The French are going on strike (again). What will happen to travelers?

By Meg Zimbeck
October 3, 2012
blog_101011_francetransit_pano_original.jpg
Courtesy <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/blogviajes/4388923631/" target="_blank">jdelcidr/Flickr</a>

French railway workers are gearing up for a major, open-ended strike, one that will have significant implications for anyone traveling to France in mid-October. The reason: President Nicolas Sarkozy wants to raise the retirement age from age 60 to 62. The country's largest transport union CGT has pledged to defend this retirement age (the earliest among European nations) by stopping work at 11:30 p.m. on Monday, October 11 for an indefinite period of time.

What will this mean for travelers? Let's begin with the situation at the airports: the suburban train that connects both Orly and Charles de Gaulle with the city of Paris will probably not be running on October 12. This RER-B line is typically the "most affected" (not working) train route during any strike. Those willing to shell out the €40-60 for a taxi will have to wait in line with hundreds of others travelers who share the same idea. Cheaper alternatives, in the form of buses and shuttles into the city, will be over-crowded and will also require significant waiting. What's more, these airport buses and shuttles only deliver travelers to certain spots within the city, and it's uncertain whether the subway (Métro) will be available to help them reach their final destination.

Within the Paris subway system, line 14 is automatic and runs normally during a strike. The Métro's remaining fifteen lines are usually running, but with reduced frequency. The city's RATP website is updated throughout the day to report (in French) on the frequency of trains. A statement that says "lignes 5 &7: 1 train sur 3," can be interpreted as "lines 5 & 7 are running at 30% capacity." If a train normally comes every four minutes, riders can expect one to arrive every 12 minutes with sardine-like conditions inside. For a snapshot of travel conditions in September, when unions tested the waters with a shorter-term strike, visit this helpful travel blog .

Traveling to France during this time? You'll want to read this article on how to lessen the grief of a Paris grève.

Alternative transportation: it's easy to rent a bike in Paris…with the right credit card. We show you how.

Keep reading to find out how long the strike could go on for.

How long will this go on? The strike is set to begin October 12 but all signs point to a long and drawn out battle. President Sarkozy, with the support of the European Commission, has made pension reform the centerpiece of his policy agenda and is unlikely to back down from the increased retirement age. The opposing unions have described that retirement age as "non-negotiable" and are likely to continue striking until significant concessions are made.

We'll keep you posted as things heat (and jam) up, and I'll report back about my own airport odyssey since I'm flying into Paris on October 13.

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Inspiration

Rome: Book soon for film festival tickets

Unlike celebrity-studded fests in Venice and Cannes, the International Rome Film Festival, which runs from October 28 to November 5, is a laid-back affair that's accessible to both locals and English-speaking visitors. You're more likely to see Romans munching on pizza outside one of the theaters than Angelina Jolie in oversized designer sunglasses. The fifth annual festival presents a diverse lineup of films such as Last Night directed and written by Massy Tadjedin and staring Keira Knightley and Eva Mendes; Rabbit Hole, Nicole Kidman's debut as producer, starring Kidman and Aaron Eckhart; and Oranges and Sunshine by Jim Loach. There is also the opportunity to watch Anita Ekberg splash around the Trevi Fountain on the big screen&mdash;a restored version of Federico Fellini's iconic film La Dolce Vita will be screened in honor of its 50 anniversary. Auditorium Parco della Musica&mdash;designed by world-famous architect Renzo Piano&mdash; is the primary event host and has on-site restaurants and gift shops. Tickets are priced from &euro;3 ($4.15) to &euro;23 ($32) and go on sale October 12. If you show up at the box office with a ticket from one of Rome's museum, you get a 10 percent discount. Get ticket details at romacinemafest.it. PREVIOUSLY A wry film from a Roman mama's boy

Inspiration

London: Giant mirrors land in Kensington Gardens

I'm not aware of ever having attained inner peace. But on Thursday I came close to doing so while viewing the four oversize, curving sculptures that for the past week or so have been drawing visitors to London's Kensington Gardens. The city's star artist, Anish Kapoor, has made the mirroresque artworks specifically for this royal corner of Hyde Park, with its sightlines pleasantly free of any skyscrapers. Kapoor is famous in the U.S. for his so-called "millennium bean," a glinting installation near Chicago's Grant Park. He cribbed that same "reflective object outdoors" concept for dreaming up these sculptures that he's put in the city's most central park. One of them is a curved reddish disk floating on a lake and reflecting the landscape, a bit like the famous painting within a painting by Rene Magritte. Another is bent like a funhouse mirror. A third is conical, like an upside down tornado. The most popular of the sculptures looks like a satellite dish large enough to contact Saturn. The mirror brings a reflection of the sky down to earth, placing an image of the clouds upside down and next to a lake that's home to several mute swans. Stare at the sculptures for a while, and you'll be surprised at the memories or ideas that pop into your head. I found myself thinking that the sculptures looked like sinister objects from outer space. Maybe they will one day play a frightening chord, like those shiny monoliths in 2001. But this installation is about inner peace. Hard for me to find, like I said. Go and find the giant mirrors and your own center of calm before March 13, when they come down (kapoorinkensington.org.uk, free).

