River Runnersoff U.S. 19, near Fayetteville, 800/252-7784, classvi.com, from $89 Food Chetty's Pubabove Class VI River Runners, Fayetteville, 800/252-7784 Dirty Ernie's Rib Pit310 Keller Ave., Fayetteville, 304/574-4822, open late April--mid Oct., ribs from $12 Day 4: Fayetteville to Charleston Leaving Fayetteville, we drive south to a small part of the 70,000-acre New River Gorge National River park. The town of Thurmond--or what's left of it--consists of a couple of abandoned storefronts and a railroad depot. It's hard to picture it as one of the busiest places around at the turn of the century, when there were 26 mines in the area. But Prohibition, competing rail lines, and the Depression took their toll, and by 1940, it was well on its way to becoming a ghost town. The restored Thurmond Depot is now a visitors center and museum, and it's here that we learn one of the town's most colorful tales. The Dunglen Hotel, also known as "Little Monte Carlo," hosted the world's longest continually running poker game. It lasted 14 years and ended only when neighbors from the other side of the river lost their patience and burned the place to the ground in 1930. If Thurmond is the New River's past, Fayetteville is its future. It's become a mecca for outdoor enthusiasts. Every third Saturday in October, a quarter of a million people flock to the area for Bridge Day, when hundreds of base jumpers parachute off the New River Gorge Bridge. In town, we walk down Church Street to the Cathedral Café, in a deconsecrated Methodist church. Sunlight streams in through stained-glass windows as we eat grilled panini--smoked turkey and avocado for me, three cheese for Moira. Back on the Midland Trail, the road clings to the mountain high above the gorge in a series of stomach-wrenching turns. Just past the entrance to Hawk's Nest State Park, one of the turns reveals a wildly painted Volkswagen beetle crashed into the side of a rusty corrugated trailer. It's called the Mystery Hole. Owner Will Morrison makes us promise not to tell what we see on the 10-minute underground tour, and he's the kind of guy you don't cross. Moira gets so discombobulated by the strange happenings (and perhaps my driving) that she ditches me for the parking lot. On our way to the airport, we give our favorite song another go: "Drivin' down the road, I get a feelin' that I should have been home yesterday." But as I look back and catch my last glimpse of the Kanawha River, I can't help wishing we had another day. Day Four Food Cathedral Café134 S. Court St., Fayetteville, 304/574-0202, panini $6.25 Attractions Thurmond Depot Visitor CenterRte. 25 past Glen Jean, 304/465-0508 Mystery HoleU.S. 60, at mile marker 44, 304/658-9101, mysteryhole.com, $4 Resources New River Gorge National River304/465-0508, nps.gov/neri Fayetteville CVB310 N. Court St., Fayetteville, 888/574-1500, visitfayettevillewv.com Finding Your Way Continental, Delta, and US Airways all fly into Charleston's Yeager Airport. For a midsize car, expect to pay about $100 for four days. Before you leave home, pick up a copy of Far Appalachia, in which Noah Adams (former host of NPR's All Things Considered) recounts his journey by jeep, bike, foot, and raft from the New River's source in North Carolina to its mouth at the Gauley Bridge. Day 1: Charleston to Beckley, 60 miles Yeager Airport Road becomes Greenbrier Street/Route 114. Follow signs for I-64 east/I-77 south (also called the West Virginia Turnpike). There are two $1.25 tolls. Take exit 45 for Tamarack; it's visible from the interstate. The Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine is off exit 44. Head east on Route 3 (Harper Road) for a mile and a half and make a left onto Ewart Avenue. After about a mile, you'll see the New River Park entrance on the right. Day 2: Beckley to Lewisburg, 58 miles Follow Route 19 south from Beckley to Shady Spring, then Route 3 east toward Hinton. White Oak Mountain is four miles up on the right. Continue east on Route 3 through Hinton, Talcott, and Pence Springs. At Alderson turn onto Route 63, and at Roncevert, take U.S. 219 four miles into Lewisburg. Day3: Lewisburg to Fayetteville, 57 miles Take I-64 west from Lewisburg and exit at U.S. 60 west, also known as the Midland Trail. At the junction with U.S. 19, head south toward the New River Gorge Bridge. Exit right at Ames Heights Road for Class VI River Runners. If you actually cross the bridge, you've gone too far. Warning: There are lots of cops on U.S. 19; observe the speed limit carefully. After rafting, get back on U.S. 19 south and cross the bridge. Fayetteville is on the other side of the New River. Day 4: Fayetteville to Charleston, 60 miles To reach Thurmond, take U.S. 19 south 12 miles to the Glen Jean exit. Follow the signs about seven miles down narrow Route 25 (no RVs). Backtrack to Fayetteville on U.S. 19. Cross the New River Gorge Bridge one last time and take U.S. 60/Midland Trail heading west to Charleston.

