Readers' Sunset Photos

Meet the giraffesWithout sacrificing its estate-in-the-country dignity—or all of it, anyway—Giraffe Manor in Langata, Kenya, is arranged so that roaming giraffes can poke their heads into any open window or doorway with impunity and lather guests with their sticky, prehensile tongues. Your guesthouse is their guesthouse, so the silly creatures pop up everywhere, including over the breakfast table, in the lobby, and through the curtains of the five guest rooms for adults. Regrettably, as of this writing, the U.S. government had issued a travel warning for Kenya. For the latest info, visit the State Department website. 011-254/20-890-948, off-hours: 011-254/20-891-078, giraffemanor.com.Photos of Giraffe Manor 1 of 2 The open-sewer experienceArtist Andreas Strauss designed Das Park Hotel to be an elegant exercise in simplicity and recycling: It consists of three unadorned, 10-ton segments of drainage pipe, each 6.5 feet in diameter and barely long enough to accommodate a double bed. Strauss punched the pipes with skylights, added doors with electronic locks, and then laid the trio artfully in the grass by the Danube River, in Ottensheim, Austria. Amenities are skimpy, as you might expect: You get a lamp, a mattress, and a few sleeping bags. On the positive side, the hotel has no fixed rates. You leave whatever amount you think is fair. dasparkhotel.net, reservations online only.Photos of Das Park Hotel 1 of 1 Hang out like a TeamsterFor savoring the windswept Dutch landscape, nothing will lift you higher than the Harbour Crane, which for almost 30 years toiled at unloading timber at Harlingen, a port city an hour outside of Amsterdam, Netherlands. Since 2003, the massive crane has housed a luxury hotel room for two, roughly 60 feet above the harbor docks. Don't expect to sleep in an oily industrial hutch—the hotel's lighting system is touch-screen operated, the chairs are Eames Lounges, and the spindle of structural steel around you has a certain sculptural elegance. But the big payoff: You and your guest can jump into the cockpit and seize the controls, swinging the 143,000-pound crane a full 360 degrees. 011-31/517-414-410, vuurtoren-harlingen.nl.Photos of Harbour Crane 1 of 3 Gone to the dogsAfter years of selling dog sculptures that they chainsawed out of wood, Dennis Sullivan and Frances Conklin sank their considerable profits into constructing Dog Bark Park Inn, a two-story, beagle-shaped B&B in Cottonwood, Idaho. Guests enter the structure from the deck that lines one side of the pup's rib cage. The main quarters are in the belly of the beast; the sleeping loft is in the pooch's head. And, yes, pets are allowed. 208/962-3647, dogbarkparkinn.com, open April through October.Photos of Dog Bark Park Inn 1 of 2 A trailer with a viewHotel Everland is a one-room portable inn created by Switzerland-based installation artists Sabina Lang and Daniel Baumann. It's mobile, like a trailer home, but it's fancy, too, with pastel walls that swirl and swoop. The artists are moving the inn around Europe; through 2008, it will reside in Paris on the rooftop of the Palais de Tokyo museum, with its heart-swelling views of the Seine, 100 feet below, and the Eiffel Tower, in the near distance. Unfortunately, Hotel Everland becomes a contemporary art exhibit by day. So you can only stay for one night, and you have to be cleared out before the museum opens for business—or risk becoming part of the exhibit yourself. everland.ch, reservations online only.Photos of Hotel Everland 1of 3 Take this hotel for a spinThose of us who miss the Carter administration-era craze for revolving rooftop cocktail lounges will no doubt be pleased to learn that in certain parts of Turkey, it's still 1977. In sunny Antalya, Turkey's version of Miami Beach, you'll find the world's first hotel that has a rotating annex: the Marmara Antalya. Two dozen of the hotel's rooms are built atop a foundation that spins, completing a full rotation every seven hours; guests are rewarded with shifting views of the Mediterranean Sea. 011-90/242-249-3600, themarmarahotels.com.Photos of Marmara Antalya 1 of 2 Hobbit habitats for humanityIf you queued up for Peter Jackson's Lord of the Rings movie trilogy, you'd probably feel right at home in the Hobbit Motel, in Otorohanga, New Zealand. The motel's two hillside burrows are faithful replicas of the fictional hobbit dwellings—right down to the circular windows and doorways, red-and-beige walls, and camouflaged exteriors. The real-life rooms are scaled to human proportions, though, so actual hobbits might find them disagreeable. The Hobbit Motel is only one part of Woodlyn Park, a bizarre collection of lodgings that includes a 1950s railway car, a dry-docked patrol boat, and a grounded airplane from the Vietnam War. As if that weren't eccentric enough, the complex caters to visitors of the nearby Waitomo Caves, where the star attraction is a colony of glowworms. 011-64/7-878-6666, woodlynpark.co.nz.Photos of Hobbit Motel 1 of 2 Up a treeHuman beings spent millions of years evolving to the point where they wouldn't have to sleep in the trees. That job done, there's just one direction for them to go: back up. The owners of Out 'n' About Treesort & Treehouse Institute just outside of Cave Junction, Ore., fought nervous zoning authorities to permit the construction of their 18 unorthodox treehouses—some enclosed, some open to the bugs, and some perched in oaks and Douglas firs more than 35 feet above the ground. The Swiss Family unit, for instance, is connected by a suspension bridge to a special kids' area. The Treeloon unit looks like an Old West saloon, complete with swinging doors. And the Cavaltree, a duplex in the branches, feels like a pioneer fort. Most of the rooms are equipped with modern conveniences, like sinks and refrigerators, but bathrooms are in a cabin on the ground. Given all the spiral staircases at the 36-acre complex, you have to pity the chambermaids. 541/592-2208, treehouses.com.Photos of Out 'n' About Treesort & Treehouse Institute 1 of 2 Pioneer wagons get an upgradeIn Christchurch, New Zealand, the two-year-old Wagon Stays company has come up with a marketing slogan for its tricked-out, ecofriendly, mock Conestogas: "Where luxury meets history." The settlers of New Zealand would have considered themselves lucky to bunk down in these bad boys, which feature queen-size beds, computer-controlled showers, flush toilets, fully equipped kitchens, and satellite TV. The carriages also have glass doors that open onto balconies, which are perfect for kicking back with a pint of ale after a long day of going absolutely nowhere. 011-64/3-322-8277, wagonstays.co.nz.Photos of Wagon Stays 1 of 3 >> See all 20 hotel photos