What's the strangest souvenir you've bought?

We bet it's not as weird as a journal made of cow manure&hellip; I'll admit: I was pretty pleased with myself last year when I brought back a bottle of borovnica (blueberry brandy) from my trip to Slovenia. The alcohol is a trademark of the country and sold in souvenir shops and corner stores alike, all over Slovenia. But what made this purchase unique is that the bottle had been artfully crafted to match the geography of the country itself. Genius! What better way to remember a country than to sample some of its signature liqueur&mdash;out of a bottle in the shape of said country? Surely, I thought, hardly anyone else in the world had such a unique souvenir! I patted myself on the back and proudly presented it to my parents as a gift last Christmas. But when I came across this online article&mdash;about a Vermont novelty shop selling journals made out of cow manure&mdash;I knew I had been beat. Cow poop journals, hands down, wins as the most unusual souvenir I've ever heard of. And never fear: They're still for sale! Yes, folks&mdash;for the bargain price of just $6&mdash;one of these cow bile mementos can be yours! It's almost enough to entice me to make a special trip to Vermont, just to purchase one! Or not&hellip; This got me thinking about what other crazy souvenirs folks have brought back from the far reaches of the world. A quick Google search gave me a glimpse into some of the possibilities. One British travel site offered suggestions for how to track down five of the strangest souvenirs from around the world, including wallets made out of the entire bodies of giant frogs, from the Philippines; a bottle of rice wine, with a dead poisonous snake coiled up in the bottom, from Vietnam; and panda poo from Sichuan, China. But if I know our Budget Travel readers as well as I think I do, I suspect you can one-up all these silly purchases, so here's your chance. Tell us about the craziest souvenir you've ever purchased. We'd love to hear about it!

You drank what?! The world's weirdest beverages

What's the most outrageous beverage you've tried? Last week, I got back from Hong Kong, a paradise for the adventurous eater. I nibbled on braised chicken toes. I sampled deer tendons. I snacked on tomato-flavored candy. I ate dishes spotted with Szechuan chiles and peppercorns so spicy that the restaurant provided a box of tissues on the table to wipe the sweat from your brow. And yet, far and away the most unappealing, bizarre, and downright disgusting thing I sampled in Asia was not a weird meat dish or some scary foreign delicacy. It was a simple drink&mdash;the seemingly innocuous-sounding salty lemon soda. When I ordered the drink at a Vietnamese noodle shop in Kowloon, I expected a slightly salty but still sweet beverage, not unlike a Gatorade or the salty caramel milkshake I've grown to love at Midtown favorite, Schnipper's Quality Kitchen. What arrived was a tall icy glass of seltzer with a preserved salted lemon in the bottom and a spoon used to mash it up. Cool, crisp, and clear, it looked like the refreshing Asian cousin of the mojito. Which is what made the first sip all the more horrifying. Salty lemon soda tastes like a glass of ocean water on the rocks or carbonated citrus sweat. The saline taste is overwhelming. Each sip, naturally, makes you even thirstier. You try to take another sip, hoping it will get better. It doesn't. You search for an ice cube that may have remained untainted by the salt. You can't find one. And the waitress stands a few feet away from the table and laughs at the gweilo&mdash;or "ghost man," a common Cantonese slang term for white foreigners&mdash;who has been so easily defeated by a simple bubbly drink. I'm sure people love the stuff, but it left me with a sour (and salty) taste in my mouth. I know I'm a wuss. In the grand scheme of bizarre beverages, salty lemon soda is nothing. In Kenya and Tanzania, members of the Maasai tribe often mix cow blood with their milk. In Latin America, a maize-based beer known as chicha is made by chewing up and spitting out purple corn kernels, before allowing the saliva mixture to sit and ferment. Perhaps most horrifying of all is Korean and Chinese baby mice wine. Let that sink in for a minute. Baby mice are drowned in rice wine before they even open their eyes and guzzled for their supposed health benefits. (If you're not squeamish, type "baby mice wine" into your Google Image search. If you're a lover of small animals, refrain.) Can you top that? While traveling, have you ever tried a gross, weird, or otherwise interesting drink you can't find back home? On a related note, check out the world's weirdest restaurants!