40 Best Bargain Vacations

What You Need to Know to Use This Section All of the rates and packages are accurate and available as of press time, but these trips usually sell out quickly. Additional fees: Any service fees, security and passenger-facility charges, and visa costs generally aren't included; neither are hotel, car rental, and airport taxes. Such charges vary widely--expect $300 (and higher) for spots where visas alone cost $100 or more. Timing: Most rates are based on midweek airfare; weekend travel can raise the price $100 or more each way. Be flexible. Singles: Rates are per person, for two people traveling together and sharing a room. The single supplement is the fee levied for going alone. Itinerary changes: You can often add nights: The extra-night rate is per person, double occupancy. Most operators will bundle excursions, meals, and tours for an additional cost. Research: Hotels will be clean and safe, offering the basics for a basic price. The lowest-priced ones may not be centrally located. As with any serious purchase, you should do some research. Many websites--TripAdvisor and Epinions, for example--post reviews of hotels and cruises. If you don't like what you see, upgrades to better hotels are almost always available. Airfare: Where flights are included, we list prices from several airports ("gateways"), but we don't have space to show them all. Operators may arrange connections from other airports, but don't assume they'll always give you the best rate. It might make more sense to book your flights using frequent-flier miles or a low-cost airline. Also, check to see how many connections you'll have to make. All-inclusives: All-inclusive resorts usually cover lodging, three meals daily, entertainment, and nonmotorized water sports. Some also include alcoholic drinks and gratuities. United States Florida Keys for $435 Air from New Orleans to Miami or Key West and three nights on Islamorada at the Cheeca Lodge & Spa, with a golf course, two pools, and a private beach. When: Monday--Thursday departures July 5--Sept. 30. Other Gateways: New York ($455), Kansas City ($465), Chicago ($479), L.A. ($555). Details: Extra nights $56. Single supplement $196. The resort is 72 miles south of Miami or 90 miles northeast of Key West; add a round-trip car rental starting at $128. Contact: Leisure Link International, 888/801-8808, eleisurelink.com. Los Angeles for $164 Southwest Airlines flights from Las Vegas, Phoenix, or Tucson, and two nights at Beverly Garland's Holiday Inn, with free shuttle service to Universal Studios Hollywood, one mile away. When: Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday departures July 2--Sept. 10. Other Gateways: Austin, Oklahoma City (from $284); Chicago, Philadelphia (from $314). Details: Extra nights from $45. Single supplement from $95. Contact: Southwest Airlines Vacations, 800/423-5683, swavacations.com. New Orleans for $260 American Airlines flights from Dallas and three nights at the Fairmont New Orleans, a block from the French Quarter. When: Monday--Thursday departures July 4--Sept. 5 ($260) and Sept. 6--Oct. 21 ($375). Other Gateways: L.A. ($383/$498); Chicago ($400/$515); Boston, New York ($409/$524). Details: Extra nights from $60. Single supplement from $105. Contact: AmericanAirlines Vacations, 800/321-2121, aavacations.com. Oahu for $570 Delta Airlines flights from L.A., transfers, and five nights at the Ohana Maile Sky Court, near the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center and within walking distance of Waikiki Beach. When: Daily departures until Nov. 11. Other Gateways: Denver ($801), New York ($830), Chicago ($845). Details: Extra nights $67. Single supplement from $199. Land-only price is $204 until Dec. 16. Contact: Pleasant Holidays, 800/448-3333, pleasantholidays.com. Palm Springs for $309 American Airlines flights from Chicago to Palm Springs and three nights at the Doral Desert Princess Resort, with a large pool, full spa, 10 tennis courts, and 27 holes of championship golf. When: Daily departures until Sept. 30. Other Gateways: Dallas ($328), Boston ($387), New York ($426). Details: Extra nights from $41. The rate for a single starts at $255 (single room). Contact: AmericanAirlines Vacations, 800/321-2121, aavacations.com. San Juan Islands for $899 Six days of sea kayaking in northwest Washington State, departing from Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. Includes eight to nine miles of paddling per day, five nights of camping, guides, meals, use of a double kayak, and camping gear (tents, cooking equipment; bring your own sleeping bag). When: July 17--22 and Aug. 21--26 ($999); July 31--Aug. 5 ($999, women only); Sept. 4--9 ($899). Details: Airfare is not included. Add $15 for the one-time REI membership fee. Single supplement $59. Contact: REI Adventures, 800/622-2236, reiadventures.com. Canada Banff for $688 Alaska Airlines flights from San Francisco or Seattle to Calgary, Rocky Mountain Sky Shuttle transfers to Banff (two hours away), and three nights at the Banff Caribou Lodge. When: Wednesday and Saturday departures until Sept. 30. Other Gateways: L.A. (from $753), New York (from $818), Orlando (from $927). Details: Extra nights from $104. Single supplement from $298. Contact: Alaska Airlines Vacations, 800/468-2248, alaskaair.com. Canada Cruise for $440 Four nights aboard the Carnival Triumph on a round-trip sailing from New York, with two full days at sea and a stop in Halifax, Nova Scotia. When: Aug. 18 and Sept. 1 ($440 inside cabin, $510 ocean view). Details: Price does not include port charges (add about $156) or airfare. Call for the single rate; it varies, but could be as high