Sydney: The City

THE CITY The Australian: A Heritage Hotel100 Cumberland St., The Rocks, 011-61-2/9247-2229, australianheritagehotel.comA heritage B&B-style hotel built early last century, with antique furnishings, a guest parlor, and shared bathrooms, in the heart of The Rocks. The popular rooftop garden has views of the Harbour Bridge, and the food is Australian casual-try an emu pizza if you dare. Doubles from $96, including continental buffet breakfast. THE CITY Medina Executive Sydney Central2 Lee St., Haymarket, 011-61-2/8396-9800, medinaapartments.com.auThis Australia-wide chain provides dependable apartment-style accommodations. Each unit has a full kitchen and a washer/dryer, and there's a heated lap pool, gym, spa, and sauna. The Haymarket location occupies the handsome former Parcels Post Office building, on a busy intersection close to Chinatown and Sydney University. Doubles from $142 when booked online. COOGEE Dive Hotel243 Arden St., 011-61-2/9665-5538, divehotel.com.auSet right above Coogee Beach. It has big, bright rooms and stainless steel fixtures and ocean-blue tiles in the bathrooms. Rooms 1 and 2 have the only views. The hotel's three-bedroom annex, a small house that sleeps up to seven, is nearby on Alexandria St., and two blocks from the beach. Doubles from $125, including breakfast. Annex from $265. DARLINGHURST The Chelsea49 Womerah Ave., 011-61-2/9380-5994, chelsea.citysearch.com.auA row of stately Victorian terrace houses lovingly converted into a boutique hotel. Rooms are either French provincial (tapestries and Louis XV chairs) or contemporary (blond oak and Starck-like bathrooms). There's a charming garden with patio. Doubles from $108, including breakfast. DARLINGHURST L'otel114 Darlinghurst Rd., 011-61-2/9360-6868, lotel.com.au Set in the center of the buzzing, café-filled Darlinghurst. Popular with a young crowd, the 16 suites were designed by Burley Katon Halliday, one of Australia's best-known architecture firms. Each is individually decorated in a minimalist style and some have balconies. Within walking distance of downtown, Kings Cross, and the harbor. Doubles from $115. PADDINGTON Hughenden Boutique Hotel14 Queen St., Woollahra, 011-61-2/9363-4863, hughendenhotel.com.auIn the heart of Paddington, a short walk from Oxford St. fashion and food, Queen St. antiques, and the lovely Centennial Park. It's packed with 19th-century charm, from marble fireplaces to a grand piano, and it has an artist-in-residence program and an on-site café. Doubles from $112, including breakfast. RUSHCUTTERS BAY Vibe Hotel100 Bayswater Rd., 011-61-2/8353-8988, vibehotels.comDespite the name, the atmosphere inside Vibe is kind of flat-rooms are comfortable but not sensational. The real draw is the outdoor heated rooftop pool that overlooks pretty Rushcutters Bay and the marina beyond. There's also a gym, steam room, and deck for sunbathing. Near the sceney cafés of Potts Point and Darlinghurst. Doubles from $120. SPLURGE Regents Court 18 Springfield Ave., Potts Point, 011-61-2/9358-1533, regentscourt.com.auDiscreet and centrally located in Potts Point, and a favorite of visiting media and creative types. The 30 studio apartments are stylish and comfortable-all dark woods and natural fibers-though they can get a little noisy on weekends, when neighboring Kings Cross is in full party mode. Note: There's a flourishing rooftop garden, where guests can barbecue. Doubles from $170. SPLURGE Establishment Hotel5 Bridge Ln., 011-61-2/9240-3100, establishmenthotel.comGreat central location in the CBD (central business district) and lots of glitz. Each of the 33 rooms features one of two designs: "urban" (sleek and industrial, with polished black floorboards and high, warehouse-style ceilings) or "luxe" (paler coffee tones, with thick carpeting and soft lighting). There are two restaurants, five bars, and a popular nightclub in the building. Doubles from $237. TIP: Gratuities Tips aren't expected in bars and hotels, but feel free to slip your bartender or bellhop something if you feel the service warrants it. Do add 10 percent to restaurant checks when you've enjoyed the experience, though it's certainly not required. Also, it's customary to round up on cab fares.