Robert Reid: Hi there. This is Robert Reid talking from chilly Brooklyn, NY—way too far from Vietnam! It looks like there are a lot of questions, and I'll try to answer as many as I can! OK, let's get started! _______________________ Lincolnshire, Ill.: What is the best way, in your opinion, to get from Hanoi to HCM City or vice-versa? How much time does that option take and how much does it cost? Robert Reid: Are you planning on stopping off on places on the way? Such as Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue? Many people like the "open bus," which is $25 for the full trip between Hanoi and Saigon. It allows free stop-offs, but would take something like 40-45 hours if done straight. I usually do some shorter leg flights, such as Hanoi-Hue ($57 one way) or Hanoi-Danang, near Hoi An ($57 one way), Hanoi-Saigon ($105, or $65 on Pacific Airlines). _______________________ Ann Arbor, Mich.: Is Vietnam an appropriate destination for families with young (age 5-6) children? If so, what locations/activities would be of interest? Robert Reid: I've met a lot of people traveling with kids across Vietnam and having a great time. People love kids there, so they'll get some adoration. There's lots of interesting things to see: Hanoi has a water-puppet show, Saigon has a water park. The most walking-friendly place is Hoi An, where you'll feel comfortable walking around the center. Otherwise I'd imagine kids will enjoy a cyclo ride (one adult/one kid can fit on one). A ride around Hanoi's "36 Streets" area is fun, and a bit safer than walking (lots of foot/pedal/motorbike traffic). You can see gibbons and monkeys close up at Cuc Phuong National Park (south of Hanoi). Bigger resorts have kid-oriented activities. Nha Trang's Sofitel Vinpearl Resort is a bit cheesy to my tastes, but it's an island resort you can get to on cable cars, there's an amusement park (near hotel), a HUGE kid's pool and a private beach. Congrats on the win over Ohio State the other day by the way! _______________________ San Francisco, Calif.: Do you have any suggestions for books to read about Vietnam that AREN'T about the Vietnam war? Robert Reid: Many of the Vietnam travel lit guides came out after Vietnam 'opened' in the mid 1990s, a whole flurry of them. I think something fresh and new of traveling thru the booming 'little tiger' south of China's 'big tiger' is waayy overdue. I probably like Vietnam, Now by David Lamb the most. He reported from VN in the '90s and gives a lot of cultural insight. But Catfish & Mandala by Andrew Pham is popular, written by Vietnamese American going back to former home on bike. For Vietnamese lit, predictably most that gets translated is war-related, like Bao Ninh's Sorrow of War, which I did enjoy. Others I enjoyed less. But I REALLY LOVE the Vietnamese book from the early 20s called Dumb Luck by Vu Trong Phuong. It's rather slapstick, like a Charlie Chaplin character in the streets of Hanoi. _______________________ Eugene, Ore. : We are traveling with a group and will be in Hoian March 10 and would like to take a participation or hands on cooking class. Do you have a recommendation? —Sharon Robert Reid: Hi, Sharon. Nothing beats Vietnamese food. Red Bridge (or Cau Do) is a great place for cooking classes in Hoi An. They have two sessions a day, leaving from the center by boat to a riverside spot towards the beach. It's about $15 per person and you learn to make several dishes, then try it afterward. You should reserve spots, particularly if with a big group, as soon as you arrive. It often fills. Go by Hai Scout Café (98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St) in the center, or call 0510-933-222. I was there with my wife last summer, but too lazy to do classes—she went in the morning, and I joined them later on and shared the spoils of their time in the kitchen! _______________________ San Francisco, Calif.: Any tips or advice for a single female traveler going to Vietnam? Robert Reid: In terms of personal safety, Vietnam, like most of Southeast Asia, has about the safest rep for women, solo (or any) travelers. I've not met any women travelers who've had the sort of problems that can happen in places like Indonesia or India. The best advice is keep any flashy necklaces or rings at home, and don't dress up any skimpy clothes. Loose bags sometimes get grabbed from men and women. Some Asian women who travel with white men occasionally get nasty comments (in Vietnamese), usually from cyclo drivers and the like. Otherwise, you'll find it's easy to meet up with fellow travelers to go around with. _______________________ Argentan, France: I'm an American living in France and wish to travel to SouthEast Asia alone next winter starting first in Bangkok and overlanding north and then through Laos and over to North Vietnam and completing a large circle through Cambodia back to Bangkok. I'm planning a month to six weeks. Do you have specific recommendations on stops and durations? What are the best ways to get below the surface of Vietnam, where to you go, who do you try to talk to? With the above question in mind, what can a traveler do in a small village in order to experience below the surface? Robert Reid: Hi there. Do you have a month to six weeks for the whole trip or just Vietnam? It's actually quite easy to get under the surface in Vietnam. Even if you are just seeing usual places. The key is just doing things on your own and not taking the (convenient, ever present) group tours available. From Sapa, motorbike and overnight in Bac Ha, where some people go for the Sunday market—there are village markets nearby on other days, and guides that will take you on treks to villages that see little to no foreigners. Instead of taking a cruise to Halong Bay, take a bus to Haiphong (an interesting, historic port town) and ferry to Cat Ba Island, in south Halong Bay. You can bike to north Vietnamese cave hospitals, camp on beach you have to hike to, and arrange private kayaking tours. And I just LOVE going around the Mekong Delta on my own—i.e. not taking a tour. Etc. As far as where to go, nearly everyone hugs the coast heading south... the alternate route through the Central Highlands (Pleiku, Kontum, Buon Ma Thuot) will get you off the beaten track too... A lot to say! Hope this helps. _______________________ Salem, Conn.: How is the night life in Ho Chi Minh City? Is it anything like Thailand? Are the beaches touristy or sedate. Thanks. Robert Reid: Saigon has some of the country's best nightlife, though I doubt you're going to find anything rivaling Thailand's... Thailand tends to win the beach debates, but I have a soft spot for some of Vietnam's farther-flung ones... The remote beaches of Phu Quoc island were isolated when I was there a year ago... The beach near Quang Ngai, a couple hours south of Hoi An, is a gold-sand beach with open-air fish restaurants catering to locals... and people are starting to make dive trips to Con Dao Islands, which was once a prison island off the south coast... _______________________ Chico, Calif.: What is the best time of the year to travel in Vietnam? (Consider: Rain; temperature, humidity, heat, etc.) Robert Reid: Vietnam is a tall, skinny place, with differing rainy seasons and temperatures depending where you are. October is great in Saigon, but rainy in Hue! In general, I say that March/April or Sept/Oct are the best times to go. It's not too hot, too wet or too busy. Also note that more and more Vietnamese people are traveling around their country these days, and you may find it hard getting space on a bus or plane during times like Tet (VN New Year, just past) or summer (July and August). _______________________ Bangkok, Thailand: We are 3 women friends traveling to Hanoi from May 7th for 2 nights. We are looking for affordable accomodation a short walk to shopping for art and Vietnamese handicrafts. We would like rooms that are clean and quiet, preferably with air conditioning (if you think we need it for this time of year). We've looked at guidebooks, but it seems like there's not many places that meet all these requirements. Any suggestions? Robert Reid: I like Church Hotel. It's on a street of boutiques next to a lovely church, about a block from the Hoan Kiem lake, and two blocks from many galleries. It's small but nice rooms with wood floors, blasting AC and a bit more style than you get at the bright-tile and fluorescent-bulb guesthouses around the center. I stayed there for half my two-week visit to Hanoi last year. Rooms start at $40. _______________________ Las Vegas, Nev.: I am Contemplating going to Vietnam