as 200 percent more. Contact: American Discount Cruises, 866/214-7447, americandiscountcruises.com. Maritime Canada for $1,366 A seven-night train and car trip that begins in Montreal, Quebec, and ends in Halifax, Nova Scotia. The package includes one night's hotel in Montreal and a tram tour of the city; an overnight on VIA Rail Canada's Ocean train to Moncton, New Brunswick (new Easterly service, with full dinner and breakfast; double bedrooms have bunk beds and an en suite washroom with toilet and sink); a six-day car rental; five nights' hotel (one each in Moncton, Digby, and Halifax, two in St. Andrews); and more. When: Daily departures until Oct. 7 (except Mondays). Details: This is a land-only price; add flights to Montreal, returning from Halifax, starting at $409 from Boston. Contact: Canada à la Carte, 877/977-6500, canadaalacarte.com. Mexico Cancún for $749 Air from Atlanta, Dallas, D.C., Miami, New York, or Philadelphia and seven nights at the beachfront Omni Cancún Hotel & Villas, with three pools, three restaurants, and a full spa. When: Monday--Thursday departures July 1--Sept. 30. Other Gateways: For the same price, you can depart from 34 cities, including Albany, Baltimore, Buffalo, Fort Myers, Hartford, Pittsburgh, Rochester, and Savannah. Add-ons are available from more than 100 other airports. Details: Extra nights $86. Single supplement $375. Contact: SkyAuction, skyauction.com/budgettraveljuly, book only over the Internet. Cozumel for $668 Air from Miami, transfers, and seven all-inclusive nights at the Casa del Mar Cozumel, with an outdoor restaurant, poolside bar, and a beach club within walking distance. When: July 1--Aug. 6 ($721), Aug. 7--Oct. 31 ($668). Other Gateways: New York (add $120), L.A. (add $129), Atlanta (add $149), Chicago (add $156). Details: Extra nights from $57. Single supplement from $388. Contact: Caradonna Dive Adventures, 800/328-2288, caradonna.com. Mexican Riviera Cruise for $649 Seven nights aboard the Carnival Pride on a round-trip sailing from L.A., with three full days at sea and stops in Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlán, and Cabo San Lucas. When: August 28 ($649 inside cabin, $799 ocean view, $949 balcony). Details: Prices include port charges but not airfare. Call for the single rate. Contact: GalaxSea Cruises and Tours, 800/662-5450, cruisestar.com. Caribbean Aruba for $818 American Airlines flights from Miami, transfers, and seven nights at the Talk of the Town Beach Club in Oranjestad. Just across the street from its own beach, the resort has a pool and a poolside bar and grill. Complimentary passes to a nearby health club are included. When: July 1--Oct. 10. Other Gateways: New York, Philadelphia (add $99); Atlanta, Charlotte (add $174); New Orleans (add $206). Details: Extra nights $58. Single supplement from $375. Contact: Caradonna Dive Adventures, 800/328-2288, caradonna.com. Dominican Republic for $609 American Airlines flights from Miami and five all-inclusive nights on Punta Cana's Bávaro Beach at the four-star LTI Beach Resort, with a pool, four restaurants, four bars, and a disco. When: July 7--Sept. 30. Other Gateways: New York, Philadelphia ($686); Baltimore, D.C. ($748). Details: Extra nights $56. Single supplement $116. Contact: Vacation Travel Mart, 800/288-1435, vacmart.com. Central America Costa Rica for $489 Air from Miami to San José and four all-inclusive nights at the beachfront Fiesta Resort and Casino, on the Pacific coast near Puntarenas. When: June 1--Sept. 30. Other Gateways: Dallas, New York (add from $175); L.A. (add from $199). Details: The resort is 90 minutes from the airport. Shuttle transfers cost $60 round trip; car rentals start at about $20 per day. Extra nights from $66. Single supplement from $180. Contact: Leisure Link International, 888/801-8808, eleisurelink.com. Guatemala for $727 American Airlines flights from Miami, transfers, five nights at the four-star Hotel Princess Reforma in Guatemala City, a full-day trip to Chichicastenango market and Lake Atitlán (with lunch), and a half-day tour of colonial Antigua. When: Thursday departures until Dec. 9, except July 1--Aug. 15 (add $60). Other Gateways: L.A. (add $50), New York (add $60), San Francisco (add $130), Seattle (add $230). Details: Extra nights $35. Single supplement $241. Add $60 to travel on other days of the week. Contact: Tara Tours, 800/327-0080, taratours.com. Nicaragua for $695 American Airlines flights from Miami to Managua, all transfers, and five nights' hotel. Spend two nights at the Hotel Los Balcones in León (home to the largest cathedral in Central America) and three nights at the Hotel Colonial in Granada, on Lake Nicaragua. When: Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday departures July 1--Aug. 31 ($749) and Sept. 1--Dec. 9 ($695). Other Gateways: Dallas ($786/$731); New York ($917/$862); Chicago ($983/$928); L.A., San Francisco ($973/$918); Seattle ($1,112/$1,057). Details: Extra nights from $29. Single supplement $202. Contact: Capricorn Leisure, 800/426-6544, capricorn.net. South America Buenos Aires & Rio for $879 Air from Miami to Buenos Aires (the return flight is from Rio), three nights in B.A. at the Embajador Hotel overlooking Avenida 9 de Julio, a half-day city tour, an onward flight to Rio, three nights at the Savoy Othon Hotel near Copacabana Beach, and breakfast daily. When: Until Aug. 4 ($1,079), Sept. 1--Dec. 9 ($879). Other Gateways: New York ($1,179/$899), L.A. ($1,404/$1,129). Details: Extra nights from $31. Single supplement from $210. Contact: FlySouthVacations.com, 800/234-5245, flysouthvacations.com. Chile for $839 Aerolíneas Argentinas flights from Miami, transfers, five