TO / FROM THE AIRPORT Sydney Kingsford Smith Airport (SYD)011-61-2/9667-9111, sydneyairport.com.auTerminal 1: international flights. Terminal 2: domestic flights on Virgin Blue, Jetstar, and smaller regional airlines. Terminal 3: domestic Qantas flights. Shuttle or train transfers between terminals cost $3. There's an information desk in Terminal 1, as well as gold-suited roaming ambassadors who answer questions. Some hotels have free airport pickup, so ask when booking. Rail: The Airport Link (011-61-2/8337-8417, airportlink.com.au) connects terminals with city train stations. Single fares to central Sydney cost $6.30 and the ride takes 13 minutes, but the service isn't particularly useful unless you're staying near a station. Bus: The KST Airporter shuttle (011-61-2/9666-9988, kst.com.au) takes passengers to any one of about 240 hotels in the City, Kings Cross, and Darling Harbour. Maximum trip times are 45 minutes by bus or minivan. Reservations not required; bus stops are outside each terminal. Fares are $7 one way, $11 round trip. Taxi: The most convenient option, with stands outside each terminal. Expect to pay $22-$27 for the 30-minute ride to the city center. GETTING AROUND Public Transportation13-1500 within Australia, 011-61-2/8202-2000, 131500.com.auRail: Use CityRail trains to get around Sydney or out to the north shore (from $9.50). Bus: The Sydney Bus system covers more than 300 routes around the city (from $1.25/ride, printable maps available online). Ferry: Old wooden ferries and speedy new catamarans ply the harbor from Watsons Bay and Manly in the east to Parramatta in the west (from $3.60). Note: If you plan on combining modes of transport, buy a Daytripper ticket from your bus driver, CityRail stations, or ferry ticket offices for unlimited travel on trains, buses, and ferries ($11.60). Three-, five-, and seven-day Sydney Passes are even more comprehensive, allowing travel on the Manly JetCat hydrofoil, harbor cruises, and the airport train, in addition to standard trains, buses, and ferries. From $68. TaxisTaxis come in all shapes and colors, each with a distinctive roof bar that's lit when the car is available. Hailing cabs on the street is perfectly safe, but driver knowledge can be frustratingly limited. Avoid needing a cab at 3 p.m. and 3 a.m., when drivers change shifts. Silver Service Cabs (133-100 from within Australia only, silverservice.com.au) are a cut above but cost the same as other taxis. $2.80 initial charge, then $1.62 each kilometer; 20 percent surcharge from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. Water Taxis011-61-2/9555-8888, watertaxis.com.au or 011-61-2/9299-0199, yellowwatertaxis.com.auThe glamorous alternative for those who want to arrive at their waterfront restaurant in style, or prefer a private harbor tour. Fares start at $46 for four people (plus $7.70 per extra passenger) for short trips. WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWNThe Sydney Morning Herald has a metro entertainment section on Fridays and a Weekend Planner on Saturdays. Free rags like Brag and Drum (available in music stores) are good for finding concerts. Useful websites include whatsoninsydney.com, sydney.citysearch.com.au, and you.com.au. TOURS Matilda Cruises 011-61-2/9264-7377, matilda.com.auThe most experienced tour operator on the harbor, with a fleet of catamarans both large and small. It offers everything from Manly jaunts ($11-$18, $41/family of four) to two-hour dinner cruises (from $75 per person). Departs from Circular Quay and King Street Wharf. Gourmet Safaris011-61-2/9960-5675, gourmetsafaris.com.au Local food expert and TV personality Maeve O'Meara designs each of these high-energy tours. They depart from various points (typically Central Station) and delve into diverse ethnic enclaves in search of authentic food and fun. Regular outings include visits to the Vietnamese neighborhood of Cabramatta, Little Italy in Haberfield, Little Greece in Marrickville, and World in a Day bus trips to sample everything from Iraqi to Cypriot cuisine. Tours tend to last six to eight hours. From $63, including food. Sydney Explorer / Bondi Explorer 011-61-2/9207-3101, sydneypass.infoHop-on, hop-off sightseeing buses that take in key landmarks of the inner city (Opera House, Darling Harbour) and eastern beaches (Coogee, Bondi). Buses depart regularly from Circular Quay, but you can get on or off at any of the stops en route. Buy tickets onboard. $28 for one-day pass. NUMBERS TO KNOW   Directory assistance 12-455 or 1223   Emergencies Police, fire, ambulance 000   International operator 1225   Transportation info 13-1500   Theater and sports tickets Ticketek, 13-2849, ticketek.com; Ticketmaster, 13-6100, ticketmaster.com.au   International access code From U.S., 011   Country code 61   City code 02   Operator assisted prefix 12   Local rate prefix 13 or 1300 Note: When dialing from abroad, dial 011-61-2 and then the number. Within Sydney, dial 02 and then the number.