next Feb or March with Ritz Tours. Is this a good time to go and do you recommend this tour company? Robert Reid: Feb and March can be cold up north, so it's not the ideal time to trek in Sapa or cruise around Halong Bay. But that doesn't mean it couldn't be enjoyed. I tend to not be overly afraid of the weather in Vietnam. In fact, I think the monsoon is a great time to be there... hours of cloudless skies, then suddenly torrents of clothes-soaking rains, then clear again... Of course, there are times when that rain doesn't stop and cities flood. That isn't fun. I don't know Ritz, sorry. _______________________ Philadelphia, Pa.: I am visiting Vietnam in April for 8 days. My boyfriend is there teaching English in Saigon. We have not laid out an itinerary yet and I was hoping for a suggestion for this time frame. Ideas include seeing some of Saigon, Hanoi, Halong Bay , Hoi An or Nha Trang, or possibly Phu Quoc. Basically, Saigon and Hanoi are set and the other options are what's variable. Robert Reid: Your boyfriend may have a lot to show you in Saigon, but here's how I might carve up the time. Plan on two days in Saigon and two days in Hanoi. That leaves four days to play around with. I'd fly to Danang and spend two days in Hoi An, perhaps taking a snorkel tour and sitting on the beach there. From there you can fly to Hanoi. That leaves two more days. Pick something between a two-day Halong Bay cruise from Hanoi, or two days in Hue (north of Hoi An, then fly from Hue to Hanoi), OR two days in the Mekong Delta from Saigon. Or, like you said, you could fly to Phu Quoc from Saigon too. In all, a bit rushed but it could work! _______________________ Madison, Wisc.: Are any steps being taken to protect travelers from rip-offs in the current rapid growth economy? Recent trip in November, 2007 with 4 experienced travelers. Hanoi cab driver scams, train platform "escorts," hotel passed credit card no. and illegally billed me through a third party business in Zurich, etc., etc. Otherwise loved the country! Robert Reid: That sounds horrible. I'm sorry. I am happy that you still saw the good in Vietnam despite the the crimes of a few. A few things on this: Some people get ripped off by cab drivers in Hanoi—particularly from the airport. When I need a hotel anywhere (even outside Vietnam), I tend to go to a hotel or restaurant who know who to call—cabs working with them won't want to rip off their clients. From the airport, I establish a set fee (not a meter) and have the address of the hotel I'm going to handy. They may say it's 'closed,' that's a scam right there. Just insist on your destination. I'm not sure what the train platform 'escorts' are—perhaps someone looking to carry a bag for a tip, or something dodgier? I've heard about an occasional credit-card rip-off. To be honest, I don't use credit cards often in Vietnam for this purpose. If you're going to a more mid-range travel agent with a good reputation (eg Handspan), I wouldn't hesitate, nor would I hesitate at higher-end hotels (which I rarely stay at). Getting cash from ATMs is easy in Vietnam, and that's how I handle it. By the way, I live in New York but I root for the Packers by the way... _______________________ San Diego, Calif.: I have been on a tour to Vietnam and had a great time. I want to return and see some of the northern parts of the country, other than Hanoi. Do you have any suggestions for an itinerary? Robert Reid: Good idea! Focus on one area you want to see more of. But where to begin? Hanoi is one of the nicest cities in Asia, and it's easy to spend many days there, walking around the historic '36 streets' area, seeing Ho and his goattee at the mausoleum, the Temple of Literature and superb Ethnography Museum in the suburbs. Most go on a two-day cruise to Halong Bay, and a four-day or so trip (by train) to Sapa for treks in the mountains. You could add onto this by going a few hours south of Hanoi to Ninh Binh, where I enjoy renting a motorbike and riding around the 'Halong Bay of the ricefields' at Tam Coc or seeing gibbons at Cuc Phuong National Park. Beyond that, I've always wanted to take one of those Minsk-motorcycle tours around far-flung corners of the north. Some go on the Dien Bien Phu loop up to Sapa, but I hear the best rides are to Ba Be Lake, towards China. Voyage Vietnam arranges these from Hanoi. The north is beautiful. _______________________ Ann Arbor, Mich.: As a dancer, I'm interested in Vietnamese dancing. Does traditional Vietnamese dancing exist? Are there other forms of dancing popular in the country? Are there any schools of dance for someone on a backpacker's budget? I can't afford more than $10 or $15 an hour for lessons. I'll be going to Vietnam in Sept. and Oct. Thanks much. —Melanie Robert Reid: Hi there. It's an interesting question that has me stumped. Vietnam doesn't have the developed and present traditional-dance scene that you find in many Southeast Asian countries. I don't know why. I'd love to hear if you find anything, but I'm afraid I can't help you. Oh, maybe contact Hanoi Backpackers Hostel... the manager's wife runs an excellent language/cooking school there... they may know something I don't... _______________________ Honolulu, Hawaii: How do you get to visit the hill tribes of Vietnam? When we went there the government-managed travel agencies discouraged it and pretty much ignored requests of out-of-the-way villages and booked us for the major tourist sites: Saigon, Hue, Hoi An, HMC for shopping and look-alike fixed dinners/lunches. I might consider going there again if I had a contact who could organize individual travel to some of the more remote areas. Robert Reid: Sorry about that agency. Sounds like the classic Saigon tourist-type reaction: no flexibility. But there are many many agents that do offer various hill tribe tours, which sometimes can lead to unsatisfying herd-like trips past bleary eyed locals. Most of the hill tribe trips are in the north, though you'll find ethnic minority groups in the Mekong Delta. How to do it? I'd avoid things like the one-day trip to Mai Chau from Hanoi. If you don't mind roughing it a bit, you could hike through Cuc Phuong National Park's jungle, with guide, to stay at a Mnong village. The Minsk motorbike trips I mentioned earlier make many stops at lesser-seen hill tribe communities across the north. The easiest way to visit hill tribes is on a Sapa tour, which usually includes a two-day trek through the Muong Hoa Valley filled with Dai, Tay, Giay and Hmong villages. Some overnight in Ta Van, but it's better to go farther like Ban Ho... Some people say it's overly touristy, but I do enjoy the area. Though Sapa town can be upsetting, with hill tribe grandmothers offering opium on the streets. There's also more to see if you break out of the tour itinerary for a day. Bac Ha village, two hours east of Sapa, is something of the 'next Sapa.' It's popular for Sunday market—but there are many other markets in that area during the week, and if you don't mind roughing it, you could arrange overnight treks where VERY FEW people see. Consider at least overnighting in Bac Ha and riding out to villages there. _______________________ Clinton Corners, N.Y.: Thanks for taking my question. I am a veteran of the Vietnam war and am thinking of a trip back. Are their any tours designed toward veterans? Thank you. Robert Reid: Hi there. Where is Clinton Corners, I wonder? I've met many veterans who've done such trips, on package tours or on their own, and had incredible experiences that I loved hearing about. Some of them, however, have enjoyed not taking a full package tour, where guides at times were born after the war