nights in Santiago at Los Nogales Hotel (in the Providencia neighborhood) with breakfast daily, and a half-day city tour. When: Until Dec. 1. Other Gateways: New York (add $50). Details: Extra nights $39. Single supplement $190. Add a half-day winery tour for $55 or a full-day excursion to Viña del Mar and Valparaíso for $90. Contact: Escapes Unlimited, 800/243-7227, escapesltd.com. Peru for $999 LanPeru flights from Miami to Cuzco (via Lima), transfers, five nights at the Terra Andina Hotel with breakfast daily, one dinner, a half-day city tour, and a full-day guided excursion to Machu Picchu (train and lunch included). When: Daily departures July 1--Aug. 15 ($1,049) and Aug. 16--Dec. 9 ($999). Other Gateways: Atlanta, Denver, Orlando, San Francisco ($1,089/$1,039); L.A. ($1,129/$1,079); Boston, Philadelphia ($1,209/$1,159); New York ($1,229/$1,179). Details: Extra nights from $30. Single supplement $110. Contact: Marnella Tours, 866/993-0033, marnellatours.com. Europe A Splurge on Italy's Amalfi Coast for $2,299 With its craggy cliffs, sea-view trattorias, and bougainvillea-covered hotels, the dramatic peninsula south of Naples is the perfect setting for a romantic getaway. No wonder it's always been a favorite for honeymooners. With a full week and a car, you can explore at your own pace. Visit the ancient ruins of Pompeii, take a hydrofoil to the island of Ischia and soak in a thermal bath, catch an outdoor concert at Villa Rufolo in Ravello, hop a ferry to Capri and visit the Blue Grotto, and have a sundowner at the famous Il San Pietro hotel in Positano. TourCrafters has partnered with the Italian airline Eurofly to offer a package that'll have you traveling in style. It includes nonstop business-class flights from New York to Naples, a seven-day car rental, seven nights in Sorrento at a four-star hotel (your choice of either the Bellevue Syrene or the Villa Garden), and breakfast daily. When: Monday, Wednesday, and Friday departures until Aug. 31, except Aug. 17. Other Gateways: None. Details: Extra nights from $113. Sorry, no rate for singles. A similar package to Sicily costs $2,590. Contact: TourCrafters, 800/482-5995, tourcrafters.com. Austria for $899 Austrian Airlines flights from D.C. or New York to Innsbruck (via Vienna), three nights in Neustift (in the Alps; Hotel Bellevue or similar), two nights in your choice of either Innsbruck (Tourotel Breinossl) or Vienna (Atlantis Hotel), and breakfast daily. The package also includes private round-trip transfers from Innsbruck Airport to the Stubai Valley, and an onward flight from Innsbruck to Vienna, if you choose to spend your last two nights there. When: Until Aug. 31 ($1,109), Sept. 1--Oct. 15 ($899). Other Gateways: None. Details: Extra nights from $120. Single supplement $189. Contact: Austrian Airlines Vacation Center, 800/790-4682, austrianair-vacations.com. England for $779 Air from New York, a seven-day car rental, six nights of vouchers good at your choice of 400 B&Bs throughout the country, and breakfast daily. When: Until Aug. 31 ($979), Sept. 1--Oct. 31 ($779). Other Gateways: Boston ($1,009/$839); Chicago, Miami ($1,129/$959); Houston ($1,169/$979); Seattle ($1,199/$999); L.A. ($1,259/$979). Details: Extra days with car and voucher $70. Single supplement $110. Contact: EuropeASAP, 415/750-5449, europeasap.com. Istanbul for $679 Air from New York, transfers, and six nights at the Nazar Hotel (in the Laleli district) with breakfast daily. When: Until Aug. 25 ($949), Sept. 1--Oct. 31 ($679). Blacked out Aug. 19--22. Other Gateways: Philadelphia ($979/$709), Baltimore ($1,019/$729), Chicago ($1,099/$769), Miami ($1,129/$759), Denver ($1,189/$909), L.A. ($1,199/$859). Details: Extra nights from $18. Single supplement from $200. Contact: Go-today.com, 800/227-3235, go-today.com. Malta for $1,040 Virgin Atlantic and Air Malta flights from Boston, D.C., or New York to Malta (via London), transfers, six nights with breakfast daily at the waterfront four-star Kennedy Nova in Sliema. The hotel is near the city center, and has a rooftop pool overlooking Sliema Creek and the harbor. When: Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday departures July 4--27 ($1,216), Aug. 1--31 ($1,330), and Sept. 5--28 ($1,040). Other Gateways: Miami, Orlando ($1,287/$1,400/$1,135); L.A., San Francisco ($1,416/$1,530/$1,170). Details: Extra nights from $34. Single supplement $144. Add dinner daily for $120 total. Contact: Amelia International, 800/742-4591, ameliainternational.com. Mediterranean Cruise for $1,155 Ten days aboard Celebrity Cruises' Century on a round-trip sailing from Barcelona. The itinerary includes two full days at sea and stops in Marseille and Villefranche, France; Livorno and Civitavecchia, Italy; and Palma, Ibiza, and Valencia, Spain. When: Sept. 2 ($1,480 inside cabin/$1,790 ocean view) or Sept. 23 ($1,155/$1,525). Details: Prices do not include port charges and taxes ($215) or international airfare. Call for the single price. Contact: CruiseBrothers.com, 800/827-7779, cruisebrothers.com. Paris & Barcelona for $999 Air France flights from Boston or New York to Paris (the return is from Barcelona), three nights in Paris at the Comfort Hotel Lamarck Caulaincourt in Montmartre, an onward flight to Barcelona, three nights at the Expo Hotel near the Plaça d'Espanya, and breakfast daily. When: July 1--Aug. 31 ($1,199), Sept. 1--6 ($1,289), Sept. 7--Oct. 31 ($999). Other Gateways: Miami ($1,329/$1,419/$1,049), Chicago ($1,339/$1,429/$1,049), Houston ($1,379/$1,469/$1,099), L.A. ($1,449/$1,539/$1,379). Details: Extra nights from $41. Single supplement from $230. Contact: Air France Holidays, 800/237-2623, airfranceholidays.com. Africa & Middle East Cape Town & Kenya Safari for $2,005 South African Airways flights from Atlanta or New York to Cape Town (the return is from Nairobi, via Johannesburg); two nights in Cape Town at the City Lodge V&A Waterfront; an onward flight to Nairobi; one night each at the Nairobi Safari Club, the Samburu Game Lodge (Samburu Game Reserve), The Ark (Aberdare National Park), Lake Elementaita Lodge (Lake Nakuru); and two nights at the Mara Simba Lodge (Masai Mara Game Reserve). This 11-day, 8-night package includes all transfers, a half-day tour of Cape Town, breakfast daily in Cape Town and Nairobi, and all meals and activities while on safari. When: Thursday departures until Oct. 31. Other Gateways: Boston, Miami, Philadelphia (add $180); L.A. (add $260). Details: This is a discounted rate for BT readers (regular price is $2,239). Single supplement $250. Contact: South African Airways Holidays, 888/777-1138, saaholidays.net. Egypt for $999 EgyptAir flights from New York to Cairo; transfers; five nights at the deluxe Sheraton Royal Gardens Hotel in Giza with breakfast daily; and two half-day guided tours of the Pyramids and Sphinx, the Egyptian Museum, and the Khan el-Khalili Bazaar. When: Sunday departures until Aug. 7 ($1,274) and Aug. 14--Dec. 4 ($999). Other Gateways: None. Details: Single supplement $125. Add three nights on the Red Sea in the resort area of Sharm al-Sheikh for $400 (includes flights, transfers, hotel, and breakfast daily), or a three-night Nile cruise from Aswan to Luxor for $450 (includes flights, transfers, accommodations, meals, and shore excursions). Contact: Misr Travel, 800/223-4978, misrtravel.org. Morocco Tour for $1,099 Air from New York to Casablanca (the return flight is from Marrakech), transfers, local transportation by private bus, six nights' lodging with breakfast daily (one in Casablanca, two in Fez, and three in Marrakech), five dinners, all entrance fees, and guided sightseeing throughout. The itinerary includes visits to Casablanca, Rabat, Moulay Idriss, Fez, Meknès, Beni Mellal, and Marrakech. When: Sept. 3, 24 ($1,099); Oct. 8, 22, and Nov. 19 ($1,199). Other Gateways: D.C. (add $216), Boston (add $238), Chicago (add $260), L.A. (add $378). Details: Extra nights in Marrakech from $56. Single supplement from $251. Contact: Gate 1 Travel, 800/682-3333, gate1travel.com. Zambia for $3,399 South African Airways flights from Atlanta or New York to Johannesburg, all transfers and local flights, one night at the Grand Hotel near Johannesburg airport, and seven nights in Zambia's South Luangwa National Park (three nights at Mfuwe Lodge and four at Bushcamps), all game drives/walks and meals while on safari, and park entry fees. When: Until Aug. 20 ($4,199), Aug. 22--31 ($3,899), Sept. 1--30 ($3,399). Other Gateways: D.C., Miami (add $140); Chicago, St. Louis (add $180); L.A., Seattle (add $260). Details: Single supplement $575. Add three days at Victoria Falls for $799. Contact: Lion World Tours, 800/387-2706, lionworldtravel.com. Asia Visit Sri Lanka and Make a Real Difference for $2,195 The village of Ahangama, on the southern coast, had always been the final stop on Djoser's Sri Lanka tour. After two weeks of exploring the tea plantations and temples inland, travelers came to snorkel, relax on the beach, and marvel at the locals' unique skill of stilt fishing. But last year's tsunami devastated Ahangama, and Djoser has been forced to take its groups elsewhere--though it hasn't abandoned the town. With an initial donation of $4,000, it joined the "Bring Back to Life" program, a coalition of individuals and companies who have pledged to rebuild homes for 50 families. Participants in Djoser's trips to Sri Lanka can now make an active contribution themselves by extending their stay and helping in the cleanup and construction (Details: are on its website). The regular 18-day tour itinerary includes visits to the ancient cities of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, the tea plantations in Nuwara Eliya, the cultural center of Kandy, and the western beach town of Negombo. The price covers Singapore Airlines flights from L.A. to Colombo (via Singapore), transfers, transportation by private bus, 14 nights' lodging, and guided sightseeing throughout. When: July 1, Aug. 12 ($2,445); Sept. 2, Oct. 28, Nov. 25 ($2,195); Dec. 23 ($2,545). Other Gateways: New York (add $55). Details: Add roughly $225 per week for expenses. Single supplement $275. For every Sri Lanka trip booked in 2005, Djoser will donate $100 to the relief effort. Whether or not travelers participate in the Ahangama project, they're encouraged to bring items from home to give to local families, such as much-needed cookware, cups, and plates. Contact: Djoser, 877/356-7376, djoserusa.com. Bali for $829 Cathay Pacific flights from L.A. or San Francisco, transfers, five nights' hotel with breakfast daily, and a half-day temple tour. Spend five nights in one place or in a combination of three: Sanur Beach (Ari Putri Hotel), Kuta (Bakung Beach Cottages), and Ubud (Sri Bungalows). When: Until Aug. 15 ($1,029), Aug. 16--Dec. 9 ($829). Other Gateways: Portland, Seattle (add $50); New York (add $100); Denver, Salt Lake City (add $160); Dallas, New Orleans (add $280). Details: Extra nights $20. Single supplement $120. Add $50 to travel on the weekends. Free stopovers are available in Hong Kong. Contact: Escapes Unlimited, 800/243-7227, escapesltd.com. China Tour for $1,699 Air China flights from L.A., transfers and all local transportation, 10 nights of four- or five-star lodging (three in Beijing, two each in Xi'an, Suzhou, and Shanghai, and one in Hangzhou), all meals, fully guided sightseeing and