Naples's city center cleans up its act

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At times Naples has seemed like a hard city to love, with a reputation for vice, unemployment, and garbage. Over at the New York Times, Michael Kimmelman files an update from the center, where the "loveliness" is now impossible to overlook. Still, the city as a whole remains in a "funk," and it's not at all clear that the pristine beauty of the city center is something that will spread through other, less-touristy parts.

The city's Madre Museum, devoted to contemporary art and partially housed inside a "glorious," consecrated church, recently tried to turn the garbage stereotype on its ear: to accompany an exhibit, it put together an ad campaign that used works that were partially composed of trash.

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