and lacked much knowledge! Other had a great time. I have a friend in Saigon who was stationed at Quang Ngai in 1970. He just motorcycled there and found his old camp. A less adventurous way to do this is on a Saigon-Hanoi trip, going on your own to hub locations (Saigon, Hoi An, Hue, Hanoi) and organizing day trips with local guides as you go, such as Cu Chi Tunnels from Saigon. The best place to stage trips is from Hue, just south of the DMZ. Many visitors go on unsatisfying bus tours of a handful of sites, led by government guides born after the war. It's better to go with small-scale travel operators, including a few run by South Vietnamese vets: Stop & Go in Hue (tel 054-827-051, stopandgocafe@yahoo.com), or DMZ Tours in Dong Ha town just north (tel 053-857-026, dmzcafedh@yahoo.com). These guys know what they're talking about and give a much more insider perspective. I went on a couple with them—to see old fire bases, the Vinh Moc tunnels, some of the Ho Chi Minh trail. Thanks for your question. Feel free to contact me via my site (reidontravel.com) if you have more questions... And I'd love to hear what you end up doing! _______________________ Austin, Tex.: We leave April 17th for SE Asia and plan to be in Vietnam sometime in May (dates are not concrete yet). My question is about obtaining visas. There is a service called http://www.vietnamstay.com/service/ that I read about on the LP blogs. They say they will send a letter to the Vietnam Immigration Dept. in Hanoi, an original letter of approval is then sent to the Vietnam Embassy abroad and in the US where they will then stamp it (they also send us a scanned copy). My husband is traveling to Washington DC in March and was planning to take everything to the Embassy to get it stamped. Have you heard of this? Is it legit? Or would it make better sense to just go the Vietnam Embassy to take care of everything. I'm confused by how the whole process works and what the best way is to go about getting a visa. Additionally, does the tourist visa start when you enter the country or are we required to give them exact dates for when we will be there? Long question I know, but I really appreciate any advice you have. I've tried calling the DC Embassy, but I either can't get a real person or I can't understand the person I do get. Thank you in advance for the help. Kindly, Jessica Robert Reid: Hi Jessica. I've not tried this service, but have heard from people who have without problem. The catch is whether it still works as well—I always expect such things to change every other week. Anyway, I just called the VN consulate in New York and they swore you can only do that 'in rare cases, or in an emergency.' They may be being alarmist, but it's possible you may lose time and it won't work out. I'd probably stick with the embassy. Oh, you need to establish set dates for your visit—you can extend visas in Hanoi (guesthouses can help) in a few days if you need to do it. _______________________ Glen Burnie, Md.: My husband and I and our 2 children (10 and 7 years old)have decided to take a "family timeout". We are going to travel the world for one year! Main focus on education and being together. We are planning on staying in Vietnam for 1 month in JAN-MARCH (which month is best?) Where in Vietnam would be a nice, safe, and interesting base? We are planning on staying in a hotel for a month or rent an house. Any suggestions? Robert Reid: Hi there. Sounds like a wonderful trip. I'd time it during next year's Tet, so you and your children can witness all the excitement of the Vietnamese new year (Jan 26, 2009). As far as where to go, this is hard. Hanoi has tons of Vietnamese cultural events, lots of traditional-style restaurants and attractions to see—you could have a lot of fun in a month, though it's chilly that time of year. Saigon's less attractive, but so full of energy that I'm sure it'd be memorable—and you could go on weekend trips to Cu Chi Tunnels, the Mekong Delta (super) or Phu Quoc Island. It'd be tempting to go with a random town, near things to do, but with less used to foreign faces. Something like Cantho in the Mekong (small but not too small), Hue (historic city with great, unique street food not found elsewhere). I'd read up on these places and debate how much urban scene vs quiet/beach is... Hope this helps! Have a great time... _______________________ Oakland, Calif.: We are planning a trip to Cambodia, Thailand & Vietnam for 2 weeks. With only 4 days in Vietnam, would it be enough time to see Ha Long Bay? Is it possible to see Ha Long without spending a night on the boat? Thanks! Robert Reid: If you only have four days and want to see Halong Bay, I'd spend a couple days in Hanoi and a couple in Halong Bay. Considering it's about a four-hour drive from Hanoi, you're really not going to get anything out of it if you stay just a day. A one-night cruise gets back around 4pm or 5pm the next day. _______________________ Paited Post, N.Y.: We have just booked a Smartour 16 days trip October 13-28 to Vietnam and Cambodia. Intended to drive to Kennedy Arport to start the long flight (via Korea). Is this a good time to visit Vietnam? Should we wait till November to avoid the raining season? Robert Reid: I really like October in Vietnam. I went then a year-and-a-half ago. I don't recall being rained on once—though I was only in Saigon, Mekong and Phu Quoc that time. It may be raining in Hue at that time of year (but it rains in November there too). I always enjoy a little rain in Vietnam—people waiting it out at roadside cafes... You still gloating on the Giants Super Bowl? _______________________ Enumclaw, Wash.: My husband, who served in Vietnam in the 60s, is interested in a return trip. Should we look into some type of package or can we get around on our own? We're fairly experienceD travelers, at least in Europe, but this will be my first time to Asia and it's obviously been a long time for him. What are the highlights we should make sure to see? Thanks, Dru Robert Reid: Hi, Dru. I think you'd have a super time in Vietnam, and I don't think you have to go on a package tour. You'll find a bit more hassle at an airport or bus stop than you would in, say, Brussels, but it's not that hard to get around. Offhand, you could fly into Saigon for a couple days, and maybe arrange a day tour to Cu Chi Tunnels, and perhaps a two-day group tour to the Mekong Delta from there. Then fly to Nha Trang beach town, or on to Danang, and taxi to Hoi An, a walkable historic town with a nice beach nearby. Then hire a taxi to go on a coastal road five hours north to the old capital Hue, near DMZ sites and king's tombs. Then fly to Hanoi for a couple days and arrange a two-day cruise of Halong Bay. That's a standard introduction—you could stay in comfortable hotels in each place, and reserve them ahead of time—perhaps with airport transfers ready so you wouldn't have to worry about that. It's just a little more work and pre-planning, but you'd have so much more freedom... _______________________ Plattsburgh, N.Y.: My best friend and I (both 30) will be traveling to SE Asia in 2 weeks. We will be in Ho Chi Minh for just 3 1/2 days (March 8-11) and would like to do a group day trip to the Mekong Delta. Could you suggest a budget conscious tour company and what places/activities we should look for in the tour? I've heard that the City is quite crowded—is it really very difficult to cross the road? Also, what would you suggest is the best way to get around the city. One last question please, we would like to relax by a pool one day and our hotel doesn't have one, where could we find one? Thank you for your help! —Kim Robert Reid: Hi Kim. You'll find many options for Mekong Delta tours around Saigon's Pham Ngu Lao/backpacker area. Big ones include Sinh Café and TNK Travel. Saigon is crazy busy—I've not seen many places that can compete. I love it for that—take it a bit easy the first day or two. Take a cyclo or air-con taxi for that matter. Till you start to get more comfortable with the ebb and flow... If you want a pool, many high-end hotels let you in for a fee to use the pools (the Park Hyatt is a whopping $25!)