entrance fees (including the Terra-Cotta Warriors and Horses, the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, and the Summer Palace), an acrobatic show in Beijing, and a cruise on the Grand Canal. When: Wednesday departures until Aug. 24 ($1,779) and Sept. 7--Nov. 2 ($1,699). Other Gateways: New York (add $100; nonstop Air China flights). Details: Extra nights from $120. Single supplement from $435. Contact: Champion Holidays, 800/868-7658, china-discovery.com. Hong Kong for $999 Cathay Pacific flights from L.A. or San Francisco, transfers, five nights at the Kowloon Hotel on the "Golden Mile" of Nathan Road, breakfast daily, and a half-day city tour. When: Until Aug. 15 ($1,299), Aug. 16--Sept. 14 ($999), Sept. 15--30 ($1,099). Other Gateways: Boston, Chicago, Dallas, Miami, Philadelphia (add $250--$300). Details: Extra nights from $100. Single supplement from $250. Add $100 for weekend travel. Add three nights in Beijing starting at $260 (includes air, transfers, hotel, and tours). Contact: Ritz Tours, 800/900-2446, ritztours.com. Japan for $1,250 Singapore Airlines flights from L.A. to Tokyo; arrival transfer; three nights at the Sunshine City Prince Hotel in Tokyo's Ikebukuru neighborhood; breakfast daily; a half-day city tour; and a seven-day Japan Rail Pass (valid on railways, bus lines, and ferries), which allows you to explore the rest of Japan on your own. When: Until Aug. 20 ($1,498), Aug. 21--Dec. 5 ($1,250). Other Gateways: San Francisco (add $75); Denver, Las Vegas, Seattle (add $165); Dallas, Oklahoma City (add $285); Albany, Boston, Chicago, D.C., Minneapolis, New York (add $355); Atlanta, Miami, New Orleans, Richmond (add $400). Details: Extra nights from $180 (per room) in Tokyo. Single supplement from $441. Upgrade to the Century Hyatt Tokyo in Shinjuku for $100 more. The Japan Rail Pass is valid on all Shinkansen (bullet trains) except Nozomi. Add $190 for a 14-day pass; $335 for 21 days. Contact: Globotours, 800/988-4833, globotours.net. South Pacific Bora-Bora for $2,495 Air Tahiti Nui flights from New York to Papeete (new nonstop service), transfers and interisland flights, welcome and farewell leis, one night in an ocean-view room at the Radisson Plaza Resort Tahiti in Arue, and five nights in a garden bungalow at the Lagoon Resort and Spa on Bora-Bora. When: Monday and Thursday departures July 4--Oct. 31. Add $85 for Saturday departures. Other Gateways: The regular L.A. departures are $200 less. Details: Call for the extra-night price. Single supplement $930. Upgrade to an over-water bungalow for $1,560 more. Contact: Swain Tours, 800/227-9246, swaintours.com/nytahiti. Moorea for $1,289 Air New Zealand flights from L.A. to Papeete, Tahiti; round-trip interisland ferry to Moorea; and seven nights in a bay-view room at the Club Bali Hai, a beachfront resort on Cook's Bay. When: Until Aug. 22 ($1,419), Aug. 23--Sept. 5 ($1,289). Other Gateways: None. Details: Extra nights from $58. Single supplement from $410. Upgrade to a beach bungalow for $235 more, over-water bungalow $500 more. Contact: Tahiti Legends, 800/200-1213, tahitilegends.com. Australia Sydney for $999 Air from L.A. or San Francisco and five nights with breakfast daily at the Southern Cross Suites in central Sydney, near Hyde Park and the Australian Museum. When: Until July 31 ($1,449), Aug. 1--Sept. 9 ($999), Sept. 10--15 ($1,249), Sept. 16--Dec. 2 ($1,599). Other Gateways: Seattle (add $146); Denver (add $194); Chicago (add $241); Atlanta, Boston, Miami, New York (add $288). Details: Extra nights from $59. Single supplement from $251. Add a full-day wine-tasting excursion with lunch for $109. Contact: Gate 1 Travel, 800/682-3333, gate1travel.com. New Zealand New Zealand for $1,389 Air New Zealand flights from L.A. to Christchurch (the return flight is from Auckland); a 13-day Spirit 2 camper-van rental (with two berths and a kitchenette); and tickets for the ferry crossing between Picton, on the South Island, and Wellington, on the North Island. When: Until Aug. 26 ($1,389), Aug. 27--Sept. 16 ($1,499), Sept. 17--Oct. 17 ($1,699). Other Gateways: San Francisco (add $125); Las Vegas, San Diego (add $135); Seattle (add $275). Details: Extra days with the camper-van start at $53. Single supplement from $260. Upgrade to a Spirit 2 Deluxe camper-van (it also has a toilet and shower) for $91 more. Contact: ATS Tours, 800/423-2880, atstours.com. Reader report Traci Powell of Las Vegas reminds us that sometimes the smallest decisions in life bring the biggest rewards. Last April, on a whim, I bought a copy of Budget Travel for the first time. Scanning the 40 Best, I found a Sunspots trip to Fiji for $994 and booked it immediately. I'm a foster care social worker, and with such a high-stress job, I really needed a place to relax by myself for a week. My last day in Nadi, I decided to take a day trip to Malamala Island. On the boat, I met Alex, the cruise supervisor, who was born and raised in Levuka, on Ovalau (coincidentally, one of the "10 Great Islands You've Never Heard Of" in your May 2005 issue). The moment I saw him, I knew it was meant to be. We hung out for most of the trip, and by the end, I knew I wanted to spend more time with him. I skipped my flight home and stayed in Fiji four more days. After I returned to Vegas, Alex and I talked every day, racking up $100 a week in phone bills. I went back to see him in July and again in September. We were married in Nadi on September 3, 2004. I've now been back and forth a total of eight times. Alex is moving to the U.S. this month, and Fiji will be our favorite vacation spot. As for BT, we now have a subscription. Vinaka (thanks) for helping to bring us together!

