Sydney: Sleep

TO / FROM THE AIRPORT Sydney Kingsford Smith Airport (SYD)011-61-2/9667-9111, sydneyairport.com.auTerminal 1: international flights. Terminal 2: domestic flights on Virgin Blue, Jetstar, and smaller regional airlines. Terminal 3: domestic Qantas flights. Shuttle or train transfers between terminals cost $3. There's an information desk in Terminal 1, as well as gold-suited roaming ambassadors who answer questions. Some hotels have free airport pickup, so ask when booking. Rail: The Airport Link (011-61-2/8337-8417, airportlink.com.au) connects terminals with city train stations. Single fares to central Sydney cost $6.30 and the ride takes 13 minutes, but the service isn't particularly useful unless you're staying near a station. Bus: The KST Airporter shuttle (011-61-2/9666-9988, kst.com.au) takes passengers to any one of about 240 hotels in the City, Kings Cross, and Darling Harbour. Maximum trip times are 45 minutes by bus or minivan. Reservations not required; bus stops are outside each terminal. Fares are $7 one way, $11 round trip. Taxi: The most convenient option, with stands outside each terminal. Expect to pay $22-$27 for the 30-minute ride to the city center. GETTING AROUND Public Transportation13-1500 within Australia, 011-61-2/8202-2000, 131500.com.auRail: Use CityRail trains to get around Sydney or out to the north shore (from $9.50). Bus: The Sydney Bus system covers more than 300 routes around the city (from $1.25/ride, printable maps available online). Ferry: Old wooden ferries and speedy new catamarans ply the harbor from Watsons Bay and Manly in the east to Parramatta in the west (from $3.60). Note: If you plan on combining modes of transport, buy a Daytripper ticket from your bus driver, CityRail stations, or ferry ticket offices for unlimited travel on trains, buses, and ferries ($11.60). Three-, five-, and seven-day Sydney Passes are even more comprehensive, allowing travel on the Manly JetCat hydrofoil, harbor cruises, and the airport train, in addition to standard trains, buses, and ferries. From $68. TaxisTaxis come in all shapes and colors, each with a distinctive roof bar that's lit when the car is available. Hailing cabs on the street is perfectly safe, but driver knowledge can be frustratingly limited. Avoid needing a cab at 3 p.m. and 3 a.m., when drivers change shifts. Silver Service Cabs (133-100 from within Australia only, silverservice.com.au) are a cut above but cost the same as other taxis. $2.80 initial charge, then $1.62 each kilometer; 20 percent surcharge from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. Water Taxis011-61-2/9555-8888, watertaxis.com.au or 011-61-2/9299-0199, yellowwatertaxis.com.auThe glamorous alternative for those who want to arrive at their waterfront restaurant in style, or prefer a private harbor tour. Fares start at $46 for four people (plus $7.70 per extra passenger) for short trips. WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWNThe Sydney Morning Herald has a metro entertainment section on Fridays and a Weekend Planner on Saturdays. Free rags like Brag and Drum (available in music stores) are good for finding concerts. Useful websites include whatsoninsydney.com, sydney.citysearch.com.au, and you.com.au. TOURS Matilda Cruises 011-61-2/9264-7377, matilda.com.auThe most experienced tour operator on the harbor, with a fleet of catamarans both large and small. It offers everything from Manly jaunts ($11-$18, $41/family of four) to two-hour dinner cruises (from $75 per person). Departs from Circular Quay and King Street Wharf. Gourmet Safaris011-61-2/9960-5675, gourmetsafaris.com.au Local food expert and TV personality Maeve O'Meara designs each of these high-energy tours. They depart from various points (typically Central Station) and delve into diverse ethnic enclaves in search of authentic food and fun. Regular outings include visits to the Vietnamese neighborhood of Cabramatta, Little Italy in Haberfield, Little Greece in Marrickville, and World in a Day bus trips to sample everything from Iraqi to Cypriot cuisine. Tours tend to last six to eight hours. From $63, including food. Sydney Explorer / Bondi Explorer 011-61-2/9207-3101, sydneypass.infoHop-on, hop-off sightseeing buses that take in key landmarks of the inner city (Opera House, Darling Harbour) and eastern beaches (Coogee, Bondi). Buses depart regularly from Circular Quay, but you can get on or off at any of the stops en route. Buy tickets onboard. $28 for one-day pass. NUMBERS TO KNOW   Directory assistance 12-455 or 1223   Emergencies Police, fire, ambulance 000   International operator 1225   Transportation info 13-1500   Theater and sports tickets Ticketek, 13-2849, ticketek.com; Ticketmaster, 13-6100, ticketmaster.com.au   International access code From U.S., 011   Country code 61   City code 02   Operator assisted prefix 12   Local rate prefix 13 or 1300 Note: When dialing from abroad, dial 011-61-2 and then the number. Within Sydney, dial 02 and then the number.