... There's a nice complex east of the center called Van Thang at 48/10 Dien Bien Phu St in Binh Tanh district you might like. By the river, there's restaurants and tennis courts and a big pool for about $1.25... _______________________ Chesterfield, Mo.: I am trying to decide on an itinerary and when to go to Vietnam, not too hot and not during the rainy season, is there a should season? I am hoping to go onto Ankgor Wat from there but do not want to go through Bangkok either way (even though I loved it). Any suggestions? Thanks. Robert Reid: Why not start in Hanoi in the Oct/Nov or Mar/Apr and work your way south? Those times aren't too hot, too cold or too busy. Stop in Hue, Hoi An, maybe Nha Trang, or old hill station town Dalat if it's too hot. From Saigon, you could join a group tour through Mekong Delta that winds up in Phnom Penh, and head to Angkor Wat. _______________________ Santa Rosa, Calif.: I will be traveling to Ho Chi Mien City for the first time on business. Words of advice, things not to leave home with out, must-see places, places to avoid? It is a 1-week trip with not a lot of down time. I will have a car and driver during the day. Best way to communicate with the folks at home? Thanks Robert Reid: Doesn't sound like you'll have any time to leave the city then, huh? Saigon (HCM City) has a few historic sights that are fun to see. The Reunification Palace was the home to the South Vietnam presidents, and it's shocking how 1975 the government has left it to be—with the old banquet halls and meeting rooms left pretty much as it was when the tanks burst through the gates in '75. In the center, you'll want to walk down Dong Khoi St and Le Loi St, over to Ben Thanh Market. Though I think the main market in Cholon is more interesting—Cholon is supposedly the world's biggest Chinatown—there are a few pagodas to see too. Saigon is a bit staring city. I'm not sure I've been to a place where everyone sits and stares at each other the same way. So join in. Sidewalk cafes are great places to sit and watch the mass parade of cyclos, motorbikes, push-cart vendors, SUVs roar by. And coffee is very good in Vietnam. If you have just a half a day, you could make it to Cu Chi Tunnels. It's not the nicest drive north of town, but you can see the war site—supposedly rebuilt—in maybe four hours total. _______________________ San Francisco, Calif.: Does Vietnam have beaches that would rival Thailand's beaches (fine, white sand, warm clear water) or do we need to go to Thailand for beach life? Robert Reid: To be honest, Thailand will always beat Vietnam for beaches, but Vietnam's are pretty good, and if you go to the right places you won't be around crowds. Parts of Phu Quoc Island, off the south coast, are untouched—in November I had long beaches of white sand to myself. Nha Trang is more of a party place these days—I actually prefer sitting on the beach on Cham Island, off Hoi An. Not so many people. A couple snorkel trips (only) stop there, and you can camp out there if you want. _______________________ Houston, Tex.: Do you recommend putting together an independent itinerary yourself or to buy a packaged tour from a travel agency? What travel agencies do you recommend for Vietnam? Robert Reid: I'm all about independent travel to Vietnam. Most people go independently than join day tours or shorter two- or three-day tours as they go using local agencies. Handspan in Hanoi has a good rep for mid-range tours, Sinh Balo in Saigon is great for more activity-based tours with small groups. Sorry I don't have the websites handy... _______________________ Naples, Fla.: Hi, Robert. My name is Jenifer and I'm 29 years old. I plan on doing a little globe trotting for a few months (July and August) hitting SE Asia, specifically Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. The thing is, I plan on backpacking by myself, and my parents are concerened about my safety. I am a real "off the beaten path" type of person and don't like tourist hubs. I want to see the country for what really is, culture and all. Is this possible for a 29-year-old independent female traveler? This would be my first "real" traveling trip so I'm not sure if that matters. Thanks!! Robert Reid: Vietnam, and most of Southeast Asia, is about the safest place in the world. I've only heard of the occasional purse or camera grab in many years in Vietnam. Even if you start your trip alone, Vietnam's a social place—and you're likely to meet new friends after a couple days that you'll end up traveling with for several days or more. You can get authentic Vietnam everywhere—get out of the center of Saigon or Hanoi, go to street stands or local noodle shops to eat and skip the Western-oriented restaurants in 'backpacker ghettos'. _______________________ Evansville, Ind.: I am organizing a group of 60 seniors to go to Vietnam for a tour. Can you suggest a couple of reliable, less expensive tour operators that can handle a group of this size? Robert Reid: I can't vouch for how any will handle such a group, never having done it. The classic group operator is Sinh Café, which have many fake locations in Hanoi. I'd probably stick with something not so big. And then talk with three or four to compare costs/service. Hanoi tends to have more agents than Saigon, though that doesn't necessarily mean its better to go via Hanoi (in fact it might not be). Saigon-based Ann Tours in Saigon is a mid-range tour agent with a great reputation. Hanoi's APT is a budget place used to groups. Wide Eyed Tours in Hanoi is an expat-run place that may have good advice for you at least. And Hanoi's Backpackers Hostel are run by nice folks, incl an Australian, who may be able to help. _______________________ Randolph, NJ: We will visit Angkor Wat from KL then we have 4-5 nights in Vietnam—what should we definitely see? We will arrive from KL and go back to KL for the flight to US. It will be mid-April. We are 2 people in our late 50's. Thank you, Howard Robert Reid: Hi Howard, In four or five nights, you can probably get a taste of one city and one other place, eg Hanoi/Halong Bay, Saigon/Mekong Delta, or Hanoi or Saigon/Hoi An. I think you should consider what you want to get out of Vietnam. For Mekong Delta, you can go on group tour and take boats down little Mekong canals; some offer bike rides on island paths if that's your thing. Hanoi is more beautiful than Saigon, has more attractions, and with more links to 'Vietnamese history' (first university, many legends), plus April is a good time to be there (not Jan/Feb cold, or May/June hot). From either Saigon or Hanoi, you could technically spend a couple days, then fly to Danang and have a couple days in Hoi An, an ancient Chinese trading town that's very walkable—some people love Hoi An the most, particularly on a first trip. _______________________ Robert Reid: Hi everyone. Time flies! I'm sorry I didn't get to everyone's questions today. I have a free online guidebook to Vietnam at reidontravel.com you can visit. Feel free to can contact me through the site and I'll try to help... Hope this has been helpful for everyone. I had fun being here. Thanks to the BudgetTravel.com folks for hosting it!