Family

Make Everyone Happy And Take The Family Reunion On Location

Kris Zahrobsky, a 25-year-old firefighter from the Chicago suburb of Berwyn, Ill., is a member of the Feelys, a family based mostly in the Midwest that for generations has tried to keep in touch and get together every other year or so. When Kris was growing up, the reunions were simple affairs, maybe in someone's backyard or at a state park. There wasn't a whole lot to do besides catch up, eat, and pose for pictures. "It was great to see all the relatives," says Kris, "but I remember being bored out of my mind." For the 2005 reunion, Kris proposed a different kind of get-together--a weekend in the Wisconsin Dells, a destination that overflows with family resorts and water parks. "The Dells was my first choice," says Kris. "In the same building, the kids can go to the water park while the parents sit and relax." The Feelys decided to base the reunion at the Kalahari Resort, which has indoor and outdoor water parks, a banquet hall that can host a big family dinner, and all sorts of rooms and suites. Last fall, Kris even set up a website to post family news and a reunion itinerary, including times for group boat tours, casual gatherings in a hospitality room, and a mass on Sunday morning. The Feelys are expecting this summer's gathering to be the best turnout in years: around 200 people from 18 states, with some members of the extended family who haven't attended a reunion since the 1970s. If you expect people to devote vacation time and endure hours of travel, the least you can do is make the reunion fun. Rather than the traditional backyard barbecue or potluck in someone's crowded living room, more and more families are going on cruises, renting a few beach houses, or heading to all-inclusive resorts. Planning a big reunion is difficult enough. Add in coordinating a vacation that jibes with everyone's budget, schedule, and desires, and the job becomes nearly impossible. Age-old rivalries and differences don't help either. "You find out how dysfunctional your family is when planning a reunion," says Stacey Hopkins of Atlanta, Ga., whose family reunion of 150 to 200 people takes place every other year, usually somewhere in the eastern U.S. "Our family has a lot of alpha females, and it's not pretty when people don't agree. The experience can be traumatic." From the planning stages to exchanging pictures after the trip's over, everyone involved should try to be flexible and keep things pleasant. "Don't talk about religion, politics, and child rearing," says Laurence Basirico, author of The Family Reunion Survival Guide. "Not if you expect everybody to have a good time, anyway." There are many ways to make the experience as painless--and as fun--as possible, and we've done some of the homework for you. The consensus is that you should begin planning a reunion at least a year in advance, to allow time for deciding where to go and when, to give everyone ample warning for taking off work, and to make sure rooms will be available. If you've got a reasonably big group--over 20, say--lodging reservations should be made eight or more months ahead. Memorial Day to Labor Day is prime family reunion season because kids are out of school. The Christmas break is also popular, but prices are sky-high and many people have traditions they like to keep at home, as well as commitments to the other side of the family. It's usually clear who'll be the reunion ringleaders--the same crew of matriarchs (and sometimes patriarchs) who host Thanksgiving dinners and send cards to everyone on their birthdays. "Somebody's gotta take charge, but no one should do it alone," says Basirico. "When things get going, have a travel agent serve as a neutral third party." People won't be offended when an agent says there's a deadline for deposits (and it's handy to have an outsider to blame should things go wrong). After a few casual conversations indicate that there's a fair amount of interest, one of the ringleaders should send out a group e-mail. To keep the conversation from literally going all over the map, offer roughly three possibilities. List a few pros and cons for each, as well as ballpark costs. To avoid any confusion, specify up front who will have to pay for what. Some people will want to go camping while others will lean toward five-star resorts, so compromise is essential. Organizers of the Feely reunion in Wisconsin Dells knew that not everyone wanted to pay over $100 a night at the Kalahari Resort, so they provided booking details for a nearby campground. Have each family pick a leader to voice its concerns and, if necessary, put the decision on where to go to a vote. Don't get hung up if someone doesn't want to go or cancels at the last minute. Carry on with the people who want to be there. Figuring out food and activities on a vacation can cause anxiety for a couple, let alone for a group of 50. That's why cruises and all-inclusive resorts are naturals for reunions. They provide home bases for fun and relaxation, and you always know where meals will be. "Cruise reservations are no-nonsense: X tables at X times," says Kathy Sudeikis, president of the American Society of Travel Agents. "Anywhere else, when you have to do dinner for a big group, it's like moving the Fifth Army." Some families prefer a place that's within driving distance of a majority of the attendees. A beach, mountain retreat, or small town can do the trick--but planners should be sensitive to anyone traveling a long way. No one wants to drive five hours after a six-hour flight. The reunion shouldn't be held in anyone's backyard either, because whoever's local might wind up bearing the burden of playing host and tour guide. Every traditional vacation spot in the U.S. has a convention and visitors bureau (CVB), and you should put these organizations to work for you. Contact the CVBs of your top choices and tell them how big your group is and what you're interested in doing. They'll pass along your info to hotels, resorts, car-rental agencies, restaurants, and attractions--who in turn will send you offers, coupons, and brochures catered to your needs. Hotels and resorts are willing to give perks to big groups, whether it's a corporate retreat, a business conference, or a family reunion. "Put the ball in the venue's court and ask what dates can get you the most value," says Jonathan Miller, former president of the National Association of Reunion Managers (reunions.com). "Leverage the size of your group in terms of how much business you're bringing to the hotel." If you're not staying in an all-inclusive, it's probably worth it to pay a little extra for rooms with kitchens--or ask that the hotel provide them at no additional charge--because you don't want to run to a restaurant every time a child is hungry for a snack. As for activities, the idea is to reunite and be with each other, but people will get burned out if things are too regimented. Give everyone ample free time. There's no need to eat every meal together. "More and more, people are saying lunch is on your own," says Laurie Van Horn, of the YMCA of the Rockies in Colorado, which hosts more than 800 reunions a year. "It usually works well when there's one planned activity a day to bring everyone together, maybe team building on the high ropes course or a hayride." Always bear in mind that the reason for the trip is equal parts family and vacation, and that people will want to take it easy. Besides, if you allow things to happen naturally, the bonds created will be all the more meaningful. Tips for a better reunion Make a family tree to be displayed at the reunion. Bring albums filled with old family photos. Host a "lack of talent" show with singing and dancing. Have a family trivia game (When did the family's first ancestor reach the U.S.?) and give out prizes. The kids will love it if you bring walkie-talkies--and