BODY-MIND-SPIRIT SHOP Body 333 Cordova Rd., 505/986-0362, bodyofsantafe.comA one-stop shop for the body and soul, with an organic, vegan, and raw-food café; serene spa; cool boutique; child-care center; and movement studio with classes in yoga, Pilates, and Nia Technique ($12-$15). Clients float out of the spa (acupuncture, massage, Rolfing, facials, and body-scrub treatments are priced from $35), then linger in the boutique browsing soothing music, insightful books, great exercise gear, and natural body products. Check online for schedules. PLAY Absolute Nirvana Spa, Tea Room & Gardens706 Faithway St., 505/983-7942Finding an exotic teahouse in the common room of a late-19th-century Victorian inn may throw off some guests. But sip fragrant green-tea leaves infused with jasmine blossoms and any perplexities vanish. Guests couldn't be more relaxed unless they also indulge in a massage and rose-petal bath at the adjacent Indonesian spa. ESCAPE Ten Thousand Waves 3451 Hyde Park Rd., 505/982-9304, tenthousandwaves.comDe-stress at this rustic Japanese mountain spa retreat minutes from Santa Fe. Soak in outdoor hot tubs (from $14 for a 55-minute soak), relax with massage and body treatments (from $40), and have a healthy snack by the koi pond. Not ready for reality? Check into one of 12 minimalist guest suites at the Houses of the Moon, nestled among the pine trees, and you may never want to descend from the mountain. Rates from $190 in low season, $210 in high season. ESCAPE Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs50 Los Baños Dr. in Ojo Caliente, one hour north of Santa Fe, 800/222-9162, 505/583-2233, ojocalientespa.comSoak away your cares in the serene outdoor hot springs at one of the country's oldest health resorts. Rustic cabins, a healthy restaurant, and stunning scenery combine for the ultimate peaceful getaway. Day access to the hot springs starts at $16. GREAT OUTDOORS SEE Randall Davey Audubon CenterEnd of Upper Canyon Rd., 505/983-4609, nm.audubon.orgIn the 1920s, well-known Santa Fe painter Randall Davey transformed an 1840s sawmill into his home and studio. Today, the 135-acre property belongs to the National Audubon Society, which maintains the hiking trails. Free guided bird walks depart at 8:30 a.m. Sat., and $5 house tours begin at 2 p.m. Mon. SHOP The Santa Fe Farmers Market505/983-4098, santafefarmersmarket.comRows of organic lamb and buffalo meat, cheese, jams, salsas, chiles, and New Mexico fruits and vegetables are sold by several hundred regional farmers. Body products, crafts, and live music crop up everywhere, too-it's a very happy scene. The outdoor market runs Tues.-Sat., 7 a.m.-noon, from April's third weekend through October in Railyard Park, where Cerrillos Road intersects Guadalupe Street. The winter market runs Sat., 9 a.m.-1 p.m., Nov.-early April, at El Museo Cultural (1615 Paseo de Peralta). PLAY New Wave Rafting Company1101 Cerrillos Rd., 800/984-1444, 505/984-1444 newwaverafting.comExplore the world-class white water of the Rio Grande with seasoned guides. River rafting trips run 5 to 16 miles through wild and scenic areas. From $43. Reservations required. ESCAPE Ski Santa Fe16 miles NE of Santa Fe on Hwy. 475 (Artist Rd./Hyde Park Rd.), 505/982-4429, skisantafe.comIn the Santa Fe National Forest, this 12,053-foot mountain has steep mogul trails for experts as well as easy runs with fantastic Santa Fe views. It's a great family destination with mountainside dining and a solid ski school. Snowboarders dig it as much as Nordic skiers. All-day lift tickets cost $49 adults, $35 children and seniors. UNDERSTANDING SANTA FE   Arroyo River or irrigation ditch   Farolitos Paper bags filled with sand that hold little glowing candles, traditionally displayed at Christmas   Órale qué pasa The local greeting, Spanish for "Hey, what's up?"; it's usually followed by "bro"   Sangre de Cristo Not a cocktail (that's sangria), but Spanish for "blood of Christ." Also the official name of the Santa Fe Mountains, foothills of the Rocky Mountains that turn dramatic shades of red at sunset   "Visualize Turn Signal Use" One of Santa Fe's many bumper-sticker slogans. This one reflects the opinion of local drivers that indicating a turn with a signal indicates a personality flaw