1. Players' etiquette: Mind your knickers When French tennis star Tatiana Golovin arrived on court at Wimbledon in 2007, her elegant white dress suggested she knew all about the tournament's famously strict sartorial code. Then she stepped up to serve—and promptly revealed a pair of bright red underpants to anyone who cared to look. Everyone, of course, did. Golovin won the first-round match, but sought guidance from the All England Lawn Tennis Club before sporting her knickers again. The sartorial decision was a small triumph of British diplomacy. Wimbledon's "predominantly white" clothing rule had not been breached. As Reuters reported last summer, the judges ruled that Golovin's knickers were above the hemline and thus deemed "underwear" rather than shorts. Etiquette survived intact. Rather than challenging the age-old customs, many players revel in them. James Blake may flash his biceps everywhere else on tour but admitted to ESPN.com, "I still always wear the sleeves here." For Venus Williams, whose second passion is fashion design, the regulations offer a challenge: "I think it's easy to be creative. I actually like the all-white." And who can forget Roger Federer's stylish cream blazer of 2006, which earned Nike plenty of plaudits? One longstanding stricture remains: If the Queen or the Prince of Wales is occupying the Royal Box, a bow or curtsy is obligatory upon entering and leaving the court. You may have just lost a grueling five-setter. You may be desperate to fling your racket against the locker room wall or to unleash a torrent of utterly foul language. Instead, you must pause, peer up at the dignitaries sitting on their Lloyd Loom wicker chairs, and daintily bend your knee. 2. Spectators' etiquette: Leave your Klaxons at home You may wear any color you like as a spectator, but there are still rules to follow. Some are listed in the printed program. Others are based on more than a century of court tradition. Herewith, the highlights: Don't make noise during a rally. Never applaud a let serve or double fault. No shouting, swearing, or booing. (Where do you think you are, the Australian Open?) Strawberries and cream: You may not even like soft fruit, but eating at least one bowl (about $4) is compulsory. Pack a hat and slap on the sunscreen. But, in a spirit of preparedness, you should also bring an umbrella. And if it rains, don't admit defeat. At least one fan must be photographed for the newspapers sitting stoically beneath a "brolly" as the downpour reaches biblical proportions. Fancy an alcoholic drink as you watch? Sorry, quaffing on court is a no-no. You may, however, bring a bottle of wine or a couple of cans of beer to enjoy with your picnic lunch on the lawn outside. Tote a pair of binoculars. Who is that flirting with Her Royal Highness? Carrying banners, flags, or Klaxons? These signs and noisemakers won't get past the stewards at the gate. Guys, there's no formal dress code, but for heaven's sake, keep your shirts on. Rafael Nadal can change his gear on court as often as he likes because he's a star. You, alas, are not. Turn off the flash on your camera. And silence your ghastly cell phone, too. Want to make a political statement in front of the TV cameras by wearing a message across your chest? The stewards may insist on a quiet word with you. For a guide to the tournament's quirks and eccentricities, visit wimbledontennis.co.uk, a comprehensive site set up by self-confessed Wimbledon nuts.

Jennifer Paull: Hello everyone, I'm Jennifer Paull, here to field your questions on the California Wine Country, from the up-and-coming regions of the Central Coast to the big guns of Napa and Sonoma. Lots of questions have been pouring in (couldn't help the pun) and I'll do my best to get to them all in the next hour. If you have special preferences about the experiences you're looking for, do let me know so that I can best tailor my suggestions. Now let's uncork the questions¿ _______________________ Bellevue, WA: I am heading to Sonoma (get there about every three years). Once again, I am waitlisted on the famous French Laundry. Hit the wonderful Cyrus last time, but wonder if there is another lesser know gem to dine at—and also a lesser known winery that needs to be discovered (my friends are sending us to Flowers, which I had not tried, and last time we found Bella, which was lovely!) Thanks, Tammy Jennifer Paull: Hello Tammy—what a mouthwatering question! Sounds like cost is no object in your hunt for a special restaurant, so I won't hesitate to recommend the Farmhouse Inn. Although this place has been in business for several years, it's off the beaten track in Forestville, so it's not jammed with daytrippers. The menu is contemporary with a French slant and they source plenty of ingredients locally, like the goat cheeses from down the road. Another option is Healdsburg's Dry Creek Kitchen, led by star chef Charlie Palmer—very sophisticated, modern cooking. And speaking of things Dry Creek, have you explored the wineries in the Dry Creek Valley? Places like Preston Vineyards and David Coffaro Estate are laid-back, small-production spots with memorable wines, and Michel-Schlumberger has some terrific cabernet sauvignons to try. Have a great trip! _______________________ Northfield, Vt.: I will be in Sonoma 3/19-3/20. What are the "must visit" vineyards in Sonoma for a 2 day trip? The best 2-3 restaurant choices for dinner in the town of Sonoma? Thanks. Jennifer Paull: Let's see, are you looking for a good place for an introduction to winemaking and wine tasting—or would you prefer to skip tours etc. and find a quiet, family-run spot? Benziger, near Glen Ellen in the Sonoma Valley, has a particularly good tour, during which the guides describe the various microclimates, show you an aging cave, and so on. The tours are first come, first served, so be sure to get here before noon. If you'd rather stop into smaller places along a scenic route, head for the Westside Road, which follows the Russian River southwest of Healdsburg. Several of the wineries here, like Gary Farrell, make wonderful pinot noir. As for restaurants in the town of Sonoma, the Harvest Moon is a reliable stop for homey, delicious cooking. Santé, in the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa, may be the town's swankiest place to eat. If you'd like to branch out, try LaSalette's Portuguese-inflected dishes. (LaSalette's also a good place for breakfast.) _______________________ Henderson, Nev.: What do you think about the wines from Livermore, CA? Jennifer Paull: I haven't tried very many wines from Livermore (they're not easy to find here in NYC!) but I was impressed by a Rhone-style red blend from Thomas Coyne. Livermore's definitely an up-and-coming appellation, and it's getting more and more daytrippers from the Bay Area. _______________________ Dallas, Tex.: I am making my first trip to Napa Valley April 2-5. I am traveling alone. I plan to tour some wineries. Do you recommend a group tour with strangers or getting my own car and driver? I am okay with either, but I want to use a good service with knowledgeable guides. Any recommendations? Also, what are good spas in the area? I am staying in Napa. Thanks! Jennifer Paull: Your decision not to drive yourself is a good one—you won't have to worry about getting behind the wheel after sipping. But with just a few days in the area, it might be best to maximize your opportunity and do just what you like, when you like, with a personal tour / driver. Beau Wine Tours can chauffeur you around in a sedan or limo; you can either put together your own list of places to visit, or pick one of their pre-set tours. They specialize in Napa, so they really know whereof they speak. The Napa Wine Tours company has several prearranged options and group tours, including a bike tour. For spas, a big splurge would be the Spa at Villagio, which just underwent a revamp. The Health Spa Napa Valley is a good choice if you'd like to incorporate yoga or a workout. Hitting the mud baths in Calistoga is a neat way to tap into Napa's history (although sometimes the peaty smell takes some getting