BODY-MIND-SPIRIT SHOP Body 333 Cordova Rd., 505/986-0362, bodyofsantafe.comA one-stop shop for the body and soul, with an organic, vegan, and raw-food café; serene spa; cool boutique; child-care center; and movement studio with classes in yoga, Pilates, and Nia Technique ($12-$15). Clients float out of the spa (acupuncture, massage, Rolfing, facials, and body-scrub treatments are priced from $35), then linger in the boutique browsing soothing music, insightful books, great exercise gear, and natural body products. Check online for schedules. PLAY Absolute Nirvana Spa, Tea Room & Gardens706 Faithway St., 505/983-7942Finding an exotic teahouse in the common room of a late-19th-century Victorian inn may throw off some guests. But sip fragrant green-tea leaves infused with jasmine blossoms and any perplexities vanish. Guests couldn't be more relaxed unless they also indulge in a massage and rose-petal bath at the adjacent Indonesian spa. ESCAPE Ten Thousand Waves 3451 Hyde Park Rd., 505/982-9304, tenthousandwaves.comDe-stress at this rustic Japanese mountain spa retreat minutes from Santa Fe. Soak in outdoor hot tubs (from $14 for a 55-minute soak), relax with massage and body treatments (from $40), and have a healthy snack by the koi pond. Not ready for reality? Check into one of 12 minimalist guest suites at the Houses of the Moon, nestled among the pine trees, and you may never want to descend from the mountain. Rates from $190 in low season, $210 in high season. ESCAPE Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs50 Los Baños Dr. in Ojo Caliente, one hour north of Santa Fe, 800/222-9162, 505/583-2233, ojocalientespa.comSoak away your cares in the serene outdoor hot springs at one of the country's oldest health resorts. Rustic cabins, a healthy restaurant, and stunning scenery combine for the ultimate peaceful getaway. Day access to the hot springs starts at $16. GREAT OUTDOORS SEE Randall Davey Audubon CenterEnd of Upper Canyon Rd., 505/983-4609, nm.audubon.orgIn the 1920s, well-known Santa Fe painter Randall Davey transformed an 1840s sawmill into his home and studio. Today, the 135-acre property belongs to the National Audubon Society, which maintains the hiking trails. Free guided bird walks depart at 8:30 a.m. Sat., and $5 house tours begin at 2 p.m. Mon. SHOP The Santa Fe Farmers Market505/983-4098, santafefarmersmarket.comRows of organic lamb and buffalo meat, cheese, jams, salsas, chiles, and New Mexico fruits and vegetables are sold by several hundred regional farmers. Body products, crafts, and live music crop up everywhere, too-it's a very happy scene. The outdoor market runs Tues.-Sat., 7 a.m.-noon, from April's third weekend through October in Railyard Park, where Cerrillos Road intersects Guadalupe Street. The winter market runs Sat., 9 a.m.-1 p.m., Nov.-early April, at El Museo Cultural (1615 Paseo de Peralta). PLAY New Wave Rafting Company1101 Cerrillos Rd., 800/984-1444, 505/984-1444 newwaverafting.comExplore the world-class white water of the Rio Grande with seasoned guides. River rafting trips run 5 to 16 miles through wild and scenic areas. From $43. Reservations required. ESCAPE Ski Santa Fe16 miles NE of Santa Fe on Hwy. 475 (Artist Rd./Hyde Park Rd.), 505/982-4429, skisantafe.comIn the Santa Fe National Forest, this 12,053-foot mountain has steep mogul trails for experts as well as easy runs with fantastic Santa Fe views. It's a great family destination with mountainside dining and a solid ski school. Snowboarders dig it as much as Nordic skiers. All-day lift tickets cost $49 adults, $35 children and seniors. UNDERSTANDING SANTA FE   Arroyo River or irrigation ditch   Farolitos Paper bags filled with sand that hold little glowing candles, traditionally displayed at Christmas   Órale qué pasa The local greeting, Spanish for "Hey, what's up?"; it's usually followed by "bro"   Sangre de Cristo Not a cocktail (that's sangria), but Spanish for "blood of Christ." Also the official name of the Santa Fe Mountains, foothills of the Rocky Mountains that turn dramatic shades of red at sunset   "Visualize Turn Signal Use" One of Santa Fe's many bumper-sticker slogans. This one reflects the opinion of local drivers that indicating a turn with a signal indicates a personality flaw

