Pack a comfortable pair of shoes. Korea's capital is a shopper's paradise, but without any street signs, even the locals get lost sometimes.
1)$5 Ghost House VCD The edgiest Asian cinema is being made in Korea. One of last year's big box-office hits was this comedy/horror film about a proud new homeowner who finds his house is haunted. Bandi & Luni's Bookstore, COEX Mall, Samseongdong, Gangnam-gu, 011-82/2-6002-6002.
2)$33 Vase Celadon pottery flourished 800 years ago, partly because Buddhist monks needed ritual objects. "Female" vases swell near the base, "male" ones at the shoulder. Go Dang Doo Yeon Cho, 168 Insadong, Jongno-gu, 011- 82/2-732-0294.
3)$19 Soccer scarf Korea finished fourth in the 2002 World Cup at home and everyone is now gearing up for 2006 in Germany.The team's official fan club, the Red Devils, shows support by wearing scarves emblazoned with FOREVER COREA. Haggle for your own at Namdaemun Market.
4)$20 T-Shirt Seoul's fashionistas stay on top of fads with visits to Dongdaemun Market, a warren of shops located around the city's ancient East Gate. Monaca, Dongdaemun Market, 011-82/2-3398-7117.
5)$2 Hanji This lovely paper is traditionally handmade from fibers of the paper mulberry tree. Large sheets make perfect gift wrap. Back Jae Paper Shop, Insadong 190-1, Jongnogu, 011-82/ 2-734- 3966.
6)$9 Thimble and bag Embroidered emblems--usually silk thread on silk cloth--used to signal a soldier's rank or the status of a scholar. Kukjae Embroidery sells boxes, tassels, bags, and more. Insadong 198, Jongno-gu, 011-82/2-732-0830.
7)$11 Cosmetics Chic Korean women rarely leave home without the right shade of lip gloss. The plant-based products at The Face Shop, a local chain, provide stiff competition to the similarly named Body Shop. Myeongdong, 011- 82/2-594-7131.