used to). Places like Indian Springs have been here for over a century. A new resort, Solage, just opened a sleek spa complete with a "mud bar." _______________________ San Clemente, Calif.: The Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County, just west of the town of Healdsburg, seems to be an up-and-coming wine country region. Can you tell us what some of your favorite Dry Creek Valley tasting rooms might be? Jennifer Paull: Dry Creek Valley is definitely getting more and more attention these days—especially by zinfandel fans. See my note to the reader from Bellevue for a few winery suggestions. Another popular stop is Quivira. _______________________ New York, N.Y.: What wineries can I visit in Napa/Sonoma that focus on sustainable or organic winemaking? Jennifer Paull: Sustainable and organic viticulture and winemaking are really taking off. More and more wineries are making special green efforts, and you can get into some complex, fascinating conversations about the merits and definitions of different methods. One great place to start is Frog's Leap in Rutherford. This was the first Napa Valley winery to be certified organic, and the staff can talk at length about everything from cover crops to the use of beneficial insects. And the wines are delicious, too. De Loach Vineyards, in Sonoma's Russian River Valley, illustrates the principles of biodynamic farming. This method reaches beyond the standard organic techniques, taking a holistic approach. If you've been hearing stories about burying cow horns filled with cow manure in the vineyards and are curious to know what's going on, De Loach is the place to go. _______________________ Eufaula, Ala.: I'm going to be in Sonoma for a long Valentine's Day weekend. Any recommendations for something romantic, other than a nice dinner? Jennifer Paull: How about a balloon ride over the vineyards? The soft dawn light and the silence as you glide above the landscape are pretty incredible. (Just don't watch or read "Enduring Love" before you go.) There are a handful of companies that offer flights in both Napa and Sonoma, including Balloons Above the Valley and Napa Valley Balloons. When you touch down you'll be poured a glass of bubbly. _______________________ Arlington, Tex.: We will be staying in St Helena in mid April. We want to taste and eat. We have 2 days, how can we optimize this brief time? Kendall Jennifer Paull: Hi Kendall—Two names you'll undoubtedly hear paired with St. Helena are Stony Hill Vineyard and the restaurant Terra. They're both outstanding experiences. Stony Hill is synonymous with chardonnay. The family-run winery has been around for over 50 years and its wines have been revered by literally generations of wine drinkers and critics. Be sure to call ahead for a tasting and tour of the beautiful property. Terra's dining room oozes old-school romance-by-candlelight, but its menu has some fresh, Asian-inspired twists. But if you're looking for something casual and popular with locals, hit Taylor's Automatic Refresher, an outdoor burger stand. The look is 1950s but the menu has things like an ahi tuna burger. _______________________ Orlando, Fla.: We are thinking about taking our honeymoon in California in October of this year. Ideally, we would like to have an itinerary that takes us from San Francisco through the wine country and up to the Pacific Northwest. What would you recommend for our northern California wine country stops? Thank you! Jennifer Paull: What a perfect time of year to take this trip—you'll be there during "crush," when the grapes are being harvested. This is also an extremely busy time, so be sure to make your reservations well in advance! I'm not sure what sorts of wines or experiences you're looking for (are you familiar with tasting rooms, or new to wine tasting?) so here are a few different suggestions. Starting block: a short, fun winetasting class at the Copia center in Napa. For some bubbly: Schramsberg, one of Napa's oldest wineries, where you can see literally millions of bottles in 19th century caves. Besides, can't have a honeymoon without bubbly! Old-school Napa: Stony Hill, for legendary chardonnay. For a laid-back vibe and to learn about organic viticulture: Frog's Leap. To pair wine and horsepower: Far Niente, where you can tour a historic winery, sip some great cabernet, and ogle a collection of classic cars. An expensive tour but worth it. Congrats on your wedding and have a wonderful trip! _______________________ New York, N.Y: A couple of girlfriends and I are planning a getaway weekend to Napa/Sonoma. Are there any special spas you'd recommend? Jennifer Paull: Time for pampering! If you're ready to splurge, check the offerings at the Spa at Villagio and the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa. Look for special Wine Country treatments, like grape-seed scrubs, that you might not easily find at home. To fully embrace the grape, hit the Kenwood Inn & Spa, which uses the Caudal?e line of products, all based on grape-seed extracts. Kenwood also has a particularly lovely setting; if you sign up for one of the "wine barrel baths" you can soak while gazing at vineyards. _______________________ Louisville, Ky.: My husband and I will be spending a few days in the Bay Area wine country and while we're looking forward to the wineries, we don't want to spend every day, all day in the tasting rooms. What other things are there to do besides drinking and eating? Jennifer Paull: For a real departure you could hit the Infineon Raceway in Sonoma—trade the sipping and swishing for the roar of the dragstrip. On most Wednesday nights in summer and fall they have amateur races on the dragstrip, so you could even get in on the action. For something tamer, check out the di Rosa Preserve, a neat 20th-century art collection and one of the Wine Country's best-kept secrets. Or stretch your legs and go for a hike up Mount St. Helena, near Calistoga. Another good hiking trail winds through Jack London State Historic Park near Glen Ellen—pack a picnic and a copy of "The Call of the Wild." If you'd like to get on the water, sign up for a canoe trip on the Russian River. You'll work up an appetite for more of that eating and drinking! _______________________ Charlotte, N.C.: My husband and I, along with another couple (ages 37-40) will be enjoying all that Sonoma and Napa Valley have to offer. We will be traveling in mid June and have petty much decided on what we like to do, with one acception. We'd like to dine at a fabulous Sonoma or Napa Valley restaurant. Other than French Laundry, what restaurants would you suggest for a deliciously memorable meal? Jennifer Paull: Sounds like an enviable trip! One restaurant that leaps to mind is Cyrus, in Healdsburg. Talk about luxury: the chef seems to try to fit in truffles and foie gras wherever possible. The dining room is quite formal but you can construct your multicourse tasting menu in any number of ways. And this is one place where you should have a cocktail, not just wine—the list is amazing. _______________________ Oceanside, N.Y.: My wife and I have three days to spend in the Paso Robles wine region in April. We like fine dining. What restaurants do you recommend? Are there inns that have restaurants and that offer fine accommodations? Jennifer Paull: The restaurant Artisan, which is relatively new, has been getting strong reviews for its homey yet sophisticated cooking. It's the kind of place that serves homemade ketchup with its fries. The space is quite polished, a more urban look that you'll usually find in Paso Robles. Your best bet for lodging may be the Hotel Cheval. While it doesn't have a special restaurant under the same roof, it is just a short walk from Paso's main square and many of its best places to eat. _______________________ Colville, Wash.: I'm planning a visit to Paso Robles in the spring. I'm looking for suggestions for accommodations, preferably in town, and also for recommended wineries to visit during a 2 day stay. Jennifer Paull: The Hotel Cheval, mentioned in the reply to Oceanside, is both handy and atmospheric. It's central, so you can