PUEBLOS SEE The Museum of Indian Art & Culture710 Camino Lejo, 505/476-1250, miaclab.orgA state museum, MIAC focuses on Native American art and culture. It houses an impressive permanent collection, and offers special exhibits, public lectures, and field trips. Open Tues.-Sun., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. $7, 16 and under free. SEE The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian704 Camino Lejo, 800/607-4636, 505/982-4636 wheelwright.orgChanging exhibits of American Indian and traditional and contemporary art highlight the Southwest. The Case Trading Post museum shop hosts related lectures, artist receptions, and other events. Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; and Sun. 1-5 p.m. Free. SHOP Portal of the Palace of the Governors105 W. Palace Ave., 505/476-5100In a long-standing tradition, Native American artists draw a daily lottery to determine who gets to sell their work-rain or shine-under the palace portal. Tourists and locals chat with artists and buy their silver and turquoise jewelry, elegant pottery, beaded items, and other coveted pieces. PLAY Camel Rock Casino10 minutes north of Santa Fe on U.S. Highway 84/285 800/462-2635, camelrockcasino.comThe casino circuit fronts major highways near Santa Fe, and the Pueblo-owned resorts have cheap buffet spreads, hotels, and venues for major acts such as comedian Jerry Seinfeld and the rock band Metallica. Owned by the Tesuque Pueblo tribe, this cavernous casino has table games, more than 700 slots, bingo, and a $5 southwestern buffet on Saturdays. This is a place to hole up and play the numbers. ESCAPE Pueblo dances505/843-7270, indianpueblo.orgColorful and mesmerizing with rhythmic drumming and chanting, pueblo dances are centered on seasonal cycles and spiritual beliefs tied to nature. Many of New Mexico's 19 pueblos open their dances to the public. Respectful behavior is mandatory, so don't do any of the following: talk during the dance, applaud once it's over, assume you can take photographs, or walk into people's houses or sacred sites on the pueblo. Performances depend on the position of the moon, so call ahead for schedules. SPANISH COLONIAL SEE Museum of Spanish Colonial Art750 Camino Lejo, 505/982-2226, spanishcolonial.orgInside an early-20th-century Spanish Colonial-style building designed by famed Santa Fe architect John Gaw Meem, this museum documents the fabulous art and rich culture of the Spanish colonies that thrived in New Mexico and elsewhere. Open Tues.-Sun., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. $6, New Mexico residents $3, 17 and under free. SHOP Spanish Market 505/982-2226, spanishmarket.orgHispanic artists working with Spanish Colonial traditions sell their work twice a year in festival-style markets featuring demonstrations, live music, and regional food. The art reflects the religious beliefs of the 16th-century Spanish settlers. Find the summer market on the Santa Fe Plaza the first full weekend in July, and the winter market on the first full weekend in December at the Sweeney Convention Center (201 W. Marcy St.) Free. PLAY Maria Benitez Cabaret at the Radisson Santa Fe750 N. Saint Francis Dr., 800/982-9198, 505/992-5800Famed flamenco dancer Maria Benitez's Teatro Flamenco troupe takes the summer stage at the romantic cabaret that bears her name. Wrought-iron rails, faux ivy, soft candlelight, and fiery guitarists contribute to the Old Spanish atmosphere. Call for schedule and ticket info. ESCAPE El Rancho de las Golondrinas15 miles south of Santa Fe, Exit 276 off Interstate 25 334 Los Pinos Rd., 505/471-2261, golondrinas.orgA living-history museum devoted to the heritage and culture of Spanish Colonial New Mexico, with more than 30 historic buildings. Costumed docents interpret life in early New Mexico, and special events and festivals celebrate old traditions that still thrive in the northern part of the state. Keep an eye out for the golondrinas, or swallows. Open June-Oct., Wed.-Sun., 10 a.m.-4 p.m. $5.