you'll love using them to keep track of the kids. On a cruise, arrange for the head of the family to get a suite, which can double as a group gathering place. Have kids make name tags with crayons and stickers. Skip Christmas presents among extended family for a few years and use the money saved on the vacation. Walt Disney World Orlando's WDW has been an iconic family vacation for so long that it's possible for three generations to have memories of it as a special place. "It's great if you want to do the rides or just sit around the pool and catch up," says Judy Russell, of central New Jersey, who vacationed at WDW last summer with her seven siblings and their families. "You can even party at night if that's your thing." Groups of eight or more people staying at a WDW property can sign up for Disney's Magical Gatherings, a program that opens up options not available to smaller groups or day-trippers--say, an evening cruise capped by a fireworks show, or a special dinner and safari at Animal Kingdom. Groups that fill 10 or more rooms are automatically directed to a special sales office that arranges discounts of 10 percent to 35 percent and other perks. With the events offered through Magical Gatherings, you'll most likely be in the company of other small groups. But if you hit the 10-room mark, dinners and special events can be private. Also, while Magical Gatherings are limited to a handful of activities and programs, the sky is the limit with larger groups. Disney lets you throw parties in cool places like the underwater VIP room at EPCOT's the Living Seas. Or you can rent out an entire attraction for a private dinner--after the giant boulder chases Indiana Jones across the stage at Disney-MGM Studios, your group is invited onstage for dinner, and the rest of the show is performed right around the tables. Prices for special group events are negotiated, and they fluctuate depending on season and demand, but dinners cost around $50 and up a person, dessert parties start at $30, and character breakfasts (with Mickey, Goofy, Donald, or others in attendance) begin at $11 for kids 3 to 11, $18 for adults. 407/934-7639, disneyworld.com/magicalgatherings. Cruises Today's big-ship cruises have something for everyone, from black-tie dining to Ping-Pong tournaments. It's also the easiest reunion to plan. Seating everyone together for all meals is no problem, though just doing a group dinner daily is usually enough. Ships arrange special events, sometimes for free--private cocktail hours, photo sessions, and more. And they all give a discount: The standard tends to be one person free for every eight cabins. "The biggest mistake is ending up on the wrong ship," says Rick White, of White Travel, a cruise specialist in West Hartford, Conn. "If you're couch potatoes, you want an easygoing destination, like the Caribbean. If everyone's active, think about Alaska or maybe Europe." Summer is family cruising season, so it's unlikely you'll be overwhelmed with senior citizens or singles looking to party, but ask your travel agent about the ship's atmosphere regardless. (For that matter, ask your agent about everything. Travel agents book nearly all cruises, and they should know the ships.) Three- or four-night sailings are popular because they cost less in terms of money and vacation time than the standard weeklong cruise. All cruise lines are accustomed to handling groups, though a few have particularly attractive selling points for big families. Carnival Cruise Lines includes "fun points" that groups can use for a private cocktail party, poker chips, or photo sessions with a pro. Through its Royal Reunions program, Royal Caribbean arranges onboard scavenger hunts and trivia contests for groups--and the ships have rock-climbing walls, ice-skating rinks, and teen-only nightclubs. Groups on Holland America ships score extras such as unlimited soft drinks and free snorkel gear. Family favorites on Princess Cruises include movies on a 300-square-foot screen by the pool, as well as a 24-hour buffet.

True Stories

This month's winner is Sydney Rogers of Mount Pleasant, S.C. Her prize: A nine-day safari in Kenya courtesy of 2Afrika. Backpacking in Honduras, my fiancé, Ben, and I opted to take the train instead of a bus. To our dismay, it turned out to be a stuffy, dirty, and windowless livestock train. We arrived in Tela desperate to bathe. Our hotel advertised private showers, and our room did indeed have a shower--but the only running water was a slow trickle from the sink. We filled our empty water bottles, laughing hysterically as we rinsed ourselves in our "private shower." It was the best one we'd had in weeks! Win a 17-Day Trip to Thailand If your response is the best we receive before June 30, you'll win a 17-day trip to Thailand courtesy of Djoser. The prize includes round-trip airfare for one from New York or L. A. to Bangkok; accommodations in hotels, beach cabanas, and sleeper trains; airport transfers; and a guide. Valid for departures until June 1, 2006. Blackout dates apply. If 2006 prices increase, winner must pay the difference. Trips booked in high or shoulder seasons (June, July, August, December) will incur additional costs. Subject to availability, nontransferable, nonnegotiable. For more information on Djoser: 877/356-7376, djoserusa.com. How to enter: TrueStories@BudgetTravelOnline.com or True Stories, Budget Travel, 530 Seventh Ave., 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10018. Guidelines are at BudgetTravelOnline.com. Sorry, we can't return photos. Bear in mind that his left hand was pointing the wrong way While hiking in Mexico's Baja peninsula, my girlfriend and I got lost. Christ! I said to myself. Where's the car? Reaching the top of the hill, we were amazed to behold a sight that made my earlier exclamation strangely prophetic--a giant statue of Jesus. And his right hand was pointing directly to our car. --Gene Pembroke, Lester, Pa. Now please slap your knee I'd always been told that the Japanese were unfailingly polite, and on my first business trip to Osaka, I found it to be true. I was giving a lecture, and because Japanese audiences are traditionally quiet, I was trying a little tongue-in-cheek humor. They seemed to heartily appreciate it. "They're understanding my humor, right?" I asked the interpreter. "Oh yes, Rick-san," she replied. "I always tell them, 'Is American joke. Please laugh.' " --Rick Tillman, Tualatin, Ore. Rigorously translated, it means "Aussie Filthpot" In Zanzibar, my husband and I took a spice farm tour with our Australian travel mate, Mac. The locals had been pointing and laughing at him all day, so finally he asked a worker what was so funny. "Your shirt!" she said. Mac had ruined a shirt while on safari, so he'd bought a new one at the market. It turns out that the Swahili word on the shirt, mzungu, loosely translates as "white boy tourist."--Denise Jones, Issaquah, Wash. Fresh is good, right? My wife and I couldn't help noticing how everyone in New Delhi was enjoying iced fruit drinks. It was brutally hot, and even though we knew the ice was suspect, we broke down and ordered a mango drink. We started drinking on the spot. Suddenly, there was a commotion a few stalls away-a boy was screaming at a cow. He bent down and picked up his bike, which the cow had knocked over. He then knelt down and grabbed a block of ice from a pile of fresh cow manure. He wiped it down with his hands, strapped it to his bike, and delivered it to our vendor. --Alfie Blanch, Pasadena, Calif. Then there are the ones you can't see Thirty-five years after serving in Vietnam, I returned to visit the places I used to patrol. One day, overlooking the Cambodian border, I heard a noise on the trail leading to the road. All of a sudden, out popped this woman smuggling cigarettes across the border. It was the best laugh of the day. --Tom Layman, Petersburg, Mich.