stroll around Paso's downtown, and each room has a picture of a namesake racehorse. On Friday and Saturday nights, you can even get a free ride to a local restaurant in the inn's carriage drawn by a Belgian draft horse. One of the best bargains in town is the family-run Adelaide Inn. Although it's near a busy intersection, the rooms are quiet and well-equipped (coffeemakers, irons, hair dryers) for a very reasonable price. There's a definite east side / west side split to the local vineyards. To the east of the Salinas River are wide open spaces with more extreme temperatures; this area is known for chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. Meridian Vineyards is a popular stop, especially since you can try and buy their reserve wines exclusively at the tasting room. Mountains rise up to the west, where you'll find some great red wines, especially zinfandel and syrah. Don't miss Tablas Creek, known for their Rhone varietal blends. On the tours, you can even graft a grapevine. This side also has a cult favorite: Justin Vineyards & Winery, which also has an on-site B&B. Sip the rich, complex red blends and you'll know what all the fuss is about. _______________________ Baltimore, Md.: My husband and I are traveling to wine country in April and plan to stay for approximately 5 days. There is so much to see in so little time. What are some places and features that can't be missed? Thank you Jennifer Paull: Hello—would you mind clarifying which area you'll be visiting? If you'll be in the Napa / Sonoma area, take a peek at the ideas posted for the honeymooning reader from Orlando. Travelers who are new to winetasting usually get a lot out of the tour at the Robert Mondavi winery in Oakville (Napa). Their operation is a very well-oiled machine. The other two big-name attractions nearby are Opus One (for bragging rights) and the small, historic Oakville Grocery, a perfect place to pick up a picnic lunch. If you'll be further south, check out my notes to the readers from Colville and Oceanside, just above, for a few possibilities. _______________________ Little Falls, N.J.: My husband and I are planning our first trip to Napa/Yountville in May. We will spend two and a half days there. Which wineries would you recommend that we visit on our first trip to Napa? Jennifer Paull: Yountville is a swell home base in Napa—you could eat at one of Thomas Keller's restaurants for practically every meal! Among the wineries, a trip to Stag's Leap Wine Cellars would be a good pick. This is the place that put the CA wine industry on the global map when its cabernet sauvignon won the Paris tasting competition of 1976. The winery is no-frills but you'll be tasting history. Drive up to Stony Hill Vineyard for another taste of history (chardonnay). If you're a fan of cabernet sauvignon, make a beeline for the Rutherford area, a short drive north from Yountville. The wineries here, like Beaulieu, focus on this particular varietal with outstanding results. You also can't escape the massive Francis Ford Coppola enterprise, now called Rubicon Estate. The tour of the property is quite a production, but the flagship blend is notably good. _______________________ Morristown, N.J.: Do you have a favorite wine country destination from which we could explore some vineyards and galleries? We've heard good things about St. Helena—are there any boutique hotels/b&bs you'd recommend? How about restaurants? Thanks you very much. Jennifer Paull: St. Helena is a neat place to stay (see my reply to the reader from Arlington, above) and its posh resort, Meadowood, is a wonderful getaway. But you mght also want to consider Healdsburg, in Sonoma. A handful of new restaurants, like the stellar Cyrus, hotels, and shops have made this a buzzing new hotspot. It's easy to reach lesser-known but excellent wineries in the Dry Creek and Alexander valleys from Healdsburg. Hotel Les Mars is the most opulent boutique hotel here—some would say over the top. The Honor Mansion is an especially welcoming spot; it's in a 19th century home and the staff is known for its warmth and attention. _______________________ Findlay, Ohio: My wife and I will be visiting the San Franciso area the very last week of May. I would like to spend a day or night visiting some wineries in the area. We do not anticipate spending a lot of money as we usually do not spend more than $10.00 for a bottle of wine. Do you have some suggestions for must visit wineries in the area? Jennifer Paull: I'm really glad you asked this—the overall impression is that the Wine Country is terribly expensive, but exploring the area on a budget can be done! Here are some tips: —Your hotel might distribute coupons for free or discounted tastings at nearby wineries, so don't forget to ask. —If you take the Winetasting 101 intro class at Copia in Napa, the fee is offset by a discount "passport" you'll get for local wineries. —The wineries in the Carneros region (closest to SF) sometimes have less-expensive fees than the tasting rooms of the big players up in Napa Valley. —There are still free tastings out there! A few include Frog's Leap and Kenwood Vineyards. —Hit the amazing local farmers' markets or casual bakeries / grocery stores for picnic fixings. Many wineries have beautiful outdoor picnic areas where you can have lunch. (Although etiquette means you should buy a bottle of wine from them.) _______________________ Redmond, Wash.: Hi, My husband, sister and her husband will be visiting the wine country of California on leap day weekend. We are staying in the town of Healdsburg and are interested in some advice on wineries to vist in the area that are unusual and fun. We've visited many of the well-known wineries in Napa Valley previously, so are interested in exploring some areas that are a little bit off the beaten track. Also would appreciate advice on restaurants and interesting sites. My brother-in-law is a fabulous amateur photographer so we are always on the look out for beautiful or unusual photo ops. Thanks! Jennifer Paull: Hi Redmond, have you ever been up to the Anderson Valley? Talk about an out-of-the-way place—it was so isolated that its main town, Boonville, once had a special lingo called Boontling! The towns you'll drive through are barely wide spots in the road, but you'll also find impressive wineries like Roederer Estate (for sparkling wines) and Navarro Vineyards, with a wide range of choices including gewurztraminer and pinot noir. _______________________ Yorktown Heights, N.Y.: We're planning to visit Sonoma/Napa from April 21-27--is that too long? Which B&B's would you recommend our staying at? Jennifer Paull: Well, that sounds heavenly to me—but I'm hardly objective! With a solid week, you can really explore the back roads, the farmers' markets, the local cheese shops, spend a few hours blissing out at a spa or picnicking, maybe catch a movie at the historic Sebastiani Theatre and then kick back with a Glariffee at the Swiss Hotel... whoops, I'm daydreaming. Besides the main drags down Napa and Sonoma valleys, take a couple of afternoons to drive along the Russian River or into the Alexander or Anderson valleys. You could split your time between Sonoma and Napa counties for the overnights. Besides the hotels and B&Bs I've recommended in other postings, check out the Gaige House Inn in Glen Ellen. This is an understated yet very elegant, relaxing B&B. But it's understandable that even wine buffs might not want to sip all the time. Take a look at my reply to the reader from Louisville for some other activity ideas. You could sign up with Napa Valley Bike Tours to pedal from vineyard to vineyard, or watch a cooking demonstration at the Culinary Institute of America in St. Helena. Also, check the schedule of the Napa Valley Opera House in case there's a good show during your stay. _______________________ Jennifer Paull: Thanks very much for your questions, everyone. I hope you all have a fantastic time on your trips—have an extra sip for me! And keep an eye out for our upcoming pocket-sized guide, In Focus California Wine Country, 1st edition, which will be in bookstores in April.