VISUAL ARTS SEE Museum of Fine Arts 107 W. Palace Ave., 505/476-5072, mfasantafe.orgA state museum that features some of the best modern and contemporary art in New Mexico, as well as top-notch touring exhibits. The 1917 multi-story adobe is itself a work of art, reflecting Pueblo architecture as well as ancient Franciscan mission churches. Open Tues.-Sun., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. $7, New Mexico residents $5, 16 and under free; Fri. 5-8 p.m. free. SEE Museum of International Folk Art 706 Camino Lejo on Museum Hill, 505/476-1200, moifa.orgWorld's largest collection of folk art contains colorful toys, textiles, totems, and other prized pieces from around the globe. This state museum's busy schedule includes excellent exhibits and fine educational programs. Open Tues.-Sun., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. $7, New Mexico residents $5, 16 and under free. SEE Canyon RoadJoin the throngs of serious and amateur art aficionados at the traditional Friday-evening openings hosted by galleries lining Canyon Road, the famous one-mile stretch of art from around the world. Uneven pavement and sidewalks that simply disappear make walking an exercise, so leave the heels at home. SEE Baca StreetAn emerging alternative art scene on the city's southwest side that pulses with activity. Contemporary glassblowers, Celtic jewelers, painters, and sculptors surround Box Gallery (916 Baca St., 505/989-4897), which showcases contemporary New Mexico artists. The hip eatery, Counter Culture Cafe, feeds them all. SEE Shidoni Foundry in TesuqueBishop's Lodge Rd., five miles north of Santa Fe Plaza 505/988-8001, shidoni.comA leading bronze foundry, Shidoni takes its name from a Navajo greeting. Aptly, visitors are welcomed to galleries with work by eminent artists. Bring a picnic and walk through towering works of wonder in the outdoor sculpture garden. Watching molten bronze heated to 200 degrees and poured into ceramic molds will inspire you to quit your day job and become an artiste. Call ahead for pour times. LITERARY AND PERFORMING ARTS SEE Lensic Performing Arts Center 211 W. San Francisco St., 505/988-7050 (ticket info) 505/988-1234, lensic.comA 1931 vaudeville and film palace built in faux Moorish and Spanish Renaissance architectural styles and recently renovated into a high-tech venue. The Lensic hums with local and international theater, as well as music, dance, film, and literary events. Schedule and tickets available online. SEE Santa Fe Playhouse142 E. DeVargas St., 505/988-4262, santafeplayhouse.orgSanta Fe's historic community theater presents original and classic productions, as well as staged readings, dance performances, and more. A great venue for viewing local talent. From "pay what you wish" Sunday matinees to $20. SEE Nicholas Potter Bookseller 211 E. Palace Ave., 505/983-5434The city's oldest used-book shop offers a fine collection of compelling books, including fascinating titles about the Southwest. SEE Collected Works Bookstore 208B W. San Francisco St., 505/988-4226, collectedworksbookstore.comSanta Fe's community bookstore also hosts book signings with literary lions. Employees are impressively well read. SEE La Cantina at La Casa Sena 125 E. Palace Ave., 505/988-9232, lacasasena.comAt this casual bar, which is part of an established Santa Fe restaurant housed in a historic hacienda, servers don theatrical finery and croon Broadway and jazz standards. The audience has a ball. Make a request and you might be serenaded as you eat nachos and nurse a margarita. SEE The Santa Fe OperaWest side of U.S. Hwy. 84/285, seven miles north of Santa Fe 800/280-4654, 505/986-5900, santafeopera.orgHear impeccable highbrow music in the high desert. You can't miss the 2,128-seat opera house's open-air roof, flung against the sky like a giant white ship sailing turquoise seas. Opening-night tailgaters in tuxes and gowns, or jeans and cowboy hats, have established a long-standing summer ritual in the parking lot-requiring fine linens, polished silver, and haute cuisine. Tickets from $24. Check online for schedule.