PUEBLOS SEE The Museum of Indian Art & Culture710 Camino Lejo, 505/476-1250, miaclab.orgA state museum, MIAC focuses on Native American art and culture. It houses an impressive permanent collection, and offers special exhibits, public lectures, and field trips. Open Tues.-Sun., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. $7, 16 and under free. SEE The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian704 Camino Lejo, 800/607-4636, 505/982-4636 wheelwright.orgChanging exhibits of American Indian and traditional and contemporary art highlight the Southwest. The Case Trading Post museum shop hosts related lectures, artist receptions, and other events. Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; and Sun. 1-5 p.m. Free. SHOP Portal of the Palace of the Governors105 W. Palace Ave., 505/476-5100In a long-standing tradition, Native American artists draw a daily lottery to determine who gets to sell their work-rain or shine-under the palace portal. Tourists and locals chat with artists and buy their silver and turquoise jewelry, elegant pottery, beaded items, and other coveted pieces. PLAY Camel Rock Casino10 minutes north of Santa Fe on U.S. Highway 84/285 800/462-2635, camelrockcasino.comThe casino circuit fronts major highways near Santa Fe, and the Pueblo-owned resorts have cheap buffet spreads, hotels, and venues for major acts such as comedian Jerry Seinfeld and the rock band Metallica. Owned by the Tesuque Pueblo tribe, this cavernous casino has table games, more than 700 slots, bingo, and a $5 southwestern buffet on Saturdays. This is a place to hole up and play the numbers. ESCAPE Pueblo dances505/843-7270, indianpueblo.orgColorful and mesmerizing with rhythmic drumming and chanting, pueblo dances are centered on seasonal cycles and spiritual beliefs tied to nature. Many of New Mexico's 19 pueblos open their dances to the public. Respectful behavior is mandatory, so don't do any of the following: talk during the dance, applaud once it's over, assume you can take photographs, or walk into people's houses or sacred sites on the pueblo. Performances depend on the position of the moon, so call ahead for schedules. SPANISH COLONIAL SEE Museum of Spanish Colonial Art750 Camino Lejo, 505/982-2226, spanishcolonial.orgInside an early-20th-century Spanish Colonial-style building designed by famed Santa Fe architect John Gaw Meem, this museum documents the fabulous art and rich culture of the Spanish colonies that thrived in New Mexico and elsewhere. Open Tues.-Sun., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. $6, New Mexico residents $3, 17 and under free. SHOP Spanish Market 505/982-2226, spanishmarket.orgHispanic artists working with Spanish Colonial traditions sell their work twice a year in festival-style markets featuring demonstrations, live music, and regional food. The art reflects the religious beliefs of the 16th-century Spanish settlers. Find the summer market on the Santa Fe Plaza the first full weekend in July, and the winter market on the first full weekend in December at the Sweeney Convention Center (201 W. Marcy St.) Free. PLAY Maria Benitez Cabaret at the Radisson Santa Fe750 N. Saint Francis Dr., 800/982-9198, 505/992-5800Famed flamenco dancer Maria Benitez's Teatro Flamenco troupe takes the summer stage at the romantic cabaret that bears her name. Wrought-iron rails, faux ivy, soft candlelight, and fiery guitarists contribute to the Old Spanish atmosphere. Call for schedule and ticket info. ESCAPE El Rancho de las Golondrinas15 miles south of Santa Fe, Exit 276 off Interstate 25 334 Los Pinos Rd., 505/471-2261, golondrinas.orgA living-history museum devoted to the heritage and culture of Spanish Colonial New Mexico, with more than 30 historic buildings. Costumed docents interpret life in early New Mexico, and special events and festivals celebrate old traditions that still thrive in the northern part of the state. Keep an eye out for the golondrinas, or swallows. Open June-Oct., Wed.-Sun., 10 a.m.-4 p.m. $5.